Fantastic video...I'm going to do this with my vx SS but 3.46 with a tru track was going to take it to a shop but after seeing this I'll tackle it myself.👍
Oh thanks man! Yeah they really aren’t that hard to do. And even without a hoist then can be changed over in a couple of hours. Will be a different car man diff gears make such a big difference, especially if you got the power and torque of an LS
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk I'm doing everything in stages so far I have had a small cam installed and underdrive balancer OTR CAI so now I'll do the diff then the next upgrade is a 2500/2700 stall converter when it's all done it should be much better than standard.
Hey mate I put a vy ss series2 speedo in my series1 vy ss and the fuel gauge reads opposite so empty is full and vice versa apparently due them both having a different fuel pump or sender . Do you know if it’s possible to change how the fuel gauge reads with a scan tool ?
Great video mate, you explained it well so now onto doing mine. My diff is so loud it sounds like a Sessner air plane, haha! and needs doing asap. I have a VS HSV CLUBSPORT with a 304 5ltr, I've put new heads on it that had a bit of porting work done on them. From what you were saying it's probably a m78 but definitely an LSD. I have to do the cv boots and repack with grease also. Out of curiosity do you know what the ratio would be in it?I wish my workshop looked as clean as yours haha. Anyway have a good weekend. 👍 🇭🇲
Thanks heaps for that supportive comment mate! You might even want to look at buying new CV shafts. They are not very expensive and the aftermarket ones are generally A bit stronger than the factory ones. There are also upgraded ones you can get which to cost more. More than likely your differential will be an M78, and if it is an automatic it’s likely it will have a 3.08 ratio. Manual should be 3.45/3.46
If it’s an M76 or M78 diff (V6) the diff pinion seal part number is 460448V If it’s an M80 diff (V8) the diff pinion seal part number is 461499P The side seal are the same for all the above diffs. Part number is 460789P, and obviously there’s 2 of them
Awesome Vid, you increased pulse by 900. my idea was divide original pulse number by 3.07(old diff) then multiply by new diff ratio 3.46. That gave me 7010 Have you heard that scenario? Cheers
Thanks for your video. It was very informative. Hey bud, I don't know if you still monitor your video responses, but I wondered if I can ask your advice. I have a VZ commodore wagon, with a 3.6 V6 Alloytech engine and a 4 speed auto all standard. My diff is on the way out (320,000 km), can you suggest the best standard replacement (second hand), for this model a 2005. Thank you in advance.
I definitely do mate and thank you so much for watching! I try to respond to as many comments as I can. Just after a little bit of an upgrade, try and find an LSD diff from a manual VX, VY, or VZ Commodore. They have the 3.46 ratio. And Chris RPM by about 300 on the freeway but will accelerate a little bit quicker off the line. You will need to get the speedo recalibrated afterwards though.
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk Actually just watched your video again and you spell out the answer to my question in the first bit. Thanks. Might go with the 3.08 non LSD as I have had it that way since 2008, and getting a used diff, is a temporary/band aid measure just for standard driving, as the rest of the car is on its way out anyway, and I will have to up grade to something. (saw a Great VE Commodore wagon for sale in Geelong for 15,700.00 with 175,000 on the odo...was very tempted....but worried about how long spares will be available). cheers.
Hi tony. Yeah mate you can. Just undo the 4x 13mm bolts that hold the mount to the floor, and then the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the back of the diff, and it comes right out
Just trial and error mate. Try a number (I used to change the number by around 250 at a time) save it, and go for a drive. Then I would use a gps speedo on my phone to compare the speed to
Just trial and error mate. Try a number (I used to change the number by around 250 at a time) save it, and go for a drive. Then I would use a gps speedo on my phone to compare the speed to
Why change the whole ABS unit including the hydraulics? Wouldn't it be easier to just undo a few screws and change the plastic solinoid assembly? Seems easier than having to undo a heap of hydraulic lines and rebleeding.
