There should be more info about opening, disassembling and reassembling of the synth. So the 26' video contains at least 20' of absolutely useless infos for someone who just wants so solve the encoder problem (he is talking about potentiometers, but they are encoders since it is digitally controlled).
I am sorry I did not make the video solely for you and your short attention span and your expectation that people on youtube should be making video's very short just for you. maybe you can make some youtube videos yourself that are very short so you can save people time as I see you have contributed nothing to youtube maybe now is a good time to get the camera out and show us what we should be doing. ps there are Potentiometers and encoders on the Andromeda A6.
@@markusfuller You can do what ever you want on youtube. And I can post my opinion about it. But at least entitle the video according to the intentions of what you want to show us. My span of attention ends when I am feeling that I loos my time. You have to understand that there a millions of channels and billions of hours of video. If someone like me is looking for a specific information that your video title is suggesting to deliver then please come to the point. Imagine if all tutorials were like this one. Or is it not a tutorial. What is it then? Entertainment? Encoders: all parameters you can digitally store need to be controlled by encoders...
@@storzenberg there are encoders and potentiometers with AD converters on the andromeda (and in many synths btw), the guy on the video is right and you are wrong.
Thanks for making this video Markus! My Andromeda had similar problems with the jumping values and i was tired of it. So after seeing this i bought a bottle of Deoxit, opened up the synth and got to work. I was kind of hestitant, because i have pretty much no experience fixing or opening up synths, but i got to work really carefully. It was a long (took me 2.5 hours), but easy job. Now it works like a charm again! Thank you so much for your tutorial! 🙌
I lusted after the Andromeda in 1999 and had just got my rca advance for my record. I didn’t end up buying the andromeda. I was waiting on The Moog Muse and got tired of waiting so I decided to buy an Andromeda. It arrived 1 week ago. I was told upfront that it had the parameter jump issue AND BOY IT DID! I followed Your Instructions and AFTER A LONG EVENING OF BEING BENT OVER THE SYNTH, I got it all back together. PROBLEM FIXED! NO ISSUE! I cannot believe in retrospect that I waited so long to buy the Andromeda. It’s still very relevant after 24 years! it’s magical. Thank You!
I can’t tell you how many amps and receivers that I have purchased as “dead” only to tear down, clean the pots and switches with Deoxit, and voila-they work! The worst is offender is a Yamaha CA-1000 amp where the Pre-Out/Main jumper switch seizes up. Nice work!
I wish to express my gratitude for this video. I recently bought an andromeda that was doing exactly what the one in this video was doing. Thanks to your walkthrough in this video, I was able to pull it apart, deox it, and put it back together. It now works perfectly. Thank you for this video; your work here helped me to land and fix an andromeda that is now prominently placed in my studio. ✌️🖖
Absolutely worked!! I was a little scared at first but I took my time and was able to get two of the panels removed and the pots serviced with the Fader F5 spray. The third panel's screws were too tight to remove so instead of stripping them I just had to spray through the top panel. Either way, I have a beautifully functioning Andromeda again. THANK YOU!
Fantastic video, thanks for making it. I own an Andromeda and it is one of the most powerful analog synthesizers ever made yet gets very little attention. My unit exhibits the same behavior as you demonstrated and I will clean the pots to rectify it.
Great to see another video from you Markus! Deoxit is not cheap, but it works the best of all that I've tried. There are also smaller canisters available. I personally transfer some of it in a needle dispenser bottle when I'm doing rework on pots and faders. Makes it easier to apply, and with the big can I've found you can easily spray too much.
Great video! I sometimes have that knob problem if I don´t use it for some months. Just turn each of them for 30 seconds fix it. Btw, each of the the ASO/ASF chips actually have the equivalent of two voices, so *four* oscillators and *four* filters each. Pretty amazing.
A6 owner and the movement of the mod wheel along the pitch wheel is not supposed to happen. That would infuriate me. Magnificent synthesizer and worthy of all fixing. My pitch wheel originally sprang back to the zero position, later deciding not to. At first I wanted to repair it, but ended up using it to the advantage of my music. One day I turned my A6 on and it didn't work. For 6 years I lived without it because the problem seemed expensive. One beautiful day I tried it again and it worked perfectly and I am in sonic heaven.
A new Markus' video featuring an Alesis Andromeda -> instant click :-D Maybe this Andromeda is Matt Johnson's (Jamiroquai keyboardist) one? I saw a video of him featuring his A6 and it had a black panel, like the one you featured in your video. Normally the Andromeda's panel is light grey from the factory, the black panel and you saying that this Andromeda toured all around the world makes me think that it's his.
I was thinking about the same thing ! Matt also references the Moog One which ironically sits below the Andromeda at the end of the video! Always happy to see notification with a new Markus video, you always learn so much!
@@jthorpe4droid I noticed the sign on the back, but I don't know how Matt's sign looks so I didn't gave it too much consideration. And now that I'm rewatching the video, I noticed a preset that's called "MATT SOLO". Quite another telltale sign.
@@mima85 I just happened to see his video with the Andromeda, and there's no signature, or maybe he didn't sign it yet? ua-cam.com/video/bWAxGUG_jaY/v-deo.html
Nice "review/repair" video Markus. I've been using Deoxit for years now. The only downside is that it doesn't last for very long, especially on poor quality potentiometers, such as the ones used by Alesis back in the days of this synth (and also my Alesis Ion too). BTW, old bottles of Deoxit used to have an adjustment for the nozzle spray force, but unfortunately the makers of this product replaced it with this articulated straw which leaks everywhere and spray WAY too strongly (probably in order to waste some of the product each time to empty that bottle faster). But fortunately, the product itself still works fine. I've done this a few times in my Alesis Ion before. Nowadays, I don't use it anymore though. Thanks for sharing.
Your videos have taught me some really useful electronic repair skills. Replaced a failing pot on my favorite synth, lots of troubleshooting on my DIY stuff, and even non-synth stuff like replacing a worn out button on my computer mouse and fixing an old Nintendo DS that couldn't charge after having been dropped years ago. Thanks for the entertaining and educational videos :)
I bought one of these new years ago. Only has a few hours on it. Been in original box most of it's whole life. Interesting to see what's inside. Nice song!
Thanks Marc. I never thought I would ever be able to get one . With all these remakes of old synths I wish they would remake this andromeda so everyone could have one.
@@markusfuller You and I are birds of a feather! I've been playing synths and producing since the late 80's, and we have very similar taste in gear. I very much want an Iridium or Moog One, but for now I just have my Andromeda...and it's got the same problem with the pots. I'm extremely intimidated to pull off the fix you did, but thanks to your video I might go for it. Thanks again!
@@CarlSolovox Hi Solovox, sadly I dont own the moog one or iridium, they are no longer here. but I do own the andromeda which is wonderful. It is worth doing the pot cleaning job if you can but just be patient and take your time and it should be ok. I think the pot problem is quite common on this keyboard.
