Hello again, I’m watching this video again now that I’m up and running with my 30L Flow. The biggest issue I’ve come across with the lighting is the timer and dimmer together. You can’t do both, it’s one or the other. If you use the timer it always turns on to the brightness setting. I have to manually change it to a dimmer setting but then it stops the timer. I need a low light for my fish who doesn’t like bright lights. But I need light for my fully planted tank. I upgraded to the MCR thinking I could do both because they advertised both. I called Biorb and emailed them to find a work around. All they could come up with is just turn it on/off manually every day and set it to my preferred dimness. That works but it’s not convenient with small kids and everyday life. I went on vacation and had the light off as I didn’t want it on 24/7. I almost killed all of my plants after a week of darkness. It’s hard to believe they can’t make two functions work simultaneously. I can’t even attach the adapter to a timer of my own because of the way the adapter works for both the air and light together. It’s frustrating. I know I’m not the only person who has a fish that needs dim light as well as the convenience of the timer. Have you come across this problem? Or thought of another work around? Thanks for your input!
Hi Amy. Yes, that is correct, the MCR cycles on the brightest setting. It is not the same with the colour cycle setting (you can dim the lighting). Also, when you switch on the lighting it will always turn on at the the brightest setting (white). I very rarely use bright light settings (in fact i only use bright white for doing my Channel videos!). I switch on and off the lights manually each day. I tend to use a mid-setting white (dimmed) or the red or yellow setting (which gives a black water/tannin appearance). In terms of a work around... As I'm a photographer , if i wanted to alter the colour or brightness of camera studio lighting i would apply a correction gel light filter in front of the studio lights. These are (stable) coloured plastic sheets. I would assume (I have never tried it!) but a circular cut filter shape placed in front of your biOrb lighting might work. I would start with trying a grey filter (for the purpose of light dimming). The sheets I'm referring to are this type of thing: amzn.to/3u2ccp2. They are fairly cheap to buy and easy to cut to shape. An orange, red or yellow filter might give you a black water appearance if that is also what you are after. I seems logical that it would work but, without trying it myself, I cant confirm that it will. Anyway, that's what I would try. Best, Mark
What about if you planted the tank in a way that allows more hides for your fish? Like having more floater plants? Or potentially having blackwater to help dim the lighting a little within the water? That way you can have bright light settings for the plants that need it without blinding the fish.
Hi Kiki. Yes, the biOrb booklets and videos are not very good at all. At best, they only show you how to set the tank up. Beyond that... nothing! I hope that you find my Channel provides a useful library of subjects that will allow you to have a fully working and beautiful aquarium. Thanks for your support and thanks for watching. Best wishes, Mark
And thank you for watching and for commenting Much appreciated. Glad it helped (lots of people get confused about how to use the remote so I thought I'd cover the subject). Best, Mark
Thanks to this video I got the MCR. Originally I wasn't going to bother. I'm so glad I did though. A big thanks and hugs. You saved me needing to upgrade. S
Hi Mark, I was frustrated by the minimal instructions on how to use the MCR lighting that came with the biorb, also couldn’t understand why when you select 8 or 10 hours why the light started off blue. I assumed daylight would be just white. Anyway long/short off it this video was helpful running through the options and I now can just leave the aquarium and not have to switch on/off the lights manually. The fish are thriving and seem happy with their Enviroment thanks to your help and the lighting as the final touch has completed the setup. Thanks again Mark 🙂👍🏻
Hi Oliver. Great to hear that the video was useful. Yes, the timer is about setting lighting conditions for the fish you have to mimic the natural lighting hours of their natural (tropical) habitats. I'm not even sure that biOrb fully understand what it's for (probably not good communication between their technical team and the promotional teams). As always, thanks for your support and for always adding to the Channel comments. Best, Mark
Hi Ming. I'm afraid not... the biOrb setting is white day light and blue moonlight with no option to dim and no option to replace the blue moonlight with an alternative or no light. So, that mainly leaves operating the light manually to get exactly what you want (and that's exactly what I do). Best, Mark
Here is something no one speaks of. When you want to "upgrade" to the MCR light. You need a different power supply then the one that comes with the regular light. Ordered the MCR, and was all exited about getting it. Then I see the plug is different, (why?), then the one that came with my 30l classic. I guess I may have, must have missed the part in the description of the light, that I needed a different one. Now I get to spend another $35 or so on that. Not your fault though Mark. Love the videos. You're the Bob Ross of fish/tank care.
Hi. Argh, really sorry to hear you got the wrong MCR fitting. Yes, they do replacements in both the biOrb socket fittings (current and previous). BiOrb basically messed around with their electrical fittings a year or two (or more) back. Are you sure it is another light you need rather than getting the relevant plug for the new one you have? Lol... not sure about the reference to Bob Ross! :) I'd never heard of him until now! Lol. I suppose that sums it up though! :). Hope you managed to get your light sorted. Best, Mark.
Thanks Jill. You wouldn't be surprised to hear that I used to get a good number of people asking me how they should use the MCR remote. So, the video was partly triggered by those people. It looks like the video has helped people though... as it isn't often that i get asked about using the MCR nowadays! :). Best, Mark
Thank you for this video! Very informative. Are any of the Biorb lighting options that have a grow light? We have the 30 flow and have live plants that would need a bit more of a grow light. TIA :)
Hi. I'm not aware biOrb do a specific grow light option (Oase do but for these are for their larger tank ranges). biOrb's designed biological filter and substrate aren' really designed for live plants and, besides, biOrb really want you to spend money all your money of their plastic plants LOL. I have occasionally seen videos where people have converted biOrb lighting by using an overhang light and stand but this means removing the biOrb lighting fixture and lid and then positioning the replacement light directly above the tank. Not a pretty solution though! If you plan to convert, the general rule is "1 - 2 watts of lighting per gallon for fish-only freshwater aquariums and between 2 - 5 watts per gallon for planted tanks". If your tank is positioned well away from a natural light source (mine are positioned that way to remove diatom/algae issues) it might also be worth considering relocating. Best wishes, Mark
Good evening, thanks for the informative video. It's just not quite clear to me yet when you start the 10-hour cycle? Is that in the morning or evening. And if that's the evening do you do it at the time you go to bed? Thanks in advance Frank (NLD)
Hi Frank. Hopefully the text provided in the videos description should provide what you want to know: "In many tropical areas, daylight conditions are stable and the difference between the longest day and the shortest day, within a year, can be as little as 1 to 2 hours. The MCR daylight timer settings have nothing to do with setting the aquarium lighting so that it matches your own daylight conditions. Instead, the lighting attempts to mimic the wild environment that your fish species have naturally adapted. Once set, the lighting cycle will have little comparison to your own world daylight hours. The 10 or 12 hour setting reflects the daylight hours that the tank will provide. The 10 - 12 hour settings suit most tropical fish and a mixed community of tropical fish. In the example of the 10 hr setting, this will provide a short period of sunrise which will progress into 10 hours of daylight. Following this, the lighting will enter into a night time period (moonlight/blue for 14 hours). To use the daylight setting on the remote: Switch off the the remote using the 'OFF' button. Switch on the remote using the 'ON' button. Press the number of hours you wish to use on the remote (for example '12 HR'). At the start of the cycle the aquarium will begin with a short period of sunrise (a blue colour) it will then transition into the daylight setting that you chose (for example 12 hours). You need to decide what time you would like to start the cycle so that you enjoy the daylight setting when it best suits your own viewing. For example, if you start the 12 HR setting at 9:00am it will stay in daylight setting through the day and then start to go into a night setting at about 9:00pm. If you want to cancel the cycle at any time just press the remote 'OFF' button." Please let me know if not. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Nessa. Thanks for watching. The real purpose of this video was less about how the light looks at night and more about how to use the MCR remote control (as a number of people had already asked me about this as the instructions from biOrb are not very clear). To see the MCR in low light the video I did here: ua-cam.com/video/_dl7Lejlcg0/v-deo.html is perhaps a better one to watch. Best wishes, Mark.
