I suggest beginners either buy the Understanding Exposure book or check it out from library. It will help them understand the exposure triangle. The book is very simple understand. I would also tell them that they have to experiment with the settings to best understand how they all work and affect exposure. There's just no way around playing with the settings yourself as the book knowledge will only take you so far.
Finds someone who's better than you, and go shooting with them. Ask questions. Try out their settings. Try out your own setting and see which you like better. Do this with several different photographers, if you can. See which of their techniques work best for you.
Janine, you are an awesome photo host! I learned a lot on my Safari with Pangolin, and am so glad to have this refresher.... Now to weed through the thousands of photos....
Nothing new for me except the way you explained it.. My granddaughter has started with photography, after I gave her my previous Canon 6D with some L lenses.. I quite often explained the triangle of shutter speed, aperture and ISO ..However, your rendition is way way way better than I ever could explain it to my granddaughter. Thanks for sharing Janine..
Thank you janine. Your videos are always so uplifting to watch, as your personality is just so lovely and you put these things across in a way that amateurs like myself can understand. Amanda (England)
Hello from Montreal Canada! Thanks so much for sharing another wonderful video like always Janine, I learned so much from your videos and I really enjoy watching your content 🐦👍🤗
@@anonymouspdg6121 if it's a subject against the sky I add if it's a white subject against a dark back ground I subtract so the whites don't get blown out. It's a bit of trial and error and practice Sounds like a future video Janine
Overwhelmed at the moment but I learned a lot. My two priorities are shooting wildlife in low light in jungle conditions and catching animals in flight or moving. I'll continue exploring how to set up my Sony a6600 camera and dedicate a button for each situation! Thank you!
Thank You Janine. Well presented and useful. I've just completed my first safari and your advice was uppermost in my mind. Later, I'll send results for your annual review. I'll welcome any reaction. Kind Regards, Garrick, Rome. Italy
Thankyou for your time again Janine, and the work you put in helping us to get our shots perfect. Totally off topic, I love your shutter coffee mug .. can't seem to find one like it. Gotta Link by chance? Blessings, and happy hunting.
Excellent video guiding beginners into how exposure triangle works and giving excellent tips to control the camera and ultimately the final image. Good job! I think a good follow up would be to show how Exposure Comp can be used to bring an intended mood to the picture , namely high key or dark key photography, ideal for animal portraits.
Hi, thanks for the great feedback. Please check out part one of this tutorial as it explains metering and your exposure compensation in detail. Then we also have great videos of my colleague Sabine on shooting and editing creative exposures which cover all of the above
It might be boring, but what I started with was reading the manual for my camera with the intention of knowing all the settings I could possibly need while out shooting. The next step was to go out often to shoot and learn where each button was and what I expected it to do, all with the intention of knowing how to find the buttons in the dark, when cold and wearing gloves etc. Repetition is king! Have reasonable expectations of your capabilities, the animals behaviours etc - if you press the shutter 100 times, you shouldn't expect to come home with 100 keepers.(If you get 5-10 keepers per hundred shots, then you are having a really good day.) Janine, as always, you have a good and methodical way of explaining. It sets you apart from plenty. 👍
Thank you Janine, I have been making images since I was a boy, and still doing so, that said your two videos on Nature Photography are great - as are all the content from the team. Really appreciate your sharing. Kind Regards Tony
Thanks JK. I have watched a lot of your other videos. All of them are par excellence. This is excellent but need to be watched a few more times. You choice if expressions like tangible metaphors, intentions to pay attention are few classics which I intend to borrow. You’re are wonderful teacher with great clarity. Enjoyed your videos. Keep them coming please. JP, India.
This is a very informative video, only I've spent like 10 minuets trying too figure out what it is that's leaking out of her camera onto the table...any ideas? Yeah, that puzzled me too! One thing I have found that puzzles me when shooting in manual with Auto-ISO is that sometimes it makes an exposure that is too overexposed and I have found that using the exposure lock button, as odd as it sounds can help with controlling highlights/shadows. One question I have is does the battery life in mirrorless cameras control the amount of power too maintain a steady shutter speed as the battery power goes down or is it like the olden days when the shutter speed goes down when the battery level goes out?
Lots of good information. If you don't get the bokeh you want out of the camera, modern processing software can add selective blur to specific parts of the image. While not true bokeh, it can de-emphasize the background enough to make the main attraction standout.
Janine, thanks for Part 2 of this series. I’m from the old school of film using aperture priority. I needed to change to shutter priority for wildlife photography to avoid some of the pitfalls you mentioned. Good video series 😊.
