how to set a boulder: route setting in brisbane - setting a new move? a dynamic double palm!
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- Опубліковано 26 жов 2018
- Welcome to another episode: how to set a boulder.
At the moment niki is in brisbane & spends time setting & climbing at urban climb brisbane
Tuesday he tried to set a double palmbumpjump into a flag... it took him two days to create something similar and it´s dynamic, fast & spectacular!
is it a new move? we don´t know - so far we´ve never seen this combination before - it was hard to set & to climb!
the biggest problem was always the left volume for the left hand. if it is too close to the other volume you always skip the first volume and go straight into a flag jump. in the position right now it felt great for the move - next time we play around with the hold we´re going to.
so much more to discover!
urbanclimbnewstead
www.urbanclimb.com.au
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Magnifi-send!
Good insights, I always feel like I learn something watching your videos. Thanks!
Very interesting video, thanks!!
Where ma urban climbers at esketit btw this boulders great so fun
My gosh. Super weird dynamic moves. What a surprise.. :) Totaly not my style, sadly, but a great pleasure to watch. Couldn`t it be possible to palm the second volume, set a foot on the one after the start and cross to the jug?
greetings from the vertical world ;)
no. we tested it. the second volume is too steep to hold it with your hands :)
really inspiring...i'm sure, there will be some tries tomorrow in the citymonkey bouldergym to reset it.
if you wanna safe time just give me a call ;) see you in march ? enjoy your time back in germany its a lot to do XD
could it be possible to match palms on the first volume and stand up on it? it's hard to guess how good the angle/friction is but it could be a different way to go through
usually yes but over it there´s an overhanging wall - at one of the last scenes you can see the different angles. the overhanging wall prevents the mantle.
cheers :)
I thought about this as well. Also couldn't you maybe grab the flathold (match), go over to the left with the left hand on the lower left volume and then get the right foot on the flathold? Is the lower left volume too bad for this?
@@fritzbox6764 no. because of this we took the screw ons of on day 1 - it´s too step to mantle on it but the depth guarantees enough surface to push on it :)
@@BetaRoutesetting I see, thanks for answering.
don't you get problems with your customers when you continue tweaking the boulder over weeks while they are trying?
hey alex! it was over two consecutive days. so we set on tuesday from 8am - 4pm opened the sector: they could climb it in the old way / try - then on wednesday we finished setting the sector and closed it of for setting for some hours.
it was only 2 days not weeks :)
ist das ein dark side of the moon tattoo?
Ja!