Great video. I have the MCR and im very impressed. On another subject. The intelligent heater and the leds on it. I have a constant green light but no red light at all. I thought it was supposed to flash red showing it was monitoring the temp. Any knowledge on this would be appreciated. Thanks
Hi dazman. The green LED normally indicates that your aquarium water temp has reached the set (fixed) temperature of around 24.5 C (but normally 24-26 degrees with biOrb heaters as I find it varies between each heater). As the heater should be constantly altering I would suggest red (flashing or fixed) is the norm. The heater should be frequently altering the aquarium though the day. Normally, red indicates the heater is on (always good!) and is heating the water to reach (or stabilising) the water (i.e the temp has dropped a bit so the heater is heating the water back up). So, red is probably the most frequent colour! Green is normally indicative that the temp has been reached. Ultimately, putting aside the LED colour, I suppose the key thing is the regular temp of your aquarium water. If you are getting fairly consistent (typical) tropical fish temps I would suggest you totally ignore the LED colours! I can't say that I really pay much attention to my LED colours as I know from my regular checks that my aquariums remain fairly consistent in terms of their water temp (i.e they remain at the ball park temp of tropical fish) As long as the aquarium is generally in the right ball park in terms of temp all should be okay. Best, Mark.
Hi Mark, new Halo 60 owner, your videos have really helped me feel confident in my choices and decisions. Just one question. If I set the 10 hr timer, do I set it for the first time, first thing in the morning and then leave it? Will it continue to run until I change it on the remote? Thanks, Emma.
Hi Emma. Nice to hear from you. Congrats on the 60 Halo. A great size tank! If you want to use the timer (I don't use it) then 10-hours is a good setting for tropical fish. The use of the timer is more related to the time you want to have the tank lit for viewing (so is not related to outside/real world natural light). So, if you wanted the tank to be lit until 23:00 at night - before changing over to the night time/moonlight setting - you would need to start the timer 10 hours prior to that (13:00). When it enters night mode it would stay like that for 14 hours and then turn back to daylight lighting at 13:00 the next day. If you start the controller at 08:00 in the morning the tank would remain in daylight setting until 18:00, and then move to night mode lighting for the next 14 hours. So, the idea is that once you start the setting you would just leave it. I tend to switch my lighting on manually, if at all. The problem with the timer setting is that the default daylight (white light) is set at high intensity. I think this is too bright for many fish species and such lighting can easily lead to problems with tank algae growth (especially diatoms). The key thing I like about MCR is the ability to dim the white light setting when it is on (I prefer the lower light settings). I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Mark. I really appreciate your channel I have a biorb tank light that requires pressing a button on top that flashes ( not remote controlled) could you kindly recommend a suitable time to set my light and how how many flashes i need to set it correctly?
Hi Mike. Nice to hear from you. Can I ask what model of biOrb you have as I'm not aware of a model that has lighting operated and controlled via a push button lid? Apart from the remote and power cord (toggle) switch controls, the Moonlight biOrbs are fitted with a light sensor on the lid which automatically switches to blue moonlight when a room is darkened (on this model there is no requirement to set a timer). Thanks, Mark
Hi again. If it is the Halo moonlight, this allows the light to be set to switch on when the ambient/room light reaches a certain lighting level or darkness. The length of time it stays in the moonlight setting will vary between summer and winter. Here are the instructions. Selecting a mode ln the start position (white light) 1. Press once for constant moonlight (blue) 2. Press again and the white light will flash 3 times indicating the light sensor is activated (see instructions for setting the sensor). 3. Press again to return to the start position (white light). Setting the sensor If you wish the lights to automatically switch to a moonlight effect at night, a programmable sensor allows you to decide how dark the room gets before switching over from standard lighting to moonlight. 1. Wait until the room has reached the desired level of light ie. dusk. 2. Press the light button twice for constant moonlight. 3. Press and hold the light button for 3 seconds, the moonlight will flash 3 times to indicate the sensor is now set to switch your LEDs to moonlight when the room reaches this level of light. The light will automatically change back to white light when the ambient light level increases beyond the level set. The light can be turned off via the inline switch and will return to the previous settings when turned on. I tend not to bother with automatic light changes on my tanks but hopefully the above is what you needed. Best, Mark
No problem at all Mike. I hope what is provided is of some use. The reality is that I don't have Moonlight based tanks, as all of mine (5 tanks) are MCR Remotes. The other key point is that I don't use daylight to night time biOrb settings on any of my tanks. I turn them all on and off manually and, for the most part, I rely far more on natural lighting rather than tank LEDs for lighting. Anyway, I hope you manage to get your head around the system you have on your biOrb. Take care, Mark.
Thanks. How does the MCR light act after a power outage. Does it remember settings like number of daylight hours, and does it start a new day cycle or continue where it left off?
Hi. Following a power outage, or accidentally turning the light off at the mains, the light would revert to the normal factory settings. Which means you would need to re-programme/re-start. Best, Mark
Do you advise to mimic nature using these cycles as this is preferred for the fish or is it just the owners preference? I tend to leave my MCR always-on.
Hi. I don’t to tend to use the timer settings. But I think it is good to know how much light a range of tropical fish species prefer and use that as a guide for how long to leave lighting on (especially when using the brightest white setting). Best, Mark
Just let you know I really do love the MCR (thanks to your video!). So good to be able to dim the lights (high setting is probably too high especially if left on for too long!). Question: Would any tropical fish live in an environment which have such an intensity of light? Thanks S
Hey. You would probably struggle to find a species that has such direct light, and throughout the day. I can't think of any off the top of my head! Many environments containing tropical fish (and the species we would add to a biOrb) are vegetated (either with aquatic plants or from surrounding plants/trees). A mid to low MCR setting on the white LED is probably more reflective of the environments I have experienced fish living in during my trips to South America/ Brazil. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Paula. Yes you can (just the light part) and you can also get upgrades which are both the light and remote control. You will need to search around to get the correct one and also the correct colour. I think this one is designed for that sized tank: amzn.to/3xFwA0J. But do check before ordering! Note that you will need to get one that has the correct plug for your electricity socket supply. It will either be the single pin type version or the double pin type version. I think the link I provided above is for the double pin version. Hope that helps. Mark
On my life 60 I went for the intelligent lighting which I think is the best option for 24 auto cycle. When I bought second tank, flow 30, only option as you say are the basic one and MCR. As I didn't want to do colours I went for basic one. Drawback is, I was going to put on a timer but it shares a plug with the pump. So going to have to either buy a new transformer plug or a new pump for around the same price! Another issue I found is that the light is just too bright, my endlers stayed at the end avoiding it when it was on so I've had to get some gray plastic to go over it to dim it slightly. So in hindsight I wish I'd gone MCR just seems a rip off for a few LEDs and a cheap remote when you can get a 5m led strip for a quarter of the price!
Thanks Peter. Yes, I agree the MCR is a better option for an aquarium - even just the ability to dim the white light makes it the first choice for me. Thanks again for watching and your support. Best, Mark
I've recently found your videos (I have subscribed) and ordered my Biorb (not yet received in the parcel). I have ordered the 60L cube. My preference would be to add around 4-5 live plants (attached to rocks or wood) and so I am wondering if the the plants would benefit from more hours of light (say 14 hours instead of the 10 you suggest). While I didn't order the standard light, I can see it would be useful to have the scheduled daylight/moonlight so maybe that is an upgrade I make later. As for the fish, I am thinking a betta with (hopefully) a few tank mates. Thank you for your helpful information and videos!
Hi Jill. Many thanks for supporting the Channel and subscribing. The main plants associated with placement on rock/wood are anubias and Java. Both are considered low light plants and do best in low to moderate lighting intensity (and duration) of light. Anubias plants are always my preference as they tend to be more robust than Java fern. Ten (to 12 hours) is more than fine (and less also fine). I will often leave my tanks to be lit by natural (room) lighting and all my plants and fish are thriving. Too much light may trigger algae growth in a new/establishing tank. Please note that wood will result in the release of tannin. This will give your water a slight colouration (brown/amber) and will very slightly soften the water. Lava rock will not cause this colour change to your water (and is inert in nature so will not alter water parameters, pH etc). See my video on plants if you haven't already. Note also my video on the new biOrb Pearl Media. If you prefer this substrate, compared to standard biOrb ceramic media, it would be far easier to cycle your tank with new substrate rather than make this change later on. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi. Sorry, forgot to add... In terms of Betta, normally about 14-16 hours (daylight time) is about right for them. This period of lighting is also fine for anubias and Java species. The MCR lighting allows you to alter the intensity of the lighting. Thanks, Mark
Hi Mark, Great video! With the remote, is it possible to program a mixture of LED colors (ie. red, blue, white at different intensities) or it is all one color with the ability to control the intensity of that one color?
