I would also recommend setting the valve clearance to the looser setting of .29mm in order to buy some more time before the exhaust valves tighten again.
How can you be this precise with valve clearance? For example, if your tolerances are 0,25mm +- 0,02mm, and you try to set it to 0,27mm. First, my feeler gauges only allow me to choose 0,25mm. But even if I had a 0,27mm feeler gauge, chances are that it will have some valves too loose, I think the 0,02mm tolerance is here because it's impossible to adjust perfectly the valves beyond that precision. I think that if you try to adjust it to 0.27mm for example, you could end up with 0.28mm, and you're out of spec
The correlation between clearance and lift is often misunderstood by many people, even in youtube videos. If you have a valve lift of, say, 9mm, what importance do you think a valve that has been misadjusted by 0.2mm will lift? Either 8.8mm or 9.2mm, for example, and these are the extremes. None of these will effect performance in any noticable manner. The real problem is when the clearances are so tight that the valve might not fully seal, and let gases on either side escape slightly. An exhaust valve is especially in danger if this occurs, because the running engine's piston might try to scavenge the hot burnt exhaust gas through an exhaust valve that is a tiny bit open before the actual valve lift, and the very small cross section will result in high gas flow which may burn the valve to a degree that it loses the metal tempering (gets blue/purple, and weakens).
What if both intake and exhaust valves were slightly open? One exhaust valve dropped so I’m replacing them all but not sure if I should also replace all intake also🤔 thanks for any advice
Thank you for the good job. I have a question please: I have a Honda K24A8 engine (2006 Accord), in the book the valve clearance is 8 inch Intake and 11 inch Exhaust. My friend has 2008 Accord that has K24Z2 Engine with 8inch Intake and 10 Exhaust. So, can i adjust my K24A8 engine valves to be 8 INTAKE / 10 Exhaust as the K24A2 clearance? I want to do it to decrease the voice of the valves as possible. Please advise. Thanks
Looks like that is .011 to .012 in inches I would stick to the book.. it is probably written that way for a reason but you might have better feedback from a K series forum. Good luck!
Thanks. I was hearing a clicking noise on my 2002 Accord 4 cylinder (110,000 miles). I went in, and found the exhaust valves on cylinders 1 and 2 were tight. So I adjusted them. but I'm wondering if it's too late. Damage already done?
Hey mate, just a question. My bike, honda cbr 600 rr 2004, is lately stalling in neutral at stops even clutched in and also while riding will lose power for a second or two or will jerk forward sometimes as I'm deccelerating. Do you have any idea what that might be? Thanks
How do I know I did a valve adjustment wrong? I feel like the engine sounds different now. Almost like there is an air leak, but all the hoses are connected correctly. I don't have any check engine light, no oil leaks, and there is no vibration outside of normal, but I still hear a slight clicking as though I didn't do it quite right on cylinder 1 or 2. But the difference in engine sound is quite a bit different to me, and I'm concerned I didn't adjust correctly. How do I know?
I’m curious to know as well. I adjusted mine for the first time and quadruple checked everything. Now the engine is a lot more noisy like I can hear the valves where as it used to be quiet. Runs good and idles smooth tho so idk.
If you ever never heard that from the beginning even when you brought the car u should never even attempt to do valve lash cause onces u do it it never sound the same
After tappet adjustment my bike starts release smoke on morning (only on first start & then clean exhaust) and some vibration with a misfire sound. Is there some major damage can be possible or just some adjustments requires
Hey man, I really appreciate your videos! I've used several of them to guide me along. I feel about 90% sure I could do a valve adjustment, (I was able to do everything else so far without issue, a TCT for example) but I'm just a little worried as it involves more serious maintenance. I have about 75k on my 2003 AP1 right now: You mentioned 2006+ AP2s having tight exhaust valves, so does this mean AP1s are less prone to this in general? Should I just hold off until about 100K? Thanks again. -Ryan
+Larriice Glad my videos are helping you out! Yes, AP1s don’t need to have their valves adjusted as often. Additionally, the valve don’t necessarily tighten like they do with the 2006+ cars. If you don’t know the last time a valve adjustment has been done yet I would recommend doing it now just to see how things are. After the first time you can do it in 75k intervals.
Aaahhh... Adjustable valves on an engine. Where are they on the modern ones? Wait! I know, the brilliant manufacturers decided to replace them with buckets to keep you going back to the dealer if problems come up.
@@bentonrodeheaver2596 the shims are removable from between the cam and the bucket, you just need a tool to push between the cam and bucket, adjustments are relatively simple.
@@evilsadvocate I saw a vid that showed buckets that had removeable buttons (down inside bucket) that could be changed out. I don't think qr25de buckets are like those. (don't know)I have one known tight bucket and was thinking of using the dremel to clearance the button to spec instead of buying one .
I would also recommend setting the valve clearance to the looser setting of .29mm in order to buy some more time before the exhaust valves tighten again.
How can you be this precise with valve clearance?
For example, if your tolerances are 0,25mm +- 0,02mm, and you try to set it to 0,27mm. First, my feeler gauges only allow me to choose 0,25mm. But even if I had a 0,27mm feeler gauge, chances are that it will have some valves too loose, I think the 0,02mm tolerance is here because it's impossible to adjust perfectly the valves beyond that precision.
I think that if you try to adjust it to 0.27mm for example, you could end up with 0.28mm, and you're out of spec
Good point. Most diy'ers dont understand that.
Would it cause gas in spark plug or a gas like smell??
