Boy 1980s me in shop class was waiting to see the metal sheet fly. Cool deal you got and saw tech is amazing. Lock tite can be heated out but the blue can be twisted off pretty easy. I Agree with the others a second nut to lock the other.and it’ll look like a full size. I worked for a place, that their main diet was gauge rods and not ties. I like it can’t wait to see how it weathers.
yes I had to cut aluminum on a table saw with 10” blade 80 teeth! nice smooth cut! we used a hold down and pusher. yes with the grove in the block it will hold the base of the rail in place. great idea and job implementation of your idea.
I calculated the speed and feed after shooting this video, and it turns out my blade cuts with just about the right amount of surface feet per minute for aluminum.
Put masking tape over your cut area and you’ll find it cuts easier due to the glue of tape acts as a lubricant. A little something I found when doing this when making aluminum inlays for table tops.
Just a thought, and I'm no expert, but when installing a gauge rod and there is a guard rail, shouldn't the both slider pices be on the stock rail? i.e. the inner one fastened in between the guard rail and the stock rail rather than on the guard rail and the stock rail, because with vibration, the slider, (either one) could be displaced due to the guard or stock rail being free to move on the one side.. Otherwise, a great solution to to a frequent problem. Regards, Paul in Cornwall
Most people don't know you can. What I don't like about cutting aluminum on the table saw is aluminum's propensity to grab and kick if you try to feed it too fast.
@MillBrookRailroad it does like to grab. I only really use the tablesaw for aluminum when it won't fit in my band saw. Works in a pinch, but can't say I recommend it.
Brilliant design! I can see an issue looking that you have probably already thought about, but I am going to mention it anyway, just in case. I would cut those threaded rods shorter than your cross ties. If you derail, the wheels will not land on the end of your rods and dislodge them. 😊
@paulsmith5398 it's actually a plywood cutting blade, but the blade's SFPM is on the low end of what aluminum wants to be cut at for that spindle speed. On the low end is still in the range, so I'm happy about it. I looked it up after I edited the video.
Adjusting the track width by knocking the rail is terrible. Nothing is holding the track there. When the rod is installed it keeps the track width in order. I have some memory of real railroads doing the same in, I guess, urgent situations. Do You predrill ties before screwing in them? The small dimension on the ties easily makes them split. I hope You know how to orientate the tie according to the fibers..... Having both a bandsaw, a mini mill and more I think You did very well using that saw. T U.
@Stefan_Boerjesson Glad you enjoyed it! Since I did this video, I acquired a working band saw, and the mini knee mill that wasn't working for this video is now partially working. Now, to get a set of double taper Y collets and an assortment of end mills so I can make some work holding fixtures.
Now that's railroad'n!
You should add a second nut to ends of the rods. This will lock the outside ones in
My track gauge is 1in x 9in with notch s on each end for rail head to fit.
Boy 1980s me in shop class was waiting to see the metal sheet fly.
Cool deal you got and saw tech is amazing.
Lock tite can be heated out but the blue can be twisted off pretty easy. I Agree with the others a second nut to lock the other.and it’ll look like a full size. I worked for a place, that their main diet was gauge rods and not ties.
I like it can’t wait to see how it weathers.
Looking good, great idea. Getting ready for high speed running 🤭
@@MrOmwm A blistering speed of 10 miles per hour!
you might want to add 2nd nuts to the inside as well to lock that side as well.
@peterthornton8520 I thought about that, but I ran out of standard 1/4-20 nuts that day.
yes I had to cut aluminum on a table saw with 10” blade 80 teeth! nice smooth cut! we used a hold down and pusher.
yes with the grove in the block it will hold the base of the rail in place. great idea and job implementation of your idea.
I calculated the speed and feed after shooting this video, and it turns out my blade cuts with just about the right amount of surface feet per minute for aluminum.
One should always use a safety pusher when sawing freehand on a table saw.
Put masking tape over your cut area and you’ll find it cuts easier due to the glue of tape acts as a lubricant. A little something I found when doing this when making aluminum inlays for table tops.
Just a thought, and I'm no expert, but when installing a gauge rod and there is a guard rail, shouldn't the both slider pices be on the stock rail? i.e. the inner one fastened in between the guard rail and the stock rail rather than on the guard rail and the stock rail, because with vibration, the slider, (either one) could be displaced due to the guard or stock rail being free to move on the one side..
Otherwise, a great solution to to a frequent problem.
Regards, Paul in Cornwall
Agreed, and I would also use self-locking nuts (with nylon inserts) because those ordinary nuts will quickly be loosened by vibration.
I have a carbide blade on mine and it handles aluminum no problem
Most people don't know you can. What I don't like about cutting aluminum on the table saw is aluminum's propensity to grab and kick if you try to feed it too fast.
@MillBrookRailroad it does like to grab. I only really use the tablesaw for aluminum when it won't fit in my band saw. Works in a pinch, but can't say I recommend it.
Brilliant design! I can see an issue looking that you have probably already thought about, but I am going to mention it anyway, just in case. I would cut those threaded rods shorter than your cross ties. If you derail, the wheels will not land on the end of your rods and dislodge them. 😊
*looming *
Ummm Shouldn't the 'clip' go between the main rail and the keeper rail, instead of clamping on to the main AND keeper rail?
Yes, but there isn't enough room to get the clip between the guard rail and the stock rail. This was a next best thing scenario.
Good idea to copy the big one😊
If youre using a metal cutting blade, GO FOR IT❗I think ive seen those gauge rods on full size roads........
@paulsmith5398 it's actually a plywood cutting blade, but the blade's SFPM is on the low end of what aluminum wants to be cut at for that spindle speed. On the low end is still in the range, so I'm happy about it. I looked it up after I edited the video.
Adjusting the track width by knocking the rail is terrible. Nothing is holding the track there. When the rod is installed it keeps the track width in order.
I have some memory of real railroads doing the same in, I guess, urgent situations.
Do You predrill ties before screwing in them? The small dimension on the ties easily makes them split. I hope You know how to orientate the tie according to the fibers.....
Having both a bandsaw, a mini mill and more I think You did very well using that saw. T U.
@Stefan_Boerjesson Glad you enjoyed it!
Since I did this video, I acquired a working band saw, and the mini knee mill that wasn't working for this video is now partially working.
Now, to get a set of double taper Y collets and an assortment of end mills so I can make some work holding fixtures.
You can also cut aluminium.
WHERES YOUR PUSH STICK🤔❓ BARE HANDS ARE JUST NOT SAFE OR ACCEPTABLE❗❗❗❗