Check out these videos . Maybe they will help you to diagnose the problem. ua-cam.com/video/Sqg33Mz1308/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/oka0WrKLiVc/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/UxqJ_EP8f8o/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/UxqJ_EP8f8o/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/5zZZWd--duE/v-deo.html
AAH FOR THAT ONE I THINK THE YOUR PROBLEM IS ON THE STARTER SELONOID. EITHER YOUR SELONOID CABLE IS DISCONNECTED OR THE SELONOID ITSELF IS WORN. FOR YOU TO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IS THE PROBLEM LET SOMEONE GO TO START YOUR CAR AND YOU YOUSELF BE INFRONT BONNET OPEN. WHEN HE TRIES TO START LISTEN CAREFULLY FOR A CLICK SOUND FROM THE STARTER IF IT IS NOT THER THEN I CAN ASSURE YOU THAT THE CABLE IS DISCONNECTED OR YOU HAVE TO CHANE THE SELONOID
@@m.b.smoshitoa8325 Well i have a 2001 honda accord. I change the gasket for the Vtec solenoid in suddenly it dont crank or start the car but it turn on lights. I did change the starter but is still the same help?
My car 2002 Honda crv was running fine. Stopped at store and killed it and it won't start again. It will turn over till the battery dies but it won't start. Put alternator and fuel pump on it but it still won't start. Please help me and thank you.
Good trouble shooting, and good instincts. Thanks for keeping us all in the know. Also, this is why my brother keeps his 1974 going, and refuses to let it retire.
Hi Jim, I'm a believer now. My 2006 Ford 500 cranked but wouldn't start for two weeks. Spark and fuel pressure at the injector rail all checked good so I gave this a try and presto. She started right up today. Happy camper. I was planning for an expensive towing and shop bill. Thanks for sharing this.
Excellent video, just spent 28K on a new VW because my immaculate 2004 Taurus DOHC Duratec had that exact same issue. literally scrapped an 83,000 mile mint condition car over this after replacing everything from fuel pump relay to crank trigger, to coil packs. Again, great video
Thanks for your insights. i had a problem like this with my 1999 Mercury Sable. I opened the hood and found the coolant temperature sensor. But while I was down there I did the wiggle test of the wires. Lo and behold, the car started!
I had this exact problem and replaced 2 different sensors before seeing this video! Thank you so so much for posting it, I thought I was going to have to junk my car!
I remember how it was before those sensors were put on cars. The cars worked just fine. I was told that those sensors were to detect expensive problems before they happen; but the sensors themselves can be even more expensive problems then the problems they are suppose to detect. I would love to see us back to the days when things were simple not so expensive.
I finally watched this video after several years. I'm not a mechanic head or inclined but I'm glad to know that even stuff today still surprises the old experienced heads.
My 2007 Ford Taurus SEL has been doing the exact same thing: cranks but won’t catch. But it only happens sometimes, not every time. Auto repair shop is unable to find the source of this problem, even with their best mechanic and the diagnostic computer. This issue has now moved to the URGENT category since I was almost stranded at the grocery store last night. Cranked and cranked 7 times with a long pause in between attempts so as to not run the battery down. The 8th time it finally caught and started. I am going to buy the part and, if I get brave enough, I might even do the work myself. (Maybe.) Thank you so very much for posting this! I will let you know how it goes.
The reason is the intake air flow sensor also reads temps and the discrepancy in the airflow sensor and engine temp sensor trips a no start situation so there will not be a misfire / backfire from timing / fuel program for cold temp causing it to possibly backfire a backfire with excess fuel = bad idea so the system said no fire / spark because it is way outside of specs. This is done this way on alot of dual overhead cammed engines with timing belts because a hard backfire will literally snap the timing belts and possibly cause valves to hit pistons aka possibly ruining a engine.
I believe you are right Rick. I had a similar problem with a '91 Dodge Shelby Daytona Turbo. Ancient by todays standards, but they used the same logic to prevent bad things from happening.
check for spark then check for fuel easy way to check for spark is use a sparkplug and sparkplug wire and ground it the exhaust manifold and look for a arc / spark if there is none likely have a crank sensor issue or ignition control module is bad and if have spark check for fuel if have fuel make sure is proper fuel pressure around 45psi is minimum for a 2002 suburban preferred around 50-55 psi.
jimthecarguy hi Jim all the best from Australian auto club yeah we have all kinds of sensor faults stopping engines from running from crank angle sensors and fuel pump failures to module faults and speed limiter faults I guess that's why we have to keep our training up to scratch cause every new model brings different problems. keep up the good work mate
Yup it does, I check out Repairpal.com now, I lookup cost on fixing things myself, I've saved about $7,900 so far on this Ford on repairs, my cost, about $5,500 and that's with a new Reman engine with 3 years or 36,000 miles, which ever came 1st, ordered threw work. Brakes on all 4 corners cost new with top parts, PLATINUM CERAMIC WEAVER BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS, replaced 2 calipers, 1 in FRONT, then a year later, the rear got stuck, cost me $267 for all, threw that place, just rotors and pads would of cost $1,500 on my SUV, that's front and rears now. Minus the 2 CALIPERS plus must bleed them to. Total cost is all TOGETHER closer to $2,000 now, that's and $1780 TOTAL, I'M DISABLED SO THAT'S A DAM A LOT OF MONEY TO ME FOR BRAKES DONE RIGHT. I DID THEM IN ABOUT 7 HOURS TAKING MY SWEET TIME, ALSO REPLACED REAR SWAY BAR LINKS THAT'S MADE BY MOOG FROM ROCKAUTO, COST $11.25 I THINK, STORES NEAR ME WAS $23.00 FOR THE CHEAPEST ONE AND THAT'S JUST 1 SIDE ONLY. IT COST ME THAT FOR 2 OF THEM WITH FREE SHIPPING, DOESN'T HAPPEN OFTEN FROM ROCKAUTO. THOSE COST FROM $94 TO $163 TO INSTALL THESE PER A PAIR. THAT'S CRAZY. DID THEM WHEN REPLACING BRAKES AND 1 REAR CALIPER TOO. PLUS BLEED THE BRAKES, 1ST TIME MY SON HELPED ME EVER, NOW HE WANTS TO LEARN MORE TO FLIP CARS TO MAKE ENOUGH SO HE CAN BUY HIS DREAM CAR, CAN SELL 5 CARS A YEAR EACH FREE OF TAXES. They don't make cars like before i said, to many computers so we can be burned pretty fast.
Than you for the video. A friend is thanking you more, he had this problem back in 2012 with his 2004 Taurus. Long story short, his responded the same as you described. He had his towed to the local dealer who had the car for 3 days. They called for him to come pick up his car and gave him a bill for $1200. It was all diagnostic and $240 for the sensor. They will be returning to court shortly. You may be approached to clarify your findings.
Jim the Car Guy!!..God bless you and many thanks, that was it!! my 04 3.0l v6 ohv sea did the same thing!..checking the tach this see crank turning worked. my sensor was in the inlet housing I actually cleaned and polished it and it worked!! started right up!!...I ordered a new one, when it arrived it goes right in. thank you again
PRS - Wish I Hade Found This Sooner!!! 2019 This should be the number one video on UA-cam for No Start vehicles. I have a 1995 5.8 Automatic Bronco. During the past two years I have look at hundreds of videos on for my no start situation which is the same as the person who posted this video and the many people who saw it even though I did not see it. Over the past two years I have replaced every sensor on my 95 Bronco under the hood including the water temp sensor. When the water temp sensor was replaced a couple of other sensors were also replaced and the vehicle started and ran for a couple of weeks. I did not know it was likely that sensor that got it running. Over the past 9 months I finished replacing everything I thought might be a problem. Finally I took it to a repair shop and after checking the Bronco they advised it was not getting fuel and needed a fuel pump. I had previously done test on the pump and new it was not only working but that it was also flooding the engine at times. The shop called me again and stated the new fuel pump was now suppling fuel but they needed to install another new WATER Temp sensor and another fuel control part. Later that day the shop called me and stated the vehicle was running and I could pick it up. It only cost me a little over $1500 for what I now believe was just a bad water temp sensor. Judging by the number of comments on this video, I think UA-cam should highlight this video on every NO START video as a serious and inexpensive possible fix.
I bet they never replaced the fuel pump, they knew what it was with computer, best to look online to see if a traveling mechanic with top notch Snapon computer to check for 1/3 if the price. I hate using craigslist but there's some great MECHANICS that drive to you and check things for minimum fee provided how far they may be. Me, WELL i live in a small STATE, takes an hour to CROSS it, but i boarder another state, people can CHARGE only $40 if close to you if your doing work. But if more wrong, he gives quotes on paper with you getting parts or them getting them. Best if they get on certain parts. Other parts with core charges, ask if there charging for core CHARGE, if so, then ask if you can get that and always ask what store does he use, he may give his name to use and save you MONEY, make sure you pay any and all taxes now. Have a FRIEND that has a few accounts, I DON'T have mine since our GARAGE closed in April 2st of 1994, PEOPLE thought I was pulling a JOKE, I knew all my CUSTOMERS and it was a shock to me and others that work there, 4 year remodeling jib that took tearing it down and building a new Exxon without the 3 bays. Wished I knew, could of taken old machine's that I used to fix tires for CUSTOMERS and gave 50% to my boss, at 1st he was pissed, I said I can't use this but I can fix flats but it never happened, charged $15 with balancing it. THEY sat for 5 year's, kept asking to open it BECAUSE one guy drove 22 miles to spin wrenches, I had 4 great MECHANICS that wanted to work as a sub contractor. So just renting lift bay out and you get a cut of every job with a slip for records if wanted, boss said nope. Not EVEN our cars at all. Sucked working off GROUND, got fired 6 times for working on my car or FRIENDS coming to my work after they got out of theres around 11:00 to 11:30 p.m. i CLOSED AT MIDNIGHT, they SCARED the old LADIES AWAY he said, I said they kept me from getting robbed like what HAPPENED before i started working there, a guy shot in knee a year before me, i started at 15 years old. Back then, NO LAWS ON WORKING ON THINGS, JUST NOT PAST MIDNIGHT ON A SCHOOL NIGHT. I GOT OUT ABOUT 12:10 A.M. after counting draw and making final drop and locking up paperwork in OFFICE. Had fun there. LOTS of fun.
I have a 2007 Escape that seems like it is a timing issue. But it is flooding the cylinders with the crank no start. I will try this thank you. I HAVE ALSO LOOKED AT EVERY VIDEO ON you tube for about three months.
