When I picked up my 1970 shovelhead somebody had put this type of carburetor on there the butterfly Kian. I know it coughs quite a bit on decel and at initially starting out so I hope this helps me by watching this video Thank you
Let me know. I've had a love hate experience with them. Just watch the crossover/transition circuits. There's a bunch of tiny holes that bridge between the jets.
The little black plug on the idel jet? Recently bought a ironhed it runs terribly when i give it throttle. It does not have this black plug. It also has had a auto choke installed. I need help 😂
I picked up an '81 Sportster 1,000 XLH Iron Head with only 3,000 original miles on it. It has the same carburetor, and was running like junk. Took it apart and it was gummed up inside. I cleaned it up to look like new in my ultrasonic cleaner with Berryman Carburetor Cleaner, before I put it back together I wanted to check to see if there's any 'extra things' I could do to it. Your video was great, but it leaves me with a couple questions: A) My accelerator pump does not have the check valve. The passages, shape, location is identical to yours. Is that going to negatively impact the performance? Should I find a replacement. B) Without a check valve, should I move away from the STOCK Main and Pilot jets? C) Should I obtain a 160 Main and a 68 Pilot similar to yours? Thanks in advance for your response, and thanks for the great video as well. I'm just north of you in Wisconsin.
Tuning wise will be dependent on the bike. I'd start with what it has and go from there. Sadly I haven't been in a Kehin in a minute and can't recall the check valve configuration. I'd try and clean/run what you got first, then troubleshoot if there's issues. After a good cleaning, it may be all good! Good luck with the build!
@@WrenchingWrecked Thanks for the info. It was nastier inside than the on in your video. It would barely run prior to cleaning it, and it had absolutely ZERO acceleration capability. Even in neutral the engine would not rev up quickly, it had to be done slowly or it would kill. It's like new now, just missing the check valve. I'll toss it together with the carburetor rebuild kit I purchased, will fire the pig up and see how it performs and then report back. Thanks again for the info.
Hi, I see you reply to these comments & I hope you reply to mine. My carb runs good, but it leaks out the throat when not running, even when it`s cold & even though the petcock is off. The petcock is new & doesn`t leak. The carb has been rebuilt. The float has been set & reset & set lower. The float has been checked not to leak. The needle is new. I tried 2 of them. I have even magnified the seat (what they call "the float cup") & saw some discoloration of the brass, so I polished that with a drill & buffing compound, then with a fine Dremel stone & again buffing compound. It still drips out of the throat of the carb. I haven`t been able to find a new seat (float cup) & for now I`m putting another style of carb on my 84 Ironhead, but would still like to get to the bottom of this mystery & run my original butterfly Keihin carb...I just don`t want it catching fire! Any ideas? Thanks.
Same butterfly type carb? It's strange it still leaks when the petcock is off. How is the alignment of the carb on the intake/cylinders? Any chance the carb/intake combo isn't level where it mounts up to the motor? Verify if isn't pitched downards at all. I have had one do that when the alignment was off on the motor.
@@WrenchingWrecked Hey thanx for the reply. Yes, same type of Keihin Butterfly carb & it leaks even when cold & with the petcock shutoff until all the gas is out of the fuel line. I sat & watched as an air bubble blurps up the line & the carb bowl fills again, then drip, drip, drip. I did consider the pitch of the carb & wondered if I should re-set the manifold, but now I put on another (same type) carb & it doesn`t leak! So, problem partially solved & I`m riding. I already had the carb so it`s basically free (just time & hair pulling) but I`d still like to make the leaking carb work. It`s a mystery & I guess it will just go in the junk box for small parts, but thanx for your consideration. By the way, my bike is bitchin' & I see yours are too! Thanx for your vids.
We're jets I hope to find when I open up the carburetor it's a Stock 80 cubic inch twin. And I see the accelerator pump has a screw where should I start off with the or hope to end up to get the correct amount of squirt do I need to have it squirt a lot or squirt a little
@@WrenchingWrecked on the keihin carb that came on the bike that screw is for setting hi idle speed ..but spring has 3 noches I'm thinking that has something to do w accelerator pump amt maybe.
