@13:40 One of the few times I’m not jealous for not having a lift. With the truck on the ground I’d just use a jack to push the bushing into place instead of bending over upside down with a BFH. Reminds me of when my rear differential cover wouldn’t come off, then popped off no problem by jacking it. Downside is going to be less clearance for torquing it to 400ft-lbs...is it 400? I thought I read that OEM was around 375ish. Great Vid! It’s actually AWESOME that you included the PITA parts and explained what to expect with the balljoint. It gives everyone a better understanding of what to expect and lessens the frustration that comes with hang-ups. Much better than watching a how to video of someone Doing automotive work and glossing over the parts that can be frustrating only to wonder, “Am I this ****** inept, the guy in the vid had no problem, lol.
Torque spec per Ford on the 2005-2016 track bar (my book ends at 2016 since that’s the year I got it) puts the track bar bolt at the frame side (driver side) at 406 lb ft.
Or put a socket on the botom of the ball joint with a breaker bar and pull the track bar and breaker bar together. My came loose first time like that. That bushing was a PITA big time.
Can’t use a standard ball joint press. You need a large 9” C clamp to do the track ball joint. If you use a standard C clamp you’ll need a grinder to chop off 1”-2” of the threads of the ball joint to use it.
I have a question that's left me scratching my head: I've been trying to get my 06 f250 aligned for steering drift to the left. Like, hard left. The toe is about perfect. Most of the front suspension is sturdy, except for some play in my tie rod from the pitman arm. But I don't think that's the issue. The alignment shop uses Hunter, a known brand, and it keeps showing that my caster on my driver side is off. Somehow the driver side tire is not far enough forward in comparison to my passenger side. I can only think of one possible reason why: it has an aftermarket lift. The front suspension is lifted with a 4-link kit instead of a usual radius arm, and the bottom link on the drivers side actually looks adjustable, the same way the track bar is in this video? Would it be possible to adjust that to fix my issue? I'm concerned that adjusting the link arm wont work and that there's a more obvious underlying issue. Your thoughts and anyone elses are much appreciated
Any pointers on preventing jam nuts from loosening? I installed my BD Diesel adjustable track bar on my 2009 F250 almost a month ago and jam nuts loosen up almost once per week. I even applied Blue Loctite a few weeks ago and jam nuts still loosened up.
Do I have to get the truck aligned after installing this track bar? My truck is currently in alignment but the steering is loose. Already changed the ball joint.
So you use the ball joint for the track bar? I have seen this is a culprit even with a heavy-duty track bar addition because MOOG and other aftermarket just don't cut it anymore what did you use noticed you said the ball joint was worn out?
Where can I order this track bar.I'm dealing with death wobble on my truck I already replace a lot of suspension parts in the problem is not fixed yet. Any ideas?
I have a 2015 SD 4wd 249K miles with (mild) death wobble that seems more vertical than side to side when it happens. Stock height, stock tires (275/65/20) The 2 mechanics who have looked at it feel the wheel bearings and ball joints are good. I've changed the steering stabilizer and front shocks and driver's side tie rod end. I corrected mild-toe-in on the front tires, but the truck tracks straight ahead with almost no effort holding it there. There is no visible steering slack anywhere between the Pitman arm and the tie rods. My next steps are 4 wheel alignment and install a heavier duty track bar (the ball joint looks good on the track bar) and add a dual steering stabilizer. Would your adjustable track bar, as designed, offer significantly more stability over stock ? I realize no guarantees, but speaking generally would it be a good logical next step? Thanks in advance.
Personally, I do really like this track bar. Nice to have the ability to take up “slack” as you go. When looking at death wobble, remember not to forget tires. Tires can be one of the main culprits to death wobble.
Any advice, just had a shop screw this up and put the center section in before placing the poly piece. Now they’ve tried for two days and have returned the BD bar to me uninstalled because they can’t get the bushing into the eyelet. Is it still possible or am I hosed?
I have a question. Our fleet has several 2015 and newer F-450's. Is the passenger side track bar joint supposed to move? To clarify, I mean the bar on the joint moving up and down and or has side to side play when the joint move side to side when you push on the side of the truck?
Tie rods are the connection at the knuckles with a bar that run between them, then the drag link is the bar that runs to the tie rod bar that turns the vehicle.
what should the length be with a 6in. lift, if it changes, and instead of a round hole my 2006 has an oval with the stock track bar all the way to the drivers side should i install the new one all the way to the drivers side as well?
