Thanks, woaa .... your good ...this more work than anticipated, plus I do not have those tools...now I am totally sure I won't be doing it myself but enjoy seeing you do it lol
Would it be faster if you took out the axleshaft? In my opinion, you unnecessarily disconnected the suspension arms because now you have to go and adjust the geometry. But general good job ;)
I made a detailed video on this job where I mentioned that due to rusty bolts of drive shaft I chose this method. I did other side by removing axle and stripped the bolts which were insanely rusted. It was a nightmare. So I chose this method. Took little more time but worked for me. It will need alignment in both methods anyway. Thanks for pointing out that.
few pieces of advice from a dumb man currently in the trenches: 1. you absolutely need a torch to pull the drive shaft from the spindle. no exceptions. pb blaster is good too but doesnt come close to heat. 2. make sure your ebrake is OFF when you go to pull the hub. 3. he removed the sway bar connection to pull the shaft out. i also suggest looking upstream the ebrake line and diconnecting it from the wire bracket before trying any pulling. will update with whatever dumb stuff i learn next.
Thanks for the valuable tips. However, this is a shorter version of the actual video. I have full 48 minute version of video where I used torch, hammering etc. I did not remove the cv axel due to the fact bolts were rusty and would strip as it happened to the other side. So I decided to undo bolts on control arms etc. Otherwise removing cv axle completely is easiest way as you mentioned along with sway bar link. Thanks for sharing your knowledge :)
@@thomashofstadler2549it gave me also a tough time. Just keep hammering enough with a flat head screw/chisel around the circlip and keep cleaning the rust around with some pick and hook with heating if you have torch. Check my detail video in the description, that might help you.
This is a great video. How long did it take you to do? I've seen Dorman sells a whole wheel assembly/knuckle. Almost looks like it might be faster? Is it hard to remove the axle?
Its heck of the job. If you have the right tools, you can do it between 2-3 hours. In my case the axle was stuck like a hell. I live in rust belt environment. But if you dont live in rusty environment then it should not be that hard to remove axle. Yes, it will be faster if get pre-assembled parts. I would personally do only wheel bearing if I have access (or borrow) to all tools.
Yes, you are right. Due to rusty bolts of cv axle, i avoided to remove that and chose to remove suspension arm instead. The car went for alightment at shop later
I have used few specialty tools. Slide hammer puller, universal hub puller, bearing race tool. I have put all the tool's link in the description section if you wanna check them out.
How did you know when to stop pressing the wheel hub into the wheel bearing? I over pressed mine and now the rotor won’t rest flush onto hub because now it’s rubbing on the backplate
You will feel when hub stop moving forward. I dont think you can over tighten cause you will feel it that its not moving forward. If you still over forced it very hard then its another story. Plate can be bent accidently during the job. try to bent the plate away from rotor and see it helps.
You have done probably something else wrong.. to the date I am at the third bearing replaced on the rear, having 250k miles done with same car.. the bearing case should rest in the hub against the lip that is there inward, at the bottom. If you grease the hub prioir pushing the bearing you would have felt it. One good idea is to put the new bearing in the freezer couple of hours so it is shrinked slightly prior pushing... If you do not push the bearing to deep you would not be able to fit the clip inside behind the bearing...
Is so much risk with the bearing not going straight or your tool not aligned precisely on top of the edge of the new bearing.. having so much play and movement in the hub being half dismantled.. you could remove the driveshaft first.. (of course HAVE THE CAR ON STANDS!) Then remove the bearing.. It takes energy on what you are trying to do... And yes as other said GENUINE FAG or SKF... DIYers, this is NOT an easy job. Mechanics themselves know this. Changing rear wheel bearing on BMW is not easy..
This is the shorter version of the job. I have full 50 minutes detail video too on my channel. The bearing settled in nice and straight but it needs attention obviously. Yes, I could have removed the drive shaft but decided not to due to the fact bolts of drive shaft were rust and crusty and been rounded off on the other side. So I did not want it this side of the car. I avoid now chinese parts and go for SKF or FAG etc. It was not easy job doing on the drive way but with right tool it can be done effectively Thanks for sharing your thoughts
Yes, bad bearing can cause abs light since bad bearing can send error signal to the system. Brake pulsating can happen too but its not so often. But its important to check properly whether its bad bearing or brake system's fault.
