I've been doing it wrong for 40 years. I've been taking stock cars with AT tyres to almost every "name" destination in Australia from the Vic High Country to the Simpson Desert. My mate has done the same in a car with no low range. It's a laugh getting to a destination and we can almost park underneath the cars already there. I can't do extreme rock climbing but I find that boring and it breaks cars anyway. It's amazing where a stock car can go. When I started, we had no money at all for that sort of stuff, we could barely afford the car and it was always 2nd hand. I chuckle when people say they need all that stuff to go 4wding. I floated a VW beetle across a river once. Having said that, I do enjoy your content Ronny, you haven't sold out and all the other stuff you say rings true from my personal experience.
@@joshualin3366 yes. The early ones were quite light. We used to be able to drop the motor in the rear onto the ground and manually lift the car over it. The motor was an air cooled glorified motor bike engine. Those were the days.
Glad you did this video. That's exactly how I built my 80 series K294 to go CO trailing right after purchase in 2017. ~$250 - $300 a month spend. And over 3 seasons built my rig all cash. Highly recommend - patience pays.
Bash Plates, I listened to whole video and they were not mentioned once. In my opinion Bash plates are the cheapest form of insurance to protect your vehicle off road and should be in my opinion one of the first mods.
@@intimatespearfisher I considered that might be a factor. All I know is that the bash plates definitely saved me from spending thousands repairing transmission and sumps.
Since I'm watching this late but before the follow up video. I would 100% go the dual battery/agm route in the first year IF you're going to be doing longer than a weekend trip. The benefits to AGM is you can leave it installed for the eventual winch upgrade and many vehicles have space under the hood AND they're cheap!
Great video. I have 150 Prado with 150l tank so no auxiliary tank, did a 2100k round trip from Sydney to Darling River headwaters above Bourke & used 175l, do the maths. I've had it just over a year & have spent about 12k on it. 2 inch lift with bigger mono shockies, ARB Smartbar, the plastic one, don't start crying, a week after fitting a crackhead comes hurtling down the street where I was parked, hits me at 50kh pushes me back through air over 4 metres & no damage to me except bar bent up about 20mm, crackhead was a right off. Bar is also half weight of steel so I can fit winch, lights UHF & still be lighter. Also driving light & UHF. Also had engine tuned, 20% more power & very economical. To round up i fitted Kaon rear table & shelving to back door, brilliant addition
To be fair, after 35 years nearly of doing any track I point the vehicle at, a stock standard vehicle with the only mod being AT tyres, works fine, you don't need anything special, you're just adding to the "You need this to 4wd" people. You don't! You need a mechanically sound, well engineered 4x4 to start with, then load with minimal kit, an awning is nice, but not necessary, a fridge is nice, but not necessary - I've never owned one! Pick foods that don't need refrigeration. As for compressor, yes, buy a decent one straight off, cheap is buy twice and will let you down when you need it, I have a failed ARB one here somewhere, it failed on the electrical side as they put low quality connectors on it. Winch, not necessary, but some form of self recovery is, whether that be a manual winch or a hi-lift jack, which are really good for winching. Pick where you go and prep well, the rest will sort itself out.
Certainly a nice guide for building on a budget. With that said what I feel should be mentioned at the beginning for the Foundation, if possible get a vehicle with a Locker from the Factory. In the long run it will save you a lot and allow you to get further as needed. After having previous vehicles without lockers and now having a vehicle with a locker, I can say it is certainly a great idea for the Foundation!!
good video, even though my exact order has differed, the general trend is similar one of the most fun parts of 4x4 driving has been pacing out the upgrades and trying to put them in an order that both makes sense, avoids wasting money, but also keeps expanding the range of adventures I can take myself and my family (in safety). just threw in my 8-switch system and my camp lights, can't wait to put them to a real test soon what a great hobby. I fucking love offroading lol
There was no mention of protections, I think they should be put in year 1 instead of compressor, fridge and/or awning. The cost of not having them can easily set you back a year. Get some good skid plates and rock sliders for peace of mind Also there's a bonus pre-phase that should be added if you buy used : do a complete maintenance, make sure everything is working properly and known issues from your platform has been adressed (looking at you death wobble !)
All his mates are tired of getting used to make his channel money for him. They have to fork out for all their own stuff and have the inconvenience of waiting for him to film. But don't really get any benefit.
My rig cost me 3000 quid all in (including maintenance and cost of vehicle) and she has taken me all over the country and Europe. Tyres Never got a lift Cheap roof rack that I strengthened with an old metal shelving unit (no welding) Some cheap lights Spade (that I got for free) Built a simple draw system/bed platform Bought a posh double air mattress for 150 quid Cut some reflectix for the windows. Made a drop down table. Cheap recovery boards Couple of chairs and a cheap gas cooker and we we're off. We've been in thunderstorms, hail, hard rain, brutal heat, she copes with it all.
Back in Europe we used to be experts at footbal (real one mate) and women.. pff, I know!! In AU it's the overlanding. Now, you are a real expert but please remember that we all are :-))) You're also a fulltime youtuber. Mortals however, have to go to work daily with the same car. Many times carrying tools and what not. As a result your lists may slightly change. I'm also lucky to not need a car for work, so I use my 4x4 exclusively for the bush, but I also have friends with just one universal car. And in my (their?) experience, though I mostly agree with your priorities, I dare to add a few notes. Furniture is not a must, not even after the first 3 years. Simple plastic boxes, stackable and well anchored. They do the job, removable. I never needed a bullbar (perhaps lucky) and I used the winch only twice in 35+ years. But I do use my judgement, it works for me. It works for many! I don't practice survival, I'm not training for driving on Mars and I'm also not an youtuber, thus I don't like drama :-) I now only have the maxtracks for backup, and I used them on the beach once. No bulbar, no winch, no recovery points on the front, no bashplates under the tanks and gearbox, etc. I do have a tow bar though. And breathers, because HighCountry!! The car is MUCH lighter and with my 2inch lift and 34inch mud tires it does a fine job. I use the same compressor from Kings I bought 10+ years ago, 2 cilinders, quick enough (for the 34inch tires). It blows air like the ARB! A handheld radio it was always enough for me, especially with a charger/holder; even walkie-talkies if you drive within a couple km from the others. I only use a normal tent, swags are ok just take precious space. Rooftop tents have only cons and no pros for me. A portable battery (charging when the car is running) and a good solar blanket is my way. I wouldn't even go over 60 Amps (lithium) for just a fridge. You can charge most of the laptops now with an 150W 12V USB-C charger. Weight matters! I used for the last 15 years a small Iwatani stove with the cheappest gasbottles from Bunnings, I can cook anything and I'm proud to say I'm the chef in any trip we go. My secret is I carry 2 light stoves, both Iwatani (they just have the best gas flow, the 35FW has 15,000BTU/h), the 2nd is a grill. I don't need induction or a coffee machine, Jesus! A simple Airpress can do even espresso with a little attachment. Best latte in Simpson! I have a nice 40L Dometic fridge, light and good size for me. But Kings fridges produce the same cold beer. I can continue but I believe you'll do a much better job with a part 2 going light(er). Not budget .. just smart(er)? My 2c
Video series idea Get a mechanic on board and every few weeks go over popular 4x4s and run though what to look for and what to walk away from for each car
I got caught the other day, I have two sets of tyres M/T and A/T at present have the A/T on the vehicle and dirt road after rain they turned into racing slicks in no time, had recovery boards with me and had to use them to get out of an awkward situation. Personally I believe underbody protection should be high on the list, cheap insurance compared to the cost of repairing holes in sumps or transmissions.
