This is where math teachers could say something about calculus and derivatives :) “who needs it?” *cough* lol But even though I’m not a rod racing, like I used to be, I will still come back and watch all the videos to find Keith information in my head, these videos are literally priceless!
VERY well explained reasoning for the difference between turbo, NA and blown ! Best I've seen so far. I'm very much into the turbo LS stuff and what has ALWAYS bothered me is, and I'm no cam expert, many of the mostly used brands of cam sellers BTR, LIl John's, Texas Speed, etc, have what I'd consider ( and you as well Steve ) to have too much overlap for a turbo cam. My belief is because sooo many people are hung up on having it chop ! This seems foolish to me to sacrifice power ( and possibly your engine with false rich readings) just to have a certain sound. But it seems even good cam designers will give people what they want vs what they need... Thoughts on this trend @stevemorris ?
I love these videos and series. I learn so much. If/when i get the cash to finish my build, i most definitely will be contacting Steve. But family first before my toys.
If I graduate Steve Tech U, can I get a job? You wouldn’t even have to pay, I would just love to work with this stuff. It would be like vacation everyday. You are the luckiest guy on earth. Love these videos keep’em coming.
Thanks Steve - I think you validated my (2009) small cam choice on the small-blower BBC I have in my '68 El Camino. I have a .030 454 with stock bottom end and flat-top HK pistons, Patriot rec port aluminum heads (320cc runners and 119cc chambers w/ 2.25 & 1.88 valves). The blower is a 177 Weiand with 2-sizes-smaller pulley (2.85" vs base 3.0" but still more show than go). The cam is hydraulic roller Comp with 236 and 242 duration @ 0.050 and 110 lobe separation with .521 and .540 valve lift (0.370 and .03190 @ 0.050 lobe lift). The dual springs and keepers all came in a Comp matching kit with the cam. Rockers are Comp pro-magnum rollers. It makes torque all day maxing out at ~6lbs of boost at 4400 rpm (I rev limit the bottom end to 5500) and it all fits under a 4" cowl hood. This past spring, I converted the carb and analog MSD distributor over to a 8-injector (overkill) Sniper EFI and MSD dual synch distributor. No idea what power it makes now, but the street radials can't hold until 5th gear (which probably keeps me from breaking lots of overtaxed driveline parts) - it makes smiles all day long. I just started to teach my 20 yr old daughter how to drive a stick shift in it : ).
Just ran across your channel..I have to say (as a former shop owner), you know your stuff.. I'm impressed with your technical know-how. So much that I will be contacting you in the future for your input on the rebuild of my 67 Dodge Coronet with a 440. Planning on staying N/A unless you can influence me otherwise. Already looking into ProCharging my 2019 Nissan Titan Pro-4x
Man you have no idea what you're talking about...... Lol I'm kidding of course. This spec stuff coming off the top of your head is absolutely incredible. You Sir Steve are a engine genius!
Super interesting video! That low-ish boost 632 application is very intriguing. The NA engine probably consumes 100-110 lbs of air per minute. I don’t know the capacity of an F1A-94 but I’m guessing in the 150-160 range. Depending on the boost, the compressor may take 20-30 lb/min to run it, leaving less than 140 for power at the crank. So 8-9 psi boost gets you 1400-ish horsepower at the crank and your compressor is maxed out. I can see that getting the big engine boosted is going to be a bit tricky. Thanks for this series, really good!
Well thanks Steve that's where a guy needs to make his mind up on which direction he wants or you just have one car with turbo one car with nitrous and one car with pro charger and a lot of money right well thanks for the info man always love listening to you tell everybody I said hello
Interesting point on overlap allowing unburned mixture out and the unused oxygen fooling the O2 sensor into reading a lean condition. I wonder if thats why some run better reading leaner?
We are running a 67 Camaro street car 6 L LS 3600 pound twin 69 mm turbo stick shift Camaro trapping 165 1/4 mile at 24 pounds of boost. Cam is a 226 234 with a 114° lobe separation hydraulic. Would it be beneficial for us to step up to a bigger solid cam? I’m thinking it would pick up huge power by pushing the power band out another thousand RPMs.
