Just what I needed. Thanks for the link to the TY sensor. I don't own a TJ or finding the sensor was concerning but rewatching the video I saw where the link for the correct part was. Thanks again.
@@SimplyMustGo My PSL900 has a switch on the actuator to be installed. I have no video of where those wires go. Figured that switch would let me know anytime the axle is in lock position.
Nice video Matt! I deleted my CAD as well but with a solid axle (same net effect). Great to be rid of a 4WD system that relies on the integrity of a network of small rubber hoses from the intake through the transfer case and back to the actuator in the front diff. An absolute must have mod IMO! Cheers
Nice option. I replaced the 'CAD' side of the D30 when the outer shaft developed a groove around the outer axle seal. replaced it with a donated XJ half shaft as that YJ outer shaft is stupid expensive. Works fine and has for years. Yeah, lost the 4wd light, but fortunately i *some* common sense and know when i've pulled the lever!
i think i got a pic of this truck in nc right around this time it was in the parking lot of an army place ?? maybe i hopped out of my truck and took pics it was so cool
Great video! aside from changing out the sensor for the vacuum hoses on the transfer case what about the wiring plug and sensor at the back of the transfer case? I thought that went to the gauge cluster to control the 4wd light. Excellent video. I have a 1993 YJ
great video. I'm currently building my Jeep and I'm doing the front axle now. I purchased the CAD delete kit and I'm prepared to install but,.... the links to the parts you listed no longer show available.... I need the switch and the wire harness connection.... also the plugs....and lastly, what size wire did you use to carry the new set up to the T-Case? any chance you might know where I can find those parts now? Again great video!!! thanks for sharing your knowledge...
Hey, I just removed the old and installed the new one on my 1994 jeep wrangler YJ.. broke two bolts trying to remove the bolts had to run to Ace hardware and get new bolts and a couple of washers to come back and weld them and two of the old bolts on to the broken bolts.. finally got it all done..now my dilemma is, the driveshaft is off going to the np231j because I am still running marine water hose and I have to weld on some brackets on the frame to keep them out of the way.. anyway back to my dilemma... I rolled the passenger side rotor and it was connected to the axle as it was making the yoke turn..but wait..why is it turning and the drivers side is on the ground..not engaged or moving with it or since it's on the ground .why is everything moving except the drivers side!?!.. any ideas..or is it broken...or stripped ???😮
Any issue with vibrations at higher speeds? I read somewhere that the front shafts weren’t balanced from the factory due to the oem disconnect. Keep up the good content 🤙🏻
I have got a 1988 comanche recently and it has no vacume harness going to the front axle, and no harness going to the transfer case either but 4x4 seems to work, so I recon what I am trying to find out is if there is no vacume going yo transfer is it necessary for it
No this isn’t a locker. This just fixed the two part axle issue. Lockers would go in the differential and lock both the left and right axles together. This is just making the right axle one piece. It still spins independently of the left axle.
Hi Matt, A Quick question..I’ve ordered the CaD vac delete kit plus TJ sensor and the very same connector..is this all I’ll need to upgrade it? My 94 YJ has the 4x4 light on permanently but isn’t in 4x4 B/c I’ve checked by lifting the front tires 🛞 and spinning only one
@@SimplyMustGo Ok great. I replaced the Tcase because the old one was toast and installed a 1992 with only 125k but I’ve heard in some cases the old Tcase vacuum switch stays stuck open and leaves the 4x4 on even if it’s actually in 2WD. So in your video when you’re done installing the new parts on the Dana30 and permanently locked in 4x4, does the new switch electronically engage the 4H when shifting? Sorry for the additional questions this is new to me as I’ve never owned a YJ until last year and trying to understand how everything works in sequence
Does the plug that goes into the sensor on the transfer case come with the kit and do you reuse the old sensor? I don't see any links to the kit you used. Can you provide a link? Great video, seems pretty straight forward.
The links to the kit and sensors are in the description, but the short answer is they do not come together. You have to get the kit and the sensors and plug separately
I watched this video for the cad delete and it was great. Very well done. Funny thing is my light still doesn't work. I never seen the light turn on since getting this yj. Would it be just the bulbs bad in the dash?
