Hi my friend Spelunkard. Yes the 2 drive cycles is very important- in fact, before driving the car it had 3 DTC's but on the second drive on the highway it lit up a 4th code for the EGR valve- EGR valve is only used in highway driving and had we not done 2 consecutive highway cycles we would not have seen it come up. This is a minor code but freaked out seller enough to "unload" the car cheap before anything else showed up lol.
That was simply the best video on used car checking prior to purchase ever. I took a plethora of notes on a screen shot of the checklist at 12:55. I also caught what my family member and I missed on a buy that shouldn't have happened. They wouldn't let the engine keep running. WALK AWAY. In this case, they were hiding overheat issues. Plus, the meet was at a store instead of at the owner's home. Oh my, I remember telling her it was a red flag that they wouldn't let it keep running, never mind I was ignored, lol. My memory of this was a bit sketchy and I think it was because I was nervous and uncomfortable from a lot of pressure from the seller. I was really tempted not to share this with how I could have done better to warn her, but I think my mistakes and her mistakes could help someone else. Her reasoning for the buy was it was the best she had looked at and she was out of time. If the best you've seen is really pretty bad, you shouldn't stop looking. I told her she had a 50/50. In all the worst cars I've bought half of them weren't worth it. You shouldn't buy on a 50/50. I gave her a poor review from what I could see and she still bought so it wasn't all on me on retrospect. So lesson is, if the owner doesn't let you check hardly anything, force it as that's a deal breaker or if under the pressure it could cloud your judgement like myself, tell them it's not worth your time. (I mean everything the seller did was to create pressure, last minute the meet was moved early, there was 3 of them, and they all acted impatient.) A car buying experience shouldn't be compared to a cop show where you're meeting an informant under shady circumstances. (Back then I was just a parts changer; I can do better.)
VGS thanks as always for watching and for the constructive comments- yes the video quality is horrific, however think of it like watching the original "Wizard of OZ"- the video is poor and in B+W, the audio is mono,but damn if the content isn't brilliant and timeless!!
Dude, i totally need a mechanic like you around my way. You are awesome. Im for sure going to use your checklist. I just hope i dont miss anything. There are tons of crooked mechanics, so I like to be in the know so i dont get screwed. I took lots of notes and GOD willing I'll find something I'm trully happy with. You are a blessing. :)
OUTSTANDING VIDEOS! I was able to print off the checklists!! My son is out of State and looking for vehicle! This should help him tremendously!! Thank you Sir!!
Very nicely done 3 part inspection videos. Really helpful tests which I've noted down on my inspection list when I next look at a used car. Some people spend more time closely examining an apple at a fruit stall than they do inspecting a used car which costs $1000 upwards. Crazy. Well done Matt.
Thanks and welcome to my channel Wwong. Indeed I'll have the car this weekend to fix the problems I found- look for video "Multiple Check Engine Codes Diagnosis P0401, P0130, P0133, P0115 and Running Rich" coming this weekend.
I should have known that you're a scientist based on your channel name! Thank you so very much for these videos! I feel completely lost and dumb when it comes to cars. These videos helped build my confidence as I go out to look at a 2000 Honda Civic tonight.
Thanks for a very informative and thorough video. I will soon be entering the used car market at the bargain basement end and will be making good use of your advice.
Amazing Video! The best pre purchase inspection video I have seen so far! I have noted down lot of points and I'm sure it is gonna help me on my used car purchase.
Thanks man. This is exactly how I do every used car inspection and I have yet to have a customer get burned. Typically in the $1000-$3000 range I go through 6 cars before finding one that meets my criteria. The lower the price, the more hunting you will do because the more serious problems you will find.
Probably the best used car buying video on the youtube! Even better than Eric's or Scotty's as far as information content is concerned. I am not going to comment on the video quality though :-)
Excellent work - this can help so many. I learned quite a bit. I had a question - What about rev'ing the engine to 3,000rpm and listening and feeling.... I've been in the market and many I reved to 3000 had a deep bass noise or some had intermittent vibrations (every 2 seconds or so) - the one I bought was like silk and very quiet. Can this give an indication on how hard the engine was pushed?
