Testing a cheap Chinese er32 collet set, can it get any worse?
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I messed up one of my collets and I can't find a replacement.
So I asked Banggood if I could do a review on one of their nice looking collet sets.
They agreed and send me a case filled with shiny ER32 collets, a hook spanner and a mt3 collet chuck that fits my old lathe.
So, go watch this dreadfully long review video featuring some metal turds and the ultimate quality control failure.
Want to support my video efforts, you could buy some shit through my Ebay and Banggood affiliated links below :)
some products I really like:
CCMT inserts: ebay.to/2MHIqz3
Diamond hone: www.banggood.c...
Rolingmetal community tab: bit.ly/2TkLrH0
Rolingmetal photo album: bit.ly/2KQJIdu
Seems the manufacturer used their own tooling to make their products, and so the error increases.
Their quality control system is clearly working well as the door stop.
Far from a usable product, unless you intend making scrap.
MT-"B" means morse taper with M12 tread in the back. MT-A has the flat back... you could say MT-A is for lathes and MT-B for mills.
B is for a drawer bar (not all are M12 or even metric), A is for a tang. Lathes have draw bars too.
@@philcook9967 you're right. I was only thinking of the tailstock.
LOL! If you look closely while it's spinning, you can even see how it's wiggling up and down by the end of the video
I was a collet and Chuck maker for around 15 years. The problem with alot of this crap is all the secondary grinding !!! Actually the best way to make a collet is by NOT grinding . No joke . You want to very accurately turn the o.d , holes above 5/16 you bore them slightly under - 2 passes then hone exactly to size to plus .0005, and slot . No hardening . If you use stressproof or edt150 they work and wear awesome. The o.d is lightly polished after slotting to deburr and inside is honed with fine Emery on an arbor by hand . And er collets are " NOT " a wide range collet !!! If you want extreme accuracy the i.d of collet must be to size plus .0015" max and you seldom get away with using say a .236" tool 1/4" collet it will no longer contact on the true radius and will run out and not be parallel . Also alot of Chuck caps fit WAY to loose and distort the collet as it clamps. Exact size is the way to go , and lastly when tightening a collet if you hear a creak or noise - IT IS overtorqued and the collet distorted . Erickson also makes very good collets . Kenametal check them all .Also to test a check and or collet , use a simple precision v block in excellent condition , no bearings !!! A good collet and Chuck will be very repeatable , but you may find clamping and unclampung then reclamping will net better results especially with Da / double angle collets. Lastly most collets are simply not sized properly and or the secondary grinding opp ruined the accuracy - that's the china and old school way believe me . Better off to just polish and or nickle plate . All good collets are made that way weather you want to believe it or not .
Hi Cornel - In your opinion, what is a good collet set for the home hobbyiest/prototype person? I'd appreciate your opinion.
"Buy cheap, buy twice"
The old saying that is nearly always true, as I've learned over the years.
Great video.
These collets are perfect for our throw away economies
You'll introduce cosine error to the measurement if you use plunger type indicator in an angle to the piece you're testing. As you do at 7:40. And also when you test the run out of the shaft, you need to be almost exactly perpendicular to the surface you test to get accurate results... unless all you care about are relative measurements. And even then the indicator should be at the same angle every time you make the measurement :)
I already ordered a 19 collet set and a separate mt3 collet arbor off Aliexpress. After watching your video, the first thing I’m gonna do is a similar test. If the results were bad and cannot be fixed on my lathe, I’ll return them and demand a refund. Thank for enlightening me and the others. There’s good in every bad. With this video, you gained good deed points that will benefit you in the life after.
I believe Banggood is reselling a batch of rejected collets and chucks. So your Aliexpress purchase might be fine.
I hope it is because collets with run out are just paperweights :)
I have the cheapest ER40 collet chuck and back plate I could find on ebay. I turned the backing plate in place on the lathe spindle. I am showing less than 5 tenths runout on the collet chuck. I bought the cheapest ER 40 collets I could find. TIR is 5 tenths or less. For less than $75 for an ER40 chuck and threaded back plate and $65 for collet set I would say 5 tenths is good enough for me.
If you spindle runout and you have chuck runout it can either add to total or it can subtract from total runout. Also the spindle runout will get worse as distance gets greater from the bearing.