Thanks for posting. I am working on one of these now for an 1980 Shovel. I rebuilt the carb and when I turn on the fuel it comes right out of the overflow hose. Think that could be float level, is what I am thinking and it seems to be where it should be according to the manual. Do you have a better way to set the float level? Other than the manuals way " hold the carb like this and check the measurement", LOL with the diagram
@@WrenchingWrecked Thanks, I just kept adjusting it till the it stopped leaking out of the overflow. But it is way off from the manual though. Now I am not getting any gas to squirt twisting the throttle. Any Advice, TIA
Great video! Currently cleaning up one of these off an ‘84 ironhead. Could you explain how to go about reversing the emissions crap they did to the accelerator pump? Do I need to find an accelerator from an older carb? Thanks!
On this one I used some old parts I had laying around, but if I remember correctly I swapped the housing (the lower base) of the older body accelerator pump. I may have drilled a hole to match where the check ball sits too. I think there is a dimple already in either the body or the base of the pump that I took a drill bit and cleared the passage. They come with the dimple in the casting, even though it's not a through passage. On the motor, I just ditched the stock Q cams for a good set of P cams from an earlier motor. The drilling/housing change allows you to make the accelerator pump drop a full burst of fuel, whereas the late model carbs only squirt some of the shot into the motor and some of it into the bowl. Hope this helps. Good luck with the build!
@@WrenchingWrecked Thanks so much for taking the time to explain! Hopefully won’t have to get into the cams anytime soon, but I’m definitely going todo some more research on how people drill out the passageway to get that maximum fuel shot from the carb!
I usually set the idle speed to seated on the idle adjustment then 1/4 turn in and adjust as needed once running. I run the mix screw at 1.5 out from light seat and adjust once warmed up.
Hey man do you know if there’s a Jett kit compatible with these butterfly carbs? Noobie just trying to get his bike running mint with these butterfly carbs. Just don’t want to buy different Jetts and realize they don’t fit.
I’ll try and do one soon on the next carb video. I have four from a Honda and will also be tuning the 883/1200 swap evo with a cv. If you want a butterfly specific one I may be able to do that too.
All my shovelheads have the butterfly carb I love keeping them original. They run very well. I need.to.lean how to adjust the squirt I would.like to shut it off also it squirts to.the far left I need to turn it to the center so the front a d rear get the fuel equally. I dont.know how to.do that.
Give me a bit but I’ll try and do a re adjust video on the pump for you at some point! That is a big part of making em run better. I wish I had the camera on when I first built the blue ironhead for that reason. Lots of time on dialing that carb but off camera
I got given this carb due to my su carb mis behaving !! Im running it on a 1972 1200 shovel, it's got a 70 idler jet ,do you think this is correct? Pops a bit !cheers ,Lee
It's been a while since I had one of these on a shovel, but I think somewhere in the 70 -75 range should be about right for a shovel off the top of my head. Should be close enough to start and give you a baseline at least. I'd just make sure you triple check the jets for clear passages if it has been sitting a while. Cheers!
Thank You for the informative video! Trying to clean out pilot jet on 1980 fxb. Let it sitting too long, ya I'm a D A. Gummed it up 🤙
Glad to help! Good luck with the rebuild!
When I picked up my 1970 shovelhead somebody had put this type of carburetor on there the butterfly Kian. I know it coughs quite a bit on decel and at initially starting out so I hope this helps me by watching this video Thank you
Let me know. I've had a love hate experience with them. Just watch the crossover/transition circuits. There's a bunch of tiny holes that bridge between the jets.
@@WrenchingWrecked 👍🏼👍🏼
The little black plug on the idel jet? Recently bought a ironhed it runs terribly when i give it throttle. It does not have this black plug. It also has had a auto choke installed. I need help 😂
It's my understanding that they need the black plug to run proper. I'd start there for sure!
