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How to upgrade the Anet A8 to E3D Hemera and Marlin 2.0!
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- Опубліковано 29 лис 2019
- The E3D Hemera (formerly known as Hermes) is a great extruder + hotend combo at a very reasonable price - so why not put one on the Anet A8? It's a super straightforward upgrade and you get to upgrade to Marlin 2.0 in the process, too!
Thanks to E3D for sponsoring this video!
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Actually pretty cool that you did the upgrade on the Anet A8 since many people started with one and still have one sitting around!
As janky as it is compared to today's printers, it was super a good learning experience.
Yep, mine is completely rebuilt at this point. Did the AM8 upgrade, mosfet, rewired bed, PEI print surface, Prusa MK3S extruder assembly and has been on better and safer firmware since the first week I had it. If you're comfortable with electronics and know how to fix the issues it was the best thing out at the time for the price. I definitely wouldn't recommend it today given how cheap far better printers are today.
I'm still using my A8 but getting annoyed with a few things on it. This upgrade should remove several of those while I continue to look into a Hypercube Evo build.
6yjjk The best 2 things I ever did with the A8 was to do the AM8 upgrade on Thingiverse and replace the H plate under the bed! The AM8 upgrade was easy and replaces the acrylic frame with an aluminum frame. The RepRap Champion H plate eliminated the need for constant releveling of the bed! That little printer became a real workhorse.
@@viru52000 so little of my original a8 was left that i just designed my own printer from scratch
Bought the extruder/hot end, followed your instructions and everything worked perfectly. Thank you…
I like that mounting slots in the Hemera's motor. Great design, well done E3D. Simple and effective.
A8 is actually a very good machine, as long as you assemble it correctly. Of all the printers I've had over the years, the A8 is the one I kept. It's such a simple design that there isn't much that can go wrong.
Everything that can go wrong has gone wrong with mine lol. I got it second hand too. I'm considering changing out the power supply too since the hot end gets cold when anything else is running off the same 15 A circuit. Any one else have this problem?
@@alexklausenstock3974 same here only part that hasn't grenaded itself was the stepper motor and heated bed. I decided to retire mine after the frame begin to walk
It's crazy to come back and look at these videos years later.... a friend bought a pair of them right after they came out, they're both still printing well, almost daily, with a few mods. The biggest thing he's done is a couple of bearing replacements, and changed them a few years ago to a slightly better board.
I just gotta say you do some of the best detailed videos on the net. Thanks for all you do and unbiased advice. Cheers
Thank you Thomas! After I watched your video couple days ago. I bought one of those! Ender 3 Pro turned into $1k printer! At the moment, I am printing RC truck tire (TPU). 0.5 retraction, 70mm p/sec, no fan (experimenting) whatsoever and no stringing!!!! Yes, there is tiny amount of ghosting due weight from Hemera but can ben compensate with Linear Advance etc.
glad you're satisfied :)
I like how the upgrade costs more then the entire printer lol
If you upgrade every part of the printer.. is it still the same printer 🤔
@@johnbouikidis6317 Theseus 3D printer :D
@@johnbouikidis6317 My grandfather's axe...
how to uprade a hotend to a priner thats the same price. lol
I like to think of the A8 as a template guide to show you where to put good parts :)
How to upgrade the printer that requires to upgrade everything.
they are not same price Printer is almost half price of the hot end :D
When it improves the printer massively, then it's almost worth it.
@@campiosa exactly the A8 is a hobby for those that like to tinker. the biggest improvement I have experienced was printing some belt tensioners. And ofcause do all the safety upgrades. I'm planning on upgrading to a Duet board to reduce the noise from the steppers(And no money wise it does not makes sense but it's a hobby)
Is it possible to add a BLTouch to the mount? If so, I will buy me a Hemera direct drive.
Wow, A8 on Tom's 3D, thought that would never happen
If I remember correctly,, you have to heat up the hotend for tightening the block and nozzle up to 250 or 275C
Details can be found on E3D WIKI
I am screaming at my computer for you to peel the paper off the acrylic.