Thanks Markus, I own one of these , my same 8 pots can mess things up, so i put a dust cover on the A6, and hope it doesn't happen again! Unfortunately i'm to gutless to open it up and spray F5 in
I have moved my Alesis QS8.1 on to my friend who is learning to play the piano, Great bit of kit, he nearly died when i told him it was a very entry level synthesizer not a stage piano. He loves it! reason i moved it on, was a Kurzweil K2600 XS popped up for sale, so i snapped it up.
alternative would be a Akai S3000XL or CD3000XL sampler, but the mesa edit software is old, SCSI cards are out of ....., but i believe some SD card adapter instead of floppy drive exists. i still have one (CD3000XL) and the cd as orginal owner.
I have a Roland JP8080 rack synth in desperate need of Deoxit for this very reason. The pots can develop oxidation over time. Thanks for reminding me with the video.
Nice vid! I'm still reluctant to use Deoxit on actual faders though as, like you mentioned, it will dissolve the lubricant and make problems worse in the end. Applying lubricant after involves opening the actual faders which on certain mixers for instance is quite the nighmare.
Good thoughts. Looks like he addresses that at the 8 minute mark and also the 15:25 minute mark, indicating that it's safe to spray into the 2 small holes on the base of the potentiometer, rather than into the shaft on the top (where the lubricant is). If other's chime in this specific topic, that'd be great too.
Great video! I have the same problem with my Andromeda. Not too bad though, just a few pots that keep the values jumping.... but I just put a can of that deoxit in the cart for when I get some time to work on mu baby
Amazing video - and informatic and entertaining as well! I will try that as my Display does some crazy things too. Thanks a lot for making this useful video.
Awesome, and thanks much! Have had the exact same problem and through clean ups in the past have helped, the "phantom changing pots problem" inevitably returns. Periodic pot maintenance is just the norm, it seems, though I'd love a more permanent solution.
@@markusfuller I was considering a full pot replacement 5-6 years ago, but was told there wasn't a "suitable substitute" part to replace the original pots. I've since been told by a tech in the US, that there is a pot that will work, but based on a pending move back to Europe, I held off getting it done. The tech seemed a bit dodgy, and I've just had better luck getting stuff fixed here in Germany.
no see you long time, where have you been? waiting good videos from you about electronics components (like Transistors, mosfets, inductors, transformers, SMPS etc...cuz you are perfect at explaining) 👍👍👍
Thankyou Hayder. I have been busy and not had any free time to make videos. I am quite random so maybe I will get back to components etc again one day.
@@markusfuller Yes Sir, I wish you lots and lots of free time, others may not be that important but SMPS (switch mode power supply) is very important topic these days so consider to make a video about it first when you get back, cuz theres almost no good video tutorial about that on youtube, do it in your own method of explaining and I am sure you`ll win the top price why? cuz I have been surfing video tutorials up and down on internet for years now, I can tell you that theres hardly anyone who gives near perfect explanation "in native British English" ... cheers (y)
That wouldn't be Matt Johnsons' Andy would it? Lovely synth. i had one for a couple of years, until it started developing the beginnings of some issues as well. i had it fixed and then sold it. Still, it's a sound designers dream of a synth. It does have some peculiarities though, such as the super sensitivity of the little soft pots, and the crazy high resolution you're supposed over extreme ranges, of which only a small percentage is useful. It can be really fiddly. Also.. I watched this on my phone (which doesn't have an Ad Blocker), and I don't think I've ever watched so many commercials in such a small span of time.. I don't think I'll be doing that again :)
Of course youtube didn't notify me about this....Was just using the F5 fader lube yesterday and today on Roland AIRA series. They can start acting just like this and dripping a tiny bit of the fader lube down the shafts (I'm using the pure lube, not the spray can of combination cleaner/lube) has improved things quite a bit without disassembly. Hoping to avoid going to complete disassembly and desolder level (not sure these have any holes, may need to use the bendy tabs on the back side to get inside them). Will take hours for sure. Time will tell on that. Either way, this stuff is quite handy and doesn't remove all the lubrication like the normal 'dry' deoxit/iso alone can.
Yes it does take a long time to do the job . I’m just fortunate that I did not have to unsolder and disassemble these pots as that would have taken me weeks.
Oh yeah, dissecting an A6!! Loved seeing the inside of this, it will help me in the future if I ever need to get inside of mine 😁 hopefully not for a very long time though. Great track at the end, like how the A6 is being accompanied by some other amazing synths!
Thanks Marshal. I always enjoy watching your excellent video's. I wish someone would remake this synth at a better price as it's so incredibly versatile and hard to explain the sort of complex sound that you can get from it.
@@markusfuller A Better Price? I bought my Andy(A6) about 15-17 years ago. They were going for about $3000 back then. The A6 packs a lot of features and power. The price of the Moog One reflects that it is a Moog, not an Alesis. Is your Moog One an 8 Voice or 16? The problem of the A6 was not the price tag, it was its reliability. I have had varying issues for years. Mine is very temperamental. Including the pots having issues. I never took it apart due to fear of really messing it up. I have cleaned pots on other synths but not the Andy. I think it may be about time I open the beast. I had a Roland Jupiter 8 at one time and the A6 still is my favorite synth I have ever owned. I will never part with it, at any price.
BakerSynth Hello. my moog one is the 16 voice. I had the system-55 but had to sell that to get some money in the bank and pay off a few things but I missed that moog sound so bought the one-16 to try to replace the system-55, it doesn’t replace it but it is its own unique thing and other than the not so great keyboard I do like everything else about it. the A6 sounds incredible but I do get lost trying to get into the programming side of it.
I had one of these for a couple of years. The first had to be returned with a failed display on arrival. The second was OK for a few months before the display started to go wrong - pixels stuck on or off. I put up with it and eventually replaced the display and sold it. Oddly, it's never been a synth I've missed. Despite having a lot of controls, I found there was still a lot of menu diving to do and a sense that the main processor was right at it's limit trying to hold it all together. I'd buy back my Jupiter 6 in a heart beat but not one of these.
I never liked the menu diving either. But I had to do it that way because of the number of features and the size of the display. I still have the one I developed the software on. Still runs. It is a pre-production unit, the main one used to develop the software.
I did this with the knobs off only. Fixed most of them actually. There one or 2 still wonky but the A6 is that that great of a synth, its epic! But not something I use any more.
You know what? I sometimes even use WD40 for such things. Not on micro-electronics, mind you, but I have had very good results with pots and chunky old organ switches. It works surprisingly well on older stuff with worn out contacts. It then seems to have just enough conductivity to save one from a replacement job and the effect is also a lasting one. I for instance also put it on an unobtainable double volume pot assembly in a HIFI amplifier and it has been working for years since it. Before the cure it was awfull! That saved me the investment in a new amp. Again though: I only use it if the circumstances merit it. :-)
Curious--do you mean you spray the WD40 on the pot itself and forgo taking the whole beast apart? Or you do this whole procedure and use WD40 instead of the Deoxit F5? Because I'm terrified of taking the whole thing apart!