On my b20z2 pr3-4 cylinder 1 is 70psi others are 130psi some one said valve lash
Don’t think so
The correlation between clearance and lift is often misunderstood by many people, even in youtube videos. If you have a valve lift of, say, 9mm, what importance do you think a valve that has been misadjusted by 0.2mm will lift? Either 8.8mm or 9.2mm, for example, and these are the extremes. None of these will effect performance in any noticable manner. The real problem is when the clearances are so tight that the valve might not fully seal, and let gases on either side escape slightly. An exhaust valve is especially in danger if this occurs, because the running engine's piston might try to scavenge the hot burnt exhaust gas through an exhaust valve that is a tiny bit open before the actual valve lift, and the very small cross section will result in high gas flow which may burn the valve to a degree that it loses the metal tempering (gets blue/purple, and weakens).
thank you for not spreading misinformation
Nice work as always!
Thanks John!
I'm so stupid not checking the valve clearance sooner.. all the valves on my intake are completely 0..i have like 30 psi on every cylinder
What if both intake and exhaust valves were slightly open? One exhaust valve dropped so I’m replacing them all but not sure if I should also replace all intake also🤔 thanks for any advice
I don't know. I would ask your engine builder.
If my spec is from .010-.014 and i have one valve that is at .008 and the rest at .009 should i be fine or should i fix them all ?
Thank you for the good job.
I have a question please:
I have a Honda K24A8 engine (2006 Accord), in the book the valve clearance is 8 inch Intake and 11 inch Exhaust. My friend has 2008 Accord that has K24Z2 Engine with 8inch Intake and 10 Exhaust.
So, can i adjust my K24A8 engine valves to be 8 INTAKE / 10 Exhaust as the K24A2 clearance?
I want to do it to decrease the voice of the valves as possible.
Please advise.
Thanks
Usually the valve clearance is within a range. What is the exhaust side range? Or is it supposed to be an exact number?
DIYGuys
The ehxhaust range is from 0.28 to 0.32 mm.
Looks like that is .011 to .012 in inches
I would stick to the book.. it is probably written that way for a reason but you might have better feedback from a K series forum. Good luck!
Thank you
If valve lash is fine done adjusted it leave it alone once u adjust it it not sound the same
Is this shim under bucket valves? Wondering if closer to min OEM spec or max OEM specification is better.
Not shim
Since they eventually tighten I would err on the side of max spec but I’ve never had to do a valve clearance check fortunately
Agree
Thanks. I was hearing a clicking noise on my 2002 Accord 4 cylinder (110,000 miles). I went in, and found the exhaust valves on cylinders 1 and 2 were tight. So I adjusted them. but I'm wondering if it's too late. Damage already done?
If you don’t have a check engine light you’re probably fine.
Hey mate, just a question.
My bike, honda cbr 600 rr 2004, is lately stalling in neutral at stops even clutched in and also while riding will lose power for a second or two or will jerk forward sometimes as I'm deccelerating.
Do you have any idea what that might be?
Thanks
No sorry
Probably carb related
How do I know I did a valve adjustment wrong? I feel like the engine sounds different now. Almost like there is an air leak, but all the hoses are connected correctly. I don't have any check engine light, no oil leaks, and there is no vibration outside of normal, but I still hear a slight clicking as though I didn't do it quite right on cylinder 1 or 2. But the difference in engine sound is quite a bit different to me, and I'm concerned I didn't adjust correctly. How do I know?
I’m curious to know as well. I adjusted mine for the first time and quadruple checked everything. Now the engine is a lot more noisy like I can hear the valves where as it used to be quiet. Runs good and idles smooth tho so idk.
If you ever never heard that from the beginning even when you brought the car u should never even attempt to do valve lash cause onces u do it it never sound the same
After tappet adjustment my bike starts release smoke on morning (only on first start & then clean exhaust) and some vibration with a misfire sound.
Is there some major damage can be possible or just some adjustments requires
I know nothing about bikes sorry
Hey man, I really appreciate your videos! I've used several of them to guide me along. I feel about 90% sure I could do a valve adjustment, (I was able to do everything else so far without issue, a TCT for example) but I'm just a little worried as it involves more serious maintenance.
I have about 75k on my 2003 AP1 right now: You mentioned 2006+ AP2s having tight exhaust valves, so does this mean AP1s are less prone to this in general? Should I just hold off until about 100K?
Thanks again.
-Ryan
+Larriice Glad my videos are helping you out! Yes, AP1s don’t need to have their valves adjusted as often. Additionally, the valve don’t necessarily tighten like they do with the 2006+ cars. If you don’t know the last time a valve adjustment has been done yet I would recommend doing it now just to see how things are. After the first time you can do it in 75k intervals.
+Larriice I say go for it! Additionally you might want to consider replacing the valve cover gasket. I’ll have a video on that soon.
DIYGuys Thanks man, I'm going to order the tools tonight, as well as the OEM gaskets.
Aaahhh... Adjustable valves on an engine. Where are they on the modern ones? Wait! I know, the brilliant manufacturers decided to replace them with buckets to keep you going back to the dealer if problems come up.
my 79 honda cb750 has buckets
@@evilsadvocate I didn't know buckets went back to that year Honda! I'll bet you wish had the adjustable type.
@@bentonrodeheaver2596 the shims are removable from between the cam and the bucket, you just need a tool to push between the cam and bucket, adjustments are relatively simple.
@@evilsadvocate I saw a vid that showed buckets that had removeable buttons (down inside bucket) that could be changed out. I don't think qr25de buckets are like those. (don't know)I have one known tight bucket and was thinking of using the dremel to clearance the button to spec instead of buying one .
@@bentonrodeheaver2596 yes that thought has crossed my mind too.
Best preventative is an upper cylinder lubricant
just saw a video some dude in the junkyard like you will drop a valve and trash the head several problems with that statement.. nonetheless