He Lou great kits,I'm with you I like the bigger kit. I can't wait for the bigger kit to come out in styrene, ever since I saw it on "Picard" and now you have it in a 3D printed version I hope one of the kit manufacturers like "Round 2" or Revell" etc make the kit soon.
Beautiful kit Lou! Perhaps SMDs all wired together in the hard to reach areas. Jerry over at HDA can help you out. Maybe even with the decals. You'll do great. I have faith in you 🙂
I'm going to enjoy watching you build this kit Lou. I have the 1400 scale version of this kit that I will be building soon. I really wish they would offer this kit to everyone. I would defiantly get one.
Hi Lou, last year i came across a short of the departure of the USS ENTERPRISE G , with music on UA-cam. This Enterprise G made the Enterprise E in scale look like the Enterprise-A, it was huge.
You should always make your guide pins .25 % SMALLER then your recesses when a 3D printed kit. I thought everyone knew this metric. Hope you get those windows to light. Personally would have just taken the 2 extra seconds and cut them out of the mesh, but, maybe there were engineering considerations I am unaware of. Can't wait to see how this one turns out Louster!
I’m easily confused, so for clarity’s sake, if you had a recess that was 10 units wide, the pin should be 9.975 units wide? ( that is, multiply the former number by .9975)( edit for arithmetic… as I said, I’m easily confused…)
@@scotiadragoon5974 Oh, nope, whoops. I said .25 % it should have been just a flat 25% smaller. So if I have a recess that's, say, 10 MM in diameter I'll want that pin to be around 9.75 mm. Even then that may be a very tight fit, and sometimes you'll need to go even smaller with the pin. But 25% is a good benchmark, there are no industry standards as of yet so I error on the side of caution. Always test print too, if it's part of a bigger whole, just select and copy the pin and receiving area, cut it out as a separate mesh and print it to make sure your pins and recesses match. Resin is a wily mistress to be sure.
Chip-on-Board or "COB" refers to the mounting of a bare LED chip in direct contact with a substrate (such as silicon carbide or sapphire) to produce LED arrays.
Hello lou, about those pesky windows, well I saw a video years ago where the person was building a white plastic version of Voyager. He masked of inside windows and outside then light block the inside using black spray. The end result allowed light to shine through the unpainted windows with excellent results.
Wow that's cool you were able to get a larger version from them. I'm still not totally sure of the design, but looks like this would still be a really fun kit to build and light regardless.
Nice exercise in scale. Two ships for the price of one -- for us, of course. Glad you are making use of the COB (Chip On Board-- the board being a flexible circuit board, not a brand but a description). Since you were working your magic just, infuriatingly, off screen, it was hard to tell how you were trying to light the blue guy. COBs should work just fine at 9V-- so if you were using that tired old 9V battery, there might not be enough current to trigger the stuff. Certainly not the whole 16 feet at once. Try a single chunk and see. Or two. The dispersion is excellent-- I think you'll see. There's always some fiber fill! Or tracing paper. Or milk jug translucent. Very exciting Lou-- looking forward to next week.
BTW. Bussard's are rotating under cowling. Upper counter clockwise, lower clockwise. Also blue light in nacelles has animated effect of dimming front to back to simulate plasma flow.
😃 Wednesday - "How are you today?" Well I was very well thanks but I'm not getting to see this video until Saturday! I had exactly the same problem with the blue COB LED's I got. The package is now marked "12V ONLY" 😔 To be fair, they are sold as 12V like most LED strips so we are lucky when ones actually work with 9V. The prewired and preresisted LED's that are sold as 9-12V have current limiting resistors that allow use with both voltages but they will be brighter on 12V as the current will be higher for the same resistance. That may cause light blocking issues with a kit which has been moulded in translucent white. It may reward you to do a little bit of learning about simple LED wiring and resistor values - it would enable you to avoid having to use (and pay extra for) parts that have big wires and heat-shrink tubing that are difficult to hide. If you do it yourself you can use thinner wires and put the resistors where they can be hidden. Also you can use one resistor for a string of LED's (3 generally on 9V) which means fewer resistors to hide and less power wasted, enabling batteries to last longer. This must be a huge ship - the 1/1000 version looks about the same size as a 1/350 TOS Enterprise making the actual "G" about 3 times the size of the original! 😲 I think you still need to be careful about showing the images you have as the kit manufacturer will (I hope!) have got permission to publish the artwork. In reality I doubt that anyone will come knocking on your door if you do!