I also have bought cheap and have had a lot of runout on a live center. But what I have found is most of the cheap stuff is pretty good and will be good enough for most home shops that don't do a lot of work.
You won't get super accuracy using the taper in the spindle if you have spindle taper runout. You would be better off using a back plate that screws onto the spindle then turn it to fit a ER collet chuck made for a back plate. This way your chuck should be concentric to the spindle. Your only error would be the quality of the taper in the collet chuck. You could then touch it up with a tool post grinder to make the chuck as good as your spindle.
Thanks for 'taking one for the team' I will steer clear. Cheers.
Excellent video production and testing. I bought a set recently from eBay and I paid about 51-52 USD. Same box, same bad runout. I had to convert metric to imperial numbers. I decided to bore out collet holder to the best of my ability I set about 8 degree angle and used compound and finished with with sand paper, the end result improved from .005" to .002" still no good in my book worse than my 4" chuck I got from banggood which I am extremely pleased with it gives me as .0005" (half a thousand). I haven't done thorough testing and I also I trued up my spindle face on my Chineese Grizzly mini lathe by turning which I realize later should be ground. Anyway, there is company called Shars and they sell a collet chuck but it runs 68 bucks which is more what I paid for the whole set. In the meantime I decided to order a replacement chuck from Amazon, it's $20 bucks but at least I can return it in case it's bad.
The only way to check the run out is on a v block & put a ball bearing opposite end ,up against a steel block & revolve it,with D T I in the bore ,don't use a plunge D T I, great video as always, Happy new year ,Coventry UK.
Maybe one day I'll get all the fancy tools and do it right. Till then I'll just ballpark it :)
this test beautifully shows the reason for that old advise.. buy the best u can afford. And i would add that if the best u can afford is bad.. dont buy lol
Pretty sure er collet are designed for full insertion. As the hole thing evenly closes thruought the collet. Unlike 5c or r8 collet the pinch at the end only
I've tried several Chinese sets from ER8 to 32. They have all been junk, some much worse than others. I wound up regrinding what I didn't return but most suppliers simply gave me my money back and told me to keep the collets. If you want good collets you have to pay quite a bit for them. I even tried buying slightly higher priced sets that were just as bad. For a decent set you have to pay around $100. US for them.
Rob
I had the same experience with multiple Chinese sets too, they are all useless and waste of money.
Funny, I have the same damn gravity in my shop.🤔
Thank you. Outstanding review. I guess putting mill bits in a 3 jaw chuck is better.
OK, they were bad. But what runout would you regard as acceptable, and what would have been good?
I love your reviews man. Zero bullshit. 👍🏼👍🏼
you should at least be using a test indicator to measure the TIR of those internal bores
Brother, may I suggest that you always get your dial indicator as close as possible to 90 degrees to the job to get a true reading. Try and use a lever type dial indicator with the finger also as close as possible to 90 degrees if you want to take an actual true reading. If you just want to get the job as center as possible (no or very little run out) then it doesn't really matter that much.
Pardon me for asking but did you test the runout of the test material before measuring its runout in the collet?
That's a fair question. I've used these before for similar tests so I know the are round and straight.
I am very fortunate for having some Schaublin collets........... When you check those you think first the dial indicator is either broken or not moving because of not touching the shaft clamped in the collet.... Then you realise it is just 0........ A Swiss 0 meaning 0.000mm And then I read in an old catalog of 1960 that the old collets i have are just the standard precision collets and that even more precise collets can be ordered.........And that also applies for the lathe itself.
As far as I know, the MTB means no flange (for use with drawer bar), whilst the MTA means has the flange.
Don't even need the dial, you can see the run-out with the naked eye. Thanks for the review of this garbage, you have done a great service to the community.