@@danielsullivan9865 - A bigger cam would cost you a bit on the low end which could hurt your 60’, especially in a heavy 3600 lb car. You could make it up with a converter change and hitting it harder but this would add stress to the engine and other driveline components. I guess the big question then becomes how far you want to push your “street” car and how much are you willing to invest in upgrading the rest of the car?
@@danmyers9372 Has no converter just a T 56 magnum manual stick shift. We have to launch on no boost or It will blow the tires off. It will make 7 pounds of boost free spooling with no break using boost builder. Plenty of room for any loss. The biggest problem is controlling the power. I’m thinking with more camshaft we can pick up 10 miles an hour out the back door. It’s a 8.80 car but would like to get it to 8.20
thank you for your explanation on turbo cams and blower cams I was going to order a cam yesterday and I felt that I was being led into a cam that really won't work on the application I am building. I will certainly call and discuss what I have and you can tell me what I need. and I will order from you. thank you so much.
I love to here ur brain working 🤪🤪🙂🙂 I've drove and work alot of fast stuff over the years !!! I got the crazy bug in 96 nmca racing I would like to here some of NOS cam ideas ?? How do they fit in your cam theories on how they work Thanks I really listening to your technical talks !!! I've been out of it for a while and miss it alot 🤪🤪🤪 I I still have pictures of my 5yr son seating n carter/Mickey blue Malibu @ my shop I was wiring it and install a bunch cool stuff to help it get down the track @ the time it had a 393/18 deg with twins 88 and a liberty on 10.5 W !!
Jim back again with the 620 cubic inch big block Chevy what's 14 degree Big Chief heads was building it for a different class years ago now I want to start out with a turbo engine I sold my compression pistons for it and my NOS cam I understand what you're saying but just wondering about the single pattern stage 2 and that is one degree shy of what you mentioned on the LSA I understand the power adder turbos building back pressure in the intake boost and why the smaller camshaft make sense not trying to make a Max effort engine at this time every built a couple turbo engines 1 is Max effort and the other is a street strip basically wondering single pattern and the four degree Advanced install on an engine that size well they getting your piston ring pin combo shortly thanks Jim you could answer my couple questions
Sorry again Steve I should have said I refreshing a small block Ford turbo engine and a 540 big block Chevrolet my buddies Max effort PL just have the few extra questions about the camshaft since this will be my first or myself turbo build thanks again I didn't mean to drag this out lots of snow blowers going on right now
I suppose the moral of the story is: If you want a specific power output of engine, get someone who specialises on that engine (blown or NA) to build it for you.
I'd love to hear your analysis of the sloppy stage 2 (Elgin 1840-p) so many people throw into any LS application without question. N/A, turbo, 4.8, 6.0, etc.
Hello Steve I bought a big block Chevrolet cam from you solid roller it is 6 20 cubic inch 14 degree Big Chief heads told you to start with I wanted something like a drag week cam that I can drive on the street a little bit going to use twin turbos that you recommended wondering if you can explain the single pattern stage 2 solid roller reasoning this is my first turbo engine build I have built Manny na engines nitrous and root style blower motors from 671 to 1471 just trying to understand the concept of that single pattern cam grind I have learned much so far on the turbo cam part of it especially for this size engine and build the other engines turbos have split duration and wondering why I was instructed to Advance 4 degrees when I called her I was just told that that's where it runs the best could use a little more schooling on this concept please thank you Jim Bowman from Michigan
@ James I think you would be best calling Steve and asking him your questions. That’s a lot of explaining for him to type out. I’ve spoke to Alex as well….very knowledgeable. Just saying….
The kink in your graph at full lift is caused by errors in the software due to insufficient number of sampling points. Not a spec of dirt or anything else. Acceleration at peak lift is always zero as is the velocity. The kink isn't big enough because the graph doesn't come up to zero. So it's crappy software and GIGO.
