when I would bolt the intake and exhaust manifolds together I would leave the 2 bolts and 2 nuts just snug till the manifolds were tightened onto the cylinder head. then tighten them good.
You really should just snug the intake to exh bolts until you get the manifolds mounted on the head and the manifold nuts just snugged up. This allows the manifolds to align with the head with no stress. Then work up to torque or full tight in steps.
Did that on a customers ‘48 Chevy 3800 Pickup. The exhaust manifold was cracked when he bought it. Bought a good used one off ebay and installed it the same way as you explained; slowly tightened all fasteners so that everything seats properly in place with minimal stress points.
One of the most Valuable and authentic aspects of your work is to Include and discuss when things go wrong. Like a broken 40 - odd year old brass fitting for example. That's what happens to us amateurs out here, usually on a Sunday just before a Public holiday so you Cant get a new part for a week. Sods Law.
I didn't run into your channel until about 2 weeks ago. I have been catching up and I am impressed. I love my old cars too but they are a little different than yours but is any old car really too different from any other old car... except French cars! You work so well with what you have and get results. Bobby
my first car was a gift from my grandfather in 1960 a 48 style master 2 door chevrolet. very rusty from minnesota salt. gas was 24.9c/gallon and at 40 mph the car got 25mpg so 100 miles on a dollar. the old 216 was reliable and efficient.
The forward motion of the car causes a "draft" across the lower part of the tube creating a low pressure within the road draft tube which sucks the crankcase fumes out. That's why it's cut on an angle. Air enters through the vents in the rocker arm cover into the engine and circulates through the crankcase, and finally gets sucked out via the draft tube. If you see smoke coming out of the draft tube, you've got worn piston rings. I like your videos and the old Stovebolt 216 engine.
I did a complete rebuild on two 216's and they are a fun engine to work on. The glass bowl fuel pumps are cool looking. The originals had a brass screen in them instead of the paper filter. You could visually inspect them for dirt and clean them by unscrewing a nut on top of the pump to remove the glass bowl.
@@TheJayhawker I just rebuilt my 1937 216. I had the engine completely rebuilt and the carb completely redone by the Old Carb Doctor in NC. The engine starts fine, and runs fine at full throttle but bucks at part load.This spring on my truck is broken.Would hot intake air all the time cause a stumble or miss at part load? Thanks-
@@jacktyler6475 I believe it would. I have a1955 with an original 235 in it and I took it out for a cruise the other day and it started hesitating when I stepped on the accelerator pedal . When I came back I inspected the engine and found that the thermostatic spring was missing. You could always wire the valve closed with bailing wire. So the valve is in the OPEN position when the engine is cold and rotates counter clockwise (when viewed from the front of the engine) to the closed position once the engine warms up. I live in SoCal so it doesn't get that cold and is not a daily driver. I had a new spring on it but it must have fallen off I guess I didn't pinch the slot that the center part of the spring slides into. Good luck
Make certain not to tighten the intake manifold to exhaust manifold until on engine. makes the intake and exhaust fit to head flush then tighten to specks after all bolts
That is not just a common spring it is made of bimetallic material that expands as it heats up it is a heat riser. Pretty good technology for the time and it did work. I have seen people remove the shaft and tap the holes install a bolt then cut it off smooth and not worry about the heat riser then complain about cold start problems
at 7:00 you should have waited until the manifolds were "mated" to the engine block before tightening them together to be certain they were squared to each other.
That's the great thing about video...Yes indeed I should have, and I believe in the next video I correct it, among other things. This stuff sure keeps a guy humble. Thanks for watching.
Well I just seen this and I agree with some of the other guys that you should have just loosened it the manifold and then turn it up all together after you get it connected to the head but some people just don't listen cuz they're not that smart and they think they know what they're doing but anyway good job guys I understand what you're saying so I'm going to continue to watch some of these other ones
Just found this video and so glad I did as you explain the heat control valve so well. Mine is stuck open so all that hot exhaust is permanently heating the fuel mix. I have a 46 pickup with a 216 motor and the 4.11 diff. Not the fastest car in the world but mine is flat out at 40 mph. Everyone tells me it should go a lot faster than that. Do you think the valve being stuck open could cause it to run out of puff?
