TIMESTAMPS 0:00 - Intro 0:30 - Mod Disclaimer 1:05 - 240sx Breakdown 2:13 - Setup Screen Breakdown/Disclaimer 2:48 - Tires 4:28 - Alignment 6:27 - Suspension App Breakdown 7:27 - Camber/Toe curve check 8:58 - Rear Camber Tips 9:47 - Spring rate effects 9:58 - Ride Height Changes 10:16 - Quick Pit button benifits/tips 10:57 - spring rate effects - part 2ish 11:12 - Rear anti-rollbar / Sway bar 12:11 - Front Spring Rate 12:45 - Spring Rate/Ride Height Alignment effect reminder 13:30 - My Front Toe Preferance 13:39 - Front Sway Bar/Anti Roll Bar effects 14:10 - Front Ride Height Effects 15:00 - Recap Begins, Starts with Toe Breakdown 15:53 - Spring Rate Breakdown 16:26 - Ride height Recap 16:55 - Anti-Rollbar/Sway Bar Recap 17:33 - Front Spring rate Breakdown/recap 18:33 - Camber Recap 19:28 - Front Alignment Recap 21:00 - My AC server Video came out a little sloppier/unorganized than I had in mind, hopefully there's some useful information y'all can pull from this video though!
Toe-out in compression on the Nissan multilinks is normal. The tie rod can move around a bit which dramatically affects the shape of the curve, but most of the time, they gain toe-out on compression, and ideally gain some toe-in on decompression, then go back to toe-out gain if you go far enough into decompression. S13 and S14 are different in that regard, S14 seems to have typically a hair (Something like -0.02deg per 50mm) more toe-out gain, but more dramatic toe-in gain on decompression, while some S13 I've mapped out only have a very initial toe-in gain, then straight to toe-out, while being similar in compression. The difference is probably due to balljoint position error and actual intentional design, because the S14 has more toe-in gain on lateral forces, due to more compliant rear arm bushings.
I like how you explain the topic I will try to play around with my setups and see what happens I really sucj at setting up my cars and that's a huge problem for me
Could be driver error, lack of power, poor throttle control. Its really a general setup/driver question rather than a particular set. You can soften the rear end for more grip, but youll have to be smoother with your driving inputs as the car will be more willing to snap. Lower the tire pressure in the rear for some more bite (depending on tires). The more grip you put into the car, the more likely it will grip up under shallow angle if it doesnt have enough power.
Some car pack are more realistic than other, for exemple with tendo buddies cars, you’ll easily hold and correct a drift with ease, but with wdts it’s a more realistic driving sensation so you’ll have to be way more gentle and careful on the wheel and throttle if you want to hold your drift ;)
Please help ! Im struggling to make a certain comp car pack driving good. i cant seem to fix the understeer while drifting. car going very very straight and does not drift very large. i played a lot with the grip settings, what suspension settings should i edit to make the car feel better^
Could you possibly make a table to show us how to tune such as Chris Haye did? Example: www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/9urraq/awesome_setup_guidetroubleshooter_from_chris_haye/
great video m8, could you please tell me what settings should i change to make cars less snappier during transitions? i have a g29 and i'm able to drift cars with slower transitions like the tando buddies but as soon as i get cars that have snappier transitions like the WDT's for instance i always over rotate because the g29 can't self countersteer fast enough to match snappier transitions.
And with logitech wheels you have to help the wheel in transitions, as in give it a little push. I also used to use 720 instead of 900 rotation when I had a g27
TIMESTAMPS
0:00 - Intro
0:30 - Mod Disclaimer
1:05 - 240sx Breakdown
2:13 - Setup Screen Breakdown/Disclaimer
2:48 - Tires
4:28 - Alignment
6:27 - Suspension App Breakdown
7:27 - Camber/Toe curve check
8:58 - Rear Camber Tips
9:47 - Spring rate effects
9:58 - Ride Height Changes
10:16 - Quick Pit button benifits/tips
10:57 - spring rate effects - part 2ish
11:12 - Rear anti-rollbar / Sway bar
12:11 - Front Spring Rate
12:45 - Spring Rate/Ride Height Alignment effect reminder
13:30 - My Front Toe Preferance
13:39 - Front Sway Bar/Anti Roll Bar effects
14:10 - Front Ride Height Effects
15:00 - Recap Begins, Starts with Toe Breakdown
15:53 - Spring Rate Breakdown
16:26 - Ride height Recap
16:55 - Anti-Rollbar/Sway Bar Recap
17:33 - Front Spring rate Breakdown/recap
18:33 - Camber Recap
19:28 - Front Alignment Recap
21:00 - My AC server
Video came out a little sloppier/unorganized than I had in mind, hopefully there's some useful information y'all can pull from this video though!
