hey mukka, I've noticed we have the same airbrush (Ultra 2024) the side bits of the noozle are recessed to guide your brush to the needle tip so you dont damage it as you could at @2.42 have a read of the sleeve it came with and it will highlight this for you I believe
Congrats on getting the army done! Those Penitent Blades really do look particularly fantastic. Thank you for leaving your mistakes in. I definitely learn just as much from seeing people's mistakes than seeing their wins. I'm a big CoP and Tamiya fan too. Regarding the cloak: yeah, it's really tricky to get non-airbrushed parts to mesh with airbrushed parts. I think the key is either wet blend or graze using a wet palette to get those nice fades. GW-style edge highlighting never looks right. It's all about volumes and light.
Please give tamiya masking tape a try next time you need to mask straight lines! I think it'll help establish the line, and then you can lay the masking putty over top.
Really enjoyed this it reminds me of the way warhammer youtube was maybe 8-10 years ago when it was people just vlogging their hobby experience but with all the polish and professionalism of modern youtube.
big hearty laugh when you pointed out you'd glued the terminators on but printed off base toppers - exactly the sort of thing I'd be doing in my excitement haha
Thanks so much for doing a video that shows the trials and tribulations. I've tried oil washes a lot and still struggle with the consistency and most videos on it treat it as a given. I'm going to try panel liner so at least the consistency is right out of the bottle.
Try thinning your AK acrylics purely with Vallejo Flow Improver. I've seen scale modellers thin acrylics this way to avoid tip dry. It will make it dry slower, but also should make them spray a lot easier
I'm a BIG 3rd gen fan, but vallejo air is just super convenient and *works*. For the oil wash, I just prefer pre-mixed enamels for convenience. The AK Wargame Washes are my current go to. Really great video and army. Love it!
I use Vallejo liquid mask on my Howling Griffons. It's paint on, so it can be a little quicker and it helps get crisper lines. I appreciate you showing your painting journey, including your pitfalls. Your end result is looking pretty good from this seat. Thanks for the video Pat.
Nice video, glad to see you leaning into this type of content! You should try the new Army Painter Fanatic washes, they're amazing. There's also a new product from Monument Hobbies called Newish I believe and supposedly it lets you make acrylic washes that work the same as oil washes. I'll be trying t out soon! You should absolutely wear a respirator when using that enamel tamiya paint though!
Great video as always from TPP. Two tips i'd give you would be, you dont need to mask as much if you only part assemble the models and for the trigger, just use WD40. Make sure to take the trigger out first, don't spray into the airbrush itself.
I got my self an airbrush but just picked up a cheap £20 one and a decent compressor. I was like let's just raw dog it and if I end up breaking the airbrush it's cheap to replace. I have learned so much this year and my skill has drastically improved as well. I'm looking at probably getting a better airbrush next year. But my cheap airbrush is still going strong and I don't think I will ever get rid of it as it's just such a workhorse.
I hear how good cheap airbrushes are quite a lot. Can't argue with super cheap prices! I really enjoy the usability of the ultra in comparison to others I've used though. I feel like it's geared to my skill level.
Did you check if you can adjust the trigger stiffness? There should be a screw to adjust the valve stiffness. At least that's how the top end H&S work. You'll see a notch for a flat head screwdriver on the air valve where the air line attaches. Anti-clockwise to soften. Clockwise to stiffen. Also, a tiny bit of Badger Needle Juice on the moving bits goes a long way to smooth operation of any airbrush.
I use silly putty for a lot of my masking, which is very similar to what you used, and has the same drooping issue over time. Getting sharp, straight lines with a putty is almost impossible though, and I always use a thin strip of Taminya yellow masking tape for the edge, then overlap it with silly putty to cover up the rest of the area. For your oil washes, always go a little thicker than you think you'll need to keep it dark and from running out of the recesses. If you use a long, thin bristled brush, there's almost no clean up required afterward because you can get the tip of the brush right into the recess and long bristles let a good amount of the wash to flow out. I've never used a Harder & Steenbeck, but when my Iwata trigger gets more difficult to move a drop of lubricant takes care of it.
