Used this for the siding on my shed and it's excellent stuff. A little more effort to cut and attach but it really holds paint and lasts beautifully. Being insect proof is very important where I live. Great material. Highly recommended.
I suspect that most of the adverse comments are from people who didn't follow the installation instructions and just put it up "like they always have." I used it to replace deteriorating plywood panel siding on a shed, and it has held up well. As for vinyl siding, I attended a seminar on reducing fire risk in the sand hills of central Kansas, where they showed a video of viny gutters and siding melting and flaming. Pretty spectacular.
10 years and counting... I used this instead of several standard/traditional mobile home skirting materials. Mine came with a paint primer coating and accepted the same house paint used on the rest of the home. It is still like new, though even fiber/concrete is no match for a weed-eater. I've had to install angled sheet metal on the corners. Problem solved. BTW, weed-eater damage was easily(?) repaired with any of several concrete patch/mortar type mixes. Plastic wrap covered "Hardy Board" scraps can be used to impress the wood grain pattern to the surface of the patches. Good luck! I hope this inspires some of you. It's good stuff.
Discovered it in 1990 as a tile setter in San Diego...the birthplace of Hardi Backerboard. Loved it but have since moved onto something easier to cut and lighter in weight.
The key is "following OEM installation instructions" which is widely ignored in a construction industry full of individuals where English is a 2nd language. Failure of the product not installed properly is well documented.
keep in mind that putting paint on hardiplanks will have a potentially combustible layer of paint that can allow flames to crawl up the wall and up the soffit vents
My house uses this and it is very good. However, it acts like a giant diaphragm with sound; a car door slammed nearby transfers the sound wave like a giant speaker. Otherwise, love it.
Same here in the U.S. but it also refers to exterior siding on a structure. How do we know the difference in conversation? When in a rail yard, It means a rail siding. When building a home? It's usually the exterior surface.
The problem is too much Portland cement makes it too brittle to install and too much fiber makes it fall apart. I think we just about replaced all the LP so now we’re replacing all the bad Hardie
Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the password. I would love any help you can offer me
@Rene Kohen i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
I’ve repainted tons of it. It’s good if installed correctly. That being said a lot of it has not been installed correctly. It’s unfortunate that the asbestos fiber cement had to go. That stuff would have saved people alot of money. Hard compressed asbestos is not really that dangerous either.
@@4n2earth22 they have shears for the hardie board that cut it without making dust. I would feel more comfortable installing that stuff with the aid of PPE and dust extraction hooked up to the saw then to run the risk of using an inferior product personally. It was mainly the loose asbestos that was most dangerous. Insulation products not the car breaks and siding
@@mfblowfish4671 The real problem with Ass-bet-us is the fanatical crazy expense of dealing with the crap. I did hazmat clean up for lead and the ass crap. Ya gotta find a real way to deal with it that does not cost cost cost cost.
@@4n2earth22 it’s a great way to sell rolls of plastic sheeting. I’ve worked on a couple abatement jobs too. It’s mostly a joke for what the expense is. I’m almost certain that the plastic industry had lobbied for the big lead paint scare that was promoted heavily 10-15 years ago. They never really did any residential enforcement in my area thou. It was pissing people off when they started getting estimates for 30-40K to repaint their downtown homes.
LP smartside is better in every aspect. Lighter, more durable, wont snap when you hold it, more hail resistant, non porous, quicker to install and longer lasting
A product I do not like. Its heavy, breaks easily, have to use a special saw blade to cut it and the dust is crazy. . Nail heads exposed and nailed to close to the edge it just splits and cracks into layers. Now I know why it splits apart. Left outside unpainted it crumbles. I used smart siding on a dog house that was never painted and 7 years later its still not rotted. I have seen the old Masonite siding last longer and it's basically cardboard. In my opinion any product will last as long or longer if properly primed, painted and maintained. The very same thing you will have to do with Hardie if you want it to last. I like the 3x5 1/2" underlayment for tile work. Its not cosmetic. I have yet to see 1 job of Hardie as siding, facia, or soffits that don't have nails protruding splits or cracks in its surface. To each their own but I would never use Hardie as a finished surfaced product on any part of the exterior of a house.
I used screws. Predrilled and countersunk all holes, then painted. No problems after 10+ years. The issue with nail heads is common to all materials, though worse with some. If done with countersunk screws, and installed properly, the maintenance free life more than makes up for the short life of the tools being used. I believe it's mostly on the installer. I mean... really... Nails + Concrete material = failure in so many ways.
