Thanks for taking the time to walk through your settings before you head off for the next adventure. Safe travels and look forward to your reviews and images.
Thanks for a great review - I'm still on the MK I version - still happy. Both when I got my new camera and when I travel (Denmark to Thailand) I leave it to the phone to set the correct time - set the camera to the changed location, connect to the phone with WiFi, and then the time is synchronized. Via Bluetooth you get the correct GPS position on your photos.
Stay with the OM-1 as it is a great body! Upgrading now is like upgrading phones, you don't need every single one! ;) You want to hear something funny, I hate fiddle shitting around with the Wi-Fi on the camera and only use bluetooth for the OM-1 remote. As much as I love technology, I hate doing that! Go figure right?!!
Since I’ve been participating in your OM Systems Mentorship program, it’s so fun to watch this video and actually know what you’re doing - most of those things are normally “Greek” to me, but what a great feeling learning/knowing what’s what! Great video- thanks, and see you in Cuba!
Really appreciated these setting tips, I now understand that some of them are very useful pre processing. I would love to see a video of custom settings for BIFs, wildlife and Milkyway. Thank you Lee!!
From what I understand, noise reduction setting does slightly different than what you do in post it can be hard to remove that type of noise. It does dark frame subtraction. It's the type of noise that comes up when your sensor gets warm. Usually only comes up on really long exposures like astro. Auto setting will only do it when it detects sensor is warm enough for it to be a problem. It takes a second shot after your shot with the shutter closed and subtracts that warm sensor noise from the photo. Works in raw too unlike noise filter setting. And regarding Adobe RGB, unless you are sure your monitor you are using to edit can display most of the Adobe RGB gamut and your understand the impact on your workflow (such as proofing),you should stick to sRGB from start to finish. It's just going to mess up your colour grading workflow unless you really know what you're doing. Working in Adobe RGB adds a lot of complexity and opportunities to mess up without realising it. I thought adobe RGB has more colour range and that sounds like what you want right but i learnt setting that in camera isn't going to change how much data the camera captures in the raw, and you will need to convert to sRGB when posting online which will slightly adjust your final edit if done in Adobe (which is what proofing is about checking against). So even though my monitor displays most of Adobe RGB gamut, because I don't do lots of very high quality print work and most of my photos just go online, I stick to sRGB. There's also a new way to navigate the menus on the mark ii, the touch screen now allows you to swipe between main and sub pages!
Actually doing night sky image stacking (including dark frames) works incredible and I am not wasting time in the field. I know how it all works, but I have yet to find a need to do in camera! When I have tested images taken with Adobe RGB and sRGB, the first are always bigger files. I prefer collecting more data, regardless. I absolutely hate everything touchscreen is! ;) It is terrible for fast action wildlife photography and develops bad habits. If you only shoot landscape, touchscreen might be fine. One of the first things I do is turn that OFF! ;) Glad it works for you! But I dare anyone to capture wildlife images looking at the back of the camera to touch or make adjustments! I stick to doing in the viewfinder so I can watch the action!
@@leehoyphotography I've looked into this extensively. Setting sRGB or Adobe RGB does not make the camera captures any more or less detail in the raw image. Raw images do not have a color space. It just flags the image for your editing program to tell it what color space to edit in.. Anyone doing this setting needs to ask themself: Does your monitor display most of Adobe RGB? Do you have Adobe RGB color profile enabled in windows while you edit? Do you ensure Adobe RGB is used in every app in your workflow? Are you proofing your shots in sRGB before you export? If you answer no to any of these, shooting with the Adobe rgb setting in camera is messing up your colours if you put your pictures on the web. I believe the file size difference you saw was with the jpgs which are encoded into Adobe rgb in camera and contain more data than the sRGB jpgs (but still less than any raw)
This was a timely video. I am currently renting an OM-1 to see if it will work for me. This will speed up the process of setting the camera up. THANKS!
Thanks, Lee for this unboxing/setup video. I have two OM-1 Mk I's which are really working for me, but I am going to be watching your future videos to see how you use the new features of the Mk. II, and to see if or how the AF improvements impact your shooting.
Greg, for now stay with the OM-1's, I am still in the middle of testing them out! I will be doing a first impression video from using in the Amazon soon!
It is just a tiny little flash that is designed for triggering a light sensitive cable that communicates with underwater flashes. You wouldn't use it for anything else as it is too small.
Wow, Lee this was great. Now for a question. I have owned an OM1 for more than a year now and just received my OM1 II. When I turn on my OM1 the LCD screen and then my EVF shows in bright green the shape of my chosen focus point for that shooting mode. I can change this and move the point around and it works great. What menu items allowed me to turn on and off the illuminated green focus points. I'm sure I did all that a year ago but have forgotten and can not find any guide to accomplish this. The OM1 II does NOT have the illuminated focus point on startup nor can I find a way to make it happen. Seeing that focus point shows to me what shooting mode is in force without using the SCP right away and to be able to see it and move it around on the EVF screen allows me to fix the point where I want it. Any advice and or help to get my both cameras to be the same in this respect would be appreciated. Thank you again for such great videos. Joe McGrath
Great set up video!!! I'm having trouble with the Live View screen. It isn't showing the image I would be taking in Live View. The screen is going black. Can you please point me in the right direction? Thanks!
Thanks for this video! My Mark 2 came today and I didn't have a clue where to begin. This will be my 1st digital camera, although I'm somewhat familiar with the basics of photography, I have a huge learning curve with the computer/menu side of digital cameras (I learned on 35mm film SLR Pentax).