Well, I’ve answered my own question. I loosened up the valve and installed a new spring. It definitely makes a big difference. From struggling at 40 mph, my ute will now easily do 50 mph. I still have other issues like the vacuum advance not working at all, but I’m pretty happy that a working heat control valve has made a huge difference
I’ve been looking for that thermostatic coil spring for my grandfather’s 1959 Biscayne (has the good old original 235) and my 1965 GMC’s 250. Good to know they’re still produced. Yippee! Update: Just broke the shaft by trying to remove the broken bit of the center of the spring with a screwdriver. 😟 Gotta find a new exhaust manifold now that has the heat riser (I don’t really feel like cutting the flap off the shaft, removing a shaft from another manifold, and welding it back in...). Just thought I’d share this so that now we know how easy it is to break these shafts!
sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot the password. I would love any assistance you can offer me.
@Lawrence Kieran thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
What is the brown-tinted sealant you are using on the fuel fittings? I have a thicker PTFE sealant and would also like to get a can of the thinner stuff.
i have a 1950 chevrolet 3100 truck with a 235 engine. have problem with no oil getting to top of rockers. checked all lines they are clear. removed oil pan test oil pump working but noticed oil going to oil pan looked at the oil distributor valve looks ok. only get oil to top when i plug off the oil distributor valve and the pressure gauge port. then i get oil to main bearings and to the rockers what could be wrong , any information would be helpful, thanks.
The oil tube comes up through the head and takes a 90* turn towards the rocker shaft. On the bottom of the tube right after the 90* turn there should be a hole in the tube. Is there any oil coming out of that? I suspect a plugged line or junk built up in the rocker shaft. I'm not implying you, but perhaps there has been years of prolonged oil changes and little use of the vehicle, also never really getting the car out for long drives that allow everything to get good and hot that burns out moisture. Get back to me with what you find or any more questions.
@@TheJayhawker if i remove the oil distributor valve and block it off with a plate then i get oil going to the top. i have blown out all lines, and even the orifice where it comes out of the passenger side of the block is all clear and oil comes out. but when i put the valve back in i just get oil to the bottom even when i turn the oil pump slowly with a drill..i think the valve is bad?
I’m having a bear of a time getting the intake/exhaust manifold back on my 235. I have the bolts on the manifold loose to allow movement during install but the intake rings (that I have installed in the head) just don’t want to slide into the manifold. Any advice? Maybe lightly sand the edges of the intake rings?
First of all, I'm just curious if this is something you took apart and are now reassembling it or are they salvaged parts that you're putting together? Can you get the rings to go into the manifold while it is on your workbench? If it is close I don't see a problem putting a slight bevel on the edge to get things started.
@@TheJayhawker well.. I had original rings until I smashed them trying to put the manifold on. Now I have new rings and they’re a bit beefier than stock. But yes, I can get them in the manifold while on workbench
I have a 51 - 2 Door Chevy Deluxe Style Line. I have installed a new mechanical fuel pump. It is not working? is there a push rod or something that it has to press against? I did miss a step? I did not find any push rod?
I need your help buddy. My 48 fleetmaster fuel pump will not deliver fuel to carb. I have changed fuel pumps. Taken them off and on numerous times. Have turned over engine to different spots on cam and nothing. I am bypassing all old fuel lines and gas tank. Car does run I have filled carb with fuel and all works. Only thing left if if cam lobe is worn out and not pumping the pump fully. Any thoughts before I try to rig up electric pump? Thanks
Is this a vehicle you have had running since you have owned it? Because the only other possibility is that the old pump was the wrong one and you bought a new one to match. I'm not trying to insult your intelligence but you know, stuff happens. But first I would blow air through your fuel lines and make sure there is no blockage, look for kinks as well and if there is a section of rubber line for a filter or anything make sure it is open as well. Then with all connections tightened do what I did to prime the fuel lines at the beginning of this video: ua-cam.com/video/kxgjytm2JHk/v-deo.html Now you have everything primed and fuel in the carb. If it still doesn't take off you have one more possibility, bad gas in the tank. If it's old ethanol gas it may absolutely refuse to run on it depending on how old it is. If you check all of these it about has to be the cam lobe. Let me know what you find out
@@TheJayhawker the fuel pump is the same as what was on it, also matches the one you put on. Only thing I haven't done is try with the fuel tank and blow air through it like you did. Not sure whats in the tank so that's why I was bypassing it with a gas can. I will connect the lines and try that next. I am not sure when the car actually ran last. License plate in trunk was from 67. Could be reason car was parked because they had the same problem im having. I'll give it a try! BTW Iive in western Kansas, what part are you from. Thanks for the advice.
