🔴 LIVE Sport Climbing: Men's Boulder & Lead Finals! |
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Watch all the action from Budapest on our app: oly.ch/OQSAPPyt
Witness the power, dedication, and skill of Olympic athletes as they compete for their chance to shine on the world stage.
Break. Climb. Skate. Ride. The Olympic Qualifier Series is the ultimate stage for Paris. The two-part festival-style series will make its first stop in Shanghai on 16-19 May. The final leap for athletes to secure a spot in an Olympic Games. The results here will help determine which athletes qualify for Paris 2024 in breaking, BMX freestyle, skateboarding, and sport climbing. The Shanghai event will be a celebration of sport and culture, with music, fashion and art combining with the sporting competition to create a festival experience. It's a chance for fans and athletes alike to go watch and try different sports, experience epic moments together and meet a lot new people.
Athletes in BMX freestyle, sport climbing, and breaking will compete for a maximum of 50 points at each of the events in Shanghai and Budapest, making a maximum possible total of 100 points per athlete. Points from both stops will be compiled into a ranking for each of the sports, that will determine which athletes earn quota places for Paris 2024.
For skateboarding, the points system is divided into three parts: results from prior competitions and the results from the Shanghai and Budapest Olympic Qualifier Series events respectively. One-third of the points are allocated from past competitions, while the remaining two-thirds will be up for grabs in Shanghai and Budapest. The combined points from all competitions will give the final ranking.
Both the boulders and the lead route were waaay overcooked considering the conditions
I would argue that it was necessary in order to have a clear separation between athletes, remember that the goal of this competition is the qualification for the olympics, and with situations like the french team had, an overly easy round would have been really messy
@@MrGmaloq There is a big gap between overly easy and overly hard. Only one route was topped in OQS, and no athlete was able to top the lead route. This is not normal. You do not want a separation like that.
@@hasancanyldrm629 agreed - and that's why route setting on this level is so hard
The conditions did not matter that much, I think. The route setters just screwed up big time.
@@hasancanyldrm629 yeah, separation should mean the top boulderers having multiple tops and the top lead climbers should top/get close to topping. not barely anyone making it up.
Starts at 30:54
W
You're doing god's work, son
Thank you ❤
The routesetters in all fairness to them did an incredible job on the women's boulders, here not so much.
4th day of competition. You can't put those boulders up. Crazy hard and no skin.
Maybe Boulder one & two would have been toppable if the temperature was like 5° lower. And Doyhun Lee almost did the slab - so they were doable under different circumstances. With this format it's more important that the route and boulders are somewhat in line with each other in order not to favor lead or boulder specialist and they did a pretty decent job at that. Maybe they would have been perfect if the conditions were a bit better.
I feel like they shouldn't have blocked that crimp on M2 after the second zone and it would've been an interesting bouldering round
Thanks to Olympic channel for posting all this free content; it's been great to watch.
Also, thanks so much to Hannah for providing a strong and healthy co-commentary with Matt. It was extremely refreshing to see a co-commentator who could continue to provide strong talking points and offer perspectives on a range of matters that kept the competition very engaging. I hope the IFSC will continue to bring her in.
I agree Hannah gives very refreshing co-commentary with Matt! Love her!
Did he shout at the hold?
Yes and her manner is excellent - very proessional
I need alex honnold back tho
Thanks for posting it on UA-cam and not on the Olympic channel. The official Olympic channel website is absolutely awful. Everything connected to the livestream, login and casting is not working at all.
Low scoring rounds are sooo frustrating to watch yet sadly they become a pattern in men's comps lately. Imagine having this massive preparation only to go out on mat to overcooked overzelaous boulders for a 4 minute struggle no one enjoys. Routesetter please let them athletes show what they are capable of!!!
disagree. if the round was too soft then the french athlete situation would have been dicey. Also the most important part is that boulder and lead are consistent in terms of points and they were this round.
Hard boulders push the sport further
@@adrienlagasse8100 Hard, yes, not ridiculously overcooked.
Ridiculous boulders
Who's leading at the moment?
gotta respect the upper body strength of these guys 🙌🏼
amazing sports show!
Such a shame the boulders were overcooked, especially when taking into account the athletes are tired from a combined event and the hot conditions 😢
Do the setters climb this themselves to make sure it’s doable?
fair question : )
Great Game 😊😊
Lets Go!!
I feel like the route setters on Olympic branded events have really been struggling on men’s boulders in particular from day one. Coming here after the actual games and it’s just a fact.