Lou - good luck with the build (not that you need it) and thanks for vloggng it. I so wish Round 2 take the hint and issue the Ent G at this scale! I'm drooling here (anyone got a napkin?)
Hypnotist: "Repeat after me: I will light the windows in both models...I will light the windows in both models...I will light the windows in both models..."
You are so right about 3D printed models I assumed it would be easy right off the printer 🤔I'm currently building my first 3D printed kit a 5ft space battleship YAMATO that i had someone print for me & the amount of grinding and sanding to get the parts to lineup & fit is insane 🤯 luckily I have some experience building garage kits so that helped🤞
You're having WAY too much fun!!! And it's fun to watch as well. Thanks Lou. Now an off subject question, What's the shelf life of the vinyl in your Aztek kits. I've been sitting on a ver.3 of the 1/350 refit and would like to get the masks for the 1/35 chariot. I won't be working on them for a while.
Got a pleasant surprise when I saw you in the background of Norm's interview on Tested yesterday, picking up your Doomsday Machine. It made me do a double take, "Was that Lou?" I went back and watched again. "Yep that has to be Lou, how many giant Doomsday Machine models could there be at Wonderfest?" 😀
Looking forward to more of this build Lou. Too bad you can't do the navigational lights. They're just the thing that gives the ship that "punch" right?
If they are it'll end up on 1/1000 ships of the line. Then maybe if it sells well like the TOS Enterprise, they make it bigger . But definitely not 1/350. 🙂
They mentioned it would most likely be 1/1400 not 1/1000 due to the size when they discussed this at the Wonderfest Q&A. But yes, they would like to do it.
nope, it was the "Volunteer" shirt made up for a convention I went to a few years ago. Sort of like the "staff" shirts. it was 2001 themed hence the Hal screen look. I wonder if that makes me one of the "feeders of VOL" from "the Apple"
Very cool builds Lou, I appreciate you sharing the "knowledge" especially when it comes to working on these 3D printed kits, as I'm just starting to get into these style of builds myself. P.S. Don't you know it's dangerous copying Phil? 🤣 Outstanding work so far and I look forward to the next installment my friend! Take care. 😎🖖
Lou + nice kit I love this design but it looks like they went backwards tho it has the look of the Refit enterprise from the motion picture but I like it a lot
excellent work as usual how tall is the 1:1000 ? It looks small. 9.5in saucer and about 22in long the height looks like about 5in. Anyway keep up the superb modeling. U have showed me alot over the years.
ok why i think this ALL the time see a trek kit and big think is if that got to work and thay can in real life bileld one a FTL ship witch ship be best fore wel the ship it self ? that my big think yes to do the job hek might not be a trek ship in fist place just a think
The only thing I find sad here, is that Bill's reference materials and all those photos, likely will be years if not never to be released to the public. Which means the number of people who can do a truly accurate build, can be counted on one hand. There has been so much "kept to ourselves-ishness" regarding the Titan-prise from everyone involved, including Horner Shipyards... That it seems only a Select few are allowed access to anything legitimately official. Maybe once a commercial, licensed model kit is available that will change.
thats why i took a lot of photos of his build at wonderfest. the closest to "canon" as you'll get. the cgi shots may have some more tweaks tot the surface details, I prefer Bill's color choices
@@aztekdummy same, I saw Bill's model too- it was exquisite and I consider that the official, end-all-be-all of what the ship looks like. Taking copious amounts of photos is absolutely necessary at this point. Actually, despite the understandable secrecy over the Enterprise G leading up to it's reveal, I'm honestly surprised there wasn't an official high detail model kit already licensed and in the wings waiting for the final episode so it could be released. That would have been a great marketing tie in as well.
@@jasonjulian1 would that it t'were that simple. ..license holders are notoriously unconcerned with keeping licensees in the loop. remember how long it took to see baby yoda toys after Mando aired. And given the example of the Stargazer in the second season. (beautiful ship that would have been a great model, but had a combined screen time of about a minute and a half) You can see that R2 would like to know that the ship was going to be around before investing BIG $$$ in tooling up a kit
He Lou great kits,I'm with you I like the bigger kit.
