It's always better to put a chamfer instead of a fillet at the bottom of a part for 3D printing. Reason being that the overhang is 90° at the base of a fillet (i.e. impossible to cleanly print without supports), whereas you can choose the overhang angle with a chamfer (usually 45°, but in vase mode I would rather go for 30°).
or bite the bullet and leave the fillet/chamfer out completely. i would think that the fillet is the reason for the bottle leaking bc of what you mentioned, i have printed more or less watertight little schnaps-glasses from PET before - this shouldn't compromise the looks of the bottle too much. nice fusion360 tut btw!
Absolutely, if the dimension of the first layer is not very important, I would also usually not bother with a chamfer. But sometimes, since my first layer is usually set at 80-90% height to have better adhesion, adding a chamfer can also help not having the first layer be wider than the rest of the model. It could also help unstick the model from the bed if you slide your scraper underneath.
I know Im randomly asking but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any tips you can give me.
@Allan Jayceon Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Nice video. Just a quick Fusion tip. Rather than going into the sketch and editing it, you can just drag the sketch points around. The 3d features built off the sketch will update in real time which can make it easier to make something that looks right. This blew my mind and I use it all the time now!
Hey Angus, I've experimented a bit with water proof printing for research purposes and have found some tricks to make it work. For PET crank your heated build plate to 100 C and your nozzle to 250. The key is to over extrude at around 110%. you also want to print at 100 microns or smaller. Layers will essentially melt together before they harden because of the heat and overextrusion. I've been able to make prints that hold water for over 15 hours. The sides will have trouble being waterproof but if the build plate is glass, I can almost guarantee the bottom will be waterproof
Great video! Very noble effort! Kind of reminds me of a mostly unrelated historical (yet similar) effort that happened in China during the 1950s. As part of Chairman Mao's "Great Leap Forward", the communities around the country were encouraged to help catch up to the industrial might of England and the U.S., by manufacturing steel. Unfortunately, almost none of these communities knew how to make steel. So, they gathered, collected, or coerced every bit of iron-bearing metal from everyone. Plows, shovels, bed springs, spoons, pots, pick axes, picture frames, spectacles, etc. were all thrown into the scrap heap. Crude smelting furnaces were constructed and manned 24-hours a day. All of the coal and firewood used for cooking and heating was fed into the furnaces. After that was gone, all the trees were chopped down. After they were gone, people started to rip down signs, fences, and parts of their houses. (There are even stories that coffins were dug up to be used as firewood.) But, persistence eventually produced trickles of molten metal that congealed into ingots. These ingots were hammered and formed into tools, cookware, farming implements, etc. But, alas....the nails crumbled, hammers shattered, pots and pans cracked, and plowshares broke away with the first usages. Ultimately, these poor folks took useful items and exhausted their resources to make them useless. I guess the moral of both the steel and PET bottle stories is: Leave recycling to the experts. :)
14:10 -- It has steep angles. You've overlooked the circular fillets at the bottom that have all up to 90° horizontal overhang. Maybe it's leaking there (or the whole bottom if the fill density is not exactly right). At the bottom of prints I usually cut of circular fillets such that a sharp 45° edge remains. To make PET/PLA bottles/containers watertight one can dissolve food grade PS Plastik (from white supermarket joghurt containers / transparent party shotglasses) in acetone or MEK and use the slurry to coat the inside of the bottle. This works pretty well.
good call, the underside fillet might well be the source of leaking though I was hoping the 3 bottom layers would be enough to 'cap it off', I will replace that part with a chamfer and give that a shot.
That was good. Sure, you thought goofy about printing the bottle from bottles, but it proves the circle can be complete and yes.... I learned something about Fusion360. Guess I have to start playing with making bottles now, I was impressed with how yours looked. Good design, good video!
I just wanted to say I really like your quick Fusion 360 tutorial for this bottle. I liked the fact that it was quick and to the point but with enough detail to make someone say "Hey I can do this, let me play around" vs others who spend 4 hours explaining the same thing, or those that show it in 30 seconds and your left wondering what the magic was. Would have loved to see how you would do a cap with threads.
I have taken courses on Fusion 360, Sketchup and have tried Solidworks. Sketchup is nice, easy to use, but lacks what Fusion can give. I can easily make a rubik's cube in Sketchup, but I'd rather use Fusion.