@@CarlSolovox NOOOO! I wouldn't use it from the outside without disassembly. Do not interpret this as me selling some sort of fix it all wonder oil. Like already metioned: Only use thsi when the circumstances specificly merits it so with big parts and very locally applied. I would even advise agaist using Deoxit type products without disassembly since you might actually burry the crud even deeper within the mechanism. Only do that sort of stuff if you are totally sure no micro electronics are near. So MAYBE on a simple expression / pitch bend wheel assembly after confirming it's isolation by looking at the exploded view in a service manual. Furtemore faders, espexcially motorised ones, might contain rubber parts that are not resistent to such fluids. For instance. For my VS2480 audio workstation Roland very clealry states that the faders should only be cleaned maunually without any fluids. And so I still opened it up in spite of the faders seeming to be rather accesible from the outside. And in deed: On the inside I found all sorts of wheels and belts.
I think most of owners have the pot issue with the display. Besides the common voices will not tune or voices are not amplified properly. Sound A+. Reliability D .
Your videos are full of great info. Going thru all the pots on a machine this size is a long job. At least you get to have a bit of fun before it goes back home. I've seen you add CV connections to Moogs and it would be awesome if one day you could show that Prophet 5 filter Rev-1 mod I have been reading about. They say it's easy enough to install yourself, but the PDF looks more like a pro tech should do the job ;)
@@markusfuller The mod I referred to is this one. www.analoguerenaissance.com/rev-1/ Of course, you'll need a Prophet 5 Rev 3 to do the mod on ;) That is a different problem to have.
Looks like this video solved the problem, but thought I'd add other troubleshooting thoughts from Michael Caloroso's (A6 developer) page: ""Self edit" bug. The root cause is oxidizing contacts on the ribbon connectors for the front panel boards. The oxidization wreaks havoc on the voltages from the knobs, and the OS thinks that a user is manipulating a control. THAT'S what causes the "self edit". I had similar issues with other synths. The problem can be fixed by re-seating the ribbon cable connectors (WARNING make SURE the connectors are NOT offset from the header pins - I did that once and blew the FX ASIC). But the connectors oxidize again over time; I had to re-seat the connectors every 2-3 years."
I had a synth where I actually fixed an issue by taking the ribbon off that connect to a voice amplifier VCA card. Sprayed it with contact cleaner and reseated the ribbon and fixed the issue. So it may be two fold. The pots and a Ribbon problem at times.
unfortunately the problem will come back and it wont take too long, in less then an year very possibly, its a pity cause otherwise this is most probably the best poly synth ever made!!!
@@markusfuller That's a shame. I've had mine since new, the encoders are still OK on mine, but some of the buttons have become less responsive over time. It's also stopped reading the memory card. It really needs a service.
@@bc_uk Dumb question, did the SRAM memory card battery die? My memory card still works fine fortunately. As far as repair, if you can find a tech and any parts needed for repair, let the rest of us A6 owners know. I would do anything for a 100% functioning A6. My A6 that is.
@@bc_uk Sorry to hear that it is definitely the card reader. I am tempted to at least clean it with compressed air. But if it is still working for me I probably will not mess with it. I feel that having a RAM card gives me a lot more storage I really use.
I used something similar to fix a XioSynth a couple of years back. Servisol I think it was, not cheap, but it worked. I originally bought the stuff to clean up my Korg Delta.
I followed this step by step and have had fairly good success with the pots response in comparison to before, but... the pots feel a lot looser and less lovely resistance when turning. Any recommendations on getting them closer to before after spraying with f5?
That is a funny design, using one PCM54 Audio DAC to control the pitch of 8 oscillators (4 voices * 2 osciallators). The OPAMP circuit behind the DAC uses an OPA2134, so it looks like an audio amp, but the second stage that adds an offset voltage tells that it isn't. And since they are just fed manually by the host CPU data bus by writing to an 16 bit latch, it doesn't look like there is any audio data going through that path. There must be a demultiplexer (like CD4051) plus hold circuit in each of the ASO ASICs, and I would bet that these 8 pcs 390pF capacitors connected to C1.1 to C2.4 are the control voltage hold capacitors for that.
Hi Chip Guy. There is another board under the board with the PCM54's that has the multiple outputs on filter in etc and a lot of components on that but I did not want to take too much apart unless i created new problems. It would be interesting to know what is on that board. maybe someone has pictured it on google somewhere.
@@markusfuller If I am not mistaken the board underneath is mostly empty and only littered with small islands of OPAMP driver circuits for the individual outputs and stuff. Interestingly with rather low end opamps TL082.
Chip Guy oh I did not get to have a good look. I just viewed from the edge and saw a few things under there. glad i never took that top board off now as it would have been disappointing.
@Chip Guy All S/H are inside the ASIC's and there are a mountain of them so they needed several PCM54's to be able to mux all the voltages out as the internal S/H cap on the chip is small. The caps you see are VCO/VCAVCF caps. Each ASO chip requires 40 S/H caps and each ASF requires 22 S/H caps.
Hi I am very sorry for the late reply. I did not use any glue to reseat the ribbon cable but you are correct that I should have. maybe a hot glue gun would have been the best way. best wishes
DeOxit is an essential tool if you own any old audio kit. Perhaps it's not as popular in the UK as it is here in North America? Every tech I know here swears by it.
My experience repairing laptop computers is that missing screws can be a significant part of strange electrical behavior, especially the keyboard and trackpad, so when you initially started counting missing screws I thought, there is your problem lady😅
Coincidently yesterday I had to clean the port of a scart cable. For once I carefully read what I needed (what I thought was contact cleaner turned out to be LW, to be used after the contact cleaner), and I was warned not to use anything lubricant (like WD-40, which was in the house) for that would be fatty. So I used the alcohol. Now I'm a bit surprised something can clean contacts (uncovers them from oxidation and dirt) as well as lubricate (covers them). But hey, I know hardly nothing about these things. Learning every day. Maybe you can explain?
WD-40 is not exactly a lubricant. It is a Water Displacement as in WD and it was the 40th version made by the company that designed it. also used for helping Ice to fall away from the sides of rockets on the launchpad.
Thank you for your answer. The confusing started with the fact that the brand of my (supposed) contact spray (as it is called here) is Kontakt, but my can of WL (Washing Liquid?) is supposed to be used after using the 'real' cleaner (Kontakt 60) to remove the residu. Since suddenly my TV broke down I was in a hurry, and first instance showed many people cheering the WD-40 (interesting story), which was in the house, but then more technical forums brought up this discussion (WD-40 would rather be an isolator in the end). My comment was triggered even more by the fact that WD-40 has a 'specialized' product line, containing a dedicated contact spray in a can in a very similar color scheme as the product you used.