Hey Matt.. Just finished watching this 3 part series. Very good stuff. The 2 drive cycle advice is awesome, as well as the instrument cluster bulb check. I do pre purchase inspections as part of my business and I find check engine light and ABS light bulbs removed from clusters all the time. Code reader will pick this up but it sure lets you know a lot about the character of the seller if the bulbs have been removed :)
Thanks Jeffrey- I too see it a lot. In fact my instrument panel bulb replacement video turns out to be a missing bulb just as you described! I routinely check used cars for people, and generally in the under $2000 range so every car always has something wrong with it, it's just a matter of sifting through the serious chaff. The car in this video is still running great. In fact as I mentioned, it was bought by a single dad down on his luck at the time- He has since been promoted at his job (partly, I would hope, due to having reliable transportation) and is now looking to sell this one towards another used car in the $5-6K range!
Thats very cool. Im sure the effort you went through to help him get a good deal and a reliable car was a big factor in him getting back on his feet! Its things like this why I love this trade so much! There are so many ways it can be rewarding. I know professional mechanics have a bad reputation, and have had for a lot of years, but technology is thinning the herd of all the hacks, and will eventually be the death knell of the "Fast Eddies Moonlight Auto" repair shops! Your videos prove it takes brains and passion to diagnose and fix cars right! Keep the videos coming and keep helping people avoid the rip offs!
You are a prince among men my good sir. The hat flip before pimpin clearly shows you also possess high street cred. One little seemingly stupid thing I have done for some of my customers is ask them what station the radio was on or what music/cd was in the stereo when they looked at the car initially. If it is first inspection and I am with them I check this as well - Why? If the seller of the car is a 55 year old male, and the radio is set to the night club music station or Nicki Minaj is in the CD slot, I suspect the car was driven by his son/daughter or someone younger. I might know this because he may have told me, but its a check that has no tool other than your mind. Stay gold.
Great 3part video! I'm looking at a 2005 infiniti g35 coupe with 40, 000 miles for just under 15, 000 $. I plan to run all these test as mentioned in video. Is there anything particular I should look for condition wise in this model mechanically being it is 10 years old besides all of the tips from the videos? Such as common problems you may have seen with these cars. Thanks!
That's a good tip about using two drive cycles. Also, a great tip about never doing money before the title. I guess I'm gullible enough to assume that sellers would be as honest as I am. But, I've been wrong, twice before. The biggest mistake I made was not checking a car fax. The seller was an honest looking Mormon boy, and he concealed the vehicle history. I probably would still have bought the vehicle, but that mistake was worth more than $1000.
salvaged titles are common here in north texas because of how frequently we get hit with hail. having said that, if someone is trying to sell you a salvaged vehicle and saying it's due to hail you want to be sure to validate their claim because it's also an easy way to get someone to ignore a salvaged title. a lot of people will take their insurance money to trade in their cars after a hail storm, so sometimes this is a great time to look for a used car if you're in the market for a used car that works well but looks a little beat up.
LOL, I imagine the same thing. Fortunately no flooding here in North TX, but that doesn't mean they wont be sold up here. I would think flood damage is about the worst type of salvage possible
Awesome vid. Any chance I could get a copy of your checklist? I have one myself but would love to see what yours looks like. If not its ok, just figured I'd ask and can't figure out how to send a PM on here.
Exellient. have 2008 chevy colbalt Lt. could you show how to change coolant. mine has never been changed since buying in 2010 and has over 100.000 miles.
Thanks for all your great videos! In your salvage yard engine video, you looked for metal flake in the oil. Any reason you don't suggest that for a used car? Would the amount of wear necessary for metal flake mean that audible knocks are inevitable?