Hi thanks for making video, torn mine off yesterday my question is I seen another video or posting. They said leave intake to exhaust loose untill once you get it mounted to head. I guess that would insure both intake and exhaust mount flush to head. Then tighten those mounting bolts. I'm not saying you did anything wrong but I'm seeing two different ways, did you happen to start the engine yet, any issues. Thanks for doing video
Yeah sorry, that's embarrassing. Thanks for catching that! You certainly do want to only have them snug until they are tight on the head. Boy, that makes me want to blitz the video.....
@@TheJayhawker I think you did a great video and I think everyone else would agree to that, from the beginning to the end. You hit two topics I I'm doing on my truck, I'm also replacing the heat riser spring. Mine was binder wire tied wide open. So I'm fixing that. I'll be looking forward to more of your videos. To me it just makes sense to leave those bolts a little loose so both the intake and exhaust mount flush to head. Then lock them down. All good I enjoyed it
@@TheJayhawker I have a 1952 chevy 216 (in a 1953 Chevy 3100 truck) it does not have that spring. I dont see the slot either for it on the rod either. Did they do away with the spring by 52?
Sorry, I started making videos after I had already done all of that on this project. But if you shoot over to my channel and watch the videos on the 1966 C20 pickup you can watch the process on that engine. It is about 18 years newer but the process is pretty much the same.
You said if the heat riser is open when hot would be detrimental. What problems can this create? My 51 is stuck open. can't move it by hand. don't want to snap it. Anyway, learned a lot from your videos.
There would probably be a lot of debate to this question, it's just one of those things. But basically (in my opinion) a engine runs poorly in cold weather even with a choke. So they put a temperature controlled flap between the two manifolds to provide heat to the intake when the ambient temp. was cold. Warm air/fuel atomizes better so that makes sense. The down side of it being stuck open would probably only be noticed in warm weather. If you have fought any issues with vapor lock, pre-detonation, having to run it richer etc. By the time the small block v8 came along they had a permanent exhaust passages heating the bottom of the intake. Oh and I love your name, Arnold Ziffel, hilarious!
@@TheJayhawker Hi from Bugtussle. As it warms up I'm feeling like the engine is sputtering at all speeds, light backfire when back off the gas, even trying to die when I come to a stop. when I pull the choke out the engine smooths right out. Runs fine with the choke out. Would you think this could be the heat riser stuck open?
@@MrWhylie I would expect pinging or dieseling when you shut the ignition off but probably not this problem. Check for a vacuum leak with engine running squirt carb or brake cleaner around carb mount at the intake as well as the throttle plate shaft going through the carb body and see if the engine rpm changes. If not that I would suspect that you have crud in the carb jet or a passage.
haha, yes I certainly did. I wanted to demonstrate how it worked but it made me nervous using a torch on a (I'm sure) foreign made spring. Hey, at least I don't hide or edit these things out right?
Next video will be testing and working on gen. and starter. Then will be the entire cooling system and hopefully put the spurs to 'er! What are you hoping to see in regards to the water pump? I was hoping to find a reasonably priced rebuild kit but couldn't a new pump was much cheaper.
@@TheJayhawker just looking to see you putting on your water pump, I replaced mine but seems to be leaking again. Not sure if I got a bad one or I messed up installing it. Having issues with my 53 216 not wanting to start. Do you have any experience in trouble shooting.
@@nickpanhead7209 On the water pump there should be a weep hole on the bottom of the casting where the shaft goes into body of the water pump. Check to see if your leak is there or just the gasket. Start with checking for spark, if you don't have a spark tester pull a plug, re-attach the wire and hold the spark plug to a good ground (use a pliers with rubber handles) on the block while you have someone crank it. If you have a spark move on to fuel. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and crank the engine. You should get a good stream out if the fuel pump is working. If that is good, pump the throttle lever on the carb and look down into the top of the carb. you should see a stream of gas spraying every time you pump it. If all of this seems fine you will have to move on into more technical stuff. Let me know! By the way it would be helpful to know if it just stopped running or if it has been sitting unused for a long time.