I can't wait for the bigger kit to come out in styrene, ever since I saw it on "Picard" and now you have it in a 3D printed version I hope one of the kit manufacturers like "Round 2" or Revell" etc make the kit soon.
This is going to be a very interesting build to watch. These kits look extremely well engineered.
Yaaaay, back to a starship build! Cool build Lou. 😁👍
Not just a starship build but a twofer!
Agreed, looking great so far.
Off to a great start Lou! Looking forward to your build.
please be kind to my mistakes
@@aztekdummyIf you didn’t want us to see your mistakes you wouldn’t show them to us. But you do, and that’s one reason we respect you so much.
AAAALL the trek model peeps are ABSOLUTELY green with envy
And I need one in my life!
Oh Lou! I was hoping for an Enterprise -G model kit to come out! Maybe I will scratch build one!
Beautiful kit Lou!
Perhaps SMDs all wired together in the hard to reach areas. Jerry over at HDA can help you out. Maybe even with the decals. You'll do great. I have faith in you 🙂
HOLY CRAP THAT IS SO FREAKING COOL !!!!
Well done. Looking forward to next, video.
Fantastic. Thank you for sharing. 😊
Looks Good ,,, maybe some "fiber optics string" for some of the smaller lights ? Can't wait to see your finished design 👍
Have you ever thought about using copper tape rather than wire it might help with narrow channels leave clean ends and paint the rest?
Have you ever tried coating the copper strip with plastadip springs?
I'm going to enjoy watching you build this kit Lou. I have the 1400 scale version of this kit that I will be building soon. I really wish they would offer this kit to everyone. I would defiantly get one.
Hi Lou, last year i came across a short of the departure of the USS ENTERPRISE G , with music on UA-cam. This Enterprise G made the Enterprise E in scale look like the Enterprise-A, it was huge.
Wow, wouldn't a 350 scale to match the TOS and TMP models, but it would be huge!
350 is what Bill's Wonderfest build was based on
You should always make your guide pins .25 % SMALLER then your recesses when a 3D printed kit. I thought everyone knew this metric. Hope you get those windows to light. Personally would have just taken the 2 extra seconds and cut them out of the mesh, but, maybe there were engineering considerations I am unaware of. Can't wait to see how this one turns out Louster!
i wish more folks knew that
I’m easily confused, so for clarity’s sake, if you had a recess that was 10 units wide, the pin should be 9.975 units wide? ( that is, multiply the former number by .9975)( edit for arithmetic… as I said, I’m easily confused…)
@@scotiadragoon5974 Oh, nope, whoops. I said .25 % it should have been just a flat 25% smaller. So if I have a recess that's, say, 10 MM in diameter I'll want that pin to be around 9.75 mm. Even then that may be a very tight fit, and sometimes you'll need to go even smaller with the pin. But 25% is a good benchmark, there are no industry standards as of yet so I error on the side of caution. Always test print too, if it's part of a bigger whole, just select and copy the pin and receiving area, cut it out as a separate mesh and print it to make sure your pins and recesses match. Resin is a wily mistress to be sure.
@@PunkyWily see , I originally read that as 25% smaller. This is why nobody wants me to do their taxes.
@@PunkyWily
Sometimes a tiny amount matters, just not as tiny as I was thinking.😏
Chip-on-Board or "COB" refers to the mounting of a bare LED chip in direct contact with a substrate (such as silicon carbide or sapphire) to produce LED arrays.
the more you know!
Hello lou, about those pesky windows, well I saw a video years ago where the person was building a white plastic version of Voyager.
He masked of inside windows and outside then light block the inside using black spray.
The end result allowed light to shine through the unpainted windows with excellent results.
Those might have been the Voyager window masks that I sell.
Wow that's cool you were able to get a larger version from them. I'm still not totally sure of the design, but looks like this would still be a really fun kit to build and light regardless.
Nice exercise in scale. Two ships for the price of one -- for us, of course. Glad you are making use of the COB (Chip On Board-- the board being a flexible circuit board, not a brand but a description). Since you were working your magic just, infuriatingly, off screen, it was hard to tell how you were trying to light the blue guy. COBs should work just fine at 9V-- so if you were using that tired old 9V battery, there might not be enough current to trigger the stuff. Certainly not the whole 16 feet at once. Try a single chunk and see. Or two. The dispersion is excellent-- I think you'll see. There's always some fiber fill! Or tracing paper. Or milk jug translucent.
