Found this video (I specifically look for your videos). This method worked like a charm on my '75 TR6. I also made an extra stud just to have in my shop. Great video!!!
One time my late Father drove us 550 miles from London to his Mother's in Eastern France, he complained about a knocking noise from the trailing arm on the LH side of our Triumph 2000TC Saloon, he asked me to investigate, I found a small rock in the alloy trailing arm and removed it, also the half a ten pound note, which was quite a bit back then! I took it to the bank on our return to the UK, and they gave me a new one!
Should use a coarse thread into the trailing arm. The fine thread can’t be torqued enough and could strip again. Should also use a bottoming tap for the thread.
That occurred to me, too. I've heard a coarse thread is better in aluminum. I might also run a "bottoming" tap in, after starting the new threads with a standard tap. That would insure full threads cut deeper in the hole. (A bottoming tap can be made from a standard tap with a grinding wheel, if need be, if the tap is long enough for the job.) But overall, Elin's is a great idea and a reasonably easy fix for a common problem in the IRS TRs.
Was worried about the material spec when you said that you were going to machine new studs; should have known better... your use of a automotive grade bolt was a great idea. As well as overtightening, the original threads can also suffer from dissimilar metal corrosion and I had to replace all six on a Triumph Stag. I bought from a specialist supplier who provided reducing studs using a 3/8 coarse thread and had a scheme to loan the tapping drill, 1st and second taps and jigs to ensure perfect alignment. Your solution definitely cheaper for the fewer number, but alignment must be good otherwise it might be difficult to slip the hub over wonky studs
Im in the middle of a body off restoration on my tr6. I used helicoils, 3/8th by 24 in trailing arm, which would bring the stud size down to the original size of 5/16th by 24. Wouldnt this be the same?
Elin, (only if a 5/16 socket could fit through the access hole in the hub plate), could you not just fit a new full 5/16 stud for this job and therefore save having to turn-down one end of the stud to 1/4 inch on a lathe? 🤔
Hello Elin , Enjoy your videos very much , especially your attention to detail. Have on question on this fix , would it not be advisable to do this repair to all six locations ?
Found this video (I specifically look for your videos). This method worked like a charm on my '75 TR6. I also made an extra stud just to have in my shop. Great video!!!
Thanks Elin!!.. found this video and it worked like a charm on my '75 TR6. I made an extra stud just in case I need it too.
love your work learning a lot thank you Sir your process with the tap can be used in many applications im 58 never too old to learn
One time my late Father drove us 550 miles from London to his Mother's in Eastern France, he complained about a knocking noise from the trailing arm on the LH side of our Triumph 2000TC Saloon, he asked me to investigate, I found a small rock in the alloy trailing arm and removed it, also the half a ten pound note, which was quite a bit back then! I took it to the bank on our return to the UK, and they gave me a new one!
There are premade studs available in lots of sizes and lengths . Fastenall or brofasco to name a couple places. Also i would use 3/8-16.
Should use a coarse thread into the trailing arm. The fine thread can’t be torqued enough and could strip again. Should also use a bottoming tap for the thread.
Very useful, did the same on one side to see if there was grease zerk for the UJ - No zerk on my TR4A :-)
Thank you Elin
Well done , simple solution. Lots of good comments here already.
Good luck from Spain!!
Happy Saturday morning
Wouldn't a course thread be better/stronger, 3/8 x 16 instead of 3/8 x 24?
That occurred to me, too. I've heard a coarse thread is better in aluminum.
I might also run a "bottoming" tap in, after starting the new threads with a standard tap. That would insure full threads cut deeper in the hole. (A bottoming tap can be made from a standard tap with a grinding wheel, if need be, if the tap is long enough for the job.)
But overall, Elin's is a great idea and a reasonably easy fix for a common problem in the IRS TRs.
always valuable info, thanks
Great solution. I use helicoil is aluminium for stronger thread. This is great here.
Always more robust. Same on motorbikes..
Was worried about the material spec when you said that you were going to machine new studs; should have known better... your use of a automotive grade bolt was a great idea.
As well as overtightening, the original threads can also suffer from dissimilar metal corrosion and I had to replace all six on a Triumph Stag. I bought from a specialist supplier who provided reducing studs using a 3/8 coarse thread and had a scheme to loan the tapping drill, 1st and second taps and jigs to ensure perfect alignment. Your solution definitely cheaper for the fewer number, but alignment must be good otherwise it might be difficult to slip the hub over wonky studs
Brilliant solution!
Nice job Elin as usual. Now I'm going to check my axle studs! Hey, aren't I a Patreon? I don't see me on the list. Kidding.
Im in the middle of a body off restoration on my tr6. I used helicoils, 3/8th by 24 in trailing arm, which would bring the stud size down to the original size of 5/16th by 24. Wouldnt this be the same?
Elin, (only if a 5/16 socket could fit through the access hole in the hub plate), could you not just fit a new full 5/16 stud for this job and therefore save having to turn-down one end of the stud to 1/4 inch on a lathe? 🤔
Hello Elin ,
Enjoy your videos very much , especially your attention to detail. Have on question on this fix , would it not be advisable to do this repair to all six locations ?
Timeserts ?🏴
Zoom zoom 😀
Never thought to do it this way. I’ve done mine using bullfire website technique. Nice job though!👌