@@TheJayhawker thank you Jay I'll take a look at water pump once I get it to run again. It's been running fine for the last 15 years. I know I have a bad intake and exhaust manifold leak, That I been meaning to get to. And I'm hoping that didn't cause my problem. I went to start and it wasn't starting right. So I checked points they looked shot. So I cleaned them up and then it didn't want to start at all. I checked coil and wasn't getting spark, I had another old coil threw that in and it started. Took a 17 mile drive one way and it stalled twice but started. On the way back it stalled about four times. I let it sit for a minute or two and it started up again. Made it to a gas station toped it off to make sure it wasn't the gas. And then just about made it home. From then it wouldn't start. I did all that you said and that was all good. I decided to put in pertronix electronic ignition, did away with points. Also put a new coil on it, and nothing I replaced cap, rotor, wires and plugs and still nothing. I rebuilt carb and nothing. Put another carb on and nothing. I checked ignition switch seems good, I pulled positive wire off coil from ignition switch. And ran a direct wire off positive of battery to positive of coil, doing away with ignition switch tried starting. And still nothing. Did compression test had #5 cylinder at 50 dry 60 wet. All others seemed good. But that was done on a cold motor. I would think even with one bad cylinder it should run. Sorry for such a long text I'm just going nuts why she don't want to run. Could the timing just go out like that, out of the blue ? I like your video on intake and exhaust manifold gasket. Thanks for your help and input
@@nickpanhead7209 just for curiosity sake, take off the dist. cap and crank the engine and make sure the rotor is spinning nice and even. Then wiggle the dist. shaft around and make sure there isn't a lot of slop in it.
Jesse Torres Hi Love your video's, I have a 1936 Chevy with a 6 cylinder 207 engine. my rod that goes thru the exhaust manifold is it suppose turn when the metal flap moves up or down, or is the metal flap turn only. I was thinking of drilling out the metal rod that go's thru the exhaust and make another rod that will turn when the spring gets hot or cold. Thanks so much.
Yes, the rod turns with the flap. The spring is attached to the rod so that is what it turns. Before you drill it out you might try soaking it with PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil and let that work on it for a day or two. I've had great luck with both.
WHY wouldn't you snug the manifoldassembly to the head BEFORE you tighten the 4 intake/exhaust fasteners? Looks like you're setting up un-necessary preload on non-precision parts... NO??
Yes, yes, I covered this many times in the past and have considered removing the video many times because of my rashness at the vise. I did however loosen everything again and start over. Thanks for your concern and for watching!
@@TheJayhawker I didn't ask so I could upset you, I have done some wrenching, too.... and the thought occured... so I asked... I didn't read All your replies but I did scan a bunch... and didn't see the question asked.
I know you did this a year ago. At the risk of being the know it all that everyone loves to hate I see a few things that might need some procedural changes. No torque on exhaust to intake till it is in place. Choice of sealant on fuel side. To much strong arm.
Yes, for a year and a half I have answered this same concern. And it's a choice of never living this down or remove the video. I have lived by the procedure of never tightening anything until all fasteners are in place but for whatever reason when I was at the vise I tightened those. Rest assured that I went back and loosened everything, and then tightened them again. As for the permatex form-a- gasket, I am a huge fan and have been using it for such things for 30 years. Permatex does state that it is fuel, oil , and grease resistant. Thanks for watching and for looking out for me!
when I would bolt the intake and exhaust manifolds together I would leave the 2 bolts and 2 nuts just snug till the manifolds were tightened onto the cylinder head. then tighten them good.
You really should just snug the intake to exh bolts until you get the manifolds mounted on the head and the manifold nuts just snugged up. This allows the manifolds to align with the head with no stress. Then work up to torque or full tight in steps.
Did that on a customers ‘48 Chevy 3800 Pickup. The exhaust manifold was cracked when he bought it. Bought a good used one off ebay and installed it the same way as you explained; slowly tightened all fasteners so that everything seats properly in place with minimal stress points.
One of the most Valuable and authentic aspects of your work is to Include and discuss when things go wrong. Like a broken 40 - odd year old brass fitting for example. That's what happens to us amateurs out here, usually on a Sunday just before a Public holiday so you Cant get a new part for a week. Sods Law.
Thanks for sharing a good deal of helpful knowledge as I rebuild my ‘50-just down the road in Andover.
I didn't run into your channel until about 2 weeks ago. I have been catching up and I am impressed. I love my old cars too but they are a little different than yours but is any old car really too different from any other old car... except French cars! You work so well with what you have and get results. Bobby
my first car was a gift from my grandfather in 1960 a 48 style master 2 door chevrolet. very rusty from minnesota salt. gas was 24.9c/gallon and at 40 mph the car got 25mpg so 100 miles on a dollar. the old 216 was reliable and efficient.