Hello! My daughter and I will be joining Pangolin in February at Chobe and beyond for about 3 weeks……our first Africa trip. My biggest decision seems to be deciding between bringing a Sony 100-400 lens plus doubler, or the 200-600 - since weight on the small planes seems to be so critical. Of course, the photography is most important, but would i be missing too much by bringing the 100-400? 🧐 Thanks!
Fabulous videos as always , however, I understood that ISO had little to do with the camera's sensitivity. Rather it amplifies the light already allowed by the shutter/aperture combination. If the shutter /aperture combination is not letting in much light this produces the noise in the image and increasing the ISO just amplifies the noise. Sometimes higher ISO settings actually look less noisy.
Hi Janine, thank you for your video. A great help. My question relates to exposure compensation. Am I correct in saying that exposure compensation works differently between the various camera brands (in manual mode)? In Nikon bodies, EV only really applies to aperture priority or shutter priority.. so how would one go -0.3 EV in manual mode? TIA
Very good tips thanks for sharing, I feel the next video will be nice to discuss evaluative metering vs spot metering in wildlife photography and also continous focus option.
Hi Naheed, please check out the first part of this very tutorial and you will find that I went into depth about the metering and exposure compensation. There is also a video by Sabine that explains metering alone!
I might coming to join you next year for one of your safaris and I might want you to setup my camera as I not good with the menus on camera’s it will be a Nikon D 850
A lovely review, though I'm still not sure how to undo decades of conditioning that make me comfortable with aperture priority despite your well-reasoned critique :). Although well aware of the pitfalls, I do carefully watch my camera settings, which is easier than ever do with mirrorless cameras with full information displayed in the viewfinder. To be honest, I have been using manual with autoISO recently, but I'm still reluctant to give up control of my aperture setting for "aesthetic reasons"
@@Methodical2 When I began my photographic journey almost 50y ago, cameras didn't even have built-in exposure meters, hand-held meters were the height of sophistication, and "focus-assist" meant foot/meter calibration marks on the focus ring :). While your reflexes may be faster than mine, I don't think I'm quick enough to adjust all 3 elements of the focus triangle and compose at the same time. Wth aperture priority, I only have to keep an eye on the shutter speed to make sure it's within a suitable range, which generally works for me. I recently started to experiment with the Flexible-priority mode (Fv) on my new Canon, which offers automatic exposures with one-step manual over-ride of any of the 3 elements of the triangle. This also strikes me as a promising approach, if I can just "unlearn" old habits!
Hi Wellington, On Manual with Auto ISO you shouldn't have to give up the control of you aperture. The idea is that you control all the "creative" settings such as shutter and aperture to determine how your image is supposed to look and let the ISO "the non-creative light parameter" do the hard work...
@@pangolinphotohosts818 Sorry, I wasn't clear. I understand that both full manual and flexible priority allow me to control aperture, which is why I've been trying to make them my default this summer. Of the two, I think I prefer Fv, simply because it's faster to make adjustments, which is critical for the birds and wildlife I like to photograph (we even have polar bears within easy travel distance!). I didn't mean to imply that these modes meant sacrificing aperture control, which was my objection to shutter priority advocated by many wildlife photographers. Again, apologies for my lack of clarity, and thanks for wanting to set me right. Of course, my big problem remains the need to "unlearn" my reliance on aperture priority. After 5 decades, this is taking more effort than I would have imagined, even though that probably makes no sense to those of you who are less ossified :). But there really is an ingrained comfort level that makes me want to keep at least one custom mode for my "usual" set-up.
@@pangolinphotohosts818 It's my main lens for sports photography and probably the most underrated lens. Great IQ and the f4 even at low light it's easily handled with the high ISO capability of the R6 / 1Dx MKII I use. Mind you during my last safari in Kenya I took the 100-400. Great videos by the way
Do you have recommendations (or other videos) to help photographers determine the acceptable upper-level for ISO Auto for their particular camera bodies?
Hi Scott, as ISO is so particular for each camera body we do include it in our camera gear reviews only but haven't gotten one that covers all common camera bodies. Sorry for that... which camera do you shoot?
@@pangolinphotohosts818 I'm using a D7500, currently just with the kit zoom (70-300 DX 4.5-6.3) in Namibia, Botswana and Kenya, so far. Seems reasonably sharp. Looking toward the 200-500mm range for another lens, but at afforable price, I'll lose at least another stop, making the max acceptable ISO even more relevant.