Interesting video and synth like always. I dont believe in these sprays. They claim to remove dirt and stuff but where does it go? It stays in the pot and the problem will appear again later. Opening pots and cleaning them with isopropanol is a pain but its worth it.
I would love to have opened all the pots and cleaned them properly but they have to be unsoldered taken apart cleaned and soldered back and there are far too many pots on this synth to do that. It would be easier to buy new pots and solder them in. if there were less I may have dismantled and cleaned properly.
Great video as usual. The deoxIT seems really good, just wondering if it's better than the RS stuff i'm currently using, which is pretty good, but DeoxIT gets stellar feedback so maybe it's worth it
Hi Marcus. I enjoy watching you open up keyboards so I can see inside them. Back in the 80’s, I bought a Wersi MK II synth. It came as a kit like a Heathkit sort of thing. It was a lot of fun putting together. Anyways, I have a Roland S50 that was in storage for quite a while. I got it out to use on a project. When I turned it on, the display was blank. Other than that, the keyboard functioned normally. After it was on for awhile, the display slowly came on. As I used it more and more, the display would start to work normally. I had it put away for about a year and got it back out. The display went back to being blank when the keyboard was turned on. I thought it might be a capacitor going bad, but I don’t see any in the circuit. Hoping you might have any suggestions. Thanks Marcus.
Hello John. that is a strange problem. It does sound like a capacitor problem but maybe the power supply is not giving the display enough power to light it up. you can connect an outboard display to these machines. maybe one of those small 8 or 10” colour screens would help and it will display far more things than the 2 line display.
@@markusfuller Hi Marcus. Thanks for the input. I have connected it to a Commodore NC1701 monitor and seen more info on it. I could remove the display from the keyboard and test it by connecting it to an Arduino. Also when I fired it up the first time after having it in storage, I got a popping sound when it booted up. I found that there is a relay that connects the sound output signal to the output jacks . I removed the relay and jumpered the connections directly which eliminated the problem. Not sure why the relay is necessary as long as you have the volume on the keyboard and the amp turned down which is what you should do with anything connected to an amp. Would like to see more videos of keyboard repairs. Great stuff Marcus.
TinkeringJohn Hi John, it would be good if you can connect the display up on an arduino for testing. i would not know where to start as I am far behind on arduino and still learning the programming. it took me weeks to make my robotic camera slider but more time to program than assembling the entire project. i must get back into it.
@@markusfuller Hey Marcus. I started getting into Arduino's when I built a kit to make an 8X8X8 LED cube. It came with an Arduino Uno board. I played around with the program to make my own animations on the cube. A good start would be to get an Elegoo Starter Kit for Arduino. I have both the Uno and Mega 2560 kits. I bought 3 plastic skulls with movable jaws, 3d printed some servo brackets so they move the heads left and right and open and close the mouths. I also installed LED's in the eyes. I recorded some voices saying Halloween stuff with the S50. I wrote a program for the Arduino and used a remote control to make them say things. When I pushed a button, the Arduino sent a midi message to the S50 to play one of the sayings I recorded. The mouths move by sampling the amplitude of the audio signal going to the amp. The eyes would light up on the skull that's speaking and the other 2 skulls would turn to face the speaking skull. I just started playing with the Raspberry Pi. I bought a Freenove robot dog kit that uses one.
Hi Mark, If all the voices can be recorded seperately then you could try different mix downs to see what sounds best in a final recording. I personally only ever record the stereo output.
There should be more info about opening, disassembling and reassembling of the synth. So the 26' video contains at least 20' of absolutely useless infos for someone who just wants so solve the encoder problem (he is talking about potentiometers, but they are encoders since it is digitally controlled).
I am sorry I did not make the video solely for you and your short attention span and your expectation that people on youtube should be making video's very short just for you. maybe you can make some youtube videos yourself that are very short so you can save people time as I see you have contributed nothing to youtube maybe now is a good time to get the camera out and show us what we should be doing. ps there are Potentiometers and encoders on the Andromeda A6.
@@markusfuller You can do what ever you want on youtube. And I can post my opinion about it. But at least entitle the video according to the intentions of what you want to show us. My span of attention ends when I am feeling that I loos my time. You have to understand that there a millions of channels and billions of hours of video. If someone like me is looking for a specific information that your video title is suggesting to deliver then please come to the point. Imagine if all tutorials were like this one. Or is it not a tutorial. What is it then? Entertainment? Encoders: all parameters you can digitally store need to be controlled by encoders...
@@storzenberg there are encoders and potentiometers with AD converters on the andromeda (and in many synths btw), the guy on the video is right and you are wrong.
Thanks for making this video Markus! My Andromeda had similar problems with the jumping values and i was tired of it. So after seeing this i bought a bottle of Deoxit, opened up the synth and got to work.
I was kind of hestitant, because i have pretty much no experience fixing or opening up synths, but i got to work really carefully. It was a long (took me 2.5 hours), but easy job. Now it works like a charm again! Thank you so much for your tutorial! 🙌
I lusted after the Andromeda in 1999 and had just got my rca advance for my record. I didn’t end up buying the andromeda.
I was waiting on The Moog Muse and got tired of waiting so I decided to buy an Andromeda. It arrived 1 week ago. I was told upfront that it had the parameter jump issue AND BOY IT DID!
I followed Your Instructions and AFTER A LONG EVENING OF BEING BENT OVER THE SYNTH, I got it all back together. PROBLEM FIXED! NO ISSUE!
I cannot believe in retrospect that I waited so long to buy the Andromeda. It’s still very relevant after 24 years!
it’s magical.
Thank You!
I can’t tell you how many amps and receivers that I have purchased as “dead” only to tear down, clean the pots and switches with Deoxit, and voila-they work! The worst is offender is a Yamaha CA-1000 amp where the Pre-Out/Main jumper switch seizes up. Nice work!
I wish to express my gratitude for this video. I recently bought an andromeda that was doing exactly what the one in this video was doing. Thanks to your walkthrough in this video, I was able to pull it apart, deox it, and put it back together. It now works perfectly. Thank you for this video; your work here helped me to land and fix an andromeda that is now prominently placed in my studio. ✌️🖖
Thank you Michael. I am happy the video helped.
Came for the repair, was amazed by the end song, great stuff!
Thank you
Absolutely worked!! I was a little scared at first but I took my time and was able to get two of the panels removed and the pots serviced with the Fader F5 spray. The third panel's screws were too tight to remove so instead of stripping them I just had to spray through the top panel. Either way, I have a beautifully functioning Andromeda again. THANK YOU!