With all the gripes you point out… this painting is ridiculously incredible. It’s like you’ve took the bar for beginners and raised it to pro level. I mean, if this is _beginner level_ …things are looking promising for beginners!
AK paints are fine through an airbrush, just thin them with Vallejo thinner Also use a rubber sculpting tool to manipulate the putty I too have just got that airbrush and it’s a beast
Hi Pat I have recently bought the ultra airbrush, what compressor have you been using? I have followed Henry's deathwing scheme using dry brushes but now want to try the whiter scheme with the airbrush
I've got a sparmax, unsure of the size, got it bundled in with a squidmar brush a while ago. I've no complaints with it but don't know enough to recommend etc
I'm kinda lucky since my dad taught me how to airbrush to help him do his model tanks, which I'm told is not a traditional teenage girl sort of hobby but has really helped my 40k addiction. The new HS airbrushes are brilliant for starting off though, and it's good to see a relatively inexperienced airbrush user progress so well.
As far as the stuff trigger most airbrushes have a way to adjust the trigger pull maybe check your manual or try putting a drop of needle oil in the trigger slot might help loosen it up a bit if it’s binding.
I definitely don't feel confident pulling everything apart and fiddling. From chatting to H&S it's designed to be a bit stiffer on purpose, easier to control. It's not sticking or anything so I can live with it. A minor gripe as I mentioned.
As someone painting Deathwing right now myself, I really like how they all look together, though I would have suggested taking the armor color up another notch in brightness. But otherwise great job!
A tip for tip dry, get an old soft/extra soft tooth brush, and get some window cleaner on it, just run the tip over it from time to time, then blow that tip dry of, good as new
It was really cool to meet you at Gen Con! I just dropped by the booth generally like so many others. But it was awesome to get to chat with you about brushes and airbrushes. Let me know if you guys ever get a H&S cross going! I’ll be there, I’m still waiting for their damn new infinity
For masking you should try silly putty. That may sound ridiculous but it’s conventionally regarded as one of the best masking materials and it’s cheap and non messy
@@thepaintingphase I did not have that issue but you’re probably right to be safe. I have seen a lot of people using silly putty, perhaps that would be lighter on the paint than bluetac
Next time, save yourself a few steps and use Molotow's neon pink from the bottom, white from the top. Molotow's acrylic range works like a primer. I've been using this method with oils and it's the most durable paint range I own. No chipping or peeling whatsoever even with aggressive rubbing
@@thepaintingphase figuring out that I could use the first airbrush layer / color as a primer was the big game changer. I almost never prime black now unless I want those really deep shadows in the recesses.
I would recommend trying no gloss varnish before trying to panel line or localize shade with oils. Works better for me personally as I really dislike oil runs.
The one tip I have for oil washes is to basically just use them how you'd use streaking grime. Just make sure it's not too thin and they do act basically the same. Don't use cotton buds because fuck me you'll never get rid of all the loose hairs on the model, just use makeup spunges or wipes or whatever the hell they're called.
@@thepaintingphase You should definitely try it. Also, don't get discouraged too quickly with it. I put a layer, and thought, there's nothing there. I did 3 layers and let it dry in between, and the result was perfect for me. and it's easier to apply that putty, since you're using a brush.
airbrushes are like motorbikes. Every one likes to think they are better than their bike but really the limiting factor is always the monkey at the controls. If you think you have out grown the ultra quicky, welcome to the peak of the dunning Kruger effect.
You definitely lose some of the paint properties, it won't pool through and airbrush, but with a red/white or pink/white undercoat the white turns yellow and the pink turns orange. It's my favourite way to paint yellow. Could all be done with spray cans and a brush too.
