Dan is so knowledgeable when it come to working on the cars and I love the way all you blokes get so excited about you're gear when you fix or mod something. Keep it up boys.
Great video as usual, love the fact that everything is so raw and isn’t sugar coated as some channels do. As a mechanic myself when every I do a suspension lift on a customers vehicle, I always take before and after measurements. Just as a guide to see how much it’s actually lifted the vehicle, then again after road testing and settled in. It would of been interesting to see how much the old coils had sagged ! Keen on seeing future work on the gq 👌
Hey guys, great vid. If you want an arm that will correct alignment, is light and gets the job done. You can use SuperPro's TRC1015. It has built in caster correction. 4 Degrees for a 50mm lift and 2.5 Degrees for a 75mm lift. I would link you to our website but UA-cam sometimes doesn't like that.
Hi guys, thanks for letting us know, will keep those in mind for the future. I’m trying to keep the patrol as a budget conscious build, hence going with the castor correction bushes supplied in the kit. Had the patrol out this weekend and suspension performed very well. Cheers Dan
30:25 Keep your standard panhard for 2" lift, bring steering back to centre with adjustable drag link. That way you don't need 2 adjustable panhards at 4 times the cost. I extended my sway bar links with a piece of steel rod for $5 - cut your link in half, drill a hole in each end of steel rod, insert cut link and run a good weld. Also extend the rear brake bias bracket, dead simple to do.
Literally just finished doing this to mine this morning. Exactly the same kit. I put all new bushes throughout front and back. With some Thunderer MT 285/75R16. Swivel hub rebuild kit with wheel bearings and used GU hub nuts. And fitted a pertronix ignition kit.
You should consider installing an extension bracket to the load sensing valve attached to the rear diff in order to get the brakes right. This was neglected on my Y61 when lifted by a previous owner. Correcting that made a huge difference on braking for me.
Ifs has rack and pinion steering with tie rods, solid axle has drag link in front of diff and relay rod behind. The drag link on a solid axle RH drive vehicle is connected to the LH steer wheel from the pitman arm at the steering box and the relay rod ‘relays’ the movement to the RH steer wheel.
Tie rod. If you were wrong once it was probably a mistake 👍 I went against convention and fitted GU sway bars...they are bigger. Still goes everywhere I want. (Also fitted Superior Superflex front arms)
Got a gq and did a 2inch lift without doing the bushes and rods... watched this video and now waiting for the parts to arrive so she doesn’t handle like a shopping trolley.. cheers heaps 😂
Should've put rubber bushes in. I changed mine from poly bushes to PSR rubber and there's way less vibration and shock coming through into the car. Rubber supposedly last longer too.
Old mate bodgey brother with the sledge hammer needs to wear a blue apron with white stripes when He whacks the tie rod end arm to distortion. They make tools to easily and properly remove tie rods without leaving hammer witness marks all over your steering components.
@@keyboardplayerakas Use a purpose designed tie rod puller. I've come across many tie rods or pitman arms that are stuck in their taper or splines like there is no tomorrow, only a threaded puller will get them out. I would have supported that loose end of the drag link too rather than leave it hanging sideways on the tie rod casting.
@@keyboardplayerakas My other pet hate is those "mechanics" who hammer the free wheeling hub flange to distortion to get the cone washers out. Stick a fine bladed screwdriver in the cone washer split & twist them out.
@@dustyfarmer we do tierods on trucks most days at work and a copper hammer works fine for 99% of them. But like you say the 1% you need a puller to get them off. And yea would have just taken the tierod off not let it swing
@@keyboardplayerakas I work on a lot of Toyota Landcruisers, I go straight for the Toyota service tools / threaded puller every time, I only use a hammer & spreader fork if I'm replacing the tie rod.
In South Africa we call it a drag link, the tie rod connects the drag link to the pitman arm, or on some instances the hubs to the drag link/pitman/idler arm. Me finks it's dependent on where in the world you are.
tie rod! & front sway bars actually make them lift front wheels easier. better off with just the rear, especially considering fronts were a factory option 🤙🏼
Very sensible approach! Gees, you guys make the more "respected authorities" on 4x4 mods look like salesmen. Can you find out if any of the people you guys deal with for mechanical work are familiar with the 4JX1? I'm in the SE burbs.