I work in the forest with heavy machinery, and definitely, bash plates are a MUST have! A lot of things could go very bad if you misjudge your clearance. We´ve got machines weighing tens of tons resting on those plates, but as long as those stumps or rocks aren´t touching the forged engine or tranny parts, it´s still good, and you can even drag the machines along those plates! However, if you rested the weight of the machine on those parts without warding, you might not even notice that it punched a hole straight through.
Com radio - As I’m in unregulated Central America I got two 5W triple band Baofeng walkie talkies that I easily converted to quad band’s. I use one walkie talkie as a stationary radio in the cabin with an external microphone. A special made low loss cable goes to the roof where I can choose the best antenna for the day out of the five variants I have. The other radio has the same antenna options to choose from so both radios always have the best antenna considering frequency, environment, and practicality. A good radio is important and I have done what suits me best.
Ive been on a budget my whole life and I’d say first thing would be bash plates. Nothing worse than sweating blood and tears to get a car and than destroying something on a small rock.. Second thing (as an other comment said) winch for sure, if ur doing a lot of solo exploring or with other cars, cant count the times Ive been with 2 tires under a path with a hudge dropoff, no amount of maxtracks cant help there.. you can get a winch mount witouth a bullbar for majority of cars i think.. From that forward people shuld have already quite a lot of seat time and would know what they need for their particular driving style.. in Europe we do a lot of snow wheeling, a lift is nice to have for not bellying out, and winch! Oh did i mention tires, yes better tires provide more grip sure thats why we get them BUT normal street tires puncture super fast, drive over a small branch unlucely aaand you know the rest.. just my 2cents
No bull bar for me because the animals I have here in Central America are driving cars too and they are easily avoided. No winch either. Because I rarely see I’d need one. Not yet that is. Snorkel, probably not. But I have invested in double diff-lockers. They are by far the best mod I’ve done to the car so far. They made my Gen4 Jimny a mountain goat!
Thanks Ronny, as usual very sound advice. Ive just bought a Delica that I want to convert into a camper but I also want to spend some money on its off road capabilities, i was planning on MD tyres, suspension and a lift kit as the first 3 big things to do. Then (I’m in QLD btw) roof rack to mount the 270 awning followed up with a Glind hot water system and an Aussie made Eva cool fridge, thinking 95lt? A long range tank and diff locks front and rear. Love your channel mate I always get great tidbits of knowledge from you on things i thought i knew about. You’re my 4x4 go-to-guy.👌👍🥇
I've done a little bit of every stage on my n70 Hilux so far. I'm not gonna do any touring or any hardcore 4WDing. I'm planning on getting Diff locks, a lift kit, and bigger tyres next year. A second battery, I'll get to that
If you have lockers, the winch becomes semi redundant. I have both for 25 years in my 80 series diesel 1HZ Fridge is a wank if you do 10 day trips since you will actually run out of fresh produce before then. Beer is not it. Real men drink straight whiskey, no need to keep cold 😅 Lift 50mm suspension and 50mm body lift, get some Goodrich tyres but larger and some rock sliders, snorkel and cheap awning. Been all over Australia many times in 400,000km of touring and have simplified to perfection. Keep it light instead of overloaded and it off roads much better anyway, especially on sand
@@intimatespearfisher how is it illegal to body lift? Did you make that up? 🤷♂️ Here’s an extract from VSI 6: Fitting of body mountings, a body lift kit or mounting points other than those designed by the vehicle manufacturer. Example not requiring certification: • Fitting optional body lift kits or mountings that are designed for that make and model of vehicle and meet or exceed manufacturer’s specifications.
Thanks for the advice. It's funny when you say it, it seems obvious but it's well worth hearing because it's easy to get distracted and we all have that friend that says no you need this or that...
I don´t know your friends very well, but look at their cars and judge them by those. Ronny´s an exception - most guys that know what it takes offroad are going to have old, beaten up cars, not shiny new ones that someone paid a fortune to get a second, sacrificial shell on. What I would get for offroading, is a cheap set of tools, that will always be #1, I buy that for every vehicle I own. Tire plugs, those strips that you can install on the fly, I´d carry some of those, because it´s a tiny package that will solve a lot of problems. Offroading is hard on the tires, especially car tires, which is why I would stay away from those standard ones. I don´t believe Ronny´s ever talked about this, but offroad tires have way better sidewall protection, which is really important offroad. Pinching a hole in the sidewall is way more critical than a hole from a nail anywhere in the tire.
Yep, a second battery and a fridge with a cold booze are a must when in the middle of nowhere you'll be sitting in the middle of a ford with a knocked engine and waiting days for recovery to arrive. But seriously, maybe a good list, but too overfitted to Australia specifics. This should probably have been explicity mentioned in the beginning a few times😅
In my case my ute is first and foremost a work car that goes into the WA Wheatbelt daily on mostly gravel roads and always during skip hours. For that reason I put the bullbar lights and UHF on first then tyres (on steelies of course) then suspension last as it was a trip to the city job and had to be done around work commitments. I went a non adjustable monotube suspension because I don’t plan on driving for hours flat out on rough roads and after riding dirt bikes for years and often getting suspension clickers wrong and taking a dirt sample I’d rather have something that handles the same way all the time and learning the way to drive it accordingly.