Thanks for the comment mate, but not sure what you mean? There’s no mention of the abs module in this video, nor did I undo any brake lines or bleed any brakes…
Yeah, I was trying to respond to a different video, where you replaced an ABS module on a VZ. The video went onto this one, and it landed in the wrong place.
@user-ye6tc2ko8p that video would not have been one of mine matey. I have no done any videos regarding abs modules. Only video I have done on a vz is of me making a a rear exhaust section.
It used to be, as the M80 used to have the snout on the front of the pinion, but now some M78’s have them also If it still has the sticker on the side of the diff you can decipher it through that
Does it still spin both wheels? The cone clutches in those LSD’s can bind up up. Can be sorted by running a different oil and / or putting an LSD additive in it. Nulon do a good LSD additive
Very informative, thanks a bunch for taking the time to film/explanation/educate the process. Much appreciated
Great tips too. How's it been since the installation?
Very welcome mate
Yep was all going well mate, however broke an axle bout a month ago (check latest vid) and had affected something in the diff
Fantastic video...I'm going to do this with my vx SS but 3.46 with a tru track was going to take it to a shop but after seeing this I'll tackle it myself.👍
Oh thanks man! Yeah they really aren’t that hard to do. And even without a hoist then can be changed over in a couple of hours. Will be a different car man diff gears make such a big difference, especially if you got the power and torque of an LS
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk I'm doing everything in stages so far I have had a small cam installed and underdrive balancer OTR CAI so now I'll do the diff then the next upgrade is a 2500/2700 stall converter when it's all done it should be much better than standard.
🔥
the diff bushing being quarter way out had me dying hahaha
Few people have asked about that. That’s how they are. When the bushing it pushed in all the way, it sort of cups over the back of the factory mount
Thanks mate
Welcome matey
mint vid
Thanks heaps man
The noise that you heard from the diff was it making a binding noise when take off
More slow speeds turning a corner
Nice Video bloke
Cheers man
With the snap on scan tool are you able to change the rpm gauge to suit an ss cluster face?
With a scan tool no, as they are quite different. I’ve heard with a tune (actually getting into and modifying the software) you can, but not 100% sure
Hey mate I put a vy ss series2 speedo in my series1 vy ss and the fuel gauge reads opposite so empty is full and vice versa apparently due them both having a different fuel pump or sender . Do you know if it’s possible to change how the fuel gauge reads with a scan tool ?
Hi jarrell. Yes it is mate. With a good scan tool you can do a fuel gauge recalibration to sort the problem
Great video mate, you explained it well so now onto doing mine. My diff is so loud it sounds like a Sessner air plane, haha! and needs doing asap. I have a VS HSV CLUBSPORT with a 304 5ltr, I've put new heads on it that had a bit of porting work done on them. From what you were saying it's probably a m78 but definitely an LSD. I have to do the cv boots and repack with grease also. Out of curiosity do you know what the ratio would be in it?I wish my workshop looked as clean as yours haha. Anyway have a good weekend. 👍 🇭🇲
Thanks heaps for that supportive comment mate! You might even want to look at buying new CV shafts. They are not very expensive and the aftermarket ones are generally A bit stronger than the factory ones. There are also upgraded ones you can get which to cost more. More than likely your differential will be an M78, and if it is an automatic it’s likely it will have a 3.08 ratio. Manual should be 3.45/3.46
Hey mate, great video. Just wondering where you found the torque specs for all the bolts? Thanks
Torque specs can be found in Gregory’s workshop manuals, it pretty sure they can all be found online now.
Do you know where I could download or get a manual online for that M 80 differential? And would you happen to know the backlash specs?
Thanks!
Which seals did you use when you replaced the seals? Im having trouble finding any via online shopping...
If it’s an M76 or M78 diff (V6) the diff pinion seal part number is 460448V
If it’s an M80 diff (V8) the diff pinion seal part number is 461499P
The side seal are the same for all the above diffs. Part number is 460789P, and obviously there’s 2 of them
Hey mate do you know how much gear oil 3.08:1 open takes?