I picked up an '81 Sportster 1,000 XLH Iron Head with only 3,000 original miles on it. It has the same carburetor, and was running like junk. Took it apart and it was gummed up inside. I cleaned it up to look like new in my ultrasonic cleaner with Berryman Carburetor Cleaner, before I put it back together I wanted to check to see if there's any 'extra things' I could do to it. Your video was great, but it leaves me with a couple questions:
A) My accelerator pump does not have the check valve. The passages, shape, location is identical to yours. Is that going to negatively impact the performance? Should I find a replacement.
B) Without a check valve, should I move away from the STOCK Main and Pilot jets?
C) Should I obtain a 160 Main and a 68 Pilot similar to yours?
Thanks in advance for your response, and thanks for the great video as well. I'm just north of you in Wisconsin.
Tuning wise will be dependent on the bike. I'd start with what it has and go from there. Sadly I haven't been in a Kehin in a minute and can't recall the check valve configuration. I'd try and clean/run what you got first, then troubleshoot if there's issues. After a good cleaning, it may be all good! Good luck with the build!
@@WrenchingWrecked Thanks for the info. It was nastier inside than the on in your video. It would barely run prior to cleaning it, and it had absolutely ZERO acceleration capability. Even in neutral the engine would not rev up quickly, it had to be done slowly or it would kill. It's like new now, just missing the check valve. I'll toss it together with the carburetor rebuild kit I purchased, will fire the pig up and see how it performs and then report back. Thanks again for the info.
@@WrenchingWrecked In checking the Main and Pilot jets (now that they are clean) they are 160 and 80 respectively. Forgot to add that in my response.
Hi, I see you reply to these comments & I hope you reply to mine.
My carb runs good, but it leaks out the throat when not running, even when it`s cold & even though the petcock is off.
The petcock is new & doesn`t leak.
The carb has been rebuilt.
The float has been set & reset & set lower.
The float has been checked not to leak.
The needle is new. I tried 2 of them.
I have even magnified the seat (what they call "the float cup") & saw some discoloration of the brass, so I polished that with a drill & buffing compound, then with a fine Dremel stone & again buffing compound.
It still drips out of the throat of the carb.
I haven`t been able to find a new seat (float cup) & for now I`m putting another style of carb on my 84 Ironhead, but would still like to get to the bottom of this mystery & run my original butterfly Keihin carb...I just don`t want it catching fire!
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Same butterfly type carb? It's strange it still leaks when the petcock is off. How is the alignment of the carb on the intake/cylinders? Any chance the carb/intake combo isn't level where it mounts up to the motor? Verify if isn't pitched downards at all. I have had one do that when the alignment was off on the motor.
@@WrenchingWrecked Hey thanx for the reply.
Yes, same type of Keihin Butterfly carb & it leaks even when cold & with the petcock shutoff until all the gas is out of the fuel line.
I sat & watched as an air bubble blurps up the line & the carb bowl fills again, then drip, drip, drip.
I did consider the pitch of the carb & wondered if I should re-set the manifold, but now I put on another (same type) carb & it doesn`t leak!
So, problem partially solved & I`m riding.
I already had the carb so it`s basically free
(just time & hair pulling)
but I`d still like to make the leaking carb work.
It`s a mystery & I guess it will just go in the junk box for small parts, but thanx for your consideration.
By the way, my bike is bitchin' & I see yours are too!
Thanx for your vids.
We're jets I hope to find when I open up the carburetor it's a Stock 80 cubic inch twin. And I see the accelerator pump has a screw where should I start off with the or hope to end up to get the correct amount of squirt do I need to have it squirt a lot or squirt a little
I usually run the accelerators on the richer side, but it'll be really dependent on what the bike wants.
@@WrenchingWrecked on the keihin carb that came on the bike that screw is for setting hi idle speed ..but spring has 3 noches I'm thinking that has something to do w accelerator pump amt maybe.
Great video, cheers man !
