Mid-latitudes of USA, looks like. This design does not really touch on frost heave protection, where footings and slab are better protected from frost.
Depends on the size. Most residential slabs bordered by concrete walls don't need it. In our area, fiber mesh is added to the concrete mix at the plant.
@@internachi he means write down the text of everything said in the video. It's impossible to understand what you are saying the layer is below the termite shield. It's slurred.
Depends on local code. Here we generally use 8" stem wall sitting on an 8" thick by 16" wide footer. These dimensions can vary due to earth substrate, weather conditions, moisture content, and various other reasons. Your local township or county building official will know what your area requires.
how would a doorway be added to this if the bottom of the door is ground level in line with the interior slab? Would I simply raise the stem wall and insulation that's on the interior of the stem wall?
The structure shown in the video seems to be risky. The main load of the building is on the footing frame. This would sink into the ground while the slab is nicely cushioned on the Styrofoam. After a few months there would be cracks developing where the walls meet the floor.
The width of the footing is based on the weight it must carry and the strength of the soil. This is thoroughly covered in building codes and is standard engineering practice, which is why you see this foundation design used on lots of houses, without houses sinking into the ground.
@Brad Olson not by much and with all of the benefits (lower heating/cooling bills, a house that will last twice as long, disaster resistance, etc) I'd say it's a no brainer. Sincerely, an ICF builder
@@Mike_Fortin far better to use hempcrete for the walls, as I plan. I’ve also heard ICF not so great. I don’t know enough currently to agree or not though.
The amount of insulation I've seen needed "requested" under some commercial buildings ridiculous. Theres a building in Seattle that if your in the parking garage and the world catches on fire, youd never feel a change. Literally had feet of xps down there.....not nearly as much as I've seen on roofs but way more than needed.
The purpose of the shield is not to stop them. It is designed to force them to the outside of the wall. When coming up from underground, along the exterior face of the foundation, they are forced to the outside by the shield. In order to get up into the wall they must go over the shield and into the base of the wall. To do this they will become visible on the outside of the shield and can they be eradicated. With a shield it is still necessary to inspect regularly. But it makes the termites much easier to see and consequently to eradicate.
1) Putting slab on foundation is wrong. Soil under foundation and soil under gravel will shrink differently, there will be cracks in places where slab "lays" on foundation. 2) Why would you put so many money into such solid foundation to put a wooden frame house on it? This is overkill! 3) This solution can work only in regions with warm climate. Insulation of foundation is mandatory if you live in region with frosty winter, frost will tear apart concrete without proper insulation. Here is working solution: 1) Do regular foundation for walls. 2) Put sand inside foundation and compact it. Very common solution is use soil that was excavated for foundation, but it depends on soil type. 3) Put special foam tape between foundation and initial slab. 4) Add initial concrete slab directly on the soil. This is protective layer for insulation, no need to reinforce it with steel. Just make it 50 mm (2 inches) tick or a bit more. To make insulation effective, this initial slab must match your foundation level. 5) Vapor protection layer. 6) Insulation. Thickness depends on your climate. I live in Ukraine, we use at least 50 mm (2 inches) . Good insulation is 100 mm (4 inches). Use extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) or regular polystyrene foam (EPS-150, cheaper comparing to XPS and works good for houses). 7) Final concrete slab. Thickness depends on expected load and reinforcement, usually 100 mm (4 inches) and steel mesh (3 mm) is more then enough.
You have a choice. If you insulate under the slab, and also the slab edge, you have already isolated the interior floor from the outside and don't need any other floor insulation. However you can achieve a similar result by doing as you suggested, and insulating the outside of the slab. Both approaches work very well.
It looks like a great stem wall detail - the concrete shoulder protects the vertical section of foam, unlike other applications that have the foam on the outside where it must then be covered or protected from damage and weather.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I literally came back to watch this video again just for the hip jazz track background music.
Nice.
