You should cut hole on side with hole saw where current tube sits. Longer tube will stick out on side. Then mount large pvc pipe with cap on opening where glass tube would be expose. Will ensure tube is fully covered and can use same k40 unit for it to sit in.
I have the Cloudray M60 power supply and want to connect it to the stock wiring harness which is for the OMTECH JG-40W power supply. Im moving up to a 60 watt Cloudray laser tube. Can you assist me with a wiring diagram?
@@Martin-ll7jc no.... cause the k40 is 500 bucks or so ... and the k50 or k60 is 2000$ and a tube is 300$ and a power supply another 100$ and if u want a 130W machine be prepared to cash out 10grand.
great vid , thank you. I find my standard K40 loses cutting power in the far right hand corners *furthest away from the were the laser enters the cutting area* I do not know why. any ideas please ?
Darren, thanks for the comment! Honestly, you need to be really dead center in any of the lenses in any position. Don't trust videos that claim that it's ok to be just in the circle of the mirror. It all gets critical when hitting the lens. If you hit it dead center, it works great, if not, you loose a ton of power. Do you know how to set up the mirrors? If not, I'm more than happy to explain
@@vmaxdani wouldnt positioning the laser tube directly in the interior of the machine instead of going through 3 mirrors and jumping directly to 2nd one inside be more accurate and more efficient? sure u lose some space cause ur tube will be on the other side but pros and cons here... would that extra mirror cause some efficiency problems? like trying to bounce laser beam to another angle just cause compact mode?
Question for the more knowledgeable,,, with an upgrade like this would it be better to require it all together to accommodate larger voltage and power with better wires more suited for the increase in current?
@@jeanmanuel6182 Sorry for the Zombie reply but: Yes! Better safe than sorry, right? In a situation like this, the thicker gauge wire wouldn't cost much- that's just what I'd do, just not worth the extra worry with all the others you have when dealing with a 130 watt beast like this. Best to keep safety concerns to a minimum in order to focus on those remaining concerns. 130 watts of non-visible laser power (which can still blind you) is nothing to cut corners with. There may be a reason he hasn't uploaded in 2ish Years =\ I hope it's not because of the laser!
Friend I saw your video I liked it. I will also do the same with a 60w tube. Personnel to show connection diagram H, L, P, G, IN, 5V. Because k 4o has more wires.
Haha @George having a hard time to control the 130W tube in terms of temperature and also beam quality. Think I'll first stick to that one and optimize lots of factors before uprading to an even higher rated tube :D
Who are KH Laser? Where is there tube factory? are they credited tube manufactureres? The simple answer is that this tube is most likely a final test failure from EFR , who are reputable tube manufacturers and will not warrent tubes that fail to meet therir demanding specifications. Once manufactured , a tube cannot be rectified so the only options for EFR are smash it or sell it as a B grade tube for a fractipon of its retail cost. The Kehui Factory that builds thousands of machines for Ebay sale, swoop like vultures on these B grade tubes. They test the power output and check the tube works" in someway" , enough to satify the likely naive end user. Tney then relabel it K H Laser and the fraud is complete.. Tubes fail final test because there small to significant alignment issues with the internal mirrors This causes the power output to be low and the beam to be "blunt" A" blunt" beam will probably engrave because you only need low intesity power butit will be very efficient at cutting. For cutting you need a "sharp" beam. Here is a simple test anyone can conduct to determine if their tube is A or B grade. This vido shows the shape of "sharp and "bluint" beams and how to carry out the test into a block of acrylic.. ua-cam.com/video/naPzFsuvURU/v-deo.html. Good luck. Perfect mirror alignment = A grade "sharp" beam and full power B grade tubes can still measure at 130 watts but if the mirrors are misaligned the beam will be "blunt". That is why A grade tubes are expensive and there are lots of geat "bargain" tubes available for sale on ebay.
Appreciate your Input, however I think you missed one very intersting point/ question: Am I happy with what I did so far? The answer is easy- Yes, I am! So if it's the buntest beam that I can get for money, I'm even more surprised by the results. Besides that I think everyone who buys a god damn cheap K40 Laser will not be surprised that in this price range you won't get super high quality. Nice channel btw!