Jim, This is super common, as Temp Sensors usually fail by breaking "OPEN". Electrically, the computer's pull-up resistor pulls up against air, instead of a temperature-sensitive resistor (the sensor). The problem is that the Twenty-Something Software Engineers at FORD programmed the Fuel Injection Map to starve the engine, because a broken sensor reads like a very HOT one. Firing them all might actually cure these problems... I just carry a spare one in my glove box and plug the connector into it, laying it on the engine somewhere. The truck starts right up. The modern PLASTIC sensors shear in half when you try to remove them, so ALWAYS use the Brass ones. 1995 F-150 4.9l standard trans. CHEERS, and good video! Hap PS: Volvos have the same problem! Find me a truck that can recover from such a simple (and common) parts failure, and I will dump the Fords and buy one!
Thanks for heads up if that works on 2003 Ford Explorer 4.6L AWD now, if they break easy, then I'll buy one and plug in and it starts up ? If so then I'll do that until I can get inside to work on it, almost sounds like no FUEL or timing chain because engine TURNING over faster than normal it sounds like. Only 72K on Reman engine that's taking care of.
@@davidtrautman6482 Do you even read what you write? If coolant temp is low and engine temp is low of coarse it will start. If coolant and engine temp are too far apart there are no parameters for correct air to fuel ratio.
The first time I ran into this issue, I was at a Ford dealership. I wasted a few hours before contacting Ford's tech line. The engineer I got knew exactly what to check first. He said the coolant temp sensor circuit fuzzes out the reference voltage in ECU and it can cause issues with no starts, no cranks, and stalling. He had me load test the wires between the sensor and the ECU. If the wires were good to replace the sensor and if the wires are bad to repair them and replace the sensor anyway.
The sensor could have been shorted to ground internally, pulling vref below 5v. When that happens, the micro controller (PCM) loses reference for all the other sensors since vref is a common circuit. No telling what kind of weirdness can happen in that case. For those that don't know: VREF is the +5v signal supplied to all sensors in a vehicle. The sensor will return a signal that ranges from 0v to VREF, and the PCM translates that into engineering units (voltage, temperature, etc.). If VREF is below 5v, some sensors will not work, or return incorrect voltage for what is physically going on.
Because of your mentioning about the Crank Position Sensor and it's affect on the tach (which mine wasn't moving). I was able to find the sensor (which was cracked/broken) replaced it and the car started right up. $36 job !!! Thank the Lord
That's exactly what I've always wanted... a car that will leave me stranded because it doesn't know the coolant temperature. It should have started in open loop, then thrown a code and a check engine light, but nooOOOOOoooo.
@@jimthecarguy @Jimthecarguy this is happening in my 92 mazda navajo / ford explorer. Online obd 1 diagnostics say to ignore faulty ect sensor code since it's got to be within normal operating temp to their good codes, replacing everything else I went back to this sensor, heated it up on my desk with Cooper wire plus solder iron, resistance reads true.. purchase new ect sensor and resistance reads true. I might revisit the problem and see if I am not getting continuous current.. my only guess
I was thinking much the same, 4.65 is very close to the 5 volt supply . The sensor it self showed signs of corrosion , acidic coolant will generate voltage like a battery , but not as much as 5 volts.
I have also seen the sensor common voltage shorted to an auxiliary wire via rubbing and sensors internally shorted. Throwing off other sensors that use same supply and grounding. Look at a wiring diagram and you will probably see common used 5volt wire for temp and other sensors. If you still have car there, plug sensor back in and look at other sensor data. You would probably see something else also off.
I agree with you Steve. I have a Jeep grand Cherokee that would not start. I was having reference voltage problems. I unplugged the tps and it started up. shorted reference circuit shut pcm down.
Two pin sensors are isolated from the reference voltage so that shorting it should have no effect on the reference. If they were actually connected directly, the sensor output would always read 5V, so what purpose would it serve? It's supposed to be just part of a voltage divider, and whether it's open circuit or shorted, it should only affect that one signal and not the reference. Unless it's a really bad design-
My girlfriend has an Audi from 2007 and in winter we had problems starting the car. When it was really cold outside we couldn’t start it so easy, we needed a minute or two cranking. All this time the until the light came on, I went for a scan in summer and they said everything was as it should. I went one more time in winter and guess what was giving bad reading…😕😕 I had the sensor replaced, no problem since then. Great video!
The ECT sensor is used as a load sensor and therefore plays A role in controlling the volume of fuel. This is necessary to start a cold engine. A faulty read as you had will cause the PCM to flood the engine. If it was cold outside the engine would have probably started . Thanks for sharing.
I’m thinking that he probably did have spark and didn’t realize it. As a master technician, I know that there is no correlation between the etc sensor and spark with this situation.
Not so Stephen. Yes, a fat/rich mixture cools combustion chambers down, but I know of no systems that fatten of the a/f mix to cool it down when in a hot or overheating condition. I could be wrong though. If so who is the manufacturer that has this design? You are speaking of autos/ trucks, correct?
When the sensor reaches 4.0 volts. The ECM is told no coolant present Is why. As the sensor works by fluid conversion. Not just sensing temperature. It has to be immersed coolant and sense it.
@john simmons Listen idiot. Fords are designed to not start or go into limp mode. If the engine overheats. If the Senors is bad,. It thinks the engine is overheating. Why it has two sensors.. One to monitor head temp. One to monitor coolant temp... If the head sensor fails. It turns off the AC compressor and goes into limp mode. If the coolant temp fails. The engine will not start once you turn it off. It does it too protect the engine. As Ford doesn't like warranting engines. Now get in education in how things work and why.. Thank You
A 99 Ford Explorer would crank but not start. Relay was good. Had it towed in to be checked. Mechanic said the problem was that the thermostat was going bad. When my daughter called to tell me (it's her car now), I told her that a thermostat can't be the problem. Perhaps the problem was the same thing you ran into here. Anyway, it's running fine and all is well. Live and learn. Thanks for your video.
Thank you for this video. I have a coolant temperature sensor code and my car wont start. I ignore the code because I did not think that would make the car not start. I got cam sensors and it still wont start
Hey what do you mean the alternator. my car won't start cause the battery keeps running dead and I just changed the alternator but no spark and its a brand new battery
I just had the same problem with a 89 chevy silverado 1500. It would die when it got warm and wouldn't start tell it was cold again. It would just crank, no start. Never heard of temp sensor causing a no start tell the other day. All I did was unplug the sensor and jump the 2 wires together in wire harness and truck started right up and runs and idles better then it ever has. Crazy. Great video.
Cars today are far too complicated, simple things like this can stop an engine working, Imagine if you are in the middle of no where and a sensor costing a few £'s can leave you stranded.
***** I have a 1975 Olds Cutlass I'm restoring - the only electronics I'm gonna have is the HEI distributor (bullet-proof) and the stereo. Electronics have no place in cars.
***** Considering a car is comprised of hundreds if not thousands of low cost parts it's usually the case that a low cost part breaks and leaves you stranded. When people's wheel falls off the car how much do you think the axle nut that came loose/off cost?
Randy Condran If you believe electronics have no place in cars then you need to swap the hei with points and condensor and axe the radio otherwise your being hypocritical.
Helps the computer decide the fuel/air ratio to get the engine warmed up. It was probably dumping so much fuel that the mixture wouldn't fire since the air isn't as dense as cold air.
+Charles Scott My thoughts exactly. If anything, the engine should start but run rich, since the ECM would be delivering the fuel it was programmed to at the temperature it thought the engine was at. I wonder how many Tore-asses won't start every winter when the temps drop into the teens??? TIL: Don't buy a Ford if you have to go to work in the winter. LOLz
Andy Hicks With my limited time with Ford cars, if the sensor fails, the computer sees it as -40F/C so it will certainly run VERY rich (it actually can not see below -40, even with a working sensor). But a no spark condition... No way a temp sensor can cause that unless the ECM decides, "oh hey, no voltage here? lets not send voltage elsewhere and confuse the mechanic by giving a false no-spark". That aside, my issues with the video, he said it would start, but drop into gear and it would die and not start back. He also stated no spark condition. Sorry, but a no spark condition means the car never would have ran. So yeah, I still stand by, it was trying to run too damned rich for the atmospheric conditions. And we are getting to the point now with cars where just a drop too much or too little going into the cylinder will probably cause it to miss, two drops and it may die out. I guess we can thank efficiency requirements.
that happened to my 96 chevy pickup in a burger king drive through, kind of common when the circuit dead shorts, keep that in mind, great video thumbs up
The ECM looks at multiple sensors to start and keep the engine running. coolant temp is one besides crank, cam, TPS, MAF, MAP. the ECM looks at coolant temp sensor to know what the current engine temp is in order to allow engine to run or prevent it from damage. every car veries sligthly but about a range of say -20 - 250°F is the window ECM will fire or run the engine(if all sensors are good) outside that range it shuts of sparks. if a temp sensor is faulty it usually falls out of that range or cause by damage and the ECM doesn't fire the igniter or coils until it receives the correct feed back from that sensor(s). hope this helps.
Tyrone Nelson It might change with time, but the starting circuit and motor are not controlled by the ECM. Cranking the engine provides a wealth of information important to diagnosing it. Sensor info, trouble codes etc. If it cranks but don't start then I have a whole different approach to trouble shooting then if it don't crank. It is rare that cranking an engine would cause any additional damage to it except in the case where the engine already has terminal mechanical issues.
jake - That is a meaningless flim flam explanation. The problem is simply bad ECU software from the factory programmers. Engines routinely are colder than 14F degrees and they start just fine.
Jake V Since computers were installed on engines to help control emissions I was taught that coolant temperature was the primary source allowing closed loop operation. Hence an incorrect/implausible temperature reading will disable the motor until repaired.
The ECT controls fuel delivery during open loop, maybe the extremely low temperature probably caused the computer to spray to much fuel into the combustion chamber.
I'm glad I watched this video. My sensor is bad. Currently it's keeping the cooling fan from running. I haven't changed it because it's winter. And my garage is packed with tools and motercyles. I better put the new one in. Thanks for the video enjoyed.
This is a result of 50 years of EPA and government influence in something that makes your car impossible for the average person to work on. Mankind is its own worst enemy. Have you wondered why new vehicles cost 30 to 50 thousand dollars now? Government restrictions are killing us every day as we work ourselves to the brink just to make ends meet.
Big brother just does not know when to stop , and this spineless society continues to nod its head to the foolishness , while consumers continue to pay stupid prices for garbage .
funny how they just spent millions, with more slated in order to raise the sea wall and walkways in Miami to keep from flooding. Not to mention the multiple category 4 or above hurricanes, otherwise unheard of... you're correct that mankind is it's own enemy: summed up in one word -ignorance!