Fantastic video, thanks for making it. I own an Andromeda and it is one of the most powerful analog synthesizers ever made yet gets very little attention. My unit exhibits the same behavior as you demonstrated and I will clean the pots to rectify it.
Great to see another video from you Markus! Deoxit is not cheap, but it works the best of all that I've tried. There are also smaller canisters available. I personally transfer some of it in a needle dispenser bottle when I'm doing rework on pots and faders. Makes it easier to apply, and with the big can I've found you can easily spray too much.
Great Idea placing it into a smaller needle dispenser. much more control on how much you use and it will save a lot of deoxIT thats lost in the blast,
Great video! I sometimes have that knob problem if I don´t use it for some months. Just turn each of them for 30 seconds fix it.
Btw, each of the the ASO/ASF chips actually have the equivalent of two voices, so *four* oscillators and *four* filters each. Pretty amazing.
👍thank you for that.
A6 owner and the movement of the mod wheel along the pitch wheel is not supposed to happen. That would infuriate me. Magnificent synthesizer and worthy of all fixing. My pitch wheel originally sprang back to the zero position, later deciding not to. At first I wanted to repair it, but ended up using it to the advantage of my music.
One day I turned my A6 on and it didn't work. For 6 years I lived without it because the problem seemed expensive.
One beautiful day I tried it again and it worked perfectly and I am in sonic heaven.
You saved another synth you LEGEND.
BTW nice Moog One.
Glad that you're back, Marcus! Glad the spray worked so well, and really nice bit of jam at the end.
A new Markus' video featuring an Alesis Andromeda -> instant click :-D
Maybe this Andromeda is Matt Johnson's (Jamiroquai keyboardist) one? I saw a video of him featuring his A6 and it had a black panel, like the one you featured in your video. Normally the Andromeda's panel is light grey from the factory, the black panel and you saying that this Andromeda toured all around the world makes me think that it's his.
I was thinking about the same thing ! Matt also references the Moog One which ironically sits below the Andromeda at the end of the video!
Always happy to see notification with a new Markus video, you always learn so much!
I was going to say it looks like he signed the back of it maybe ?
@@jthorpe4droid I noticed the sign on the back, but I don't know how Matt's sign looks so I didn't gave it too much consideration.
And now that I'm rewatching the video, I noticed a preset that's called "MATT SOLO". Quite another telltale sign.
I was also thinking the same.. haha.. But there seem to be more blackface A6's around..
@@mima85 I just happened to see his video with the Andromeda, and there's no signature, or maybe he didn't sign it yet?
ua-cam.com/video/bWAxGUG_jaY/v-deo.html
Really glad to see you taking things apart again 😁😎
Pitch wheel and modulation wheel going up in tandem cracked me up 😂thanks Marcus for another entertaining repair video!
Nice "review/repair" video Markus. I've been using Deoxit for years now. The only downside is that it doesn't last for very long, especially on poor quality potentiometers, such as the ones used by Alesis back in the days of this synth (and also my Alesis Ion too). BTW, old bottles of Deoxit used to have an adjustment for the nozzle spray force, but unfortunately the makers of this product replaced it with this articulated straw which leaks everywhere and spray WAY too strongly (probably in order to waste some of the product each time to empty that bottle faster). But fortunately, the product itself still works fine.
I've done this a few times in my Alesis Ion before. Nowadays, I don't use it anymore though. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Alain. i think i will put some into a syringe and use it from that as there will be less waste and more control.
@@markusfuller
That's a good idea! Thanks!
Thumbs up by me 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 i like music demos..but repairs are beloved.Nice to found you Markus 😎
I have this issue with mine!! Super annoying! I am watching to see what happens you have me hooked
How interesting to see and hear this synth that was unknown to me! Nice repair job and I really enjoyed your music at the end. Well done Markus!
Whow that song at the end you make was very nice, also the repair of this A6👍😎
Thank you
Your videos have taught me some really useful electronic repair skills. Replaced a failing pot on my favorite synth, lots of troubleshooting on my DIY stuff, and even non-synth stuff like replacing a worn out button on my computer mouse and fixing an old Nintendo DS that couldn't charge after having been dropped years ago. Thanks for the entertaining and educational videos :)
Thank you. UA-cam has been a great place to share tips and tricks. I have learned a lot off different things there myself.
I had seen mention of Deoxit elsewhere so really valuable to get a hands-on demo of it being used properly. Thanks!
Audio still better than many channels. But at least you're the kind of person with a clear understanding of frequency response and audio engineering.
Thank you. I was trying out a different Mic . I think I will revert to the old one next time.
I bought one of these new years ago. Only has a few hours on it. Been in original box most of it's whole life. Interesting to see what's inside. Nice song!
Awesome seeing a new video! And of the Andromeda as well... Love that synth! And cool demo tune at the end!
Thanks Marc. I never thought I would ever be able to get one . With all these remakes of old synths I wish they would remake this andromeda so everyone could have one.
@@markusfuller You and I are birds of a feather! I've been playing synths and producing since the late 80's, and we have very similar taste in gear. I very much want an Iridium or Moog One, but for now I just have my Andromeda...and it's got the same problem with the pots. I'm extremely intimidated to pull off the fix you did, but thanks to your video I might go for it. Thanks again!
@@CarlSolovox Hi Solovox, sadly I dont own the moog one or iridium, they are no longer here. but I do own the andromeda which is wonderful. It is worth doing the pot cleaning job if you can but just be patient and take your time and it should be ok. I think the pot problem is quite common on this keyboard.
@@markusfuller Ok--thanks for the word of advice, and once again thank you for the video!
Thanks Markus, I own one of these , my same 8 pots can mess things up, so i put a dust cover on the A6, and hope it doesn't happen again! Unfortunately i'm to gutless to open it up and spray F5 in
awesome track at the end Markus!
Yeah, I've had good results with deoxit products in the past. Good stuff. Nice demo Marcus - looks like you've had some studio kit updates!
Wow the A6 is one monstrous beast to dive into. Great to see the electronic guts under the hood. Loved the jam at the end 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thank you Adam
I have moved my Alesis QS8.1 on to my friend who is learning to play the piano, Great bit of kit, he nearly died when i told him it was a very entry level synthesizer not a stage piano. He loves it! reason i moved it on, was a Kurzweil K2600 XS popped up for sale, so i snapped it up.
alternative would be a Akai S3000XL or CD3000XL sampler, but the mesa edit software is old, SCSI cards are out of ....., but i believe some SD card adapter instead of floppy drive exists.
i still have one (CD3000XL) and the cd as orginal owner.
I have a Roland JP8080 rack synth in desperate need of Deoxit for this very reason. The pots can develop oxidation over time. Thanks for reminding me with the video.
Woo hoo. Markus and a synth
Thank You Markus Fuller and Thumbs up! 👍
great video as usual thanks markus
Your talent, and patience (all those pots!) are inspiring! Love your music, so great! Thanks!