I know you were upset that your subscribers wanted a bottle, but this was an excellent video for someone that has little CAD experience. Thank you for doing this, and it was highly entertaining.
i apprieciate the fusion 360 tutorial (and especially the effort to do things the right way!). learnt on autocad but i need to migrate to something less crap.
Angus, with the projected line and not being able to trim. Select it, right click and click on "break link". Then you should be able to edit the however you'd like
I want to trim it at that point yeah, but want it to still replicate the original. Solidworks does allow this kind of thing but it's certainly a lot more expensive and Fusion is releasing updates all the time.
I think you didn't need the replica at all. The thing about sketches, as I'm learning myself, is that they're entirely separate entities from bodies, even if they are on a plane defined by a body face. Basically, the idea seems to be to sketch as much as of an object in a 3D "collapsed" to 2D style. It can look messy and complex, lines crossing each other etc. but all you need to do is select the relevant paths or surfaces later, when you decide to make features. And be aware, for eg., that extrude can be set to be offset from a plane, ie. a face! That way you can extrude complex shapes in parts out of a single sketch! In your case I think you could've just added another spline instead of that top vertical line, make it tangent so it doesn't give you trouble later and you could just use that and the lower part of the original spline as a path for the sweep. You would possibly need to break the original spline. You know what, I'm gonna try it right now. :) EDIT: Phew! It worked! But Fusion 360 fought me all the way! :) It needs to be three splines, since you can't seem to break a spline. *And they need to be drawn with the same "orientation"!* Ie, if you start from the bottom of the bottle the spline stops somewhere before the mouth. Then you draw two more splines from the end of the first one "upward", one to the mouth, one to nothing. Or the other way around if you're starting from the top. If you mix the orientations Fusion 360 gets confused when you select multiple paths later on. Probably doesn't know where this combined path begins and ends. Oh and same goes for that little straight tail at the bottom!
glad you are learning and using fusion a lot. Share your experiences and tricks - it is very useful for my project as well and I need know Fusion360 as well.
If I were to hazard a guess at your trim bug: You can't trim a spline curve since it requires defined points at the beginning and end. If you were to trim the geometry, then the spline curve could not longer be defined in the same way (cubic curves with checkpoints that agree in both location and derivative). By creating an offset, you have duplicated the pre-calculated line geometry, which can be safely trimmed without breaking the math that goes into the spline curve.
Try concentric infill for a more waterproof and much prettier bottom. I printed resin measuring & mixing cups from PETG and they worked perfectly. Rectilinear infill tends to leave gaps unless you use a very high infill overlap percentage. For bonus points, model a standard soda bottle thread on the bottle and then somehow get S3D to print that in vase mode...
Damn that is a good looking bottle, great design work and explanation mate! Fusion360 and Simplify3d is a great combo for rapid prototyping stuff like this. So, now that I have you here; What would be the best filament for use with lost mold metalcasting? Something that burns up fast without disturbing the greensand would be great, and it would increase the usage of my Wanhao 10 fold. (ea; I'm not waiting around until metalextruding printers become affordable) Cheers man, thanks for sharing!
I would go with a super clean, regular PLA - the milky white ones with nothing added. I know it works great for investment casting, but not sure about how well in sand.
You're probably gonna be at the experimental stage sooner than I am. I'm the printer guy, and one of my friends is the metalfoundry guy.. I've got one of those friendgroups that tries to diversify their hobbies. It kinda works out, once you find creative ways to link 'em together and make multi-stage projects.
You May have thought it was a joke, but the project was practical and with some tweeks I'm sure you could make a leak proof bottle Angus! The type of bottle I was thinking about was more along the lines of a Nalgene type water bottle or flask...any chance we could have a go at that? Anyways entertaining and educational as always!
Do you have any thoughts on the Snapmaker kickstarter? It has a base price of $200 and for $75 each you can supposedly add a cnc and laser engraver module. Seems too good to be true
Is it possible that making it thicker would make it water tight? What about making it twice the size so it's a usable practical bottle. Can you make the groves corkscrew for additional strength and style? Suddenly I'm very excited about bottles and I don't know why.
Thumbs up for the new "hair do" : ) Didn't Tom Hanks pull the opposite stunt in The Da Vinci Code where between consecutive scenes......he mysteriously had a hair cut.
Arent there ways to close the gap between layers? idk smth like using a heat gun to "melt" the surface of the print or thickening the walls of the print so that it'll be watertight?