Not only that but at peak lift is where acceleration changes or should change from being negative to positive. As it approaches peak lift the velocity is decreasing as is the deceleration. Deceleration is negative and below the x axis. At peak lift acceleration and velocity are both zero. After peak lift both velocity and acceleration are increasing so the acceleration line crosses the x axis and is positive, not negative as the computer shows. It's a bug in the software again caused by an insufficient number of sampling points at peak.
No science here. No charts and numbers. It works for him with some theory. Many years ago a cam manufacturer said , For general use 280 and some overlap is good for NA as well as Supercharged. He was right by your estimation. Your cam follower thingy measure manufacturing tolerances yet doe not simulate the lifter following the cam.
i like seeing tech that other shops share on youtube, there are always small things that can be learned from each other. But to be honest this video just had a bunch of useless chatter in it. the other videos you have made have been a lot more useful.
I think you're missing the whole point he is making. It's too common for people to use a radical off-the-shelf cam that really isn't suited to their engine. I think it was really important to touch on how too much exhaust duration can send excessive unburned fuel into the exhaust under boost. It's all about matching parts.
This is where math teachers could say something about calculus and derivatives :)
“who needs it?” *cough* lol
But even though I’m not a rod racing, like I used to be, I will still come back and watch all the videos to find Keith information in my head, these videos are literally priceless!
VERY well explained reasoning for the difference between turbo, NA and blown ! Best I've seen so far.
I'm very much into the turbo LS stuff and what has ALWAYS bothered me is, and I'm no cam expert, many of the mostly used brands of cam sellers BTR, LIl John's, Texas Speed, etc, have what I'd consider ( and you as well Steve ) to have too much overlap for a turbo cam.
My belief is because sooo many people are hung up on having it chop !
This seems foolish to me to sacrifice power ( and possibly your engine with false rich readings) just to have a certain sound. But it seems even good cam designers will give people what they want vs what they need...
Thoughts on this trend @stevemorris ?
I love these videos and series. I learn so much. If/when i get the cash to finish my build, i most definitely will be contacting Steve. But family first before my toys.
I really liked the graphics of the rocker arm and what the valve is doing.
If I graduate Steve Tech U, can I get a job? You wouldn’t even have to pay, I would just love to work with this stuff. It would be like vacation everyday. You are the luckiest guy on earth. Love these videos keep’em coming.
Thanks Steve - I think you validated my (2009) small cam choice on the small-blower BBC I have in my '68 El Camino. I have a .030 454 with stock bottom end and flat-top HK pistons, Patriot rec port aluminum heads (320cc runners and 119cc chambers w/ 2.25 & 1.88 valves). The blower is a 177 Weiand with 2-sizes-smaller pulley (2.85" vs base 3.0" but still more show than go). The cam is hydraulic roller Comp with 236 and 242 duration @ 0.050 and 110 lobe separation with .521 and .540 valve lift (0.370 and .03190 @ 0.050 lobe lift). The dual springs and keepers all came in a Comp matching kit with the cam. Rockers are Comp pro-magnum rollers. It makes torque all day maxing out at ~6lbs of boost at 4400 rpm (I rev limit the bottom end to 5500) and it all fits under a 4" cowl hood. This past spring, I converted the carb and analog MSD distributor over to a 8-injector (overkill) Sniper EFI and MSD dual synch distributor. No idea what power it makes now, but the street radials can't hold until 5th gear (which probably keeps me from breaking lots of overtaxed driveline parts) - it makes smiles all day long. I just started to teach my 20 yr old daughter how to drive a stick shift in it : ).
Just ran across your channel..I have to say (as a former shop owner), you know your stuff.. I'm impressed with your technical know-how. So much that I will be contacting you in the future for your input on the rebuild of my 67 Dodge Coronet with a 440. Planning on staying N/A unless you can influence me otherwise. Already looking into ProCharging my 2019 Nissan Titan Pro-4x
Another awesome Tech video ,,, Thank You ,,, I have to watch them 3-4 times just to get my brain to keep 10% of them ,,,,
Man you have no idea what you're talking about...... Lol I'm kidding of course. This spec stuff coming off the top of your head is absolutely incredible. You Sir Steve are a engine genius!
One of the absolute best explanations I’ve ever heard
Loving this series.