Takes me back to the old weather channel GD 🎺 they get down baby
Exactly what my short term brain needed.
Nice. Ha. Glad it helped.
Thanks. I’d be putting some drainage tile along the outside perimeter as well.
Great idea.
This is really great! I wonder if all that insulation is needed for Florida or GA?
Sure.
Is it OK to all the sole plate 2x6 to over hang the vertical 2in foam board? That does not seem ok.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
The terminte shield? some chemical or plastic layer?
This is great. Any animations with basements?
Yes. Coming soon.
Yes. Coming soon.
@@internachi awesome! It will definitely help me a lot! Thanks 🙏
Many codes will require the poly to be below the insulating board under the floor.
Yep.
Won't the concrete slab crush the insulation foam slab underneath?
Right. That's a good question.
Thank you for sharing!!
John Grimaldi
CMI and InterNACHI Home Inspector Mentor
Orange Blossom Home Inspection
Our pleasure!
I was under the impression that drill in anchor bolts were better than j bolts, is this the case?
Great question. Thank you for watching and commenting.
How deep do you need to excavate on the footers and in the middle? Sorry for the stupid question.
Good question.
It’ll depend on location. Where I live it needs to be 4’ deep min. I’m in zone 6b.
this is perfect, thank you!
Glad you like it!
Please let us know the region where these details a required.
General building practices.
Mid-latitudes of USA, looks like. This design does not really touch on frost heave protection, where footings and slab are better protected from frost.
no rebar in the slab, only in the footing and stem wall? 🤨
Good point and question.
Depends on the size. Most residential slabs bordered by concrete walls don't need it. In our area, fiber mesh is added to the concrete mix at the plant.
How do you form the shelve the slab sits on?
4" mcu stacked on a 8" mcu on top of footings
Good question.
@@internachiyour ‘answers’ to most questions imply overall lack of knowledge of what you’ve shared. 🤷🏼♀️
thank you for your great video, what is the program used for the simulation?
Not sure.
Sketchup
Could you please write down the text or subtitle on movie?
The title of the video is "Slab-on-Grade Foundation With Concrete Stem Wall and Under Slab Insulation."
@@internachi he means write down the text of everything said in the video. It's impossible to understand what you are saying the layer is below the termite shield. It's slurred.
No rebar?
Need that.
What is the layer below the termite schield??
Hm. I'll have to play the video again.
@@internachi lol..Nice! I see what you did there…🤣
Why does two layers of sill seal needed ? The plastic sheet on top of the insulation already serves as a capillary break , right ?
missing vapor barriers under the slab
Right.
Pretty sure it is mentioned
Apparently the people who built our house didn't get the memo about sill seal or termite sheild.
What memo
Which builder is this?
Right.
What is the thickness of the upper portion of the stem wall?
Not sure if there's a max limit on that component dimension.
Depends on local code. Here we generally use 8" stem wall sitting on an 8" thick by 16" wide footer. These dimensions can vary due to earth substrate, weather conditions, moisture content, and various other reasons. Your local township or county building official will know what your area requires.
Why do homes sometimes have interior footings where a wall doesn't exist?
Architect.
how would a doorway be added to this if the bottom of the door is ground level in line with the interior slab? Would I simply raise the stem wall and insulation that's on the interior of the stem wall?
Not sure. Good question.
Good info great video
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I'm gonna stick to the v8 slabs. These turbo slabs give me a headache.
Okay. Right.
Awesome vids!
Awesome. Thanks for watching the video and for replying. For more home inspection videos, please visit www.nachi.org/webinars
id love that with complete thermal break (complete outside insulation).
Okay.
The structure shown in the video seems to be risky. The main load of the building is on the footing frame. This would sink into the ground while the slab is nicely cushioned on the Styrofoam. After a few months there would be cracks developing where the walls meet the floor.
Good point.
The width of the footing is based on the weight it must carry and the strength of the soil. This is thoroughly covered in building codes and is standard engineering practice, which is why you see this foundation design used on lots of houses, without houses sinking into the ground.