Very exciting Lou-- looking forward to next week.
BTW. Bussard's are rotating under cowling. Upper counter clockwise, lower clockwise. Also blue light in nacelles has animated effect of dimming front to back to simulate plasma flow.
I love it. I hope someone releases this kit.
Love the T-shirt. Nice and clean!!
One way to add strobes without affecting the rest of the model would be to put the led or smd inside a aluminum or brass tube.
To boldly go where no Lou has gone before 😊
This blue strip lights remind me so much of Tron
i've got a tron tank that would be perfect for this
😃 Wednesday - "How are you today?" Well I was very well thanks but I'm not getting to see this video until Saturday! I had exactly the same problem with the blue COB LED's I got. The package is now marked "12V ONLY" 😔 To be fair, they are sold as 12V like most LED strips so we are lucky when ones actually work with 9V. The prewired and preresisted LED's that are sold as 9-12V have current limiting resistors that allow use with both voltages but they will be brighter on 12V as the current will be higher for the same resistance. That may cause light blocking issues with a kit which has been moulded in translucent white. It may reward you to do a little bit of learning about simple LED wiring and resistor values - it would enable you to avoid having to use (and pay extra for) parts that have big wires and heat-shrink tubing that are difficult to hide. If you do it yourself you can use thinner wires and put the resistors where they can be hidden. Also you can use one resistor for a string of LED's (3 generally on 9V) which means fewer resistors to hide and less power wasted, enabling batteries to last longer. This must be a huge ship - the 1/1000 version looks about the same size as a 1/350 TOS Enterprise making the actual "G" about 3 times the size of the original! 😲 I think you still need to be careful about showing the images you have as the kit manufacturer will (I hope!) have got permission to publish the artwork. In reality I doubt that anyone will come knocking on your door if you do!
Lou - good luck with the build (not that you need it) and thanks for vloggng it. I so wish Round 2 take the hint and issue the Ent G at this scale! I'm drooling here (anyone got a napkin?)
Hypnotist: "Repeat after me: I will light the windows in both models...I will light the windows in both models...I will light the windows in both models..."
“G” whizz!
You are so right about 3D printed models I assumed it would be easy right off the printer 🤔I'm currently building my first 3D printed kit a 5ft space battleship YAMATO that i had someone print for me & the amount of grinding and sanding to get the parts to lineup & fit is insane 🤯 luckily I have some experience building garage kits so that helped🤞
I love both the Enterprise-G & Titan-A. They are so cool.
You're having WAY too much fun!!! And it's fun to watch as well. Thanks Lou. Now an off subject question, What's the shelf life of the vinyl in your Aztek kits. I've been sitting on a ver.3 of the 1/350 refit and would like to get the masks for the 1/35 chariot. I won't be working on them for a while.
As long as you keep them away from wild temperature swings ( don't put them in the attic or anything) you are good for a few years.
Got a pleasant surprise when I saw you in the background of Norm's interview on Tested yesterday, picking up your Doomsday Machine. It made me do a double take, "Was that Lou?" I went back and watched again. "Yep that has to be Lou, how many giant Doomsday Machine models could there be at Wonderfest?" 😀
which video was it?
@aztekdummy How to give scale models a gloss finish.
Thanks
I clicked on the video because it's a new build by The Great Lou 😅😮
That looks like a really fun build. COB = Circuit on Board.
Actually COB = Chip On Board. Not a trade name but a package type.
@@spacedock873 oh, I’m not sure why I thought it was circuit on board. I stand corrected.
Looking forward to more of this build Lou. Too bad you can't do the navigational lights. They're just the thing that gives the ship that "punch" right?
I believe Round 2 are working on this model at the moment, what size I'm not sure but don't quote me on this it just might be 1/350 scale.
They are not. A 1/350 would also measure 63” long.
If they are it'll end up on 1/1000 ships of the line. Then maybe if it sells well like the TOS Enterprise, they make it bigger . But definitely not 1/350. 🙂
If they do make one we won't see it probably for another 5 to 10 years 😆
They mentioned it would most likely be 1/1400 not 1/1000 due to the size when they discussed this at the Wonderfest Q&A. But yes, they would like to do it.