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting. I am working on one of these now for an 1980 Shovel. I rebuilt the carb and when I turn on the fuel it comes right out of the overflow hose. Think that could be float level, is what I am thinking and it seems to be where it should be according to the manual. Do you have a better way to set the float level? Other than the manuals way " hold the carb like this and check the measurement", LOL with the diagram
Usually if it's overflowing it's a stuck float or way out of adjustment on the float. What carb are you running?
Completely stock carb Keihin
27471-80A
@@WrenchingWrecked
@@WrenchingWrecked Thanks, I just kept adjusting it till the it stopped leaking out of the overflow. But it is way off from the manual though. Now I am not getting any gas to squirt twisting the throttle. Any Advice, TIA
Great video! Currently cleaning up one of these off an ‘84 ironhead. Could you explain how to go about reversing the emissions crap they did to the accelerator pump? Do I need to find an accelerator from an older carb? Thanks!
On this one I used some old parts I had laying around, but if I remember correctly I swapped the housing (the lower base) of the older body accelerator pump. I may have drilled a hole to match where the check ball sits too. I think there is a dimple already in either the body or the base of the pump that I took a drill bit and cleared the passage. They come with the dimple in the casting, even though it's not a through passage. On the motor, I just ditched the stock Q cams for a good set of P cams from an earlier motor. The drilling/housing change allows you to make the accelerator pump drop a full burst of fuel, whereas the late model carbs only squirt some of the shot into the motor and some of it into the bowl. Hope this helps. Good luck with the build!
@@WrenchingWrecked Thanks so much for taking the time to explain! Hopefully won’t have to get into the cams anytime soon, but I’m definitely going todo some more research on how people drill out the passageway to get that maximum fuel shot from the carb!
Hello!
Can you tell me the basic screw settings?
Idle speed 1 1/4 turns, rest?
Thanks!
i have iron 1985 sportster
I usually set the idle speed to seated on the idle adjustment then 1/4 turn in and adjust as needed once running. I run the mix screw at 1.5 out from light seat and adjust once warmed up.
Hey man do you know if there’s a Jett kit compatible with these butterfly carbs? Noobie just trying to get his bike running mint with these butterfly carbs. Just don’t want to buy different Jetts and realize they don’t fit.
You should be able to find jets for it, I can't remember where I got mine. I thought most kehins use the same size though.
Know anywhere to find a new float? Mine broke and its a pain in the ass to find them
That I do not. Ebay have any? Or Sudco perhaps?
Can you show how to properly adjust the Float.
I’ll try and do one soon on the next carb video. I have four from a Honda and will also be tuning the 883/1200 swap evo with a cv. If you want a butterfly specific one I may be able to do that too.
All my shovelheads have the butterfly carb I love keeping them original. They run very well. I need.to.lean how to adjust the squirt I would.like to shut it off also it squirts to.the far left I need to turn it to the center so the front a d rear get the fuel equally. I dont.know how to.do that.
Give me a bit but I’ll try and do a re adjust video on the pump for you at some point! That is a big part of making em run better. I wish I had the camera on when I first built the blue ironhead for that reason. Lots of time on dialing that carb but off camera
I got given this carb due to my su carb mis behaving !! Im running it on a 1972 1200 shovel, it's got a 70 idler jet ,do you think this is correct? Pops a bit !cheers ,Lee
It's been a while since I had one of these on a shovel, but I think somewhere in the 70 -75 range should be about right for a shovel off the top of my head. Should be close enough to start and give you a baseline at least. I'd just make sure you triple check the jets for clear passages if it has been sitting a while. Cheers!
Great video, thank you !
Glad I could help!! Thanks for watching!
You see nothing because your hands and that awfully big tool prevents seeing.
I'll admit this wasn't the best view.. I'll have a new video next time I mess with another Kehin butterfly. Thanks for the input!
Really bad Video 🙄
Noted. Thanks
What about checking and adjusting float height? Maybe you don’t know how …sorry.
Float height on this one was actually good. Always a good idea to check that while your in there though!