With these videos I might actually get my 51 done... Thanks again well done.
The forward motion of the car causes a "draft" across the lower part of the tube creating a low pressure within the road draft tube which sucks the crankcase fumes out. That's why it's cut on an angle. Air enters through the vents in the rocker arm cover into the engine and circulates through the crankcase, and finally gets sucked out via the draft tube. If you see smoke coming out of the draft tube, you've got worn piston rings. I like your videos and the old Stovebolt 216 engine.
I did a complete rebuild on two 216's and they are a fun engine to work on. The glass bowl fuel pumps are cool looking. The originals had a brass screen in them instead of the paper filter. You could visually inspect them for dirt and clean them by unscrewing a nut on top of the pump to remove the glass bowl.
Thanks for watching! More to come!
@@TheJayhawker I just rebuilt my 1937 216. I had the engine completely rebuilt and the carb completely redone by the Old Carb Doctor in NC. The engine starts fine, and runs fine at full throttle but bucks at part load.This spring on my truck is broken.Would hot intake air all the time cause a stumble or miss at part load? Thanks-
@@jacktyler6475 I believe it would. I have a1955 with an original 235 in it and I took it out for a cruise the other day and it started hesitating when I stepped on the accelerator pedal . When I came back I inspected the engine and found that the thermostatic spring was missing. You could always wire the valve closed with bailing wire. So the valve is in the OPEN position when the engine is cold and rotates counter clockwise (when viewed from the front of the engine) to the closed position once the engine warms up. I live in SoCal so it doesn't get that cold and is not a daily driver. I had a new spring on it but it must have fallen off I guess I didn't pinch the slot that the center part of the spring slides into. Good luck
Keep these videos coming very interesting and they bring back some good memories
That's the plan! Thanks for watching
Make certain not to tighten the intake manifold to exhaust manifold until on engine. makes the intake and exhaust fit to head flush then tighten to specks after all bolts
That is not just a common spring it is made of bimetallic material that expands as it heats up it is a heat riser. Pretty good technology for the time and it did work. I have seen people remove the shaft and tap the holes install a bolt then cut it off smooth and not worry about the heat riser then complain about cold start problems
at 7:00 you should have waited until the manifolds were "mated" to the engine block before tightening them together to be certain they were squared to each other.
That's the great thing about video...Yes indeed I should have, and I believe in the next video I correct it, among other things. This stuff sure keeps a guy humble. Thanks for watching.
Well I just seen this and I agree with some of the other guys that you should have just loosened it the manifold and then turn it up all together after you get it connected to the head but some people just don't listen cuz they're not that smart and they think they know what they're doing but anyway good job guys I understand what you're saying so I'm going to continue to watch some of these other ones
Have seen the draft tube replaced with a PCV. It does upset the power valve in the carburetor and cause more fueling.
I wonder if using a thin cutting disc to clean out the slit for the spring would be better?
Tengo un motor 216 en cuba saludos abraso grande desde cuba te seguimos ❤❤❤❤❤❤te doy like saludos
Just found this video and so glad I did as you explain the heat control valve so well. Mine is stuck open so all that hot exhaust is permanently heating the fuel mix. I have a 46 pickup with a 216 motor and the 4.11 diff. Not the fastest car in the world but mine is flat out at 40 mph. Everyone tells me it should go a lot faster than that. Do you think the valve being stuck open could cause it to run out of puff?
Well, I’ve answered my own question. I loosened up the valve and installed a new spring. It definitely makes a big difference. From struggling at 40 mph, my ute will now easily do 50 mph.
I still have other issues like the vacuum advance not working at all, but I’m pretty happy that a working heat control valve has made a huge difference
What if I always left the manifold valve closed? No heat ever warming up the carb… my spring is gone…lol
we used water to free up the heat riser valve shafts.
My 48 would ony go 5 - 6miles before brass screen would fill up rust from gas tank. Bought for $40 after sitting in field for 10 years.
What’s the difference in fuel pumps? Other than the style
Should I used gasket sealer on the gasket when attaching the manifolds? I knowdest you didn't use any. Thanks
no don't
Exelente
I’ve been looking for that thermostatic coil spring for my grandfather’s 1959 Biscayne (has the good old original 235) and my 1965 GMC’s 250. Good to know they’re still produced. Yippee!