I just had same problem. After replacing throttle body, fuel pump fuel filter, ect.. I still got same problem. It would fire up when i first try in morning. But the second the engine got warm it would start sounding like it was out of time and it would die. And when trying to restart it would crank but no start. So finally got a code 15 on blinking light on dash. So i unplugged temp sensor and i jumped both wires together on wire harness. Started truck up and truck has never ran and idles as good as it does now. Never heard of a temp sensor telling causing this in my life. But it makes sense. And it was like you said on the chevy the computer tells it to give more fuel which causes it to flood engine. As when I would check new plugs they was wet everytime it would die and not start back up. Good post/comment.
jim grate video and thanks for sharing . I learned something again from watching your video . this is good to know . but i must say this with out your scan tool you probable would not have known what the cause was
Electronic cars are more trouble than what they are worth, technology gone mad. Probably designed to fail after a certain time after the warranty expires to keep the specialised dealership mechanics busy and rich. They don't even want people to have the ability to parallel park their cars anymore so they invent self parking cars, absolute madness.
+Thetrucky69 I don't know about that statement. I wish there was a system like that years ago when my wife blew up my Boss 9 Mustang. She tore a hole in the oil pan running over a concrete park stop. She said she thought red light was for "change oil soon". I said why were you not looking at the gauges as well? She replied " what are the gauges" Well, the Boss 9 and the wife have moved on. I sure miss that car.
I see your point there in that case, warning lights and warning devices are very practical when the person that drives the car knows nothing about engines to know when there is a problem, you must have loved the car then! cheers.
Jimthecarguy, this is P.Dub from Fresno..I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra as this situation seem to have a cured as well..Still I appreciate the helpful video information and will subscribe to your needful video's Thank you sir!....
My friend had a 1999 Ford Taurus that would not start. He had the car towed to a garage and they found nothing wrong. Then to a service station in our area who went right to the problem which was low coolant. The reservoir had coolant in it but the radiator was very low. They added coolant and it fired right up. The mechanic there owned a 99 Taurus and had run into that problem before.
Thank you for this my car hasn't started for 2 months and all idiot so called mechanics couldn't figure it out. Took me 30 min now cars running like new again.. Thank u..
This doesn't sound legitimate. As you can clearly see in this video "idiot mechanics" use very expensive OBD scanning tools to diagnose car problems. But if you still think you're mechanic is an idiot then get a new one.
@@staypositive4358 I believe him, I've seen the dealership charge thousands and not even fix the problem and it turns out to be a 30 dollar sensor the customer could have changed themselves
@@ericg4915 . There is no way a dealership charged anyone thousands of dollars to find out the problem was a sensor. There could have easily been multiple problems. But again, if you have an "idiot" mechanic find a a new one. You can also buy a decent OBD scanner and some tools if your willing to diagnose and fix your own car.
@@staypositive4358 your joking right? Whether it turns out to be a valve, sensor, fuse, ground, wire etc etc I've heard millions of stories and seen just as many where the dealer or mechanic dumps 1, 2, 3 thousand into a car and it turns out to be a little cheap part like a sensor. Literally just yesterday a story of a woman who hard occasional rough start and stored misfire data. Full tune up and injectors was around 2,000. Turned out to be a 40 dollar purge valve flooded the intake with gas vapors cause it was stuck open causing a long crank and a rough start especially after getting gas. Its not about being an idiot, any mechanic can have a bad day or get stumped
Great point. Now theres a guy that unplugged the old and plugs in new one, leaves on engine, STATES PLASTIC ONES BREAKING A LOT, said buy the good ones that's brass temp one. Will look into it.
2000 sierra I changed the coolant temp scensor because the old one melted for some reason,Im guessing loose connection, but as soon as I changed it the truck started 4 or 5 times dying immediately, I searched my problem and your video just happen to be first, and im glad it was thank you for the upload help, I dont have a obd scanner, I was doing a tune up and noticed the wire connection melted, I stuck together and taped it, it ran normal, then I ordered a ACDelco scensor from Amazon and defective I guess, but thanks again, because like most I go to thinking gas, fire, battery weak or loose but even though I just did the coolant scensor i never never would have thought it was the problem.
What is happening here is the coolant temp sensor is shorting out to ground the 5 volt reference circut is shared by mutiple sensors like MAF , coils, map, and many more. So anyhow with the temp sensor shorted it also shorting out everything on that 5 volt reference circut which is why it won't start
Ok so I am needing help bad. I have a 2006 Volkswagen Touareg V8 4.2L. I have a brand new battery. The Volkswagen won't start, but does act as if it wants to turn over, it just doesn't. My instrument panel/ dashboard has ECM light that stays on, as well as engine light, and ABS. When I try to start my car up, it is quite, and doesn't sound different, except that it won't start. It has back fired a couple times, pairiotically. It has a brand new timing belt on it, when I purchased the vehicle. Which also didn't work when I purchased it as well. My question is if it reads something about timing, could it possibly be the camshaft position sensor that could possibly be the reason for the vehicle not to start and possibly read as timing? If not could I possibly get any advice or direction on what I could do to resolve my situation to get it to where it will start up, so I can drive it. Please I'd forever be grateful for any direction, help and advice i may be able to recieve. Thank you
thank you so much, today my ford explorer 2002 xls manual couldn't start in the cold day, so I have ordered new coolant temperature sensor from usa. so I hope that my car will be easily start after changing the sensor ,
This more or less happened to my 2003 Audi A4. The temp sensor was faulty and telling the ECU that the car was already overheated and thus wouldn't allow it to fire. It would crank plenty but not fire. The irony is that it was on one of the coldest days of the winter last year.
iRecordOS I actually can’t recall. The only reason I figured out what was going on is because I had been getting a CEL for the same sensor so knew it was starting to fail.
Hey Jim thanks for the great video and not talking to us like we are all in the 3rd grade. That said I had a 94 taco that if the coolant got low I would get a surge and or rough idle from the engine. The coolant temp sensor was throwing the air fuel mix off, weird for a 94...
I had this same issue on my 2001 Taurus wagon with the 3L 12 valve engine but it wasn't the sensor. The coolant was old and was inducing a small voltage through electrolysis. All I did was a full cooling system flush and everything was fine. The stray voltage that was being created was throwing off the voltage the sensor was reporting. Only reason I actually found out the issue is I had to pull a hose to get at the bottom of the engine. I figured since I had lost so much coolant I may as well do a flush so just topped off with water. That was JUST enough to reduce the electrolysis and allow the sensor to report properly.
I bought a new 1999 Dodge Stratus with the 2.4. Drove it home and the next morning it wouldn't start. Dealer sent a rollback and it started up for him. At the dealer, no codes or anything could be found. They returned the car. The next morning, the same thing. This time the rollback driver couldn't get it started. Dealer found that the high temp sending unit was giving a high temp reading to the computer and shutting off the fuel. Problem fixed!! This happened in less than 50 miles on a new car.
773trucker Cars have thousands of parts. They have a failure rate. It passed operational tests, but failed when it got to you. Just funky luck. That's why the dealer has a repair facility under warranty.
Had a 05 Buick rendevue that would bog down on hills but run OK on level gouund. dealer replaced computer, cut off cat.converter still couldn't find problem. they called Detroit engeneers ,found out a wheel sensor was sending a bad signal to computer telling comp. to limit gas flow to 75%. Dealership wanted me to pay $1600 for them to experiment to find problem. finally settle for half. Still a bad pill to swallow. Buick won't see me back!!!
George Shears i would iffin i was you go out and buy a 1971 ford f-100 and fix it up like new and say seeya to all those sensors and hemroids ect.. yea i know it will cost an extra 2 dollars in gas per month but thats what i would do.
Yeah, except my daily commute alone is 60+ miles so that's like an extra $3-4 in gas per day. Meaning over $100 difference on my monthly gas bill, if I DON'T take any trips.
This is a great video. Watching UA-cam you get to see how the sensors work and communicate with the ECM. More people need to learn the basics so they understand the overall operation of their vehicle.
I've never run into this problem but It would have been helpful if you had pulled an injector (leaving it connected to fuel source) and held a rag over the orifice while cranking to see if fuel was being delivered. (At least for the UA-cam comment section). My thoughts on this is the computer is expecting a certain number of parameters within specific ranges for startup and this ECT sensor was in an open (fail) state (4.9v) which means if Ford engineers had allowed the car to be started/ran then the coolant temperature could not be read by the computer. Coolant temperature is a necessary value the computer needs to monitor so the car does not overheat, if not for other reasons. Kinda like your home computer, where the CPU monitors it's temperature and revolutions of the CPU fan. If the computer starts up and either values are unreadable, some computers will immediately power off or beep. In older computers, it just kept starting up and within 45-60 seconds the CPU fried itself. Edit: I feel the 14 degrees displayed temperature was misleading and should be ignored. What the viewers should have considered instead was the ECT voltage (also displayed on the screen). The voltage gave the clue needed for solving this.
It makes sense, but still not a catastrophic failure mode to prevent engine from operating. No enterely sure how CO2 sensors work since they are preheated on start, but the computer could guess that engine is cold from that side so attemp to run on avg figures and mark flashing check engine light on the dash. Catastrophic failure would be a crank sensor because you can ruin the engine injecting without any clue.
38911bytefree The O2 sensor you mention is not the ECT (or CTS) sensor. Also the computer cannot guess, it only receives sensor values and then makes spark and fuel adjustments based on the data its given. ECT reading is one value the computer uses, combined with other inputs to adjust the fuel mixture. Easy enough for Ford engineers to program the computer to prevent spark to the plugs when all the required sensors are not in the ranges it could expect. Note the new ECT sensor was now reading the proper coolant temperature and the sensor voltage decreased substantially, now the computer had what it wanted and it then provided spark for startup. The video proves it was the fault of the ECT sensor. (Other vehicles may not be programmed in the same way).
Interesting problem. It's probably related to Ford's oil pressure protection. If the oil pressure during cranking is lower than expected, then the ECU shuts off fuel and spark. With the coolant temperature sensor reporting a very cold start, the ECU is expecting a high cold-start oil pressure (due to high oil viscosity). Instead, it's getting a low pressure due to warm oil, and blocking the start. You can get the same issue if you put the wrong grade of oil in. This is worse on some engines, where Ford made a last minute change to the grade, specifying a lower viscosity oil to meet a fuel consumption target or something. If you go a grade thinner again, this may be enough to trip the low-oil pressure safety and the car won't start.
Mikel Bentley.. People understand a "Built-in safety measure" However... They don't want them to inhibit them from driving their cars to an automotive shop for the repair over a sensor failure of a obvious false sensor reading. Do we need onboard sensors to detect and bypass failing (inaccurate) onboard sensors??? The very Best auto techs will tell you... Although a diagnostic system is beneficial. Many are poorly designed and overkill.