It's because usually there is no way the owner would let you drain some oil from the pan- otherwise indeed I do that as a regular peactice if the car is in my garage. And absolutely- metal flake is fatal- period. You have to see it to recognize it and unfortunately none of the videos I show this in were in HD at the time. It's more like glitter- its very, very distinctive. It's not like prospecting for gold flakes lol- it looks exactly like silver and gold glitter is evenly blended in the oil- looks like the milky way. See that and you are done- severe engine damage is occuring and if it isn't knocking yet, it will very soon.
:) I've seen it on a motorcycle I owned, sad day. I needed your "salvage yard engine" video then, but I didn't find that until recently. I am shopping for a used car currently and will print out a large list before heading out to inspect. Thanks!
I bought a van once, the guy quickly flashed the title in my face. Turns out, it was a reconstructed vehicle. It must have been broadsided by a bus. The whole left side was welded, and the bondo was 2 inches thick. Glad I only paid $500 for it.
Excellent series, I am a new subscriber and working my way through all the videos. The one tip I would add is related to using a scan tool. I never trust the fact that I don't see a CEL or SES light since most cars will clear the codes if you disconnect the negative battery cable. However, that also resets all the emissions Readiness Flags. So if you connect a scan tool that can read those flags and several are not ready, it's a good indication that the computer was cleared and the seller is hiding something.
Absolutely correct Waz. I assume most people don't have a scantool but of course if you have one, checking system readiness or a code P1000 (recent battery disconnect) is good. This is why I say to do TWO drive cycles with the car- it greatly increases the chance of meeting the PCM's criteria for throwing a code if the owner reset the check engine light recently. Most codes need two successive failure to throw the code. It's why many people have a check engine light come on after the test drive on their way home!
thanks for the video. I try and bring a buddy with me to sit in the back or have the owner drive and I sit in the back to feel for any wobbling etc. And, I follow the car to see if there is evidence of Dog Tracking A Visual Explanation of "Dog Tracking" In A Vehicle | BestTireAndWheelShop.com I park on a downhill and engage/release the e-brake to make sure it works and doesn't stick. Feel the wheel bearings after a drive and make sure they are not hot. If possible, coast down a parkade with the engine off to hear any rattling, ticking.
@@SchrodingersBox ive learned alot from watching your and scanner danners videos. Thanks for all the information you put out and responding to my questions
Great videos - learned a lot as I am looking to buy used vehicle right now. The only thing I didn't like about these 3 videos about this car is how biased you seemed from the start and throughout the inspection on finding something wrong with the vehicle in order to help out "your customer" - the person looking to buy the vehicle. You know, sellers are people too and they may have families or bills to take care of also - something people looking to buy seem to forget when they try to get that product they want for as low as they possible can. If you are starting out with that attitude/mentality - which I understand on some level as I imagine you are being paid by the potential buyer looking to figure out if the car is any good not the seller - the concern is you might unfairly affect the outcome by how you communicate issues or concerns about the vehicle (consciously or subconsciously), as might have happened here with the vehicle being sold at almost half the asking price. I'm not saying the vehicles was not worth that amount or that it didn't have those issues that you found, just pointing out that maybe your goal should be to do the inspection more objectively and be fair to both sides rather than the buyer (whose story you might know a little better) or whomever might be paying you.
If the sellers paid me for my inspection, I would be biased on their end by ensuring the vehicle was compliant with expectations of a customer for the lowest price possible.
@@SchrodingersBox Thanks for the response. Do you think it makes more sense to just simply do the car inspection and explain the outcome rather than be biased towards one side or the other in what you think the final price should be?
Its not up to me to determine what the final price should be.... that is for the seller to determine either way. My job is provide the data relevant to drawing that determination.
@@SchrodingersBox loving the channel man...thinking about getting into flipping cars not for the money... just for the fun and getting to learn how to repair cars....