Stick with it, you will be frustrated at first because the camera does so much. Set aside some time to learn specific aspects and then take a break! It is a marathon, not a sprint!
Lee, as someone else pointed out, 'Noise Reduction' setting on Olympus/OM cameras applies a 'dark frame' noise elimination process to rid the image of heat generated noise on long exposures only -- I believe only on exposures of 1 second or longer. Turning that feature off will simply cause way more noise than necessary on long exposures like night sky images, etc.. You may want to research this issue and rethink turning that feature off.
I am curious, do you all really think an OM System Ambassador doesn't know what the menu items do and what noise reduction is? ;) I had several comments, some were wrong. And it won't cause more noise than necessary if you stack night sky images including dark frames (works WAY better than in camera noise reduction) and/or use DxO Pure Raw 3. I hate wasting time using in camera software when there are better techniques. I am pretty up on noise, I teach it all the time!
hi Lee thank you for this informative video about the menu structure of the OM-1. It is said that this is very complicated, but that is not the case. The menu structure is just as simple as that of a Canon R3 full frame. thank you very much again. and have a great time on your photo trip. I look forward to your next video❤
@@leehoyphotography hi lee thank you for your answer and response. the reason for my additional story under your photo was to provide a more complete picture, and not to criticize you or Om-systems 👍❤️
@@theflyingdutchman7127 - Dude, you have been super complimentary from day one! You post exactly what you are thinking and want to say! I love that! No apologies need sir!
@@leehoyphotography hi Lee I recently understood that the 150-400 has a constant aperture of 4.5 over the entire range, and F5.6 with the extender switched on.
I'm glad to see the way the packaging of the OM1 Mii is similar to the Mi. I really was impressed by the original's packaging. It was all very well put together and organized, as well as tucked away. I notice a lot of camera companies don't put as much thought into the packaging of their cameras. I also don't like the neck straps. I use both Peak Design and PGY Tech straps that are more versatile. They work really nicely for what I need. I think a strap is fairly subjective though. Everyone has their preference. I rarely shoot using the fold-out screen. I'm always using the EVF, and do vertical photos that way without an issue. However, the biggest lens I have is the 40-150. The 150-400 is way out of my price range. The grip is nice, but doesn't fit my current use case. Perhaps one day. I do agree that using the OEM batteries is probably safest. I always had issues trying to use third party in the past with my Panasonic. Mostly, it wouldn't work in the Panasonic charger, and it didn't last nearly as long. It was also bad about holding a charge if I didn't use it for a while. I understand this is anecdotal, and newer batteries like this might work better. I just figure if you spend this kind of money on a camera body, it's worth protecting your investment by getting OEM batteries. I do use a power bank in my camera pack to charge the camera on the go as well. It works pretty nicely to top it off if you're on the road between shoots. The OM1 charges fast, too. Far faster than past cameras I've had. Remember, lithium ion doesn't like being at 100% charge all of the time. Topping it off constantly will reduce its lifespan. Though mine has held up rather well even with my forgetting to stop charging at 95% or so, more often than not. It's easier to keep track of this with a cellphone. Thanks for going over the initial set up here. It does overlap a lot with the OM1 Mi. I wish I'd known all this when I got mine. It's taken a while to figure out all the details I should've set up initially that I didn't know about.
The setting for Color space (sRGB or Adobe RGB) has nothing to do with how many colors the camera captures. It only affects the Jpeg Preview on the back of the camera when you shoot in RAW, or if you shoot in Jpeg. The menu on the OM-1 Mark II now partially supports touch. The top level items and the second level page selections can be accessed via touch.
Keith, I will be doing a video on how a RAW file shot in Adobe RGB versus sRGB is different. Test for yourself, take identical shots and import them into LR. You will see a noticeable difference in the histogram, the details in the shadows and the Adobe RGB file is a bit bigger. It can't help but be bigger since Adobe is a bigger color space.
@@leehoyphotography Lee. I'll be looking for your video. Your premise that taking two identical photos and importing them into LR would be true if you used Embedded & Sidecar as the preview method because that preview will simply be from the JPEG header in the RAW file AND you were looking at them in the Library module. Once opened in Develop, the RAW image is demosaiced and the color space chosen in LR will be assigned. I think you’ll be swimming upstream trying to convince anyone that the color space chosen in camera has any affect on RAW files. It simply does not. RAW files don’t even have a color space. It is assigned when the RAW file is demosaiced in a RAW converter like Adobe Camera RAW. The default color space for LR is ProPhoto as I’m sure you already knew. Here’s a couple of quotes from websites which say the same thing that EVERY reputable technical website says on the topic: 11) Color Space (AdobeRGB versus sRGB) This is exactly the same as your Picture Control settings. Contrary to what some notable photographers have said, it doesn’t matter whether you use AdobeRGB or sRGB in camera for RAW photos, unless you are specifically interested in the effects on your histogram (which are relatively small). Either way, your color space has absolutely no effect on the RAW data itself. (RAW files capture more colors than what fits within sRGB or AdobeRGB, anyway). Here’s another quote: If you are a photographer shooting in RAW, you don’t need to worry about in-camera color space. That’s because RAW files are uncompressed files with no embedded color space. For RAW shooters, color space only comes into play during the editing process. However, if you shoot JPEG files, color space is important to consider when shooting. Most cameras offer two color space options: sRGB or Adobe RGB. Adobe RGB is the wider color space, and as it is typically best to go with the larger color space for more flexibility down the road, we recommend shooting on Adobe RGB. Most cameras default to sRGB, so this is a setting that you’ll need to change if you want the more expansive color space. Or this one: (every technical article is consistent) Digital cameras often have a setting that allows you to select either sRGB or Adobe RGB. What, exactly does this do? The answer is that, like the white balance and several other camera settings, it affects only the JPEG files that the camera produces. If you shoot RAW the sRGB or Adobe RGB setting has no impact whatsoever on the raw image data stored in the RAW file. Of course this is exactly the same concept as White Balance. For a RAW file it makes no difference what the in camera White Balance is set to for the final product since it can be assigned during editing. It certainly makes a difference for the JPEG preview that you see on the back of the camera.