Total time spent assembling the A8 - 5 hours, time spent peeling of the paper of the acrylic , 3 hours ... I`d say he saved quite some time ... i know i hated myself for starting to peel of the paper and seeing how UNPEELING it was ...
Peeled a printer once, will never peel one again. If it comes with paper on acrylic parts, that paper is not coming off.
I tried that with the spool holder that came with my Anycubic i3 Mega back in the day. I managed to tear the tiniest sliver of paper off one corner, then called it a day. If it's a plastic film over acrylic, it comes off like a dream. If it's paper, it lives there.
I don't even have the acrylic frame any long. Went to 4020 extrusions and linear rails. Doesn't even look like an ANET any longer. I call it my Frankenstein printer.
@@MadeWithLayers I peeled mine before assembly, that way it came off clean and quick. Then a few months later upgraded to the AM8 Aluminium frame. Still works like a charm.
Thomas Salamander is best source for good information.
Well it took longer than i though for the name change. E3D is a fantastic company but the Hermes brand is know for their extremely superior quality and unbelievable outrageous costs. YES E3D is amazing, but it is no Hermes.... Now i love them and have ordered one yesterday straight from E3D to go onto the Ender 3 Pro with the 3DFused complete linear rail kit and Skr mini E3 board.
Tom if you can do a video on the Ender 3 Pro with this hotend that would be amazing, Love your content and have been following you for just under a year. Keep up the great work, and look forward to your next video.
I agree, I ordered one yesterday for either my Ender 5 or Ender 5 Plus. Want to see how it works before getting more.
I upgraded my A8 by replacing it with a MK3s and I'm very pleased.
5/5 would recommend
lol
Review on the extruder Tom!
5:43 Yeah, but would it severely under-extrude and have the temperature be off?
Edit: Oh, neat! The video changed so this comment no longer makes sense. IGNORE ME
Just keep in mind that it would severely under-extrude and the temperatures would be off.
😇
Is it possible to change video these days without reuploading?
Fan Duct: FanV2.stl in this package -> thing 1620630 - Sorry, it seems to be not allowed to post the complete link
Anet A8, is like that secondary character in hero movies, but makes an appearance in every single one of those movies.
Thanks for this, i have a heavily modified and made safe anet a8 with a e3d v6Lite so this looks like a really good upgrade for me
Mount the A8 on a stable surface. Stabilizing the frame. Get an ATX power supply and modify it to work on the A8. There are several vids on yt that show how it is done. They can be had for cheap.
Go to a bowden setup to remove the weight on the x carriage.
Fasten the bed wiring on one of the bed levelling screws and run the wires up to the top of the printer to eliminate wire flex stress as well as eliminating the connector flexing.
MOSFETS are necessary and inexpensive besides being easy to install.
These are what I have done and I know they work, going on 2 years of printing nearly every day.
But, of course, your mileage may vary. 😊👍
So is the extruder any better than the stock one? Can we see some print comparisons?
great, - so that was the reason for the A8 build :) , good job.
Can you add the file for the fan duct too please?
No mention of part cooling duct part?
Thank you for this video Tom. Been trying to find some good upgrades lately.
Is there a link to the part cooling fan shroud somewhere?
I also would like to get a link to this shroud
Think this would be a good upgrade for an ender 3 pro over the factory hotend/extruder
I want one for my Tevo Tarantula Pro. Hopefully Matterhackers will get it in soon.
Anyone have a link to the part cooling duct used ?
FanV2.stl in this package: thing 1620630
My CR10S is getting one of these, for sure.
This is so stupidly overkill for an A8 and I love it!
Hemera? Seriously? But they already have Chimera, which sounds quite similar.
Anyway, great hotend. Will definately install it on my large 1x1x1m printer I am going to build soon.