Fantastic assessment and information. Still managed to go most places in my unlifted stock wheels n tyres, only a mobile 2nd battery, fridge, bullbar, towbar, recovery points n spotlights. All bar fridge n 2nd battery was done pre-purchase
Thank for sharing all your knowledge. I’m from Spain (Europe). Here all the modifications are about half priced . I’m finished completely the second part modifications and it cost me about 5000€ ARB 60 liters fridge. OME NITROCHARGER PLUS suspension, General Grabber AT/3 tyres , BRAID reinforced aluminium Wheels, engine, automátic gear box na central differential 8 mm aluminium protecttions, self made drawers, reconvery gear. Stainless steel Rock slidders Auxialiary battery everything, VHF Radio station, roof rack inside … All mounted in my Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 120.
@@boc3499😂😂😂 Probably you are one of those people that needs a 70 Series with a huge preparattion just to carry your babys to school My 120 has crossed Marocco and Argelia (África) and the Alpes mountains about 9.000 km bouht trips un just 4 weeks with 3 people and none problem. I will enjoy my trolley for many years more. You can keep on crossing the streets of your city 😂😂😂
I achieved the three year plan after purchase. I brought with bull bar, drivers lights, roof rack and tonneau cover. Within one month, I had to replace the suspension and tyres because the factory provided died (two tyres became couldn’t hold air and two shocks died). Within three years after I had everything except for lockers and a long range tank. Twelve years later and I still haven’t gotten them.
this vid came just in time for me I don't have much to do to my truck itself but the recovery gear and some things needing repairs is the perfect excuse for upgrades! Got it 2 months ago 2010 Raptor :p been giving it lots of love as it seems the last owner didn't but I believe it will last me a while once I finish freshening it up.
Awesome! I love your take on it, been there myself and I might just buy another one like that some day! Sometimes you do it out of necessity, but either way, restoring vehicles can be so very rewarding! All the best of luck to you!
Another good vid mate. I watch less than i used too but you have a simple way to get the advise across to your audience. When ever ppl ask me how i know all i do 4x4, i tell em its practice, experience and ronny dahl video's
I have a stock 2002 Hilux, the 3.4L petrol, 225/75R16's, when I upgraded to KO2's I requested slightly larger tyres, they said they couldn't by law, also if you do want bigger and can get them, make sure the spare mount can take a larger tyre.
I run around europe with a 2000 subaru forester, whole thing so far cost me less then six grand. tires, lift, swag, awning, light, comms, winch, snorkel, cheap cooler then lasts me 4 years already. might not go as far as a cruiser on 35s but get there 90% of the way and parts are waaaaay cheaper if something breaks.
compressor, tyre pressure gauge, recovery gear. offroad tyres, snorkel, uhf radio, maps. winch and winch cradle or steel bull bar if your 4wd didn't come with one. rock sliders, skidplates or other protection if lacking. suspension lift if necessary smallest amount possible to clear larger tyres. larger tyres, full case lockers and diff re-gearing to suit larger tyres if necessary. rear bar, swing out tyre carrier to suit larger tyres if necessary.
Guess I scored big I recently brought a new 4x4 and had just about everything you spoke about in this video! Only thing is an armrest so I guess I know what’s next now that I saved a few buxs!
Well we go all over the place in the 90 and our build allows us to camp and be fully self sufficient. We didn't add a lot of what is on this list and the all up cost was less than $10k. I did most of the work myself so that helped to save money and if I can do it, snyone can.
Hopefully you’ve captured a new market with these videos? Hope everything is ok with Torben, saw a clip with him out camping without you Ronnie. I’m sure you don’t live in each others pockets, but he only gets annual leave….we like you camping together. 😊
I agreed with everything in year one except the fridge and awning. The fridge should be year 3. If you have a budget, year 1 is like backpacking with a car. Non-perishable food and simple camping gear.
From South Africa my mantra.... if you can't hold it, you can't fix it. Having said that, I have mounted a vice on my bull bar, which, although not used often, has proven to be immeasurably useful. Your take on adding a vice ?
Hey. Can you do a video with the different cost in building a ute and van. Maybe 79 vs 76. I think there a lot more cost with a ute for not that much more space.
The grenadier makes a solid choice, if optioned correctly, many of the items come from the factory. Add some mud terrains, a roof rack with a 52” light bar, and a 270 awning + some cabinets and a fridge slide with fridge in the boot, and you’re ready to rock and roll. $150KAUD
I have a question, my Tacoma comes with electronic rear diff locker. is an air locker better? do people upgrade from electronic to air? do they make one for the front of the tacoma?
I no shit, saved up money for 2 years and then I did all the mods at once. and because I did that I was able to go all out and get it how I wanted first time go. I know not everyone like that route.
I rate this video as one of your best videos. Of course, all are extremely useful but I put this one up there with the GVM video. I have a 78 and I have a feeling that the brakes are not as stoppable as they should be, particularly when parked on a slope. Just wondering if doing a brake upgrade should be one of these things you should do first with that particular vehicle?
That’s a hard one to answer unless you know how much load is going into the vehicle, if you know you are putting a lot of weight on it then that point should be explored earlier rather than later
No but if you wish to upgrade this is the plan I’d follow. Stock cars can go 95% of places and 25% of these places with great difficulty, risk and compromises
All good ideas and thought process, but...... this seems more orientated towards wagon setups , there are some specific costs that are far more for ute setups..
Just get an ineos and put in a bigger fuel tank - for the money of a Toyota and all this you would just about be there or equal and not have such great integrated electrics and a kick ass platform
- welding rod to lock your diffs $20 - a stick as an airdown tool free - Some patagonia geolanders in 35's or 37's $400 - recovery points (make them) $10 steel and welding rod - farm jack $50 - a recovery kinetic roap $150 - literally any 12v compressor $30 - a shovel
Appreciate the content Ronny but I'm really missing the wheeling. The content is now too heavily focused on "Ronny's advice". Please bring back the wheeling. and advice as a secondary form of content. Cheers
Remember it's, Things I wish I had known (in the past). What you've written: "things I wish I knew" refers to something you would like to know now or in the future, so it's bit confusing ⚠️🤪 at least it's only a thumbnail to change 😊
On behalf of all Scandinavians still stuck in northern Europe, I apologise for this stray specimen. Also, you missed a comma between "Remember" and "it´s". Also, there is a logical error in your text, where you imply that people will sometimes have a magical sense to figure out what they would like to know in the future. No wonder you´re confused. Maybe stay off the drugs for a week or two ;)
You shouldn´t have a comma after "it´s"! Maybe before, but the rest of your comment is so messed up it´s hard to figure it out. Also, your opinion is not really relevant, but I understand that you´re confused.