Nick Blacklock yeah i can see that
I use a bunch of different brands , many are Iscar that I bought when my milling machine was delivered, but I have been buying individual collets from a local tool supplier who gives me great prices. The brand he sells is Sandvik, but he also sells Vertex collets and holders , which are about half the price. I use the same 4 or 5 collets for the most part, so rather than a set (which I have) from now on I will just buy individual ones when I need them at approx $30 AUD each for Vertex. No difference noticed on the machine between them and Iscar and I am a big fan of Iscar cutters, so Vertex seems to be the cheap option for quality
HBM sells Vertex for 15 euro a piece. To bad they are ER40 and not ER32.
no doubt there are more places to buy them
Hi there, I bought a cheapie er32 collet set from ebay and had many of the same issues you do, although my collets look a bit better, maybe no dints. Anyway i found using a test indicator that the internal collet taper of the holder was not cocentric with the rest of the holder (off by a lot!). The threads and and outside of the holder were cocentric with the MT though. So I just carefully recut the internal collet taper with it mounted on the lathe and now i have a very accurate holder.
I find that some of the collets have some run out, and on close inspection they still have some burrs inside where the slitting saws went. A quick clean out with a deburrer and now i have an accurate collet set.
For less than AUD$80 for a 20 piece set and a holder, who can argue compared to over AUD$300!!
I don't really think this is a quality control failure here, this is the components that fail quality control for the $300 sets, but are still usable, so they sell them to us! hahahaha a lot of the issues are cosmetic and will not affect accuracy.
Nice work with the video and I hope you get use out of the set.
Cheers
Good to know you successfully fixed up your collet set.
It makes me hopeful for a similar result :)
Those collets in the beginning look like TG100 collets, but he only way to know is to measure and compare to catalogs.
They are about 45.15 mm long and 24mm wide. That's close to TG75 but not close enough.
Thanks for making me aware of the existence of TG collets :)
Nice, informative video! Thank you and happy new year!👍
Always wondered why the ER Collets on my Drill Sharpening Machine gave me beans and did not fit well. Never checked these. Damn. Took them for granted to be well manufactured and running true. Need to go and thoroughly inspect them like U did. What a disappointment and let down. However, some of their products have improved Quality wise - apparently NOT these. Thanks for sharing.
ATB
aRM
This sure was a big disappointment. But you're right, there is good stuff coming from China.
Thanks for letting me know about these.
You're welcome. I would also stay away from their flange mounted collet chucks. ua-cam.com/video/ADg5m-I-j_g/v-deo.html
Guys collets are very important parts, never buy cheap one, i had a bad experice with cheap one, not accurate ( ex-centric) , dont hold the tool well, they break easy, in the middle of a job, i had to change with old original french brand, big difference.
I've got the same set. Turns out the taper in the collet chuck is different to the taper on the outside of the collets. Mine only make contact in a small band near the front of the collet. I will try to open out the taper in the chuck for full contact
How were you able to accurately determine this problem?
What do I need and need to do to run collets in my 8” tradesman drill press? I know I know it’s a cheap press but it’s all I got. 1/4hp--1/2 Morse chuck.
Turning into shop mill for wood and stock chuck is to deep will crosscut vise and more importantly can’t tighten up on any my end mills I recently bought.! Please help
I doubt you van buy ready made collet chucks for that.
So your saying that switching my drill press to an er32 is not possible from Morse
Is there any place you can buy a decent collet chuck that isn’t crap? Even if it costs more?
While yeilding dissappointing results, your video was great. I pondered buying one of these sets, in SAE as I’m in the USA. i may simply buy a chuck from a reputible source and get collets as I need them. Thanks for saving some of us the poor experience. If you find a decent set, at a reasonable price, would you post that source?
You should look into those collets in round transparent containers on aliexpress.
When I have earned enough money with my Banggood affiliate sales I'll probably buy some of those.
I had to bore mine out yesterday as it was running .25mm out!
Great video as always . I don’t buy cheap tools any more , I would rather save my money and buy the best I can. This just gos to show that Chinese cheap tools are totally crap
May I ask, why your spindle has a lot of runout. Have you just changed the ball bearings.
It's just old and has a bit of wear in its tapered bronze bearings.
your spindle runs out .2 mm? A good collet chucking system isn't going to fix that .2 mm (.008"). That's a terrible amount for the spindle taper to runout.
I have given up on banggood anything that requires any level of precision is more often than not rubbish. And when you try to complain, they just constantly fail too understand the problem
I think they sell rejects to naive western customers and play dumb to you give up complaining. Great business model :)
the problem should happen at the hammer tapping process. only the same position the author tap makes taper joint bend. I think.