I’ve installed this kit and for me the hardest part is the adjustment of the cable to insure proper travel for complete engagement and also disengagement, the latter I believe is what turns off 4wd light, can you Matt or someone else do a video on the cable adjustment? There are two adjustments, one at cad housing and one at engagement handle, this process is critical yet not addressed in video, severe damage could occur if cable not precisely calibrated, help please?
Yeah my 1st time that it failed I fixed it temporarily by just pulling it off and putting the hose clamp around the axle holding it in place then I cut open The bad vacuum housing and had a zip tie accelerator for the long distance What just recently went with a cable actuator
That’s kind of up to you. This doesn’t change anything from the perspective of lockers or open differentials from how it is stock. You aren’t doing anything to the differential, so if you want lockers, or locking hubs or anything else like that, whatever you’d want without this, is what you’d want with it.
So the original idea from Jeep was that "it would improve MPG" It sounded good on paper for the Government, but in actuality had virtually zero impact on MPG. It's why you don't see this same system on TJ or most XJs and it's never been done again. I've noticed no tangible impact on my MPG from doing this.
Hey! Not at all. All this does is basically lock the two section of axel together the same way the other side is and the same way it is on every other Jeep after the YJ. It doesn’t lock the differentials, so it doesn’t change anything driving on or off road. All it does it give you one less thing to go wrong. If the vacuum lines were to fail, then that passenger side axel wouldn’t lock meaning you’d never get any power to the front passenger tire. This way, as long as the transfer case is engaged you’ll get power to both front tires until the open diffs engage.
@@SimplyMustGo I greatly appreciate your time to reply! After battling grinding from a partial (and uninitiated) CAD, I'm excited to finally be rid of this terrible design forever. All the best.
No it doesn't. You still have to engage the transfer case for 4WD. This just connects the the two part axle into a solid axle on the passenger side. It also does not lock the drive and passenger side the way a locker would.
You don’t. This isn’t like a locker where you are locking both sides of the axles together at the differential, it’s just connecting the two part axle on the passenger side to be a single passenger side axel. The same way a TJ or JK out be and the same way the driver side of the YJ is.
I have a 1991 YJ. My plugs are different. All I have is vacuum lines where your plug is. My wires are in the back of the transfer case, and I don’t have a sensor
@@SimplyMustGoi got a 90 2.5 with the same issue and im doing this in a week with a month old pcl replacement in my knee. Do you know of a solution to that vacuum switch problem so I don't have to keep crawling and having to fight to get up and down?
Is there any downside to doing a CAD delete. I read that it turns a chain and wears parts in the T-Case. I would like to do this but do not want to add another issue. Thanks
I’ve had this done for 2 years now and I’ve driven all the to Dayton (9 hrs pulling a trailer) I’ve driven all over on long 6 plus hour trips doing 70mph and I’ve never had any issue. No vibrations, no change in gas mileage. I’ve heard of other people claiming stuff, but I’ve only seen a positive result.
disculpen tiene alguna consecuensia hacer esa adaptacion ? gracias buen video disculpa tengo una dodge ram 4x4 y como puedo conectar la luz de alarma 4x4 porfavor ayudenme
Hi Matt. Subbed. Thank you for doing this video. I have a 90 with 4.7 stroker, howell EFi. We're doing a full resto. The 4wd light was the one thing stopping me from pulling the trigger on this mod. I just ordered everything. Thanks for the links. My question is.... When wirring the extension wires it shouldn't matter what wire goes where right? Polarity is a non issue as long as I follow the same connections on both sides. Ty bro.
Great Video! Does this permanently engage the 4x4? Or can you still engage/disengage just like normal OEM operation? Thanks in advance and again... Wonderful content!
This does not permanently engage the 4x4 you still need to engage the transfer case by switching to 4H or 4L it’s also not a “locker” so your front tires will still spin independently. This just connects that portion of axel which is how the TJs and JK and JLs are normally. It was a weird experiment to have that split axel and it didn’t really do anything helpful.
Doing the cad delete, does it increase drag on the drivetrain? When I put mine in four-wheel-drive, I can definitely feel the extra strain on the engine
Hey Matt! Need your help. I did the cad delete awhile ago and finally just did the 4wd light part. Only problem is my light stays on in 2wd also. Any ideas? Also it’s a 92 yj 4.0 5speed.
Hey! Unfortunately, I don’t have a good answer. I’m guessing it’s either not connected correctly, but I really don’t know why it would be on. I can’t think of a bunch of reason it would be off in 4WD, but not on in 2WD.