Hi. Nice to hear from you and thanks for visiting the Channel. In terms of the programming on the remote, there are no options to customise or program the lighting beyond the given biOrb settings. If you set the remote to automatically transition through all the different colours then each one (sort of!) fades in and then out and then changes to the new colour (it keeps repeating through the colour cycle). In this setting you would not be able to set a preferred light intensity for the transition. As you indicate, for the fixed colour lighting, any colour, including white, can be chosen and each of those colours can be reduced or increased in its light intensity. So, in this case, you simply choose the specific colour you prefer and then you adjust its light intensity to suit what you need. Let me know if I haven't covered what you needed. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Gary. Yes, my aquariums are all heated. I use biOrb's Intelligent Heater systems but these are no longer available as new products. If you want a heater, that isn't so obvious within an aquarium, you need to choose a product that is properly "fully submersible" (various manufacturers do these but not Oase biOrb). That would allow you to tuck the heater out of the way (amongst biOrb plants or behind the central sculpture). biOrb Intelligent Heaters do come up as used products - eBay is probably the best place to look for one. Hope thats helps. Mark
Hi Gary. I looked into this for you. I would suggest you look at the Fluval Pre Set Heater range if you are after a heater that is fully submersible and can be hidden out of the way. This heater can be used either horizontally or vertically (vertical probably being the best option to hide the heater. You would need to choose the right one (they do three, P10, P25, P50) for your size of biOrb. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, this was very informative, thank you! Is there an option to do a timer on the standard LED light? i.e it turns on + off by itself? Or should I just buy a smart plug? Thanks so much for your help, your videos are very informative and helpful.
Hi. Thanks for watching and I'm glad you found the video useful. The standard lightly is operated via an on/off switch (positioned along the power cable). So, yes, I would assume you could operate it from a smart timer plug if you leave the light switch on. The real benefit of the MCR is largely to reduce the brightness of the lighting, which means the fish are not subject to bright light for the whole duration the lighting is on. On the other hand, the MCR couldn't be operated (on/off) via a smart timer plug as all operation of the lights is via the remote control. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Mark, one more question for you. I also have the MCR lighting but I don't know what the best setting is. 1) Should I choose the 8, 10, 12 or 14 hours for the summer period. And what about winter time? 2) Which daily period for having the light on is best: from sunrise or a few hours later? No matter what, in the summer period the time from sunrise to sunset is almost 18 hours and in the winter period it's less than 10 hours a day. So what's best for the fish - even though the blue night light is on, in the summer there is still many hours of daylight, so this night light doesn't matter for the fish - or does it? 3) I find the day setting too intensive but when I choose one of the 4 time cycles I have no other choice than the highest white setting. Isn't this annoying for the fish? When I'm from home a few days then this is the only option. 4) Is it best to turn off the lights completely at night? Sorry for not one but four more questions - but I really want to do this the right way 😊 Thanks again and all the best, Roel
Hi Roel 1. If you wish to use the light cycle function then either the 10 or 12 hour setting is the best setting for most tropical fish. The setting you choose is the one you would stick with all year round as it is trying to mimic the longer and stable day light hours of the environment that fish species originate from (generally a lack of discreet seasonality and little day length variation across the whole year. 2. I would choose a start time that allows the aquarium to be lit for the period you wish to see the fish. If you generally want the tank to be lit during the afternoon and early evening, then you would start the lighting cycle to coincide with that. The timing of the lighting has little to do with the conditions (daylight etc) outside the tank/ where you live. The aquarium lighting aims to create its own lighting environment within the tank. The blue light is aiming to mimic moonlight colouration. 3. Yes, I agree the high white lighting is too strong, and it is annoying that you can't set a dimmed setting when using the lighting cycle. 4. The only reason I get the MCR is the ability to dim the lights (and it doesn't cause a strobe/flicker with my video camera). I don't use it to cycle the lighting within the tank. I normally use white light that is dimmed to the third or fourth light setting, and keep it at that. Also, I will often just leave the lights off and rely on natural light, especially during the summer. All of my aquariums are placed within a reasonable proximity to windows (natural light). At night, if the lights have been on, I simply turn the lights off. I hope that covers what you were asking about. Also, have a look at the video's Description as I cover most of the above, and more, in the text I've added to support the video. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you Mark. I saw this video 2 times but there were still things unclear for me. I haven't seen the text you've added as a support to the video before you mentioned it. Sorry! The text makes it so much clearer for me. Thanks /Roel
Hi Angelika. This is basically the receiver that picks-up the different infra-red signals sent from the remote control. (i.e the transmitter). Every time you press a button on the remote it emits signals to the receiver. So, if you were to cover the bubble with your hand, for example, the receiver wouldn't be unable to pick-up the signals and the remote control would be unable to operate the lights. It works the same as a remote control used to operate a TV. Hope that makes sense. Best wishes, Mark
Great discussion from you. So, now I now what those numbers do on my remote. I think the vid is also really good for current owners of biOrb's - let alone people thinking of which light to get. I hadnt thought about the day light periods for tropical fish so thought that part was really interesting. It all makes sense now. I never use the wriggly worm setting :-) Cheers, Pete
I have just bought the exact same tank thats in this video. ( White flow ) and it came with the standard on/off light. For the life of me I cant find the mcr unit in fully white like yours. They all seem to have the circle in dark gray.
Hi. If it is the Flow 30 you will need the large MCR white kit. Amazon only seem to have the white/small. eBay is probably the best place to find one- try here: www.ebay.co.uk/str/aquatics4all Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Just make sure you order the correct plug fitting. They do them with a double prong or single. The double is for use with the older biOrbs and for use with the Intelligent Heater Pod. New tanks will tend to need the single. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for all the help. Waiting on my water safe and colony to arrive. Think I will give it a few months to see how I get on then upgrade. Only paid £104 for the tank brand new from pets at home. So spending £90 to replace the light hurts a bit lol. Will keep my eye out for a cheap one.
Yes, good idea my friend. I would wait before upgrading too. The best feature of the MCR (for me) it to be able to dim the light intensity (can't say I really use the colours). It's a lot of money just to dim the lights though! Seems to be a bit of a monopoly going on with price increases on various biOrb products with numerous items being pushed well above their RRP!! I guess MCR might fall into that category. The biOrb intelligent heater was less than £90 six months ago, currently seems to be around £130!!
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Yea, I was lucky with the tank, Was down from £179 to £116 plus there is a 10% off code right now ( PETS23) so took it down to £104 so cant complain. Did pay £35 for the standard biorb heater mind you. Why is the cable black and not white !!! lol. Anyway. Hope to start it cycling on Wed one my Colony stuff arrives. ( Bought after watching you setup vid ) My first tank in about 15 years, Used to have a huge Juewl tank. Its amazing what you forget though, lol
Hi there does it make the appearance of the fish more vibrant? Because the classic led does not show a beautiful display of colors in the fish. Thank you
Hi my friend. Good question! I would probably say yes, in as much as displaying the fish how they are supposed to be (rather than promoting more intense colour more than they should be!). High intensity light (standard LED) can make everything, including many fish, look a bit washed out. It is too bright for many species. MCR allows the reduction of the light intensity. My cherry barbs are a good example, both males and females, show far better colouration on a lower light intensity (in my case: a mid brightness setting on MCR). Colour intensity of fish reflects the health of the fish (e.g water quality), the quality of their food, as well as light setting. Best wishes, Mark
Maybe I’m a bit dense, but I’m still having trouble setting my tank on a cycle. Do I press “on” first, followed by “10” (or 14 or 8 etc)? I just hit the “10” button but nothing is happening.
Hi Lisa. Don't worry, it is a bit confusing until you get your head around it. The problem is that biOrb are not the best at giving guidance on their products. Most (typical) tropical fish that people add to a biOrb will need a 10 or 12 hour setting and these settings will also work well for most mixed community tropical fish. The hours shown reflect the daylight hour length. A 10hr setting will provide: a short period of "sunrise", 10 hours of daylight, a short period of "sunset" and then the rest will be night time (moonlight blue). In all settings the sunrise and sunset times are roughly the same (it is daylight and night hours that will vary more. To use it, turn OFF your remote. Then press ON. Then press the time you want to use (let's say 10 HR). The aquarium LED light will (should!) change to a blue colour. This starts the cycle and the blue reflects the end of the night setting and the start of the sunrise - so the light will progress through this and move into daylight (for the hours you choose), then into sunset and then into night. You will need to choose the best time to start the sunrise so that the aquarium cycles through the daylight setting at the best time to suit yourself. Once the timer is started you will not need to touch the remote. If you do alter anything you will need to set the timer going again. Give it a try and see how it goes. Best, Mark
So the timer does not go to complete darkness it stays a dark blue? I set, and I wait it eventually went to dark blue, but fish should be in complete dark. Doesn't seem to do this. Am I correct? The timer goes dark blue, then in the morning, it will get brighter, which is nice but needs to be dark at night...