For that price I feel like you being unfair to the seller. The car is old you expecting everything to work and be in perfect condition? And with everything working you still wanted to pay $900 dollars completely low ball him for a working reliable car? A little unrealistic for a perfect car for that price
A buyer is never unfair to a seller because the seller has no obligation AND the seller has all the information the buyer does not have available. As buyer's representative my obligation is to the buyer, not the seller. Seller does not have to accept deal if it's unfair.
No it doesn't. It's not quid pro quo. THINK.... the buyer is taking all the risk. The seller is NOT taking risk. The seller ALWAYS knows the precise value he is getting from the transaction. The buyer has no way of knowing for sure he's getting the anticipated value. Once the seller gets the payment it doesn't suddenly lose value when it shows to have a blown head gasket, or be unregisterable, or have undisclosed mechanical issues. The Buyer has all the risk so therefore obligation is on the BUYER. The seller does not have to sell if he thinks it unfair, the Buyer doesn't have that luxury because it becomes unfair only after the sale when the value is not as was advertised. If a used car came with a 3 year bumper to bumper warranty or full refund policy, I'd agree with you. But a used car sale is Caveat Emptor.
Hi my friend Spelunkard. Yes the 2 drive cycles is very important- in fact, before driving the car it had 3 DTC's but on the second drive on the highway it lit up a 4th code for the EGR valve- EGR valve is only used in highway driving and had we not done 2 consecutive highway cycles we would not have seen it come up. This is a minor code but freaked out seller enough to "unload" the car cheap before anything else showed up lol.
That was simply the best video on used car checking prior to purchase ever. I took a plethora of notes on a screen shot of the checklist at 12:55.
I also caught what my family member and I missed on a buy that shouldn't have happened. They wouldn't let the engine keep running. WALK AWAY. In this case, they were hiding overheat issues. Plus, the meet was at a store instead of at the owner's home. Oh my, I remember telling her it was a red flag that they wouldn't let it keep running, never mind I was ignored, lol.
My memory of this was a bit sketchy and I think it was because I was nervous and uncomfortable from a lot of pressure from the seller. I was really tempted not to share this with how I could have done better to warn her, but I think my mistakes and her mistakes could help someone else.
Her reasoning for the buy was it was the best she had looked at and she was out of time. If the best you've seen is really pretty bad, you shouldn't stop looking. I told her she had a 50/50. In all the worst cars I've bought half of them weren't worth it.
You shouldn't buy on a 50/50.
I gave her a poor review from what I could see and she still bought so it wasn't all on me on retrospect.
So lesson is, if the owner doesn't let you check hardly anything, force it as that's a deal breaker or if under the pressure it could cloud your judgement like myself, tell them it's not worth your time.
(I mean everything the seller did was to create pressure, last minute the meet was moved early, there was 3 of them, and they all acted impatient.)
A car buying experience shouldn't be compared to a cop show where you're meeting an informant under shady circumstances. (Back then I was just a parts changer; I can do better.)
VGS thanks as always for watching and for the constructive comments- yes the video quality is horrific, however think of it like watching the original "Wizard of OZ"- the video is poor and in B+W, the audio is mono,but damn if the content isn't brilliant and timeless!!
Dude, i totally need a mechanic like you around my way. You are awesome. Im for sure going to use your checklist. I just hope i dont miss anything. There are tons of crooked mechanics, so I like to be in the know so i dont get screwed. I took lots of notes and GOD willing I'll find something I'm trully happy with. You are a blessing. :)
OUTSTANDING VIDEOS! I was able to print off the checklists!! My son is out of State and looking for vehicle! This should help him tremendously!! Thank you Sir!!
Very nicely done 3 part inspection videos. Really helpful tests which I've noted down on my inspection list when I next look at a used car. Some people spend more time closely examining an apple at a fruit stall than they do inspecting a used car which costs $1000 upwards. Crazy. Well done Matt.
It's 4:45 AM and I'm heartily laughing at "time to go big pimpin'. Thanks for the informative video series.
Lots of great tips. Looking forward to seeing you fix the problems that you diagnosed. Thanks for posting.