It’s actually on in 4wd and 2wd. I threw this question out to some others that did videos like this. Nobody really has a solid answer but said the sensor could be bad even though it’s new.
I had someone tell me doing this could over work the front diff and cause it to burn up just from normal driving. Does anyone know if this is true or not?
Hi, just found this video and was checking for the parts to do it to my 1991 YJ and it looks that the electrical parts doesn't fit to the 1991. Can someone help me with this???
This kit permanently locks the right axle into one piece instead of two. It does not lock the left and right axles together. It’s not the same as a locker, so each side of the differential is still independent.
It doesn’t impact the differential. It’s not locking the left and right axels, it’s only locking the to two parts of the right axel to make it a single Axel just like the left one. (Or just like it is in an XJ or TJ)
@@SimplyMustGo is the front differential locked to the axels all the time ? If not what engages the axels when the transfer case is put into 4hi or 4 lo ?
This doesn't really impact 4x4 at all. This doesn't do anything to the transfer case or the differentials. This just permanently connect the two parts of the passenger axle shaft to make a single axle shaft, the same way it is in the XJs or TJs or JKs. There's no need for a cable since you don't need to turn it on / off. You still put the Jeep in 4wd by using the 4wd shifter and putting it in 4H or 4L. Many people will also just replace this whole passenger side shaft setup with an actual XJ shaft. In my other YJ I'm getting ready to do something similar, by taking the two piece out all together and replacing it with a single shaft.
@@SimplyMustGo when I opened the cad vac on my 92 I noticed that there was no fork and the vacuum connector was capped off. Inside the cad vac housing it was just a straight axle. I'm guessing the PO swapped the axle out with a straight one from a TJ?
@@SimplyMustGo it works now! Turns out it’s a slight mechanical issue at the shifter inside the YJ I ever so slightly pulled a little further back and boom! Thanks Matt! Wonderful video! BTW please submit more of these! I used your video as a template for performing this from scratch from the factory stuff and your very patient and the video was very easy to understand for sure!
No. Not at all. It doesn’t change anything with the transfer case or the differentials. It simply make the passenger side a solid axle the way it is on an CJ, XJ or TJ or JK
@@kurtkesters6043 I’m pretty sure you have to pull the carrier out of the front diff to do the TJ one piece shaft. I think that’s the only way to get the new inner seal in.
Do you mean electrical wires? 14 gauge is probably best. Otherwise there is not other wire for the cad. It removes the need for the vacuum lines or a wire
I don’t really know anything about the dodge, but I’m guess they didn’t use a split axle design so I don’t think this mod would be needed. If they did use one, I doubt this particular part would fit as it was specifically designed for the YJs.
You have done a good job with the video. My jeep is a 1987 basket case , I’ve done away with the vacuum lines. Will the tj transfer case plug fit into my Np207 tc ? Also the only thing I have found in the engine bay is a vacuum operated switch on the fire wall with a vacuum line going into it and two wires coming out from the bottom, one grounded to the fire wall and the other just hangs there? How do I get the wires from the transfer case connected to my dash light? There is no old connector to snip off and nothing to plug into? More than two wires confuses me.. I need to tear my wiring harness apart to find the wires going to the dash? All the indicator light videos and forum jive are for 91 and up yj’s. Any suggestions would be appreciated . Pre 91’s wired differently?
Hey! Thank you. I do believe there are some differences in the wiring. And I really am not an expert on that. So unfortunately I don’t have a good answer. I was able to figure out this project by piecing together several other UA-cam videos and with the help of my brother. I’m sorry I’m not more help.
@@SimplyMustGo hey, Thank you for the reply, and an honest answer.. it seems that my jeep was the first of the wrangler series and is now officially a antique. Most of the vendors are just computer geeks who don’t know what they are selling unless they have a part#! I’m not good at navigating the forums or the internet trying to get any information on my situation but all the info I have looked at is for 91 and above which is different from what I am dealing with as the early yj’s had the np207 tc.. not sure and have not heard yet if that tj switch will work for me as well as the engine bay connector seems not the same. Guess I will have to live with out a light for now. If I find out a solution, I’ll have something to share. Thanks again for your honest reply..
@@jamesking7717 Find the Jeep YJ Facebook Group, they have been super helpful Join the group and post your question there and I promise someone will know the answer.