@@NatPhoto56 That may all be well and good, but the video will 100% show that an image captured in Adobe RGB and one in sRGB keeping EVERYTHING else the same is bigger, has more definition and the histogram is different. And this difference holds true in the library module AND the develop module. So, in real world practice, it makes a difference. And this is NOT being affected by your color profile, I shoot in camera muted 100% of the time. This is NOT something you can adjust for in LR. I can assure you, it is having an impact. You can WATCH the difference as you move from one image to another. It is actually very easy to see. I rarely take the time to look at images on the back of my camera, chimping is a horrible habit for wildlife photographers. For landscape, night sky, macro I do on occasion. Believe me, I have read and seen much of what you have said before, but in practical use, there is a difference. Forget what the digital camera websites say, just do a comparison! The amount of added detail especially in the areas of shadows/blacks is noticeable and for MFT that is even the better. And it isn't really like WB, I can change white balance anytime in LR. The difference you will see in these two images (captured 11 seconds apart) is quite noticeable. Again, a bigger file of the EXACT same image tells you there is more data!
@@leehoyphotography OK, Lee. I’ll watch your video. Why don’t you send an e-mail to all of your Olympus Ambassador friends and ask them these questions: 1). Do RAW files have a color profile? 2) Does the in camera Color Space have anything to do with the data captured in a RAW file? I can already tell you the answers you’ll get back, but go ahead and send it out just to validate from others who I assume you respect. I’m not trying to argue philosophy here, my stance is based on facts that are not disputable. It is the way digital cameras work. You also said in this reply that “I shoot in camera muted 100% of the time. This is NOT something you can adjust for in LR”. Sorry Lee, but that statement is false. Just open your image in Develop and open the Profile Browser and you can set the Profile to Camera Natural, Camera Vivid, Adobe Color, Monochrome, or a whole host of other profiles. Just to be very clear, I’m not talking about Presets, I’m talking about Profiles. Your statement is simply not correct. By the way, I too shoot in Camera Muted for the same reason you do, to allow the jpeg preview to more closely resemble the actual data contained in the RAW file, but it too can be changed in Post Processing. The fact that you think you can't change the profile you are using in camera in LR Develop tells me that all of your images in LR are using Adobe Color as the profile since that is the default. Years ago, the default profile was Adobe Standard. After you send your e-mail out to other Olympus Ambassadors, please be kind enough to post their exact replies in this thread.
Thanks for the video. Enjoy your trip. Out of curiosity do you do anything pretreatment of clothing for heading into the tropics? As a mosquito magnet I always treat my clothes with Permethrin, even when I’m walking around my local bird spots.
Thanks Bernie! I hope to record some videos that will be available on my website for purchase and download that goes over my settings for various genres of photography.
Hey Lee - great video as always! Looking forward to unboxing my own Mark II in a couple days! You mention a grip - this one ok? Olympus HLD-9 Power Battery Grip for OM-D E-M1 Mark II/Mark III
@@leehoyphotography I have now set it up, but weather has not been great here in 🇬🇧 I followed your base settings initially, but will keep you posted on how it all goes.
Hi Lee great you are out with a new video. I have the OM-1 mark ii with the 150-400 now for a few days. I have a problem with downloading my RAW images on my iPad and I cannot do the RAW’s via Bluetooth/Wifi in the O.I Share app. I use a Sony 300 w/r class 2 SD card. When I put the card in my Sony rx10 mark iv camera the RAW images I can see on the iPad. When I import the OM-1 files I do see a little thumbnail but I cannot see or open the photo in my library. I use a dongle and normally that works fine. I have heard that it takes time before you can open RAW files when the camera is just released but I do not think that’s the case.. maybe you can help me out? Have a nice day/evening cheers Ron.👍😀
Ron, thanks for watching! So, LR and other software isn’t yet updated for the RAW files for the new camera. Only OM Workspace! You should be able to transfer files, but might not be able to view yet. See if you can see in workspace! Heading into Amazon now and will check back when i return!