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos FAG or SKF 30ish € both does bearing for BMW. For suspension its Sachs. Silentbloc its Lemforder. Brake , ATE. If you need an oem part brand name for a specific part, hit me up, these are BMW parts but without the cost of a BMW parts, when you buy it you can see they grind the BMW logo. Have fun
Brother, you’re smooth with it. Thank you for sharing this helpful video. Makes the wheel bearings less daunting
Thanks for the feedback. This job is not that easy it looks but it do able if right tools are used.
Thanks, woaa .... your good ...this more work than anticipated, plus I do not have those tools...now I am totally sure I won't be doing it myself but enjoy seeing you do it lol
Lolzzz it looks harder than it is in actual. But yeah, right tools would be needed. But its doable on a drive way :D
Good stuff bro👍. Looks like a nightmare of a job
Thanks bro. I like this kind of challenging work :D
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos lol try living in Scotland with the rusty cars that is a good challenge for u bro👍🤜
@@tonyross7376 lolzzz I live in rust belt too bro :D BTW, love Scottish landscapes
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos 🤜👍
Would it be faster if you took out the axleshaft? In my opinion, you unnecessarily disconnected the suspension arms because now you have to go and adjust the geometry. But general good job ;)
I made a detailed video on this job where I mentioned that due to rusty bolts of drive shaft I chose this method. I did other side by removing axle and stripped the bolts which were insanely rusted. It was a nightmare. So I chose this method. Took little more time but worked for me. It will need alignment in both methods anyway. Thanks for pointing out that.
few pieces of advice from a dumb man currently in the trenches:
1. you absolutely need a torch to pull the drive shaft from the spindle. no exceptions. pb blaster is good too but doesnt come close to heat.
2. make sure your ebrake is OFF when you go to pull the hub.
3. he removed the sway bar connection to pull the shaft out. i also suggest looking upstream the ebrake line and diconnecting it from the wire bracket before trying any pulling.
will update with whatever dumb stuff i learn next.
Thanks for the valuable tips. However, this is a shorter version of the actual video. I have full 48 minute version of video where I used torch, hammering etc. I did not remove the cv axel due to the fact bolts were rusty and would strip as it happened to the other side. So I decided to undo bolts on control arms etc. Otherwise removing cv axle completely is easiest way as you mentioned along with sway bar link. Thanks for sharing your knowledge :)
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos you got any tips for the c-clip? mine is putting up a real fight
@@thomashofstadler2549it gave me also a tough time. Just keep hammering enough with a flat head screw/chisel around the circlip and keep cleaning the rust around with some pick and hook with heating if you have torch. Check my detail video in the description, that might help you.
Incredible job!
Thanks bro
This is a great video. How long did it take you to do? I've seen Dorman sells a whole wheel assembly/knuckle. Almost looks like it might be faster? Is it hard to remove the axle?
Its heck of the job. If you have the right tools, you can do it between 2-3 hours. In my case the axle was stuck like a hell. I live in rust belt environment. But if you dont live in rusty environment then it should not be that hard to remove axle. Yes, it will be faster if get pre-assembled parts. I would personally do only wheel bearing if I have access (or borrow) to all tools.
i have seen complete guide as well.good work
thanks buddy
I've seen other videos where you just pull the axel shaft. Much easier.
You are spot on
Thank you for your video. Which brand of swivel bar (beaker bar) do you use?
Thanks. In this video, I was using Stahlwille breaker bar. I will review this breaker bar in my future video. Stay tuned 👍
Hey, nice work, but why you didn‘t simply pull out the driveshaft?
Botls of driveshaft were rusted to extent will get stripped and it happened to other side. So decided this method :)
Thank you
You are welcome
Nice. But removing the CV axle is easier than to remove the suspension arms bolts. Plus the alignment you need to do afterwards.
Yes, you are right. Due to rusty bolts of cv axle, i avoided to remove that and chose to remove suspension arm instead. The car went for alightment at shop later
amazing work mamu
Thanks
What’s the tools called that you use and the material list?