Hi, Yes, that is correct. The biOrb led timer moves to "moonlight" (blue) during the night and then progresses to daylight (white) during the day. I don't use the timer function and prefer the fish to be in natural dark during the night. Tropical fish also prefer a fairly extensive period of night time (depending on species and where they originate). Best, Mark
Can you slow down the cycle as it seems it’s changing extremely fast? Also once you select a timer does it stay on that for good until you change it? Or does it stop after the 10 hours have passed? Reason I’m asking is because I have to go for a few days and wanted the lights on timer function whilst I’m away. Was looking at the 10hour timer as you suggested.
Hi. Unfortunately you have little control... apart from the timer options on the remote. There is no other way to "slow down" the timer cycle... apart from you choosing to use a longer/shorter day light length. But, that also goes for most timers of this kind so it is not just a biOrb thing! Once the cycle button is pressed it will continue to cycle on the chosen day light timing. It would only stop cycling if you cancel the timer via the remote. The idea is that you choose your preferred start time for the cycle, then press the timer button and then leave it alone. It should then cycle. Once started it will stay on that cycle unless you cancel it. So, yes, it will stay on that cycle unless you determine otherwise. Ten hours of daylight (less than we currently have in the UK) is about right for many tropical (e.g south American, African) species. Hope that helps, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb tha m you for the detailed answer. Much appreciated. That’s exactly what I needed to know. The 10 hours was just a example as you said in the video, what would you recommend here in the UK? Also when you click the filter back in the base should it properly lock In place? As with the lightest of turn it unlocks. I thought it would have have some resistance atleast.
Hi. Hope all is well. The light setting on a biOrb remote aims to replicate the normal (wild/natural) day light periods that would be exposed to the species you have in the tank. In countries such as north Brazil the number of hours of daylight is roughly similar to the number of hours of night time - and there is little variation throughout the year ("winter" or "summer"). So, the setting you choose is not based on where you live (e.g. in the UK), but instead is about replicating the conditions of wild fish with those fish species you have. For most tropical fish, including a mixed species aquarium, I think between about 10-12 hours daylight will roughly reflect the daylight hours normally experienced for most wild tropical fish (of African, South American origin etc). So, the lighting setting in a biOrb creates a false day and nighttime compared to the UK. The setting will determine the length of aquarium daylight hours that the fish will experience within the tank and is not aiming to reflect the daylight/outside hours of where you live. In the UK, the daylight setting within the tank will remain daylight... even though the UK winter has moved into darkness. In the summer, when the UK's daylight hours are longer than 10-12 hours, the tank will instead disregard the UK's daylight hours and instead move into a night time mode. It will still be sunny outside in the UK, but the tank will have gone into night time lighting. Hope that makes sense. In terms of locking the filter system. Yes, the difference between locking and unlocking is only a small turn . For locking, this just needs you to put the two halves of the filter system together and then (by holding the bubble tube) briefly turn the bubble tube part anti-clockwise to lock (or turn clockwise to unlock). Once locked the two elements of the filter system will be held suitably together and then will be good to add back to the aquarium. Best wishes, Mark
I do seem to have to take everything out every week and clean it, ive now cut the light down to 4hours, how long do you keep your on for? Ive no real plants and alot of white decs so the algae etc does show up more easily.
Yes, lighting can certainly increase algae (and also having the aquarium near to direct sunlight). I often have days where I leave the lighting mainly off and when I do have it on have it set at the low MCR white light setting. But algae growth is also related to water nutrient levels. As a starter, what is your normal nitrate level range during the week (or, what level does it reach during a week before doing a water change)? Nerite snails are fairly good also for helping to keep algae levels down and might be more advantageous than live plants
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I have nerites in another tank, i moved them from all my other tanks to one tank to try and work out what ones were males so i dont get those eggs everywhere. This tank is my wifes or so i let her think that lol, i did tell her we could put one in there but need to make sure its a male, ill cut the light down in intensity now and then as well and see how that goes then.
Yes, there's no need to have lights full on for prolonged periods of time. So, check out the water quality to see how much nutrient you are building up in the tank. Nitrate level is probably the key one to look at We can look to see if we can get that down - although it is likely that what you are seeing is a just the product of having a new tank and it can takes many many months for a tank to fully settle down. I agree, one Nerite would probably be about right in that size tank. There's no need to worry about them reproducing young as they require brackish water for that to happen. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Hi. Is your axolotl tank a biOrb? If so, yes the MCR would probably be a good move as it allows the white (and all other colours) to be reduced right down in intensity. You also have the option to use 'other than white' colours which might also be beneficial to light sensitive species. If you have biOrb standard LED lighting I would say, roughly, that the standard light intensity is similar to the very highest setting on the MCR. Don't hold me to it (as i haven't tested it!) but the MCR should allow this to be dropped by say 3/4 (i.e. to a 1/4 of the intensity of standard lighting). Very interesting question... that's a first for me. :) Nice to hear from you. Best, Mark.
Hi Donna. I'm not sure why that would be and it's the first time I've heard of that issue during the time I've run this channel. To remove it, it should be a simple case of putting you hand into the tank, grabbing hold of the bubble tube and turning it anti-clockwise and then the whole unit should lift out. ua-cam.com/video/3K6PHgzrYww/v-deo.html#:~:text=Twist%20and%20release%20the%20bubble,place%20and%20you're%20done. It has a very simple lock mechanism so there shouldn't be anything causing it to stick. To add it back in, do the opposite of the above.
Hi Teresa... what sort of remote/ lighting system do you have? The MCR remote I showed in the video works the same as the recent (all white) version. Unless you have a faulty remote or a faulty light system (if so you should return for a replacement) they should all, at a very minimum, switch on and off the LED lights. Excuse my silly question, but have you made sure the batteries in the remote are fully charged and are placed in the remote correctly? Best, Mark
Should the lighting be turned off at night. I have set my timer for 12 hours and the light changes to 'moonlight' effect till morning then kicks in with white light.. but just wondering if the fish need/prefer no lights on during the night?
I tend just to turn mine off. Tropical fish do need a reasonable period of darkness/ night (so, no lights is good). For me, the best thing about the MCR is the ability to dim the white lights - rather than being on a full bright setting all day long. I tend to use the third button down on the light brightness setting. Best, Mark
I just read through some of the other comments and now see that the MCR daylight function cannot be programmed for a color other than bright white. Thanks for your help and awesome videos. Think I’ll try the gel filters you suggested.
Hi, yes, this is a question that does get raised and unfortunately it is bright white (daylight) or nothing when it comes to the timer settings. I hope the gel filters provide a solution, I cant see why they shouldn't. Best wishes and Happy New Year, Mark
Thanks so much for going over the light timing settings. I felt very confused when I read thru their guides and want sure which to use.
Thanks Penny. biOrb aren't very good at providing useful information so I'm glad you found this video helpful. Best wishes, Mark
Hello again, I’m watching this video again now that I’m up and running with my 30L Flow. The biggest issue I’ve come across with the lighting is the timer and dimmer together. You can’t do both, it’s one or the other. If you use the timer it always turns on to the brightness setting. I have to manually change it to a dimmer setting but then it stops the timer. I need a low light for my fish who doesn’t like bright lights. But I need light for my fully planted tank. I upgraded to the MCR thinking I could do both because they advertised both. I called Biorb and emailed them to find a work around. All they could come up with is just turn it on/off manually every day and set it to my preferred dimness. That works but it’s not convenient with small kids and everyday life. I went on vacation and had the light off as I didn’t want it on 24/7. I almost killed all of my plants after a week of darkness. It’s hard to believe they can’t make two functions work simultaneously. I can’t even attach the adapter to a timer of my own because of the way the adapter works for both the air and light together. It’s frustrating. I know I’m not the only person who has a fish that needs dim light as well as the convenience of the timer. Have you come across this problem? Or thought of another work around? Thanks for your input!