Great explanation of the CAD Vac delete
Thanks for the fix video buddy. I’m definitely adding this to my list of upgrades. 👍🏼
Glad it helped!
Just what I needed. Thanks for the link to the TY sensor. I don't own a TJ or finding the sensor was concerning but rewatching the video I saw where the link for the correct part was. Thanks again.
You're welcome!
@@SimplyMustGo My PSL900 has a switch on the actuator to be installed. I have no video of where those wires go. Figured that switch would let me know anytime the axle is in lock position.
Thanks a bunch I'll definitely be doing this to my YJ, great video !
You’re welcome!
Nice video Matt! I deleted my CAD as well but with a solid axle (same net effect). Great to be rid of a 4WD system that relies on the integrity of a network of small rubber hoses from the intake through the transfer case and back to the actuator in the front diff. An absolute must have mod IMO! Cheers
Thanks! Yeah it was a much do for me as well! Hope you had a great thanksgiving!
This is great. I really miss my 4x4 light.
Very thorough video, I'm actually about to address this on my Jeep but I have a slightly different approach 😉
Thank you! What will you be doing differently?
@@SimplyMustGo I'll be replacing the split shaft with a one piece chromoly shaft and installing a cover plate.
@@SquareLyfe nice! Yeah that the next level up for sure.
Getting my Jurassic Jeep project started and definitely going to get this upgrade installed. Hopefully, getting my own channel started soon.
That’s awesome! When you get your channel up and running let me know so I can sub.
Nice option. I replaced the 'CAD' side of the D30 when the outer shaft developed a groove around the outer axle seal. replaced it with a donated XJ half shaft as that YJ outer shaft is stupid expensive. Works fine and has for years. Yeah, lost the 4wd light, but fortunately i *some* common sense and know when i've pulled the lever!
Yeah that’s another good option for sure.
Solucion para mi Comanche! ~ Solution for my Jeep Comanche! Thanks amigo!
Good job Mechanic Matt! Now to do mine on my YJ. Yay haha. (Nice shirt)
Haha thanks! Hopefully it helps some people out!
i think i got a pic of this truck in nc right around this time it was in the parking lot of an army place ?? maybe i hopped out of my truck and took pics it was so cool
Nice!! I will do this also to my build! Very informative video indeed!
Awesome! I’m glad it helped!
Insanely helpful !!!
Thanksn
CAD Delete is a must! Great work, Mr. Brodie!
Nice video, socket sizes would be a big help.
89 xj thanks a bunch
Thanks a million!!!
You’re welcome! Hope it does well for you!
This was friggen AWESOME!! So going to do this now...
Yeah. Well worth the upgrade!
Great video man. Well done 👍🏽
Thanks! I appreciate it!
Great video! aside from changing out the sensor for the vacuum hoses on the transfer case what about the wiring plug and sensor at the back of the transfer case? I thought that went to the gauge cluster to control the 4wd light. Excellent video. I have a 1993 YJ
great video. I'm currently building my Jeep and I'm doing the front axle now. I purchased the CAD delete kit and I'm prepared to install but,.... the links to the parts you listed no longer show available.... I need the switch and the wire harness connection.... also the plugs....and lastly, what size wire did you use to carry the new set up to the T-Case? any chance you might know where I can find those parts now? Again great video!!! thanks for sharing your knowledge...
I put the cable system in mine and it’s been in 2 years. Working fine. Is there an advantage to allowing it to disconnect?
I don’t know there is any actual advantage to letting it disconnect since ever since the TJ they removed that system completely so it’s a solid axle.
So when I do this mod, can I take ball looking thing any vacuum lines under the hood ?
