This is some quality content! Love this DIY project. I'm totally new to metalworking, but just ordered parts for a side exhaust inside the rear 'fender' (?) of a Mazdaspeed 6 (on both sides). Already removed the rear mufflers and sounds crazy loud now, so will be adding some 30 deg. corners and then a simple (straight) muffler on both sides. Only hope I can learn to weld in the meanwhile :D
Thanks for watching! In a more high performance application, absolutely. The heat wrap helps keep the exhaust temperature high which helps the exhaust gases maintain velocity through the headers which helps with scavenging/evacuation. On a stock 302 probably not doing much for performance BUT it does help keep from getting burned if you brush against it should you need to have your hands near them while the engines hot. And I think it looks cool haha
actually the opposite, the wrap helps contain the heat within the header tubes, keeping the exhaust gas temps higher (increasing velocity) and engine bay temps cooler.
It depends on the muffler/resonator (or lack thereof) combo. But in theory if both systems were identical, side exit would be louder due to the exhaust hitting the atmosphere sooner and thus losing less velocity than traveling all the way to the rear of the vehicle. Hope that makes sense it’s been a hell of a day haha
@@Enginuity I’m gonna do a muffler delete with a side exit, the only thing on will be the stock cats I just wanna make sure that that’ll be louder than having the exhausted go all the way to the back after muffler delete😅
Thanks for watching. Yea… I do a LOT of things wrong. I’ve done both pushing and pulling and haven’t had much of a difference in finished product. Pushing into the filler helps me a lot on thinner metals or when welding different thicknesses but most of the time I’m rushing around so much I don’t take the time to think about it before I start doing it and pulling is my default. One day… haha
@@Enginuity yea I got you I just started doing tig not too long ago and that’s the biggest thing that helps is going into your filler if it seems like it’s not working it could be machine settings there’s a rule where 1mm of thickness is 1 amp, good video tho
@@Enginuity no problem there’s also rules for different joints and pipe the biggest thing is on stainless steel you need about 1/3 of the amps required for steel and you have to let stainless and aluminum cool down when you make a lot of passes on it or it will bow; they do make chill blocks to basically take the heat away or what I did was buy 2 blocks or 1/4 aluminum to do the same thing, you could get stuff like that at a metal salvage yard or online
There are channels with hundreds of thousands of subscribers that make far worse videos than this. Really good video man
Thanks! I appreciate that. Please share 🤙
The tone of cherry bombs are perfect in my opinion. Sounds great. 🤘
Thanks man!
Some damn good work
Thanks!
Hell yeah dude!!
Thanks man!
This is some quality content! Love this DIY project. I'm totally new to metalworking, but just ordered parts for a side exhaust inside the rear 'fender' (?) of a Mazdaspeed 6 (on both sides). Already removed the rear mufflers and sounds crazy loud now, so will be adding some 30 deg. corners and then a simple (straight) muffler on both sides. Only hope I can learn to weld in the meanwhile :D
Best way to learn is to just do it - that’s how I did it. Good luck!
Awesome channel!!!
Thanks! I’ve since modified this setup - do you think I should make a follow up video?
How do you only have 300 subs?! Keep up the great vids
Thanks! I really appreciate that
It’s Never to loud
🤘
Does wrapping up the headers in what I’m assuming was heat resistant tape or something have any benefits?
Thanks for watching! In a more high performance application, absolutely. The heat wrap helps keep the exhaust temperature high which helps the exhaust gases maintain velocity through the headers which helps with scavenging/evacuation. On a stock 302 probably not doing much for performance BUT it does help keep from getting burned if you brush against it should you need to have your hands near them while the engines hot. And I think it looks cool haha
Would the headers wrapped like that retain more heat in the engine bay?
actually the opposite, the wrap helps contain the heat within the header tubes, keeping the exhaust gas temps higher (increasing velocity) and engine bay temps cooler.
Will a side exit exhaust be louder than coming out the rear?
It depends on the muffler/resonator (or lack thereof) combo. But in theory if both systems were identical, side exit would be louder due to the exhaust hitting the atmosphere sooner and thus losing less velocity than traveling all the way to the rear of the vehicle. Hope that makes sense it’s been a hell of a day haha
@@Enginuity I’m gonna do a muffler delete with a side exit, the only thing on will be the stock cats I just wanna make sure that that’ll be louder than having the exhausted go all the way to the back after muffler delete😅
Oh ok cool. It’ll definitely be louder going out the side
1:10 thanks I didn't know
Awesome! Glad I could help 🤘
On average how long will it take for wrapped headers to stop smoking?
about a day
Where did you get the exaust parts
Summit
What headers you put on? Brand and where?
hedman from summit
What paint did you use?
Rust oleum high temp
Hey you did the tig welding wrong your supposed to go in the direction of the filler so right to left
Thanks for watching. Yea… I do a LOT of things wrong. I’ve done both pushing and pulling and haven’t had much of a difference in finished product. Pushing into the filler helps me a lot on thinner metals or when welding different thicknesses but most of the time I’m rushing around so much I don’t take the time to think about it before I start doing it and pulling is my default. One day… haha
@@Enginuity yea I got you I just started doing tig not too long ago and that’s the biggest thing that helps is going into your filler if it seems like it’s not working it could be machine settings there’s a rule where 1mm of thickness is 1 amp, good video tho
Yea the 1 amp rule definitely helps with a baseline and then tweak from there. Thanks!
@@Enginuity no problem there’s also rules for different joints and pipe the biggest thing is on stainless steel you need about 1/3 of the amps required for steel and you have to let stainless and aluminum cool down when you make a lot of passes on it or it will bow; they do make chill blocks to basically take the heat away or what I did was buy 2 blocks or 1/4 aluminum to do the same thing, you could get stuff like that at a metal salvage yard or online
Good stuff man appreciate it
Hoe come you didn't go over top of the trans crossmember
To clear the front driveshaft
@@Enginuity oh its a 4x right on
Not for long though - transfer cast seized up and I’ve always wanted a muscle truck so…
@@Enginuity muscle truck tickles my fancy lol, I am currently building the one you see in my profile pic, basically just exhaust left
Nice!
makes exhaust video, only shows 3 seconds of idle -_- wtf
Yea… #fail