I built an attic dormer with it in 2010. The Hardie plank I used was pre-owned, so I don't know how old it was before I got it. I cut it with regular circular saw blades, did not pre-drill anything, installed it with galvanized nails, painted it once and have never had a problem. I did major paint touch-up on the redwood lapboard siding all around on the body of the house last summer, and the Hardie planked dormer was the only part of the house that didn't need anything. To be fair, the dormer is 17 feet off the ground and the top couple rows of it are protected by soffit, but really no complaints so far, 13 years on.
Maybe your home is the problem. Might not be insulated properly and allowing water vapor to get behind the siding. Maybe your siding is not installed correctly. I have this product on my house and barn, and it has been there for 20 years without a problem. The barn only has one coat of paint on it (yes I'm a procrastinator) and it still looks good.
A nice covering for the wooden boxes that Americans call houses. Doesn't matter that this stuff will last fifty years the house will need replacing in 15 years!!
Lots of maintenance. Repainting the every few years. If you want the best product Everlast vinyl cladding! I. Remove a lot of Hardie. And replace it with Everlast!
My last house was painted 12 years before it was sold and it was in the south missippi sunshine. Use good paint and apply it properly. Hardie siding takes paint well.
@@magictrading8903 Speaking from experience. The cement board blows out the back side from the nail being driven through, weakening it everywhere it's nailed. Corners cut out where windows and doors are inevitably cracking the board in two. Used it orginally in '98 and at that time they said you could install without splices at the ends, just leave a 3/8" gap, paint the raw ends, and caulk the gap. Now those joints are swelled and naturally the gaps need to be recaulked. Now they don't recommend installing without splices, but if you do, they're to be installed without a gap. Sounds well engineered, doesn't it? Just my opinion and experience, and if you don't like it, I really couldn't care less.
@@kellyappel3015 every single LP cut and exposed edge needs to be painted / sealed… tell me this isn’t a huge vulnerability? It’s just common sense that wood and glue is a bad choice for exterior siding. An inorganic material will always be superior to organic when exposed to the elements
I live in a mining town in northern Canada. The weather ranges from 80 degrees F in the summer, to minus 40 degrees F in the winter. Many of the houses built 60 years ago have Hardie Board siding...and most of it is still good although it has needed painting about every 20 years or so. It's only crap if you don't know how to install it properly.
All I can say is it worked great for my fancy poultry coops. No problems after 9 years now, and no worries about rotting wood like I used to have.
Worked on the automation at that plant, was a great workplace environment, whatever we needed was instantly taken care of.
Used this for the siding on my shed and it's excellent stuff. A little more effort to cut and attach but it really holds paint and lasts beautifully. Being insect proof is very important where I live. Great material. Highly recommended.
I suspect that most of the adverse comments are from people who didn't follow the installation instructions and just put it up "like they always have." I used it to replace deteriorating plywood panel siding on a shed, and it has held up well. As for vinyl siding, I attended a seminar on reducing fire risk in the sand hills of central Kansas, where they showed a video of viny gutters and siding melting and flaming. Pretty spectacular.
Super interesting video. I love knowing how things are made.
15 years on my house and still looks great. Hail, extreme temps, not a problem.
10 years and counting... I used this instead of several standard/traditional mobile home skirting materials. Mine came with a paint primer coating and accepted the same house paint used on the rest of the home. It is still like new, though even fiber/concrete is no match for a weed-eater. I've had to install angled sheet metal on the corners. Problem solved. BTW, weed-eater damage was easily(?) repaired with any of several concrete patch/mortar type mixes. Plastic wrap covered "Hardy Board" scraps can be used to impress the wood grain pattern to the surface of the patches. Good luck! I hope this inspires some of you. It's good stuff.
Ok
I've installed plenty of James Hardy siding over many years now. With a 50 year warranty and fire proof all for $9 per lap siding boards
love seeing how things are made.
Discovered it in 1990 as a tile setter in San Diego...the birthplace of Hardi Backerboard. Loved it but have since moved onto something easier to cut and lighter in weight.
OK... no idea why that was offered to me but what a great little vid! I never wondered how it was made and now I'm glad I know. Thx!
Great product, looks much nicer than vinyl siding, the prepainted version has a 20 year color warranty.
Used it on my house. I used panels instead of planks. It looks like stucco. Great material choice in my situation.
Amazing product!
New friend, watching from manilaP, hilippines👍🇵🇭
Great stuff !
Hardie board is genius material.
The key is "following OEM installation instructions" which is widely ignored in a construction industry full of individuals where English is a 2nd language. Failure of the product not installed properly is well documented.
keep in mind that putting paint on hardiplanks will have a potentially combustible layer of paint that can allow flames to crawl up the wall and up the soffit vents
I worked for a company for 25 years that made the plastic pallet covers for this company.
hey nice always wondered how they made the hardie board
9yo video and lots of recent comments. Love the Facade ending quote as god knows what is going on inside that house.