Hi Amy. Yes, that is correct, the MCR cycles on the brightest setting. It is not the same with the colour cycle setting (you can dim the lighting). Also, when you switch on the lighting it will always turn on at the the brightest setting (white). I very rarely use bright light settings (in fact i only use bright white for doing my Channel videos!). I switch on and off the lights manually each day. I tend to use a mid-setting white (dimmed) or the red or yellow setting (which gives a black water/tannin appearance). In terms of a work around... As I'm a photographer , if i wanted to alter the colour or brightness of camera studio lighting i would apply a correction gel light filter in front of the studio lights. These are (stable) coloured plastic sheets. I would assume (I have never tried it!) but a circular cut filter shape placed in front of your biOrb lighting might work. I would start with trying a grey filter (for the purpose of light dimming). The sheets I'm referring to are this type of thing: amzn.to/3u2ccp2. They are fairly cheap to buy and easy to cut to shape. An orange, red or yellow filter might give you a black water appearance if that is also what you are after. I seems logical that it would work but, without trying it myself, I cant confirm that it will. Anyway, that's what I would try. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you! I’m going to look into these sheets. I appreciate the tip.
What about if you planted the tank in a way that allows more hides for your fish? Like having more floater plants? Or potentially having blackwater to help dim the lighting a little within the water? That way you can have bright light settings for the plants that need it without blinding the fish.
Thank you so much I have been trying to to find videos from biorb and didn’t find anything and the booklet really didn’t explain at all
Hi Kiki. Yes, the biOrb booklets and videos are not very good at all. At best, they only show you how to set the tank up. Beyond that... nothing! I hope that you find my Channel provides a useful library of subjects that will allow you to have a fully working and beautiful aquarium. Thanks for your support and thanks for watching. Best wishes, Mark
Thank you just bought a new 60l cube with MCR lighting...watching your video has made it clear and simple👍
Many thanks beck beck. I'm glad the video was of use to you. Thanks so much for watching. Much appreciated. Best, Mark
Thanks a million for this. You made it so clear how to use the remote for biOrb Aquarium. Thanks again.
And thank you for watching and for commenting Much appreciated. Glad it helped (lots of people get confused about how to use the remote so I thought I'd cover the subject). Best, Mark
Thank you, I thought I was going crazy but you confirmed what I thought.
You're welcome :)
Thanks to this video I got the MCR. Originally I wasn't going to bother. I'm so glad I did though. A big thanks and hugs. You saved me needing to upgrade. S
I'm glad the video helped. I have MCR in all my tanks but it is mainly the ability to dim the lights that i like most.
Hi Mark, I was frustrated by the minimal instructions on how to use the MCR lighting that came with the biorb, also couldn’t understand why when you select 8 or 10 hours why the light started off blue. I assumed daylight would be just white. Anyway long/short off it this video was helpful running through the options and I now can just leave the aquarium and not have to switch on/off the lights manually. The fish are thriving and seem happy with their Enviroment thanks to your help and the lighting as the final touch has completed the setup. Thanks again Mark 🙂👍🏻
Hi Oliver. Great to hear that the video was useful. Yes, the timer is about setting lighting conditions for the fish you have to mimic the natural lighting hours of their natural (tropical) habitats. I'm not even sure that biOrb fully understand what it's for (probably not good communication between their technical team and the promotional teams). As always, thanks for your support and for always adding to the Channel comments. Best, Mark
I read online that its bad to leave blue night blue on everyday. Is there a way to make night light as no light?
Hi Ming. I'm afraid not... the biOrb setting is white day light and blue moonlight with no option to dim and no option to replace the blue moonlight with an alternative or no light. So, that mainly leaves operating the light manually to get exactly what you want (and that's exactly what I do). Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for the advice
Always so very helpful… Thanks for taking the time to make this video Marc 👍
For you D, it's a total pleasure! Glad you liked it. Take care.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb You too 👍
Here is something no one speaks of. When you want to "upgrade" to the MCR light. You need a different power supply then the one that comes with the regular light. Ordered the MCR, and was all exited about getting it. Then I see the plug is different, (why?), then the one that came with my 30l classic. I guess I may have, must have missed the part in the description of the light, that I needed a different one. Now I get to spend another $35 or so on that. Not your fault though Mark. Love the videos. You're the Bob Ross of fish/tank care.
Hi. Argh, really sorry to hear you got the wrong MCR fitting. Yes, they do replacements in both the biOrb socket fittings (current and previous). BiOrb basically messed around with their electrical fittings a year or two (or more) back. Are you sure it is another light you need rather than getting the relevant plug for the new one you have? Lol... not sure about the reference to Bob Ross! :) I'd never heard of him until now! Lol. I suppose that sums it up though! :). Hope you managed to get your light sorted. Best, Mark.
That was a very good simple instruction on using a mcr biorb remote control.anual from Biorb is far too technical.
Thanks Jill. You wouldn't be surprised to hear that I used to get a good number of people asking me how they should use the MCR remote. So, the video was partly triggered by those people. It looks like the video has helped people though... as it isn't often that i get asked about using the MCR nowadays! :). Best, Mark
Thank you for this video! Very informative. Are any of the Biorb lighting options that have a grow light? We have the 30 flow and have live plants that would need a bit more of a grow light.
TIA :)
Hi. I'm not aware biOrb do a specific grow light option (Oase do but for these are for their larger tank ranges). biOrb's designed biological filter and substrate aren' really designed for live plants and, besides, biOrb really want you to spend money all your money of their plastic plants LOL. I have occasionally seen videos where people have converted biOrb lighting by using an overhang light and stand but this means removing the biOrb lighting fixture and lid and then positioning the replacement light directly above the tank. Not a pretty solution though! If you plan to convert, the general rule is "1 - 2 watts of lighting per gallon for fish-only freshwater aquariums and between 2 - 5 watts per gallon for planted tanks". If your tank is positioned well away from a natural light source (mine are positioned that way to remove diatom/algae issues) it might also be worth considering relocating. Best wishes, Mark
Another great video, your videos are absolutely great, helped me in every way, thanks very much.
Many thanks Joyce. I'm really glad you are finding the channel useful. Thanks for your support... much appreciated. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Keep up the great video’s Mark, I have learnt so much from them and would have struggled without watching them, thanks very much 😀👍
Good evening, thanks for the informative video. It's just not quite clear to me yet when you start the 10-hour cycle? Is that in the morning or evening. And if that's the evening do you do it at the time you go to bed?
Thanks in advance
Frank (NLD)
Hi Frank. Hopefully the text provided in the videos description should provide what you want to know:
"In many tropical areas, daylight conditions are stable and the difference between the longest day and the shortest day, within a year, can be as little as 1 to 2 hours.
The MCR daylight timer settings have nothing to do with setting the aquarium lighting so that it matches your own daylight conditions. Instead, the lighting attempts to mimic the wild environment that your fish species have naturally adapted. Once set, the lighting cycle will have little comparison to your own world daylight hours.
The 10 or 12 hour setting reflects the daylight hours that the tank will provide. The 10 - 12 hour settings suit most tropical fish and a mixed community of tropical fish. In the example of the 10 hr setting, this will provide a short period of sunrise which will progress into 10 hours of daylight. Following this, the lighting will enter into a night time period (moonlight/blue for 14 hours).
To use the daylight setting on the remote:
Switch off the the remote using the 'OFF' button.
Switch on the remote using the 'ON' button.
Press the number of hours you wish to use on the remote (for example '12 HR').
At the start of the cycle the aquarium will begin with a short period of sunrise (a blue colour) it will then transition into the daylight setting that you chose (for example 12 hours).
You need to decide what time you would like to start the cycle so that you enjoy the daylight setting when it best suits your own viewing. For example, if you start the 12 HR setting at 9:00am it will stay in daylight setting through the day and then start to go into a night setting at about 9:00pm.
If you want to cancel the cycle at any time just press the remote 'OFF' button."
Please let me know if not. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi, thanks for your detailed information. It works fine now. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video but in hindsight should you have recorded the video at night to show the full effect of the MCR lighting?
Hi Nessa. Thanks for watching. The real purpose of this video was less about how the light looks at night and more about how to use the MCR remote control (as a number of people had already asked me about this as the instructions from biOrb are not very clear). To see the MCR in low light the video I did here: ua-cam.com/video/_dl7Lejlcg0/v-deo.html is perhaps a better one to watch. Best wishes, Mark.