Hey Lee, I have a “dumb” question, but really needing some guidance. I am racking my brain here. I don’t shoot video and I feel I just bought the z6iii wasting my money and should have kept my and maybe have kept my OM-1 with the 40-150, 12-40. I now have the NIKKOR 180-600, 24-120, and the 105. I just felt I was missing something with my Micro4/3. All of my pictures seemed soft when comparing to FF pictures. I guess I pixel peeped too much (which I guess was a habit I picked up from watching too many UA-cam videos. But really, shouldn’t the m4/3’s pictures be just as sharp and crisp as FF? I do shoot wildlife, I shoot landscape, and I do shoot macro. so I’m your honest opinion, should I trade my z6iii back to the OM-1? Or just keep the Z6iii and get used to it? I’m no professional, but I do love to print and I do love to post my pictures. Help me make up my mind
My images are just as sharp and crisp. And let me be clear, the one system I wouldn't use is Nikon for a variety of reasons. You just have to learn how to shoot properly with the 4/3's and post process them correctly. I assure you I have many HIGH ISO images you would love to have and print! Most people aren't patient enough to really learn how to use the 4/3's gear. That is my honest opinion! ;)
@@leehoyphotography Thanks Lee. I guess maybe my issues is I watch too many camera videos. I loved my OM-1, but I guess I felt I was missing something and I couldn’t put my finger on it. Maybe it was the creamy bokeh, or not being able to crop in, I really don’t know. Then I started doing research and I guess I got off the beaten path, thus “messing” with my head and getting me flustered. Thanks for taking the time to write me back. I do enjoy seeing your stuff, just amazing.
Hej Lee, It looks great! I have a question about the OM system vs OM-D. I have the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark iii, and as I am still learning photography I see now reason for spending money on upgrading, but I am curious about what the major differences are. Could you (or somebody) explain this to me? :) Also, how much do you use 1.4X and 2X converters? and what considerations are important when using them?
What genres of nature photography do you enjoy? That will help me answer! I’m flying to the Galápagos Islands this morning and will lose service for a while but will answer when I’m back!
Hej Lee, Sure! I like so many things still, so versatility might be important. I live in Denmark where it is mostly landscape or bird photography, and if I want more, then I have to travel and hike to do more. So I would like that I can carry the gear during hiking trips while capture animals I might see on the way. I would like to learn more about the bush craft you talk about, so I am watching those videos now :)
@@mathiasandersson1308 well, you should definitely upgrade to at least the OM-1 or the OM-1 Mark II. They are well ahead of the mark III you have especially for birds, wildlife, and landscape. I’ll list reasons when I get back.
@@leehoyphotography Hey Lee, Thank you :) I think right now the budget is not there for a new camera, but maybe next year I will have the budget for one of those two. As a relative new photographer, would a used OM-1 be enough rather than the Mark II? I look forward to you list of reasons as it give much good subject for thought.
@@mathiasandersson1308 The BIG difference in technology is between the E-M1x and the OM-1. It was light years better. For bird and landscape photography, you have many more features such as live graduated neutral density filter and for birds the AI subject detection. I could get great shots with the E-M1 Mark III, but not a fraction of what I can capture with the OM-1 or OM-1 Mark II. It is an easy decision then for upgrading for you on the body. Obvsioulsly there is budget, but you won't regret the upgrade at all. The 1.4 and 2.0 are both in my bag, I use the 1.4x a lot with the 300mm (back when I shot it more before the 150-400) and the 2.0 with the 40-150, 90mm macro, and 300mm! Hope that helps.
Question, once I add the GL-10 grip I bought to the OM-1 mark ii I am afraid it won’t fit in the bag I use with my 150-400 attached. Any recommendation?
Well, I never travel with a lens attached to a body whether driving or flying. It is too easy to put stress on the connection between body and lens. I use a ThinkTank Airport Roller Derby for a roller bag, and the F-Stop backpacks when using a backpacks.
Hi Lee Hoy, Can you pls inform me if the OM-1 Mark ii has Focus Bracketing option where in i can choose upto 999 images? I would primarily use this camera for Macro which is why i needed to confirm before i place an order. Thanks
Thanks a bunch! I went through my OM-1 menus and changed several. Can’t wait for my MkII!
Thanks for watching and glad I can help!
Thanks for taking the time to walk through your settings before you head off for the next adventure. Safe travels and look forward to your reviews and images.
My pleasure and stay tuned for some more honest videos!
Thanks very much. I’d got most of my settings right but some I needed to change.
Glad the video helped! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you Lee. My new camera arrived today so it was a very timely video!
Hope you are enjoying it!
@@leehoyphotography Very much so.
Thanks for a great review - I'm still on the MK I version - still happy.
Both when I got my new camera and when I travel (Denmark to Thailand) I leave it to the phone to set the correct time - set the camera to the changed location, connect to the phone with WiFi, and then the time is synchronized. Via Bluetooth you get the correct GPS position on your photos.
Stay with the OM-1 as it is a great body! Upgrading now is like upgrading phones, you don't need every single one! ;) You want to hear something funny, I hate fiddle shitting around with the Wi-Fi on the camera and only use bluetooth for the OM-1 remote. As much as I love technology, I hate doing that! Go figure right?!!
Since I’ve been participating in your OM Systems Mentorship program, it’s so fun to watch this video and actually know what you’re doing - most of those things are normally “Greek” to me, but what a great feeling learning/knowing what’s what! Great video- thanks, and see you in Cuba!
Thanks Lynda!
Appreciate these tips Lee, thank you for making this. Enjoy your trip 👍
thanks John! I appreciate the kind words!
Thank you, Lee. Have a great time with your new camera, I know that it will serve you well.
Thank you Peter!
Really appreciated these setting tips, I now understand that some of them are very useful pre processing. I would love to see a video of custom settings for BIFs, wildlife and Milkyway. Thank you Lee!!
I am contemplating a subscription based video mentorship program where only subscribers would get very detailed walk throughs! Stay tuned!