I have purchased several varieties of ER collet chucks from China, presumably from different vendors. ALL of them had fairly accurate collets, fairly accurate collet chuck bores, and inadequately relieved collet nut bores. I have no idea why this is so. Are these Chinese vendors copying each other’s mistakes? The finish was not so bad as yours. Anyway, be sure to have a look at the relief inside the collet nut, as that was the source of all the runout problems on the chucks I bought, and it was easily fixed.
I think the collet nut might have come from another manufacturer. The machining and finishing is certainly a step up compared to the collet chuck. Maybe all collet manufacturers get their collet nuts from the same place. That would explain your situation.
But you're right that hole feels a bit tight for most collets. One collet hardly didn't fit at all.
Just a question brother, how sure are you that your stock material is 100% straight?
To be honest I don't know. They are grounded pieced of HSS and those are normally pretty decent.
Ground stuff? I think it should be good!
How long is the threaded portion for the drawbar? Thanks.
Hard to measure, but I would say about 2cm, and that is more than long enough. Some one once told me that the first 3 winding take more than 90% of the load.
@@Rolingmetal Much appreciated!
MTA is with drive lip and MTB is with threaded end.
Thank for that. I didn't know there were MT collet chucks with tangs/lips.
Perfect for the tailstock no need to make add an eject stub.
"tool temple" lol. I'm stealing this haha
Use caution in ordering from Banggood. I ordered 6 tool holders and some inserts the first part of December. The first week in January I got a plastic envelope in the mail from the post office. It was marked "Arrived empty" at the Omaha facility. Inside was a paper envelop with the tracking # I had gotten from Banggood and a letter of apology from the Post Office. I photographed everything and sent it to Banggood. I got a reply telling me to go to my local post office and get proof that I had not gotten my stuff. I ended up having to go to the post master's office where they provided me with a letter on USPS letter head, signed by the post master. Very accommodating! I sent that off today, we will see. Not sure how that is going to be any better than the photos of the envelopes.
That sucks, hope it works out.
2 of my Banggood packages never arrived. One was send from China the other came from their EU warehouse, I believe it's in the UK. They were low cost Items so no tracking number. The mail isn't what it used to be :(
Banggood had sent me an email asking if I wanted them to send the tool holders or a refund. I answered send the tool holders. It is now April and I have not gotten neither. Suspect they don't intend to do either. I have sent follow ups but gotten no replies.
If they have resend the tool holders they should show up on your orders list.
That's what happened when they resend my lost package.
(The longest I had to wait for something is 5 weeks)
Nothing on my orders list, April 7, 2018. They obviously has no intention of sending. We have exchanged too many e-mails for them to have not understood. I did everything they asked. The question is, why did they even ask if I wanted the tools or a refund? Just to humor me? Never again!
HAS =have, bad typing.
I tested my set it only has 15 thousands of tir .LOL I got a new high quality colet holder that is almost dead on
.
Oei, ik zal daar geen 2de set collets kopen, wel heb ik een er32- diameter 80mm collect chuck gekocht bij Banggood. Na het maken van de achterplaat is alles binnen 0.01mm behalve dat ik ook een andere betere moer heb gebruikt. Nu afwachten hoe de ER32 square en Hex zullen zijn!
Luc
Ik heb ook zo'n 80mm collet chuck. Ziet er een stuk beter uit dan die mt3 chucks.
Moet er alleen nog keer een montageplaat voor maken.
I had similar findings with a Chinese ER11 collet set from eBay. Churning out this crap is a criminal waste of resources. Why can't they understand that they would make more money and have satisfied customers from making a good product?
Wow! I can't believe they sell that junk. I would be embarrassed to give it away for free.
Steve
Thanks for testing these. Now we don't have to waste our money on them.
I learned a lot, thanks
Me too, Lee. It was a pretty shocking video. I had no idea stuff could be that bad.
Usually you get what you pay for; this is a prime example.
A very good review sir, and it teaches us all to take nothing for granted, have you had any feedback from Banggood?
Thank you. I left a negative review on the product page with a link to my video.
I expect they will contact me at some point this week.
I bought one and it is crap but it has done what i wanted it for
Anything will only be as tight tolerance as your machine is. As far as precision goes. Cheap collet sets qc goes out the window when you give in for value over precision. Good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good.
