You always have very good references. Have you ever thought about doing an episode discussing darkroom books? I enjoy your videos. Good to see you back in action.
Found the channel recently and really love the darkroom content. I imagine the traditional photography stuff winds up being more "engaging" and pleases the algos but there's really a dearth of good darkroom techniques stuff on youtube, so I've very much been enjoying going through all the old videos.
Oh wow as a relative darkroom newbie, (a couple years in) I hadn’t heard of toning a negative!! This is fascinating! Thank you for all of your great content, I always learn a lot!!!
This is excellent. I have been teaching this stuff for years. With Ansel Adams's book, "The Negative," as my guide, then over the years in the darkroom, >> 👌 I have just now subscribed and shared the link. Thank you!
You're not alone dropping film onto the floor while loading. So, I've been on my hands/knees feeling for that film. Yep, most of us probably have dropped film. :)
When you load a lot of film it is so easy to go on autopilot and get lazy. Important to stay focused and remember how much work it was to expose that negative!!!
I have recently been using selenium toning on prints using Ilford FB glassy and some Art 300. I do get a boost in contrast, mostly from the darkening of the higher density areas. There's a color shift, as you know, so it's not right for all image. But, it is a good option.
Agree fully sometimes the tones do not work for the print in those instances I usually go more dilute and very brief just to remove any green cast (if present) and intensify the blacks a little. Or I use light sepia or other toners 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! I was out shooting today and have a mixed roll some Higher contrast and some lower. Was easy to develop for the higher contrast and either A) print the others on my condenser enlarger or B) sepia tone the soft negs or C) both… haven’t gotten that far yet 😂 Great to have an additional tool in the tool box!
I've just subscribed, after commenting once before. It's a pleasure to find a careful darkroom worker discussing things thoughtfully. I can do without the jump cuts that are some kind of badge of authenticity for YT videos; I don't lose interest when the content is good. It has taken me several years (ouch) to feel really in command of my darkroom processes since my no-longer-pro return some years back; Covid lock-down didn't help, because I still have to work a "day job" and I wanted to be making portraits, no still lifes. Anyway, I'll be following along. Good work.
Thanks Phillip! A big part of all my jump cuts is just how truely terrible I am at talking on camera :) Sorta has become a necessary evil so try to make the most of it. And try to be as to the point as I can be! Glad to have you follow along, Thanks!
Great timing with this video. I've always been curious about doing that after I heard that John Sexton did that to some of his negatives. I'm going to try the Selenium toning on a roll of portraits I just took that are a bit flat at 1to 5 and see what happens. BTW, I picked up a copy of that Tim Rudman toning book - can't wait to read it.
Holy 💩it worked! I got 1/2 stop increase in contrast at least! I toned the entire roll instead of a single negative which was easier. I ended up using 1:3 selenium ratio for ten minutes. That's so cool. I'm going to experiment more with it.
As always, a well presented if unusual aspect of B&W darkroom technique. There was a time decades ago when I studied these techniques and briefly explored selenium intensification. I also looked into mercury toning, but the published warnings over associated health risks of that process killed any interest I had. For what it's worth to anyone, my conclusion was that the results of negative toning were not reliably expectable, so it was more a "Hail Mary" salvation technique for bad negatives than an act of technical artistry. I think it is reasonably clear in the video, but those who missed the point, these toning techniques are a one way street. If you do not like the results, you cannot re-process the film to get home again or a do-over.
I've tried selenium intensification a few times with limited success, but never with sepia; I'll have to try it. You should give Multigrade V a go, I much prefer it to IV. It comes out closer to the look of a fibre print.
1:3 selenium toner , non destructive at 3 minutes and in control , after that no benefit . Test a dead neg of equal density before the good one . 1/2 to one grade of increased contrast . Good to gain some shadow contrast if you have some shadow detail to get Hi lights have to be watched at 3 minutes , after that they will get uncontrollable .
Yes, most likely but this has been another great tool for me on top of that even. When I shoot roll film I now can consider what enlarger type I am printing on for a grade of contrast difference and another if I tone. This all before Using filters during printing. So, I still do that just now have another tool. Find it very helpful if a roll has mixed contrast. I can lean a little soft and than add contrast to the images that need it.
great video! how would you characterize the difference between toning negatives and increasing the contrast grade when printing? I really get the local toning idea and definitely plan to experiment with that though.
Do not have a ton of direct comparison to go by… but the toning is significantly weighted more to the highlights in the print. The dense part of the negs tone more than the thin parts. So it is a bit more isolated to the higher values but does give a global increase. So locally bringing out highlights would seem to be a good application.
thanks for your reply, @@Distphoto - ah ok got it, so even if you were toning the whole print indiscriminately the the highlights go harder than the shadows so in theory compared to printing at a higher contrast grade you would expect to preserve more of the shadow detail that might otherwise get crushed if simply jumping from grade 2.5 to grade 4+ or something?