From what I understand, noise reduction setting does slightly different than what you do in post it can be hard to remove that type of noise. It does dark frame subtraction. It's the type of noise that comes up when your sensor gets warm. Usually only comes up on really long exposures like astro. Auto setting will only do it when it detects sensor is warm enough for it to be a problem. It takes a second shot after your shot with the shutter closed and subtracts that warm sensor noise from the photo. Works in raw too unlike noise filter setting.
And regarding Adobe RGB, unless you are sure your monitor you are using to edit can display most of the Adobe RGB gamut and your understand the impact on your workflow (such as proofing),you should stick to sRGB from start to finish. It's just going to mess up your colour grading workflow unless you really know what you're doing. Working in Adobe RGB adds a lot of complexity and opportunities to mess up without realising it. I thought adobe RGB has more colour range and that sounds like what you want right but i learnt setting that in camera isn't going to change how much data the camera captures in the raw, and you will need to convert to sRGB when posting online which will slightly adjust your final edit if done in Adobe (which is what proofing is about checking against). So even though my monitor displays most of Adobe RGB gamut, because I don't do lots of very high quality print work and most of my photos just go online, I stick to sRGB.
There's also a new way to navigate the menus on the mark ii, the touch screen now allows you to swipe between main and sub pages!
Actually doing night sky image stacking (including dark frames) works incredible and I am not wasting time in the field. I know how it all works, but I have yet to find a need to do in camera! When I have tested images taken with Adobe RGB and sRGB, the first are always bigger files. I prefer collecting more data, regardless. I absolutely hate everything touchscreen is! ;) It is terrible for fast action wildlife photography and develops bad habits. If you only shoot landscape, touchscreen might be fine. One of the first things I do is turn that OFF! ;) Glad it works for you! But I dare anyone to capture wildlife images looking at the back of the camera to touch or make adjustments! I stick to doing in the viewfinder so I can watch the action!
@@leehoyphotography I've looked into this extensively. Setting sRGB or Adobe RGB does not make the camera captures any more or less detail in the raw image. Raw images do not have a color space. It just flags the image for your editing program to tell it what color space to edit in..
Anyone doing this setting needs to ask themself:
Does your monitor display most of Adobe RGB? Do you have Adobe RGB color profile enabled in windows while you edit? Do you ensure Adobe RGB is used in every app in your workflow? Are you proofing your shots in sRGB before you export? If you answer no to any of these, shooting with the Adobe rgb setting in camera is messing up your colours if you put your pictures on the web.
I believe the file size difference you saw was with the jpgs which are encoded into Adobe rgb in camera and contain more data than the sRGB jpgs (but still less than any raw)
This was a timely video. I am currently renting an OM-1 to see if it will work for me. This will speed up the process of setting the camera up. THANKS!
LOVE my OM-1's! I hope you are enjoying it!
Thank you. I been a Nikon user since 1980 and been wanting a Olympus since High School. It is hard to switch systems so your set up was a big help.
Glad that it helped! Stay tuned for more such information on OM System!
Thanks, Lee for this unboxing/setup video. I have two OM-1 Mk I's which are really working for me, but I am going to be watching your future videos to see how you use the new features of the Mk. II, and to see if or how the AF improvements impact your shooting.
Greg, for now stay with the OM-1's, I am still in the middle of testing them out! I will be doing a first impression video from using in the Amazon soon!
@@leehoyphotography Thanks. Will do.
Thanks Lee, can you please telle me the type of the flash that is delivered with your OM1-MII?
It is just a tiny little flash that is designed for triggering a light sensitive cable that communicates with underwater flashes. You wouldn't use it for anything else as it is too small.
Wow, Lee this was great. Now for a question. I have owned an OM1 for more than a year now and just received my OM1 II. When I turn on my OM1 the LCD screen and then my EVF shows in bright green the shape of my chosen focus point for that shooting mode. I can change this and move the point around and it works great. What menu items allowed me to turn on and off the illuminated green focus points. I'm sure I did all that a year ago but have forgotten and can not find any guide to accomplish this.
The OM1 II does NOT have the illuminated focus point on startup nor can I find a way to make it happen.
Seeing that focus point shows to me what shooting mode is in force without using the SCP right away and to be able to see it and move it around on the EVF screen allows me to fix the point where I want it.
Any advice and or help to get my both cameras to be the same in this respect would be appreciated.
Thank you again for such great videos.
Joe McGrath
Joe - go to the AF Menu, Page 3.AF, then AF Area Pointer and select On1 or On2 per your preference! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great set up video!!! I'm having trouble with the Live View screen. It isn't showing the image I would be taking in Live View. The screen is going black. Can you please point me in the right direction? Thanks!
Hmm, can you record a short video with phone and send to me?
Thanks for this video! My Mark 2 came today and I didn't have a clue where to begin. This will be my 1st digital camera, although I'm somewhat familiar with the basics of photography, I have a huge learning curve with the computer/menu side of digital cameras (I learned on 35mm film SLR Pentax).
Stick with it, you will be frustrated at first because the camera does so much. Set aside some time to learn specific aspects and then take a break! It is a marathon, not a sprint!
Lee, as someone else pointed out, 'Noise Reduction' setting on Olympus/OM cameras applies a 'dark frame' noise elimination process to rid the image of heat generated noise on long exposures only -- I believe only on exposures of 1 second or longer. Turning that feature off will simply cause way more noise than necessary on long exposures like night sky images, etc.. You may want to research this issue and rethink turning that feature off.
