Use mastic and or 2 part epoxy with a bolt down kit after you smooth out the concrete with a grinder brush. Bring a torch and heat the concrete up to dry it up and clean it 🫡🫡
Currently dealing with blockage I think I should go throw the inlet pipe that comes from the house to clear it up this video helped because I have only the outlet capped but the inlet side is is not exposed.
Sometimes there will be a cleanout pipe sticking up between the house and the septic tank. If so, the cap can be removed and that's a good way to check for blockage. Have someone flush a toilet or leave a tap running and you should see water running through..
I've found my inlet, wondering how far away were the two openings, ie. the distance between the inlet and outlet covers. Thank you for the video BTW. :)
curious why the base isn't sealed and screwed down into the tank? if the concrete around the base were to crack couldn't that be a way for groundwater to seep into the tank?
Thx for video. I dug up my septic that is 6ft deep. I want to put risers on top of the 2 cement lids. I see 2 sizes are available, 18" and 24". How do i know which diameter to use?
I measured from corner to corner of my septic tank lid since it was square. This way I was able to pick a diameter that would encircle the largest distance (corner to corner)
There is also the type that uses 24 inch double walled PVC pipe as the riser.. Its the same pipe they use to extend the road drainage ditches under driveways. If you're going down 6 feet this is going to get very expensive using these stackable rings.. These things are not cheap!.. But a 12 foot length of that pipe you might be able to find a length that somebody is getting rid of.
STOP DO NOTnstall this way. Do not fill the lid with concrete , this will only make the lid very heavy The ribs give strength to the top . Clean the top of the tank around the lid and add asphalt caulking to the bottom of the flange ring ,also the tank where the flange sets this will prevent roots getting I into the tank .Secure the flange to the tank with 3 self taping concrete screws in the screw holes provided.. Add asphalt caulking to the bottom side of the riser and screw to the tank flange to seal the connection. If using more than 1 riser seal each bottom and attach with screws. Install the self sealing lid with screws . Use a fair amount of asphalt caulking. Silicone caulking is not compatible with asphalt caulking Do Not use together. Cementing the flange to the dirt on the tank and the plastic is a pathway for roots to get into the septic tank . Asphalt Roof caulking will make a good bond between the tank and the plastic flanged if the surface is good and clean .
That’s fair, and likely the best practice honestly. This is just how I did it at the time. Luckily I don’t have trees anywhere remotely close to my tank so I wasn’t concerned with roots. Hopefully I won’t have too much issue with water creeping in is my only worry..
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I read you're not supposed to bury these and they're supposed to be 2 inches above ground level. The whole goal is for it to be easy and quick access.
Use mastic and or 2 part epoxy with a bolt down kit after you smooth out the concrete with a grinder brush. Bring a torch and heat the concrete up to dry it up and clean it 🫡🫡
Currently dealing with blockage I think I should go throw the inlet pipe that comes from the house to clear it up this video helped because I have only the outlet capped but the inlet side is is not exposed.
Sometimes there will be a cleanout pipe sticking up between the house and the septic tank. If so, the cap can be removed and that's a good way to check for blockage. Have someone flush a toilet or leave a tap running and you should see water running through..
My neighbors have 2 of these right next to each other. Now all I can smell is the shit totally cool
Well done, informative and exactly what I was looking for....thank you.
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful
I've found my inlet, wondering how far away were the two openings, ie. the distance between the inlet and outlet covers. Thank you for the video BTW. :)
Hey thanks! My lids are probably 4-5 feet apart.
curious why the base isn't sealed and screwed down into the tank? if the concrete around the base were to crack couldn't that be a way for groundwater to seep into the tank?
We did the same to by bosses 2 houses they came out nice too.
Good deal. Yeah it’s a little more work/cost upfront but at least you won’t have to dig so deep each time now
@@WesleyAllenNC Agree that's the reason he did it that way too
Thx for video. I dug up my septic that is 6ft deep. I want to put risers on top of the 2 cement lids. I see 2 sizes are available, 18" and 24". How do i know which diameter to use?
I measured from corner to corner of my septic tank lid since it was square. This way I was able to pick a diameter that would encircle the largest distance (corner to corner)
Do they come in different depths also?
@@magwed4120 yeah there a few different depths available. They may even be stackable?
There is also the type that uses 24 inch double walled PVC pipe as the riser.. Its the same pipe they use to extend the road drainage ditches under driveways. If you're going down 6 feet this is going to get very expensive using these stackable rings.. These things are not cheap!.. But a 12 foot length of that pipe you might be able to find a length that somebody is getting rid of.
👍
STOP DO NOTnstall this way.
Do not fill the lid with concrete , this will only make the lid very heavy
The ribs give strength to the top .
Clean the top of the tank around the lid and add asphalt caulking to the bottom of the flange ring ,also the tank where the flange sets this will prevent roots getting I into the tank .Secure the flange to the tank with 3 self taping concrete screws in the screw holes provided..
Add asphalt caulking to the bottom side of the riser and screw to the tank flange to seal the connection. If using more than 1 riser seal each bottom and attach with screws. Install the self sealing lid with screws .
Use a fair amount of asphalt caulking. Silicone caulking is not compatible with asphalt caulking Do Not use together.
Cementing the flange to the dirt on the tank and the plastic is a pathway for roots to get into the septic tank . Asphalt
Roof caulking will make a good bond between the tank and the plastic flanged if the surface is good and clean .
That’s fair, and likely the best practice honestly. This is just how I did it at the time. Luckily I don’t have trees anywhere remotely close to my tank so I wasn’t concerned with roots. Hopefully I won’t have too much issue with water creeping in is my only worry..