@@TychoYard Well I did say I was not sure, 1000 or 1400 scale is ok with me just bring it out.🤷♂
Perfection
As this is 1/1000 could you not use the refit photo etch for the saucer window cutting guide?
it really is the material. it's brittle and can shatter. it's not soft and carve-able like styrene.
So, Lou, Inquiring minds want to know if the pink VOL shirt is a nod to the Barbie movie....
nope, it was the "Volunteer" shirt made up for a convention I went to a few years ago. Sort of like the "staff" shirts. it was 2001 themed hence the Hal screen look. I wonder if that makes me one of the "feeders of VOL" from "the Apple"
Sharing
Very cool builds Lou,
I appreciate you sharing the "knowledge" especially when it comes to working on these 3D printed kits, as I'm just starting to get into these style of builds myself.
P.S. Don't you know it's dangerous copying Phil? 🤣
Outstanding work so far and I look forward to the next installment my friend!
Take care. 😎🖖
Lou + nice kit I love this design but it looks like they went backwards tho it has the look of the Refit enterprise from the motion picture but I like it a lot
I have to say I like this direction better than the video game knife blades they've been making lately
@@aztekdummy Personally I feel there's a middle ground between "feeling like" a TMP ship and literally putting parts from a TMP ship there.
@@DangerousDacI always liked the Eclipse Class from DJ Curtis myself.
@@DangerousDac tires on cars have looked the same for decades. If it ain't broke...
@@aztekdummy”and if my grandmother had wheels she’d be a wagon, lol
excellent work as usual how tall is the 1:1000 ? It looks small. 9.5in saucer and about 22in long the height looks like about 5in.
Anyway keep up the superb modeling. U have showed me alot over the years.
About 4.5 tall. Saucer is 10 across
@@aztekdummy thanks for the info
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!!!
SHOW US !!!!!!!
Lou , Could You Use Your "Sonic Saber" To Carve Channels For The Lighting In Ths Saucer??
i will for the nacelles, but the rim of the saucer is just too thick
@@aztekdummy what about using the long drills I sent you?
@@jimbrust486 i'm concerned about the brittleness of the resin. it's not like carving styrene
Need a 350 scale
How much did either one cost ??
Probably as much as R2 1/350 TOS Enterprise.
The smaller one (15.7inches) is $160!
@@doctordetroit1217
Ouch! 🤯
ok why i think this ALL the time see a trek kit and big think is if that got to work and thay can in real life bileld one a FTL ship witch ship be best fore wel the ship it self ? that my big think yes to do the job hek might not be a trek ship in fist place just a think
The only thing I find sad here, is that Bill's reference materials and all those photos, likely will be years if not never to be released to the public.
Which means the number of people who can do a truly accurate build, can be counted on one hand.
There has been so much "kept to ourselves-ishness" regarding the Titan-prise from everyone involved, including Horner Shipyards... That it seems only a Select few are allowed access to anything legitimately official.
Maybe once a commercial, licensed model kit is available that will change.
thats why i took a lot of photos of his build at wonderfest. the closest to "canon" as you'll get. the cgi shots may have some more tweaks tot the surface details, I prefer Bill's color choices
@@aztekdummy same, I saw Bill's model too- it was exquisite and I consider that the official, end-all-be-all of what the ship looks like.
Taking copious amounts of photos is absolutely necessary at this point.
Actually, despite the understandable secrecy over the Enterprise G leading up to it's reveal, I'm honestly surprised there wasn't an official high detail model kit already licensed and in the wings waiting for the final episode so it could be released.
That would have been a great marketing tie in as well.
@@jasonjulian1 would that it t'were that simple. ..license holders are notoriously unconcerned with keeping licensees in the loop.
remember how long it took to see baby yoda toys after Mando aired. And given the example of the Stargazer in the second season. (beautiful ship that would have been a great model, but had a combined screen time of about a minute and a half) You can see that R2 would like to know that the ship was going to be around before investing BIG $$$ in tooling up a kit
@@aztekdummy absolutely makes sense. Frustrating for the average model builder though.
But it is what it is as they say.
How much would this kit cost?
The 1400 runs about 160
@@aztekdummy X 2= $320.00. O.U.C.H.
Where can I get it from
Look up Horner shipyards