I wonder how Fusion 360 compares to Autodesk Inventor, which I am used to. It's not super intuitive. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to offset the spline by 0 to be able to manipulate the shape in this case. I would not have thought of it, but there are other ways to go about it. I wish I knew which Autodesk product I should learn to use - or if learning one of them will help me learn the others. Some features seem to be core to both programs. Maybe each Autodesk program is just more complex than the last one? That'd be nice.
Regarding the trimming of the projected curve, it kind of makes sense that you can't trim it, as that makes it no longer a proper projection of the original curve. However, you can explicitly make it a standalone entity by right-clicking and select "break link". After that you can trim it all you want, but it will no longer update if you make changes to the shape or curve it was originally projected from. Another way to fix the sweep issue at the bottom of the bottle would be to actually create a new body (instead of cut) in the sweep, and then simply offset the bottom surface (shortcut Q) of the new body to extend it, and then combine cut it. Just a different method, not actually any easier or better than what you did.
I learnt solidworks in uni and you can do this kind of thing in it, but that is a very expensive bit of software... so I'll take the break link option. Thanks for the tip!
Hey Angus, quick question, you mentioned in the previous video that plastics that are being recycled are "deteriorating" in a way, over recycling "cycles"; why's that?
It has something to do with degradation of the polymer chains, but I'm certainly no expert! The more you reheat a plastic the more damaged and shorter the chains become, making the plastic more brittle. Something like that anyway :)
Angus, Does the Cetus 3D produces a better or similar quality print compared with the Duplicator I3 V2.1 ?? I had my money on the cetus but after watching some reviews of the Duplicator I3 V2.1 It just got me thinking again. the prints produced by the Duplicator I3 V2.1 is very nice but then the cetus3D is about 100$ less I just want to know which yields better quality print. Thanks
Angus, can you do one thing to the wanhao i3 v2? Do the z axis rods modification. I did it myself without testing really anything and it would be interesting to see if it actually does as much as some people say it does. That and the various cooler modifications. Like the diicooler or the cobra cooler.
I wouder if you can make bottles into filament by using Grant Thompson's method to make strands out of soda bottles by using a knife in a jig to cut it into a long thin string.
Hi Angus, after watching this video I decided to buy my first roll of PETG but I've been having some issues with getting it to stick to the bed. I've tried blue tape and hairspray but neither seem to be working, have you got any tips/tricks for printing with this material? (wanhao i3 v2) cheers!
Thanks :) it's sticking really well now. seems as though I'm having some issues with the infill however, simplify3d keeps producing stringy, messy, under-extruded infill which essentially ruins the print. I've tried lowering the print speed, increasing the extrusion width, and various other settings but am having no luck. I don't know if this is a common issue or if I'm doing something wrong. I'm fairly new to the software so I don't really know what else I can do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, or maybe even a video about settings for printing with PETG. Thanks again!
It's always better to put a chamfer instead of a fillet at the bottom of a part for 3D printing. Reason being that the overhang is 90° at the base of a fillet (i.e. impossible to cleanly print without supports), whereas you can choose the overhang angle with a chamfer (usually 45°, but in vase mode I would rather go for 30°).
or bite the bullet and leave the fillet/chamfer out completely. i would think that the fillet is the reason for the bottle leaking bc of what you mentioned, i have printed more or less watertight little schnaps-glasses from PET before - this shouldn't compromise the looks of the bottle too much. nice fusion360 tut btw!
Absolutely, if the dimension of the first layer is not very important, I would also usually not bother with a chamfer. But sometimes, since my first layer is usually set at 80-90% height to have better adhesion, adding a chamfer can also help not having the first layer be wider than the rest of the model. It could also help unstick the model from the bed if you slide your scraper underneath.
I'm thinking of testing both, the fillet is pretty, but most likely causing the leak. Stay tuned!
Valentin B. I
Its clear this person is not a designer
This whole concept just doesn't hold water ;)
Get out.
@@Smerpyderp r/angryupvote
I know Im randomly asking but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any tips you can give me.
@Armando Skylar instablaster :)
@Allan Jayceon Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
You guys are talking about fusion360, solidwork, but I, an intelectual, I use tinkercad ;-;
how about Microsoft 3d builder? :)
I have fusion 360 but i genuinely use tinkercad
Blender FTW
Get on my level ms paint 3d
Nah just type out g code in notepad++
"I'm gonna do it right, according to everybody on the internet" famous last words, after "hold my beer"
After doing my cad class, i have a whole new appreciation and perspective on how people make objects.