I have used few specialty tools. Slide hammer puller, universal hub puller, bearing race tool. I have put all the tool's link in the description section if you wanna check them out.
How much should it cost at a garage to change both sides? 3:46
Depends on the shop and location. It could cost from 600 to 700 $ including parts
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos thanks,I’ve just been charged £530 including parts so it sounds about right
Gave me confidence
👍
Awesome video thanks 👍
Thanks for the feedback 🙂
What is the tool called that was used to press the bearing in?
Its called wheel bearing press. I made video on that too. Here is the link if you wanna check that out: ua-cam.com/video/OMjp6T11Vns/v-deo.html
Could i ask what is til name of the tool at the end of the gildehammer 2:22
Wheel bearing press kit if I understand right. I have put all the links below in the description section every tool I used
Where is the point to jack the rear of the car? Tks for the video.
Here is the detailed video where you can see how to jack up the car properly from rear end
Well, I bet that was an E91. At E90 you cannot jack the car up in the middle because at E90 is no middle point to lift the car up...
How did you know when to stop pressing the wheel hub into the wheel bearing? I over pressed mine and now the rotor won’t rest flush onto hub because now it’s rubbing on the backplate
You will feel when hub stop moving forward. I dont think you can over tighten cause you will feel it that its not moving forward. If you still over forced it very hard then its another story. Plate can be bent accidently during the job. try to bent the plate away from rotor and see it helps.
You have done probably something else wrong.. to the date I am at the third bearing replaced on the rear, having 250k miles done with same car.. the bearing case should rest in the hub against the lip that is there inward, at the bottom. If you grease the hub prioir pushing the bearing you would have felt it. One good idea is to put the new bearing in the freezer couple of hours so it is shrinked slightly prior pushing...
If you do not push the bearing to deep you would not be able to fit the clip inside behind the bearing...
Great job bro
Thanks
Is so much risk with the bearing not going straight or your tool not aligned precisely on top of the edge of the new bearing.. having so much play and movement in the hub being half dismantled.. you could remove the driveshaft first.. (of course HAVE THE CAR ON STANDS!) Then remove the bearing..
It takes energy on what you are trying to do... And yes as other said GENUINE FAG or SKF...
DIYers, this is NOT an easy job. Mechanics themselves know this. Changing rear wheel bearing on BMW is not easy..
This is the shorter version of the job. I have full 50 minutes detail video too on my channel. The bearing settled in nice and straight but it needs attention obviously.
Yes, I could have removed the drive shaft but decided not to due to the fact bolts of drive shaft were rust and crusty and been rounded off on the other side. So I did not want it this side of the car. I avoid now chinese parts and go for SKF or FAG etc.
It was not easy job doing on the drive way but with right tool it can be done effectively
Thanks for sharing your thoughts
Can bad wheel bearing cause abs light 4x4 light and break pulsating?
Yes, bad bearing can cause abs light since bad bearing can send error signal to the system. Brake pulsating can happen too but its not so often. But its important to check properly whether its bad bearing or brake system's fault.
nice
Thanks
Next time put it in the freezer before assembly
Yes, I do that sometime. But it was easy to put in, it was super hard to remove though!
I suggest lots of penetrating oil and let sit overnight for all fasteners, really! :(
And Heating is the best friend for the jobs like that
One BIG mistake.... RIDEX.... BIG CHEAP CRAP!! bmw OEM bearings are from FAG ,
With cheap ridex or ebay bearings... 1 years? 2... dead..
It was budget DIY. But good to know. Next time it will be FAG
@@carrepairandtoolsvideos FAG or SKF 30ish € both does bearing for BMW. For suspension its Sachs. Silentbloc its Lemforder. Brake , ATE. If you need an oem part brand name for a specific part, hit me up, these are BMW parts but without the cost of a BMW parts, when you buy it you can see they grind the BMW logo. Have fun
100%FAG nothing else.
There is to much work (and money) to put cheap bearing...
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Nad wheel bearing can cause rear left no signal?
Yes, some time it can cause but not always.