Working with all different brands of siding I can vouch that LP Smartside the way to go.
Paid post. Wood and glue are terrible compared to durability of cement based siding
My house uses this and it is very good. However, it acts like a giant diaphragm with sound; a car door slammed nearby transfers the sound wave like a giant speaker. Otherwise, love it.
Which site is this?
This is a section from the TV series, How It’s Made. I loved that show!
Always wonder
The drawback to this siding, is that it replaced stucco as the go-to exterior finish. Now it’s so hard to find a good traditional style stucco guy.
“Stucco guy” is actually called a plasterer.
In the UK, siding refers to a railway goods yard !!
Same here in the U.S. but it also refers to exterior siding on a structure. How do we know the difference in conversation? When in a rail yard, It means a rail siding. When building a home? It's usually the exterior surface.
Is there any running plant in india who manufactures these types of boards??
I don't think you tube commenter would have your answer
It's getting pretty expensive lately...almost $12 a board now.😕
It's right under the $20/board here in Canada.
If one side of your house is in shade year round the Hardy Plank is going to mildew. Ask me how I know...
...it happened to me.
Why wouldn't they just dye the concrete slurry rather than painting it?
lot less used,and I don't think it can take the cooking process well
The finish looks better painted at the end
I wonder what the additives are!!!!
it's the vaccine. That's how they get ya
Sand cardboard and cement! If it gets wet and it's not painted. It is not useable.
Hardie Board! For cheap houses everywhere.
Good when it's installed correctly, which I've never seen it installed correctly... sooo yeah
The problem is too much Portland cement makes it too brittle to install and too much fiber makes it fall apart. I think we just about replaced all the LP so now we’re replacing all the bad Hardie
Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly forgot the password. I would love any help you can offer me
@Maurice Brock Instablaster :)
@Rene Kohen i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Rene Kohen It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
@Maurice Brock No problem xD
all this time I thought they had used fiberglass to replace the Asbestoses fibers.
What about termites?
Termites don't eat concrete
I’ve repainted tons of it. It’s good if installed correctly. That being said a lot of it has not been installed correctly. It’s unfortunate that the asbestos fiber cement had to go. That stuff would have saved people alot of money. Hard compressed asbestos is not really that dangerous either.
unless you cut or grind it. Then....
@@4n2earth22 they have shears for the hardie board that cut it without making dust. I would feel more comfortable installing that stuff with the aid of PPE and dust extraction hooked up to the saw then to run the risk of using an inferior product personally. It was mainly the loose asbestos that was most dangerous. Insulation products not the car breaks and siding
@@mfblowfish4671 The real problem with Ass-bet-us is the fanatical crazy expense of dealing with the crap. I did hazmat clean up for lead and the ass crap. Ya gotta find a real way to deal with it that does not cost cost cost cost.
@@4n2earth22 it’s a great way to sell rolls of plastic sheeting. I’ve worked on a couple abatement jobs too. It’s mostly a joke for what the expense is. I’m almost certain that the plastic industry had lobbied for the big lead paint scare that was promoted heavily 10-15 years ago. They never really did any residential enforcement in my area thou. It was pissing people off when they started getting estimates for 30-40K to repaint their downtown homes.
@@mfblowfish4671 car brakes abrade over time and release the dust into the air. Probably not a good idea with asbestos lol
Pretty much like making paper.
And you can burn it and pull it out of the fire and it looks like it did when you put it in the fire...
True wityh the old stuff that contained asbestos but not the new boards made with wood fibers.
MIne suffers from shrinkage leaving gaps and deliaminating ....
additives huh? secret ingredients much!
Elmer’s glue, guar gum and a dash of baking soda.
where does all that toxic waste water go?
LP smartside is better in every aspect. Lighter, more durable, wont snap when you hold it, more hail resistant, non porous, quicker to install and longer lasting
I totally agree, longer boards 16 ft = less joints , more intricate cuts and no silicosis.👍📐🇨🇦
Garbage and everyone knows it
Those who don't know how to handle and install it will agree completely.
Sounds similar to chipboard.
It's NOTHING like chipboard.
Not even close.
Why don’t you tell people that there are many lawsuits against your company
Hardie board has a 30 year warranty...