Very cool, thanks for teaching me sweep :)
Nice video. Just a quick Fusion tip. Rather than going into the sketch and editing it, you can just drag the sketch points around. The 3d features built off the sketch will update in real time which can make it easier to make something that looks right. This blew my mind and I use it all the time now!
Great Fusion 360 info, your videos and the comments generated are extremely helpfull.Love the tutourials.
Hey Angus, I've experimented a bit with water proof printing for research purposes and have found some tricks to make it work. For PET crank your heated build plate to 100 C and your nozzle to 250. The key is to over extrude at around 110%. you also want to print at 100 microns or smaller. Layers will essentially melt together before they harden because of the heat and overextrusion. I've been able to make prints that hold water for over 15 hours. The sides will have trouble being waterproof but if the build plate is glass, I can almost guarantee the bottom will be waterproof
This is why I love this channel, it's multi-dimensional. Nice quick tutorial about F360, I really gotta start working with it.
The levels of safety on testing a water bottle to see if it leaks, are over 9000!
Great video! Very noble effort!
Kind of reminds me of a mostly unrelated historical (yet similar) effort that happened in China during the 1950s. As part of Chairman Mao's "Great Leap Forward", the communities around the country were encouraged to help catch up to the industrial might of England and the U.S., by manufacturing steel. Unfortunately, almost none of these communities knew how to make steel. So, they gathered, collected, or coerced every bit of iron-bearing metal from everyone. Plows, shovels, bed springs, spoons, pots, pick axes, picture frames, spectacles, etc. were all thrown into the scrap heap. Crude smelting furnaces were constructed and manned 24-hours a day. All of the coal and firewood used for cooking and heating was fed into the furnaces. After that was gone, all the trees were chopped down. After they were gone, people started to rip down signs, fences, and parts of their houses. (There are even stories that coffins were dug up to be used as firewood.) But, persistence eventually produced trickles of molten metal that congealed into ingots. These ingots were hammered and formed into tools, cookware, farming implements, etc. But, alas....the nails crumbled, hammers shattered, pots and pans cracked, and plowshares broke away with the first usages. Ultimately, these poor folks took useful items and exhausted their resources to make them useless.
I guess the moral of both the steel and PET bottle stories is: Leave recycling to the experts. :)
This video REALLY helped me learn 360 better than a lot of tutorials have. Thanks. Nice bottle!
14:10 -- It has steep angles. You've overlooked the circular fillets at the bottom that have all up to 90° horizontal overhang. Maybe it's leaking there (or the whole bottom if the fill density is not exactly right). At the bottom of prints I usually cut of circular fillets such that a sharp 45° edge remains. To make PET/PLA bottles/containers watertight one can dissolve food grade PS Plastik (from white supermarket joghurt containers / transparent party shotglasses) in acetone or MEK and use the slurry to coat the inside of the bottle. This works pretty well.
good call, the underside fillet might well be the source of leaking though I was hoping the 3 bottom layers would be enough to 'cap it off', I will replace that part with a chamfer and give that a shot.
Maker's Muse cool, I was wondering the same thing, would like to see a quick follow-up if you do
That was good. Sure, you thought goofy about printing the bottle from bottles, but it proves the circle can be complete and yes.... I learned something about Fusion360. Guess I have to start playing with making bottles now, I was impressed with how yours looked. Good design, good video!
I just wanted to say I really like your quick Fusion 360 tutorial for this bottle. I liked the fact that it was quick and to the point but with enough detail to make someone say "Hey I can do this, let me play around" vs others who spend 4 hours explaining the same thing, or those that show it in 30 seconds and your left wondering what the magic was.
Would have loved to see how you would do a cap with threads.
Video idea: Make a tutorial on how to make a screwing mechanism (for example for a bottle or a selfmade screw)
Solidworks? Fusion 360? PFF! Sketchup masterrace for the win!
it is a bit harder to learn. note i have already tried sketchup
I have taken courses on Fusion 360, Sketchup and have tried Solidworks. Sketchup is nice, easy to use, but lacks what Fusion can give. I can easily make a rubik's cube in Sketchup, but I'd rather use Fusion.
Nice to see your process in Fusion 360. I'm sticking with open source tools for now, as I don't feel I'm missing out on too much. :-)
Yep, you always manage to pick up the gauntlet and run with it. Even if it started as a joke ... We love a challenge eh.