Update: Just broke the shaft by trying to remove the broken bit of the center of the spring with a screwdriver. 😟 Gotta find a new exhaust manifold now that has the heat riser (I don’t really feel like cutting the flap off the shaft, removing a shaft from another manifold, and welding it back in...). Just thought I’d share this so that now we know how easy it is to break these shafts!
sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly forgot the password. I would love any assistance you can offer me.
@Mauricio Watson Instablaster :)
@Lawrence Kieran thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Lawrence Kieran it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
@Mauricio Watson You are welcome =)
Shouldn’t u have torqued the bolts to avoid cracking the manifold.?
What is the brown-tinted sealant you are using on the fuel fittings? I have a thicker PTFE sealant and would also like to get a can of the thinner stuff.
Permatex #80019 Form-A-Gasket, The best sealant known to man, well, this man anyway.
i have a 1950 chevrolet 3100 truck with a 235 engine. have problem with no oil getting to top of rockers. checked all lines they are clear. removed oil pan test oil pump working but noticed oil going to oil pan looked at the oil distributor valve looks ok. only get oil to top when i plug off the oil distributor valve and the pressure gauge port. then i get oil to main bearings and to the rockers what could be wrong , any information would be helpful, thanks.
The oil tube comes up through the head and takes a 90* turn towards the rocker shaft. On the bottom of the tube right after the 90* turn there should be a hole in the tube. Is there any oil coming out of that? I suspect a plugged line or junk built up in the rocker shaft. I'm not implying you, but perhaps there has been years of prolonged oil changes and little use of the vehicle, also never really getting the car out for long drives that allow everything to get good and hot that burns out moisture. Get back to me with what you find or any more questions.
@@TheJayhawker if i remove the oil distributor valve and block it off with a plate then i get oil going to the top. i have blown out all lines, and even the orifice where it comes out of the passenger side of the block is all clear and oil comes out. but when i put the valve back in i just get oil to the bottom even when i turn the oil pump slowly with a drill..i think the valve is bad?
@@eldinpeterson3760 Yes, I agree.
I’m having a bear of a time getting the intake/exhaust manifold back on my 235. I have the bolts on the manifold loose to allow movement during install but the intake rings (that I have installed in the head) just don’t want to slide into the manifold. Any advice? Maybe lightly sand the edges of the intake rings?
First of all, I'm just curious if this is something you took apart and are now reassembling it or are they salvaged parts that you're putting together? Can you get the rings to go into the manifold while it is on your workbench? If it is close I don't see a problem putting a slight bevel on the edge to get things started.
@@TheJayhawker well.. I had original rings until I smashed them trying to put the manifold on. Now I have new rings and they’re a bit beefier than stock. But yes, I can get them in the manifold while on workbench
@@TheJayhawker and yes I took apart the original manifold because the mating gasket was blown and leaking and the exhaust studs needed replaced.
I have a 51 - 2 Door Chevy Deluxe Style Line. I have installed a new mechanical fuel pump. It is not working? is there a push rod or something that it has to press against? I did miss a step? I did not find any push rod?
No the cam does all the work
You should have installed a split exhaust manifold. Run a straight pipe on one side and an 18 inch glass pack on the other! No sweeter sound!
Is there a certain order u have to follow to tighten the manifold???
Always tighten from the center and go out. Intakes, heads, whatever, start in the center and work out.
I need your help buddy. My 48 fleetmaster fuel pump will not deliver fuel to carb. I have changed fuel pumps. Taken them off and on numerous times. Have turned over engine to different spots on cam and nothing. I am bypassing all old fuel lines and gas tank. Car does run I have filled carb with fuel and all works. Only thing left if if cam lobe is worn out and not pumping the pump fully. Any thoughts before I try to rig up electric pump? Thanks
Is this a vehicle you have had running since you have owned it? Because the only other possibility is that the old pump was the wrong one and you bought a new one to match. I'm not trying to insult your intelligence but you know, stuff happens. But first I would blow air through your fuel lines and make sure there is no blockage, look for kinks as well and if there is a section of rubber line for a filter or anything make sure it is open as well. Then with all connections tightened do what I did to prime the fuel lines at the beginning of this video:
ua-cam.com/video/kxgjytm2JHk/v-deo.html
Now you have everything primed and fuel in the carb.
If it still doesn't take off you have one more possibility, bad gas in the tank. If it's old ethanol gas it may absolutely refuse to run on it depending on how old it is.