I am curious, do you all really think an OM System Ambassador doesn't know what the menu items do and what noise reduction is? ;) I had several comments, some were wrong. And it won't cause more noise than necessary if you stack night sky images including dark frames (works WAY better than in camera noise reduction) and/or use DxO Pure Raw 3. I hate wasting time using in camera software when there are better techniques. I am pretty up on noise, I teach it all the time!
@@leehoyphotography Love your reply, here, Lee. Priceless.
hi Lee
thank you for this informative video about the menu structure of the OM-1. It is said that this is very complicated, but that is not the case. The menu structure is just as simple as that of a Canon R3 full frame. thank you very much again. and have a great time on your photo trip. I look forward to your next video❤
I always say there is a huge difference in something that is complex and something that is complicated! ;)
@@leehoyphotography hi lee
thank you for your answer and response. the reason for my additional story under your photo was to provide a more complete picture, and not to criticize you or Om-systems 👍❤️
@@theflyingdutchman7127 - Dude, you have been super complimentary from day one! You post exactly what you are thinking and want to say! I love that! No apologies need sir!
@@leehoyphotography hi Lee
I recently understood that the 150-400 has a constant aperture of 4.5 over the entire range, and F5.6 with the extender switched on.
Great video. Wishing you a great trip.
Thank you David!
I'm glad to see the way the packaging of the OM1 Mii is similar to the Mi. I really was impressed by the original's packaging. It was all very well put together and organized, as well as tucked away. I notice a lot of camera companies don't put as much thought into the packaging of their cameras. I also don't like the neck straps. I use both Peak Design and PGY Tech straps that are more versatile. They work really nicely for what I need. I think a strap is fairly subjective though. Everyone has their preference. I rarely shoot using the fold-out screen. I'm always using the EVF, and do vertical photos that way without an issue. However, the biggest lens I have is the 40-150. The 150-400 is way out of my price range. The grip is nice, but doesn't fit my current use case. Perhaps one day. I do agree that using the OEM batteries is probably safest. I always had issues trying to use third party in the past with my Panasonic. Mostly, it wouldn't work in the Panasonic charger, and it didn't last nearly as long. It was also bad about holding a charge if I didn't use it for a while. I understand this is anecdotal, and newer batteries like this might work better. I just figure if you spend this kind of money on a camera body, it's worth protecting your investment by getting OEM batteries. I do use a power bank in my camera pack to charge the camera on the go as well. It works pretty nicely to top it off if you're on the road between shoots. The OM1 charges fast, too. Far faster than past cameras I've had. Remember, lithium ion doesn't like being at 100% charge all of the time. Topping it off constantly will reduce its lifespan. Though mine has held up rather well even with my forgetting to stop charging at 95% or so, more often than not. It's easier to keep track of this with a cellphone. Thanks for going over the initial set up here. It does overlap a lot with the OM1 Mi. I wish I'd known all this when I got mine. It's taken a while to figure out all the details I should've set up initially that I didn't know about.
Thanks for watching and the detailed comment! Great having you enjoying the channel!
You have a great trip Sir, enjoy your camera.
You folks with encouraging words rock! I appreciate you!
The setting for Color space (sRGB or Adobe RGB) has nothing to do with how many colors the camera captures. It only affects the Jpeg Preview on the back of the camera when you shoot in RAW, or if you shoot in Jpeg. The menu on the OM-1 Mark II now partially supports touch. The top level items and the second level page selections can be accessed via touch.
Keith, I will be doing a video on how a RAW file shot in Adobe RGB versus sRGB is different. Test for yourself, take identical shots and import them into LR. You will see a noticeable difference in the histogram, the details in the shadows and the Adobe RGB file is a bit bigger. It can't help but be bigger since Adobe is a bigger color space.
@@leehoyphotography Lee. I'll be looking for your video. Your premise that taking two identical photos and importing them into LR would be true if you used Embedded & Sidecar as the preview method because that preview will simply be from the JPEG header in the RAW file AND you were looking at them in the Library module. Once opened in Develop, the RAW image is demosaiced and the color space chosen in LR will be assigned.
I think you’ll be swimming upstream trying to convince anyone that the color space chosen in camera has any affect on RAW files. It simply does not. RAW files don’t even have a color space. It is assigned when the RAW file is demosaiced in a RAW converter like Adobe Camera RAW. The default color space for LR is ProPhoto as I’m sure you already knew.
Here’s a couple of quotes from websites which say the same thing that EVERY reputable technical website says on the topic:
11) Color Space (AdobeRGB versus sRGB)
This is exactly the same as your Picture Control settings. Contrary to what some notable photographers have said, it doesn’t matter whether you use AdobeRGB or sRGB in camera for RAW photos, unless you are specifically interested in the effects on your histogram (which are relatively small).
Either way, your color space has absolutely no effect on the RAW data itself. (RAW files capture more colors than what fits within sRGB or AdobeRGB, anyway).
Here’s another quote:
If you are a photographer shooting in RAW, you don’t need to worry about in-camera color space. That’s because RAW files are uncompressed files with no embedded color space. For RAW shooters, color space only comes into play during the editing process.
However, if you shoot JPEG files, color space is important to consider when shooting. Most cameras offer two color space options: sRGB or Adobe RGB. Adobe RGB is the wider color space, and as it is typically best to go with the larger color space for more flexibility down the road, we recommend shooting on Adobe RGB. Most cameras default to sRGB, so this is a setting that you’ll need to change if you want the more expansive color space.