Great video as always Angus
YAY, you took my suggestion. That's awesome that you actually did it. :)
Panoreth 3D Printing same 😃 great idea! Haha
love going back to ur old vids to learn stuff
I know you were upset that your subscribers wanted a bottle, but this was an excellent video for someone that has little CAD experience. Thank you for doing this, and it was highly entertaining.
0:21 "I'm not sure let me check". That sarcasm is next level.
The preview model, especially in orange, makes it look like some sort of sci-fi food, like a lantern fruit in Subnautica.
i apprieciate the fusion 360 tutorial (and especially the effort to do things the right way!). learnt on autocad but i need to migrate to something less crap.
Angus, with the projected line and not being able to trim. Select it, right click and click on "break link". Then you should be able to edit the however you'd like
cool stuff, cheers! Shame it breaks relations like my copy then trim method does. Splines are evil.
Haha yeah, if you think about it though.. That is what you want to do isn't it. Break the link from the original so you can make changes?
I want to trim it at that point yeah, but want it to still replicate the original. Solidworks does allow this kind of thing but it's certainly a lot more expensive and Fusion is releasing updates all the time.
I think you didn't need the replica at all. The thing about sketches, as I'm learning myself, is that they're entirely separate entities from bodies, even if they are on a plane defined by a body face. Basically, the idea seems to be to sketch as much as of an object in a 3D "collapsed" to 2D style. It can look messy and complex, lines crossing each other etc. but all you need to do is select the relevant paths or surfaces later, when you decide to make features. And be aware, for eg., that extrude can be set to be offset from a plane, ie. a face! That way you can extrude complex shapes in parts out of a single sketch!
In your case I think you could've just added another spline instead of that top vertical line, make it tangent so it doesn't give you trouble later and you could just use that and the lower part of the original spline as a path for the sweep. You would possibly need to break the original spline. You know what, I'm gonna try it right now. :)
EDIT: Phew! It worked! But Fusion 360 fought me all the way! :) It needs to be three splines, since you can't seem to break a spline. *And they need to be drawn with the same "orientation"!* Ie, if you start from the bottom of the bottle the spline stops somewhere before the mouth. Then you draw two more splines from the end of the first one "upward", one to the mouth, one to nothing. Or the other way around if you're starting from the top. If you mix the orientations Fusion 360 gets confused when you select multiple paths later on. Probably doesn't know where this combined path begins and ends. Oh and same goes for that little straight tail at the bottom!
glad you are learning and using fusion a lot. Share your experiences and tricks - it is very useful for my project as well and I need know Fusion360 as well.
I love the demos for Fusion 360. Keep it up!
Thanks for using Fusion 360 in this example. Thats what I'm learning atm... 😀
Looking forward to that Fusion360 series!
If I were to hazard a guess at your trim bug:
You can't trim a spline curve since it requires defined points at the beginning and end. If you were to trim the geometry, then the spline curve could not longer be defined in the same way (cubic curves with checkpoints that agree in both location and derivative). By creating an offset, you have duplicated the pre-calculated line geometry, which can be safely trimmed without breaking the math that goes into the spline curve.
Yay, my comment got featured in the suggestion list of a video!
Sean Smithy me too!!! I don't know why I'm excited about that!!!
Nice project. I printed a lot of flower pots and I have only achieved a watertight bottom by using 6 layers and Polymaker Polymax as filament.
He looks like young Keanu Reeves
+Andy Ventura take the blue pill
I was thinking JC Chasez
Try concentric infill for a more waterproof and much prettier bottom. I printed resin measuring & mixing cups from PETG and they worked perfectly. Rectilinear infill tends to leave gaps unless you use a very high infill overlap percentage. For bonus points, model a standard soda bottle thread on the bottle and then somehow get S3D to print that in vase mode...
The World we live in... the Technology, the Advancements, the Possibilities!
How about trying a Klein bottle next time? Personally, I would like to know if a 3D printer can even print a Klein bottle.
That legit looks like it could go on a store shelve. You could call your sports drink Angusade perhaps?
TBH I'd probably make it an energy drink :P Angusade works lol
Maker's Muse made of liquid PETG
Considering that you only used one shell, The result turned out good. Two or three shells would be ideal for maximum water seal.
Thats was what I was thinking. Just shell it with a thicker wall? Would that work?
5:37 DID HE JUST SAY THE BOTTLE IS SUS 4 YEARS AGO????