The PCM uses the signal of the ECT as a main correction factor when calculating ignition advance and injection duration. The ECT is a high hierarchy sensor at start-up and during warm-up. If the PCM detects an extremely cold engine signal it can over-fuel and drown the engine. In this case, it seems the PCM cut spark and fuel completely because the fuel correction would've been way out of specs. Good example of why it's important to check scan tool data, but in this case I'm sure there was a DTC as well, which would've help pinpoint the problem quicker.
It sounds like it's part of the car, own safety feature's, so the engine doe not get damaged. Just modern technology, with a lot of computers, and software.
No, the sensor is confusing the computer. At low temps the computer Richens the mixture, so its making a flooding condition (In this case). And sensor was sending over 4 volts, new one sent .66 volts, probably confused the computer even more.
depends on the vehicle some dont fire if no fuel pressure, some dont fire if no oil pressure some just wont fire if any of the sensors are faulty, whats really needed are driver capability sensors to tell if a low performance driver behind the wheel of a high performance car that wont allow driving beyond his/her means, and if the cell phone is in use steer it to the curb
Because Ford engineers know that cranking the engine will never overheat it. Allowing it to crank also shows the components and computer values needed to crank the motor are within value and working, so the repair person can concentrate on operational issues even if it doesn't start (Items come to mind, fuel delivery, MAF sensor, Air flow, ECT sensor etc..)
I BELIEVE I HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM A COUPLE YEARS AGO: This drove me absolutely up the wall until I simply decided to change the temp sensor which I too had noted on my scanner reading -18 degrees. After returning car to customer and no further problems I REALLY started pulling my hair out trying to determine how in the F the coolant temp sensor keeps the engine from firing. This is what I came up with: If the coolant temp sensor does not agree with other temp sensors such as intake air temp, the ECU shuts the engine down as protection as it has determined the device is not reading properly and wants to avoid possible engine damage from an overheat condition. For those of you who may want to school me on the difference between readings on the the intake air temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor...........I know so forget it. I have since discussed this in detail with ford engineers who after a week or so of my initial contact came back and confirmed my suspicion. So with me: CASE CLOSED and now I can sleep
I am working on a 1994 taurus wagon 3.0. It will crank and run like a sewing machine until it gets warm, then it shuts off. Have to wait until engine cools before it will crank and run. This is exactly what's wrong. Thank you. I already did everything else. Fuel pressure good, fuel filter replaced New plugs/wires Cleaned MAF Checked crank sensor All fuses good etc etc
If you haven't already replaced the sensor, you should do so. Then disconnect the battery for 10 minutes so it will refresh the computer. Worked on my 1995 f150 4.9ltr
You know your stuff.I have a 96 Dodge Avenger.After changing coil and spark plugs and car started with ruff idle left running when inside for 2 minutes came outside car was off.I tried to restart no success.I watched your video.I purchased a temp sensor online a couple mo ago noticed cool level sometime below c level went driving even on hot days live in FL.I decided to change temp sensor .Car Started Right Up.The computer was stopping car from starting up. Good Diagnostic Bro.I'm having a cold one🌴
Thanks for sharing that. Pretty mental. I think your suggestion might be somewhere near. If its outside the normal temperature parameters, it wont run in order to protect the engine.
All ford vehicles have a no start for the temp sensor lmao my 1988 f150 did that if you hold the gas to the floor it'll crank after a min but it'll try to flood out to keep from starting bc the computer thinks something is wrong lol
Mikel Bentley aye man fast question I have a 1991 ford f150 and it cranks but wont start I already replaced many of things such as plugs n wires which was in bad shape so was definitely needed had little to no spark changed the starter, the ignition coil, the starter solenoid switch, the battery, distributor cap, and a few other things cant remember it'll crank without the gas pedal down just still not getting it to start
Simply put, coolant temp sensor, and intake air temp sensor all correspond with fuel flow. It all depends on the outside temperature and workings of the sensors to send those readings to the computer. Same concept as a choke, when the car is cold, it needs more fuel to start and run, when its warmed up and in closed loop, it requires less fuel to run efficiently. It's Interesting it would completely disable the car from starting though. Great Video, I'm glad you got it fixed. Thank you
All of this electronic crap is tied into the computer and if anything is off it doesn't work. I'm going back to a Fn carburetor and mechanical fuel pump driven by the engine. Keep an extra set of points, condenser and fan belt in the truck, Old is better!
1999 honda crv - back in February 2017 - ect sensor caused it to run in limp mode. would not respond to gas pedal. these inexpensive sensors/plugs/sending units can create large headaches-- luckily they are fairly accessible. Great video
just have a problem with my hyundai matrix 2004 1.6 engine automatic trans GAS,.,.crank engine but wont start,.that it means to me that my camshaft possition sensor is bad and i need to replace a new one found out when i scan it,.so i dit it and buy a new camshaft sensor.then after i put a new camshaft sensor,.happily it start,.and i drive and used my car about 3 days perfectly but on the 4th day morning,.the problem occurs again and it not start again "crank engine wont start,.my point is what is the problem for this car?.and badly my car battery turn dead battery at the same time? please help
The testing to try to crank the car with the defective sensor probably drew the battery down a lot. At that point it needed to be charged on a charger until full voltage (approx. 13.6 v.) was reached. If the battery is not holding voltage, or if your battery is 3 years old or older, replace it. (A new battery is cheaper than having it towed when you are stranded somewhere.) Test for parasitic draw with new battery, and correct any unusual current drains. Finally, check the ground for the camshaft sensor circuit to be sure that wasn't causing the initial problem.
For S&G's, you should have fired it with temp sensor disconnected or ~200 ohm resistor. That would indicate if it was stupid ford programming or loss of reference voltage. We've tied in a key-on 12-5vdc $25 transformer where ref voltage was mysteriously low instead of replacing computer.
I have a 99 Sable 24V DOHC that has the exact problem. I was thinking it either no spark or no fuel. I was thinking my fuel pump died until I watched your video. The only difference is the mine ran fine but after a cool night I got in and it cranked but nothing else. It would not catch or even give any indication that it would ever start. Thanks for your video. I hate putting money into a car that is at the end of its life. When it runs it runs like a new one thus my hesitation to trade. I didn't have a fuel smell like it was dumping raw fuel into the cylinders.
Yeah. This just proves why I want to restore my 89 and also find another vehicle from in the 60 range. I just saw a video about changing the timing chains on a 2010 GMC Canyon and thought. Screw that noise. My 89 was harder than my 73 I used to have, but still way easier than the 2010.
I am most definitely going to check this out. I did notice my AC wasn't getting cold and when I went to put Arctic Freeze in, it wouldn't take at all. So, maybe this is in fact the problem. Thank you! I will check back in or try. Lol
Fuel trim and spark advance are different at different engine and ambient temp ranges. If the temp sensor tells the computer that it is hot when it's cold, or cold when it is hot, the fuel trim and spark advance will be incorrect for conditions causing a crank, but no start situation or severe random misfire similar to jumped timing or being 180° out.
Mine did this same exact thing, I have a 2000 Ford Taurus duratec. It would stall in the idle and at lights and refuse to start. As soon as the ECT sensor was removed it would start normally. I got a guy in red bluff ca to find it for me from Bob's tires. And in forever grateful Although I'm back at the same issue after doing an oil change cranks but won't start.
What if the car wont start no crank...but it turn on.
Check out these videos . Maybe they will help you to diagnose the problem.
ua-cam.com/video/Sqg33Mz1308/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/oka0WrKLiVc/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/UxqJ_EP8f8o/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/UxqJ_EP8f8o/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/5zZZWd--duE/v-deo.html
AAH FOR THAT ONE I THINK THE YOUR PROBLEM IS ON THE STARTER SELONOID. EITHER YOUR SELONOID CABLE IS DISCONNECTED OR THE SELONOID ITSELF IS WORN. FOR YOU TO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IS THE PROBLEM LET SOMEONE GO TO START YOUR CAR AND YOU YOUSELF BE INFRONT BONNET OPEN. WHEN HE TRIES TO START LISTEN CAREFULLY FOR A CLICK SOUND FROM THE STARTER IF IT IS NOT THER THEN I CAN ASSURE YOU THAT THE CABLE IS DISCONNECTED OR YOU HAVE TO CHANE THE SELONOID
@@m.b.smoshitoa8325 Well i have a 2001 honda accord. I change the gasket for the Vtec solenoid in suddenly it dont crank or start the car but it turn on lights. I did change the starter but is still the same help?
Maybe a safety switch on the trans.
My car 2002 Honda crv was running fine. Stopped at store and killed it and it won't start again. It will turn over till the battery dies but it won't start. Put alternator and fuel pump on it but it still won't start. Please help me and thank you.
I respect mechanics they are so valuable so important they know so much and they work so hard
I wish more people would show kust a portion of your appreciation!!!
Good trouble shooting, and good instincts. Thanks for keeping us all in the know. Also, this is why my brother keeps his 1974 going, and refuses to let it retire.
Hi Jim, I'm a believer now. My 2006 Ford 500 cranked but wouldn't start for two weeks. Spark and fuel pressure at the injector rail all checked good so I gave this a try and presto. She started right up today. Happy camper. I was planning for an expensive towing and shop bill. Thanks for sharing this.
Excellent video, just spent 28K on a new VW because my immaculate 2004 Taurus DOHC Duratec had that exact same issue. literally scrapped an 83,000 mile mint condition car over this after replacing everything from fuel pump relay to crank trigger, to coil packs. Again, great video
Thanks for your insights. i had a problem like this with my 1999 Mercury Sable. I opened the hood and found the coolant temperature sensor. But while I was down there I did the wiggle test of the wires. Lo and behold, the car started!
Glad it helped
I had this exact problem and replaced 2 different sensors before seeing this video! Thank you so so much for posting it, I thought I was going to have to junk my car!
Thank you, that is the same exact problem we are having. We changed every part on our Ford Taurus and had no clue what else to do. Thanks.
I remember how it was before those sensors were put on cars. The cars worked just fine. I was told that those sensors were to detect expensive problems before they happen; but the sensors themselves can be even more expensive problems then the problems they are suppose to detect. I would love to see us back to the days when things were simple not so expensive.
I finally watched this video after several years. I'm not a mechanic head or inclined but I'm glad to know that even stuff today still surprises the old experienced heads.
Incredible...I've got an 02 Duratec and will certainly keep this very interesting diagnosis up in my memory bank. Thanks!!
To confirm, put the old one back in and see whether the issue reoccurs.
The problem was confirmed when the old sensor was replaced.
My 2007 Ford Taurus SEL has been doing the exact same thing: cranks but won’t catch. But it only happens sometimes, not every time. Auto repair shop is unable to find the source of this problem, even with their best mechanic and the diagnostic computer.