Thanks and welcome to my channel Wwong. Indeed I'll have the car this weekend to fix the problems I found- look for video "Multiple Check Engine Codes Diagnosis P0401, P0130, P0133, P0115 and Running Rich" coming this weekend.
You are so meticulous in your checks. Thank you very much. Well done to you.
This dude is really obsessed with his safety. Good thorough guide btw.
I should have known that you're a scientist based on your channel name! Thank you so very much for these videos! I feel completely lost and dumb when it comes to cars. These videos helped build my confidence as I go out to look at a 2000 Honda Civic tonight.
Very thorough series! Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
...excellent job...very thorough inspection...thanks...
I love your videos don't stop making them!
Great set of how to inspect videos. I am getting in the used car business and I will use these videos to help me inspect cars at the auction.
Thanks man ! Probably the best inspection instructions !
Thanks for a very informative and thorough video. I will soon be entering the used car market at the bargain basement end and will be making good use of your advice.
Amazing Video! The best pre purchase inspection video I have seen so far! I have noted down lot of points and I'm sure it is gonna help me on my used car purchase.
Thanks man. This is exactly how I do every used car inspection and I have yet to have a customer get burned. Typically in the $1000-$3000 range I go through 6 cars before finding one that meets my criteria. The lower the price, the more hunting you will do because the more serious problems you will find.
Great video. Thank you!
Probably the best used car buying video on the youtube! Even better than Eric's or Scotty's as far as information content is concerned. I am not going to comment on the video quality though :-)
Excellent work - this can help so many. I learned quite a bit. I had a question - What about rev'ing the engine to 3,000rpm and listening and feeling.... I've been in the market and many I reved to 3000 had a deep bass noise or some had intermittent vibrations (every 2 seconds or so) - the one I bought was like silk and very quiet. Can this give an indication on how hard the engine was pushed?
Hey Matt.. Just finished watching this 3 part series. Very good stuff. The 2 drive cycle advice is awesome, as well as the instrument cluster bulb check. I do pre purchase inspections as part of my business and I find check engine light and ABS light bulbs removed from clusters all the time. Code reader will pick this up but it sure lets you know a lot about the character of the seller if the bulbs have been removed :)
Thanks Jeffrey- I too see it a lot. In fact my instrument panel bulb replacement video turns out to be a missing bulb just as you described!
I routinely check used cars for people, and generally in the under $2000 range so every car always has something wrong with it, it's just a matter of sifting through the serious chaff. The car in this video is still running great. In fact as I mentioned, it was bought by a single dad down on his luck at the time- He has since been promoted at his job (partly, I would hope, due to having reliable transportation) and is now looking to sell this one towards another used car in the $5-6K range!
Thats very cool. Im sure the effort you went through to help him get a good deal and a reliable car was a big factor in him getting back on his feet! Its things like this why I love this trade so much! There are so many ways it can be rewarding. I know professional mechanics have a bad reputation, and have had for a lot of years, but technology is thinning the herd of all the hacks, and will eventually be the death knell of the "Fast Eddies Moonlight Auto" repair shops! Your videos prove it takes brains and passion to diagnose and fix cars right! Keep the videos coming and keep helping people avoid the rip offs!
Great Tutorial!...Thank You
Great job man. Really informative. Thanks!
You are a prince among men my good sir. The hat flip before pimpin clearly shows you also possess high street cred.
One little seemingly stupid thing I have done for some of my customers is ask them what station the radio was on or what music/cd was in the stereo when they looked at the car initially. If it is first inspection and I am with them I check this as well - Why?
If the seller of the car is a 55 year old male, and the radio is set to the night club music station or Nicki Minaj is in the CD slot, I suspect the car was driven by his son/daughter or someone younger. I might know this because he may have told me, but its a check that has no tool other than your mind.
Stay gold.
You are awesome man! I have a big checklist for this weekend!
Thanks a lot mate, that made my day !!!
Great 3part video!