Invaluable......feeling more confident about stopping that nasty jump about
You always number one! ...and your synths are so good for my taste.
Nice vid! I'm still reluctant to use Deoxit on actual faders though as, like you mentioned, it will dissolve the lubricant and make problems worse in the end. Applying lubricant after involves opening the actual faders which on certain mixers for instance is quite the nighmare.
Good thoughts. Looks like he addresses that at the 8 minute mark and also the 15:25 minute mark, indicating that it's safe to spray into the 2 small holes on the base of the potentiometer, rather than into the shaft on the top (where the lubricant is). If other's chime in this specific topic, that'd be great too.
Great video Markus. Well sorted and well played. Loved it!
Thanks Alan
Great video! I have the same problem with my Andromeda. Not too bad though, just a few pots that keep the values jumping.... but I just put a can of that deoxit in the cart for when I get some time to work on mu baby
Good to have you back making video's. Hope to spot you in GAK again one day!
When life gets back to normality again. I miss going into GAK looking at all the things I should not be buying :-)
Amazing video - and informatic and entertaining as well! I will try that as my Display does some crazy things too. Thanks a lot for making this useful video.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video and share it
Love your tune at the end
Great video I have used that same spray to repair elevator electronics.
I’m not into electronics but I find your videos so interesting
Thank you
This is the exact problem my Xio synth has. It's worth a try
Glad you're back, professor Markus
sorry I have been away for so long.
Awesome, and thanks much! Have had the exact same problem and through clean ups in the past have helped, the "phantom changing pots problem" inevitably returns. Periodic pot maintenance is just the norm, it seems, though I'd love a more permanent solution.
I think this problem is on every A6 by now. I cannot think of a permanent way to fix it.
@@markusfuller I was considering a full pot replacement 5-6 years ago, but was told there wasn't a "suitable substitute" part to replace the original pots. I've since been told by a tech in the US, that there is a pot that will work, but based on a pending move back to Europe, I held off getting it done. The tech seemed a bit dodgy, and I've just had better luck getting stuff fixed here in Germany.
Great to see a new video Markus! :D
Love the pentatonic stuff at the end. Excellent repair instructions too.
Thank you Philip
Very entertaining video and musical ending !
no see you long time, where have you been? waiting good videos from you about electronics components (like Transistors, mosfets, inductors, transformers, SMPS etc...cuz you are perfect at explaining) 👍👍👍
Thankyou Hayder. I have been busy and not had any free time to make videos. I am quite random so maybe I will get back to components etc again one day.
@@markusfuller Yes Sir, I wish you lots and lots of free time, others may not be that important but SMPS (switch mode power supply) is very important topic these days so consider to make a video about it first when you get back, cuz theres almost no good video tutorial about that on youtube, do it in your own method of explaining and I am sure you`ll win the top price why? cuz I have been surfing video tutorials up and down on internet for years now, I can tell you that theres hardly anyone who gives near perfect explanation "in native British English" ... cheers (y)
Heyder Aliyev I will certainly see what i can do though I would need to look into the magic of SMPs as i know a little but not a lot about these.
Brilliant. I will absolutely try this. Thanks.
Such a beast of a synth
Saw you with Hydrasynth in one frame. Didn't noticed a screwdriver there though. looking forward to the teardown video!)
Love the filter on the A6!
Excellent video. You took me on a complete journey.
Thanks for this, very thorough explanation!
That wouldn't be Matt Johnsons' Andy would it?
Lovely synth. i had one for a couple of years, until it started developing the beginnings of some issues as well. i had it fixed and then sold it. Still, it's a sound designers dream of a synth. It does have some peculiarities though, such as the super sensitivity of the little soft pots, and the crazy high resolution you're supposed over extreme ranges, of which only a small percentage is useful. It can be really fiddly.
Also.. I watched this on my phone (which doesn't have an Ad Blocker), and I don't think I've ever watched so many commercials in such a small span of time.. I don't think I'll be doing that again :)
Hi I have managed to remove mid roll ads from the video. I never realised there were so many. so they are just at the start and end now.
Of course youtube didn't notify me about this....Was just using the F5 fader lube yesterday and today on Roland AIRA series. They can start acting just like this and dripping a tiny bit of the fader lube down the shafts (I'm using the pure lube, not the spray can of combination cleaner/lube) has improved things quite a bit without disassembly. Hoping to avoid going to complete disassembly and desolder level (not sure these have any holes, may need to use the bendy tabs on the back side to get inside them). Will take hours for sure. Time will tell on that. Either way, this stuff is quite handy and doesn't remove all the lubrication like the normal 'dry' deoxit/iso alone can.
Yes it does take a long time to do the job . I’m just fortunate that I did not have to unsolder and disassemble these pots as that would have taken me weeks.
Oh yeah, dissecting an A6!! Loved seeing the inside of this, it will help me in the future if I ever need to get inside of mine 😁 hopefully not for a very long time though. Great track at the end, like how the A6 is being accompanied by some other amazing synths!
Thanks Marshal. I always enjoy watching your excellent video's. I wish someone would remake this synth at a better price as it's so incredibly versatile and hard to explain the sort of complex sound that you can get from it.
@@markusfuller A Better Price? I bought my Andy(A6) about 15-17 years ago. They were going for about $3000 back then. The A6 packs a lot of features and power. The price of the Moog One reflects that it is a Moog, not an Alesis. Is your Moog One an 8 Voice or 16? The problem of the A6 was not the price tag, it was its reliability. I have had varying issues for years. Mine is very temperamental. Including the pots having issues. I never took it apart due to fear of really messing it up. I have cleaned pots on other synths but not the Andy. I think it may be about time I open the beast. I had a Roland Jupiter 8 at one time and the A6 still is my favorite synth I have ever owned. I will never part with it, at any price.
BakerSynth Hello. my moog one is the 16 voice. I had the system-55 but had to sell that to get some money in the bank and pay off a few things but I missed that moog sound so bought the one-16 to try to replace the system-55, it doesn’t replace it but it is its own unique thing and other than the not so great keyboard I do like everything else about it. the A6 sounds incredible but I do get lost trying to get into the programming side of it.
Monster machine. Great video.
I had one of these for a couple of years. The first had to be returned with a failed display on arrival. The second was OK for a few months before the display started to go wrong - pixels stuck on or off. I put up with it and eventually replaced the display and sold it. Oddly, it's never been a synth I've missed. Despite having a lot of controls, I found there was still a lot of menu diving to do and a sense that the main processor was right at it's limit trying to hold it all together. I'd buy back my Jupiter 6 in a heart beat but not one of these.
I never liked the menu diving either. But I had to do it that way because of the number of features and the size of the display. I still have the one I developed the software on. Still runs. It is a pre-production unit, the main one used to develop the software.