If you check all of these it about has to be the cam lobe. Let me know what you find out
@@TheJayhawker the fuel pump is the same as what was on it, also matches the one you put on. Only thing I haven't done is try with the fuel tank and blow air through it like you did. Not sure whats in the tank so that's why I was bypassing it with a gas can. I will connect the lines and try that next. I am not sure when the car actually ran last. License plate in trunk was from 67. Could be reason car was parked because they had the same problem im having. I'll give it a try! BTW Iive in western Kansas, what part are you from. Thanks for the advice.
Hi thanks for making video, torn mine off yesterday my question is I seen another video or posting. They said leave intake to exhaust loose untill once you get it mounted to head. I guess that would insure both intake and exhaust mount flush to head. Then tighten those mounting bolts. I'm not saying you did anything wrong but I'm seeing two different ways, did you happen to start the engine yet, any issues. Thanks for doing video
Yeah sorry, that's embarrassing. Thanks for catching that! You certainly do want to only have them snug until they are tight on the head. Boy, that makes me want to blitz the video.....
@@TheJayhawker I think you did a great video and I think everyone else would agree to that, from the beginning to the end. You hit two topics I I'm doing on my truck, I'm also replacing the heat riser spring. Mine was binder wire tied wide open. So I'm fixing that. I'll be looking forward to more of your videos. To me it just makes sense to leave those bolts a little loose so both the intake and exhaust mount flush to head. Then lock them down. All good I enjoyed it
@@TheJayhawker I have a 1952 chevy 216 (in a 1953 Chevy 3100 truck) it does not have that spring. I dont see the slot either for it on the rod either. Did they do away with the spring by 52?
The trouble with the 216’s is the Babbitt bearings that nobody still alive knows how to work on.
Sweet
Could you please make a video about how to replace the head gasket?
Sorry, I started making videos after I had already done all of that on this project. But if you shoot over to my channel and watch the videos on the 1966 C20 pickup you can watch the process on that engine. It is about 18 years newer but the process is pretty much the same.
@@TheJayhawker thank you sir!
Get you a manual and a good torque wrench also clean clean clean both surfaces
You said if the heat riser is open when hot would be detrimental.
What problems can this create? My 51 is stuck open. can't move it by hand. don't want to snap it.
Anyway, learned a lot from your videos.
There would probably be a lot of debate to this question, it's just one of those things. But basically (in my opinion) a engine runs poorly in cold weather even with a choke. So they put a temperature controlled flap between the two manifolds to provide heat to the intake when the ambient temp. was cold. Warm air/fuel atomizes better so that makes sense. The down side of it being stuck open would probably only be noticed in warm weather. If you have fought any issues with vapor lock, pre-detonation, having to run it richer etc. By the time the small block v8 came along they had a permanent exhaust passages heating the bottom of the intake. Oh and I love your name, Arnold Ziffel, hilarious!
@@TheJayhawker thanks from texas
@@TheJayhawker Hi from Bugtussle. As it warms up I'm feeling like the engine is sputtering at all speeds, light backfire when back off the gas, even trying to die when I come to a stop. when I pull the choke out the engine smooths right out. Runs fine with the choke out. Would you think this could be the heat riser stuck open?
@@MrWhylie I would expect pinging or dieseling when you shut the ignition off but probably not this problem. Check for a vacuum leak with engine running squirt carb or brake cleaner around carb mount at the intake as well as the throttle plate shaft going through the carb body and see if the engine rpm changes. If not that I would suspect that you have crud in the carb jet or a passage.
@@TheJayhawker you da man.
i want the intake and exhaust gasket can you help
chevsofthe40s.com or fillingstation.com can help you out.
"as i heat it you'll see" ... see you move it with your other hand @5:06
haha, yes I certainly did. I wanted to demonstrate how it worked but it made me nervous using a torch on a (I'm sure) foreign made spring. Hey, at least I don't hide or edit these things out right?
Nice thank you, did you do water pump yet ?
Next video will be testing and working on gen. and starter. Then will be the entire cooling system and hopefully put the spurs to 'er! What are you hoping to see in regards to the water pump? I was hoping to find a reasonably priced rebuild kit but couldn't a new pump was much cheaper.
@@TheJayhawker just looking to see you putting on your water pump, I replaced mine but seems to be leaking again. Not sure if I got a bad one or I messed up installing it. Having issues with my 53 216 not wanting to start. Do you have any experience in trouble shooting.