@@thepaintingphase in oils there is student and artist grade. Think of student grade as craft oil paint. It's lower quality pigment and fillers. It breaks much easier making washes gritty. Usually it comes in sets on the internet. For mini painting: it's doing oils on hard mode. Higher quality artist grade is a joy student grade is a job. Mixed with a medium you can still glaze a bit but best to just use that stuff for bases and terrain. Oils are a new skill to learn, but it's worth the effort.
@@thepaintingphase nah i was hestitant in the beginning as well but loved it after trying them out. Get the ones from tamiya - they have like a waxy surface on them that prevents bleeding and they are low tack too so you dont pull up paints when peeling them off.
Please wear some kind of mask. Seriously, the paint may not be toxic but atomized particles in your lungs will hurt you. Not wearing any protection while airbrushing sets a bad example. Nice termies though
Head to squarespace.com/thepaintingphase to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code THEPAINTINGPHASE
I love this series and the process of showing for us mere mortals, what actually works and doesnt. Thank you !
You are most welcome, thank you for watching 😊
I appreciate the experimentation in your painting videos Pat.
I appreciate you for watching ☺️
Your camera angles and production are top. A really enjoyable video. I look forward to part 2.
I like your approach to share your experiences on your "exploratory" way onwards to glory. Thank you. Keep going steady onwards
hey mukka, I've noticed we have the same airbrush (Ultra 2024) the side bits of the noozle are recessed to guide your brush to the needle tip so you dont damage it as you could at @2.42 have a read of the sleeve it came with and it will highlight this for you I believe
Congrats on getting the army done! Those Penitent Blades really do look particularly fantastic. Thank you for leaving your mistakes in. I definitely learn just as much from seeing people's mistakes than seeing their wins. I'm a big CoP and Tamiya fan too.
Regarding the cloak: yeah, it's really tricky to get non-airbrushed parts to mesh with airbrushed parts. I think the key is either wet blend or graze using a wet palette to get those nice fades. GW-style edge highlighting never looks right. It's all about volumes and light.
You dropped this king 👑
You’re an inspiration. Keep up the great work!
I don't think I deserve that accolade but thanks for watching!
Please give tamiya masking tape a try next time you need to mask straight lines! I think it'll help establish the line, and then you can lay the masking putty over top.
Adequate reveal was hilarious! Great job on the paint job! They look great!
I'm the most adequate person to ever adequate. Thanks 🙏
Really enjoyed this it reminds me of the way warhammer youtube was maybe 8-10 years ago when it was people just vlogging their hobby experience but with all the polish and professionalism of modern youtube.
big hearty laugh when you pointed out you'd glued the terminators on but printed off base toppers - exactly the sort of thing I'd be doing in my excitement haha
Force of habit! Unrelated, want to buy some base toppers? 🤣
@@thepaintingphase Fun fact: I might have 20 of my own; unused, for no reason at all. :D
Excellent production and incredibly relatable. I really appreciate your videos. Make more please.
Thanks very much! I absolutely am!
Hey Pat, that open bottle of Corona hand stabilizer is meant to be drinked before diddling with the brushes!
Btw great and entertaining video!
Bang up job mate. Keep painting.
Thanks so much for doing a video that shows the trials and tribulations. I've tried oil washes a lot and still struggle with the consistency and most videos on it treat it as a given. I'm going to try panel liner so at least the consistency is right out of the bottle.
You’re very welcome. Thanks for the input, much appreciated.
Great video man, really enjoyed watching
Try thinning your AK acrylics purely with Vallejo Flow Improver. I've seen scale modellers thin acrylics this way to avoid tip dry. It will make it dry slower, but also should make them spray a lot easier
I'll give it a go, never heard of doing that before but sounds interesting. Pretty sure I've got flow improver somewhere...
@@thepaintingphase Barbatos Rex did a video on it. He's a BIG airbrush guy.
legend. love the videos of you guys hobbying
I'm a BIG 3rd gen fan, but vallejo air is just super convenient and *works*.
For the oil wash, I just prefer pre-mixed enamels for convenience. The AK Wargame Washes are my current go to.
Really great video and army. Love it!