@@vmaxdani Please do not misinterpret my comment. This was warning information for those drawn to your great video and no criticism of yourself. There is so much fraud taking place in the Chinese laser world that exploits the technical naivity of the buyers, especially new buyers. . In my early days I was victim to TWO junk tubes before I began to reseach behind the scenes. and dicovered how laser tubes actually live and die and how the "industry"operates. I have seen sveral KH laser tubes where the original EFR label had been covered by the KHLaser label . How stupid can you be? A torch from the underside of the label will reveal all, if they are still that inept.. You will undoubtedly see a huge performance difference from the original 30 watt tube but 130 watts ? The good news is that yout 5mA burn is a solid burn and not a ring, The ring burn at low current is a bad sign. Remember that this is a reject tube but perhaps this was a "just fail" rather than junk . B grade tube are a lottery and you may be lucky.. If this is a 130 watts tube (150 watt peak specification) you should be able to run safely at 30 mA, Your power supply is good for 35mA. Your 130 watt tube should be 80mm diameter and 1650mm long.. There is nothing stupid about putting a big tube in a small machine but you must think about increasing your mirrors to 25mm because the 5mm beam will have power out to 10mm and beyond, The K40 was about 3mm with power out to 6mm and small mirrors were OK. The other thing is your lens, If it is a brownish honey colour you must upgrade it. as the Chinese PVD lenses are rated for 80- watts max. You will need a sunny yellow type. Twice the price but rated for over 200 watts.
What kind of powersupply did you buy? Do you have a link to the source? I'll try to figure out how you need to connect all the wires if you provide me these details
If you want to keep air bubbles from forming inside the laser tube? Make sure your water return line is BELOW THE SURFACE of your water bucket!
You should cut hole on side with hole saw where current tube sits. Longer tube will stick out on side. Then mount large pvc pipe with cap on opening where glass tube would be expose. Will ensure tube is fully covered and can use same k40 unit for it to sit in.
I have the Cloudray M60 power supply and want to connect it to the stock wiring harness which is for the OMTECH JG-40W power supply. Im moving up to a 60 watt Cloudray laser tube.
Can you assist me with a wiring diagram?
Mine came in today! Watching through this planning on the road ahead.. So many upgrades!
If there is so many upgrades isn’t if worth buying the next the k50 ?
@@Martin-ll7jc no.... cause the k40 is 500 bucks or so ... and the k50 or k60 is 2000$ and a tube is 300$ and a power supply another 100$ and if u want a 130W machine be prepared to cash out 10grand.
Finde ich gut
great vid , thank you. I find my standard K40 loses cutting power in the far right hand corners *furthest away from the were the laser enters the cutting area* I do not know why. any ideas please ?
Darren, thanks for the comment! Honestly, you need to be really dead center in any of the lenses in any position. Don't trust videos that claim that it's ok to be just in the circle of the mirror. It all gets critical when hitting the lens. If you hit it dead center, it works great, if not, you loose a ton of power. Do you know how to set up the mirrors? If not, I'm more than happy to explain
@@vmaxdani thank you :) , yes I know how to adjust the mirrors. Seems I need to fine tune them more. Thanks again much appreciated :)
@@DarrenMalin ever fix this issue?
@@chrstofuchaos fixed no reduced yes. I keeped realignment the beam over and over fine tuning it each time. never totally fixed but better .
@@vmaxdani wouldnt positioning the laser tube directly in the interior of the machine instead of going through 3 mirrors and jumping directly to 2nd one inside be more accurate and more efficient? sure u lose some space cause ur tube will be on the other side but pros and cons here... would that extra mirror cause some efficiency problems? like trying to bounce laser beam to another angle just cause compact mode?
05:05 it's not Anode out. It's for the cathode (negative terminal)
Question for the more knowledgeable,,, with an upgrade like this would it be better to require it all together to accommodate larger voltage and power with better wires more suited for the increase in current?
I was just thinking to mitigate fire hazards
@@jeanmanuel6182 Sorry for the Zombie reply but: Yes! Better safe than sorry, right? In a situation like this, the thicker gauge wire wouldn't cost much- that's just what I'd do, just not worth the extra worry with all the others you have when dealing with a 130 watt beast like this. Best to keep safety concerns to a minimum in order to focus on those remaining concerns. 130 watts of non-visible laser power (which can still blind you) is nothing to cut corners with. There may be a reason he hasn't uploaded in 2ish Years =\ I hope it's not because of the laser!