Hey, I just removed the old and installed the new one on my 1994 jeep wrangler YJ.. broke two bolts trying to remove the bolts had to run to Ace hardware and get new bolts and a couple of washers to come back and weld them and two of the old bolts on to the broken bolts.. finally got it all done..now my dilemma is, the driveshaft is off going to the np231j because I am still running marine water hose and I have to weld on some brackets on the frame to keep them out of the way.. anyway back to my dilemma... I rolled the passenger side rotor and it was connected to the axle as it was making the yoke turn..but wait..why is it turning and the drivers side is on the ground..not engaged or moving with it or since it's on the ground
.why is everything moving except the drivers side!?!.. any ideas..or is it broken...or stripped ???😮
Any issue with vibrations at higher speeds? I read somewhere that the front shafts weren’t balanced from the factory due to the oem disconnect. Keep up the good content 🤙🏻
I haven’t had any issues with that. But I also don’t take her past about 65
I have got a 1988 comanche recently and it has no vacume harness going to the front axle, and no harness going to the transfer case either but 4x4 seems to work, so I recon what I am trying to find out is if there is no vacume going yo transfer is it necessary for it
It might not be a vacuum system. I think the only ones that did were the YJs
@@SimplyMustGo thank you for getting back with me
Why are we replacing the sensor? Why not just run wiring from old connector on sensor to wiring in engine bay?
Great video, but I have a question: Don’t you tires skip/push when turning, especially on dry payment? Thanks
No this isn’t a locker. This just fixed the two part axle issue. Lockers would go in the differential and lock both the left and right axles together. This is just making the right axle one piece. It still spins independently of the left axle.
@@SimplyMustGo Thank you
Hi Matt,
A Quick question..I’ve ordered the CaD vac delete kit plus TJ sensor and the very same connector..is this all I’ll need to upgrade it?
My 94 YJ has the 4x4 light on permanently but isn’t in 4x4 B/c I’ve checked by lifting the front tires 🛞 and spinning only one
Yeah that should be it, though I have no idea why your light would always be on, so that might cause some weird issues with the light part.
@@SimplyMustGo Ok great. I replaced the Tcase because the old one was toast and installed a 1992 with only 125k but I’ve heard in some cases the old Tcase vacuum switch stays stuck open and leaves the 4x4 on even if it’s actually in 2WD.
So in your video when you’re done installing the new parts on the Dana30 and permanently locked in 4x4, does the new switch electronically engage the 4H when shifting?
Sorry for the additional questions this is new to me as I’ve never owned a YJ until last year and trying to understand how everything works in sequence
Does the plug that goes into the sensor on the transfer case come with the kit and do you reuse the old sensor? I don't see any links to the kit you used. Can you provide a link? Great video, seems pretty straight forward.
The links to the kit and sensors are in the description, but the short answer is they do not come together. You have to get the kit and the sensors and plug separately
What is that sensor originally too? Can't find that one in stock.
I watched this video for the cad delete and it was great. Very well done. Funny thing is my light still doesn't work. I never seen the light turn on since getting this yj. Would it be just the bulbs bad in the dash?
Yeah it could be the bulb is bad. When I got my new YJ (project Emo) I discovered it didn’t even have bulbs in the dash. 🤷♂️
I’ve installed this kit and for me the hardest part is the adjustment of the cable to insure proper travel for complete engagement and also disengagement, the latter I believe is what turns off 4wd light, can you Matt or someone else do a video on the cable adjustment? There are two adjustments, one at cad housing and one at engagement handle, this process is critical yet not addressed in video, severe damage could occur if cable not precisely calibrated, help please?
The kit I installed did not require the cable, it’s an always locked system. So I don’t really know anything about adjusting the cables. Sorry.
Udo u need a vent ? Where u put Allen screw in ..you said was a fill hole
Yeah my 1st time that it failed I fixed it temporarily by just pulling it off and putting the hose clamp around the axle holding it in place then I cut open The bad vacuum housing and had a zip tie accelerator for the long distance What just recently went with a cable actuator
Should you add locking hubs to the front when you delete the CAD Vac?
That’s kind of up to you. This doesn’t change anything from the perspective of lockers or open differentials from how it is stock. You aren’t doing anything to the differential, so if you want lockers, or locking hubs or anything else like that, whatever you’d want without this, is what you’d want with it.
As I understand, with this, the fronr axel is always turning? Similiar to the cj7, this would effect my mpg.
So the original idea from Jeep was that "it would improve MPG" It sounded good on paper for the Government, but in actuality had virtually zero impact on MPG. It's why you don't see this same system on TJ or most XJs and it's never been done again. I've noticed no tangible impact on my MPG from doing this.
On a 93 yj there is no sensor on the transfer case.The sensor for 4wd light is on the cad.There is only a vacuum line switch on the transfercase.
Did you solve that problem cause in a week im facing the same issue. Please get back.