Great video. I have the MCR and im very impressed. On another subject. The intelligent heater and the leds on it. I have a constant green light but no red light at all. I thought it was supposed to flash red showing it was monitoring the temp. Any knowledge on this would be appreciated. Thanks
Hi dazman. The green LED normally indicates that your aquarium water temp has reached the set (fixed) temperature of around 24.5 C (but normally 24-26 degrees with biOrb heaters as I find it varies between each heater). As the heater should be constantly altering I would suggest red (flashing or fixed) is the norm. The heater should be frequently altering the aquarium though the day. Normally, red indicates the heater is on (always good!) and is heating the water to reach (or stabilising) the water (i.e the temp has dropped a bit so the heater is heating the water back up). So, red is probably the most frequent colour! Green is normally indicative that the temp has been reached. Ultimately, putting aside the LED colour, I suppose the key thing is the regular temp of your aquarium water. If you are getting fairly consistent (typical) tropical fish temps I would suggest you totally ignore the LED colours! I can't say that I really pay much attention to my LED colours as I know from my regular checks that my aquariums remain fairly consistent in terms of their water temp (i.e they remain at the ball park temp of tropical fish) As long as the aquarium is generally in the right ball park in terms of temp all should be okay. Best, Mark.
Hi Mark, new Halo 60 owner, your videos have really helped me feel confident in my choices and decisions. Just one question. If I set the 10 hr timer, do I set it for the first time, first thing in the morning and then leave it? Will it continue to run until I change it on the remote?
Thanks,
Emma.
Hi Emma. Nice to hear from you. Congrats on the 60 Halo. A great size tank!
If you want to use the timer (I don't use it) then 10-hours is a good setting for tropical fish. The use of the timer is more related to the time you want to have the tank lit for viewing (so is not related to outside/real world natural light). So, if you wanted the tank to be lit until 23:00 at night - before changing over to the night time/moonlight setting - you would need to start the timer 10 hours prior to that (13:00). When it enters night mode it would stay like that for 14 hours and then turn back to daylight lighting at 13:00 the next day. If you start the controller at 08:00 in the morning the tank would remain in daylight setting until 18:00, and then move to night mode lighting for the next 14 hours. So, the idea is that once you start the setting you would just leave it. I tend to switch my lighting on manually, if at all. The problem with the timer setting is that the default daylight (white light) is set at high intensity. I think this is too bright for many fish species and such lighting can easily lead to problems with tank algae growth (especially diatoms). The key thing I like about MCR is the ability to dim the white light setting when it is on (I prefer the lower light settings). I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Mark. I really appreciate your channel
I have a biorb tank light that requires pressing a button on top that flashes ( not remote controlled) could you kindly recommend a suitable time to set my light and how how many flashes i need to set it correctly?
Hi Mike. Nice to hear from you. Can I ask what model of biOrb you have as I'm not aware of a model that has lighting operated and controlled via a push button lid?
Apart from the remote and power cord (toggle) switch controls, the Moonlight biOrbs are fitted with a light sensor on the lid which automatically switches to blue moonlight when a room is darkened (on this model there is no requirement to set a timer). Thanks, Mark
Hi again. If it is the Halo moonlight, this allows the light to be set to switch on when the ambient/room light reaches a certain lighting level or darkness. The length of time it stays in the moonlight setting will vary between summer and winter. Here are the instructions.
Selecting a mode
ln the start position (white light)
1. Press once for constant moonlight (blue)
2. Press again and the white light will flash 3 times indicating the light sensor is
activated (see instructions for setting the sensor).
3. Press again to return to the start position (white light).
Setting the sensor
If you wish the lights to automatically switch to a moonlight effect at
night, a programmable sensor allows you to decide how dark the room gets
before switching over from standard lighting to moonlight.
1. Wait until the room has reached the desired level of light ie. dusk.
2. Press the light button twice for constant moonlight.
3. Press and hold the light button for 3 seconds, the moonlight will flash 3
times to indicate the sensor is now set to switch your LEDs to moonlight
when the room reaches this level of light.
The light will automatically change back to white light when the ambient light level increases beyond the level set. The light can be turned off via the inline switch and will return to the previous settings when turned on.
I tend not to bother with automatic light changes on my tanks but hopefully the above is what you needed.
Best, Mark
Thanks Mark! Really appericate you taking the time to reply.
No problem at all Mike. I hope what is provided is of some use. The reality is that I don't have Moonlight based tanks, as all of mine (5 tanks) are MCR Remotes. The other key point is that I don't use daylight to night time biOrb settings on any of my tanks. I turn them all on and off manually and, for the most part, I rely far more on natural lighting rather than tank LEDs for lighting. Anyway, I hope you manage to get your head around the system you have on your biOrb. Take care, Mark.
Thanks. How does the MCR light act after a power outage. Does it remember settings like number of daylight hours, and does it start a new day cycle or continue where it left off?
Hi. Following a power outage, or accidentally turning the light off at the mains, the light would revert to the normal factory settings. Which means you would need to re-programme/re-start. Best, Mark
Do you advise to mimic nature using these cycles as this is preferred for the fish or is it just the owners preference? I tend to leave my MCR always-on.
Hi. I don’t to tend to use the timer settings. But I think it is good to know how much light a range of tropical fish species prefer and use that as a guide for how long to leave lighting on (especially when using the brightest white setting). Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks! Too bad the timer settings aren't a bit more customizable.
Just let you know I really do love the MCR (thanks to your video!). So good to be able to dim the lights (high setting is probably too high especially if left on for too long!). Question: Would any tropical fish live in an environment which have such an intensity of light? Thanks S
Hey. You would probably struggle to find a species that has such direct light, and throughout the day. I can't think of any off the top of my head! Many environments containing tropical fish (and the species we would add to a biOrb) are vegetated (either with aquatic plants or from surrounding plants/trees). A mid to low MCR setting on the white LED is probably more reflective of the environments I have experienced fish living in during my trips to South America/ Brazil. Best wishes, Mark
Can you buy a replacement mcr unit for biorb life 15l?
Hi Paula. Yes you can (just the light part) and you can also get upgrades which are both the light and remote control. You will need to search around to get the correct one and also the correct colour. I think this one is designed for that sized tank: amzn.to/3xFwA0J. But do check before ordering! Note that you will need to get one that has the correct plug for your electricity socket supply. It will either be the single pin type version or the double pin type version. I think the link I provided above is for the double pin version. Hope that helps. Mark
On my life 60 I went for the intelligent lighting which I think is the best option for 24 auto cycle. When I bought second tank, flow 30, only option as you say are the basic one and MCR. As I didn't want to do colours I went for basic one. Drawback is, I was going to put on a timer but it shares a plug with the pump. So going to have to either buy a new transformer plug or a new pump for around the same price!
Another issue I found is that the light is just too bright, my endlers stayed at the end avoiding it when it was on so I've had to get some gray plastic to go over it to dim it slightly. So in hindsight I wish I'd gone MCR just seems a rip off for a few LEDs and a cheap remote when you can get a 5m led strip for a quarter of the price!
Thanks Peter. Yes, I agree the MCR is a better option for an aquarium - even just the ability to dim the white light makes it the first choice for me. Thanks again for watching and your support. Best, Mark
I've recently found your videos (I have subscribed) and ordered my Biorb (not yet received in the parcel). I have ordered the 60L cube. My preference would be to add around 4-5 live plants (attached to rocks or wood) and so I am wondering if the the plants would benefit from more hours of light (say 14 hours instead of the 10 you suggest). While I didn't order the standard light, I can see it would be useful to have the scheduled daylight/moonlight so maybe that is an upgrade I make later. As for the fish, I am thinking a betta with (hopefully) a few tank mates. Thank you for your helpful information and videos!
Hi Jill. Many thanks for supporting the Channel and subscribing. The main plants associated with placement on rock/wood are anubias and Java. Both are considered low light plants and do best in low to moderate lighting intensity (and duration) of light. Anubias plants are always my preference as they tend to be more robust than Java fern. Ten (to 12 hours) is more than fine (and less also fine). I will often leave my tanks to be lit by natural (room) lighting and all my plants and fish are thriving. Too much light may trigger algae growth in a new/establishing tank. Please note that wood will result in the release of tannin. This will give your water a slight colouration (brown/amber) and will very slightly soften the water. Lava rock will not cause this colour change to your water (and is inert in nature so will not alter water parameters, pH etc). See my video on plants if you haven't already. Note also my video on the new biOrb Pearl Media. If you prefer this substrate, compared to standard biOrb ceramic media, it would be far easier to cycle your tank with new substrate rather than make this change later on. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi. Sorry, forgot to add... In terms of Betta, normally about 14-16 hours (daylight time) is about right for them. This period of lighting is also fine for anubias and Java species. The MCR lighting allows you to alter the intensity of the lighting. Thanks, Mark
Hi Mark,
Great video!