Great information once again ! Thanks very much Steve, really appreciated!
Super interesting video! That low-ish boost 632 application is very intriguing. The NA engine probably consumes 100-110 lbs of air per minute. I don’t know the capacity of an F1A-94 but I’m guessing in the 150-160 range. Depending on the boost, the compressor may take 20-30 lb/min to run it, leaving less than 140 for power at the crank. So 8-9 psi boost gets you 1400-ish horsepower at the crank and your compressor is maxed out. I can see that getting the big engine boosted is going to be a bit tricky. Thanks for this series, really good!
Great content thanks for sharing, very informative
Wonderfully interesting series
That little divit on the lobe nose is called a trigger
Well thanks Steve that's where a guy needs to make his mind up on which direction he wants or you just have one car with turbo one car with nitrous and one car with pro charger and a lot of money right well thanks for the info man always love listening to you tell everybody I said hello
Interesting point on overlap allowing unburned mixture out and the unused oxygen fooling the O2 sensor into reading a lean condition.
I wonder if thats why some run better reading leaner?
Thanks Steve I believe this was the best cam shaft video I’ve ever seen especially for boosted engines.
We are running a 67 Camaro street car 6 L LS 3600 pound twin 69 mm turbo stick shift Camaro trapping 165 1/4 mile at 24 pounds of boost. Cam is a 226 234 with a 114° lobe separation hydraulic. Would it be beneficial for us to step up to a bigger solid cam? I’m thinking it would pick up huge power by pushing the power band out another thousand RPMs.
@@danielsullivan9865 - A bigger cam would cost you a bit on the low end which could hurt your 60’, especially in a heavy 3600 lb car. You could make it up with a converter change and hitting it harder but this would add stress to the engine and other driveline components. I guess the big question then becomes how far you want to push your “street” car and how much are you willing to invest in upgrading the rest of the car?
@@danmyers9372 Has no converter just a T 56 magnum manual stick shift. We have to launch on no boost or It will blow the tires off. It will make 7 pounds of boost free spooling with no break using boost builder. Plenty of room for any loss. The biggest problem is controlling the power. I’m thinking with more camshaft we can pick up 10 miles an hour out the back door. It’s a 8.80 car but would like to get it to 8.20
thank you for your explanation on turbo cams and blower cams I was going to order a cam yesterday and I felt that I was being led into a cam that really won't work on the application I am building. I will certainly call and discuss what I have and you can tell me what I need. and I will order from you. thank you so much.
Outstanding! Thanks Steve 👍
Thanks for sharing, great information
I love to here ur brain working 🤪🤪🙂🙂 I've drove and work alot of fast stuff over the years !!! I got the crazy bug in 96 nmca racing I would like to here some of NOS cam ideas ?? How do they fit in your cam theories on how they work
Thanks I really listening to your technical talks !!! I've been out of it for a while and miss it alot 🤪🤪🤪 I I still have pictures of my 5yr son seating n carter/Mickey blue Malibu @ my shop I was wiring it and install a bunch cool stuff to help it get down the track @ the time it had a 393/18 deg with twins 88 and a liberty on 10.5 W !!
Good stuff steve,, thanks for the class!!
Well thanks so much Steve very truth though I can't see the screen or nothing but maybe one of these days I'll get to see it in person later
Great info & insight as always. Seems that the old school 'lazy lobe' cams are much more stable & tax the valve train substantially less.
Ya look a WHOLE lot more rested than you did in them Cleetus 2.4 Lemons vids. Good stuff chief !
You mentioned you would discuss cam advance later in the video. Did I miss it?
Great info as usual Steve! Any plans on making a Turbo Cam for the GM Gen V LT engines? I'm building a 416ci low for my truck.
Thanks Steve!
Hi you should show your profile cams on the graphics so we can see the difference.