Or this one: (every technical article is consistent)
Digital cameras often have a setting that allows you to select either sRGB or Adobe RGB. What, exactly does this do? The answer is that, like the white balance and several other camera settings, it affects only the JPEG files that the camera produces. If you shoot RAW the sRGB or Adobe RGB setting has no impact whatsoever on the raw image data stored in the RAW file.
Of course this is exactly the same concept as White Balance. For a RAW file it makes no difference what the in camera White Balance is set to for the final product since it can be assigned during editing. It certainly makes a difference for the JPEG preview that you see on the back of the camera.
@@NatPhoto56 That may all be well and good, but the video will 100% show that an image captured in Adobe RGB and one in sRGB keeping EVERYTHING else the same is bigger, has more definition and the histogram is different. And this difference holds true in the library module AND the develop module. So, in real world practice, it makes a difference. And this is NOT being affected by your color profile, I shoot in camera muted 100% of the time. This is NOT something you can adjust for in LR. I can assure you, it is having an impact. You can WATCH the difference as you move from one image to another. It is actually very easy to see. I rarely take the time to look at images on the back of my camera, chimping is a horrible habit for wildlife photographers. For landscape, night sky, macro I do on occasion. Believe me, I have read and seen much of what you have said before, but in practical use, there is a difference. Forget what the digital camera websites say, just do a comparison! The amount of added detail especially in the areas of shadows/blacks is noticeable and for MFT that is even the better. And it isn't really like WB, I can change white balance anytime in LR. The difference you will see in these two images (captured 11 seconds apart) is quite noticeable. Again, a bigger file of the EXACT same image tells you there is more data!
@@leehoyphotography OK, Lee. I’ll watch your video. Why don’t you send an e-mail to all of your Olympus Ambassador friends and ask them these questions: 1). Do RAW files have a color profile? 2) Does the in camera Color Space have anything to do with the data captured in a RAW file? I can already tell you the answers you’ll get back, but go ahead and send it out just to validate from others who I assume you respect. I’m not trying to argue philosophy here, my stance is based on facts that are not disputable. It is the way digital cameras work. You also said in this reply that “I shoot in camera muted 100% of the time. This is NOT something you can adjust for in LR”. Sorry Lee, but that statement is false. Just open your image in Develop and open the Profile Browser and you can set the Profile to Camera Natural, Camera Vivid, Adobe Color, Monochrome, or a whole host of other profiles. Just to be very clear, I’m not talking about Presets, I’m talking about Profiles. Your statement is simply not correct. By the way, I too shoot in Camera Muted for the same reason you do, to allow the jpeg preview to more closely resemble the actual data contained in the RAW file, but it too can be changed in Post Processing. The fact that you think you can't change the profile you are using in camera in LR Develop tells me that all of your images in LR are using Adobe Color as the profile since that is the default. Years ago, the default profile was Adobe Standard. After you send your e-mail out to other Olympus Ambassadors, please be kind enough to post their exact replies in this thread.
Thanks for the video. Enjoy your trip. Out of curiosity do you do anything pretreatment of clothing for heading into the tropics? As a mosquito magnet I always treat my clothes with Permethrin, even when I’m walking around my local bird spots.
I do Tony! I have even bought Simms (fly fishing clothing) shirts and pants that already come treated! It makes a difference!
great you have answered all my questions Adrian from the UK
Awesome Adrian, I am so glad this was helpful to you!
Again - love your videos !!!
I need to set up my mark ii … so thank u ❤
Thanks Bernie! I hope to record some videos that will be available on my website for purchase and download that goes over my settings for various genres of photography.
A professional video!Thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you very much Lee. This was very helpful
Glad it helped Chris!
Hey Lee - great video as always! Looking forward to unboxing my own Mark II in a couple days! You mention a grip - this one ok? Olympus HLD-9 Power Battery Grip for OM-D E-M1 Mark II/Mark III
No, you need the OM HLD-10 Battery Grip for the OM-1 and OM-1 Mark II! That one you mention won't fit!
Great Video! 👏
Thanks!
Great video. Thanks for the information.
Glad it was helpful!
Perfect! Safe travels!
Thank you good sir!
Got my Mk ii today. 🎉
Love it, let me know what you think!
@@leehoyphotography I have now set it up, but weather has not been great here in 🇬🇧 I followed your base settings initially, but will keep you posted on how it all goes.
Hi Lee great you are out with a new video. I have the OM-1 mark ii with the 150-400 now for a few days. I have a problem with downloading my RAW images on my iPad and I cannot do the RAW’s via Bluetooth/Wifi in the O.I Share app. I use a Sony 300 w/r class 2 SD card. When I put the card in my Sony rx10 mark iv camera the RAW images I can see on the iPad. When I import the OM-1 files I do see a little thumbnail but I cannot see or open the photo in my library. I use a dongle and normally that works fine. I have heard that it takes time before you can open RAW files when the camera is just released but I do not think that’s the case.. maybe you can help me out? Have a nice day/evening cheers Ron.👍😀
Ron, thanks for watching! So, LR and other software isn’t yet updated for the RAW files for the new camera. Only OM Workspace! You should be able to transfer files, but might not be able to view yet. See if you can see in workspace! Heading into Amazon now and will check back when i return!