Sorry for my misunderstanding, if we do this then drive on pavement is it bad? This is of course with transfer case in 2wd (disconnected)
Hey! Not at all. All this does is basically lock the two section of axel together the same way the other side is and the same way it is on every other Jeep after the YJ. It doesn’t lock the differentials, so it doesn’t change anything driving on or off road. All it does it give you one less thing to go wrong. If the vacuum lines were to fail, then that passenger side axel wouldn’t lock meaning you’d never get any power to the front passenger tire. This way, as long as the transfer case is engaged you’ll get power to both front tires until the open diffs engage.
@@SimplyMustGo I greatly appreciate your time to reply! After battling grinding from a partial (and uninitiated) CAD, I'm excited to finally be rid of this terrible design forever. All the best.
I should add, I have the posilok 4x4 system. Grinding only started after this purchase.
I was wondering about the locked axle, and turning on hard ground/ pavement etc. you answered that question so thank you !
that crush washer fix does not seal the other end of the bolt?
I am real new to this and not much of a mechanic, But if I bypass CAD does that leave my jeep in 4w always?
No it doesn't. You still have to engage the transfer case for 4WD. This just connects the the two part axle into a solid axle on the passenger side. It also does not lock the drive and passenger side the way a locker would.
Hello, is this kit compatible for the 1990 Jeep MJ?, My MJ has a vacuum sensor on the board, it is not electric like your YJ
Hey! I honestly don’t know enough about the MJ to say.
Can you still shift from 2wd to 4hi while moving after this mod? Thanks for thr video. Trying to decide between this or a posi lock system for my 95.
Yeah. All the 4wd stuff works exactly the same as before. It has no impact on the transfer case.
cheers thanks! Love your videos, given me lots of inspiration and tips@@SimplyMustGo
The question is how do you unlock the axle from the hub with those wheels?
You don’t. This isn’t like a locker where you are locking both sides of the axles together at the differential, it’s just connecting the two part axle on the passenger side to be a single passenger side axel. The same way a TJ or JK out be and the same way the driver side of the YJ is.
I have a 1991 YJ. My plugs are different. All I have is vacuum lines where your plug is. My wires are in the back of the transfer case, and I don’t have a sensor
Do you have the 2.5 or 4.0?
@@SimplyMustGoi got a 90 2.5 with the same issue and im doing this in a week with a month old pcl replacement in my knee. Do you know of a solution to that vacuum switch problem so I don't have to keep crawling and having to fight to get up and down?
Is there any downside to doing a CAD delete. I read that it turns a chain and wears parts in the T-Case. I would like to do this but do not want to add another issue. Thanks
I’ve had this done for 2 years now and I’ve driven all the to Dayton (9 hrs pulling a trailer) I’ve driven all over on long 6 plus hour trips doing 70mph and I’ve never had any issue. No vibrations, no change in gas mileage. I’ve heard of other people claiming stuff, but I’ve only seen a positive result.
Thanks Matt. I just completed the delete. @@SimplyMustGo
disculpen tiene alguna consecuensia hacer esa adaptacion ? gracias buen video disculpa tengo una dodge ram 4x4 y como puedo conectar la luz de alarma 4x4 porfavor ayudenme
Hi Matt. Subbed. Thank you for doing this video. I have a 90 with 4.7 stroker, howell EFi. We're doing a full resto. The 4wd light was the one thing stopping me from pulling the trigger on this mod. I just ordered everything. Thanks for the links. My question is....
When wirring the extension wires it shouldn't matter what wire goes where right? Polarity is a non issue as long as I follow the same connections on both sides. Ty bro.
Thank you. I believe that’s correct.
Thank you for the quick response. @@SimplyMustGo
Great Video! Does this permanently engage the 4x4? Or can you still engage/disengage just like normal OEM operation? Thanks in advance and again... Wonderful content!
This does not permanently engage the 4x4 you still need to engage the transfer case by switching to 4H or 4L it’s also not a “locker” so your front tires will still spin independently. This just connects that portion of axel which is how the TJs and JK and JLs are normally. It was a weird experiment to have that split axel and it didn’t really do anything helpful.
So should I install this on my YJ, my wires are cut there, and I need to replace it anyway, did this work out for you.
I have had zero issues. On road or off.