This foundation is supposed to be used in one and two story buildings only
Isn't it supposed to be on footing?
Better and simpler to do the stem wall in ICF and better still do ICF all the way to the roof.
Nice.
@Brad Olson not by much and with all of the benefits (lower heating/cooling bills, a house that will last twice as long, disaster resistance, etc) I'd say it's a no brainer.
Sincerely, an ICF builder
@@Mike_Fortin far better to use hempcrete for the walls, as I plan. I’ve also heard ICF not so great. I don’t know enough currently to agree or not though.
Great video man , but music to laud can’t hear you talking properly
Sorry about that.
The amount of insulation I've seen needed "requested" under some commercial buildings ridiculous. Theres a building in Seattle that if your in the parking garage and the world catches on fire, youd never feel a change. Literally had feet of xps down there.....not nearly as much as I've seen on roofs but way more than needed.
Good points.
The music is terrible and distracting. I have a hard time hearing what the narrator is saying.
Sorry to hear that.
Termite shield. Funny. That won't keep termite's out.
I agree.
The purpose of the shield is not to stop them. It is designed to force them to the outside of the wall. When coming up from underground, along the exterior face of the foundation, they are forced to the outside by the shield. In order to get up into the wall they must go over the shield and into the base of the wall. To do this they will become visible on the outside of the shield and can they be eradicated.
With a shield it is still necessary to inspect regularly. But it makes the termites much easier to see and consequently to eradicate.
❤️❤️🙏🙏
Thank you for watching.
1) Putting slab on foundation is wrong. Soil under foundation and soil under gravel will shrink differently, there will be cracks in places where slab "lays" on foundation.
2) Why would you put so many money into such solid foundation to put a wooden frame house on it? This is overkill!
3) This solution can work only in regions with warm climate. Insulation of foundation is mandatory if you live in region with frosty winter, frost will tear apart concrete without proper insulation.
Here is working solution:
1) Do regular foundation for walls.
2) Put sand inside foundation and compact it. Very common solution is use soil that was excavated for foundation, but it depends on soil type.
3) Put special foam tape between foundation and initial slab.
4) Add initial concrete slab directly on the soil. This is protective layer for insulation, no need to reinforce it with steel. Just make it 50 mm (2 inches) tick or a bit more.
To make insulation effective, this initial slab must match your foundation level.
5) Vapor protection layer.
6) Insulation. Thickness depends on your climate. I live in Ukraine, we use at least 50 mm (2 inches) . Good insulation is 100 mm (4 inches). Use extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) or regular polystyrene foam (EPS-150, cheaper comparing to XPS and works good for houses).
7) Final concrete slab. Thickness depends on expected load and reinforcement, usually 100 mm (4 inches) and steel mesh (3 mm) is more then enough.
Speak slowly /carefully essential to pronounce syllables well . Jim
Thank you.
Insulate the exterior of the foundation people. That's the minimum you can do.
Yes.
You have a choice. If you insulate under the slab, and also the slab edge, you have already isolated the interior floor from the outside and don't need any other floor insulation. However you can achieve a similar result by doing as you suggested, and insulating the outside of the slab. Both approaches work very well.
Hope this sticks, basic but useful:
publications.gc.ca/collections/collection_2011/schl-cmhc/NH15-457-1998-eng.pdf
@@HistoricHomePlans wondering, would the floor be warmer though with the insulation under the slab (without in-floor heating)?
Yea at the end your garage will cadt a million dollars 😅
Okay.
What's with that stupid music drowning our what you are trying to say!!
Glad you enjoyed watching the video.
In reality you will not build a stem wall like this too complicated that shoulder is not necessary
Sure looks nice though. ;)
It looks like a great stem wall detail - the concrete shoulder protects the vertical section of foam, unlike other applications that have the foam on the outside where it must then be covered or protected from damage and weather.
Fake
Take
@@internachi Rake