I did this with the knobs off only. Fixed most of them actually. There one or 2 still wonky but the A6 is that that great of a synth, its epic! But not something I use any more.
Same here I never use mine. It stays in its flight case and never gets used.
@@markusfuller why do you think it is just to complicated to program? My Juno 60 gets tone in seconds.
You know what? I sometimes even use WD40 for such things. Not on micro-electronics, mind you, but I have had very good results with pots and chunky old organ switches. It works surprisingly well on older stuff with worn out contacts. It then seems to have just enough conductivity to save one from a replacement job and the effect is also a lasting one. I for instance also put it on an unobtainable double volume pot assembly in a HIFI amplifier and it has been working for years since it. Before the cure it was awfull! That saved me the investment in a new amp. Again though: I only use it if the circumstances merit it. :-)
Curious--do you mean you spray the WD40 on the pot itself and forgo taking the whole beast apart? Or you do this whole procedure and use WD40 instead of the Deoxit F5? Because I'm terrified of taking the whole thing apart!
@@CarlSolovox NOOOO! I wouldn't use it from the outside without disassembly. Do not interpret this as me selling some sort of fix it all wonder oil. Like already metioned: Only use thsi when the circumstances specificly merits it so with big parts and very locally applied. I would even advise agaist using Deoxit type products without disassembly since you might actually burry the crud even deeper within the mechanism. Only do that sort of stuff if you are totally sure no micro electronics are near. So MAYBE on a simple expression / pitch bend wheel assembly after confirming it's isolation by looking at the exploded view in a service manual. Furtemore faders, espexcially motorised ones, might contain rubber parts that are not resistent to such fluids. For instance. For my VS2480 audio workstation Roland very clealry states that the faders should only be cleaned maunually without any fluids. And so I still opened it up in spite of the faders seeming to be rather accesible from the outside. And in deed: On the inside I found all sorts of wheels and belts.
@@marcbrasse747 Thanks for the clarification!
I have exactly the same issue with my A6...Thank you for the video
I think a few a6’s must have this problem by now. well worth trying to save them, I am amazed with the sounds you can get from it.
I think most of owners have the pot issue with the display. Besides the common voices will not tune or voices are not amplified properly. Sound A+. Reliability D .
great video, even though the youtube ads are obnoxious.
Nice 👍 video repair and to listen to ur music!!
Thank you Miguel
Great repair and choon 👍
Your videos are full of great info. Going thru all the pots on a machine this size is a long job. At least you get to have a bit of fun before it goes back home. I've seen you add CV connections to Moogs and it would be awesome if one day you could show that Prophet 5 filter Rev-1 mod I have been reading about. They say it's easy enough to install yourself, but the PDF looks more like a pro tech should do the job ;)
Hi Dennis. I don't know about the Prophet 5 filter rev-1 mod. I will go and have a look and see what that is.thanks for letting me know best wishes
@@markusfuller The mod I referred to is this one.
www.analoguerenaissance.com/rev-1/
Of course, you'll need a Prophet 5 Rev 3 to do the mod on ;) That is a different problem to have.
Great stuff, bought a can I have a NAD amplifier project and seen Jordan Pier using deoxit
How many new synths!!! Enjoy them!!!
I do enjoy them all but always struggle to get free time to use them.
Looks like this video solved the problem, but thought I'd add other troubleshooting thoughts from Michael Caloroso's (A6 developer) page: ""Self edit" bug. The root cause is oxidizing contacts on the ribbon connectors for the front panel boards. The oxidization wreaks havoc on the voltages from the knobs, and the OS thinks that a user is manipulating a control. THAT'S what causes the "self edit". I had similar issues with other synths. The problem can be fixed by re-seating the ribbon cable connectors (WARNING make SURE the connectors are NOT offset from the header pins - I did that once and blew the FX ASIC). But the connectors oxidize again over time; I had to re-seat the connectors every 2-3 years."
I had a synth where I actually fixed an issue by taking the ribbon off that connect to a voice amplifier VCA card. Sprayed it with contact cleaner and reseated the ribbon and fixed the issue. So it may be two fold. The pots and a Ribbon problem at times.
@@BakerSynth Great, thanks for adding to the info. Very helpful to know.
This is very helpful, I think it might be the cause of my issue..
Like your new videos a lot. Keep up the good work, mate!
Nice song at the end by the way....
Cheers
Daniel, host of Eat and Listen channel
Thank you Daniel.
Great vid Markus, but you forgot to replace the LCD's dead EL backlight while you were in there. I haven't seen an Andromeda with one still working.
Mine seems to be working just fine for the moment.
unfortunately the problem will come back and it wont take too long, in less then an year very possibly, its a pity cause otherwise this is most probably the best poly synth ever made!!!
This is the most helpful video I have ever seen on this synth. Thank you!!!!!! Are you available for hire to work on mine?
Hi Tony. I am really sorry but I do not take work on now since i retired. I only make these videos to try and share a little info. sorry about that.
@@markusfuller That's a shame. I've had mine since new, the encoders are still OK on mine, but some of the buttons have become less responsive over time. It's also stopped reading the memory card. It really needs a service.
@@bc_uk Dumb question, did the SRAM memory card battery die? My memory card still works fine fortunately. As far as repair, if you can find a tech and any parts needed for repair, let the rest of us A6 owners know. I would do anything for a 100% functioning A6. My A6 that is.
@@BakerSynth No, I bought two brand new cards last year with new batteries, and my A6 won't read either.
@@bc_uk Sorry to hear that it is definitely the card reader. I am tempted to at least clean it with compressed air. But if it is still working for me I probably will not mess with it. I feel that having a RAM card gives me a lot more storage I really use.
cracking vid Grommit
"Hot snot", lol.
Awesome music at the end.
I used something similar to fix a XioSynth a couple of years back. Servisol I think it was, not cheap, but it worked. I originally bought the stuff to clean up my Korg Delta.
I still have a can of servisol. I think i have had it over 10 years and it's very good.
Thank you for a great video you solved my problem .
Thank you :-)
Bonus likes for the end performance.
Great !
I followed this step by step and have had fairly good success with the pots response in comparison to before, but... the pots feel a lot looser and less lovely resistance when turning. Any recommendations on getting them closer to before after spraying with f5?
That is a funny design, using one PCM54 Audio DAC to control the pitch of 8 oscillators (4 voices * 2 osciallators). The OPAMP circuit behind the DAC uses an OPA2134, so it looks like an audio amp, but the second stage that adds an offset voltage tells that it isn't. And since they are just fed manually by the host CPU data bus by writing to an 16 bit latch, it doesn't look like there is any audio data going through that path. There must be a demultiplexer (like CD4051) plus hold circuit in each of the ASO ASICs, and I would bet that these 8 pcs 390pF capacitors connected to C1.1 to C2.4 are the control voltage hold capacitors for that.