The Digital Revolution has greatly changed photography, making it far easier. In the days of film, National Geographic photographers did not have much in burst frames/per/sec as their films were Kodachrome and Ektrachrome or Fujichrome. The photographer had to have the skill/knowledge to catch animal behavior with a burst rate of 3-6 depending on available light, how fast their Canon FD lenses were and their ISO was from 25-400, with 36 exposures (Canon did have a film magazine of 250 exp). The New Canon F1's fastest shutter speed was 1/2000 sec. Prime lenses gave the fastest apertures and zooms were slow. Yet, there are many Classic NG photos that are art. The other nice thing about Digital is it does't cost you anything to experiment and you can learn more quickly. Now the range of possibilities is much greater than the film days. (Edited: Forgot to mention that auto focus Canon EF lenses came out in 1987, so before that it was manual focus FD lenses with only a few bulky and slow AF versions.)
What else could you add to this to advise a beginner wildlife photographer? What made the biggest difference for you?
Prepare to spend 20k on lenses :)
@@CZOV You can get a nice beginner setup for $1200-$1300...1D4, 400 5.6 and a 1.4xII TC. or the older 100-400 lens.
I suggest beginners either buy the Understanding Exposure book or check it out from library. It will help them understand the exposure triangle. The book is very simple understand. I would also tell them that they have to experiment with the settings to best understand how they all work and affect exposure. There's just no way around playing with the settings yourself as the book knowledge will only take you so far.
Finds someone who's better than you, and go shooting with them. Ask questions. Try out their settings. Try out your own setting and see which you like better. Do this with several different photographers, if you can. See which of their techniques work best for you.
@@CZOV unfortunately there is some truth in that.
This is one of the best channels on UA-cam for quality information
Janine, you are an awesome photo host! I learned a lot on my Safari with Pangolin, and am so glad to have this refresher.... Now to weed through the thousands of photos....
Fantastic.... have fun doing so! Hopefully I will see you again sometime
Nothing new for me except the way you explained it.. My granddaughter has started with photography, after I gave her my previous Canon 6D with some L lenses.. I quite often explained the triangle of shutter speed, aperture and ISO ..However, your rendition is way way way better than I ever could explain it to my granddaughter.
Thanks for sharing Janine..
So glad it helped.
Wow, that is a huge compliment... thank you so much
Thank you janine. Your videos are always so uplifting to watch, as your personality is just so lovely and you put these things across in a way that amateurs like myself can understand. Amanda (England)
Hi Amanda, thanks so much for your lovely feedback. I really appreciate - Janine
Hello from Montreal Canada! Thanks so much for sharing another wonderful video like always Janine, I learned so much from your videos and I really enjoy watching your content 🐦👍🤗
Thank you so much!
Hey Janine. Excellent as always. Manual with Auto ISO also with exposure compensation is the only way to go.
Interesting. How do you determine what exposure compensation to use and how do you set it up so it's very quick to do?
@@anonymouspdg6121 if it's a subject against the sky I add if it's a white subject against a dark back ground I subtract so the whites don't get blown out. It's a bit of trial and error and practice
Sounds like a future video Janine
Hi Dave & PDG please check out the first part of this tutorial as it goes into depth about metering and exposure compensation
Overwhelmed at the moment but I learned a lot. My two priorities are shooting wildlife in low light in jungle conditions and catching animals in flight or moving. I'll continue exploring how to set up my Sony a6600 camera and dedicate a button for each situation! Thank you!
Thanks Janine... I shoot manual with auto-iso as well.
fantastic approach.... maybe we see you here sometime
Janine stunning as always, wonderful tuition and clear explanations super helpful Thank you.
L👀king forward to your next one📸
More to come!!
Thank You Janine. Well presented and useful. I've just completed my first safari and your advice was uppermost in my mind. Later, I'll send results for your annual review. I'll welcome any reaction. Kind Regards, Garrick, Rome. Italy
Beautiful video and contents Janine. It supper nice you also talked/included the pitfalls!
Great video as always - hope to see you in a couple of weeks!
Not too long now!
I will be going with you to the Delta
Hi Janine : Another job well done. You make it so much easier to understand. I really enjoyed your 5 photography hacks.
Thankyou for your time again Janine, and the work you put in helping us to get our shots perfect. Totally off topic, I love your shutter coffee mug .. can't seem to find one like it. Gotta Link by chance?
Blessings, and happy hunting.
Love this channel ! Great easy to understand videos, thanks 🙏
Glad you enjoy it!
Excellent video Janine, with plenty of great tips
Cheers Kevin.
Many Thanks for wonderful tutorials part 1 & 2
Nicely explained the basics 👌🌹👍
Glad you like them!
Excellent video guiding beginners into how exposure triangle works and giving excellent tips to control the camera and ultimately the final image. Good job!
I think a good follow up would be to show how Exposure Comp can be used to bring an intended mood to the picture , namely high key or dark key photography, ideal for animal portraits.