The high voltage wire is for the anode. It's a positive voltage.
You are totally right. I messed up during filming. Let's stick with red hv goes to red hv. 😂
Friend I saw your video I liked it. I will also do the same with a 60w tube. Personnel to show connection diagram H, L, P, G, IN, 5V. Because k 4o has more wires.
Hi Tony, happy to help if I can. What power supply will you use?
@@vmaxdani Im following this thread. I have a CloudRay 60 watt upgrade tube using the M60 Cloudray power supply.
well then time to upgrade to 300W next xD
Haha @George having a hard time to control the 130W tube in terms of temperature and also beam quality. Think I'll first stick to that one and optimize lots of factors before uprading to an even higher rated tube :D
Seria bueno que mostraras el tubo montado en la maquina y realizando un trabajo. De lo contrario parece poco creible.
Who are KH Laser? Where is there tube factory? are they credited tube manufactureres? The simple answer is that this tube is most likely a final test failure from EFR , who are reputable tube manufacturers and will not warrent tubes that fail to meet therir demanding specifications. Once manufactured , a tube cannot be rectified so the only options for EFR are smash it or sell it as a B grade tube for a fractipon of its retail cost. The Kehui Factory that builds thousands of machines for Ebay sale, swoop like vultures on these B grade tubes. They test the power output and check the tube works" in someway" , enough to satify the likely naive end user. Tney then relabel it K H Laser and the fraud is complete.. Tubes fail final test because there small to significant alignment issues with the internal mirrors This causes the power output to be low and the beam to be "blunt" A" blunt" beam will probably engrave because you only need low intesity power butit will be very efficient at cutting. For cutting you need a "sharp" beam. Here is a simple test anyone can conduct to determine if their tube is A or B grade. This vido shows the shape of "sharp and "bluint" beams and how to carry out the test into a block of acrylic.. ua-cam.com/video/naPzFsuvURU/v-deo.html.
Good luck. Perfect mirror alignment = A grade "sharp" beam and full power B grade tubes can still measure at 130 watts but if the mirrors are misaligned the beam will be "blunt". That is why A grade tubes are expensive and there are lots of geat "bargain" tubes available for sale on ebay.
Appreciate your Input, however I think you missed one very intersting point/ question:
Am I happy with what I did so far?
The answer is easy- Yes, I am!
So if it's the buntest beam that I can get for money, I'm even more surprised by the results.
Besides that I think everyone who buys a god damn cheap K40 Laser will not be surprised that in this price range you won't get super high quality.
Nice channel btw!
@@vmaxdani Please do not misinterpret my comment. This was warning information for those drawn to your great video and no criticism of yourself. There is so much fraud taking place in the Chinese laser world that exploits the technical naivity of the buyers, especially new buyers. . In my early days I was victim to TWO junk tubes before I began to reseach behind the scenes. and dicovered how laser tubes actually live and die and how the "industry"operates. I have seen sveral KH laser tubes where the original EFR label had been covered by the KHLaser label . How stupid can you be? A torch from the underside of the label will reveal all, if they are still that inept.. You will undoubtedly see a huge performance difference from the original 30 watt tube but 130 watts ? The good news is that yout 5mA burn is a solid burn and not a ring, The ring burn at low current is a bad sign. Remember that this is a reject tube but perhaps this was a "just fail" rather than junk . B grade tube are a lottery and you may be lucky.. If this is a 130 watts tube (150 watt peak specification) you should be able to run safely at 30 mA, Your power supply is good for 35mA. Your 130 watt tube should be 80mm diameter and 1650mm long..
There is nothing stupid about putting a big tube in a small machine but you must think about increasing your mirrors to 25mm because the 5mm beam will have power out to 10mm and beyond, The K40 was about 3mm with power out to 6mm and small mirrors were OK. The other thing is your lens, If it is a brownish honey colour you must upgrade it. as the Chinese PVD lenses are rated for 80- watts max. You will need a sunny yellow type. Twice the price but rated for over 200 watts.
You wasted a 150 watt laser tube and power supply on a tiny K40 cutting bed? Ridiculous.
Do you have a wiring diagram? I’m trying to upgrade to half of that power and am having issues with wiring 😩🥲
What kind of powersupply did you buy? Do you have a link to the source?
I'll try to figure out how you need to connect all the wires if you provide me these details