@@leehoyphotography Thanks for your quick answer.. enjoy your stay in the Amazon👍👍😀
The Adobe products were just updated a couple of days ago for the Mark II!
@@leehoyphotography Thank you Lee..liked your last video and look forward to the live session with you, Emily and Rob Trek👍😀
Me too!
Hey Lee,
I have a “dumb” question, but really needing some guidance.
I am racking my brain here. I don’t shoot video and I feel I just bought the z6iii wasting my money and should have kept my and maybe have kept my OM-1 with the 40-150, 12-40.
I now have the NIKKOR 180-600, 24-120, and the 105. I just felt I was missing something with my Micro4/3. All of my pictures seemed soft when comparing to FF pictures. I guess I pixel peeped too much (which I guess was a habit I picked up from watching too many UA-cam videos. But really, shouldn’t the m4/3’s pictures be just as sharp and crisp as FF?
I do shoot wildlife, I shoot landscape, and I do shoot macro.
so I’m your honest opinion, should I trade my z6iii back to the OM-1?
Or just keep the Z6iii and get used to it?
I’m no professional, but I do love to print and I do love to post my pictures.
Help me make up my mind
My images are just as sharp and crisp. And let me be clear, the one system I wouldn't use is Nikon for a variety of reasons. You just have to learn how to shoot properly with the 4/3's and post process them correctly. I assure you I have many HIGH ISO images you would love to have and print! Most people aren't patient enough to really learn how to use the 4/3's gear. That is my honest opinion! ;)
@@leehoyphotography
Thanks Lee. I guess maybe my issues is I watch too many camera videos.
I loved my OM-1, but I guess I felt I was missing something and I couldn’t put my finger on it.
Maybe it was the creamy bokeh, or not being able to crop in, I really don’t know. Then I started doing research and I guess I got off the beaten path, thus “messing” with my head and getting me flustered.
Thanks for taking the time to write me back.
I do enjoy seeing your stuff, just amazing.
Hej Lee,
It looks great!
I have a question about the OM system vs OM-D.
I have the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark iii, and as I am still learning photography I see now reason for spending money on upgrading, but I am curious about what the major differences are. Could you (or somebody) explain this to me? :)
Also, how much do you use 1.4X and 2X converters? and what considerations are important when using them?
What genres of nature photography do you enjoy? That will help me answer! I’m flying to the Galápagos Islands this morning and will lose service for a while but will answer when I’m back!
Hej Lee,
Sure!
I like so many things still, so versatility might be important.
I live in Denmark where it is mostly landscape or bird photography, and if I want more, then I have to travel and hike to do more. So I would like that I can carry the gear during hiking trips while capture animals I might see on the way.
I would like to learn more about the bush craft you talk about, so I am watching those videos now :)
@@mathiasandersson1308 well, you should definitely upgrade to at least the OM-1 or the OM-1 Mark II. They are well ahead of the mark III you have especially for birds, wildlife, and landscape. I’ll list reasons when I get back.
@@leehoyphotography Hey Lee, Thank you :)
I think right now the budget is not there for a new camera, but maybe next year I will have the budget for one of those two.
As a relative new photographer, would a used OM-1 be enough rather than the Mark II?
I look forward to you list of reasons as it give much good subject for thought.
@@mathiasandersson1308 The BIG difference in technology is between the E-M1x and the OM-1. It was light years better. For bird and landscape photography, you have many more features such as live graduated neutral density filter and for birds the AI subject detection. I could get great shots with the E-M1 Mark III, but not a fraction of what I can capture with the OM-1 or OM-1 Mark II. It is an easy decision then for upgrading for you on the body. Obvsioulsly there is budget, but you won't regret the upgrade at all. The 1.4 and 2.0 are both in my bag, I use the 1.4x a lot with the 300mm (back when I shot it more before the 150-400) and the 2.0 with the 40-150, 90mm macro, and 300mm! Hope that helps.
Thanks!
Wow, thank you for the support, means a lot!
Does the flash come with the camera? 6:40
Yes, it does. It is mainly used to trigger underwater flashes.
To carry it, I use a Black Rapid Sport Strap with a 1" Kirk Enterprises clamp on the end. I will be doing a video on my camera straps at some point.
Interesting, and also a little annoying, that this same camera, the OM System OM1 Mkii is sold in Australia WITHOUT the flash as shown in your video 😕
Question, once I add the GL-10 grip I bought to the OM-1 mark ii I am afraid it won’t fit in the bag I use with my 150-400 attached. Any recommendation?
Well, I never travel with a lens attached to a body whether driving or flying. It is too easy to put stress on the connection between body and lens. I use a ThinkTank Airport Roller Derby for a roller bag, and the F-Stop backpacks when using a backpacks.
@@leehoyphotography excellent point! I will change how I travel in car w my lens separate now
No charger came with my OM-1 mk ii 😵
No, they don’t with OM-1 or Mark II. I charge 90% of the time in Camera. If you need a separate charger you can always purchase a separate one.
🇨🇭👋🏻☺️
Thank you! You said it all with 3 emojies!
Hi Lee Hoy, Can you pls inform me if the OM-1 Mark ii has Focus Bracketing option where in i can choose upto 999 images? I would primarily use this camera for Macro which is why i needed to confirm before i place an order.
Thanks
Yes sir, it sure does!
@@leehoyphotography Lovely ! Thanks for replying back. 🥰
Thanks!
Much appreciated Frank!