Can't disagree more regarding your placement of a snorkel in the list Ronny. If you have a diesel, then a snorkel is the number one mod. You've obviously never hydroliced an engine during an "easy" river crossing. They are cheap insurance and I won't take anyone away on a trip without one!
All depends on one's preference. If I recall, Ronny did install a Harrop E-Locker on the front of the Troopy simply for the fact the rear was already an E-Locker. For a vehicle that already has a Factory E-Locker, I say that would be the way to go for the front.
I have no clue about the differences on these things used on cars, but I´ve had quite a bit of heavy machinery all with electric diff. locks, so the principle is not even a question for me. Also, anything that requires air to operate, also requires another unit to work before it can even start. Air leaks are a pain in the butt, and in my climate frost is also a concern about those, because compressing air collects moisture, which in turn can freeze or generate the climate that rust thrives in. Electrical stuff is easy to measure, ward, and fix. If it breaks in the wild, tough luck either way, but there´s people living with these things every day in forestry, construction, mining etc. Air leaks are really terrible to fix on the go! Heavy machinery still uses electrical actuators, because of how the locks themselves are made. They don´t require a lot of power to engage, just a nudge, and if they´re built right, water and corrosion won´t be a problem either.
@@olenilsen4660compressing air doesn’t create moisture. Releasing air pressure causes dissolved moisture to condense due to partial pressure of water vapour. But that’s a technicality. Anyway, the little moisture which may form in diffs can also form from simply cooling diffs during a water crossing. Driving heats the diff oil which then drives off the moisture. Not really a reason to avoid air lockers. I have them front and rear for 25 years in my cruiser, and have never seen a spec of rust inside the diffs on the few occasions I’ve broken crown wheels or pinions 🤷♂️
FFS what happened b4 Lithium came out did the world fall apart. Ive been running a dual battery with aN AGM for years without an issus. And i have hard mounted my Kings Double thumper compressor and it's faster than your $1000 ARB twin compressor.
If you guys are so clever why dont you make your own content! Before you go on these trips you want to see you need to build the vehicle to be able to handle these trips! Dont bother yourself with these haters Ronny! Remember lions dont lose sleep over the opinions of lambs!
Watched your last video and said you should ditch the AI images. I now see an AI thumbnail. I clicked on the video just to write this comment, but I'm not watching it.
I got 5100 for ~$600, ARB skids for ~$600, High output single cylinder air compressor in a toolbox ~$400, 5 takeoff FJ Cruiser steelies ~$350, Tires ~$1600, Recovery kit ~$600, emergency booster pack ~$120, home made 3rd row seat delete/tire holder ~$100, Dr KDSS kdss actuation switch and harness ~$250, AGM conversion ~$400. EBC Green Stuff Pads/new rotors, Motul DOT 5.1 ~$600 Love my GX460, it's going to be epic in Colorado when I move there in 2 weeks. $5000 ua-cam.com/channels/tJ8dkeTyeqXByRx0Cvfiaw.htmlcommunity?lb=UgkxkheiiPJIEQwgFRXI7x8tRPMdDFNOwX-o
I've been doing it wrong for 40 years. I've been taking stock cars with AT tyres to almost every "name" destination in Australia from the Vic High Country to the Simpson Desert. My mate has done the same in a car with no low range. It's a laugh getting to a destination and we can almost park underneath the cars already there. I can't do extreme rock climbing but I find that boring and it breaks cars anyway. It's amazing where a stock car can go. When I started, we had no money at all for that sort of stuff, we could barely afford the car and it was always 2nd hand. I chuckle when people say they need all that stuff to go 4wding. I floated a VW beetle across a river once. Having said that, I do enjoy your content Ronny, you haven't sold out and all the other stuff you say rings true from my personal experience.
key words "haven't sold out". true
I'd like to hear more about this 'floated a VW beetle across a river' 🤣
vw beetles float????
@@joshualin3366 yes. The early ones were quite light. We used to be able to drop the motor in the rear onto the ground and manually lift the car over it. The motor was an air cooled glorified motor bike engine. Those were the days.
@@joshualin3366 ua-cam.com/video/xz7qxQcRYl4/v-deo.html
Glad you did this video.
That's exactly how I built my 80 series K294 to go CO trailing right after purchase in 2017.
~$250 - $300 a month spend. And over 3 seasons built my rig all cash.
Highly recommend - patience pays.
Bash Plates, I listened to whole video and they were not mentioned once. In my opinion Bash plates are the cheapest form of insurance to protect your vehicle off road and should be in my opinion one of the first mods.
That and rock sliders!
definitely, I was going up a hill for one of the first time with rocks sticking out. Peace of mind that my whole entire under side is now protected
He's on the west coast. It's mostly sand. East coast it's the first mod I'm doing next build. Sliders and under body protection.
@@intimatespearfisher I considered that might be a factor. All I know is that the bash plates definitely saved me from spending thousands repairing transmission and sumps.
I run vehicles that don't need them... saves on another cost...
Since I'm watching this late but before the follow up video. I would 100% go the dual battery/agm route in the first year IF you're going to be doing longer than a weekend trip. The benefits to AGM is you can leave it installed for the eventual winch upgrade and many vehicles have space under the hood AND they're cheap!
This is the most important video you’ve ever made. I now need the spreadsheet
Very nice video Ronny. Having everything on paper is easier than just trying to sit things in your head!
Great video. I have 150 Prado with 150l tank so no auxiliary tank, did a 2100k round trip from Sydney to Darling River headwaters above Bourke & used 175l, do the maths.