Doing the cad delete, does it increase drag on the drivetrain? When I put mine in four-wheel-drive, I can definitely feel the extra strain on the engine
No. They don’t do anything to the differentials or the transfer case. So when not in 4wd you will feel no difference.
@@SimplyMustGo I never thought about the fact the drag could be in the t case. Thanks for the reply
Hey Matt! Need your help. I did the cad delete awhile ago and finally just did the 4wd light part. Only problem is my light stays on in 2wd also. Any ideas? Also it’s a 92 yj 4.0 5speed.
Hey! Unfortunately, I don’t have a good answer. I’m guessing it’s either not connected correctly, but I really don’t know why it would be on. I can’t think of a bunch of reason it would be off in 4WD, but not on in 2WD.
It’s actually on in 4wd and 2wd. I threw this question out to some others that did videos like this. Nobody really has a solid answer but said the sensor could be bad even though it’s new.
I had someone tell me doing this could over work the front diff and cause it to burn up just from normal driving. Does anyone know if this is true or not?
Hi, just found this video and was checking for the parts to do it to my 1991 YJ and it looks that the electrical parts doesn't fit to the 1991. Can someone help me with this???
That sensor is made for a TJ so everything will say it’s not for a YJ but it should work from what I understand.
@@SimplyMustGo thanks for taking the time to reply.
Great Video! I replaced everything but the switch is not deep enough to the the TS to activate it, (95 yj 4.0) anyone else had this issue?
Hey do I have to remove the CAD in order to remove my axle to change the U joint?
To be honest I don’t really know. I haven’t had to do that. I assume you might but I’m not actually sure.
Another question, does the kit allow you to connect/disconnect the front axle or is it permanent?
This kit permanently locks the right axle into one piece instead of two. It does not lock the left and right axles together. It’s not the same as a locker, so each side of the differential is still independent.
@@SimplyMustGo Ok, Thanks, excelent video
With the axel on the right locked , how does the stock differential work ?
It doesn’t impact the differential. It’s not locking the left and right axels, it’s only locking the to two parts of the right axel to make it a single
Axel just like the left one. (Or just like it is in an XJ or TJ)
@@SimplyMustGo is the front differential locked to the axels all the time ? If not what engages the axels when the transfer case is put into 4hi or 4 lo ?
i dont understand this, how can u use 4x4 now, the posi lock ones had a cable that actuated it
This doesn't really impact 4x4 at all. This doesn't do anything to the transfer case or the differentials. This just permanently connect the two parts of the passenger axle shaft to make a single axle shaft, the same way it is in the XJs or TJs or JKs. There's no need for a cable since you don't need to turn it on / off. You still put the Jeep in 4wd by using the 4wd shifter and putting it in 4H or 4L. Many people will also just replace this whole passenger side shaft setup with an actual XJ shaft. In my other YJ I'm getting ready to do something similar, by taking the two piece out all together and replacing it with a single shaft.
@SimplyMustGo do you have a locker in this jeep?
@@dizzlerizzle2775 No, not in this one. I'm going to put one in my other YJ Soon. probably a lunchbox locker like a Spartan locker.
How does this affect the street ability
Zero impact for me. I've driven it all the way to Daytona (10 hours each way with a trailer) no issues. Also driven it to Tennessee. No issues.
@@SimplyMustGo perfect then I’ll leave mine alone thanks for the much appreciated info
This can be done without the wiring for the 4wd light correct? Mine has never worked and I dont mind not having it.
Correct. You can do it with that for sure.
@@SimplyMustGo when I opened the cad vac on my 92 I noticed that there was no fork and the vacuum connector was capped off. Inside the cad vac housing it was just a straight axle. I'm guessing the PO swapped the axle out with a straight one from a TJ?
@@_JEBUS yeah that’s a pretty good bet.
Did you notice any drivability issues after doing this on the road at all?
None at all
I was flipping through Facebook marketplace and found your Jeep for sale and completely rotted out..damn dude..wth..did you do to that poor jeep..lol😂
Ha, whatever you found wasn’t my Jeep. Must have been someone else’s. Mine is all nice and pretty in the garage.
@@SimplyMustGo glad to hear it..that one was fubar!!
@@jeffreyrue4569 haha. Yeah. I’m not letting anything bad happen to her. 🤣
Hi Matt,
I just completed the same install you’ve done here but the only thing is my 4WD light 💡 doesn’t come on when I shift. Any ideas?