This issue has now moved to the URGENT category since I was almost stranded at the grocery store last night. Cranked and cranked 7 times with a long pause in between attempts so as to not run the battery down. The 8th time it finally caught and started.
I am going to buy the part and, if I get brave enough, I might even do the work myself. (Maybe.)
Thank you so very much for posting this! I will let you know how it goes.
The reason is the intake air flow sensor also reads temps and the discrepancy in the airflow sensor and engine temp sensor trips a no start situation so there will not be a misfire / backfire from timing / fuel program for cold temp causing it to possibly backfire a backfire with excess fuel = bad idea so the system said no fire / spark because it is way outside of specs. This is done this way on alot of dual overhead cammed engines with timing belts because a hard backfire will literally snap the timing belts and possibly cause valves to hit pistons aka possibly ruining a engine.
thank you for watching
I believe you are right Rick. I had a similar problem with a '91 Dodge Shelby Daytona Turbo. Ancient by todays standards, but they used the same logic to prevent bad things from happening.
i have a sububan 2002 that will crank but not start just like this but also the fuel gaudge shuts off. what could this be.
Di you scan for trouble codes?
check for spark then check for fuel easy way to check for spark is use a sparkplug and sparkplug wire and ground it the exhaust manifold and look for a arc / spark if there is none likely have a crank sensor issue or ignition control module is bad and if have spark check for fuel if have fuel make sure is proper fuel pressure around 45psi is minimum for a 2002 suburban preferred around 50-55 psi.
So glad I saw this. Save me ass shop fees. $22 part and I'm good. Thank you
Great.I'm happy to help.
jimthecarguy hi Jim all the best from Australian auto club yeah we have all kinds of sensor faults stopping engines from running from crank angle sensors and fuel pump failures to module faults and speed limiter faults I guess that's why we have to keep our training up to scratch cause every new model brings different problems. keep up the good work mate
Yup it does, I check out Repairpal.com now, I lookup cost on fixing things myself, I've saved about $7,900 so far on this Ford on repairs, my cost, about $5,500 and that's with a new Reman engine with 3 years or 36,000 miles, which ever came 1st, ordered threw work. Brakes on all 4 corners cost new with top parts, PLATINUM CERAMIC WEAVER BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS, replaced 2 calipers, 1 in FRONT, then a year later, the rear got stuck, cost me $267 for all, threw that place, just rotors and pads would of cost $1,500 on my SUV, that's front and rears now. Minus the 2 CALIPERS plus must bleed them to. Total cost is all TOGETHER closer to $2,000 now, that's and $1780 TOTAL, I'M DISABLED SO THAT'S A DAM A LOT OF MONEY TO ME FOR BRAKES DONE RIGHT. I DID THEM IN ABOUT 7 HOURS TAKING MY SWEET TIME, ALSO REPLACED REAR SWAY BAR LINKS THAT'S MADE BY MOOG FROM ROCKAUTO, COST $11.25 I THINK, STORES NEAR ME WAS $23.00 FOR THE CHEAPEST ONE AND THAT'S JUST 1 SIDE ONLY. IT COST ME THAT FOR 2 OF THEM WITH FREE SHIPPING, DOESN'T HAPPEN OFTEN FROM ROCKAUTO. THOSE COST FROM $94 TO $163 TO INSTALL THESE PER A PAIR. THAT'S CRAZY. DID THEM WHEN REPLACING BRAKES AND 1 REAR CALIPER TOO. PLUS BLEED THE BRAKES, 1ST TIME MY SON HELPED ME EVER, NOW HE WANTS TO LEARN MORE TO FLIP CARS TO MAKE ENOUGH SO HE CAN BUY HIS DREAM CAR, CAN SELL 5 CARS A YEAR EACH FREE OF TAXES. They don't make cars like before i said, to many computers so we can be burned pretty fast.
Than you for the video. A friend is thanking you more, he had this problem back in 2012 with his 2004 Taurus. Long story short, his responded the same as you described. He had his towed to the local dealer who had the car for 3 days. They called for him to come pick up his car and gave him a bill for $1200. It was all diagnostic and $240 for the sensor. They will be returning to court shortly. You may be approached to clarify your findings.
Jim the Car Guy!!..God bless you and many thanks, that was it!!
my 04 3.0l v6 ohv sea did the same thing!..checking the tach this see crank turning worked. my sensor was in the inlet housing I actually cleaned and polished it and it worked!! started right up!!...I ordered a new one, when it arrived it goes right in. thank you again
For god so loved the world, that he gave us cancer.
PRS - Wish I Hade Found This Sooner!!! 2019
This should be the number one video on UA-cam for No Start vehicles. I have a 1995 5.8 Automatic Bronco. During the past two years I have look at hundreds of videos on for my no start situation which is the same as the person who posted this video and the many people who saw it even though I did not see it. Over the past two years I have replaced every sensor on my 95 Bronco under the hood including the water temp sensor. When the water temp sensor was replaced a couple of other sensors were also replaced and the vehicle started and ran for a couple of weeks. I did not know it was likely that sensor that got it running. Over the past 9 months I finished replacing everything I thought might be a problem. Finally I took it to a repair shop and after checking the Bronco they advised it was not getting fuel and needed a fuel pump. I had previously done test on the pump and new it was not only working but that it was also flooding the engine at times. The shop called me again and stated the new fuel pump was now suppling fuel but they needed to install another new WATER Temp sensor and another fuel control part. Later that day the shop called me and stated the vehicle was running and I could pick it up. It only cost me a little over $1500 for what I now believe was just a bad water temp sensor. Judging by the number of comments on this video, I think UA-cam should highlight this video on every NO START video as a serious and inexpensive possible fix.
I bet they never replaced the fuel pump, they knew what it was with computer, best to look online to see if a traveling mechanic with top notch Snapon computer to check for 1/3 if the price. I hate using craigslist but there's some great MECHANICS that drive to you and check things for minimum fee provided how far they may be. Me, WELL i live in a small STATE, takes an hour to CROSS it, but i boarder another state, people can CHARGE only $40 if close to you if your doing work. But if more wrong, he gives quotes on paper with you getting parts or them getting them. Best if they get on certain parts. Other parts with core charges, ask if there charging for core CHARGE, if so, then ask if you can get that and always ask what store does he use, he may give his name to use and save you MONEY, make sure you pay any and all taxes now. Have a FRIEND that has a few accounts, I DON'T have mine since our GARAGE closed in April 2st of 1994, PEOPLE thought I was pulling a JOKE, I knew all my CUSTOMERS and it was a shock to me and others that work there, 4 year remodeling jib that took tearing it down and building a new Exxon without the 3 bays. Wished I knew, could of taken old machine's that I used to fix tires for CUSTOMERS and gave 50% to my boss, at 1st he was pissed, I said I can't use this but I can fix flats but it never happened, charged $15 with balancing it. THEY sat for 5 year's, kept asking to open it BECAUSE one guy drove 22 miles to spin wrenches, I had 4 great MECHANICS that wanted to work as a sub contractor. So just renting lift bay out and you get a cut of every job with a slip for records if wanted, boss said nope. Not EVEN our cars at all. Sucked working off GROUND, got fired 6 times for working on my car or FRIENDS coming to my work after they got out of theres around 11:00 to 11:30 p.m. i CLOSED AT MIDNIGHT, they SCARED the old LADIES AWAY he said, I said they kept me from getting robbed like what HAPPENED before i started working there, a guy shot in knee a year before me, i started at 15 years old. Back then, NO LAWS ON WORKING ON THINGS, JUST NOT PAST MIDNIGHT ON A SCHOOL NIGHT. I GOT OUT ABOUT 12:10 A.M. after counting draw and making final drop and locking up paperwork in OFFICE. Had fun there. LOTS of fun.
I have a 2007 Escape that seems like it is a timing issue. But it is flooding the cylinders with the crank no start. I will try this thank you. I HAVE ALSO LOOKED AT EVERY VIDEO ON you tube for about three months.
I would like to see you go out and disconnect the new sensor after instalation and see if it doesnt start.
thanks for sharing your knowledge and specially the most most valuable time and you just earn a subscriber
I learn something new today ! Thank you..
Wow! I have checked the fuel system, ignition system, and compression with no luck. Thanks to your video, my shitty sable is alive again.
Jim,
This is super common, as Temp Sensors usually fail by breaking "OPEN". Electrically, the computer's pull-up
resistor pulls up against air, instead of a temperature-sensitive resistor (the sensor). The problem is that the
Twenty-Something Software Engineers at FORD programmed the Fuel Injection Map to starve the engine, because
a broken sensor reads like a very HOT one. Firing them all might actually cure these problems...
I just carry a spare one in my glove box and plug the connector into it, laying it on the engine somewhere. The
truck starts right up. The modern PLASTIC sensors shear in half when you try to remove them, so ALWAYS use
the Brass ones. 1995 F-150 4.9l standard trans. CHEERS, and good video! Hap
PS: Volvos have the same problem! Find me a truck that can recover from such a simple (and common) parts
failure, and I will dump the Fords and buy one!
Thanks for heads up if that works on 2003 Ford Explorer 4.6L AWD now, if they break easy, then I'll buy one and plug in and it starts up ? If so then I'll do that until I can get inside to work on it, almost sounds like no FUEL or timing chain because engine TURNING over faster than normal it sounds like. Only 72K on Reman engine that's taking care of.
with air temp at 70 and motor temp at 14, engine with not have a parameter for correct timing advance for cold start.
My Hyundai coolant sensor was showing -28 degrees and started perfectly all the time.
@@davidtrautman6482 Do you even read what you write? If coolant temp is low and engine temp is low of coarse it will start. If coolant and engine temp are too far apart there are no parameters for correct air to fuel ratio.
The first time I ran into this issue, I was at a Ford dealership. I wasted a few hours before contacting Ford's tech line. The engineer I got knew exactly what to check first. He said the coolant temp sensor circuit fuzzes out the reference voltage in ECU and it can cause issues with no starts, no cranks, and stalling. He had me load test the wires between the sensor and the ECU. If the wires were good to replace the sensor and if the wires are bad to repair them and replace the sensor anyway.
Thank you for your input and for watching
The sensor could have been shorted to ground internally, pulling vref below 5v. When that happens, the micro controller (PCM) loses reference for all the other sensors since vref is a common circuit. No telling what kind of weirdness can happen in that case.
For those that don't know: VREF is the +5v signal supplied to all sensors in a vehicle. The sensor will return a signal that ranges from 0v to VREF, and the PCM translates that into engineering units (voltage, temperature, etc.). If VREF is below 5v, some sensors will not work, or return incorrect voltage for what is physically going on.