I've had it just over a year & have spent about 12k on it. 2 inch lift with bigger mono shockies, ARB Smartbar, the plastic one, don't start crying, a week after fitting a crackhead comes hurtling down the street where I was parked, hits me at 50kh pushes me back through air over 4 metres & no damage to me except bar bent up about 20mm, crackhead was a right off. Bar is also half weight of steel so I can fit winch, lights UHF & still be lighter. Also driving light & UHF. Also had engine tuned, 20% more power & very economical. To round up i fitted Kaon rear table & shelving to back door, brilliant addition
To be fair, after 35 years nearly of doing any track I point the vehicle at, a stock standard vehicle with the only mod being AT tyres, works fine, you don't need anything special, you're just adding to the "You need this to 4wd" people. You don't! You need a mechanically sound, well engineered 4x4 to start with, then load with minimal kit, an awning is nice, but not necessary, a fridge is nice, but not necessary - I've never owned one! Pick foods that don't need refrigeration. As for compressor, yes, buy a decent one straight off, cheap is buy twice and will let you down when you need it, I have a failed ARB one here somewhere, it failed on the electrical side as they put low quality connectors on it. Winch, not necessary, but some form of self recovery is, whether that be a manual winch or a hi-lift jack, which are really good for winching. Pick where you go and prep well, the rest will sort itself out.
Certainly a nice guide for building on a budget. With that said what I feel should be mentioned at the beginning for the Foundation, if possible get a vehicle with a Locker from the Factory. In the long run it will save you a lot and allow you to get further as needed. After having previous vehicles without lockers and now having a vehicle with a locker, I can say it is certainly a great idea for the Foundation!!
good video, even though my exact order has differed, the general trend is similar
one of the most fun parts of 4x4 driving has been pacing out the upgrades and trying to put them in an order that both makes sense, avoids wasting money, but also keeps expanding the range of adventures I can take myself and my family (in safety). just threw in my 8-switch system and my camp lights, can't wait to put them to a real test soon
what a great hobby. I fucking love offroading lol
There was no mention of protections, I think they should be put in year 1 instead of compressor, fridge and/or awning. The cost of not having them can easily set you back a year. Get some good skid plates and rock sliders for peace of mind
Also there's a bonus pre-phase that should be added if you buy used : do a complete maintenance, make sure everything is working properly and known issues from your platform has been adressed (looking at you death wobble !)
I’m sorry Ronny but when are the trip videos coming back like you use to do with torbs and the rest of the boys like a good 45 min vid.
I reckon he's gone more auto journalism style as they don't get the views anymore, they struggle to crack 40k views
All his mates are tired of getting used to make his channel money for him. They have to fork out for all their own stuff and have the inconvenience of waiting for him to film. But don't really get any benefit.
@@intimatespearfisherare you speaking from experience? 😂
He just did four videos out with the ineos through the pilbara
The bung under the air box, Ronny tells us about that, lol. Great video Ronny and some really good advice in the stages to build a tourer.
My rig cost me 3000 quid all in (including maintenance and cost of vehicle) and she has taken me all over the country and Europe.
Tyres
Never got a lift
Cheap roof rack that I strengthened with an old metal shelving unit (no welding)
Some cheap lights
Spade (that I got for free)
Built a simple draw system/bed platform
Bought a posh double air mattress for 150 quid
Cut some reflectix for the windows.
Made a drop down table.
Cheap recovery boards
Couple of chairs and a cheap gas cooker and we we're off.
We've been in thunderstorms, hail, hard rain, brutal heat, she copes with it all.
Back in Europe we used to be experts at footbal (real one mate) and women.. pff, I know!! In AU it's the overlanding. Now, you are a real expert but please remember that we all are :-))) You're also a fulltime youtuber. Mortals however, have to go to work daily with the same car. Many times carrying tools and what not. As a result your lists may slightly change. I'm also lucky to not need a car for work, so I use my 4x4 exclusively for the bush, but I also have friends with just one universal car. And in my (their?) experience, though I mostly agree with your priorities, I dare to add a few notes. Furniture is not a must, not even after the first 3 years. Simple plastic boxes, stackable and well anchored. They do the job, removable. I never needed a bullbar (perhaps lucky) and I used the winch only twice in 35+ years. But I do use my judgement, it works for me. It works for many! I don't practice survival, I'm not training for driving on Mars and I'm also not an youtuber, thus I don't like drama :-) I now only have the maxtracks for backup, and I used them on the beach once. No bulbar, no winch, no recovery points on the front, no bashplates under the tanks and gearbox, etc. I do have a tow bar though. And breathers, because HighCountry!! The car is MUCH lighter and with my 2inch lift and 34inch mud tires it does a fine job. I use the same compressor from Kings I bought 10+ years ago, 2 cilinders, quick enough (for the 34inch tires). It blows air like the ARB! A handheld radio it was always enough for me, especially with a charger/holder; even walkie-talkies if you drive within a couple km from the others. I only use a normal tent, swags are ok just take precious space. Rooftop tents have only cons and no pros for me. A portable battery (charging when the car is running) and a good solar blanket is my way. I wouldn't even go over 60 Amps (lithium) for just a fridge. You can charge most of the laptops now with an 150W 12V USB-C charger. Weight matters! I used for the last 15 years a small Iwatani stove with the cheappest gasbottles from Bunnings, I can cook anything and I'm proud to say I'm the chef in any trip we go. My secret is I carry 2 light stoves, both Iwatani (they just have the best gas flow, the 35FW has 15,000BTU/h), the 2nd is a grill. I don't need induction or a coffee machine, Jesus! A simple Airpress can do even espresso with a little attachment. Best latte in Simpson! I have a nice 40L Dometic fridge, light and good size for me. But Kings fridges produce the same cold beer. I can continue but I believe you'll do a much better job with a part 2 going light(er). Not budget .. just smart(er)? My 2c
Winch and diff lockers, are priority over suspension if you are traveling alone.
My 50 years of 4X4ing totally agrees with you.
Video series idea
Get a mechanic on board and every few weeks go over popular 4x4s and run though what to look for and what to walk away from for each car
Great content as always Ronny. I always appreciate your advice.😊
I got caught the other day, I have two sets of tyres M/T and A/T at present have the A/T on the vehicle and dirt road after rain they turned into racing slicks in no time, had recovery boards with me and had to use them to get out of an awkward situation.
Personally I believe underbody protection should be high on the list, cheap insurance compared to the cost of repairing holes in sumps or transmissions.
I work in the forest with heavy machinery, and definitely, bash plates are a MUST have! A lot of things could go very bad if you misjudge your clearance. We´ve got machines weighing tens of tons resting on those plates, but as long as those stumps or rocks aren´t touching the forged engine or tranny parts, it´s still good, and you can even drag the machines along those plates!
However, if you rested the weight of the machine on those parts without warding, you might not even notice that it punched a hole straight through.