You swapped out the sensor and everything?
@@SimplyMustGo it works now! Turns out it’s a slight mechanical issue at the shifter inside the YJ I ever so slightly pulled a little further back and boom! Thanks Matt! Wonderful video!
BTW please submit more of these! I used your video as a template for performing this from scratch from the factory stuff and your very patient and the video was very easy to understand for sure!
@@SimplyMustGo yep swapped out the sensor. The original YJ sensor was stuck closed
Does this make the Jeep full time four wheel drive?
No. Not at all. It doesn’t change anything with the transfer case or the differentials. It simply make the passenger side a solid axle the way it is on an CJ, XJ or TJ or JK
@@SimplyMustGo thanks
By the way the indicator light does not work as well but I can tell it is going into 4x4 and back into 2x4
Would that be the same process on a XJ?
XJs don’t need it they already had the solid passenger axle.
Can you still flat tow the vehicle after this delete?
Yes
wouldn't it be easier to just put in a TJ one piece RH axle shaft?
Easier… eh maybe. More expensive, probably.
@@SimplyMustGo wrecker parts :-)
@@kurtkesters6043 I’m pretty sure you have to pull the carrier out of the front diff to do the TJ one piece shaft. I think that’s the only way to get the new inner seal in.
What size crush washer do you use?
Dumb question, what type of wire is needed for this?
Do you mean electrical wires? 14 gauge is probably best. Otherwise there is not other wire for the cad. It removes the need for the vacuum lines or a wire
@@SimplyMustGo right, the new wire used to plugg the tcase switch. Thanks!
That part work for a Dodge RAM 1500 2001?
I don’t really know anything about the dodge, but I’m guess they didn’t use a split axle design so I don’t think this mod would be needed. If they did use one, I doubt this particular part would fit as it was specifically designed for the YJs.
I wondered what that was
When not if that zip tie fails, your new wires are gonna fall right down on the hot exhaust pipe
With this set up is it always in 4 wheel drive?
No, the front axles and diff are engaged however not driven until you shift the transfer case
What is the kit name
The worst you could do to a YJ, vibration all the time, if there is no double cardan (cv) style, better is a possilock, you can make your own
I haven’t experienced that. I drive it all the time and it just as smooth as it was before.
✅
You have done a good job with the video. My jeep is a 1987 basket case , I’ve done away with the vacuum lines. Will the tj transfer case plug fit into my
Np207 tc ? Also the only thing I have found in the engine bay is a vacuum operated switch on the fire wall with a vacuum line going into it and two wires coming out from the bottom, one grounded to the fire wall and the other just hangs there? How do I get the wires from the transfer case connected to my dash light? There is no old connector to snip off and nothing to plug into? More than two wires confuses me..
I need to tear my wiring harness apart to find the wires going to the dash? All the indicator light videos and forum jive are for 91 and up yj’s. Any suggestions would be appreciated . Pre 91’s wired differently?
Hey! Thank you. I do believe there are some differences in the wiring. And I really am not an expert on that. So unfortunately I don’t have a good answer. I was able to figure out this project by piecing together several other UA-cam videos and with the help of my brother. I’m sorry I’m not more help.
@@SimplyMustGo hey,
Thank you for the reply, and an honest answer.. it seems that my jeep was the first of the wrangler series and is now officially a antique. Most of the vendors are just computer geeks who don’t know what they are selling unless they have a part#! I’m not good at navigating the forums or the internet trying to get any information on my situation but all the info I have looked at is for 91 and above which is different from what I am dealing with as the early yj’s had the np207 tc.. not sure and have not heard yet if that tj switch will work for me as well as the engine bay connector seems not the same. Guess I will have to live with out a light for now. If I find out a solution, I’ll have something to share. Thanks again for your honest reply..
@@jamesking7717 Find the Jeep YJ Facebook Group, they have been super helpful Join the group and post your question there and I promise someone will know the answer.
Thanks for your help
Did you ever find an answer to this? I am about to do the same thing on an 1989 YJ. Does the plug connect to your 87 YJ?
Would this work with Dorman Transfer Case Switch 600-551
Unfortunately, I have absolutely no idea.
Yes, it will fit. As will an Omix 18676.15 or Crown J8134473
Your YJ has the 4.0?
No it’s the 2.5
Could have done it without kit
Dude likes his own face way too much