@@nickpanhead7209 On the water pump there should be a weep hole on the bottom of the casting where the shaft goes into body of the water pump. Check to see if your leak is there or just the gasket. Start with checking for spark, if you don't have a spark tester pull a plug, re-attach the wire and hold the spark plug to a good ground (use a pliers with rubber handles) on the block while you have someone crank it. If you have a spark move on to fuel. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and crank the engine. You should get a good stream out if the fuel pump is working. If that is good, pump the throttle lever on the carb and look down into the top of the carb. you should see a stream of gas spraying every time you pump it. If all of this seems fine you will have to move on into more technical stuff. Let me know! By the way it would be helpful to know if it just stopped running or if it has been sitting unused for a long time.
@@TheJayhawker thank you Jay I'll take a look at water pump once I get it to run again. It's been running fine for the last 15 years. I know I have a bad intake and exhaust manifold leak, That I been meaning to get to. And I'm hoping that didn't cause my problem. I went to start and it wasn't starting right. So I checked points they looked shot. So I cleaned them up and then it didn't want to start at all. I checked coil and wasn't getting spark, I had another old coil threw that in and it started. Took a 17 mile drive one way and it stalled twice but started. On the way back it stalled about four times. I let it sit for a minute or two and it started up again. Made it to a gas station toped it off to make sure it wasn't the gas. And then just about made it home. From then it wouldn't start. I did all that you said and that was all good. I decided to put in pertronix electronic ignition, did away with points. Also put a new coil on it, and nothing I replaced cap, rotor, wires and plugs and still nothing. I rebuilt carb and nothing. Put another carb on and nothing. I checked ignition switch seems good, I pulled positive wire off coil from ignition switch. And ran a direct wire off positive of battery to positive of coil, doing away with ignition switch tried starting. And still nothing. Did compression test had #5 cylinder at 50 dry 60 wet. All others seemed good. But that was done on a cold motor. I would think even with one bad cylinder it should run. Sorry for such a long text I'm just going nuts why she don't want to run. Could the timing just go out like that, out of the blue ? I like your video on intake and exhaust manifold gasket. Thanks for your help and input
@@nickpanhead7209 just for curiosity sake, take off the dist. cap and crank the engine and make sure the rotor is spinning nice and even. Then wiggle the dist. shaft around and make sure there isn't a lot of slop in it.
Jesse Torres
Hi Love your video's, I have a 1936 Chevy with a 6 cylinder 207 engine. my rod that goes thru the exhaust manifold is it suppose turn when the metal flap moves up or down, or is the metal flap turn only. I was thinking of drilling out the metal rod that go's thru the exhaust and make another rod that will turn when the spring gets hot or cold. Thanks so much.
Yes, the rod turns with the flap. The spring is attached to the rod so that is what it turns. Before you drill it out you might try soaking it with PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil and let that work on it for a day or two. I've had great luck with both.
missing head bolt
WHY wouldn't you snug the manifoldassembly to the head BEFORE you tighten the 4 intake/exhaust fasteners? Looks like you're setting up un-necessary preload on non-precision parts... NO??
Yes, yes, I covered this many times in the past and have considered removing the video many times because of my rashness at the vise. I did however loosen everything again and start over. Thanks for your concern and for watching!
@@TheJayhawker I didn't ask so I could upset you, I have done some wrenching, too.... and the thought occured... so I asked... I didn't read All your replies but I did scan a bunch... and didn't see the question asked.
I need a manifold for 250
Good old american engiines
I know you did this a year ago. At the risk of being the know it all that everyone loves to hate I see a few things that might need some procedural changes. No torque on exhaust to intake till it is in place. Choice of sealant on fuel side. To much strong arm.
Yes, for a year and a half I have answered this same concern. And it's a choice of never living this down or remove the video. I have lived by the procedure of never tightening anything until all fasteners are in place but for whatever reason when I was at the vise I tightened those. Rest assured that I went back and loosened everything, and then tightened them again. As for the permatex form-a- gasket, I am a huge fan and have been using it for such things for 30 years. Permatex does state that it is fuel, oil , and grease resistant. Thanks for watching and for looking out for me!
I like the V8 engines. But I really don't care about the in-line six bangers. I see them as engines used on generators.
Witch.way.the.insurcerlater.goes.on.thecarberrater