This would be a good thing for watering plants over time ;D
keep up the fusion 360 videos! helps us out helps
hi
hope all is well
I was wondering if one could 3d print bottles that hold fluid and can withstand some pressure?
Damn that is a good looking bottle, great design work and explanation mate! Fusion360 and Simplify3d is a great combo for rapid prototyping stuff like this.
So, now that I have you here; What would be the best filament for use with lost mold metalcasting? Something that burns up fast without disturbing the greensand would be great, and it would increase the usage of my Wanhao 10 fold. (ea; I'm not waiting around until metalextruding printers become affordable)
Cheers man, thanks for sharing!
I would go with a super clean, regular PLA - the milky white ones with nothing added. I know it works great for investment casting, but not sure about how well in sand.
Plain ol' PLA, got it! I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the advice dude!
If you do please post a video, i would def be interested in trying that im building a furnace now
You're probably gonna be at the experimental stage sooner than I am. I'm the printer guy, and one of my friends is the metalfoundry guy.. I've got one of those friendgroups that tries to diversify their hobbies. It kinda works out, once you find creative ways to link 'em together and make multi-stage projects.
I know it's an old comment, but there are wax filaments on the market that supposedly burn up much cleaner than PLA.
Could you make it water tight by tweaking it with the heat gun?
Who else is watching this in the middle of the night while petting their cat three years after it was uploaded?
Actually 4😁
I think it leaked there because of the fillet, Wich is a steep overhang. I love your videos, and I learned a lot about fusion 360 thanks to you!
Wow. That actually looks like a bottle.
You May have thought it was a joke, but the project was practical and with some tweeks I'm sure you could make a leak proof bottle Angus! The type of bottle I was thinking about was more along the lines of a Nalgene type water bottle or flask...any chance we could have a go at that?
Anyways entertaining and educational as always!
You can tell he's a smart guy because he still has Windows 7 instead of Windows 10;)
Windows 13 is superior.
Guys cmon vista is best
I personally use windows 3.1
Do you have any thoughts on the Snapmaker kickstarter? It has a base price of $200 and for $75 each you can supposedly add a cnc and laser engraver module. Seems too good to be true
Then it is too good.
Yea the promises are a little much even for a kickstarter
Congratulations, you made a drip irrigation device for a large garden planter ;)
And it's cheap(doesn't count the printer price)
this was a great video! very informative!
nice design :-)
Thanks, I learnt a lot, very helpful... more please. :D
Is it possible that making it thicker would make it water tight?
What about making it twice the size so it's a usable practical bottle.
Can you make the groves corkscrew for additional strength and style?
Suddenly I'm very excited about bottles and I don't know why.
Could i make it watertight? with some spray or filler or something? Super cool video by the way.
Thumbs up for the new "hair do" : ) Didn't Tom Hanks pull the opposite stunt in The Da Vinci Code where between consecutive scenes......he mysteriously had a hair cut.
Arent there ways to close the gap between layers? idk smth like using a heat gun to "melt" the surface of the print or thickening the walls of the print so that it'll be watertight?
I suggest use flexible filament for some sort futuristic flat water bottle. Maybe this is water proof?
Very informative, I can’t help but see a butternut pumpkin
Hey Angus! Nice Video title lol!
If it was me, then I would recycle that printed bottle? :D
Angus, try coating this bottle with polyester resin (XTC 3d?) or a few honest coats with spray lacquer, that should make it watertight.
If I could ask:
Why vase mode? In order to go water tight you need at least 3 perimeters, vase mode is only one.
Do it again, except this time correctly...
It looks like a gourd. Haha. But nice! I want to learn how to design myself. I've just gotten a 3d printer two months ago and have been experimenting.
You gave me a great idea. Make stuff for Halloween for the kids to paint and put lights in. Pumpkins etc.
I can't stop thinking... "Reticulating splines" ok that dates me haha
I just learned a lot, thank you!
I wonder how Fusion 360 compares to Autodesk Inventor, which I am used to.
It's not super intuitive. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to offset the spline by 0 to be able to manipulate the shape in this case. I would not have thought of it, but there are other ways to go about it.
I wish I knew which Autodesk product I should learn to use - or if learning one of them will help me learn the others.
Some features seem to be core to both programs. Maybe each Autodesk program is just more complex than the last one? That'd be nice.
can i ask what speed do you use when printing a bottle like that . XX mm/s ?
Well Done! Thank You!
So we told Angus to make a bottle.. he actually did it the absolute madman hahahahahahahahaha!