I do have some of the washes, I'll actually try them! ❤️
I use Vallejo liquid mask on my Howling Griffons. It's paint on, so it can be a little quicker and it helps get crisper lines. I appreciate you showing your painting journey, including your pitfalls. Your end result is looking pretty good from this seat. Thanks for the video Pat.
Thanks so much for the tips and for watching!
These videos are always great
Really like the Penitent Blades. Impressive work!
Any reveal of a painted army is Grand in my book!
Good job - loved to see your journey 👍
Thanks David!
Those terminators came out looking great mate!
Thanks!
Amazing video mate. This seems like it was an ordeal. But the result is incredible!
Fanx babes ❤️
Great video, Pat. I really like the learning along with you approach
Thanks! Lots more planned 😀
@@thepaintingphase we might just have to get together on one in the future!
Nice video, glad to see you leaning into this type of content!
You should try the new Army Painter Fanatic washes, they're amazing. There's also a new product from Monument Hobbies called Newish I believe and supposedly it lets you make acrylic washes that work the same as oil washes. I'll be trying t out soon!
You should absolutely wear a respirator when using that enamel tamiya paint though!
Some good food for thought there, thanks so much.
Great video as always from TPP. Two tips i'd give you would be, you dont need to mask as much if you only part assemble the models and for the trigger, just use WD40. Make sure to take the trigger out first, don't spray into the airbrush itself.
Great comment! Thanks so much.
Awesome video! I'm looking forward to trying the tamiya paints. Probably worth wearing a mask if using them through an airbrush though 😉
Badass man they look great
Love the look of the Penitent Blades. 👍🤘
Thanks! I think I prefer the deathwing now but do have a soft spot for them!
I got my self an airbrush but just picked up a cheap £20 one and a decent compressor.
I was like let's just raw dog it and if I end up breaking the airbrush it's cheap to replace.
I have learned so much this year and my skill has drastically improved as well. I'm looking at probably getting a better airbrush next year.
But my cheap airbrush is still going strong and I don't think I will ever get rid of it as it's just such a workhorse.
I hear how good cheap airbrushes are quite a lot. Can't argue with super cheap prices! I really enjoy the usability of the ultra in comparison to others I've used though. I feel like it's geared to my skill level.
Did you check if you can adjust the trigger stiffness? There should be a screw to adjust the valve stiffness. At least that's how the top end H&S work. You'll see a notch for a flat head screwdriver on the air valve where the air line attaches. Anti-clockwise to soften. Clockwise to stiffen. Also, a tiny bit of Badger Needle Juice on the moving bits goes a long way to smooth operation of any airbrush.
I use silly putty for a lot of my masking, which is very similar to what you used, and has the same drooping issue over time. Getting sharp, straight lines with a putty is almost impossible though, and I always use a thin strip of Taminya yellow masking tape for the edge, then overlap it with silly putty to cover up the rest of the area.
For your oil washes, always go a little thicker than you think you'll need to keep it dark and from running out of the recesses. If you use a long, thin bristled brush, there's almost no clean up required afterward because you can get the tip of the brush right into the recess and long bristles let a good amount of the wash to flow out.
I've never used a Harder & Steenbeck, but when my Iwata trigger gets more difficult to move a drop of lubricant takes care of it.
Someone mentioned silly putty earlier, I'll have to get some. I need to get a brush like you recommend, I'll have a search.
Could you lube the trigger with something like sewing machine or bike chain oil ?
Well done!
With all the gripes you point out… this painting is ridiculously incredible. It’s like you’ve took the bar for beginners and raised it to pro level. I mean, if this is _beginner level_ …things are looking promising for beginners!
nice. that must feel satisfying.
great result
yay painting vid
Great effort there!
AK paints are fine through an airbrush, just thin them with Vallejo thinner
Also use a rubber sculpting tool to manipulate the putty
I too have just got that airbrush and it’s a beast
Hi Pat I have recently bought the ultra airbrush, what compressor have you been using? I have followed Henry's deathwing scheme using dry brushes but now want to try the whiter scheme with the airbrush
I've got a sparmax, unsure of the size, got it bundled in with a squidmar brush a while ago. I've no complaints with it but don't know enough to recommend etc
I've started my first army and decided to also learn how to airbrush with them straight of the bat. Loving the process so far.
