I understand. A moisture vapor barrier has to be installed if prone to water migration. Chipping is usually due to inadequate bonding combined with environmental factors. For long term results, you have to strip all paint/coatings, profile the substrate by etching, shotblasting, diamond grinding, etc. to optimize bonding to the substrate. Then apply a primer coat to enhance moisture vapor protection and increasing bonding with the topcoats. Then apply the topcoats. See our Eco-Tuff Coatings.
Be sure to thoroughly remove all carpet glue, paint, etc. that are bond breakers. You also don't want the glue swirls showing through the semi-transparent stain. SoyCrete is not intended to be a typical opaque paint type stain that hides. We avoid creating a film that will eventually peel and we allow the natural variations of the concrete to give the color a natural stone like appearance. You may call us for more technical support for advice on our paint/adhesive removers. Thank you.
You simply tape the pattern you want over the base color once that is completely dry. Stain with an accent color within the taped pattern, then remove the tape. You can create enhanced mottling or veigning lines with airbrushes, or hand applied using brushes, pads, or sponges depending on the design. This type of enhancement is usually done after the base color has been installed.
Absorption level or porosity and cleanliness determines this step. Etching does necessarily change the texture, it opens pores for optimum absorption and deep cleans to help bring back the original color of the concrete to make colors more vibrant. Check porosity by spraying a little water or take a damp sponge and wipe an area to simulate applying the stain. If the water immediately absorbs and darkens the concrete without beading or puddling, you are ready to proceed with staining.
That's a tough question without knowing your visual expectations. In general, the acid used took layers of concrete off the surface. If you are staining your concrete, you can use them to your advantage for enhanced mottling. The stain will be darker in those deeply etched areas. Otherwise, the only way to return the concrete to a uniform texture is to diamond polish the surface to an acceptable level or apply our concrete microtopping to resurface the area.
@jachnjn99 We used an Oreck Orbital buffer with a white buffing pad. These are available at all Oreck stores and other online retailers, or you may be able to find one used on Ebay. These are lightweight and very easy to use. If you are experienced with a standard floor buffer, any low speed 175rpm buffer will work just fine when using this method.
Thank you jane29228. While we wish it were as easy as waving a wand, are intent is to compare time versus conventional acid staining processes which requires hours of waiting for reaction to occur, followed by a rinse or multiple rinse cycles to ensure complete removal of all residue before proceeding to the next steps. Saving a minimum of 50% installation time is our reference to being fast. It is also faster than installing tile and grout at a lower cost and lower maintenance.
After I fertilized the lawns, I had rust spots from the sprinklers on my sidewalks and driveway. My neighbor said to use The Works toilet cleaner to remove them. It removed them, somewhat, but left big blotches all over my cement, because it has hydrochloric acid in it. What do you recommend I do now to get it to look better?
my slab was just poured 2 days ago, so no paint or solvents or contamination of any kind, the crew used a blade machine to smooth it, must I clean it again other than hose it off and squeegee?
I am concerned that concrete microtopping might crack, given the harsh winters we have. I painted a sidewalk last fall, and it is now chipping all over in the spring. (Another mess I have to clean up!)
Would i do the same with Exterior ? Would love to do my carport. What Products do you recommend and should i also use a sealer ( i don't want everything to come off / hot tires ) ? thank you
Bavarian Chick Yes, the same process for interior or exterior. The recommended products are: EcoFast Paint Stripper if needing to remove paint, adhesives, etc. EcoEtch Pro to provide and deep clean concrete for achieving optimum profile to accept stains and sealers. SoyCrete Concrete Stain, and in your case, AcriSoy Sealer as the final application. The stain and sealer on both penetrating and not intended to leave a film. When applied correctly it will never peel or change the surface coefficient of friction. Call us at 877.366.7547 if you require technical assistance or further advice. Thank you for your inquiry.
The base color is Desert Mountain which was applied over the entire surface area. The darker tones are created by applying a second coat of the same color in those areas once the first coat is dry. The darker lines in the taped designs used Black Granite. Thank you for watching!
We used a standard floor buffer with a black stripping pad for cleaning and etching. When etching you can attach a 60-grit sanding disk. Using a white pad works great for buffing in the stain rather than using a manual foam applicator. For non experienced installers, an Oreck Orbital buffer is lightweight and very easy to use.
Yes. Any garden type sprayer will work since our products do not contain acid. We do recommend a high quality sprayer for the best uniform spray and no dripping. You will spray in small areas without puddling, then work the stain in the concrete with a wood block stain pad, microfiber mop, or floor buffer with a white buffing pad.
For best results we always recommend etching. New concrete may have laitance (weak layer of concrete) or troweled too a hard, limiting optimum porosity.Optimum porosity allows more stain to absorb and will give more coloring or layering options as well. Thank you for your interest!
We pulled up the carpet in my basement and got a nice concrete floor. We are looking to stain it ourselves with a design in the middle. There's little to no ventilation in this area. Will your product be safe for use for this area? Do we need to buff it first? and Would acri-soy be a good sealer for this? Great looking finish on your video!
I understand. A moisture vapor barrier has to be installed if prone to water migration. Chipping is usually due to inadequate bonding combined with environmental factors. For long term results, you have to strip all paint/coatings, profile the substrate by etching, shotblasting, diamond grinding, etc. to optimize bonding to the substrate. Then apply a primer coat to enhance moisture vapor protection and increasing bonding with the topcoats. Then apply the topcoats. See our Eco-Tuff Coatings.