Banggood name spells it all. Cheap import Chinese made. Not to mention run out tests with a indicator as such lol. No hate towards the video. Its just truths. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
I bought a set off ebay collets and R8 32 holder separately and they can not be used for acurite work they are so far off it is ridiculous. still not sure where all the error is coming from, seems like all the parts are bad.
We should collects all these worthless collects, track down the manufacturer, and charter a B52 to bomb the factory with their own shit. But they will probably sell them right back at us.
I always wondered how bad could they be for the price; maybe I could do some rework and get something usable? Completely unusable - good to know.
There must be good low priced ones out there, but how do find those.....
The problem I see, is the middle range tool market is non-existent or is in decline. You have choice of buying suspiciously cheap tools that have some probability going to scrap metal after first use or you buy Rolls Royce quality and prices.
I don't understand why people want the tools to have a smooth finish (glossy /chrome), the more rough the taper is the better it holds !!
I don't think that's true.The smoother the surface the bigger the contact area.
Great work
Wow, I didn't realize a collet set could actually be this bad. That's not even serviceable, much less usable. It's almost like they pass anything that looks decent at a glance. Basically a paper tiger.
"Now I have to watch it all again while editing this video. Great." I woke my wife up laughing so hard!
Hopefully I didn't get you into trouble :)
its collets that quality control chucked in the bin .. then someone pick them up and sell ..
hi
what the difference between Mt and Er colletS
MT collets will go directly into a MT lathe spindle. For ER collets you need a collet chuck.
MT stands for Morse Taper and ER is something pirates used to say.
thank you
AM NEW AT this thing i like to learn that way i asking
i just see tubes and trying to learn
the mt collets or the the er has thread inside its the same thread on all colllets or depending on the mill spindle and the drow bar ?
All MT collets and ER collet chucks I've seen had thread in the.
But the thread isn't the same for all. There are imperial and metric threads.
The size of the thread also changes with the collet chuck size.
thank you
its very useful
To expand on the concept:
Do NOT use MT collets. MT tapers are locking tapers and are meant to hold tool holders, they are not meant to hold collets. You can damage your taper using them.
ER and C series collets use a self-releasing taper, R series collets use a semi-locking taper.
ER collets are meant for tool holding, and the tool must be fully engaged or you can ruin the collet (this is what he shows in the beginning). ER collets have a large compression range, and are accurate over that range.
C series collets are meant for work holding, you can hold right at the end of the collet, but they have a more limited compression range. C collets are also available in square, hex, expanding, etc.
If you got stuck with a mill with an MT taper, you should invest in a ER system, and not swap out the MT taper unless really needed. The MT taper will wear out rapidly in a mill, they are really only suited for lathes and drills.
If you are considering using collets for work holding, get the C series - they are just far better for this.
If you are shopping for a mill, I suggest you consider anything with an MT taper to be a deal breaker - they are just stupid for mills. I have no idea why Europeans get shafted with them so much. R8 is the right taper for a mill.
Thats your opinion....thats not bad for what they cost....and also you got it for free so complaining isnt very fair....you can not expect a 5$ tool to be as accurate as a 100$ tool
Did you actually watch the whole video?
Getting them for free shouldn't matter on the review outcome.
Even though I spent a lot of hours to make this video and ended up with nothing for my efforts.
The further you get from the bearing the more the run-out is amplified. You should be moving (rotating) various components to get closer to zero overall. It's a PITA but will compensate for the spindle error
There is a reason Swiss and German and high end Japanese tools cost more. They are made to spec , and you don't have to whine!!
If it was possible to get less run out with the collet holder rotated, I don't understand why you didn't do that then check the actual collets? It's too easy to line up the offsets and criticize a cheap collet set. Stuff that cheap should really be treated as a kit that you finish machining when you get it
You really have to play with the volume levels when shooting these videos with the vfd. Holly shitake mushrooms.
Below a certain frequency there is a lot more noise.
Good review, but not so good product. The last collet you showed my fit, but needs to be tilted into the offset locking part of the nut - at least this is how my collet nut works.
I have an ER32 set I purchased for my wood lathe. I will have to check these to see if my collets have the same issues as yours.