Hey, we went for Hemera as it is still in line with our theme of mythical Gods and doesn't sound too dissimilar to Her**s, the closeness also made a complete rebrand in less than 24 hours possible :)
Thanks, looks like a nice hotend.
Seriously, I am going to dust my old Anet A8 and do the upgrade :) thanks for the tutorial :)
Serves to check if the screws mounting the bearings on the x-axis are long enough for the 3D printed mounting plate. Sadly the screws that came with my ANET are not long enough :(
A really great video, thanks. I think some before and after print quallity comparisons would have validated the video more than just fulfilling a sponsorship. I have a few printers and the A8 (now AM8) is one of them and I would consider this hotend for it, so getting an idea of the difference it might make would have been good.
please put one on the cr-10 V2 and make a video about it PLEASE !! because i believe this hot end is one that can print up to 285 deg so i can print nylon or ABS !
From my experience I've found it's not entirely necessary to remove the white JST connectors from the board. Most dupont connectors will fit right in without issue. Also the contacts in the dupont connectors are usually the same as JST so they can just be transplanted into the original plugs :)
Awesome upgrade to this printer all the same. I'm still rocking my upgraded AM8, but have moved on from the stock board.
Wow 🤩
You have a nice camera, sir. That shirt is awesome!
Of course I just bought a Titan Aero for my i3 and now they come out with this Hermera. What's better about this than the aero?
I tried your firmware, And it has some issues.
1. SDCARD_CONNECTION is commented out and is set to LCD, Should be defined ONBOARD.
2. My X direction needed to be inverted, 0 was on the right.
3. My extruder was also reversed, But I am using a Prusa x carriage.. So I might just deserve that one :)
Anyways, thank you so much for your work, It was just enough to get me to flash new firmware and properly set this machine up finally. If you want me to share it after my changes lemme know, Just keep in mind the e-steps and probe to nozzle offset need to be corrected for any configuration other than mine :)
Will u do a how to upgrade the Raptor 2.0 too ? pretty plz
I second this one, I have a raptor 2 with a Bondtech, but I was planning on redesigning the mounts and would rather work with this extruder for the redesign. Problem is, I am awful with the firmware set up.
Like the video would Love to put one of the Lulzbot Taz6, like the name must have had some clout to make them change the name.
when i installed my hemera i forgot to put on the silicone boot. when i would print and it got up to the layer the part cooling fan kicked up into high gear it would cool the heater block and trigger thermal protection. it had me confused for a bit until i seen the boot still in the box.
I am using Prusa MK2S extruder on my anet8 (AM8)... I made some changes, like 12mm leveling sensor mount, or distance between rods .. anet have 46mm, prusa 45mm
Awesome upgrade! Thanks.
my 2nd printer was an anet a8. i just got an ender 3 pro for 200 bucks and think ill get another one of those before fixing the a8.
Hi,
I have Anet A8 board Melzi 2.0 v5. display anet LCD 2004 tell me how to flash and where to get the firmware! thanks to all
hello , I buy new Anet 8 , but When the initial operation, the extruder is directed to the opposite side to the end and continues for a while the engine rotates even when the extruder reaches the end ... The same applies to the surface ... Also, the z direction motor works one and the other does not work .. Note that I almost checked the connections All are correct, What is the problem??!! ...
1
Did you get your t-shirt at ERRF?
Sure did!
Hallo Thomas... erstmal ein dickes Danke für deinen tollen Kanal. Für mich einer der Besten in diesem Bereich.
Ich bin derzeit am Umbau/Neubau meines alten Craftbot+ und will (sobald wieder verfügbar) den Hemera (Direct) einsetzen. Kannst du mir eine Empfehlung bzgl. des Part Cooling Fan geben? Welchen Adapter nutzt du und welches Design ist deiner Meinung nach das Beste, um dem Luftstrom optimal an das Bauteil zu bekommen?
Hello Thomas ... first of all a big thanks to you for your great channel. For me one of the best in this area.