Rot free
A product I do not like. Its heavy, breaks easily, have to use a special saw blade to cut it and the dust is crazy. . Nail heads exposed and nailed to close to the edge it just splits and cracks into layers. Now I know why it splits apart. Left outside unpainted it crumbles. I used smart siding on a dog house that was never painted and 7 years later its still not rotted. I have seen the old Masonite siding last longer and it's basically cardboard. In my opinion any product will last as long or longer if properly primed, painted and maintained. The very same thing you will have to do with Hardie if you want it to last. I like the 3x5 1/2" underlayment for tile work. Its not cosmetic. I have yet to see 1 job of Hardie as siding, facia, or soffits that don't have nails protruding splits or cracks in its surface. To each their own but I would never use Hardie as a finished surfaced product on any part of the exterior of a house.
As an install I agree with you. Unfortunately almost every contractor that builds homes where I live loves it
I used screws. Predrilled and countersunk all holes, then painted. No problems after 10+ years. The issue with nail heads is common to all materials, though worse with some. If done with countersunk screws, and installed properly, the maintenance free life more than makes up for the short life of the tools being used.
I believe it's mostly on the installer. I mean... really... Nails + Concrete material = failure in so many ways.
I built an attic dormer with it in 2010. The Hardie plank I used was pre-owned, so I don't know how old it was before I got it. I cut it with regular circular saw blades, did not pre-drill anything, installed it with galvanized nails, painted it once and have never had a problem. I did major paint touch-up on the redwood lapboard siding all around on the body of the house last summer, and the Hardie planked dormer was the only part of the house that didn't need anything. To be fair, the dormer is 17 feet off the ground and the top couple rows of it are protected by soffit, but really no complaints so far, 13 years on.
My home has this product. The finish falls off and Hardie doesn’t stand behind it. Poor product.
Maybe your home is the problem. Might not be insulated properly and allowing water vapor to get behind the siding. Maybe your siding is not installed correctly. I have this product on my house and barn, and it has been there for 20 years without a problem. The barn only has one coat of paint on it (yes I'm a procrastinator) and it still looks good.
A nice covering for the wooden boxes that Americans call houses.
Doesn't matter that this stuff will last fifty years the house will need replacing in 15 years!!
My first wooden box house was built in 1959 and had survived 8 Houston hurricanes lol
I have brick walls that were insulated by wool and im looking to put these on. So it may be used not only on wooden boxes.
I used hardie siding and it was a complete waste of money and hardie plank never came good for it , total lost of money for me.
Then you did it wrong. Its great siding. Use lots of it.
The back ground noise "music?" is annoying making it impossible to listen to, it's like a horribly produced music video
Lots of maintenance. Repainting the every few years. If you want the best product Everlast vinyl cladding! I. Remove a lot of Hardie. And replace it with Everlast!
Vinyl has its own issues in manufacturing affecting health of employees.
@@Roscoe8161 it's not vinyl siding. It's better
Why wouldn't they just dye the cement a particular color rather than painting it?
@@youbadolivez cheaper to paint. You cut it paint it caulk it and touch ups.
My last house was painted 12 years before it was sold and it was in the south missippi sunshine. Use good paint and apply it properly.
Hardie siding takes paint well.
The new LP Smart siding has this garbage beat. Not the orignal LP siding, the newer updated version.
I agree been using LP for over 10 years .16 footers = less joints ,more intricate cuts and no silicosis.
Yea ok, just wood garbage and glue has cement beat. Ok boomer
@@magictrading8903 Speaking from experience. The cement board blows out the back side from the nail being driven through, weakening it everywhere it's nailed. Corners cut out where windows and doors are inevitably cracking the board in two. Used it orginally in '98 and at that time they said you could install without splices at the ends, just leave a 3/8" gap, paint the raw ends, and caulk the gap. Now those joints are swelled and naturally the gaps need to be recaulked. Now they don't recommend installing without splices, but if you do, they're to be installed without a gap. Sounds well engineered, doesn't it? Just my opinion and experience, and if you don't like it, I really couldn't care less.
@@kellyappel3015 every single LP cut and exposed edge needs to be painted / sealed… tell me this isn’t a huge vulnerability? It’s just common sense that wood and glue is a bad choice for exterior siding. An inorganic material will always be superior to organic when exposed to the elements
@@magictrading8903 Go with it. I won't use it again.
worst crap ever made
I live in a mining town in northern Canada. The weather ranges from 80 degrees F in the summer, to minus 40 degrees F in the winter. Many of the houses built 60 years ago have Hardie Board siding...and most of it is still good although it has needed painting about every 20 years or so. It's only crap if you don't know how to install it properly.
Bullcrap. Youre an idiot. Hardi siding is great stuff.
Fiber cement siding is garbage. Hardie is just the best garbage on the market