Got the same shocks in my GU ute and had the same problem with the exhaust being too close. They just added a couple of spacers on the rear couple of exhaust hanger brackets to move the exhaust down a little and away from the shocks. Been in for around 6,000k's now with no dramas. Might be worth a shot for the GQ??
Hey mate can you do a follow up video with how the exhaust issue is fixed. Doing the exact same thing currently however going from a 2 to 4 inch lift and I know I'll have clearance issues with new extended shocks. Awesome vid btw. New subscriber here
Only just seeing this vid for the first time & still haven’t finished the vid. But take it from someone who grew up with old cars like eh xy chargers sigmas Toranas etc etc bla bla bla. Trucks tractors & 4wds & bikes so I can positively tell you it’s called a drag link! Nice clean gq to Still reckon the gq is the best patrol for simple & reliable if serviced & repaired regularly no bloody electrics & sensor & eve shit to go wrong & you can put any donk in it to if that floats ya boat!
I did a 3” stage 4 kit (drop box’s) lower control arms, panhards, extended brake lines, brake proportioning valve bracket, bump stops, springs and Shocks all on the ground. Not fun at all
Great episode ,very informative and well presented Dan and by the way the patrol is sitting and looking very neat love the mags against the red,keep up the great work fellas 👍
I recently did the same on my GQ, just changed my panhards and draglink. But I'm having problems with my Draglink hitting the panhard and steering damper when I do full turns. Any fixes?
A tie rod end is connected to the tie rod end even if it has 2 tie rod ends. A relay rod or drag link is connected to an arm on each end (Pittman arm to idler arm). Tie rods for this system come off the drag link to the tie rod ends. Old school. New school is puzzling and confusing. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Early Holden have the drag link system.
It's a bit sad when a workshop doesn't know what a tie rod is. Patrols have a drag link at the front between the knuckle and pitman arm, and a tie rod connecting the right hand knuckle to the left hand knuckle. Adjusting this tie rod sorts out your toe-in/out while adjusting the drag link centres your steering wheel after a lift.
16:23 badly elongated mounting holes on flanges. Happens to all Patrols from day one because this is a rare weak point on them. Explains the front end clunk you can't find.....
Those Patrols in my head look like someone smashed an Isuzu Trooper and Jeep Cherokee XJ together. Not a bad thing, Patrols are good looking rigs and I like having an XJ around.
TIE ROD v RELAY ROD?? Also what do you think of the rims ? 🤤
Tie rod arm
I personally love shiney boi rims haha
Tie rod
It's called a Drag link in Holden terminology. Easily bendable tie rod tube in Nissan spare parts catalogue.
I thought it was a drag link and tie rod ends
Dan actually might be the best presenter on the channel. Love it boys, keep up the good work.
Ditto. He's so knowledgeable and pleasant. Keep up the great work mate.
@@louvendran7273 yeah he seems like a real friendly fella
Very intelligent and casually charismatic.
Dan is so knowledgeable when it come to working on the cars and I love the way all you blokes get so excited about you're gear when you fix or mod something. Keep it up boys.
Great video as usual, love the fact that everything is so raw and isn’t sugar coated as some channels do.
As a mechanic myself when every I do a suspension lift on a customers vehicle, I always take before and after measurements. Just as a guide to see how much it’s actually lifted the vehicle, then again after road testing and settled in. It would of been interesting to see how much the old coils had sagged !
Keen on seeing future work on the gq 👌
Thanks Harley! :)
Memories right there... I fitted a lift kit in a GQ in that workshop about 14 years ago... Different owner back then and my GQ is long gone now.
Honestly never even heard relay rod... Tie rod it is😁
Relay rod with tie rod ends is 100% a thing, the 80 and 105 use them.
Yeah definitely a tie rod!