I am sure that is the track bar that came with your lift. The BD bar will work with up to an 8” lift, but as far as the adjusted length you will have to measure that based on your current bar/setup.
Use a big pry bar between the track bar mount and the bushing. A little movement while prying is ok, if its clicking or popping the bushing is shot, when in doubt replace it , also if rubber is dry rotted replace it. they are around 15 bucks, you will need a shop press or ball joint press to r&r
The one thing... the one the most difficult thing that requires a specific tool and you failed to include it in your "how to" removal ??? Seriously only reason I'm here was to get a look at this tool and watch y'all show us how well it works.. 🤷🤦
Stupid...... why put an adjustable track bar on your truck if you're not lifting it. They were using the stock ball joint and rubber bushing set up like stock. Except for the adjustment feature of the new track bar which they set to the stock length of the stock track bar length. So they didn't use the adjustable feature in the new track bar.
BFH...Took me a minute, but finally got it. I like it
😅
Me too. Thought it was special name then I thought about it. Lolol
Ha me too
@13:40 One of the few times I’m not jealous for not having a lift.
With the truck on the ground I’d just use a jack to push the bushing into place instead of bending over upside down with a BFH. Reminds me of when my rear differential cover wouldn’t come off, then popped off no problem by jacking it.
Downside is going to be less clearance for torquing it to 400ft-lbs...is it 400? I thought I read that OEM was around 375ish.
Great Vid! It’s actually AWESOME that you included the PITA parts and explained what to expect with the balljoint. It gives everyone a better understanding of what to expect and lessens the frustration that comes with hang-ups. Much better than watching a how to video of someone Doing automotive work and glossing over the parts that can be frustrating only to wonder, “Am I this ****** inept, the guy in the vid had no problem, lol.
Torque spec per Ford on the 2005-2016 track bar (my book ends at 2016 since that’s the year I got it) puts the track bar bolt at the frame side (driver side) at 406 lb ft.
Zaps the fuck out of it with an impact "think proper torque for that was 67 foot pounds" hahaha
Good Stuff, Great Tips👍🏿😀 2016 F250 XLT 6.2L Gas Flex Fuel 4W 4D (Stock)
Glad it was helpful!
Or put a socket on the botom of the ball joint with a breaker bar and pull the track bar and breaker bar together. My came loose first time like that. That bushing was a PITA big time.
Can’t use a standard ball joint press. You need a large 9” C clamp to do the track ball joint.
If you use a standard C clamp you’ll need a grinder to chop off 1”-2” of the threads of the ball joint to use it.
If doing this on the ground, a bottle jack and a 2x4 will press the frame side right in place. No hammer needed
Could you please suggest what brand track bar ball joint I should buy that's high quality. Thank you for your time and the video.
I have a question that's left me scratching my head: I've been trying to get my 06 f250 aligned for steering drift to the left. Like, hard left. The toe is about perfect. Most of the front suspension is sturdy, except for some play in my tie rod from the pitman arm. But I don't think that's the issue. The alignment shop uses Hunter, a known brand, and it keeps showing that my caster on my driver side is off. Somehow the driver side tire is not far enough forward in comparison to my passenger side. I can only think of one possible reason why: it has an aftermarket lift. The front suspension is lifted with a 4-link kit instead of a usual radius arm, and the bottom link on the drivers side actually looks adjustable, the same way the track bar is in this video? Would it be possible to adjust that to fix my issue? I'm concerned that adjusting the link arm wont work and that there's a more obvious underlying issue.
Your thoughts and anyone elses are much appreciated
Any pointers on preventing jam nuts from loosening? I installed my BD Diesel adjustable track bar on my 2009 F250 almost a month ago and jam nuts loosen up almost once per week. I even applied Blue Loctite a few weeks ago and jam nuts still loosened up.
We haven’t had that issue, we used good sized adjustable wrenches for leverage and so far so good.
Ford should have used a bracket with a polyurethane bushing on the axle side instead of a cheap hard to remove ball joint
Do I have to get the truck aligned after installing this track bar? My truck is currently in alignment but the steering is loose. Already changed the ball joint.
Yes
So you use the ball joint for the track bar? I have seen this is a culprit even with a heavy-duty track bar addition because MOOG and other aftermarket just don't cut it anymore what did you use noticed you said the ball joint was worn out?