It speaks volumes about climbing culture that they're all sharing strategies and trying to solve the problems as a team during spec, regardless of country or competition.
Cadê o Jin?
Nice competition! 🤩🤩👏👏
The making of the cameras is absolutely disastrous. What a shame in an event of this magnitude...
disappointing how bouldering is presented so boring to such a big audience ...
I think it's hard to set boulders with 2 zones and the top worth 25 points. But yeah, definitely too hard, especially considering the weather
I don't really care much for the lead portion, but I'm pissed at this boulder section. All of these climbers are way better than this result. This was just poor route setting, which made for a disappointing comp to watch. Of course we want to see challenging movements, but we want to see tops! We want to see the climbers succeed! I would have much rather watched the men compete on the same set as the women than this. I'm convinced they sandbagged it because they were male competitors.
I care way more for the lead section, and that route was way too hard, too. Boulders were fairly interesting / too hard but yeah it is bouldering.
59:00
Clyde Inlet
There should be Sam Avezou song to the agadoo tune. You know Aaavezou zou zou and so on
allez
that was awsome guys, hehe
The state of the live chat was abysmal. Lots of yappers who can't even hope of doing the first move of any of these boulders. Get real, have some respect for the athletes.
99,99 of climbers can't do any of the first moves.
Can't totally blame them. They only see them all failing and don't know anything about what route is easy or too difficult. Route setters failed
pretty annoying the climbers climb at the same time this year
awful boulder setting !
White David Thompson Sandra Moore Sandra
why aren't the japanese guys competing? looks like they already have olympics ticket but on what basis?
Route setters, find a new job. Pitiful.
💪👍💯❤
Never put the place of the event into a title, it will not totally confuse everyone who is searching for climbing events.
That QR code is distracting and blocking. I can manage a google search
❤💯👍💪
Never let the routesetters cook again, 4 tops across ALL climbers and boulders and all on the same boulder, just awful.
What?
The boulders still created separation despite not being topped. I would MUCH rather see few boulders topped than too many, where podium places come down to marginal score differences like number of attempts. Been there, seen that - and nobody likes it.
Not to mention, these are world-class athletes at a world-class event. Dumbing down the competition for the sake of viewership is a backhand to the athletes and the overall progression of the sport.
Could they have been better? Yes, probably. But they could have been worse.
@@jc_walkThis argument is being beaten to death here. 4 tops out of a potential 32. 20 tops? Awesome. 14 tops? Fine, still a hard round. 7-10 tops? Brutal round, but acceptable. 4 tops (and all on the same boulder which minimizes separation) is just failure by the routesetters, in the same way as if there were 30 tops. I get that the job is hard, but this was just classic overcooking, plain and simple.
@@jc_walk without "probably". 4/32 is too much....and so many haven't even touch the top. It was a disaster, really boring and I don't remember something worst in the last 10 years.
People like you is the kind of people who blame other when u fail doing something,,, climbing is always evolving u like it or not, this time the setter just put the bar 1 step higher, and this need to be done to be able pushing max limit what human can do on climbing..
The level of the boulders wasn't fundamentally bad, the athletes just simply need more rest. This may climbs in just 4 days is unreasonable.
Agree. Just a single rest day would make a difference! At the Olympics the rounds will be separated though, which is a relief. (Semis boulder and lead on diff days and one day apart, and a rest day before the finals.)
yeah they really should change the way these events are set up, its not safe for the athlete's health, you can really risk injury when you're not rested
But route setters were aware of that schedule and adjust difficulty accordingly, no?
Can we stop with the giant QR codes? Really annoying
These are some of the best boulderers in the world. Absolute top level. What a shame the boulders were this hard. Wonder what the setters were thinking...
I think the lack of rest was the problem. 4 competition days is insane
@@joaosoares7446 that's why you are supposed to think about it when you set the finals boulders wich they didn't.
@@Psytripification id personally rather watch a comp with such hard boulders. instead of one where everyones topping the boulder
@@kelee0759 there's a spectrum between everyone topping and nobody
Let's see the routesetters climb them
crazy hard bouldering round
Brutal!
OQS Men's Boulder & Lead Finals Brutapest 2024
I surely hope we'll get better route setters for the Olympics, lol. For some reason the routes made for the women's finals tend to be way better than those for the men's finals. Not sure why. But thinking back at the previous Olympics, this seemed to be the case there as well. Kind of an embarrassing day, this was.