I'm looking at a 2005 infiniti g35 coupe with 40, 000 miles for just under 15, 000 $. I plan to run all these test as mentioned in video. Is there anything particular I should look for condition wise in this model mechanically being it is 10 years old besides all of the tips from the videos? Such as common problems you may have seen with these cars.
Thanks!
That's a good tip about using two drive cycles. Also, a great tip about never doing money before the title. I guess I'm gullible enough to assume that sellers would be as honest as I am. But, I've been wrong, twice before.
The biggest mistake I made was not checking a car fax. The seller was an honest looking Mormon boy, and he concealed the vehicle history. I probably would still have bought the vehicle, but that mistake was worth more than $1000.
salvaged titles are common here in north texas because of how frequently we get hit with hail. having said that, if someone is trying to sell you a salvaged vehicle and saying it's due to hail you want to be sure to validate their claim because it's also an easy way to get someone to ignore a salvaged title. a lot of people will take their insurance money to trade in their cars after a hail storm, so sometimes this is a great time to look for a used car if you're in the market for a used car that works well but looks a little beat up.
I imagine there will also be hundreds more after the floods recently too!
LOL, I imagine the same thing. Fortunately no flooding here in North TX, but that doesn't mean they wont be sold up here. I would think flood damage is about the worst type of salvage possible
Awesome vid. Any chance I could get a copy of your checklist? I have one myself but would love to see what yours looks like. If not its ok, just figured I'd ask and can't figure out how to send a PM on here.
Tyler Antonietti Go to my channel home page by clicking on my name, click the "about" tab and then choose Send Message
The check list in the end is quite useful. Is there anywhere for downloading the list? Thank you a lot. :)
Send me a PM through the channel and I will forward you my list in PDF format
Schrodingers Box I would like a PDF of the list as well. How may I get one?
Thanks a lot. It is an amazing video
Exellient. have 2008 chevy colbalt Lt. could you show how to change coolant. mine has never been changed since buying in 2010 and has over 100.000 miles.
I don't really do basic maintenance on this channel sorry. Lots of channels will show how to change coolant though.
It was useful information.
Red border on a title. Never heard of that one. Thanks for sharing.
thank u for awesome video!!!
Thanks for all your great videos! In your salvage yard engine video, you looked for metal flake in the oil. Any reason you don't suggest that for a used car? Would the amount of wear necessary for metal flake mean that audible knocks are inevitable?
It's because usually there is no way the owner would let you drain some oil from the pan- otherwise indeed I do that as a regular peactice if the car is in my garage. And absolutely- metal flake is fatal- period. You have to see it to recognize it and unfortunately none of the videos I show this in were in HD at the time. It's more like glitter- its very, very distinctive. It's not like prospecting for gold flakes lol- it looks exactly like silver and gold glitter is evenly blended in the oil- looks like the milky way. See that and you are done- severe engine damage is occuring and if it isn't knocking yet, it will very soon.
:) I've seen it on a motorcycle I owned, sad day. I needed your "salvage yard engine" video then, but I didn't find that until recently. I am shopping for a used car currently and will print out a large list before heading out to inspect. Thanks!
I bought a van once, the guy quickly flashed the title in my face. Turns out, it was a reconstructed vehicle. It must have been broadsided by a bus. The whole left side was welded, and the bondo was 2 inches thick. Glad I only paid $500 for it.
How about looking UNDER the car? Leaks, shocks, U-joints, etc?
Excellent series, I am a new subscriber and working my way through all the videos. The one tip I would add is related to using a scan tool. I never trust the fact that I don't see a CEL or SES light since most cars will clear the codes if you disconnect the negative battery cable. However, that also resets all the emissions Readiness Flags. So if you connect a scan tool that can read those flags and several are not ready, it's a good indication that the computer was cleared and the seller is hiding something.
Absolutely correct Waz. I assume most people don't have a scantool but of course if you have one, checking system readiness or a code P1000 (recent battery disconnect) is good.