Tracking. Once the truck was “wandering” usually was found to have a worn track bar.
Where can I order this track bar.I'm dealing with death wobble on my truck I already replace a lot of suspension parts in the problem is not fixed yet.
Any ideas?
Taking a look at your castor bushings, may need to order offset, check out Powerstrokehelp’s channel to see what I’m twlking about.
I have a 2015 SD 4wd 249K miles with (mild) death wobble that seems more vertical than side to side when it happens. Stock height, stock tires (275/65/20) The 2 mechanics who have looked at it feel the wheel bearings and ball joints are good. I've changed the steering stabilizer and front shocks and driver's side tie rod end. I corrected mild-toe-in on the front tires, but the truck tracks straight ahead with almost no effort holding it there. There is no visible steering slack anywhere between the Pitman arm and the tie rods. My next steps are 4 wheel alignment and install a heavier duty track bar (the ball joint looks good on the track bar) and add a dual steering stabilizer. Would your adjustable track bar, as designed, offer significantly more stability over stock ? I realize no guarantees, but speaking generally would it be a good logical next step? Thanks in advance.
Personally, I do really like this track bar. Nice to have the ability to take up “slack” as you go. When looking at death wobble, remember not to forget tires. Tires can be one of the main culprits to death wobble.
Any advice, just had a shop screw this up and put the center section in before placing the poly piece. Now they’ve tried for two days and have returned the BD bar to me uninstalled because they can’t get the bushing into the eyelet. Is it still possible or am I hosed?
It’s a super tight fit on the bushing. I think you are ok if the runout of the eyelet is still good. Find a new shop!
I have a question. Our fleet has several 2015 and newer F-450's. Is the passenger side track bar joint supposed to move? To clarify, I mean the bar on the joint moving up and down and or has side to side play when the joint move side to side when you push on the side of the truck?
It should not have play.
@@thoroughbreddiesel
Ok, thank you!
Is the track bar supposed to be straight??
I have a 05 Excursion with a BDS 6 inch lift. Will this work?
It works on truck lifts up to 6 inches. I would check with your lift company before installing.
What is the big bar that runs and connects both wheels?
Tie rods are the connection at the knuckles with a bar that run between them, then the drag link is the bar that runs to the tie rod bar that turns the vehicle.
what should the length be with a 6in. lift, if it changes, and instead of a round hole my 2006 has an oval with the stock track bar all the way to the drivers side should i install the new one all the way to the drivers side as well?
I am sure that is the track bar that came with your lift. The BD bar will work with up to an 8” lift, but as far as the adjusted length you will have to measure that based on your current bar/setup.
Logan Gray should've use the pinkie finger to feel the hole is line up. Spend a few seconds trying to pin your bolt.
the sleeve on the bushing looks bent. That is why you had issues getting the bolt through LOL.
Those bushings can be a bastard.
How to you check the track bar bushing?
Have someone jiggle the steering wheel back and forth while you look at it or put your hand on it and feel movement.
Use a big pry bar between the track bar mount and the bushing. A little movement while prying is ok, if its clicking or popping the bushing is shot, when in doubt replace it , also if rubber is dry rotted replace it. they are around 15 bucks, you will need a shop press or ball joint press to r&r
Is my track bar supposed to be straight?
The stock one? They are curved on the ends. This upgraded bar is curved on the ends too.
Who the fuck put a metric nut on the imperial bolt? And 36.85"? What kind of tape measure is he using?
You no wan this problem bay Doge.I have Ford for 10 years I change to Doge I don’t have any more problem
This track bar is pretty pricey. Over 300.
that's any good track bar.
The one thing... the one the most difficult thing that requires a specific tool and you failed to include it in your "how to" removal ???
Seriously only reason I'm here was to get a look at this tool and watch y'all show us how well it works..
🤷🤦
We don't use the tool. We beat it with a hammer. Save the $100.
Stupid......
why put an adjustable track bar on your truck if you're not lifting it.
They were using the stock ball joint and rubber bushing set up like stock.
Except for the adjustment feature of the new track bar which they set to the stock length of the stock track bar length.
So they didn't use the adjustable feature in the new track bar.
Why ? Because this is a much larger in diameter and stiffer track bar.
It’s an upgrade even if the truck isn’t lifted. And it’s future proofed if you do get your truck lifted down the road.