@@olenilsen4660 My first 4x4 Bash plates were the first thing I did, then it was the suspension
Com radio - As I’m in unregulated Central America I got two 5W triple band Baofeng walkie talkies that I easily converted to quad band’s.
I use one walkie talkie as a stationary radio in the cabin with an external microphone. A special made low loss cable goes to the roof where I can choose the best antenna for the day out of the five variants I have.
The other radio has the same antenna options to choose from so both radios always have the best antenna considering frequency, environment, and practicality.
A good radio is important and I have done what suits me best.
Ive been on a budget my whole life and I’d say first thing would be bash plates. Nothing worse than sweating blood and tears to get a car and than destroying something on a small rock.. Second thing (as an other comment said) winch for sure, if ur doing a lot of solo exploring or with other cars, cant count the times Ive been with 2 tires under a path with a hudge dropoff, no amount of maxtracks cant help there.. you can get a winch mount witouth a bullbar for majority of cars i think.. From that forward people shuld have already quite a lot of seat time and would know what they need for their particular driving style.. in Europe we do a lot of snow wheeling, a lift is nice to have for not bellying out, and winch! Oh did i mention tires, yes better tires provide more grip sure thats why we get them BUT normal street tires puncture super fast, drive over a small branch unlucely aaand you know the rest.. just my 2cents
No bull bar for me because the animals I have here in Central America are driving cars too and they are easily avoided.
No winch either. Because I rarely see I’d need one. Not yet that is.
Snorkel, probably not.
But I have invested in double diff-lockers. They are by far the best mod I’ve done to the car so far. They made my Gen4 Jimny a mountain goat!
Thanks Ronny, as usual very sound advice. Ive just bought a Delica that I want to convert into a camper but I also want to spend some money on its off road capabilities, i was planning on MD tyres, suspension and a lift kit as the first 3 big things to do. Then (I’m in QLD btw) roof rack to mount the 270 awning followed up with a Glind hot water system and an Aussie made Eva cool fridge, thinking 95lt? A long range tank and diff locks front and rear. Love your channel mate I always get great tidbits of knowledge from you on things i thought i knew about. You’re my 4x4 go-to-guy.👌👍🥇
I've done a little bit of every stage on my n70 Hilux so far. I'm not gonna do any touring or any hardcore 4WDing. I'm planning on getting Diff locks, a lift kit, and bigger tyres next year. A second battery, I'll get to that
If you have lockers, the winch becomes semi redundant. I have both for 25 years in my 80 series diesel 1HZ
Fridge is a wank if you do 10 day trips since you will actually run out of fresh produce before then. Beer is not it. Real men drink straight whiskey, no need to keep cold 😅
Lift 50mm suspension and 50mm body lift, get some Goodrich tyres but larger and some rock sliders, snorkel and cheap awning. Been all over Australia many times in 400,000km of touring and have simplified to perfection. Keep it light instead of overloaded and it off roads much better anyway, especially on sand
Agree with all that but not body lift. Keep it legal
@@intimatespearfisher how is it illegal to body lift? Did you make that up? 🤷♂️
Here’s an extract from VSI 6:
Fitting of body mountings, a body lift kit or mounting points other than those designed by the vehicle manufacturer.
Example not requiring certification:
• Fitting optional body lift kits or mountings that are designed for that make and model of vehicle and meet or exceed manufacturer’s specifications.
Thanks for the advice. It's funny when you say it, it seems obvious but it's well worth hearing because it's easy to get distracted and we all have that friend that says no you need this or that...
I don´t know your friends very well, but look at their cars and judge them by those. Ronny´s an exception - most guys that know what it takes offroad are going to have old, beaten up cars, not shiny new ones that someone paid a fortune to get a second, sacrificial shell on.
What I would get for offroading, is a cheap set of tools, that will always be #1, I buy that for every vehicle I own. Tire plugs, those strips that you can install on the fly, I´d carry some of those, because it´s a tiny package that will solve a lot of problems. Offroading is hard on the tires, especially car tires, which is why I would stay away from those standard ones. I don´t believe Ronny´s ever talked about this, but offroad tires have way better sidewall protection, which is really important offroad. Pinching a hole in the sidewall is way more critical than a hole from a nail anywhere in the tire.
Yep, a second battery and a fridge with a cold booze are a must when in the middle of nowhere you'll be sitting in the middle of a ford with a knocked engine and waiting days for recovery to arrive.
But seriously, maybe a good list, but too overfitted to Australia specifics. This should probably have been explicity mentioned in the beginning a few times😅
In my case my ute is first and foremost a work car that goes into the WA Wheatbelt daily on mostly gravel roads and always during skip hours. For that reason I put the bullbar lights and UHF on first then tyres (on steelies of course) then suspension last as it was a trip to the city job and had to be done around work commitments. I went a non adjustable monotube suspension because I don’t plan on driving for hours flat out on rough roads and after riding dirt bikes for years and often getting suspension clickers wrong and taking a dirt sample I’d rather have something that handles the same way all the time and learning the way to drive it accordingly.
Fantastic assessment and information.
Still managed to go most places in my unlifted stock wheels n tyres, only a mobile 2nd battery, fridge, bullbar, towbar, recovery points n spotlights. All bar fridge n 2nd battery was done pre-purchase
Thanks Ronny! Enjoy these informative type videos :)
Thank for sharing all your knowledge. I’m from Spain (Europe). Here all the modifications are about half priced . I’m finished completely the second part modifications and it cost me about 5000€ ARB 60 liters fridge. OME NITROCHARGER PLUS suspension, General Grabber AT/3 tyres , BRAID reinforced aluminium Wheels, engine, automátic gear box na central differential 8 mm aluminium protecttions, self made drawers, reconvery gear. Stainless steel Rock slidders Auxialiary battery everything, VHF Radio station, roof rack inside … All mounted in my Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 120.
Aus prices are off the roof!
But a 120 prado is just a glorified shopping trolley. Spend your cash on a real 4wd.
@@boc3499😂😂😂 Probably you are one of those people that needs a 70 Series with a huge preparattion just to carry your babys to school
My 120 has crossed Marocco and Argelia (África) and the Alpes mountains about 9.000 km bouht trips un just 4 weeks with 3 people and none problem.
I will enjoy my trolley for many years more. You can keep on crossing the streets of your city 😂😂😂
@@Javier-OverlandESPtypical Spanish
@@boc3499Typical expression when someone can’t answer anything interesting.
