So I ended up here after stumbling on your instagram feed where you defended your station setup by saying check out the full video. So I came here to see it and because it's the internet here are my thoughts 1) I hope you tell someone what route you are doing and let them know when you are done. A garmin in your pocket is nice but if your knocked silly it will be useless. 2) being knocked silly occurs when you aren't wearing your helmet. Don't take it off for "weight" or whatever, you are solo. Safety gear matters even more 3) careful with pre-tying knots on a low angle route. It's a recipe for them to get snagged. Not saying don't do it just be aware 4) your anchor should be two bolts EQUALIZED, I agree with the comment that brought me here, your station is a bit a of clusterfuck. You want both bolts catching your fall not one with the other as backup. 5) maybe it's just your conversation but you should have that bottom tree tie in, dialed in before you start up the wall. Not "well I hope this..." I can go on but I would point out that plane crashes aren't 1 thing goes wrong, they are a series of small mistakes that add up to a big issue. Watching this video I see a series of small issues that each on their own shouldn't be too bad but when you start compiling them could get you into serious trouble. Hopefully you watch your own videos with a critical eye to your mistakes so that. you improve. The fact that you generated enough force to shift an anchor should be a concern, just my opinion. I have been using a R.E. silent partner for years without issue, hopefully you will also have years of no-issues except this one bolt. good luck
I have pinned your comment as I believe it highlights very real concerns and talking points. 1. I had friends bouldering at that same crag and several people that I stayed in contact throughout the day. 2. This is one of very few situations I took my helmet off. Because of the way the alcove was shaped I could not reach the hand jams with it on. The helmet blocked me from reaching high enough. 3. I was also concerned with my backup knots getting stuck mid pitch. I considered a backpack method but ultimately decided the risk was not high enough as I knew the first 2 pitches protected well and I could basically throw a cam in anywhere and rappel. That would suck but would not be dangerous. 4. I am going to disagree with you for now but may change my mind in the future. I have seen maybe people in the LRS community say 2 unequilized bolts is safe. Brent with Avant himself used the same method I did in this video. Yes it looked like a cluster as I had all of my extra shit hanging off the spare rope between the two unequilized bolts. If I did this climb again I would equalize the anchor. if I did a climb with similar bolt hangers and similar probability to take a high factor fall I will equalize the anchor. 5. I will not disagree with you on my tree ground anchor. I need to sit down and decide how I will handle such a situation in the future. I feel good with most tree ground anchors although this particular had me a bit puzzled. Thank you for taking the time to type all of your points out I believe they are important. Most of them I feel as though I reacted as I had to to continue the climb. I knew the risk I took for most of them and felt it was within my risk tolerance. I am still refining my system and luckily comments like your help me pause and reflect on some things I may not have considered.
One strategy to reduce fall factor is to "continue" past the anchor while finishing the pitch. Put a few pieces of pro, lower down to the station. After cleaning a previous pitch you'll end up top roping until you reach a previously installed piece 🙂
My favorite Lead Rope Solo channel, thanks man! I learned and practiced the technique from your instructional video (after reading and watching a ton, yours was the most clear and precise to follow). And then you also have here the first video I found with Lead Rope Solo actual fall on gear. People record and explain LRS but they never fall. And to trust these systems fully, you also need to see how they work in case of a fall, otherwise it almost feels like ropeless "falling not allowed" kind of thing. Much appreciated, take care, man!
The move out of the womb is super stout even with a belayer and a lighter rack in the dry. You looked pretty close to through it before the fall! Ive never done that last pitch, thanks for confirming that choice for me haha
Even though I feel I’m still very proud of how far I got. If you like the way the alcove climbs you should go try crazy critters at boat rock. And yeah I only did the last pitch to say I climbed the full womb.
lol that’s my same fear. I almost always prefer steeper stuff because there’s less to hit if i fall. Although the harder the slab grade, usually there is left stuff to hit, and easy slab I’m unlikely to fall.
@@PitsToPeaks Lol, I'm not missing THAT much 😜 I'm sure I can find more choss closer to home!! 😂 Congrats on still climbing in the wet though - I think there's a lesson there somewhere!! People get too risk averse.
So I ended up here after stumbling on your instagram feed where you defended your station setup by saying check out the full video. So I came here to see it and because it's the internet here are my thoughts 1) I hope you tell someone what route you are doing and let them know when you are done. A garmin in your pocket is nice but if your knocked silly it will be useless. 2) being knocked silly occurs when you aren't wearing your helmet. Don't take it off for "weight" or whatever, you are solo. Safety gear matters even more 3) careful with pre-tying knots on a low angle route. It's a recipe for them to get snagged. Not saying don't do it just be aware 4) your anchor should be two bolts EQUALIZED, I agree with the comment that brought me here, your station is a bit a of clusterfuck. You want both bolts catching your fall not one with the other as backup. 5) maybe it's just your conversation but you should have that bottom tree tie in, dialed in before you start up the wall. Not "well I hope this..."
I can go on but I would point out that plane crashes aren't 1 thing goes wrong, they are a series of small mistakes that add up to a big issue. Watching this video I see a series of small issues that each on their own shouldn't be too bad but when you start compiling them could get you into serious trouble. Hopefully you watch your own videos with a critical eye to your mistakes so that. you improve. The fact that you generated enough force to shift an anchor should be a concern, just my opinion. I have been using a R.E. silent partner for years without issue, hopefully you will also have years of no-issues except this one bolt. good luck
I have pinned your comment as I believe it highlights very real concerns and talking points.