Hi, thanks for the great feedback. Please check out part one of this tutorial as it explains metering and your exposure compensation in detail. Then we also have great videos of my colleague Sabine on shooting and editing creative exposures which cover all of the above
It might be boring, but what I started with was reading the manual for my camera with the intention of knowing all the settings I could possibly need while out shooting. The next step was to go out often to shoot and learn where each button was and what I expected it to do, all with the intention of knowing how to find the buttons in the dark, when cold and wearing gloves etc. Repetition is king!
Have reasonable expectations of your capabilities, the animals behaviours etc - if you press the shutter 100 times, you shouldn't expect to come home with 100 keepers.(If you get 5-10 keepers per hundred shots, then you are having a really good day.)
Janine, as always, you have a good and methodical way of explaining. It sets you apart from plenty. 👍
Thank you Jonas. You re quite right...practice makes perfect!
Thank you Janine, I have been making images since I was a boy, and still doing so, that said your two videos on Nature Photography are great - as are all the content from the team. Really appreciate your sharing. Kind Regards Tony
You are so welcome, Tony!
Just got a new camera and a great telephoto lens! Excited to take some photos of the birds and animals in my backyard!
Love your videos!
❤️🌻❤️
Always an exciting time...new cameras!!!
Excellent video's expertly linked. Really useful for the newbie and as a refresher for the enthusiast. Lewis B. Nottingham (UK)
Thanks JK. I have watched a lot of your other videos. All of them are par excellence. This is excellent but need to be watched a few more times. You choice if expressions like tangible metaphors, intentions to pay attention are few classics which I intend to borrow. You’re are wonderful teacher with great clarity. Enjoyed your videos. Keep them coming please. JP, India.
Thanks so much Janine! Wonderful advice! I've been practicing these with shooting white tailed deer and elk in the last couple of weeks.
Very nice!!! Hope you got some keepers!
Excellent video , thank you ...!!
This is a very informative video, only I've spent like 10 minuets trying too figure out what it is that's leaking out of her camera onto the table...any ideas? Yeah, that puzzled me too! One thing I have found that puzzles me when shooting in manual with Auto-ISO is that sometimes it makes an exposure that is too overexposed and I have found that using the exposure lock button, as odd as it sounds can help with controlling highlights/shadows. One question I have is does the battery life in mirrorless cameras control the amount of power too maintain a steady shutter speed as the battery power goes down or is it like the olden days when the shutter speed goes down when the battery level goes out?
Great info. Thank you so much for this series.
Our pleasure!
Awesome Video Thank You.
Glad you liked it!
Great video, thank you Janine❤
Our pleasure Paul.
Always brilliant and informative
Glad you think so!
Lots of good information. If you don't get the bokeh you want out of the camera, modern processing software can add selective blur to specific parts of the image. While not true bokeh, it can de-emphasize the background enough to make the main attraction standout.
Good point. Thank you.
Janine, thanks for Part 2 of this series. I’m from the old school of film using aperture priority. I needed to change to shutter priority for wildlife photography to avoid some of the pitfalls you mentioned. Good video series 😊.
Wonderful! Thank you.
Thank you. Super video
very good tips delivered in an interesting presentation
Thanks Ralph
Excellent content!
Hello! My daughter and I will be joining Pangolin in February at Chobe and beyond for about 3 weeks……our first Africa trip. My biggest decision seems to be deciding between bringing a Sony 100-400 lens plus doubler, or the 200-600 - since weight on the small planes seems to be so critical. Of course, the photography is most important, but would i be missing too much by bringing the 100-400? 🧐 Thanks!
Great tips, thanks!!
Thank you Ruud
Excellent!
Janine - you rock!
Thanks Paul.
Fabulous videos as always , however, I understood that ISO had little to do with the camera's sensitivity. Rather it amplifies the light already allowed by the shutter/aperture combination. If the shutter /aperture combination is not letting in much light this produces the noise in the image and increasing the ISO just amplifies the noise. Sometimes higher ISO settings actually look less noisy.
Hi Janine, thank you for your video. A great help. My question relates to exposure compensation. Am I correct in saying that exposure compensation works differently between the various camera brands (in manual mode)? In Nikon bodies, EV only really applies to aperture priority or shutter priority.. so how would one go -0.3 EV in manual mode? TIA
Great job Janine, very helpful😊
Thank you George.
Very good tips thanks for sharing, I feel the next video will be nice to discuss evaluative metering vs spot metering in wildlife photography and also continous focus option.
If you look through our vids we have a few on that subject already I think.
Hi Naheed, please check out the first part of this very tutorial and you will find that I went into depth about the metering and exposure compensation. There is also a video by Sabine that explains metering alone!
