The problem isn’t the age. Pardo is a beeswax based clay. If it’s hard you need only to warm it, slice it very very thin and then continue to warm it in your hands. Then run it through your pasta machine on your thinnest setting. Once you’ve done that you can combine your slices. And if the clay is thoroughly and properly conditioned you shouldn’t generally have a waxy outer coating.
It's funny because I am making a comparison of all brands of clay for Perles & Co (a french webside which sell all of material for creative hobbies). I totally agree with your analysis on Pardo Translucent and I made the same tests. But, I also made a test which consist on putting a very fine sheet of translucent clay on a sheet of blue clay + mica powder to see what happened in this real condition of work. Before sanding the result was : Pardo is the best (comparing to Fimo, Sculpey, Cernit and Kato). But what a surprise to see that after sanding and bufering Pardo which was the clearest before finaly does not reach the expected level because of a sort of persistant veil totaly hide the work under. According to me it's Kato which is the best for this kind of work. It's fabulously translucent (which what not the case before sanding and bufering because it was very yellow) and the shyne is extraordinary (pretty like resin). So I think Pardo translucent is very great to use in thick layer but not on thin layer.
I ordered 5 blocks from poly clay play and they were all hard as bricks from the start. Had I known then they were old I would've complained because 5 blocks were very expensive! Oh well live and learn.
Hi Samantha, I have a question about something else: I subscribed to your channel a while ago, with the bell thing so that I get notifications of your new videos but it seems that something is wrong because I don't get notifications every time. Do you happen to know why? BTW, thanks for this review-video, very useful. Thank you :-)
Hmm. It's pretty close when they're thin. I'd say that they're about the same when it comes to using them in really thin sheets, but Pardo is much more translucent than Cernit if it's a thick sheet. Over all I'd still say that Pardo is the most translucent, but Cernit is still really translucent in thin sheet. I have an article that compares all translucent polymer clays here www.jessamatutorials.com/translucent-polymer-clay.html
Great review of this product. I just wanted to let you know that I sourced this product locally in Australia. The price wasn’t too bad ($4.95 for 56g plus shipping).
The problem isn’t the age. Pardo is a beeswax based clay. If it’s hard you need only to warm it, slice it very very thin and then continue to warm it in your hands. Then run it through your pasta machine on your thinnest setting. Once you’ve done that you can combine your slices. And if the clay is thoroughly and properly conditioned you shouldn’t generally have a waxy outer coating.
It's funny because I am making a comparison of all brands of clay for Perles & Co (a french webside which sell all of material for creative hobbies). I totally agree with your analysis on Pardo Translucent and I made the same tests. But, I also made a test which consist on putting a very fine sheet of translucent clay on a sheet of blue clay + mica powder to see what happened in this real condition of work. Before sanding the result was : Pardo is the best (comparing to Fimo, Sculpey, Cernit and Kato). But what a surprise to see that after sanding and bufering Pardo which was the clearest before finaly does not reach the expected level because of a sort of persistant veil totaly hide the work under. According to me it's Kato which is the best for this kind of work. It's fabulously translucent (which what not the case before sanding and bufering because it was very yellow) and the shyne is extraordinary (pretty like resin). So I think Pardo translucent is very great to use in thick layer but not on thin layer.
I ordered 5 blocks from poly clay play and they were all hard as bricks from the start. Had I known then they were old I would've complained because 5 blocks were very expensive! Oh well live and learn.
Thank you so much for the info. I was wondering about this clay.
Great Tutorial. Poly Clay Play as it for U.S. 2.95 per. A great price!!! Love the stones. Thank you so much Samantha.
What product do you use to varnish your gems. You are a terrific artist with polymer clay.
I like to sand and buff all of my beads, but I find that placing a layer of Varethane clears up the translucent a lot.
Maybe I can get blue sea glass, premo turns it green! Thanks
Can u make rings out of it without be flexible how do they get hard with clay
No. Polymer clay is always flexible as it is a plastic.
Hi Samantha, I have a question about something else: I subscribed to your channel a while ago, with the bell thing so that I get notifications of your new videos but it seems that something is wrong because I don't get notifications every time. Do you happen to know why? BTW, thanks for this review-video, very useful.
Thank you :-)
I'm sorry Judit Toth. I have no idea why it would be doing that. Sorry.
Have you tried Cernit translucent?
Yes. I have tried Cernit translucent. It's one of my favorites, but it's very hard for me to get hold of it.
Jessama Tutorials Between Cernit and Pardo which do you think is more translucent.... I’ve used Cernit but not Pado yet
Hmm. It's pretty close when they're thin. I'd say that they're about the same when it comes to using them in really thin sheets, but Pardo is much more translucent than Cernit if it's a thick sheet. Over all I'd still say that Pardo is the most translucent, but Cernit is still really translucent in thin sheet.
I have an article that compares all translucent polymer clays here www.jessamatutorials.com/translucent-polymer-clay.html
Great review of this product. I just wanted to let you know that I sourced this product locally in Australia. The price wasn’t too bad ($4.95 for 56g plus shipping).
Thank u good to know