Thank you all for checking out my channel! If you enjoy this type of content, don’t forget to like and Subscribe! I post videos, just like this, every week! youtube.com/@gunplaandchill?sub_confirmation=1 Hope to see you on the next one. Happy Building! 🍻
I recommend waiting a few minutes to clean up the panel lines, especially if they’re really small and then get a q-tip with barely any alcohol(or whatever solvent your particular paint needs) then rub it perpendicular to the panel line. New kits don’t use ABS plastic(which will get eaten by a lot of paint and the pour type Gundam markers), but if you get old kits, just to be safe, panel line before assembly.
I’ll definitely keep that in mind. I see tons of shorts where they use an exacto knife to make the panel line more defined, and then drip the liquid panel line straight down. It look really cool and well done. So you say panel line before assembly? Even when using Gundam markers?
@ Apparently ABS is fine with the pine point tip markers, but I was told to do it before to be extra cautious. With non ABS kits, I prefer to panel line after the part (like the head, arm, ect.) is done. It gives you something to hold onto and you don’t have to worry about the rest of the kit moving around or getting in your way. The pour type markers and panel line paint contain a solvent that corrodes the ABS. It’s generally dangerous to use it when the parts are assembled since it might leak into the ABS inner frame. Some people also still panel line before assembly or while still on the runners with the pour type markers if the kit doesn’t have any ABS. . The pour markers and other “flowing panel line paints” (where you dab and let the paint flow through the panel lines) often contain a solvent that will corrode even PS plastic, but you’re fine as long as the piece has air to let the solvent evaporate. ABS is just a lot more susceptible to corrosion. I just stick to the pine point pens since they’re generally safe on anything. I’ve tried scribing a bit with a hobby knife, it’s pretty tricky. The small panel lines also need to be drawn over a bit more with the fine point markers to get the ink in there. Generally speaking though, most panel lines are deep enough to not worry about the ink getting rubbed off during cleanup. I have just found that if you let it dry a bit, the results are cleaner.
@ I only started last summer, I just did a lot of research. I think I forgot to mention, but in the manuals and on the runners, they will say what type of plastic is used. There’s extra precautions people use like top coating, but I’ve never done it, so I don’t really know how to do it.
I bought this for my sister for christmas. Though you got the char aznable version, I got her the normal zaku II, the green boy. It's such a good product, and surprisingly for what it is mostly inexpensive.
Exactly! I almost feel like it’s a steal. It’s basically a giant HG with REALLY great details and panel lines. I’ve gotta check out the Green Zaku next. Then my Mega Size collection will be complete lol. Thanks for checking out my channel, and I hope to catch you on the next one 🍻
@@GunplaandChill lol there's 6 mega size! grandpa, both zakus, unicorn are the ones most people think of. But there's also the two AGE-1 and AGE-2. Those ones are cool and have some LED lightup featuers! :)
![[ASMR BUILD] MEGA SIZE Char’s Zaku II 1/48 Full Build | Speed Build](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6XZB-GXRM6g/mqdefault.jpg)
![[ASMR BUILD] MEGA SIZE Char’s Zaku II 1/48 Full Build | Speed Build](/img/tr.png)
![[ASMR UNBOXING] MG GOD GUNDAM 1/100 | First Impressions](/img/n.gif)
Thank you all for checking out my channel!
If you enjoy this type of content, don’t forget to like and Subscribe! I post videos, just like this, every week!
youtube.com/@gunplaandchill?sub_confirmation=1
Hope to see you on the next one.
Happy Building! 🍻
I recommend waiting a few minutes to clean up the panel lines, especially if they’re really small and then get a q-tip with barely any alcohol(or whatever solvent your particular paint needs) then rub it perpendicular to the panel line.
New kits don’t use ABS plastic(which will get eaten by a lot of paint and the pour type Gundam markers), but if you get old kits, just to be safe, panel line before assembly.
I’ll definitely keep that in mind.
I see tons of shorts where they use an exacto knife to make the panel line more defined, and then drip the liquid panel line straight down. It look really cool and well done.
So you say panel line before assembly? Even when using Gundam markers?
@ Apparently ABS is fine with the pine point tip markers, but I was told to do it before to be extra cautious.
With non ABS kits, I prefer to panel line after the part (like the head, arm, ect.) is done. It gives you something to hold onto and you don’t have to worry about the rest of the kit moving around or getting in your way.
The pour type markers and panel line paint contain a solvent that corrodes the ABS. It’s generally dangerous to use it when the parts are assembled since it might leak into the ABS inner frame. Some people also still panel line before assembly or while still on the runners with the pour type markers if the kit doesn’t have any ABS. . The pour markers and other “flowing panel line paints” (where you dab and let the paint flow through the panel lines) often contain a solvent that will corrode even PS plastic, but you’re fine as long as the piece has air to let the solvent evaporate. ABS is just a lot more susceptible to corrosion.
I just stick to the pine point pens since they’re generally safe on anything.
I’ve tried scribing a bit with a hobby knife, it’s pretty tricky. The small panel lines also need to be drawn over a bit more with the fine point markers to get the ink in there.
Generally speaking though, most panel lines are deep enough to not worry about the ink getting rubbed off during cleanup. I have just found that if you let it dry a bit, the results are cleaner.
@ wow, this is excellent detail. Thank you.
If you don’t mind my asking, how long have you been in the hobby?
@ I only started last summer, I just did a lot of research.
I think I forgot to mention, but in the manuals and on the runners, they will say what type of plastic is used.
There’s extra precautions people use like top coating, but I’ve never done it, so I don’t really know how to do it.
welcome to the hobby
@@SD-vp5vo thank you, and thanks for watching! How long have you been in the hobby?
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I bought this for my sister for christmas. Though you got the char aznable version, I got her the normal zaku II, the green boy.
It's such a good product, and surprisingly for what it is mostly inexpensive.
Exactly! I almost feel like it’s a steal.
It’s basically a giant HG with REALLY great details and panel lines.
I’ve gotta check out the Green Zaku next. Then my Mega Size collection will be complete lol.
Thanks for checking out my channel, and I hope to catch you on the next one 🍻
@@GunplaandChill lol there's 6 mega size! grandpa, both zakus, unicorn are the ones most people think of. But there's also the two AGE-1 and AGE-2. Those ones are cool and have some LED lightup featuers! :)
that picture with a qtip wants you to roll it on the surface and not brush it, so it does not tear the decal
@@SD-vp5vo that’s correct! I know I probably just need to improve my rolling technique, or I likely should’ve stopped rolling sooner than I did.