Thanks Tim! I have been wanting to manufacture a new glove box door to replace the original plastic one. I wasn’t sure how to get the rolled edge perfect, now I know enough to give it a try.
New sub. Where did you find the material needed at? How did you choose the angle to make it on the material? I thought you were to 0 degree a part as much as possible. Did the original part have the re-leafs made in it to allow to shrink the material or how did they do it. In school we each had to make a wing nose rib that was rounded. We had to use a wood block and nylon hammer to stretch and move the metal so as to not need the re-leafs. Could you have done this here or was there a particular reason you did it this way. Just trying to get knowledge and nothing more. Thanks for the video. I will try to find the rest of this video fix.
I used to work for a fab shop and I learned how to make the blocks and forms. I used a 10 degree undercut for sping back. The material I used was 2024-T3 and since it wasn't a tight radius it formed well over the block. And yes the original part had those "reliefs" along the outer edge.
Great video! However, I'm curious about how you verified that the static loads remained unchanged. The original parts are press-formed, and the lightning holes are created using specific dies to ensure the flanges meet the DWG-specified tolerances. While I can see the potential for this method in general aviation aircraft, I have doubts about its applicability to commercial aircraft.
Hey Andrew, not sure on what you are asking......to modify a frame wouldn't be hard to do, just depending on the application of what you are trying to do.
Lower skilled I agree, save time maybe, money no....Solid rivets are sold by the pound and CM are sold Each. Besides Cherrys are only allowed where you have no access to the back side to work the shop head. Hence the term "blind rivets"
Great Video Tim!! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge and skills. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Tim! I have been wanting to manufacture a new glove box door to replace the original plastic one. I wasn’t sure how to get the rolled edge perfect, now I know enough to give it a try.
I have a couple more videos that complete the process I just need to figure out how to edit a little better so it isn't so long.
New sub. Where did you find the material needed at? How did you choose the angle to make it on the material? I thought you were to 0 degree a part as much as possible. Did the original part have the re-leafs made in it to allow to shrink the material or how did they do it. In school we each had to make a wing nose rib that was rounded. We had to use a wood block and nylon hammer to stretch and move the metal so as to not need the re-leafs. Could you have done this here or was there a particular reason you did it this way. Just trying to get knowledge and nothing more. Thanks for the video. I will try to find the rest of this video fix.
I used to work for a fab shop and I learned how to make the blocks and forms. I used a 10 degree undercut for sping back. The material I used was 2024-T3 and since it wasn't a tight radius it formed well over the block. And yes the original part had those "reliefs" along the outer edge.
Great video! However, I'm curious about how you verified that the static loads remained unchanged. The original parts are press-formed, and the lightning holes are created using specific dies to ensure the flanges meet the DWG-specified tolerances. While I can see the potential for this method in general aviation aircraft, I have doubts about its applicability to commercial aircraft.
Is it at all possible to make the frame taller of a Cessna 150 by 2 feet ?
Hey Andrew, not sure on what you are asking......to modify a frame wouldn't be hard to do, just depending on the application of what you are trying to do.
Cherry Max will hold just fine but is used by lower skilled people trying to save time. And I guess money.
Lower skilled I agree, save time maybe, money no....Solid rivets are sold by the pound and CM are sold Each. Besides Cherrys are only allowed where you have no access to the back side to work the shop head. Hence the term "blind rivets"
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