I achieved the three year plan after purchase. I brought with bull bar, drivers lights, roof rack and tonneau cover. Within one month, I had to replace the suspension and tyres because the factory provided died (two tyres became couldn’t hold air and two shocks died). Within three years after I had everything except for lockers and a long range tank. Twelve years later and I still haven’t gotten them.
this vid came just in time for me I don't have much to do to my truck itself but the recovery gear and some things needing repairs is the perfect excuse for upgrades! Got it 2 months ago 2010 Raptor :p been giving it lots of love as it seems the last owner didn't but I believe it will last me a while once I finish freshening it up.
Awesome! I love your take on it, been there myself and I might just buy another one like that some day! Sometimes you do it out of necessity, but either way, restoring vehicles can be so very rewarding! All the best of luck to you!
Thanks for this one Ron, I’m a long time 4x4’er for work but not my own rig, this was very helpful, onya cobber 🇦🇺
Another good vid mate.
I watch less than i used too but you have a simple way to get the advise across to your audience. When ever ppl ask me how i know all i do 4x4, i tell em its practice, experience and ronny dahl video's
I have a stock 2002 Hilux, the 3.4L petrol, 225/75R16's, when I upgraded to KO2's I requested slightly larger tyres, they said they couldn't by law, also if you do want bigger and can get them, make sure the spare mount can take a larger tyre.
I run around europe with a 2000 subaru forester, whole thing so far cost me less then six grand.
tires, lift, swag, awning, light, comms, winch, snorkel, cheap cooler then lasts me 4 years already.
might not go as far as a cruiser on 35s but get there 90% of the way and parts are waaaaay cheaper if something breaks.
compressor, tyre pressure gauge, recovery gear.
offroad tyres, snorkel, uhf radio, maps.
winch and winch cradle or steel bull bar if your 4wd didn't come with one.
rock sliders, skidplates or other protection if lacking.
suspension lift if necessary smallest amount possible to clear larger tyres.
larger tyres, full case lockers and diff re-gearing to suit larger tyres if necessary.
rear bar, swing out tyre carrier to suit larger tyres if necessary.
Well put together. Things are a bit different in Oregon, USA
Guess I scored big I recently brought a new 4x4 and had just about everything you spoke about in this video! Only thing is an armrest so I guess I know what’s next now that I saved a few buxs!
Well we go all over the place in the 90 and our build allows us to camp and be fully self sufficient. We didn't add a lot of what is on this list and the all up cost was less than $10k. I did most of the work myself so that helped to save money and if I can do it, snyone can.
Go the 90!
Damn the bots are quick
😂😂😂😂
Hopefully you’ve captured a new market with these videos?
Hope everything is ok with Torben, saw a clip with him out camping without you Ronnie. I’m sure you don’t live in each others pockets, but he only gets annual leave….we like you camping together. 😊
Trawling Marketplace is my go to 🙄
Here is something that will blow your mind... You don't need to let down your tyres.
First 2 things you need is dual battery system/fridge and a UHF
I agreed with everything in year one except the fridge and awning. The fridge should be year 3. If you have a budget, year 1 is like backpacking with a car. Non-perishable food and simple camping gear.
From South Africa my mantra.... if you can't hold it, you can't fix it.
Having said that, I have mounted a vice on my bull bar, which, although not used often, has proven to be immeasurably useful.
Your take on adding a vice ?
❤ ronny I really appreciate your advice 😊😊
You are so welcome
@@Ronny_Dahl when are you coming to Africa mate? More especially Namibia 🇳🇦. You will be a hero to all 4wd enthusiasts in our country
Will you choose a
1 - pickup
2 - wagon
For long trips
Do those arm rests fit on any 4wd or only landcruisers?
1-recovery gear
2- Eski
3- tyres
4-do some trips then see what you need. $10k in the first year is ridiculous
Like these videos 👍🏻🇦🇺
Hey. Can you do a video with the different cost in building a ute and van. Maybe 79 vs 76. I think there a lot more cost with a ute for not that much more space.
thnx!! saved this for future :D hehehe
did you keep the plates off the 79?
The grenadier makes a solid choice, if optioned correctly, many of the items come from the factory. Add some mud terrains, a roof rack with a 52” light bar, and a 270 awning + some cabinets and a fridge slide with fridge in the boot, and you’re ready to rock and roll. $150KAUD
You missed the part about "on a budget."
@@mojrimibnharb4584 I thought $150K WAS the budget…
@@leftcoastoverland8750 Not in one year. Maybe five?
@@mojrimibnharb4584 I saved for 5 years and spent it in one.
@@leftcoastoverland8750
If I had a $150K,AUD Budget…….I’d Spend $50K on an OldPatrol (With Change) and $100K on Fuel.
I have a question, my Tacoma comes with electronic rear diff locker. is an air locker better? do people upgrade from electronic to air? do they make one for the front of the tacoma?
I’m in this exact same predicament now lol
I no shit, saved up money for 2 years and then I did all the mods at once. and because I did that I was able to go all out and get it how I wanted first time go. I know not everyone like that route.
I rate this video as one of your best videos. Of course, all are extremely useful but I put this one up there with the GVM video. I have a 78 and I have a feeling that the brakes are not as stoppable as they should be, particularly when parked on a slope. Just wondering if doing a brake upgrade should be one of these things you should do first with that particular vehicle?
That’s a hard one to answer unless you know how much load is going into the vehicle, if you know you are putting a lot of weight on it then that point should be explored earlier rather than later
A kitted out 4WD does NOT sell for more than a stock one on the used market, just save yourself $20k and get one with everything.
Fair point. Few people do it properly though
Have you seen the second hand market lately??
How about the pre registration GVM upgrade?
Speaking of builds, will we be seeing a summary 76 build episode in the near future?
Hey ronny i have a pajero and you think you're armrest will
Fit in my car? Thanks mate
Does your 4x4 need a mod to go off-road to begin with ?
No but if you wish to upgrade this is the plan I’d follow.
Stock cars can go 95% of places and 25% of these places with great difficulty, risk and compromises
what about diff breathers, catch can and etc for the the engine?
Does this lifeztyle consider home improvements?
All good ideas and thought process, but...... this seems more orientated towards wagon setups , there are some specific costs that are far more for ute setups..
Just get an ineos and put in a bigger fuel tank - for the money of a Toyota and all this you would just about be there or equal and not have such great integrated electrics and a kick ass platform
Exhaust?