Don't forget food grade silicone spray if you want to drink from it
Can you explain more? Link to an acceptable product?
the video is too raw man
Regarding the trimming of the projected curve, it kind of makes sense that you can't trim it, as that makes it no longer a proper projection of the original curve.
However, you can explicitly make it a standalone entity by right-clicking and select "break link". After that you can trim it all you want, but it will no longer update if you make changes to the shape or curve it was originally projected from.
Another way to fix the sweep issue at the bottom of the bottle would be to actually create a new body (instead of cut) in the sweep, and then simply offset the bottom surface (shortcut Q) of the new body to extend it, and then combine cut it. Just a different method, not actually any easier or better than what you did.
I learnt solidworks in uni and you can do this kind of thing in it, but that is a very expensive bit of software... so I'll take the break link option. Thanks for the tip!
Nice!
Wonder if you would have put acetone in it if it would fuse the holes shut and maybe make it a little more transparent
What setting do you need to print with this filament? Is it like PLA? keep up the good work
I want to get into 3D modeling, do you have any suggestions on good tutorial videos or what modeling software to use.
looks great, a little bit like tupperware's bottles :P
Hey Angus, quick question, you mentioned in the previous video that plastics that are being recycled are "deteriorating" in a way, over recycling "cycles"; why's that?
It has something to do with degradation of the polymer chains, but I'm certainly no expert! The more you reheat a plastic the more damaged and shorter the chains become, making the plastic more brittle. Something like that anyway :)
I see, Thanks!
Angus,
Does the Cetus 3D produces a better or similar quality print compared
with the Duplicator I3 V2.1 ??
I had my money on the cetus but after watching some reviews of the Duplicator I3 V2.1
It just got me thinking again.
the prints produced by the Duplicator I3 V2.1 is very nice but then the cetus3D is about 100$ less
I just want to know which yields better quality print.
Thanks
Can you use it as a sieve like filter in water filtration/purification? Any way to print straight carbon?
Nice trick with the offset. :D
Can you make a videos about your tircks?
instead of lofting the circle for the ribs you can just select the line and create pipe! since its a simple circle
This may have been commented upon several times, but a vase, printed in vase mode, cannot be used as a vase. Am I correct?
No no no... you make a bottle from recycled phone cases! Geez, Angus...
I don't have a 3D printer, I have never used a 3D printer, and I probably never will use a 3D printer, yet I watched this all the way through.
Aww I thought you were going to add a built in straw
Can you Flip it?
omg I see al types of comments that are smart and... there's u
Rain bow Awsome
wow. yea cause your comment here is pure genius?
THAT TREND IS DEAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
God dammit
Angus, can you do one thing to the wanhao i3 v2?
Do the z axis rods modification.
I did it myself without testing really anything and it would be interesting to see if it actually does as much as some people say it does.
That and the various cooler modifications.
Like the diicooler or the cobra cooler.
I'm sticking with OnShape for now, but I have been using F360's CAM functions, since it is Mac compatible, for my MPCNC.
I stopped using OnShape the moment they castrated the free plan - I only like releasing designs once they're at least semi complete...
Autodesk does have a great licensing model.
Angus, can you make a video about the brand names of plastics?
You just need thicker walls to make it watertight. Ive printed cups without any issues but they werent bottle thin.
Real bottles are made from a small cylinder and puffed up with compressed air, if you wanted to know.
vase mode killed it.
I wouder if you can make bottles into filament by using Grant Thompson's method to make strands out of soda bottles by using a knife in a jig to cut it into a long thin string.
I wonder if you could pattern threads into the top part for a lid of sorts
Hi Angus, after watching this video I decided to buy my first roll of PETG but I've been having some issues with getting it to stick to the bed. I've tried blue tape and hairspray but neither seem to be working, have you got any tips/tricks for printing with this material? (wanhao i3 v2) cheers!
Try some glue stick, works great for me :) Make sure you're extruding hot enough and a nice, slow first layer!
Thanks :) it's sticking really well now. seems as though I'm having some issues with the infill however, simplify3d keeps producing stringy, messy, under-extruded infill which essentially ruins the print. I've tried lowering the print speed, increasing the extrusion width, and various other settings but am having no luck. I don't know if this is a common issue or if I'm doing something wrong. I'm fairly new to the software so I don't really know what else I can do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, or maybe even a video about settings for printing with PETG. Thanks again!