Dan is right... the ends are literally called “tie rod ends” and the front one is a drag link
Hey guys, great vid. If you want an arm that will correct alignment, is light and gets the job done. You can use SuperPro's TRC1015. It has built in caster correction. 4 Degrees for a 50mm lift and 2.5 Degrees for a 75mm lift. I would link you to our website but UA-cam sometimes doesn't like that.
Hi guys, thanks for letting us know, will keep those in mind for the future.
I’m trying to keep the patrol as a budget conscious build, hence going with the castor correction bushes supplied in the kit.
Had the patrol out this weekend and suspension performed very well.
Cheers
Dan
@@dantheman7647 No worries and great to hear! If you need any help, hit us up.
30:25 Keep your standard panhard for 2" lift, bring steering back to centre with adjustable drag link. That way you don't need 2 adjustable panhards at 4 times the cost. I extended my sway bar links with a piece of steel rod for $5 - cut your link in half, drill a hole in each end of steel rod, insert cut link and run a good weld. Also extend the rear brake bias bracket, dead simple to do.
Quality UA-cam rubbish advise... retaining std panhard and adjusting draglink stlll leaves the entire axle assembly off centre
Love your channel found it the other day. You need more content with Dan though, the bloke is an absolute wealth of knowledge!!!
I’m a Toyota bloke and it’s tie rod. I work at a cat dealer and cat calls it a tie rod aswell for the dump trucks and graders
Dan made me laugh with the typical patrol owner gag. 😂
Edit: Dan: "Everyone knows if something is shiny under a car it's illegal." 🤣🤣🤣
Literally just finished doing this to mine this morning. Exactly the same kit. I put all new bushes throughout front and back. With some Thunderer MT 285/75R16. Swivel hub rebuild kit with wheel bearings and used GU hub nuts. And fitted a pertronix ignition kit.
You should consider installing an extension bracket to the load sensing valve attached to the rear diff in order to get the brakes right. This was neglected on my Y61 when lifted by a previous owner. Correcting that made a huge difference on braking for me.
I love how clean it looks, very well done
Also It's a tie rod
Looks good glad to finally see a 2 inch on 35 can confirm I'll be putting a 2" in mine
love the banter makes the video so much more fun to watch keep it up guys
Dan is a great show host. Awesome video man !!!.
Great work again lads. Like the banter, makes for fun entertainment. And easy clear to follow ideas and help. Cheers
Im with dan onthis one, its a tierod
I love patty in theses videos. He asks all the questions id be asking.
Not sure if you have one on yours Dan, but I had to extend my brake proportioning bracket at the rear to keep the rear brakes working effectively
Tie rod or a track rod
Dan you are correct
Ifs has rack and pinion steering with tie rods, solid axle has drag link in front of diff and relay rod behind. The drag link on a solid axle RH drive vehicle is connected to the LH steer wheel from the pitman arm at the steering box and the relay rod ‘relays’ the movement to the RH steer wheel.
Solid axle have relay rod ends
Now that you have raised it 50mm....don't forget to also correct the break proportioning valve in the rear if it hasn't been done already. :)
Gotta be happy with that, looking a lot nicer.
Auto locker in the front and just drive over everything.
auto locker in the front because its part-time 4WD? or u reckon its actually better offroad?
Dan is a legend
Tie rod. If you were wrong once it was probably a mistake 👍
I went against convention and fitted GU sway bars...they are bigger. Still goes everywhere I want. (Also fitted Superior Superflex front arms)
Got a gq and did a 2inch lift without doing the bushes and rods... watched this video and now waiting for the parts to arrive so she doesn’t handle like a shopping trolley.. cheers heaps 😂
Dan don’t forget the brake proportioning valve. 2” wont do much, but seeing as you said you were OCD. :) Nice ride
Agree with Dan on that one tie rod not relay.
that is a mint tyre wheel combo and suspension. Great video
Props to you, you’re pretty good at explaining things
Should've put rubber bushes in. I changed mine from poly bushes to PSR rubber and there's way less vibration and shock coming through into the car. Rubber supposedly last longer too.