Hi I've used Adox Selenium on B&W 35mm negs to try to increase contrast, however I have seen no visible difference on what are sadly thin negs due to I think weak developer. Can you please offer and advice as to where I might be going wrong ?
Depending on how much silver is there with Selenium you should get a slight increase. If they are really thin you might not be able to notice it by eye and may need to test with printing. Try a strong Selenium for 5- 7min. Hope that helps a bit...
Just to clarify I put the developer ID11 in the fridge. Something I don't normally do. Do you think it's too cold. I usually buy a 1ltr pack but because I had quite a few rolls I decided to get a 5ltr pack. So I've used the mix on several rolls already with no problems, however after using the developer after being in the fridge and only at 20c I find the negs are quite thin. Any help you can offer would be great. Thanks in advance.
Putting the developer in the fridge will not harm it. However, the cooler the developer is the less active it will be. That is why the development was less and the negs looked thin most likely (unless the developer is exhausted - see below). You could extend the development or warm it up some. Also if you are re-using the developer it may be getting exhausted which will also give thin negatives and if that is the case mix up fresh developer. I always use mine as one shot but many people do re-use and replenish.
@@Distphoto It was fresh developer and it's the only thing I did differently. I've ordered a fresh packet and I'll keep it in the cupboard as I usually do. In all my years I've never had such a bad run of negs so I have to put it down to the fridge having an adverse reaction on the chemicals. Anyway thank you for your comments they are much appreciated.
You always have very good references. Have you ever thought about doing an episode discussing darkroom books? I enjoy your videos. Good to see you back in action.
I have thought about this. For me it would be hard to pin down and stay focused. So many and so much info!!! Will keep kicking it around!
Found the channel recently and really love the darkroom content. I imagine the traditional photography stuff winds up being more "engaging" and pleases the algos but there's really a dearth of good darkroom techniques stuff on youtube, so I've very much been enjoying going through all the old videos.
Thanks Jay!
Oh wow as a relative darkroom newbie, (a couple years in) I hadn’t heard of toning a negative!! This is fascinating! Thank you for all of your great content, I always learn a lot!!!
Thank you Suzanne!
This is very Interesting. I did try intensifying a neg in selenium, without much luck. It’s something I need to nail. Great video, as ever.
I want to dig deeper into this as well but feel it has a good place in the darkroom👍
This is excellent. I have been teaching this stuff for years.
With Ansel Adams's book, "The Negative," as my guide, then over the years in the darkroom, >> 👌
I have just now subscribed and shared the link.
Thank you!
Awesome, thanks for sharing!
You're not alone dropping film onto the floor while loading. So, I've been on my hands/knees feeling for that film. Yep, most of us probably have dropped film. :)
When you load a lot of film it is so easy to go on autopilot and get lazy. Important to stay focused and remember how much work it was to expose that negative!!!
I have recently been using selenium toning on prints using Ilford FB glassy and some Art 300. I do get a boost in contrast, mostly from the darkening of the higher density areas. There's a color shift, as you know, so it's not right for all image. But, it is a good option.
Agree fully sometimes the tones do not work for the print in those instances I usually go more dilute and very brief just to remove any green cast (if present) and intensify the blacks a little. Or I use light sepia or other toners 👍
Really interesting. Never even knew about toning negatives.
What’s really wild is how many different timers and ways you can actually do it. Different bleaches, direct, indirect, etc.
This is fantastic. Interesting research.
Glad you enjoyed it! I was out shooting today and have a mixed roll some Higher contrast and some lower. Was easy to develop for the higher contrast and either A) print the others on my condenser enlarger or B) sepia tone the soft negs or C) both… haven’t gotten that far yet 😂 Great to have an additional tool in the tool box!
I've just subscribed, after commenting once before. It's a pleasure to find a careful darkroom worker discussing things thoughtfully. I can do without the jump cuts that are some kind of badge of authenticity for YT videos; I don't lose interest when the content is good. It has taken me several years (ouch) to feel really in command of my darkroom processes since my no-longer-pro return some years back; Covid lock-down didn't help, because I still have to work a "day job" and I wanted to be making portraits, no still lifes. Anyway, I'll be following along. Good work.
Thanks Phillip! A big part of all my jump cuts is just how truely terrible I am at talking on camera :) Sorta has become a necessary evil so try to make the most of it. And try to be as to the point as I can be! Glad to have you follow along, Thanks!
@@Distphoto I was saying it because yours are minimal; many channels have them constantly. Speaking to a camera is difficult. You're way ahead.
As always, so informative. Really appreciate you.
Thanks Al, appreciate you as well!
Great timing with this video. I've always been curious about doing that after I heard that John Sexton did that to some of his negatives. I'm going to try the Selenium toning on a roll of portraits I just took that are a bit flat at 1to 5 and see what happens. BTW, I picked up a copy of that Tim Rudman toning book - can't wait to read it.