Flats on chucks are often too big for normal wrenches. In the US I found what is called a Slip Nut wrench, intended for large sewer split nuts. Do these exist in the Netherlands? An example US link.
www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Adjustable-Slip-Nut-Wrench-HDX152/204218628
That's also how these work, but I just couldn't hook it behind the ridge. With a lot of force I eventually got it in.
I've never seen a crescent wrench like that before but they are probably around. Bangood even sells a short handle version. But that looks pretty useless.
Collet manufacture: zhengyu03@sdzhengyu.com
I wonder if there is a way to fix them ? other than using TNT lol
Best bury then in a field and place an anthrax warning sign.
I cant afford to bury them I have no choose but to use them and try to fix them
oh my god when you measured the runout my ears were being raped
You should hear my old VFD :) ua-cam.com/video/gL1G8DLfzJI/v-deo.html
b.t.w. it's going to make a comeback on that little blue bench lathe I'm fixing up.
Did you ever find a good budget collet set?
Nope, haven't been looking. I'm just using a decent drill chuck. Maybe one day I'll try collet again :)
Nothing is useless - this collet set is a good example of something to avoid.
Radioactive waste is another good example.
Their junk is always too hard or too soft. Burrs, sloppy threads, crooked brittle drill points that melt or snap under average conditions, Brown & Sharp (type) indicators that don't repeat. I bought a grinding vise years ago in the 80s and it was off .002 // and L. Center 'vee' was the same. Fortunately it was too hard which was perfect for the vise. I ended up 4-5 hours work or whatever regrinding every surface within about .0001 and all was fine. Damn $100 vise blank lol. Someone tell N. Korea the shortest way for aiming nukes at America is West ;- )
Interesting. I ordered an Imperial set form these guys:
www.ebay.com/itm/323386942250
It was also Chinese and came in the same case but it was certainly not the same manufacturer. I can see slight differences. I was really impressed with the quality I got for $50.
-The MT3 was perfect.
-The only chips I saw, showed up after putting a collet in and tightening then loosening. The fit was so tight that a hair-like chip came off the threads or the edge of the collet nut and off the threads inside the taper after I took it out of my mill.
-The finish on the collets wasn't perfect but it was better than these.
-In the back of a couple of the collets, it appears that they were cast before machining and that they were just a bit short on the amount of steal in the mold or there was some air or something but this was only cosmetic.
-One of the colets looks a bit non-concentric in the back but I didn't measure it because there was no perceivable run-out when I put it in the mill and cut with it. So, this may be an optical illusion.
I might order v-blocks or something else a little less ctirical from Bang-good but the prices there are just too low to expect precision or accuracy at the levels that most machining requires.
That s interesting. I think that the sets that Banggood sells are rejects that somehow got back on the market.
@@Rolingmetal
lol
Wouldn't surprise me. It also wouldn't surprise me if "banggood" means "Amercian's suck dick" in Mandarin.
They just love to counterfeit.
When vaping on mechanical box-mods was popular, there was this popular one called the Cherry Bomber which said "fuck all cloners" across the front. It was about $200. You could get an identical one for $50 from China. lol
They have no shame.
You might want to pick up a Starrett 670A or 670B for your dial indicator for you checking your inside runout. www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/670A You can find them pretty cheap on ebay or amazon.
Enjoyed your video, thanks.
those little red Starrett boxes are to rich for me, besides I think mr. Pete bought them all :) That crappy Chinese one is good enough for me. Precision is over rated!
That squeek your lathe made makes this unwatchable...
The fact that these collets aren't very good isn't a surprise. The fact that bangcrap seems to have picked a particularly bad set to send out for review, is! I certainly wont be buying from bangshit. All Chinese sellers send out the same stuff, from the same warehouses, made by the same factories, so it's not the quality of bangood products that puts me off them, it's that they are obviously that stoooopid!
mmmmmmmmmm! but you know what they say, you get what you pay for, still, you have got some half made stuff you can work on! : (
I went thru the same shit with that China crap. I had to machine my r8 taper collet tru to my bridge port.then the collets came in and a .500 collet won't hold a .500 gauge pin it's to small.lol..
They are so bad that it is almost funny. I now believe the stories that these are rejected collets and chucks that are being sold on the international market.