I am currently converting / building my old Craftbot + and want to use the Hemera (Direct) as soon as it is available again. Can you give me a recommendation regarding the Part Cooling Fan? Which adapter do you use and which design do you think is best to get the airflow optimally to the component?
whats the deal with the packing papers stuck to the acrylic frame? too much of pita to remove or protective?
Please post a video or the mount for the raptor it’s an amazing machine that does not get much love
I agree and would also like to see this on the raptor 2
Hemera on mk3s makes sense?
We'll be releasing an upgrade guide in the next week or so :)
Why should I purchase this nozzle to replace the original one?
Improved print quality and extruding that won't slip even on flexible filaments. Is it worth it on a printer like this... Probably not.
Would love to know your opinion on if its worth it to upgraded the prusa i3 mks with it?
i would love an upgrade for the prusa mk3s. (with mmu2s)
Hi Phillip, we will be releasing an upgrade guide in the next week or so.
Are there guides on how to install the Hemera firmware and hex file? thank you
Hi Tom,
Can you make a video where you install the Hemera on your prusa mk3s. I don't find anything like that on the net... Thanks!
I love to put this on my T-rex 3 with supervolcano to get 350-380C.. since Raptor 2 is same company but I'm not sure if the R2 has different mounting from the T-Rex3
Subed, sorry for not earlier, could have swore i did, you've helped me for years now :)
I like that you’re showing how the lowly A8 can be upgraded. From a diff perspective of the A8 status quo upgrades it seems the web has done what ones do you recommend if any? Your vid here looks like your a8 is pretty stock outside the hermera and some auto leveling mentioned. Marlin and hot bed wiring safety aside...anything else Thomas would recommend I.e. belt tensioners, cable chains, etc?
Are you able to advise whether this would work the same way with the A8 plus? I'm constantly struggling to find any guides on upgrades for it, and am still very much learning, so I'm afraid to mess things up!
I'd like to see a conversion for the TEVO Tornado using the stock parts cooling fan and an option for the BL Touch.
why didn't you take the brown tape off your printer parts?
ooooohhhh raptor mount???? do you have one what was your experience?
Yes please show your raptor 2 with this
Ordered!
Fan duct, please!
Any plans to test the Trianglelabs Dragon hotend ?. Seems to be interesting design a derivative of the Mosquito hotend.
Your CRAZY and I absolutely love it 😂
Quick question, can this have a volcano hotend put on it?
Hi Eric, absolutely, Hemera is compatible with Volcano and SuperVolcano.
how is this an upgrade?what are the benefits?
It has the extruder and hot end together - supposedly no way for the filament to escape. They advertise it as being able to print any filament at top speed. I'm more interested in having no problems with putting down PLA - no jamming and no bowden tube.
Are you going to do a video on a Prusa MK3S ?
Bought it as soon as it was available. Should I add it to a cr-10s pro or a chiron with a 1mm nozzle(with a volcano)?
where did you a upgrade the Anet A8 to Marlin 2.0?
Are you able to build one with the spare parts? If so, what upgrades do you recommend?
whats the before and after for print quality like?
Is the Hermera heat sink as efficient as the E3D V6 round heat sink? I like how nice and compact everything is but I just can't see that heat sink being as good. Converting my A8 over to the E3D V6 hot end made a world of difference quality wise...I would hate to go backwards with the Hermera. I have an AM8 frame that I put together for my A8 but haven't migrated the parts over yet. I'm thinking on building that as a 2nd printer instead. I was thinking on using the threaded E3D V6 heatsink with a Nimble remote extruder but it sounds like E3D wants to move more in the Hermera direction.
I own an A8, it was my first printer, but it's kind of crap, and I recently broke the heater block, I'd love to see a video on just upgrading the A8, like adding this new hotend, a completely new board, Pinda bed leveling, a better bed maybe, build tack bed and all that jazz.