Jim back again with the 620 cubic inch big block Chevy what's 14 degree Big Chief heads was building it for a different class years ago now I want to start out with a turbo engine I sold my compression pistons for it and my NOS cam I understand what you're saying but just wondering about the single pattern stage 2 and that is one degree shy of what you mentioned on the LSA I understand the power adder turbos building back pressure in the intake boost and why the smaller camshaft make sense not trying to make a Max effort engine at this time every built a couple turbo engines 1 is Max effort and the other is a street strip basically wondering single pattern and the four degree Advanced install on an engine that size well they getting your piston ring pin combo shortly thanks Jim you could answer my couple questions
The cam dr is bad ass, it would be interesting to see what changing lash does to the duration and valve speed
Agree! I would think a bigger lash would really affect the ramp speed at the valve?
It's not really bad ass when it can't display acceleration correctly.
Are you going to do anything on the small block ford camshafts?
If you put the small cam in the 632 with the smaller blower.... will the 632 get gapped by a 540? If makes sense
Sorry again Steve I should have said I refreshing a small block Ford turbo engine and a 540 big block Chevrolet my buddies Max effort PL just have the few extra questions about the camshaft since this will be my first or myself turbo build thanks again I didn't mean to drag this out lots of snow blowers going on right now
*only watches 30 seconds of video then makes angry stupid comments - Sunday Morning UA-cam Viewers
I suppose the moral of the story is: If you want a specific power output of engine, get someone who specialises on that engine (blown or NA) to build it for you.
👍👍
👍💪
So if I have an overhead cam bucket style lifter an A symmetrical lobe is not as important?
Japanese cams aren't symmetrical.
Damm.
I'd love to hear your analysis of the sloppy stage 2 (Elgin 1840-p) so many people throw into any LS application without question. N/A, turbo, 4.8, 6.0, etc.
Hello Steve I bought a big block Chevrolet cam from you solid roller it is 6 20 cubic inch 14 degree Big Chief heads told you to start with I wanted something like a drag week cam that I can drive on the street a little bit going to use twin turbos that you recommended wondering if you can explain the single pattern stage 2 solid roller reasoning this is my first turbo engine build I have built Manny na engines nitrous and root style blower motors from 671 to 1471 just trying to understand the concept of that single pattern cam grind I have learned much so far on the turbo cam part of it especially for this size engine and build the other engines turbos have split duration and wondering why I was instructed to Advance 4 degrees when I called her I was just told that that's where it runs the best could use a little more schooling on this concept please thank you Jim Bowman from Michigan
@ James
I think you would be best calling Steve and asking him your questions. That’s a lot of explaining for him to type out.
I’ve spoke to Alex as well….very knowledgeable.
Just saying….
The kink in your graph at full lift is caused by errors in the software due to insufficient number of sampling points. Not a spec of dirt or anything else. Acceleration at peak lift is always zero as is the velocity. The kink isn't big enough because the graph doesn't come up to zero. So it's crappy software and GIGO.
Not only that but at peak lift is where acceleration changes or should change from being negative to positive. As it approaches peak lift the velocity is decreasing as is the deceleration. Deceleration is negative and below the x axis. At peak lift acceleration and velocity are both zero. After peak lift both velocity and acceleration are increasing so the acceleration line crosses the x axis and is positive, not negative as the computer shows. It's a bug in the software again caused by an insufficient number of sampling points at peak.
Then when it comes to jerk, that's completely wrong too because you need an accurate graph of acceleration in order to calculate it using calculus.
Moral of the story make power with the adder not the camshaft
Dude could have a PhD. in engine building.
Are you sure Steve? lol
No science here. No charts and numbers. It works for him with some theory. Many years ago a cam manufacturer said , For general use 280 and some overlap is good for NA as well as Supercharged.
He was right by your estimation. Your cam follower thingy measure manufacturing tolerances yet doe not simulate the lifter following the cam.
i like seeing tech that other shops share on youtube, there are always small things that can be learned from each other. But to be honest this video just had a bunch of useless chatter in it. the other videos you have made have been a lot more useful.
I think you're missing the whole point he is making. It's too common for people to use a radical off-the-shelf cam that really isn't suited to their engine. I think it was really important to touch on how too much exhaust duration can send excessive unburned fuel into the exhaust under boost. It's all about matching parts.
Richard Holdener says there is no such thing as a turbo cam. He has a video on it