Thank you for the breakdown! Cause this is crazy! 🙌🏿🙌🏿
The coolant temperature controls fuel, it sends a message to the ecm and add fuel on a cold start.
Because of your mentioning about the Crank Position Sensor and it's affect on the tach (which mine wasn't moving). I was able to find the sensor (which was cracked/broken) replaced it and the car started right up. $36 job !!! Thank the Lord
That engine compartment sure is packed.
That's exactly what I've always wanted... a car that will leave me stranded because it doesn't know the coolant temperature.
It should have started in open loop, then thrown a code and a check engine light, but nooOOOOOoooo.
Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted.
@@jimthecarguy @Jimthecarguy this is happening in my 92 mazda navajo / ford explorer. Online obd 1 diagnostics say to ignore faulty ect sensor code since it's got to be within normal operating temp to their good codes, replacing everything else I went back to this sensor, heated it up on my desk with Cooper wire plus solder iron, resistance reads true.. purchase new ect sensor and resistance reads true. I might revisit the problem and see if I am not getting continuous current.. my only guess
Saw this one other time - a while back, and yes you would not think of that stopping the vehicle from starting!!! Great video, nice job !
Thanks for your input and watching.
everything is changing partner the computer controls everything great video!!!
it shorted the v-reff 5.0 volts supplied by the pcm for the sensors. when v-reff is shorted it is a derate so the pcm does not get damaged.
I was thinking much the same, 4.65 is very close to the 5 volt supply . The sensor it self showed signs of corrosion , acidic coolant will generate voltage like a battery , but not as much as 5 volts.
I have also seen the sensor common voltage shorted to an auxiliary wire via rubbing and sensors internally shorted. Throwing off other sensors that use same supply and grounding. Look at a wiring diagram and you will probably see common used 5volt wire for temp and other sensors. If you still have car there, plug sensor back in and look at other sensor data. You would probably see something else also off.
I agree with you Steve. I have a Jeep grand Cherokee that would not start. I was having reference voltage problems. I unplugged the tps and it started up. shorted reference circuit shut pcm down.
Two pin sensors are isolated from the reference voltage so that shorting it should have no effect on the reference. If they were actually connected directly, the sensor output would always read 5V, so what purpose would it serve? It's supposed to be just part of a voltage divider, and whether it's open circuit or shorted, it should only affect that one signal and not the reference. Unless it's a really bad design-
My girlfriend has an Audi from 2007 and in winter we had problems starting the car.
When it was really cold outside we couldn’t start it so easy, we needed a minute or two cranking.
All this time the until the light came on, I went for a scan in summer and they said everything was as it should.
I went one more time in winter and guess what was giving bad reading…😕😕
I had the sensor replaced, no problem since then.
Great video!
The ECT sensor is used as a load sensor and therefore plays A role in controlling the volume of fuel. This is necessary to start a cold engine. A faulty read as you had will cause the PCM to flood the engine. If it was cold outside the engine would have probably started . Thanks for sharing.
This is what we would all assume to be the case, BUT! it wasn't flooded he said it had NO SPARK!
I’m thinking that he probably did have spark and didn’t realize it. As a master technician, I know that there is no correlation between the etc sensor and spark with this situation.
France M yea if the cars running hot its fuels the cat with more fuel to get the cumbustion temp colder
bingo...
Not so Stephen. Yes, a fat/rich mixture cools combustion chambers down, but I know of no systems that fatten of the a/f mix to cool it down when in a hot or overheating condition. I could be wrong though. If so who is the manufacturer that has this design? You are speaking of autos/ trucks, correct?
When the sensor reaches 4.0 volts. The ECM is told no coolant present Is why. As the sensor works by fluid conversion. Not just sensing temperature. It has to be immersed coolant and sense it.
@john simmons Listen idiot. Fords are designed to not start or go into limp mode. If the engine overheats. If the Senors is bad,. It thinks the engine is overheating. Why it has two sensors.. One to monitor head temp. One to monitor coolant temp... If the head sensor fails. It turns off the AC compressor and goes into limp mode. If the coolant temp fails. The engine will not start once you turn it off. It does it too protect the engine. As Ford doesn't like warranting engines.
Now get in education in how things work and why..
Thank You
A 99 Ford Explorer would crank but not start. Relay was good. Had it towed in to be checked. Mechanic said the problem was that the thermostat was going bad. When my daughter called to tell me (it's her car now), I told her that a thermostat can't be the problem. Perhaps the problem was the same thing you ran into here. Anyway, it's running fine and all is well. Live and learn. Thanks for your video.
Thank you for this video. I have a coolant temperature sensor code and my car wont start. I ignore the code because I did not think that would make the car not start. I got cam sensors and it still wont start
Don't ever rely on the tach for confirmation of crank sensor signal. Some tachs run off the cam sensor or even the alternator.
Hey what do you mean the alternator. my car won't start cause the battery keeps running dead and I just changed the alternator but no spark and its a brand new battery
I just had the same problem with a 89 chevy silverado 1500. It would die when it got warm and wouldn't start tell it was cold again. It would just crank, no start. Never heard of temp sensor causing a no start tell the other day. All I did was unplug the sensor and jump the 2 wires together in wire harness and truck started right up and runs and idles better then it ever has. Crazy. Great video.
Thanks for watching. I'm happy to help.
Cars today are far too complicated, simple things like this can stop an engine working, Imagine if you are in the middle of no where and a sensor costing a few £'s can leave you stranded.
,
***** I have a 1975 Olds Cutlass I'm restoring - the only electronics I'm gonna have is the HEI distributor (bullet-proof) and the stereo. Electronics have no place in cars.
***** Considering a car is comprised of hundreds if not thousands of low cost parts it's usually the case that a low cost part breaks and leaves you stranded. When people's wheel falls off the car how much do you think the axle nut that came loose/off cost?
Randy Condran If you believe electronics have no place in cars then you need to swap the hei with points and condensor and axe the radio otherwise your being hypocritical.
HEI is a proven technology that's easy to fix - I'll keep my carb and I'll keep my stereo.
Helps the computer decide the fuel/air ratio to get the engine warmed up. It was probably dumping so much fuel that the mixture wouldn't fire since the air isn't as dense as cold air.
+Charles Scott There was no-spark! No-spark from the ECU means no fuel.
tcpnetworks would be odd that a temp sensor would cause no spark, actually that shouldnt occur IMO.
+Charles Scott My thoughts exactly. If anything, the engine should start but run rich, since the ECM would be delivering the fuel it was programmed to at the temperature it thought the engine was at. I wonder how many Tore-asses won't start every winter when the temps drop into the teens???
TIL: Don't buy a Ford if you have to go to work in the winter. LOLz
Andy Hicks With my limited time with Ford cars, if the sensor fails, the computer sees it as -40F/C so it will certainly run VERY rich (it actually can not see below -40, even with a working sensor). But a no spark condition... No way a temp sensor can cause that unless the ECM decides, "oh hey, no voltage here? lets not send voltage elsewhere and confuse the mechanic by giving a false no-spark".
That aside, my issues with the video, he said it would start, but drop into gear and it would die and not start back. He also stated no spark condition. Sorry, but a no spark condition means the car never would have ran. So yeah, I still stand by, it was trying to run too damned rich for the atmospheric conditions. And we are getting to the point now with cars where just a drop too much or too little going into the cylinder will probably cause it to miss, two drops and it may die out. I guess we can thank efficiency requirements.
+Charles Scott Agree 100% ! Good Call ! Definitely would change the oil due to cylinder wash.
that happened to my 96 chevy pickup in a burger king drive through, kind of common when the circuit dead shorts, keep that in mind, great video thumbs up
The ECM looks at multiple sensors to start and keep the engine running. coolant temp is one besides crank, cam, TPS, MAF, MAP. the ECM looks at coolant temp sensor to know what the current engine temp is in order to allow engine to run or prevent it from damage. every car veries sligthly but about a range of say -20 - 250°F is the window ECM will fire or run the engine(if all sensors are good) outside that range it shuts of sparks. if a temp sensor is faulty it usually falls out of that range or cause by damage and the ECM doesn't fire the igniter or coils until it receives the correct feed back from that sensor(s). hope this helps.
Jake Vaj
That sort of makes sense, but why does the ecu still let you turn the engine over, wouldnt that do damage let alone it starting??
Tyrone Nelson
It might change with time, but the starting circuit and motor are not controlled by the ECM. Cranking the engine provides a wealth of information important to diagnosing it. Sensor info, trouble codes etc. If it cranks but don't start then I have a whole different approach to trouble shooting then if it don't crank. It is rare that cranking an engine would cause any additional damage to it except in the case where the engine already has terminal mechanical issues.
jake - That is a meaningless flim flam explanation. The problem is simply bad ECU software from the factory programmers. Engines routinely are colder than 14F degrees and they start just fine.
Jake V Since computers were installed on engines to help control emissions I was taught that coolant temperature was the primary source allowing closed loop operation. Hence an incorrect/implausible temperature reading will disable the motor until repaired.
The ECT controls fuel delivery during open loop, maybe the extremely low temperature probably caused
the computer to spray to much fuel into the combustion chamber.
+Brendon Dejesus Yes ! Way too rich to fire the engine.
+Brendon Dejesus That dont explain the no spark condition
+gguilliams14 he had spark. said that that was the first thing he checked.
He had spark...
+Brendon Dejesus :025 "HAS NO SPARK !!""
I'm glad I watched this video. My sensor is bad. Currently it's keeping the cooling fan from running. I haven't changed it because it's winter. And my garage is packed with tools and motercyles. I better put the new one in. Thanks for the video enjoyed.
This is a result of 50 years of EPA and government influence in something that makes your car impossible for the average person to work on. Mankind is its own worst enemy. Have you wondered why new vehicles cost 30 to 50 thousand dollars now? Government restrictions are killing us every day as we work ourselves to the brink just to make ends meet.
Big brother just does not know when to stop , and this spineless society continues to nod its head to the foolishness , while consumers continue to pay stupid prices for garbage .
funny how they just spent millions, with more slated in order to raise the sea wall and walkways in Miami to keep from flooding. Not to mention the multiple category 4 or above hurricanes, otherwise unheard of... you're correct that mankind is it's own enemy: summed up in one word -ignorance!
I have ran into this on a 1993 Chevy Silverado 350 TBI, but it would flood then not start. it was also the coolant temperature switch.