Holy 💩it worked! I got 1/2 stop increase in contrast at least! I toned the entire roll instead of a single negative which was easier. I ended up using 1:3 selenium ratio for ten minutes. That's so cool. I'm going to experiment more with it.
@@sbills Awesome! I figure that’s about what I got as well. Used 1:5 for the same time. Will prob mix up stronger for further toning! Happy printing 👍
Cool, i've had success with selenium toning negs as well. Did not know you could get similar effect bleaching and sepia toning.
Yeah and a bit more contrast too!
As always, a well presented if unusual aspect of B&W darkroom technique. There was a time decades ago when I studied these techniques and briefly explored selenium intensification. I also looked into mercury toning, but the published warnings over associated health risks of that process killed any interest I had. For what it's worth to anyone, my conclusion was that the results of negative toning were not reliably expectable, so it was more a "Hail Mary" salvation technique for bad negatives than an act of technical artistry. I think it is reasonably clear in the video, but those who missed the point, these toning techniques are a one way street. If you do not like the results, you cannot re-process the film to get home again or a do-over.
Thanks Randal, that is another reason I liked the selenium. Enough to give a little nudge but will not likely make anything blown out or unprintable.
I've tried selenium intensification a few times with limited success, but never with sepia; I'll have to try it. You should give Multigrade V a go, I much prefer it to IV. It comes out closer to the look of a fibre print.
Thanks Mike, I have heard good things about MG IV! Selenium is said in what I have read to be the mildest intensification.
Great video! I will definitely give this a try.
Thanks Chris, let us know your results 👍
Interesting that you tone the negative, rather then the print.
Another tool that can be used to increase global ( and local if applied locally) contrast. I tone nearly all of my prints too.
1:3 selenium toner , non destructive at 3 minutes and in control , after that no benefit . Test a dead neg of equal density before the good one . 1/2 to one grade of increased contrast . Good to gain some shadow contrast if you have some shadow detail to get
Hi lights have to be watched at 3 minutes , after that they will get uncontrollable .
Thanks! I will have to do some more testing!
With multi grade paper I think you could’ve used density filters and achieve the same effect !
Yes, most likely but this has been another great tool for me on top of that even. When I shoot roll film I now can consider what enlarger type I am printing on for a grade of contrast difference and another if I tone. This all before Using filters during printing. So, I still do that just now have another tool.
Find it very helpful if a roll has mixed contrast. I can lean a little soft and than add contrast to the images that need it.
Pure gold!
Thank you!
@@Distphoto i have to thank YOU!
@@Raumweiter your welcome!
great video! how would you characterize the difference between toning negatives and increasing the contrast grade when printing? I really get the local toning idea and definitely plan to experiment with that though.
Do not have a ton of direct comparison to go by… but the toning is significantly weighted more to the highlights in the print.
The dense part of the negs tone more than the thin parts.
So it is a bit more isolated to the higher values but does give a global increase.
So locally bringing out highlights would seem to be a good application.
thanks for your reply, @@Distphoto - ah ok got it, so even if you were toning the whole print indiscriminately the the highlights go harder than the shadows so in theory compared to printing at a higher contrast grade you would expect to preserve more of the shadow detail that might otherwise get crushed if simply jumping from grade 2.5 to grade 4+ or something?
Hi I've used Adox Selenium on B&W 35mm negs to try to increase contrast, however I have seen no visible difference on what are sadly thin negs due to I think weak developer. Can you please offer and advice as to where I might be going wrong ?
Depending on how much silver is there with Selenium you should get a slight increase. If they are really thin you might not be able to notice it by eye and may need to test with printing. Try a strong Selenium for 5- 7min. Hope that helps a bit...
Just to clarify I put the developer ID11 in the fridge. Something I don't normally do. Do you think it's too cold. I usually buy a 1ltr pack but because I had quite a few rolls I decided to get a 5ltr pack. So I've used the mix on several rolls already with no problems, however after using the developer after being in the fridge and only at 20c I find the negs are quite thin. Any help you can offer would be great. Thanks in advance.
Putting the developer in the fridge will not harm it.
However, the cooler the developer is the less active it will be.
That is why the development was less and the negs looked thin most likely (unless the developer is exhausted - see below).
You could extend the development or warm it up some.
Also if you are re-using the developer it may be getting exhausted which will also give thin negatives and if that is the case mix up fresh developer.
I always use mine as one shot but many people do re-use and replenish.
@@Distphoto It was fresh developer and it's the only thing I did differently. I've ordered a fresh packet and I'll keep it in the cupboard as I usually do. In all my years I've never had such a bad run of negs so I have to put it down to the fridge having an adverse reaction on the chemicals. Anyway thank you for your comments they are much appreciated.
Chromium intensification left spots on my negative.
That sucks. Good to know, Thanks!
@@Distphoto Thanks. Really wasn't worth the diffeence I got. But, I think I dipped it in the solution twice which was a mistake.