This is why I say to do TWO drive cycles with the car- it greatly increases the chance of meeting the PCM's criteria for throwing a code if the owner reset the check engine light recently. Most codes need two successive failure to throw the code. It's why many people have a check engine light come on after the test drive on their way home!
thanks for the video. I try and bring a buddy with me to sit in the back or have the owner drive and I sit in the back to feel for any wobbling etc. And, I follow the car to see if there is evidence of Dog Tracking A Visual Explanation of "Dog Tracking" In A Vehicle | BestTireAndWheelShop.com
I park on a downhill and engage/release the e-brake to make sure it works and doesn't stick. Feel the wheel bearings after a drive and make sure they are not hot. If possible, coast down a parkade with the engine off to hear any rattling, ticking.
Correction.....You CAN license and drive a car with a salvage title.
All 3 of your videos have no sound on my end
They are mono because they are old. The sound does work.
@@SchrodingersBox ive learned alot from watching your and scanner danners videos. Thanks for all the information you put out and responding to my questions
Great videos - learned a lot as I am looking to buy used vehicle right now.
The only thing I didn't like about these 3 videos about this car is how biased you seemed from the start and throughout the inspection on finding something wrong with the vehicle in order to help out "your customer" - the person looking to buy the vehicle.
You know, sellers are people too and they may have families or bills to take care of also - something people looking to buy seem to forget when they try to get that product they want for as low as they possible can. If you are starting out with that attitude/mentality - which I understand on some level as I imagine you are being paid by the potential buyer looking to figure out if the car is any good not the seller - the concern is you might unfairly affect the outcome by how you communicate issues or concerns about the vehicle (consciously or subconsciously), as might have happened here with the vehicle being sold at almost half the asking price.
I'm not saying the vehicles was not worth that amount or that it didn't have those issues that you found, just pointing out that maybe your goal should be to do the inspection more objectively and be fair to both sides rather than the buyer (whose story you might know a little better) or whomever might be paying you.
If the sellers paid me for my inspection, I would be biased on their end by ensuring the vehicle was compliant with expectations of a customer for the lowest price possible.
@@SchrodingersBox Thanks for the response. Do you think it makes more sense to just simply do the car inspection and explain the outcome rather than be biased towards one side or the other in what you think the final price should be?
Its not up to me to determine what the final price should be.... that is for the seller to determine either way. My job is provide the data relevant to drawing that determination.
Oh to have 2013 back. $900 for a used car. Now $900 can get me 10 tanks of gas.
Hahaha so true!!!! man I forgot all about this video. one of my first ones.
@@SchrodingersBox loving the channel man...thinking about getting into flipping cars not for the money... just for the fun and getting to learn how to repair cars....
For that price I feel like you being unfair to the seller. The car is old you expecting everything to work and be in perfect condition? And with everything working you still wanted to pay $900 dollars completely low ball him for a working reliable car? A little unrealistic for a perfect car for that price
A buyer is never unfair to a seller because the seller has no obligation AND the seller has all the information the buyer does not have available. As buyer's representative my obligation is to the buyer, not the seller. Seller does not have to accept deal if it's unfair.
@@SchrodingersBox good point but it goes vice versa
No it doesn't. It's not quid pro quo. THINK.... the buyer is taking all the risk. The seller is NOT taking risk. The seller ALWAYS knows the precise value he is getting from the transaction. The buyer has no way of knowing for sure he's getting the anticipated value. Once the seller gets the payment it doesn't suddenly lose value when it shows to have a blown head gasket, or be unregisterable, or have undisclosed mechanical issues.
The Buyer has all the risk so therefore obligation is on the BUYER. The seller does not have to sell if he thinks it unfair, the Buyer doesn't have that luxury because it becomes unfair only after the sale when the value is not as was advertised.
If a used car came with a 3 year bumper to bumper warranty or full refund policy, I'd agree with you. But a used car sale is Caveat Emptor.