I so need that wheel and rim combo on my gq! Nice work
Old mate bodgey brother with the sledge hammer needs to wear a blue apron with white stripes when He whacks the tie rod end arm to distortion. They make tools to easily and properly remove tie rods without leaving hammer witness marks all over your steering components.
Slightly surprised he didnt use a copper hammer. Copper hammer is fine
@@keyboardplayerakas Use a purpose designed tie rod puller. I've come across many tie rods or pitman arms that are stuck in their taper or splines like there is no tomorrow, only a threaded puller will get them out. I would have supported that loose end of the drag link too rather than leave it hanging sideways on the tie rod casting.
@@keyboardplayerakas My other pet hate is those "mechanics" who hammer the free wheeling hub flange to distortion to get the cone washers out. Stick a fine bladed screwdriver in the cone washer split & twist them out.
@@dustyfarmer we do tierods on trucks most days at work and a copper hammer works fine for 99% of them. But like you say the 1% you need a puller to get them off. And yea would have just taken the tierod off not let it swing
@@keyboardplayerakas I work on a lot of Toyota Landcruisers, I go straight for the Toyota service tools / threaded puller every time, I only use a hammer & spreader fork if I'm replacing the tie rod.
If we could find a Mike Brewer in Australia then Dan could be Ed China, the boys would clean up, Dan is a natural. GREAT VIDEO well done.
Awesome video boys
You probably find it will be a stiff ride now with the nolathane bushes and those shocks.
But the gq is looking mint now bro
In South Africa we call it a drag link, the tie rod connects the drag link to the pitman arm, or on some instances the hubs to the drag link/pitman/idler arm.
Me finks it's dependent on where in the world you are.
This guy is quite entertaining to listen to! Wanted to keep watching… cheers 🤙🏼
Good Video, also looks a lot better with the lift. Nice Work!
Awesome video guy’s.
I didn’t know that you had to prime your shocks.
Them rims look mint bro 😎
Keep em comin 🤙🏽
tie rod! & front sway bars actually make them lift front wheels easier. better off with just the rear, especially considering fronts were a factory option 🤙🏼
great work lads and im loving the info your giving while doing the job
I think you need to put a Aussie Arvos sticker on the Dan's Patrol.
Very sensible approach! Gees, you guys make the more "respected authorities" on 4x4 mods look like salesmen. Can you find out if any of the people you guys deal with for mechanical work are familiar with the 4JX1? I'm in the SE burbs.
Call workshops and ask them.
haha this was such a good episode. keep it up boys!
Got the same shocks in my GU ute and had the same problem with the exhaust being too close. They just added a couple of spacers on the rear couple of exhaust hanger brackets to move the exhaust down a little and away from the shocks. Been in for around 6,000k's now with no dramas. Might be worth a shot for the GQ??
it is a tie rod, ties the wheels together. relay is what goes from steering box which is also a drag link
Good springs. I'll be interested to see how the Chinese shocks go!!
I bought my gu with tjm 2inch lift already installed and it's a handful to keep in straight line
Hey mate if you hit your flares with a gas torch it will take that white colouring off them did it to my patrol made it look way better👌
Rims look good, Dan, as does the lift.
Nice work now I want too get my ute in the shop too finish the front end for roady
Hey mate if you get sway bar links from a vz commodore they are long enough for me to run 4” lift and retain sway bar and way cheaper 👍
The relay rod relays steering from the steering box to the steering knuckle and then the tie rod ties the two knuckles together
Hey guys love the car and wheels and I saw you guys yesterday on skyline road hope your all having a good day
Another informative, well explained video guys
Thanks
Hey mate can you do a follow up video with how the exhaust issue is fixed. Doing the exact same thing currently however going from a 2 to 4 inch lift and I know I'll have clearance issues with new extended shocks. Awesome vid btw. New subscriber here
Cheers mate, all sorted now exhaust shop made a new rear section in about an hour 😂
Will be sure to include it in a future vid 🤙
@@dantheman7647 legend mate thank you
Sunday morning vid... sublime
Get a 2 inch square bar put 2 holes on them. Place them on top of the swaybar links. Instant extension.