1. I had friends bouldering at that same crag and several people that I stayed in contact throughout the day.
2. This is one of very few situations I took my helmet off. Because of the way the alcove was shaped I could not reach the hand jams with it on. The helmet blocked me from reaching high enough.
3. I was also concerned with my backup knots getting stuck mid pitch. I considered a backpack method but ultimately decided the risk was not high enough as I knew the first 2 pitches protected well and I could basically throw a cam in anywhere and rappel. That would suck but would not be dangerous.
4. I am going to disagree with you for now but may change my mind in the future. I have seen maybe people in the LRS community say 2 unequilized bolts is safe. Brent with Avant himself used the same method I did in this video. Yes it looked like a cluster as I had all of my extra shit hanging off the spare rope between the two unequilized bolts. If I did this climb again I would equalize the anchor. if I did a climb with similar bolt hangers and similar probability to take a high factor fall I will equalize the anchor.
5. I will not disagree with you on my tree ground anchor. I need to sit down and decide how I will handle such a situation in the future. I feel good with most tree ground anchors although this particular had me a bit puzzled.
Thank you for taking the time to type all of your points out I believe they are important. Most of them I feel as though I reacted as I had to to continue the climb. I knew the risk I took for most of them and felt it was within my risk tolerance. I am still refining my system and luckily comments like your help me pause and reflect on some things I may not have considered.
One strategy to reduce fall factor is to "continue" past the anchor while finishing the pitch. Put a few pieces of pro, lower down to the station. After cleaning a previous pitch you'll end up top roping until you reach a previously installed piece 🙂
So I recently saw that suggested on the LRS FB group and I plan to use that strategy on future routes.
My favorite Lead Rope Solo channel, thanks man! I learned and practiced the technique from your instructional video (after reading and watching a ton, yours was the most clear and precise to follow). And then you also have here the first video I found with Lead Rope Solo actual fall on gear. People record and explain LRS but they never fall. And to trust these systems fully, you also need to see how they work in case of a fall, otherwise it almost feels like ropeless "falling not allowed" kind of thing. Much appreciated, take care, man!
That’s Awsome. I’m glad you were able to gain so much from my videos. I’ll have a few more mild LRS videos coming out the next few weeks.
The move out of the womb is super stout even with a belayer and a lighter rack in the dry. You looked pretty close to through it before the fall! Ive never done that last pitch, thanks for confirming that choice for me haha
Even though I feel I’m still very proud of how far I got. If you like the way the alcove climbs you should go try crazy critters at boat rock. And yeah I only did the last pitch to say I climbed the full womb.
Thanks for sharing !!! I like it a lot.
Thank you. It was one of my more memorable trips.
That was gnarly. Subscribed!
It felt gnarly. Only reason I didn’t go for it again.
quite an adventure! I imagine the northside in the winter is coooooold and the seeping face prolly didn't help
Wait until you see the giant sheets of ice fall from the upper headwall. That’s the best winter experience.
More of a sport climber myself but wow that was some entertaining stuff man. I talk to myself climbing all the time too 😂. Good stuff 🤙🏼🤙🏼
I’m super glad you enjoyed it. I need to get back to some sport climbing myself.
Honestly that was wild.
It truly felt like an adventure
What an adventure! Good stuff dude
I almost wish they were all this much of an adventure, almost.
wow man that slab was super wet. not trusting your feet on lead is so scary. great work my friend.
The 5.7 slab scared me more than the 5.11 pitch.
Great video! So gnar dude.
Appreciate it. If only all climbs were that "fun".
Man that was entertaining!
Glad you enjoyed my suffering.
I've really been enjoying watching these climbs around pisgah linville ect.. I think I saw you at Active Augusta a while back
I climbed there for a bit years ago. I mostly miss the owner Adrian.
I've never outdoor climbed but falling on slabs and wiping out on big holds is a big fear of mine.
lol that’s my same fear. I almost always prefer steeper stuff because there’s less to hit if i fall. Although the harder the slab grade, usually there is left stuff to hit, and easy slab I’m unlikely to fall.
I've been in some chossy wombs before, but... Dang!! 😅
It’s still there. You could go have the same experience if you feel like that’s something missing from your life.
@@PitsToPeaks
Lol, I'm not missing THAT much 😜
I'm sure I can find more choss closer to home!! 😂
Congrats on still climbing in the wet though - I think there's a lesson there somewhere!!
People get too risk averse.
That dude in the phone looks like a cool guy
Yeah too bad he doesn’t post much.
Hi Danny, Great video, can't say I love a wet crack, but this looks like a wild adventure. I subscribed so I can see your next escapades.
Most videos will be more tame than this one but thanks so much for the sub!
I've never successfully found that gulley descent.
I’m not to sure I did either. Felt more like I fell down the side of a hill than hiked off.
Wow! Nice job, nothing like a wet slab. Where was it?
Looking Glass, North Side, North Carolian. if your ever in the area go check it out. The eye brows on the rest of the mountain are wild.
Thanks! I’m actually up in Quebec but next time I come down, I’ll absolutely visit your area!
What’s wrong with making climbing friends?
Ha I make friends just about every time I go out. Although the challenge of LRS is always fun.
Should have brought your swim trunks.
Fins and a mask and I could just about swim up the wall.