I might coming to join you next year for one of your safaris and I might want you to setup my camera as I not good with the menus on camera’s it will be a Nikon D 850
A lovely review, though I'm still not sure how to undo decades of conditioning that make me comfortable with aperture priority despite your well-reasoned critique :). Although well aware of the pitfalls, I do carefully watch my camera settings, which is easier than ever do with mirrorless cameras with full information displayed in the viewfinder. To be honest, I have been using manual with autoISO recently, but I'm still reluctant to give up control of my aperture setting for "aesthetic reasons"
You still control aperture in manual. As a matter of fact, In manual, you control all 3.
@@Methodical2 When I began my photographic journey almost 50y ago, cameras didn't even have built-in exposure meters, hand-held meters were the height of sophistication, and "focus-assist" meant foot/meter calibration marks on the focus ring :). While your reflexes may be faster than mine, I don't think I'm quick enough to adjust all 3 elements of the focus triangle and compose at the same time. Wth aperture priority, I only have to keep an eye on the shutter speed to make sure it's within a suitable range, which generally works for me. I recently started to experiment with the Flexible-priority mode (Fv) on my new Canon, which offers automatic exposures with one-step manual over-ride of any of the 3 elements of the triangle. This also strikes me as a promising approach, if I can just "unlearn" old habits!
Hi Wellington, On Manual with Auto ISO you shouldn't have to give up the control of you aperture. The idea is that you control all the "creative" settings such as shutter and aperture to determine how your image is supposed to look and let the ISO "the non-creative light parameter" do the hard work...
@@pangolinphotohosts818 Sorry, I wasn't clear. I understand that both full manual and flexible priority allow me to control aperture, which is why I've been trying to make them my default this summer. Of the two, I think I prefer Fv, simply because it's faster to make adjustments, which is critical for the birds and wildlife I like to photograph (we even have polar bears within easy travel distance!). I didn't mean to imply that these modes meant sacrificing aperture control, which was my objection to shutter priority advocated by many wildlife photographers. Again, apologies for my lack of clarity, and thanks for wanting to set me right. Of course, my big problem remains the need to "unlearn" my reliance on aperture priority. After 5 decades, this is taking more effort than I would have imagined, even though that probably makes no sense to those of you who are less ossified :). But there really is an ingrained comfort level that makes me want to keep at least one custom mode for my "usual" set-up.
Is the lens the 400 DO?
Hi... yes that was the old 400 DO on the table
@@pangolinphotohosts818 It's my main lens for sports photography and probably the most underrated lens. Great IQ and the f4 even at low light it's easily handled with the high ISO capability of the R6 / 1Dx MKII I use. Mind you during my last safari in Kenya I took the 100-400. Great videos by the way
Do you have recommendations (or other videos) to help photographers determine the acceptable upper-level for ISO Auto for their particular camera bodies?
We have a video on that subject in the pipeline......
Hi Scott, as ISO is so particular for each camera body we do include it in our camera gear reviews only but haven't gotten one that covers all common camera bodies. Sorry for that... which camera do you shoot?
@@pangolinphotohosts818 I'm using a D7500, currently just with the kit zoom (70-300 DX 4.5-6.3) in Namibia, Botswana and Kenya, so far. Seems reasonably sharp. Looking toward the 200-500mm range for another lens, but at afforable price, I'll lose at least another stop, making the max acceptable ISO even more relevant.
Like your Videos!
Glad you like them!
The Digital Revolution has greatly changed photography, making it far easier. In the days of film, National Geographic photographers did not have much in burst frames/per/sec as their films were Kodachrome and Ektrachrome or Fujichrome. The photographer had to have the skill/knowledge to catch animal behavior with a burst rate of 3-6 depending on available light, how fast their Canon FD lenses were and their ISO was from 25-400, with 36 exposures (Canon did have a film magazine of 250 exp). The New Canon F1's fastest shutter speed was 1/2000 sec. Prime lenses gave the fastest apertures and zooms were slow. Yet, there are many Classic NG photos that are art. The other nice thing about Digital is it does't cost you anything to experiment and you can learn more quickly. Now the range of possibilities is much greater than the film days.
(Edited: Forgot to mention that auto focus Canon EF lenses came out in 1987, so before that it was manual focus FD lenses with only a few bulky and slow AF versions.)
Good One Mam 🙂
Thanks a lot 😊
Required detailed video tutorial for canon R7 along with rf 100-500
Noted
you're pretty😍
Hi
Its not the camera its the lense.the one on that camera must cost around £6000
Definitely. That lens is way too expensive for many viewers.