Toe-out in compression on the Nissan multilinks is normal. The tie rod can move around a bit which dramatically affects the shape of the curve, but most of the time, they gain toe-out on compression, and ideally gain some toe-in on decompression, then go back to toe-out gain if you go far enough into decompression.
S13 and S14 are different in that regard, S14 seems to have typically a hair (Something like -0.02deg per 50mm) more toe-out gain, but more dramatic toe-in gain on decompression, while some S13 I've mapped out only have a very initial toe-in gain, then straight to toe-out, while being similar in compression. The difference is probably due to balljoint position error and actual intentional design, because the S14 has more toe-in gain on lateral forces, due to more compliant rear arm bushings.
Thanks for the facts man! Great info
You know what you talking about. Thanks for the video!
Make a setup tune for Silvia ps13!
Really thanks man!!!!!!
I like the way you described Ackerman. I have a hard time explaining it lol
Hey Shadow Hunter great driving bro 🏎 🙌 😁
Thanks 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Keep the grind up man
Thanks buddy! Camaro sounds great!
@@SHADOWxlxHUNTER aye, thank u kindly.
I like how you explain the topic I will try to play around with my setups and see what happens I really sucj at setting up my cars and that's a huge problem for me
What is it that makes the car “catch” and “hold” the drift? Some cars spin out or dwindle, but others like these almost drift themselves
Could be driver error, lack of power, poor throttle control.
Its really a general setup/driver question rather than a particular set. You can soften the rear end for more grip, but youll have to be smoother with your driving inputs as the car will be more willing to snap. Lower the tire pressure in the rear for some more bite (depending on tires). The more grip you put into the car, the more likely it will grip up under shallow angle if it doesnt have enough power.
Some car pack are more realistic than other, for exemple with tendo buddies cars, you’ll easily hold and correct a drift with ease, but with wdts it’s a more realistic driving sensation so you’ll have to be way more gentle and careful on the wheel and throttle if you want to hold your drift ;)
Great video! 👍🏼
Is it a mod you use for the info on tuning in the menu whenever you got the mouse on tire pressure ?
yo whats the map?
Great video and channel! Sub and like.
how do i make the car more loose so its not so snappy but also not too loose to where it spins?
what is that car mod
Why does my Assetto Corsa doesnt have that Final Gear Ratio Option?
What affects side bite and forward bite? I like forward bite for actual tracks but when driving on a togue I need more side bite
toe in the rear
Please help ! Im struggling to make a certain comp car pack driving good. i cant seem to fix the understeer while drifting. car going very very straight and does not drift very large. i played a lot with the grip settings, what suspension settings should i edit to make the car feel better^
What track is that ?
Could you possibly make a table to show us how to tune such as Chris Haye did? Example: www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/9urraq/awesome_setup_guidetroubleshooter_from_chris_haye/
Is there any way to adjust caster in assetto corsa?
Have to change the suspension geometry for that.
great video m8, could you please tell me what settings should i change to make cars less snappier during transitions? i have a g29 and i'm able to drift cars with slower transitions like the tando buddies but as soon as i get cars that have snappier transitions like the WDT's for instance i always over rotate because the g29 can't self countersteer fast enough to match snappier transitions.
Try less front toe. Also the least value in diff preload
And with logitech wheels you have to help the wheel in transitions, as in give it a little push. I also used to use 720 instead of 900 rotation when I had a g27
@@Ali.Yousif what do u mean by less? should i run more negative front toe or set it closer to 0 ?
@@mirek2845 closer to 0
@@Ali.Yousif ty m8 gonna try
wots ur roller settings
Im on a wheel
Hay! Cut out your “uhh’s” ❤️❤️ but actually tho. Proper vid. Did think this is a worth it video to share
Thanks buddy! Hopefully we can slide soon!
@@SHADOWxlxHUNTER idk, they are not that noticable and makes it feel natural
like dan tdm...? it doesnt sound great and its a lot of effort.
can u give me link of this car?
lol i want this too
I'm playing on ps4. Looking for help for drift tunes
hey how can get those settings avaible?
The mod needs to have them in the setup file to be adjustable in game
dude needs a Pop filter