Hey matey. Around 1.7lt
I’m guessing you originally had 3.08 gears in there. What did you end up going with?
Yeah mate that’s correct.
3.46:1 in this one
Awesome Vid, you increased pulse by 900. my idea was divide original pulse number by 3.07(old diff) then multiply by new diff ratio 3.46. That gave me 7010 Have you heard that scenario? Cheers
Thanks heaps man. Nah mate I haven’t of doing it that way but it does kinda make sense! I’ve just always done trial and error!
3.91 came in the HSV GTS
Thanks mate
Thanks for your video. It was very informative. Hey bud, I don't know if you still monitor your video responses, but I wondered if I can ask your advice. I have a VZ commodore wagon, with a 3.6 V6 Alloytech engine and a 4 speed auto all standard. My diff is on the way out (320,000 km), can you suggest the best standard replacement (second hand), for this model a 2005. Thank you in advance.
I definitely do mate and thank you so much for watching! I try to respond to as many comments as I can. Just after a little bit of an upgrade, try and find an LSD diff from a manual VX, VY, or VZ Commodore. They have the 3.46 ratio. And Chris RPM by about 300 on the freeway but will accelerate a little bit quicker off the line. You will need to get the speedo recalibrated afterwards though.
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk Actually just watched your video again and you spell out the answer to my question in the first bit. Thanks. Might go with the 3.08 non LSD as I have had it that way since 2008, and getting a used diff, is a temporary/band aid measure just for standard driving, as the rest of the car is on its way out anyway, and I will have to up grade to something. (saw a Great VE Commodore wagon for sale in Geelong for 15,700.00 with 175,000 on the odo...was very tempted....but worried about how long spares will be available). cheers.
So can you change the diff mount / bush with new 1 without taking diff fully out?
yeah i believe so
Hi tony. Yeah mate you can. Just undo the 4x 13mm bolts that hold the mount to the floor, and then the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the back of the diff, and it comes right out
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk cheers bro! I plan to give it ago as soon parts arrive 😀
How do you know what to set the pulses at
Just trial and error mate. Try a number (I used to change the number by around 250 at a time) save it, and go for a drive. Then I would use a gps speedo on my phone to compare the speed to
Just trial and error mate. Try a number (I used to change the number by around 250 at a time) save it, and go for a drive. Then I would use a gps speedo on my phone to compare the speed to
Hey mate are all the top bolts a 13mm?
Yes mate the 4 bolts for the rear mount where they go into the floor are all 13mm
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk sorry I meant the ones on top of the housing too?
How much faster would 4.11s be?
Well I’d presume it would be double the difference of what doing this ratio change would be. But cruising speed would be double the increase as well
Way faster
Why change the whole ABS unit including the hydraulics? Wouldn't it be easier to just undo a few screws and change the plastic solinoid assembly? Seems easier than having to undo a heap of hydraulic lines and rebleeding.
Thanks for the comment mate, but not sure what you mean? There’s no mention of the abs module in this video, nor did I undo any brake lines or bleed any brakes…
Yeah, I was trying to respond to a different video, where you replaced an ABS module on a VZ. The video went onto this one, and it landed in the wrong place.
@user-ye6tc2ko8p that video would not have been one of mine matey. I have no done any videos regarding abs modules. Only video I have done on a vz is of me making a a rear exhaust section.
Is the M80 identifiable ??
It used to be, as the M80 used to have the snout on the front of the pinion, but now some M78’s have them also
If it still has the sticker on the side of the diff you can decipher it through that
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk many thanks
M78 and m80 lsds are cone type not clutch
Yep that’s true
I've got a vy2 with LSD, knocky as on tight movement , no LSD left I don't think 🤣
Does it still spin both wheels? The cone clutches in those LSD’s can bind up up. Can be sorted by running a different oil and / or putting an LSD additive in it. Nulon do a good LSD additive
3.9:1 came on gts,r
Thanks for the info matey. I presume in manuals?