With the remote, is it possible to program a mixture of LED colors (ie. red, blue, white at different intensities) or it is all one color with the ability to control the intensity of that one color?
Hi. Nice to hear from you and thanks for visiting the Channel.
In terms of the programming on the remote, there are no options to customise or program the lighting beyond the given biOrb settings. If you set the remote to automatically transition through all the different colours then each one (sort of!) fades in and then out and then changes to the new colour (it keeps repeating through the colour cycle). In this setting you would not be able to set a preferred light intensity for the transition.
As you indicate, for the fixed colour lighting, any colour, including white, can be chosen and each of those colours can be reduced or increased in its light intensity. So, in this case, you simply choose the specific colour you prefer and then you adjust its light intensity to suit what you need.
Let me know if I haven't covered what you needed. Best wishes, Mark
How do you keep consistent water temperature ? Do you use a heater ? I cant see one
Hi Gary. Yes, my aquariums are all heated. I use biOrb's Intelligent Heater systems but these are no longer available as new products. If you want a heater, that isn't so obvious within an aquarium, you need to choose a product that is properly "fully submersible" (various manufacturers do these but not Oase biOrb). That would allow you to tuck the heater out of the way (amongst biOrb plants or behind the central sculpture). biOrb Intelligent Heaters do come up as used products - eBay is probably the best place to look for one. Hope thats helps. Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you so much for your detailed answer ! Much apreciated !
Hi Gary. I looked into this for you. I would suggest you look at the Fluval Pre Set Heater range if you are after a heater that is fully submersible and can be hidden out of the way. This heater can be used either horizontally or vertically (vertical probably being the best option to hide the heater. You would need to choose the right one (they do three, P10, P25, P50) for your size of biOrb. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, this was very informative, thank you!
Is there an option to do a timer on the standard LED light? i.e it turns on + off by itself? Or should I just buy a smart plug?
Thanks so much for your help, your videos are very informative and helpful.
Hi. Thanks for watching and I'm glad you found the video useful. The standard lightly is operated via an on/off switch (positioned along the power cable). So, yes, I would assume you could operate it from a smart timer plug if you leave the light switch on. The real benefit of the MCR is largely to reduce the brightness of the lighting, which means the fish are not subject to bright light for the whole duration the lighting is on. On the other hand, the MCR couldn't be operated (on/off) via a smart timer plug as all operation of the lights is via the remote control. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Mark, one more question for you. I also have the MCR lighting but I don't know what the best setting is.
1) Should I choose the 8, 10, 12 or 14 hours for the summer period. And what about winter time?
2) Which daily period for having the light on is best: from sunrise or a few hours later? No matter what, in the summer period the time from sunrise to sunset is almost 18 hours and in the winter period it's less than 10 hours a day. So what's best for the fish - even though the blue night light is on, in the summer there is still many hours of daylight, so this night light doesn't matter for the fish - or does it?
3) I find the day setting too intensive but when I choose one of the 4 time cycles I have no other choice than the highest white setting. Isn't this annoying for the fish? When I'm from home a few days then this is the only option.
4) Is it best to turn off the lights completely at night?
Sorry for not one but four more questions - but I really want to do this the right way 😊
Thanks again and all the best,
Roel
Hi Roel
1. If you wish to use the light cycle function then either the 10 or 12 hour setting is the best setting for most tropical fish. The setting you choose is the one you would stick with all year round as it is trying to mimic the longer and stable day light hours of the environment that fish species originate from (generally a lack of discreet seasonality and little day length variation across the whole year.
2. I would choose a start time that allows the aquarium to be lit for the period you wish to see the fish. If you generally want the tank to be lit during the afternoon and early evening, then you would start the lighting cycle to coincide with that. The timing of the lighting has little to do with the conditions (daylight etc) outside the tank/ where you live. The aquarium lighting aims to create its own lighting environment within the tank. The blue light is aiming to mimic moonlight colouration.
3. Yes, I agree the high white lighting is too strong, and it is annoying that you can't set a dimmed setting when using the lighting cycle.
4. The only reason I get the MCR is the ability to dim the lights (and it doesn't cause a strobe/flicker with my video camera). I don't use it to cycle the lighting within the tank. I normally use white light that is dimmed to the third or fourth light setting, and keep it at that. Also, I will often just leave the lights off and rely on natural light, especially during the summer. All of my aquariums are placed within a reasonable proximity to windows (natural light). At night, if the lights have been on, I simply turn the lights off.
I hope that covers what you were asking about. Also, have a look at the video's Description as I cover most of the above, and more, in the text I've added to support the video.
Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you Mark. I saw this video 2 times but there were still things unclear for me. I haven't seen the text you've added as a support to the video before you mentioned it. Sorry! The text makes it so much clearer for me. Thanks /Roel
what is the bubble on top of the mcr light for?
Hi Angelika. This is basically the receiver that picks-up the different infra-red signals sent from the remote control. (i.e the transmitter). Every time you press a button on the remote it emits signals to the receiver. So, if you were to cover the bubble with your hand, for example, the receiver wouldn't be unable to pick-up the signals and the remote control would be unable to operate the lights. It works the same as a remote control used to operate a TV. Hope that makes sense. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb that makes sense! Thank you?
Anytime! :-) If I can help with anything... just let me know. Thanks for watching! Best wishes, Mark
Great discussion from you. So, now I now what those numbers do on my remote. I think the vid is also really good for current owners of biOrb's - let alone people thinking of which light to get. I hadnt thought about the day light periods for tropical fish so thought that part was really interesting. It all makes sense now. I never use the wriggly worm setting :-) Cheers, Pete
Thanks Pete. Yes, I don't use wriggly worm setting either. Lol! :) Thanks for watching. Best, Mark
I have just bought the exact same tank thats in this video. ( White flow ) and it came with the standard on/off light. For the life of me I cant find the mcr unit in fully white like yours. They all seem to have the circle in dark gray.
Hi. If it is the Flow 30 you will need the large MCR white kit. Amazon only seem to have the white/small.
eBay is probably the best place to find one- try here: www.ebay.co.uk/str/aquatics4all
Hope that helps.
Best, Mark
Just make sure you order the correct plug fitting. They do them with a double prong or single. The double is for use with the older biOrbs and for use with the Intelligent Heater Pod. New tanks will tend to need the single. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for all the help. Waiting on my water safe and colony to arrive. Think I will give it a few months to see how I get on then upgrade. Only paid £104 for the tank brand new from pets at home. So spending £90 to replace the light hurts a bit lol. Will keep my eye out for a cheap one.
Yes, good idea my friend. I would wait before upgrading too. The best feature of the MCR (for me) it to be able to dim the light intensity (can't say I really use the colours). It's a lot of money just to dim the lights though! Seems to be a bit of a monopoly going on with price increases on various biOrb products with numerous items being pushed well above their RRP!! I guess MCR might fall into that category. The biOrb intelligent heater was less than £90 six months ago, currently seems to be around £130!!
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Yea, I was lucky with the tank, Was down from £179 to £116 plus there is a 10% off code right now ( PETS23) so took it down to £104 so cant complain. Did pay £35 for the standard biorb heater mind you. Why is the cable black and not white !!! lol. Anyway. Hope to start it cycling on Wed one my Colony stuff arrives. ( Bought after watching you setup vid ) My first tank in about 15 years, Used to have a huge Juewl tank. Its amazing what you forget though, lol
Hi there does it make the appearance of the fish more vibrant? Because the classic led does not show a beautiful display of colors in the fish. Thank you
Hi my friend. Good question! I would probably say yes, in as much as displaying the fish how they are supposed to be (rather than promoting more intense colour more than they should be!). High intensity light (standard LED) can make everything, including many fish, look a bit washed out. It is too bright for many species. MCR allows the reduction of the light intensity. My cherry barbs are a good example, both males and females, show far better colouration on a lower light intensity (in my case: a mid brightness setting on MCR). Colour intensity of fish reflects the health of the fish (e.g water quality), the quality of their food, as well as light setting. Best wishes, Mark
Maybe I’m a bit dense, but I’m still having trouble setting my tank on a cycle. Do I press “on” first, followed by “10” (or 14 or 8 etc)? I just hit the “10” button but nothing is happening.