Yeah Ronny pump the brakes. “First 4WD” community will get bad info. Weight first then balance suspension kids. Just light off road till it’s sorted
All Terrain 33’s save 5L/100 on sand. Got 34 years of proof. Y62 3.2 tonne 16/100
i wonder what the "4wd Fundation" stage is when it comes to the pricing? 🤪😜
- welding rod to lock your diffs $20
- a stick as an airdown tool free
- Some patagonia geolanders in 35's or 37's
$400
- recovery points (make them)
$10 steel and welding rod
- farm jack $50
- a recovery kinetic roap $150
- literally any 12v compressor $30
- a shovel
Welding diffs and waiting for it to break your gearbox= priceless!
Welding diffs? Wtf. How do you turn with a welded front diff? By ripping cvs apart? 😂
Extreme but it sure is cheap.
Trailer to tow it to private property only $3000
Been cruising my 79 for 7years with 33,s and stock suspension not how I would order the mods
Or buy a2nd hand 4x4 with everything on it !
I think the $ values were well under what you’d really pay for decent goods .
Appreciate the content Ronny but I'm really missing the wheeling. The content is now too heavily focused on "Ronny's advice". Please bring back the wheeling. and advice as a secondary form of content. Cheers
UA-cam shorts happened
@@intimatespearfisher Have never watched his shorts
Matey I've just came back from offroad trip around Balkans in Europe. On wet almost killed myself couple of times on wet surface. RT tyre is the one
Anyone used Ronnys arm rest in a late model hilux?? Does it fit well??
💯 fits, Modified episode with the Hilux rogue shows how it fits 👍
@@Ronny_Dahl Cheers mate, buying now
Remember it's, Things I wish I had known (in the past). What you've written: "things I wish I knew" refers to something you would like to know now or in the future, so it's bit confusing ⚠️🤪 at least it's only a thumbnail to change 😊
On behalf of all Scandinavians still stuck in northern Europe, I apologise for this stray specimen.
Also, you missed a comma between "Remember" and "it´s". Also, there is a logical error in your text, where you imply that people will sometimes have a magical sense to figure out what they would like to know in the future. No wonder you´re confused. Maybe stay off the drugs for a week or two ;)
You shouldn´t have a comma after "it´s"! Maybe before, but the rest of your comment is so messed up it´s hard to figure it out. Also, your opinion is not really relevant, but I understand that you´re confused.
Can't disagree more regarding your placement of a snorkel in the list Ronny. If you have a diesel, then a snorkel is the number one mod. You've obviously never hydroliced an engine during an "easy" river crossing. They are cheap insurance and I won't take anyone away on a trip without one!
Harrop e lockers or arb air lockers? 🤷 what would Ronny go with?
All depends on one's preference. If I recall, Ronny did install a Harrop E-Locker on the front of the Troopy simply for the fact the rear was already an E-Locker. For a vehicle that already has a Factory E-Locker, I say that would be the way to go for the front.
I have no clue about the differences on these things used on cars, but I´ve had quite a bit of heavy machinery all with electric diff. locks, so the principle is not even a question for me. Also, anything that requires air to operate, also requires another unit to work before it can even start. Air leaks are a pain in the butt, and in my climate frost is also a concern about those, because compressing air collects moisture, which in turn can freeze or generate the climate that rust thrives in.
Electrical stuff is easy to measure, ward, and fix. If it breaks in the wild, tough luck either way, but there´s people living with these things every day in forestry, construction, mining etc. Air leaks are really terrible to fix on the go! Heavy machinery still uses electrical actuators, because of how the locks themselves are made. They don´t require a lot of power to engage, just a nudge, and if they´re built right, water and corrosion won´t be a problem either.
@@olenilsen4660compressing air doesn’t create moisture. Releasing air pressure causes dissolved moisture to condense due to partial pressure of water vapour. But that’s a technicality.
Anyway, the little moisture which may form in diffs can also form from simply cooling diffs during a water crossing. Driving heats the diff oil which then drives off the moisture. Not really a reason to avoid air lockers.
I have them front and rear for 25 years in my cruiser, and have never seen a spec of rust inside the diffs on the few occasions I’ve broken crown wheels or pinions 🤷♂️
Tyler Thompson is about to rip his e-lockers out of his patrol, as they've been nothing but trouble. The wiring looms are poor quality apparently.
Or buy an Earthcruiser!
the company that makes them is no more
@@zenmachine50 lol
FFS what happened b4 Lithium came out did the world fall apart. Ive been running a dual battery with aN AGM for years without an issus. And i have hard mounted my Kings Double thumper compressor and it's faster than your $1000 ARB twin compressor.
You could not be more wrong
I have the same setup, but the kings compressor died so I've replaced it with the ARB twin
THE MUSIC IS TOO LOUD
Most of these not applicable to troopy. Just fill your fuel tanks and have a fridge full of food off you go
What happened to modifed videos
How tf is paying $2000 for a winch or $1000 for a compressor.
Would you please finish your question?
Haha giving the v8 crap lol how times change
Can you bring back the longer trips again. These click-bait, tiktok style, videos aren't great.
If you guys are so clever why dont you make your own content! Before you go on these trips you want to see you need to build the vehicle to be able to handle these trips! Dont bother yourself with these haters Ronny! Remember lions dont lose sleep over the opinions of lambs!
Can you do an episode on Spotting?
All these stock purists in the comments 🙄 .
haha "Van Life"
too much talking
The hetro-normative stabs about nagging wives is enough for me to unsubscribe
Watched your last video and said you should ditch the AI images. I now see an AI thumbnail. I clicked on the video just to write this comment, but I'm not watching it.
Sir y didn't said Gear&Ra. how much money ???
Laber money ???
I got 5100 for ~$600,
ARB skids for ~$600,
High output single cylinder air compressor in a toolbox ~$400,
5 takeoff FJ Cruiser steelies ~$350,
Tires ~$1600,
Recovery kit ~$600,
emergency booster pack ~$120,
home made 3rd row seat delete/tire holder ~$100,
Dr KDSS kdss actuation switch and harness ~$250,
AGM conversion ~$400.
EBC Green Stuff Pads/new rotors, Motul DOT 5.1 ~$600
Love my GX460, it's going to be epic in Colorado when I move there in 2 weeks. $5000
ua-cam.com/channels/tJ8dkeTyeqXByRx0Cvfiaw.htmlcommunity?lb=UgkxkheiiPJIEQwgFRXI7x8tRPMdDFNOwX-o