Or another idea, turn the A8 tech into say a giant 3d printer
dvanw6 I dismantled my A8 and reused all components for my Hypercube Core XY build
I just received my E3D Hemera the other day. Since you used Marlin 2.0, I think I am going to change the Anet board to the SKR v1.4 Turbo with TMC 2208 stepper drivers in UART mode plus their TFT35 v2 touch screen . Since you are a 3D printing guru, my question is, using the Marlin firmware that you have done for the A8, (thanks for that), what changes are going to have to be made to Marlin in order to use the SKR board with the new touch screen and stepper drivers? Or, if anyone else could help me out with these changes, that would be very much appreciated as well.
can i use an skr mini e3 v2 or v3 for my anet a8 did you know if they have a firmware for that
I really wish there was more progression happening right now in the 3d printing world!
Where did you get that Shirt? I need it.
Marlin merchandise can be found at shop.spreadshirt.com/luu-lac/marlin+2.0+-+for+all+the+boards!?idea=5d33b2631cbf3a0480fb345c and all proceeds go directly to supporting Marlin firmware project maintenance.
where can i download the fan duct used with the hemera extruder?
Its not £90 actually £108+shipping ... Anet A8 is about £69.99 and Free Delivery :)
Can you do an upgrade guide from a 8bit board like ramps to an 32bit board like the skr or mksl?
Tom: What about the Prusa Mk3s.. I can't find anything anywhere about a mk3 conversion on E3D website, Prusa's website or either forum. Surely you must be able to fit this to a Prusa!?
Hi, we'll be releasing an upgrade guide for the Prusa MK3 next week :)
Can you use marlin 2.0 in a non 32bit board?
can you use the Hemera on the ender 5 plus ?
I hope so, I just ordered one for mine
@@woodwaker1 fingers crossed, keep me updated please. If it works I will order too. Thanks bro.
@@earthequalsmissingcurvesqu9359 I have no idea when it will arrive from England. I still have to figure out where and how I will get filament to it. This will be replacing a SeeMeCNC extruder and a MicroSwiss hot end. I let you know how it works
Which fan duct was used?
any suggestions on what 3d printer i should get to get started?
So 2.0 is available for 8 bit boards too? Asking for a friend
Yes, 2.0 has a hardware abstraction layer that allows it to run on new and old hardware - including classic 8bit boards
How do I install the hex file onto the anet a8?
Tom, you suggested that Anet A8's sometimes don't have a bootloader. Often no bootloader can be mistaken for the bootloader using a nonstandard communications data rate. :-( If you find the boards.txt file for your board, you can change that data rate. The configuration in question is something like this: "sanguino.menu.cpu.atmega1284p.upload.speed=57600" Arduino likes 115200. I've seen A8s (my was one of them until I re-burned the bootloader, that communicated at 57600. This is painful.. If you have a spare arduino, it's probably just as easy to update the bootloader.
The Arduino IDE and several other programs use avrdude (or avrdude.exe on Windows) to communicate with and program the target board. You can use avrdude from a Terminal/Command Prompt to find the correct baud rate by experimenting with the -b switch.
It will get "timeout" errors for incorrect baud rates or report the AVR chip info when correct, e.g.:
$ avrdude -cSTK500v2 -pm2560 -P/dev/cu.wchusbserial1423130 -b115200
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.08s
avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e9801 (probably m2560)
avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (E:FF, H:D8, L:FF)
avrdude done. Thank you.
Good point, @@anthonyrich1592 . And, if you're looking to see the exact command for avrdude for your configuration, in the Arduino IDE File>Preferences, check the Show verbose output during compilation and upload boxes. You can see all of the detail of what the IDE is doing. The -b switch is likely what you need to adjust.
Awe come on, I just got a Titan Aero a few weeks ago lol. Upgraded my Wanhao I3 with it.
It's still amazing
I just got one for my Folger Tech 2020 i3 lol. Got that and a set of 2130 drivers. Haven't even gotten it all set up yet!
how much does the hermes weigh compared to what all the stock stuff weighed?
I had problems unzipping the Hex files, this is not an easy process, so far 6 hours into installing this.