Multiple Exposure Star Trail Photography with Mark Wallace
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- In this episode, Mark Wallace explains the steps involved in creating “star trail” photos. Mark breaks down the gear you’ll need, options for required software, and the best camera settings to use. Star Trails are fun and simple to shoot. Once you have your gear and camera set up, you can repeat the process in as many different places that you wish. You can even shoot star trails in areas with high light pollution!
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING!
Thanks so much Mark for this video. Fantastic explanation :)
Thank you!!! A few nights ago I attempted to take some photos of comet Neowise. In my area it's hard to do because of all the light pollution. I finally found a good enough spot but still had a hard time seeing it. I thought about a long focal length lens but since I was having a hard time seeing it I decided on a wider angle to make sure I got. With using Stellarium and a wide angle I captured it. It sure helps to know where you need to point the camera. Thanks again!!!
Thanks Mark. Glad you added the bit from Gavin at the end. Hope you will be out of isolation soon! Cheers.
Very informative Mark. I have been doing some research about star trails and finally I am going to do my first shot this weekend. All the videos I have watched have been very helpful but you are a hell of a speaker, concise, and to the point. Correct me if I am wrong but another factor for star trails is making sure we do not have a moon and of course clear skies. Keep up the good work…!
Thank you for this video I have been wondering on how to do this so will be giving it a try here in the uk at some point.
Thanks Mark! Just this morning I was wondering if you were still stuck in that apartment. It appears so.
PhotoPills will be my next app purchase. I've had good luck with Stellarium for years, but having another photo app can't hurt. As I'm not a fan of subscription based programs (Photoshop, etc) I've used StarStaX with great success.
I'm eagerly awaiting the PhotoPills/Ian Norman Perseid's class, on the PhotoPills youtube channel, that starts in less than an hour. Hoping it isn't an hour long PhotoPills ad though.
Hang in there! Some day you'll be able to walk the streets once more.
This was very interesting. Thanks for all the good information. I have done night sky photography, generally using astro-specific CCD cameras, but I want to up my game using DSLRs. I am taking a trip to the East Side of the Sierra Nevada in California next week (where the skies are very dark) and will put some of this into practice. I should be able to do some very nice star trails and other imaging. Again, much thanks.
Really like when you involve other photographers in your video.
That was awesome!! Thanks so much!!
I’ve shot star trails with my Olympus OM-D M5II. Sooooo much easier than any other method, and the results are simply amazing. Thank you for plugging Olympus and their amazing ambassador Gavin Hoey. The process can be set up in just a couple of minutes.
This is a great video to pique an interest in Astro photography
I just did a star trail 2 weeks ago lots of stars and very bright
Gotta try this.
So much to learn! Thanks for the breakdown on how to accomplish this. I look forward to trying it out! #CreateNoMatterWhat For everyone that wants a great photo community come on over to Discord and @LastXwitness and @AdoramaXP and join the discussions!
Great video Mark, as always! Please reply from an earlier comment on how you got such wide star trails. Also, I noticed yours were extra colorful and multi-colored. Maybe this could be another video, but please describe how exactly you used PS to get such a nice result!
Very cool, must try it
Hey, wonderful video, very detailed and helpful! I was just wondering if you guys had a playlist grouping all the tutorials related to astro (star trails, milky way...)?
Good sir
Thank you, Mark! I've done these in the past, and have been a StarStax user for years. But... I appreciate the info on the Case Relay stuff. I searched for it as Adorama, and they have a "bundle" for most camera systems with the Case Relay, the cables you need, and an extra battery, typically for about $180. (Nikon version, for example, at www.adorama.com/ttcrups110d.html ) This is handy for lots of things, including astrophotography. I also purchased Astropanel. Cool!
Nice
Thanks Mark. Do you or have you used a Red Intensifier to lower the light pollution? I have been using the Haida I got from Adorama and love it!
For around $40 -- For my A7R3 I use an inexpensive portable power bank (20,000 mAh or greater) with a USB-C cable (USB-C both camera to power bank). Keeps camera shooting timelapse all night.
Hi Mark. I took several images of the comet Neowise, but am having some trouble finding a good stacking program for Mac. I know Star Staks will do trials or "star comets", but will it actually process a real comet as I expect the comet is moving at a different rate than the stars (earth) rotation. If Star Staks cannot do this can you recommend Mac software that will?
This was a great video and very informative. Thanks for taking the time to share with us all.
I liked this video a lot. I ve very basic nikon d3400. Can I do that from my home.. i always had problem in focus. What should be metering mode?
Yes, you can do this with a D3400. Metering mode doesn't matter, as you are setting exposure manually. For focussing, if you are using the 18-55 or similar, put your focus point on the subject in shot (this would be the building in Mark's image). At f/3.5 at 18mm this should give you focus out to infinity as well, if the subject is a good distance away. Once you have set your focus, switch the lens to manual focus mode and be careful not to touch it! I don't know if the D3400 has a built in intervalometer, but these are available quite inexpensively from various manufacturers.
Be aware that the wide angle full frame manual focus M-mount Leica lenses on all mirrorless cameras with an adapter show problems on the corners of the photos (except Leica digital M-mount cameras and Leica mirrorless cameras).
These lenses are designed for film cameras and the angle the light is reaching the micro-lenses above the photodiodes at the corners of the sensor isn't steep enough.
However the micro-lenses above the photodiodes of the sensors made for digital Leica M mount cameras or Leica mirrorless cameras are special. Their photodiodes at the corners of the digital sensor have offset micro-lenses that solve the problem.
Of course that is not the case with all other mirrorless cameras like the Sony a7 III and definitely such camera have issues with Leica M mount lenses of 28mm and 21mm.
Leica M mount lenses with longer than 50mm focal length work fine on any mirrorless with adapters and even an M mount 35mm lens performs good enough at corners.
Owners of wide angle M mount Leica lenses is better to switch to Leica mirrorless cameras.
Mark, what alternative method would you use for Leica SL2/Q2 since Tether products aren't available for Leica?
Not clear why you used the NPF rule to prevent the stars from trailing when shooting for star trails?
I didn't have time to go into that (the video is already super long), but the short answer is that if you use the NPF rule when shooting the individual shots you then have the ability to do other things - stack the photos for a single image, make a timelapse (that's how I made the timelapse intro videos), etc. It's just about options later on.
Wow. Very thorough Mark! 😀
However, you've made a serious blunder with regard to "Shooting Interval" setting. You've mentioned that shooting interval is the time between shots but that is completely wrong. Actually Shooting Interval is the time from the beginning of one shot to the beginning of the next. So, Shooting Interval = Exposure time ie Shutter speed + Time between shots.
You had set shooting interval 2 sec. Instead it should be 17 sec (15+2=17). Perhaps You haven't face any problem because "Shoot. Intvl. Priority" was off.
I don't know about others camera's interval setting but in Sony And Nikon cameras interval means time from the beginning of one shot to the beginning of the next and it's NOT the time between shots. :)
Abdul Hasib Tamim Thanks for that info! I hate it when I get it wrong, but love it when the community hops in to help. Thanks for setting things straight.
@@MarkWallaceVideos Much appreciated sir.
Mark, how did you deal with he light pollution ?
If you are setting the shutter to 15 seconds and require a 2 second gap between images, I believe your interval time should be 17 secs not 2 secs :)
Correct. That's how it works for my Sony.
is it possible to do this with nikon 18-35 f3.5-4.5g ed
Shows that space and stars are not what we have been told they are
Pardon?