The temp sensor prevented reading. New sensor allowed reading. You may want tore watch the video
I just had same problem. After replacing throttle body, fuel pump fuel filter, ect.. I still got same problem. It would fire up when i first try in morning. But the second the engine got warm it would start sounding like it was out of time and it would die. And when trying to restart it would crank but no start. So finally got a code 15 on blinking light on dash. So i unplugged temp sensor and i jumped both wires together on wire harness. Started truck up and truck has never ran and idles as good as it does now. Never heard of a temp sensor telling causing this in my life. But it makes sense. And it was like you said on the chevy the computer tells it to give more fuel which causes it to flood engine. As when I would check new plugs they was wet everytime it would die and not start back up. Good post/comment.
jim grate video and thanks for sharing . I learned something again from watching your video . this is good to know . but i must say this with out your scan tool you probable would not have known what the cause was
yeah that is strange I automatically assumed it was a timing belt the way it seemed to be turning over really fast
Electronic cars are more trouble than what they are worth, technology gone mad. Probably designed to fail after a certain time after the warranty expires to keep the specialised dealership mechanics busy and rich. They don't even want people to have the ability to parallel park their cars anymore so they invent self parking cars, absolute madness.
+Thetrucky69 I don't know about that statement. I wish there was a system like that years ago when my wife blew up my Boss 9 Mustang. She tore a hole in the oil pan running over a concrete park stop. She said she thought red light was for "change oil soon". I said why were you not looking at the gauges as well? She replied " what are the gauges" Well, the Boss 9 and the wife have moved on. I sure miss that car.
I see your point there in that case, warning lights and warning devices are very practical when the person that drives the car knows nothing about engines to know when there is a problem, you must have loved the car then! cheers.
+Thetrucky69 Thank you for your input.
+jimthecarguy No worries at all mate, cheers!
Douglas Smith
Letting your wife drive the Mustang was your first mistake…
Jimthecarguy, this is P.Dub from Fresno..I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra
as this situation seem to have a cured as well..Still I appreciate the helpful video information and will subscribe to your needful video's
Thank you sir!....
Thanks for watching.
My friend had a 1999 Ford Taurus that would not start. He had the car towed to a
garage and they found nothing wrong. Then to a service station in our area who
went right to the problem which was low coolant. The reservoir had coolant in it
but the radiator was very low. They added coolant and it fired right up. The mechanic
there owned a 99 Taurus and had run into that problem before.
Thank you for watching and your input.
Thank you for this my car hasn't started for 2 months and all idiot so called mechanics couldn't figure it out. Took me 30 min now cars running like new again.. Thank u..
This doesn't sound legitimate. As you can clearly see in this video "idiot mechanics" use very expensive OBD scanning tools to diagnose car problems. But if you still think you're mechanic is an idiot then get a new one.
@@staypositive4358 I believe him, I've seen the dealership charge thousands and not even fix the problem and it turns out to be a 30 dollar sensor the customer could have changed themselves
@@ericg4915 . There is no way a dealership charged anyone thousands of dollars to find out the problem was a sensor. There could have easily been multiple problems. But again, if you have an "idiot" mechanic find a a new one. You can also buy a decent OBD scanner and some tools if your willing to diagnose and fix your own car.
@@staypositive4358 your joking right? Whether it turns out to be a valve, sensor, fuse, ground, wire etc etc I've heard millions of stories and seen just as many where the dealer or mechanic dumps 1, 2, 3 thousand into a car and it turns out to be a little cheap part like a sensor. Literally just yesterday a story of a woman who hard occasional rough start and stored misfire data. Full tune up and injectors was around 2,000. Turned out to be a 40 dollar purge valve flooded the intake with gas vapors cause it was stuck open causing a long crank and a rough start especially after getting gas. Its not about being an idiot, any mechanic can have a bad day or get stumped
The whole crank sensor thought helped me drastically. Im having the same issue, hopefully its just the plugs.
more than likely it's the computer interpreting impossible readings, so it disables the ignition to avoid further damage.
I'm sorry Dave........... I can't open the pod bay doors!
Thanks for another great video Jim. I'm curious why the temp was showing 192 if car hasn't been running.
Great point. Now theres a guy that unplugged the old and plugs in new one, leaves on engine, STATES PLASTIC ONES BREAKING A LOT, said buy the good ones that's brass temp one. Will look into it.
I assumed he had it running and confirmed the problem before making the video.
2000 sierra I changed the coolant temp scensor because the old one melted for some reason,Im guessing loose connection, but as soon as I changed it the truck started 4 or 5 times dying immediately, I searched my problem and your video just happen to be first, and im glad it was thank you for the upload help, I dont have a obd scanner, I was doing a tune up and noticed the wire connection melted, I stuck together and taped it, it ran normal, then I ordered a ACDelco scensor from Amazon and defective I guess, but thanks again, because like most I go to thinking gas, fire, battery weak or loose but even though I just did the coolant scensor i never never would have thought it was the problem.
shorted sensors (showing 4 volts after a lot of cranking) can and will take down everything else on that circuit.
What is happening here is the coolant temp sensor is shorting out to ground the 5 volt reference circut is shared by mutiple sensors like MAF , coils, map, and many more. So anyhow with the temp sensor shorted it also shorting out everything on that 5 volt reference circut which is why it won't start
Thank you for watching
You almost have it right. The ETC is short to positive not grounded as you stated.
Ok so I am needing help bad. I have a 2006 Volkswagen Touareg V8 4.2L. I have a brand new battery. The Volkswagen won't start, but does act as if it wants to turn over, it just doesn't. My instrument panel/ dashboard has ECM light that stays on, as well as engine light, and ABS. When I try to start my car up, it is quite, and doesn't sound different, except that it won't start. It has back fired a couple times, pairiotically. It has a brand new timing belt on it, when I purchased the vehicle. Which also didn't work when I purchased it as well. My question is if it reads something about timing, could it possibly be the camshaft position sensor that could possibly be the reason for the vehicle not to start and possibly read as timing? If not could I possibly get any advice or direction on what I could do to resolve my situation to get it to where it will start up, so I can drive it. Please I'd forever be grateful for any direction, help and advice i may be able to recieve. Thank you
thank you so much, today my ford explorer 2002 xls manual couldn't start in the cold day, so I have ordered new coolant temperature sensor from usa. so I hope that my car will be easily start after changing the sensor ,
@jimthecarguy it happens vws also are like this if the temperature goes to high it wont turn on.
This more or less happened to my 2003 Audi A4. The temp sensor was faulty and telling the ECU that the car was already overheated and thus wouldn't allow it to fire. It would crank plenty but not fire. The irony is that it was on one of the coldest days of the winter last year.
Thank you for watching.
Did your rpm guage jump when you turn the key over. Mines doesnt and i have the same issue
iRecordOS I actually can’t recall. The only reason I figured out what was going on is because I had been getting a CEL for the same sensor so knew it was starting to fail.
Hey Jim thanks for the great video and not talking to us like we are all
in the 3rd grade. That said I had a 94 taco that if the coolant got
low I would get a surge and or rough idle from the engine. The coolant
temp sensor was throwing the air fuel mix off, weird for a 94...
good job and your sharing jim!!
Thank you for stopping by the shop
Could you mind to write down your email..thanks
jsauto103@optonline.net
Thanks jim
jimthecarguy
You never worked on a VW? One of the most common issues for odd no starts is the coolant temp sensor.
Goodl ol VW's and their crappy electrical syystems!
I had this same issue on my 2001 Taurus wagon with the 3L 12 valve engine but it wasn't the sensor. The coolant was old and was inducing a small voltage through electrolysis. All I did was a full cooling system flush and everything was fine. The stray voltage that was being created was throwing off the voltage the sensor was reporting. Only reason I actually found out the issue is I had to pull a hose to get at the bottom of the engine. I figured since I had lost so much coolant I may as well do a flush so just topped off with water. That was JUST enough to reduce the electrolysis and allow the sensor to report properly.
I bought a new 1999 Dodge Stratus with the 2.4. Drove it home and the next morning it wouldn't start. Dealer sent a rollback and it started up for him. At the dealer, no codes or anything could be found. They returned the car. The next morning, the same thing. This time the rollback driver couldn't get it started. Dealer found that the high temp sending unit was giving a high temp reading to the computer and shutting off the fuel. Problem fixed!! This happened in less than 50 miles on a new car.
773trucker
Cars have thousands of parts. They have a failure rate. It passed operational tests, but failed when it got to you. Just funky luck. That's why the dealer has a repair facility under warranty.
Had a 05 Buick rendevue that would bog down on hills but run OK on level gouund. dealer replaced computer, cut off cat.converter still couldn't find problem. they called Detroit engeneers ,found out a wheel sensor was sending a bad signal to computer telling comp. to limit gas flow to 75%. Dealership wanted me to pay $1600 for them to experiment to find problem. finally settle for half. Still a bad pill to swallow. Buick won't see me back!!!
George Shears i would iffin i was you go out and buy a 1971 ford f-100 and fix it up like new and say seeya to all those sensors and hemroids ect.. yea i know it will cost an extra 2 dollars in gas per month but thats what i would do.
sounds like a good idea to me!!!!!!
I totally agree with you. Let me repeat, I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU.!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah, except my daily commute alone is 60+ miles so that's like an extra $3-4 in gas per day. Meaning over $100 difference on my monthly gas bill, if I DON'T take any trips.
Guy Azbell I have a 1971 f100 step side does like gas
This is a great video. Watching UA-cam you get to see how the sensors work and communicate with the ECM. More people need to learn the basics so they understand the overall operation of their vehicle.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I've never run into this problem but It would have been helpful if you had pulled an injector (leaving it connected to fuel source) and held a rag over the orifice while cranking to see if fuel was being delivered. (At least for the UA-cam comment section).
My thoughts on this is the computer is expecting a certain number of parameters within specific ranges for startup and this ECT sensor was in an open (fail) state (4.9v) which means if Ford engineers had allowed the car to be started/ran then the coolant temperature could not be read by the computer. Coolant temperature is a necessary value the computer needs to monitor so the car does not overheat, if not for other reasons.
Kinda like your home computer, where the CPU monitors it's temperature and revolutions of the CPU fan. If the computer starts up and either values are unreadable, some computers will immediately power off or beep. In older computers, it just kept starting up and within 45-60 seconds the CPU fried itself.
Edit: I feel the 14 degrees displayed temperature was misleading and should be ignored. What the viewers should have considered instead was the ECT voltage (also displayed on the screen). The voltage gave the clue needed for solving this.
It makes sense, but still not a catastrophic failure mode to prevent engine from operating. No enterely sure how CO2 sensors work since they are preheated on start, but the computer could guess that engine is cold from that side so attemp to run on avg figures and mark flashing check engine light on the dash. Catastrophic failure would be a crank sensor because you can ruin the engine injecting without any clue.