Thanks! 🙏
I'm kinda lucky since my dad taught me how to airbrush to help him do his model tanks, which I'm told is not a traditional teenage girl sort of hobby but has really helped my 40k addiction.
The new HS airbrushes are brilliant for starting off though, and it's good to see a relatively inexperienced airbrush user progress so well.
As far as the stuff trigger most airbrushes have a way to adjust the trigger pull maybe check your manual or try putting a drop of needle oil in the trigger slot might help loosen it up a bit if it’s binding.
I definitely don't feel confident pulling everything apart and fiddling. From chatting to H&S it's designed to be a bit stiffer on purpose, easier to control. It's not sticking or anything so I can live with it. A minor gripe as I mentioned.
As someone painting Deathwing right now myself, I really like how they all look together, though I would have suggested taking the armor color up another notch in brightness. But otherwise great job!
Much appreciated!
Love the ‘adequate reveal’ 😂👍
17:34 XD the jumpscare shot
You know it baby!
Had to rewind to find Pat!!
I am sneaky 🥷
I'd be surprised if you can't loosen that trigger spring somewhere. I'm often surprised though. Good job with the terminators dude.
A tip for tip dry, get an old soft/extra soft tooth brush, and get some window cleaner on it, just run the tip over it from time to time, then blow that tip dry of, good as new
Window cleaner? I'd have had no idea, good cleaning solution I guess!
It was really cool to meet you at Gen Con! I just dropped by the booth generally like so many others. But it was awesome to get to chat with you about brushes and airbrushes. Let me know if you guys ever get a H&S cross going! I’ll be there, I’m still waiting for their damn new infinity
Lovely to chat! I do enjoy waffling about about airbrushes.
For masking you should try silly putty. That may sound ridiculous but it’s conventionally regarded as one of the best masking materials and it’s cheap and non messy
I'll check it out! Thanks for the tip
Fair paly using the putty I just throw masking tape down. Just dont leave it on for more then 3 hours or the glue will mark. . .
Blue tack ( or something similar) extra sticky!!! works so much better than putty
I stayed away from it this time because I was worried about peeling paint off. Is it generally ok?
@@thepaintingphase Never had paint peel off. unless there was way too much and it dripped down
You can use bluetac/gray putty to mask.
I was scared of ripping paint off, have you found blutac to be ok?
@@thepaintingphase I did not have that issue but you’re probably right to be safe. I have seen a lot of people using silly putty, perhaps that would be lighter on the paint than bluetac
Now I gotta ask what you use for the barrels, a drill pen? I've got a hand drill but that looked easier and quicker.
It is a "wow stick", stupidly expensive but really good.
Next time, save yourself a few steps and use Molotow's neon pink from the bottom, white from the top. Molotow's acrylic range works like a primer. I've been using this method with oils and it's the most durable paint range I own. No chipping or peeling whatsoever even with aggressive rubbing
Never heard of them before, I'll check them out! Thanks for the tip
Made popular by NJM's Marco Frisoni, the patron saint of speed painting.
Welcome to the airbrush club 😊
I think he's just a saint in general, love that man 😍
@@thepaintingphase figuring out that I could use the first airbrush layer / color as a primer was the big game changer. I almost never prime black now unless I want those really deep shadows in the recesses.
for straight lines I prefer tamia masking tape, and then use the putty as crevice or any bits where the tape isn't good.
Do you find the tape works ok on models like terminators? I, probably incorrectly, thought it would be a bit of a faff
@@thepaintingphase on the flat bits like the top yes
Amazing progress and great storytelling!
I would recommend trying no gloss varnish before trying to panel line or localize shade with oils. Works better for me personally as I really dislike oil runs.
And go against all of UA-cam?! I'll give it a go.