Hi Chip Guy. There is another board under the board with the PCM54's that has the multiple outputs on filter in etc and a lot of components on that but I did not want to take too much apart unless i created new problems. It would be interesting to know what is on that board. maybe someone has pictured it on google somewhere.
@@markusfuller If I am not mistaken the board underneath is mostly empty and only littered with small islands of OPAMP driver circuits for the individual outputs and stuff. Interestingly with rather low end opamps TL082.
Chip Guy oh I did not get to have a good look. I just viewed from the edge and saw a few things under there. glad i never took that top board off now as it would have been disappointing.
@Chip Guy
All S/H are inside the ASIC's and there are a mountain of them so they needed several
PCM54's to be able to mux all the voltages out as the internal S/H cap on the chip is small.
The caps you see are VCO/VCAVCF caps. Each ASO chip requires 40 S/H caps and each
ASF requires 22 S/H caps.
Amazing work. Did you re-seat the ribbon cables back with glue, and which type of glue did you use? Thanks
Hi I am very sorry for the late reply. I did not use any glue to reseat the ribbon cable but you are correct that I should have. maybe a hot glue gun would have been the best way. best wishes
DeOxit is an essential tool if you own any old audio kit. Perhaps it's not as popular in the UK as it is here in North America? Every tech I know here swears by it.
My experience repairing laptop computers is that missing screws can be a significant part of strange electrical behavior, especially the keyboard and trackpad, so when you initially started counting missing screws I thought, there is your problem lady😅
Coincidently yesterday I had to clean the port of a scart cable. For once I carefully read what I needed (what I thought was contact cleaner turned out to be LW, to be used after the contact cleaner), and I was warned not to use anything lubricant (like WD-40, which was in the house) for that would be fatty. So I used the alcohol. Now I'm a bit surprised something can clean contacts (uncovers them from oxidation and dirt) as well as lubricate (covers them). But hey, I know hardly nothing about these things. Learning every day. Maybe you can explain?
WD-40 is not exactly a lubricant. It is a Water Displacement as in WD and it was the 40th version made by the company that designed it. also used for helping Ice to fall away from the sides of rockets on the launchpad.
Thank you for your answer. The confusing started with the fact that the brand of my (supposed) contact spray (as it is called here) is Kontakt, but my can of WL (Washing Liquid?) is supposed to be used after using the 'real' cleaner (Kontakt 60) to remove the residu. Since suddenly my TV broke down I was in a hurry, and first instance showed many people cheering the WD-40 (interesting story), which was in the house, but then more technical forums brought up this discussion (WD-40 would rather be an isolator in the end). My comment was triggered even more by the fact that WD-40 has a 'specialized' product line, containing a dedicated contact spray in a can in a very similar color scheme as the product you used.
Interesting video and synth like always. I dont believe in these sprays. They claim to remove dirt and stuff but where does it go? It stays in the pot and the problem will appear again later. Opening pots and cleaning them with isopropanol is a pain but its worth it.
I would love to have opened all the pots and cleaned them properly but they have to be unsoldered taken apart cleaned and soldered back and there are far too many pots on this synth to do that. It would be easier to buy new pots and solder them in. if there were less I may have dismantled and cleaned properly.
nice song men
Why does this Andromeda look better than the Blue and silver ones. Is this a custom case? Looks great and more mature.
Great video as usual. The deoxIT seems really good, just wondering if it's better than the RS stuff i'm currently using, which is pretty good, but DeoxIT gets stellar feedback so maybe it's worth it
How is your Andromeda holding up after the service you performed?
Good work Markus. The music at the end reminded me of David Chazam. Are you a fan of his?
Im sorry to say I do not know of David Chazam but I will certainly go and check him out. thank you.
@@markusfuller He did an album with the late great
Jean-Jacques Perrey
@@cyb3rk3v I have been and watched a few. very interesting and I know some of Jean-Jacques Perrey . excellent
would regular $8 contact cleaner have done the job just as well?
Hi Marcus. I enjoy watching you open up keyboards so I can see inside them. Back in the 80’s, I bought a Wersi MK II synth. It came as a kit like a Heathkit sort of thing. It was a lot of fun putting together. Anyways, I have a Roland S50 that was in storage for quite a while. I got it out to use on a project. When I turned it on, the display was blank. Other than that, the keyboard functioned normally. After it was on for awhile, the display slowly came on. As I used it more and more, the display would start to work normally. I had it put away for about a year and got it back out. The display went back to being blank when the keyboard was turned on. I thought it might be a capacitor going bad, but I don’t see any in the circuit. Hoping you might have any suggestions. Thanks Marcus.
Hello John. that is a strange problem. It does sound like a capacitor problem but maybe the power supply is not giving the display enough power to light it up. you can connect an outboard display to these machines. maybe one of those small 8 or 10” colour screens would help and it will display far more things than the 2 line display.
@@markusfuller Hi Marcus. Thanks for the input. I have connected it to a Commodore NC1701 monitor and seen more info on it. I could remove the display from the keyboard and test it by connecting it to an Arduino. Also when I fired it up the first time after having it in storage, I got a popping sound when it booted up. I found that there is a relay that connects the sound output signal to the output jacks . I removed the relay and jumpered the connections directly which eliminated the problem. Not sure why the relay is necessary as long as you have the volume on the keyboard and the amp turned down which is what you should do with anything connected to an amp. Would like to see more videos of keyboard repairs. Great stuff Marcus.
TinkeringJohn Hi John, it would be good if you can connect the display up on an arduino for testing. i would not know where to start as I am far behind on arduino and still learning the programming. it took me weeks to make my robotic camera slider but more time to program than assembling the entire project. i must get back into it.
@@markusfuller Hey Marcus. I started getting into Arduino's when I built a kit to make an 8X8X8 LED cube. It came with an Arduino Uno board. I played around with the program to make my own animations on the cube. A good start would be to get an Elegoo Starter Kit for Arduino. I have both the Uno and Mega 2560 kits. I bought 3 plastic skulls with movable jaws, 3d printed some servo brackets so they move the heads left and right and open and close the mouths. I also installed LED's in the eyes. I recorded some voices saying Halloween stuff with the S50. I wrote a program for the Arduino and used a remote control to make them say things. When I pushed a button, the Arduino sent a midi message to the S50 to play one of the sayings I recorded. The mouths move by sampling the amplitude of the audio signal going to the amp. The eyes would light up on the skull that's speaking and the other 2 skulls would turn to face the speaking skull. I just started playing with the Raspberry Pi. I bought a Freenove robot dog kit that uses one.
Forgive my ignorance 🙏🏻Ive never understood the out put for single voices. Can you explain the point and the reason you would want to?
Hi Mark, If all the voices can be recorded seperately then you could try different mix downs to see what sounds best in a final recording. I personally only ever record the stereo output.