38911bytefree The O2 sensor you mention is not the ECT (or CTS) sensor. Also the computer cannot guess, it only receives sensor values and then makes spark and fuel adjustments based on the data its given. ECT reading is one value the computer uses, combined with other inputs to adjust the fuel mixture. Easy enough for Ford engineers to program the computer to prevent spark to the plugs when all the required sensors are not in the ranges it could expect. Note the new ECT sensor was now reading the proper coolant temperature and the sensor voltage decreased substantially, now the computer had what it wanted and it then provided spark for startup. The video proves it was the fault of the ECT sensor. (Other vehicles may not be programmed in the same way).
Interesting problem. It's probably related to Ford's oil pressure protection. If the oil pressure during cranking is lower than expected, then the ECU shuts off fuel and spark.
With the coolant temperature sensor reporting a very cold start, the ECU is expecting a high cold-start oil pressure (due to high oil viscosity). Instead, it's getting a low pressure due to warm oil, and blocking the start.
You can get the same issue if you put the wrong grade of oil in. This is worse on some engines, where Ford made a last minute change to the grade, specifying a lower viscosity oil to meet a fuel consumption target or something. If you go a grade thinner again, this may be enough to trip the low-oil pressure safety and the car won't start.
Exactly lol. Guess people don't know what a built in safety measure is
Mikel Bentley.. People understand a "Built-in safety measure" However... They don't want them to inhibit them from driving their cars to an automotive shop for the repair over a sensor failure of a obvious false sensor reading. Do we need onboard sensors to detect and bypass failing (inaccurate) onboard sensors??? The very Best auto techs will tell you... Although a diagnostic system is beneficial. Many are poorly designed and overkill.
Only Ford would design something this stupid. I no longer own a ford after my last one. thanks for the video. great job.
The PCM uses the signal of the ECT as a main correction factor when calculating ignition advance and injection duration. The ECT is a high hierarchy sensor at start-up and during warm-up. If the PCM detects an extremely cold engine signal it can over-fuel and drown the engine. In this case, it seems the PCM cut spark and fuel completely because the fuel correction would've been way out of specs. Good example of why it's important to check scan tool data, but in this case I'm sure there was a DTC as well, which would've help pinpoint the problem quicker.
It sounds like it's part of the car, own safety feature's, so the engine doe not get damaged. Just modern technology, with a lot of computers, and software.
Yea wish my car had had that .... before she overheated .... and blew the head gaskets .... and warped the heads
No, the sensor is confusing the computer. At low temps the computer Richens the mixture, so its making a flooding condition (In this case). And sensor was sending over 4 volts, new one sent .66 volts, probably confused the computer even more.
It shares a common ground with the other sensors and acts as a pull down resistor
Did anyone else notice engine temp was at 192 degrees on the test restart? How can that be?
The guy had probably already run the car before to see if he had fixed the problem before he had actually filmed that he had fixed the problem.
It's like a circuit breaker, computer is set so the engine dosnt over heat.
Ok, but if the ECU is set to rather be safe than sorry in case of a questionable sensor, why does it allow cranking the engine?
depends on the vehicle some dont fire if no fuel pressure, some dont fire if no oil pressure some just wont fire if any of the sensors are faulty, whats really needed are driver capability sensors to tell if a low performance driver behind the wheel of a high performance car that wont allow driving beyond his/her means, and if the cell phone is in use steer it to the curb
Likely due to the computer having no control over the starter, in this vehicle?
Because Ford engineers know that cranking the engine will never overheat it. Allowing it to crank also shows the components and computer values needed to crank the motor are within value and working, so the repair person can concentrate on operational issues even if it doesn't start (Items come to mind, fuel delivery, MAF sensor, Air flow, ECT sensor etc..)
Well...what happens when the car owner overheats????
I BELIEVE I HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM A COUPLE YEARS AGO:
This drove me absolutely up the wall until I simply decided to change the temp sensor which I too had noted on my scanner reading -18 degrees. After returning car to customer and no further problems I REALLY started pulling my hair out trying to determine how in the F the coolant temp sensor keeps the engine from firing.
This is what I came up with:
If the coolant temp sensor does not agree with other temp sensors such as intake air temp, the ECU shuts the engine down as protection as it has determined the device is not reading properly and wants to avoid possible engine damage from an overheat condition.
For those of you who may want to school me on the difference between readings on the the intake air temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor...........I know so forget it.
I have since discussed this in detail with ford engineers who after a week or so of my initial contact came back and confirmed my suspicion.
So with me: CASE CLOSED and now I can sleep
Frank Dion thank you for stopping by the shop
Over voltage from the sensor causing the computer to not want to do anything.
More than likely just a bug that the engineers didn't account for.
Darn those engineers anyway!!! They do this on purpose to mess with mechanics.
I am working on a 1994 taurus wagon 3.0. It will crank and run like a sewing machine until it gets warm, then it shuts off. Have to wait until engine cools before it will crank and run. This is exactly what's wrong. Thank you.
I already did everything else.
Fuel pressure good, fuel filter replaced
New plugs/wires
Cleaned MAF
Checked crank sensor
All fuses good
etc etc
Could this be true also on older Ford's like a 1992 3.0 Aerostar van.
If you haven't already replaced the sensor, you should do so. Then disconnect the battery for 10 minutes so it will refresh the computer. Worked on my 1995 f150 4.9ltr
finally i found this good video..mostly talk so much shit..good job dude.👌🏼👏🏼👍🏻
You know your stuff.I have a 96 Dodge Avenger.After changing coil and spark plugs and car started with ruff idle left running when inside for 2 minutes came outside car was off.I tried to restart no success.I watched your video.I purchased a temp sensor online a couple mo ago noticed cool level sometime below c level went driving even on hot days live in FL.I decided to change temp sensor .Car Started Right Up.The computer was stopping car from starting up. Good Diagnostic Bro.I'm having a cold one🌴
ran into this on a 2013 fusion.
well I have the same problem. thank you. I'm going to buy a coolest sensor now
Thanks for sharing that. Pretty mental.
I think your suggestion might be somewhere near. If its outside the normal temperature parameters, it wont run in order to protect the engine.
All ford vehicles have a no start for the temp sensor lmao my 1988 f150 did that if you hold the gas to the floor it'll crank after a min but it'll try to flood out to keep from starting bc the computer thinks something is wrong lol
Thank you for watching.
Mikel Bentley
H
Mikel Bentley @
Mikel Bentley aye man fast question I have a 1991 ford f150 and it cranks but wont start I already replaced many of things such as plugs n wires which was in bad shape so was definitely needed had little to no spark changed the starter, the ignition coil, the starter solenoid switch, the battery, distributor cap, and a few other things cant remember it'll crank without the gas pedal down just still not getting it to start
"LIMP MODE"
Had that HAPPEN, weird as HELL. Go about 3 maybe 5 MPH max. Very close to home, just 3/10's of a mile from home.
That should be fords new motto.
Simply put, coolant temp sensor, and intake air temp sensor all correspond with fuel flow. It all depends on the outside temperature and workings of the sensors to send those readings to the computer. Same concept as a choke, when the car is cold, it needs more fuel to start and run, when its warmed up and in closed loop, it requires less fuel to run efficiently. It's Interesting it would completely disable the car from starting though. Great Video, I'm glad you got it fixed. Thank you
can you please say ... hey micky forget about it :P
TheGarage Gaming thes no
All of this electronic crap is tied into the computer and if anything is off it doesn't work.
I'm going back to a Fn carburetor and mechanical fuel pump driven by the engine. Keep an extra set of points, condenser and fan belt in the truck, Old is better!
1999 honda crv - back in February 2017 - ect sensor caused it to run in limp mode. would not respond to gas pedal. these inexpensive sensors/plugs/sending units can create large headaches-- luckily they are fairly accessible. Great video
just have a problem with my hyundai matrix 2004 1.6 engine automatic trans GAS,.,.crank engine but wont start,.that it means to me that my camshaft possition sensor is bad and i need to replace a new one found out when i scan it,.so i dit it and buy a new camshaft sensor.then after i put a new camshaft sensor,.happily it start,.and i drive and used my car about 3 days perfectly but on the 4th day morning,.the problem occurs again and it not start again "crank engine wont start,.my point is what is the problem for this car?.and badly my car battery turn dead battery at the same time? please help
Did you get a fully charged battery?
The coil pack in matrix vehicles are sometimes the cause for no start.
The testing to try to crank the car with the defective sensor probably drew the battery down a lot. At that point it needed to be charged on a charger until full voltage (approx. 13.6 v.) was reached. If the battery is not holding voltage, or if your battery is 3 years old or older, replace it. (A new battery is cheaper than having it towed when you are stranded somewhere.) Test for parasitic draw with new battery, and correct any unusual current drains. Finally, check the ground for the camshaft sensor circuit to be sure that wasn't causing the initial problem.
I change the spark plugs and wires it started but when it got hot it died what cause it to keep dying
How long does it take you to sign your name on something??
For S&G's, you should have fired it with temp sensor disconnected or ~200 ohm resistor. That would indicate if it was stupid ford programming or loss of reference voltage. We've tied in a key-on 12-5vdc $25 transformer where ref voltage was mysteriously low instead of replacing computer.
that's really weird. it's a Ford it's hard telling
it's a Ford just send it to the crusher it's cheaper.
Is that why Ford did not need our last black president to bail them out? Chevy (Cheby) did. Obummer was worse than I thought.
I have a 99 Sable 24V DOHC that has the exact problem. I was thinking it either no spark or no fuel. I was thinking my fuel pump died until I watched your video. The only difference is the mine ran fine but after a cool night I got in and it cranked but nothing else. It would not catch or even give any indication that it would ever start. Thanks for your video. I hate putting money into a car that is at the end of its life. When it runs it runs like a new one thus my hesitation to trade. I didn't have a fuel smell like it was dumping raw fuel into the cylinders.
thank you for stopping by the shop.
Yeah. This just proves why I want to restore my 89 and also find another vehicle from in the 60 range. I just saw a video about changing the timing chains on a 2010 GMC Canyon and thought. Screw that noise. My 89 was harder than my 73 I used to have, but still way easier than the 2010.
I am most definitely going to check this out. I did notice my AC wasn't getting cold and when I went to put Arctic Freeze in, it wouldn't take at all. So, maybe this is in fact the problem. Thank you! I will check back in or try. Lol
Fuel trim and spark advance are different at different engine and ambient temp ranges. If the temp sensor tells the computer that it is hot when it's cold, or cold when it is hot, the fuel trim and spark advance will be incorrect for conditions causing a crank, but no start situation or severe random misfire similar to jumped timing or being 180° out.
Mine did this same exact thing, I have a 2000 Ford Taurus duratec. It would stall in the idle and at lights and refuse to start. As soon as the ECT sensor was removed it would start normally. I got a guy in red bluff ca to find it for me from Bob's tires. And in forever grateful Although I'm back at the same issue after doing an oil change cranks but won't start.