@@chocolatebutter192 I'm also in the no-varnish-before-oils club. Never had any problems and saves plenty of time
No one else seems to have noticed this but the real problem was the fact the corona didnt have slice of lime……. Corona without lime is a crime Pat 😂
Needs must darling, needs must. Hahahahaha
Speaking facts!!!!
The one tip I have for oil washes is to basically just use them how you'd use streaking grime. Just make sure it's not too thin and they do act basically the same.
Don't use cotton buds because fuck me you'll never get rid of all the loose hairs on the model, just use makeup spunges or wipes or whatever the hell they're called.
I ordered some make-up sponges recently, I'll make sure to give it a try.
Why not using liquid masking from liquitex instead of putty ?
Because I don't own any... Yet.
@@thepaintingphase You should definitely try it. Also, don't get discouraged too quickly with it. I put a layer, and thought, there's nothing there. I did 3 layers and let it dry in between, and the result was perfect for me. and it's easier to apply that putty, since you're using a brush.
Dat base print failure, tho. Those STLs need better anchoring to the first few bits of the part.
Try combining masking tape and putty.
Sensational idea, I will do this for part 2.
When are yall getting Valrak in for an interview?
He wants to come on and we want to have him, just trying to get the planets to align.
airbrushes are like motorbikes. Every one likes to think they are better than their bike but really the limiting factor is always the monkey at the controls. If you think you have out grown the ultra quicky, welcome to the peak of the dunning Kruger effect.
Which is why I added the text underneath, I definitely haven't.
No need to gloss if you use w&n sansador It doesn’t eat the paint like white spirit.
I've got some somewhere, interesting! I'll check it out
WAIT A MINUTE!......?
I only "Waffle" With Valrak!
What kinda Wargamer do u take me for?
😆 🤣 😂
Just joking I'll Waffle wit any "TableTop hobbiest"
Wait so contrast through an airbrush with pink/white still kind of works as a contrast?! I had no idea…
You definitely lose some of the paint properties, it won't pool through and airbrush, but with a red/white or pink/white undercoat the white turns yellow and the pink turns orange. It's my favourite way to paint yellow.
Could all be done with spray cans and a brush too.
I bet you could stipple those airbrush highlights (rather than glazing) and save a bunch of time
I primarily use oils. I can say that student grade is never a good idea. I like ultrect for brands.
Forgive me, what's student grade? Just not quite good enough?
@@thepaintingphase in oils there is student and artist grade. Think of student grade as craft oil paint. It's lower quality pigment and fillers. It breaks much easier making washes gritty. Usually it comes in sets on the internet. For mini painting: it's doing oils on hard mode. Higher quality artist grade is a joy student grade is a job.
Mixed with a medium you can still glaze a bit but best to just use that stuff for bases and terrain.
Oils are a new skill to learn, but it's worth the effort.
Thanks for breaking that down, much appreciated 👍
Iron Warriors?...
Why did you opt for the putty instead of using masking tape? Tamiya masking tape should have given u a sharp straight line in much less time.
Thought it would be a faff to get a straight line, without bleeding, over all the edges and details
@@thepaintingphase nah i was hestitant in the beginning as well but loved it after trying them out. Get the ones from tamiya - they have like a waxy surface on them that prevents bleeding and they are low tack too so you dont pull up paints when peeling them off.
if you gloss coat your figures before the panel liner you will have a better time.
I did every time, with an airbrush, maybe not enough though! More coats next time perhaps. More gloss = more better.
he did
@@chocolatebutter192 I must have missed that
I would have just used masking tape, especially if I'm not going directly from masking to painting.
Very good idea
Please, please, please get a mask and a spray booth!
What mask would you recommend?
Please wear some kind of mask. Seriously, the paint may not be toxic but atomized particles in your lungs will hurt you. Not wearing any protection while airbrushing sets a bad example. Nice termies though
Love the ‘adequate reveal’ 😂👍
Best way to describe it, it wasn't grand, wasn't terrible. Adequate.