Be sure to thoroughly remove all carpet glue, paint, etc. that are bond breakers. You also don't want the glue swirls showing through the semi-transparent stain. SoyCrete is not intended to be a typical opaque paint type stain that hides. We avoid creating a film that will eventually peel and we allow the natural variations of the concrete to give the color a natural stone like appearance. You may call us for more technical support for advice on our paint/adhesive removers. Thank you.
You simply tape the pattern you want over the base color once that is completely dry. Stain with an accent color within the taped pattern, then remove the tape. You can create enhanced mottling or veigning lines with airbrushes, or hand applied using brushes, pads, or sponges depending on the design. This type of enhancement is usually done after the base color has been installed.
Really like the way you apply your stain (with no puddling). Doing it this way is sure to keep any messes from happening! Looks awesome!
Absorption level or porosity and cleanliness determines this step. Etching does necessarily change the texture, it opens pores for optimum absorption and deep cleans to help bring back the original color of the concrete to make colors more vibrant. Check porosity by spraying a little water or take a damp sponge and wipe an area to simulate applying the stain. If the water immediately absorbs and darkens the concrete without beading or puddling, you are ready to proceed with staining.
That's a tough question without knowing your visual expectations. In general, the acid used took layers of concrete off the surface. If you are staining your concrete, you can use them to your advantage for enhanced mottling. The stain will be darker in those deeply etched areas. Otherwise, the only way to return the concrete to a uniform texture is to diamond polish the surface to an acceptable level or apply our concrete microtopping to resurface the area.
@jachnjn99 We used an Oreck Orbital buffer with a white buffing pad. These are available at all Oreck stores and other online retailers, or you may be able to find one used on Ebay. These are lightweight and very easy to use. If you are experienced with a standard floor buffer, any low speed 175rpm buffer will work just fine when using this method.
We are so glad it was helpful. Thank you for sharing your comments. Call us if you require any technical support.
Thank you jane29228. While we wish it were as easy as waving a wand, are intent is to compare time versus conventional acid staining processes which requires hours of waiting for reaction to occur, followed by a rinse or multiple rinse cycles to ensure complete removal of all residue before proceeding to the next steps. Saving a minimum of 50% installation time is our reference to being fast. It is also faster than installing tile and grout at a lower cost and lower maintenance.
How did you get the dark lines where your tape for the design was?
I want to rip the carpet in my bedroom and living room and stain my concrete floor underneath. What do you recommend.Thanks. Nice video information.
After I fertilized the lawns, I had rust spots from the sprinklers on my sidewalks and driveway. My neighbor said to use The Works toilet cleaner to remove them. It removed them, somewhat, but left big blotches all over my cement, because it has hydrochloric acid in it. What do you recommend I do now to get it to look better?
I am thinking about staining my concrete patio do I still need to etch the surface if it is already rough?
my slab was just poured 2 days ago, so no paint or solvents or contamination of any kind, the crew used a blade machine to smooth it, must I clean it again other than hose it off and squeegee?
Could you please add a link \ let me know what is the type of the floor machine you have used in the video?
I can see it vibrates and rotates.
Thanks.
I am concerned that concrete microtopping might crack, given the harsh winters we have. I painted a sidewalk last fall, and it is now chipping all over in the spring. (Another mess I have to clean up!)
Would i do the same with Exterior ? Would love to do my carport. What Products do you recommend and should i also use a sealer ( i don't want everything to come off / hot tires ) ? thank you
Bavarian Chick Yes, the same process for interior or exterior. The recommended products are: EcoFast Paint Stripper if needing to remove paint, adhesives, etc. EcoEtch Pro to provide and deep clean concrete for achieving optimum profile to accept stains and sealers. SoyCrete Concrete Stain, and in your case, AcriSoy Sealer as the final application. The stain and sealer on both penetrating and not intended to leave a film. When applied correctly it will never peel or change the surface coefficient of friction. Call us at 877.366.7547 if you require technical assistance or further advice. Thank you for your inquiry.
What color stain was used in this video?
The base color is Desert Mountain which was applied over the entire surface area. The darker tones are created by applying a second coat of the same color in those areas once the first coat is dry. The darker lines in the taped designs used Black Granite. Thank you for watching!
nice explanation.
What is the name of the machine that you are using to do the circular motions and cleaning with?
We used a standard floor buffer with a black stripping pad for cleaning and etching. When etching you can attach a 60-grit sanding disk. Using a white pad works great for buffing in the stain rather than using a manual foam applicator. For non experienced installers, an Oreck Orbital buffer is lightweight and very easy to use.
Can you use any sprayer, with acid stain. Some say no acid, but many folks use them anyway? Any advise?
Yes. Any garden type sprayer will work since our products do not contain acid. We do recommend a high quality sprayer for the best uniform spray and no dripping. You will spray in small areas without puddling, then work the stain in the concrete with a wood block stain pad, microfiber mop, or floor buffer with a white buffing pad.
If the concrete is brand new do you still need to perform the etching?
For best results we always recommend etching. New concrete may have laitance (weak layer of concrete) or troweled too a hard, limiting optimum porosity.Optimum porosity allows more stain to absorb and will give more coloring or layering options as well. Thank you for your interest!
Great info! Thank you!
We pulled up the carpet in my basement and got a nice concrete floor. We are looking to stain it ourselves with a design in the middle. There's little to no ventilation in this area. Will your product be safe for use for this area? Do we need to buff it first? and Would acri-soy be a good sealer for this? Great looking finish on your video!
and where to get this wax ?
hello do you remove the tape?
yes.
what is the wax you used ?
We used our EcoFlorZ Zinc-Free Floor Finish.