Only just seeing this vid for the first time & still haven’t finished the vid. But take it from someone who grew up with old cars like eh xy chargers sigmas Toranas
etc etc bla bla bla. Trucks tractors & 4wds & bikes so I can positively tell you it’s called a drag link!
Nice clean gq to
Still reckon the gq is the best patrol for simple & reliable if serviced & repaired regularly no bloody electrics & sensor & eve shit to go wrong & you can put any donk in it to if that floats ya boat!
Finally a video not about the cruiser hahahah
Tie rod , a relay rod is what old mate plays with alone at night !!! 😂
Great vid. I've heard Relay rod and tie rod. I think it's called relay rod in manual.
Off road tires are pretty tough in general. Do you really need to carry the spare anywhere you go during daily drive ?
definitely a tie rod!
It's a tie rod and also the washer on the panhard is on the right way
Anyone else had those Windforce tyres?
Can we get a follow up on those tyres?
Commodore sway links are perfect for a 2” lift
I did a 3” stage 4 kit (drop box’s) lower control arms, panhards, extended brake lines, brake proportioning valve bracket, bump stops, springs and Shocks all on the ground. Not fun at all
Hey by any chance an you drop all the things you bought in the comments cause I’m looking to do a lift in the same model patrol and this looks great
Put a fire torch on the plastics to get them back to black
Going to look for a 2nd patrol now 😜
Would be great to hold Aussie arvos meet & greet! Possibly Like a show and shine. Would be great to be able to meet you all 🤙
Great episode ,very informative and well presented Dan and by the way the patrol is sitting and looking very neat love the mags against the red,keep up the great work fellas 👍
Good looking GQ, pity its not a 4.2 turbo diesel.
Great Success once again Dan.
Great video with heaps of great info and tips
i think it is a tie rod with the ends being relay ends as they pass on the effect of the relay rod. as i just purchased tie rod relay ends.
Mannn!! That GQ looks sick now!!
Reckon you lose the gas, maybe lose the issue with exhaust by doing that?!
Great video and the patrol looks awesome. Did you recalibrate the speedo for the larger wheels?
When I put 285s on my GU the speedo became 100% accurate. To the km.
Next episode Dan driving that moke in the background ?
Dan have you had any clearance issues with the tyres?
Was it a red cars only day when you filmed this video?
I recently did the same on my GQ, just changed my panhards and draglink. But I'm having problems with my Draglink hitting the panhard and steering damper when I do full turns. Any fixes?
A tie rod end is connected to the tie rod end even if it has 2 tie rod ends. A relay rod or drag link is connected to an arm on each end (Pittman arm to idler arm). Tie rods for this system come off the drag link to the tie rod ends. Old school. New school is puzzling and confusing. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Early Holden have the drag link system.
Definitely miss seeing James and Dan on the channel
Love watching you guys awesome
It can be a tie rod or connecting rod by Nissan genuine parts
Hey mate, is it necessary to fit caster correction bushes with a 2 “ lift ,cheers.
So you guys based in the Yarra Valley?
Bonnet entry stano shnorkel from patrol docta would be mint and chrome grill
It's a bit sad when a workshop doesn't know what a tie rod is. Patrols have a drag link at the front between the knuckle and pitman arm, and a tie rod connecting the right hand knuckle to the left hand knuckle. Adjusting this tie rod sorts out your toe-in/out while adjusting the drag link centres your steering wheel after a lift.
windforce sound as good as a set of happy tracks
16:23 badly elongated mounting holes on flanges. Happens to all Patrols from day one because this is a rare weak point on them. Explains the front end clunk you can't find.....
Those Patrols in my head look like someone smashed an Isuzu Trooper and Jeep Cherokee XJ together. Not a bad thing, Patrols are good looking rigs and I like having an XJ around.
Tie rod rims look mint