Hi Lisa. Don't worry, it is a bit confusing until you get your head around it. The problem is that biOrb are not the best at giving guidance on their products. Most (typical) tropical fish that people add to a biOrb will need a 10 or 12 hour setting and these settings will also work well for most mixed community tropical fish. The hours shown reflect the daylight hour length. A 10hr setting will provide: a short period of "sunrise", 10 hours of daylight, a short period of "sunset" and then the rest will be night time (moonlight blue). In all settings the sunrise and sunset times are roughly the same (it is daylight and night hours that will vary more. To use it, turn OFF your remote. Then press ON. Then press the time you want to use (let's say 10 HR). The aquarium LED light will (should!) change to a blue colour. This starts the cycle and the blue reflects the end of the night setting and the start of the sunrise - so the light will progress through this and move into daylight (for the hours you choose), then into sunset and then into night. You will need to choose the best time to start the sunrise so that the aquarium cycles through the daylight setting at the best time to suit yourself. Once the timer is started you will not need to touch the remote. If you do alter anything you will need to set the timer going again. Give it a try and see how it goes. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank u! It worked!
Did that work? :)
So the timer does not go to complete darkness it stays a dark blue? I set, and I wait it eventually went to dark blue, but fish should be in complete dark. Doesn't seem to do this. Am I correct? The timer goes dark blue, then in the morning, it will get brighter, which is nice but needs to be dark at night...
Hi, Yes, that is correct. The biOrb led timer moves to "moonlight" (blue) during the night and then progresses to daylight (white) during the day. I don't use the timer function and prefer the fish to be in natural dark during the night. Tropical fish also prefer a fairly extensive period of night time (depending on species and where they originate). Best, Mark
Can you slow down the cycle as it seems it’s changing extremely fast?
Also once you select a timer does it stay on that for good until you change it? Or does it stop after the 10 hours have passed?
Reason I’m asking is because I have to go for a few days and wanted the lights on timer function whilst I’m away. Was looking at the 10hour timer as you suggested.
Hi. Unfortunately you have little control... apart from the timer options on the remote. There is no other way to "slow down" the timer cycle... apart from you choosing to use a longer/shorter day light length. But, that also goes for most timers of this kind so it is not just a biOrb thing! Once the cycle button is pressed it will continue to cycle on the chosen day light timing. It would only stop cycling if you cancel the timer via the remote. The idea is that you choose your preferred start time for the cycle, then press the timer button and then leave it alone. It should then cycle. Once started it will stay on that cycle unless you cancel it. So, yes, it will stay on that cycle unless you determine otherwise. Ten hours of daylight (less than we currently have in the UK) is about right for many tropical (e.g south American, African) species. Hope that helps, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb tha m you for the detailed answer. Much appreciated. That’s exactly what I needed to know.
The 10 hours was just a example as you said in the video, what would you recommend here in the UK?
Also when you click the filter back in the base should it properly lock In place?
As with the lightest of turn it unlocks. I thought it would have have some resistance atleast.
Hi. Hope all is well. The light setting on a biOrb remote aims to replicate the normal (wild/natural) day light periods that would be exposed to the species you have in the tank. In countries such as north Brazil the number of hours of daylight is roughly similar to the number of hours of night time - and there is little variation throughout the year ("winter" or "summer"). So, the setting you choose is not based on where you live (e.g. in the UK), but instead is about replicating the conditions of wild fish with those fish species you have. For most tropical fish, including a mixed species aquarium, I think between about 10-12 hours daylight will roughly reflect the daylight hours normally experienced for most wild tropical fish (of African, South American origin etc). So, the lighting setting in a biOrb creates a false day and nighttime compared to the UK. The setting will determine the length of aquarium daylight hours that the fish will experience within the tank and is not aiming to reflect the daylight/outside hours of where you live. In the UK, the daylight setting within the tank will remain daylight... even though the UK winter has moved into darkness. In the summer, when the UK's daylight hours are longer than 10-12 hours, the tank will instead disregard the UK's daylight hours and instead move into a night time mode. It will still be sunny outside in the UK, but the tank will have gone into night time lighting. Hope that makes sense.
In terms of locking the filter system. Yes, the difference between locking and unlocking is only a small turn . For locking, this just needs you to put the two halves of the filter system together and then (by holding the bubble tube) briefly turn the bubble tube part anti-clockwise to lock (or turn clockwise to unlock). Once locked the two elements of the filter system will be held suitably together and then will be good to add back to the aquarium.
Best wishes, Mark
I do seem to have to take everything out every week and clean it, ive now cut the light down to 4hours, how long do you keep your on for?
Ive no real plants and alot of white decs so the algae etc does show up more easily.
Yes, lighting can certainly increase algae (and also having the aquarium near to direct sunlight). I often have days where I leave the lighting mainly off and when I do have it on have it set at the low MCR white light setting. But algae growth is also related to water nutrient levels. As a starter, what is your normal nitrate level range during the week (or, what level does it reach during a week before doing a water change)? Nerite snails are fairly good also for helping to keep algae levels down and might be more advantageous than live plants
@@StepbyStep-biOrb I have nerites in another tank, i moved them from all my other tanks to one tank to try and work out what ones were males so i dont get those eggs everywhere.
This tank is my wifes or so i let her think that lol, i did tell her we could put one in there but need to make sure its a male, ill cut the light down in intensity now and then as well and see how that goes then.
Yes, there's no need to have lights full on for prolonged periods of time. So, check out the water quality to see how much nutrient you are building up in the tank. Nitrate level is probably the key one to look at We can look to see if we can get that down - although it is likely that what you are seeing is a just the product of having a new tank and it can takes many many months for a tank to fully settle down. I agree, one Nerite would probably be about right in that size tank. There's no need to worry about them reproducing young as they require brackish water for that to happen. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Also, is it algae (green) or diatoms (brown)?
Hi, I’m looking for an aquarium light for my axolotl tank because they don’t like the bright leds, do you think this light would be a good fit?
Hi. Is your axolotl tank a biOrb? If so, yes the MCR would probably be a good move as it allows the white (and all other colours) to be reduced right down in intensity. You also have the option to use 'other than white' colours which might also be beneficial to light sensitive species. If you have biOrb standard LED lighting I would say, roughly, that the standard light intensity is similar to the very highest setting on the MCR. Don't hold me to it (as i haven't tested it!) but the MCR should allow this to be dropped by say 3/4 (i.e. to a 1/4 of the intensity of standard lighting). Very interesting question... that's a first for me. :) Nice to hear from you. Best, Mark.
Went to change the filter in my 9.2 gallon Tube and can’t get it out! Evidently, this isn’t so unusual. I hate this tank.
Hi Donna. I'm not sure why that would be and it's the first time I've heard of that issue during the time I've run this channel. To remove it, it should be a simple case of putting you hand into the tank, grabbing hold of the bubble tube and turning it anti-clockwise and then the whole unit should lift out. ua-cam.com/video/3K6PHgzrYww/v-deo.html#:~:text=Twist%20and%20release%20the%20bubble,place%20and%20you're%20done. It has a very simple lock mechanism so there shouldn't be anything causing it to stick. To add it back in, do the opposite of the above.
I have a totally different remote and I can't get my lights to come on at all
Hi Teresa... what sort of remote/ lighting system do you have? The MCR remote I showed in the video works the same as the recent (all white) version. Unless you have a faulty remote or a faulty light system (if so you should return for a replacement) they should all, at a very minimum, switch on and off the LED lights. Excuse my silly question, but have you made sure the batteries in the remote are fully charged and are placed in the remote correctly? Best, Mark
Should the lighting be turned off at night. I have set my timer for 12 hours and the light changes to 'moonlight' effect till morning then kicks in with white light.. but just wondering if the fish need/prefer no lights on during the night?
I tend just to turn mine off. Tropical fish do need a reasonable period of darkness/ night (so, no lights is good). For me, the best thing about the MCR is the ability to dim the white lights - rather than being on a full bright setting all day long. I tend to use the third button down on the light brightness setting. Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark :)
Is it possible to program the daylight cycles 10, 12, 14 hour etc. with a color rather than white light?
I just read through some of the other comments and now see that the MCR daylight function cannot be programmed for a color other than bright white. Thanks for your help and awesome videos. Think I’ll try the gel filters you suggested.
Hi, yes, this is a question that does get raised and unfortunately it is bright white (daylight) or nothing when it comes to the timer settings. I hope the gel filters provide a solution, I cant see why they shouldn't. Best wishes and Happy New Year, Mark