Those were slightly too hard boulders considering the weather, but I guess this (meh) scoring is to be expected because it separates the athletes! I'm not a big fan of this concept anyway, but it's working since two disciplines decide the medals! Let's hope that in 4 years, they will separate them completely. Sadly, it will be too late for many, especially Adam, Jacob, or Tomoa!
1:23:03 shouldn’t be a time out once you off the ground
That rule was changed a while ago. You need to top before time is out
Wohoo Megos made it!
All Boulder Tops
1:29:42 - M4/Adam Ondra
1:43:15 - M4/Sam Avezou
1:51:47 - M4/Hannes Van Duysen
1:54:38 - M4/Lee Dohyun
2:59:43 lmao
So not very enticing for people new to watching the sport. And as a newbie it’s easy to see the course planners need a new job.
Meeegoooos 🧡
2:59:41 mejdi is still sitting in third
42:24 lmao the scream😂😂😂
Poor guy just didn't have the round he wanted. 😔 Heart goes out to him.
1:43:53 🫡🫡🫡🫡 what a badass
How much strength do you want?
Boulderers: Yes
Normally I like watching these competitions. But this is kind of boring. All athletes struggling at the same problems, waiting, brushing...
Ty for posting on UA-cam Olympics Channel!!
Lopez Anna Martin Margaret Perez Thomas
Moore Barbara Thomas Dorothy Jackson Eric
Skip to 2:36:00 for lead climbing
more full live olympic games😃
Ain't no way they gave him a Z Flip for the podium selfie💀
Ugh...I can't even climb the stairs at home.😂😂
why is Lee Dohyun kinda...
Saan po makapanood ng tennis games po?
Why are they kinda...
Love it!!!!
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Awful job from the route setters here, not only frustrating for the climbers but also for the audience. Thumbs down.
Setters!!!! You have made the first 2 so far too hard.... it's also nice to see athletes make it a bit further than just the start... like cmon
Hagenes Ford
Topping the last boulder really seemed to feel cathartic
Have setters ever been accused of favouring an athlete or trying to influence the competition with their setting?
No. The team that sets comps like this consist of setters from multiple countries. Sometimes the setting might benefit taller athletes for example, but I have never heard actual accusations of setters favouring individual athletes.
Luckily, the setters are from IFCS and not the Olympic Committee, so fair play still matters! "Climbers battle against wall, not against each other"! Let's hope this mindset survives the Olympics 😅
Solid v1-v2s
Why are the scores a little less than 5 or 10? Are there deductions or how does this scoring work?
It’s minus .1 depending on how many tries it took to get to the zone or top.
also holds are worth between 1 and 4 depending on how high on the wall they are, it's not in general going to be multiples of 5. There are 10 scoring holds worth 1, then 10 worth 2, etc, for a total of 100.
@@NicholasMa42that’s not true, not all holds have a points. There are two zones and the top which are taped with points indicated
@@gregchan7976 He is correct regarding the scoring for Lead. You are correct regarding the scoring for Boulder
For bouldering: in order for a climber to gain points they must reach the specified zone (if you look closely on the markings of the holds, you can see the numbers 5, 10, and 25 marking the zones where the points can be achieved). A perfect score (5, 10, or 25) is only possible on first or "flash" attempts. Any attempt after is minus 0.1 from the total score. The one exception to this rule is if an athlete reaches a zone (say zone 5 for example) on their first attempt, they will keep that score if they are unsuccessful in attaining zone 10. The attempts will only be deducted in attempts for *zones*. If the zone was flashed the athlete will be awarded full points for that zone.
For lead it is different. Lead scoring starts after a certain point in the lead route (usually it is marked). There are different sections in the route and as the route progresses, the points per hold per section increase. That is why an athlete's score will dramatically increase as they grab one or two holds in the later sections. These sections are also usually specified with different colors per section.
Both categories (boulder and lead) are then added together for the rankings. This competition also has the added element of combining Shanghai scores, which used the same scoring systems.
It's so disappointing not seeing routes completed. And so I am navigating away from this vid cuz it's a waste of time. Leaving now, at the 1:05:45 mark.
The commentary is terrible.
Am I the only one annoyed by the over talking in the commentary booth? I’m not gonna say who but I’ll just say that I didn’t always feel this way…
Nope. They where talking way to much! At one point I turned the sound off. Which was anoying, because they were also not able to SHOW results on screen... I hope they fix this for Paris - all future comps, really. And split screens, PLEAAAAAAAAAAAASE!!
I don’t think it was that different from other finals.
Bring back @alexhonnold as a commentator