@@Rolingmetal That makes sense..
this is a racist xenophobic post #asianhate and so i will report it as Hateful or abusive content>Promotes hatred or violence. there are several chinese manufacturers with different qualities and different price-technology entry points and you can always tune your setup with proper calibration
I would have been very dissappointed, i am sure you were too
the B is for BARGAIN.
MSC has better stuff and not that expensive.
tool temple,, I like it
Join the congregation and come pray at the alter of the tool gods.
There not metric there imperial if there like the crap i got off banggood
This is not good reaction, this is hat to chines machins and pepoel. Eu tools is very defect manufacturer iquals chine...
Hi thanks for the informative information on the collets. may I ask where you are situated, it appears you may be in WA, if so, please contact me thanks. Cheers Harry
Hi Harry, Not sure what WA is but I'm somewhere in the north of the Netherlands
@@Rolingmetal WA stands for Western Australia. I am very keen on lathe work since I retired. Your information is extremely informative and helpful. I originally come from Maastricht, but that was in 1952 when we left. Just thoughts you were in my region by what you said. But I would like to continue with our contact, especially if I have a problem I will have someone I can ask. That is if you don't mind. I don't know if I am permitted to put my email address here, so I will wait till I hear from you further. ( Also our state abbreviation is WA, which also stands for "Wait Awhile" as we are the most isolated city in the world I believe.) Cheers Harry
I still speak dutch and Limburg, but I noticed your English is very good. You say you are in the North, does that mean Friesland. Cheers Harry.
Interesting. 1952 , you must have been a kid when your parents moved. Lots of people moved to other countries in the years after the war. And I believe Australia was among the favorite countries to go to. You got any wild fires over there in WA? The horrific images from down there have been on the news over here pretty much daily. Anyway, you are free to ask any questions, who knows I might have the answer :) But I do consider myself a novice when it comes to machining.
I speak Frisian most of the time. So I am from Friesland close to the city of Drachten.
LOL....what the heck are you proving?.....That the chuck runs out, and the collets too, is probably beyond a doubt given that it's an "economical" solution to your work holding. So, if the tool in the chuck has a run out of .04mm then you have a cutter that is .08 mm bigger than it's rated size. if you are into CNC then that is the size you set in your tool register for that cutter size. If you are using it on a manual mill it's no contest as you will be testing the dimensions you cut all along the way as you normally always do and the cutter is just another cutting tool in your inventory. Once you regrind the cutter on the flanks you will have a different diameter anyway. No sense in bemoaning.....constantly.....that Chinese tooling is crap. Who needs high precision high costing tooling for hobby work on hobby machinery. Get real.
You get what you paid for. Don't buy cheap crap. Goto Maritool and get some quality tools. Problem solved. And they aren't that expensive. American made to boot.
I wouldn't mind having a set of Maritool collets.
www.maritool.com/Collets-ER-Collets-ER-Collet-Sets/c21_56_22/p32/ER-32-COLLET-18-PIECE-METRIC-SET/product_info.html
But they are 6x as expensive as a 19 piece Banggood set.
That's a lot of money for a hobby wannabe machinist like me.
LOL..what do you expect....why even bother trying these.. have you ever had anything made in china which is good quality..????
The B represents the threaded hole for a drawbar. An ‘A’ version will have a tang for a lathe tailstock
Your Monty Python reference was not lost on me ;)
Great movie :)
What was it?
I never get tired of these cheap tool reviews. I'm always trying to squeeze every possible dollar out of my tool budget, and it's good to see someone else doing the same thing...except with machinist stuff.
These are definitely not cheap considering what you get :)
Christ your lathe is an ear murderer for headphone users
Sorry about that :)
At higher speeds it becomes perfectly acceptable, especially since I got my new VFD.
The old VFD would have blown your head of clean!
ua-cam.com/video/gL1G8DLfzJI/v-deo.html
Rolingmetal haha it's alright great videos otherwise
Unless your a dog lol
Just found your channel! Howdy neighbor ! Good to see there is some metalshop activity in the Lowlands!
These cheap ER collets are a menace ! They are truly a waste of money.
This video just confirms what is generally know about these things.... it's good to have it pointed out again though...
Paddy (from Flanders!)
Good quality collets are precision machined, then deformed outwards before hardening, clamping to size, & final grinding. So it is not uncommon to find a collet is "oversize" when not clamped. This is done to make inserting & removing stock easier.