Great video! I successfully changed the pump in the parking lot where my car died. I had never even opened a gas tank before. It took about an hour. Side note: My pump was the original pump and I took the wire leads off the old motor by removing the nuts from the wire posts, then I just used the original wires and put them on the new motor's posts. This saved me from cutting and splicing the wires and gave me a better connection and was faster.
I found your postings a short while ago. Here's a simple thank you from an old guy for sharing your experiences, knowledge, and skill about daily repairs on autos of all types. I also appreciate your encouragement that your viewers can do this and that it can be an honorable business. Love the family involvement and banter. Wish you the best of wishes.
Hey thanks Terry! My videos have evolved a lil sense these old cell phone shots :) I guess it's the content that's important though. Plus I'm a lil less nervous and camera shy.
South Main Auto Repair Yes, I noticed that you were a little nervous and camera shy, but don't worry about I. It's normal for everyone. And besides, the content as you've mentioned is there. In your later videos, you're coming across with a lot of confidence and although you say that you don't think you're a good teacher, I have to disagree. You're doing a great job teaching. I've found over the years that explaining how something works forces you to really know the system. Otherwise, when people ask questions about what you say and you don't have most of the answers, then I would ask myself. Hell, maybe I really don't know enough about it myself. In my mind, teaching is a good thing as it forces you to really know the system yourself. See, I've already started to babble. Talk with you later Eric and have a good day!
Thanks for the confidence Terry. I couldn't have said that last part any better. I just tagged you in an other comment I made about this business. Believe it or not this can become just a bunch of rouge repairs. I come to work fix everything go home. No real thought process or passion to make sure I know how it actually works. Sounds ridiculous but it's true. So it leaves 2 options. Post videos of slapping crap together with no explanation or force yourself to make sure you know what you are doing and share that info refreshing your self at the same time. I am loving it. Bringing my zeal back for working on this rusty junk haha.
South Main Auto Repair I see some good things coming up for you a little down the road. When more people find your channel, you'll start to enjoy it even more. And as I've mentioned, you're a great teacher. You have a calm voice and you don't talk a hundred miles a minute like you're trying to blow smoke up someone's ass. With all the videos that I've seen, I'm really impressed with your knowledge and workmanship. Stay with it Eric!!!
I wanted to thank you for this video. I just replaced a fuel pump in my 99 L wagon 2.2L. This was a huge help for me since the Chilton book was vague with the instructions. I appreciate it
I bought my 97 legacy outback about a year ago... it’s held up pretty good until now. The owner told me a few problems but not the other ones, some being major like BOTH head gaskets leaking. I’ve had a weird problem though, stalled twice, once while driving down highway the lights and radio stayed on as the engine just shut off and I drifted to a stop, another time at a red light. There’s so many problems it’s very stressful... I work and sleep in my car, it’s al I got
While I realize you probably want to key your videos short and to the point, and have done these things dozens or hundreds of times, but some of us have never done this, so you should include every step, like splicing in the T to the fuel line (and indicating how to tell which one), and how to remove that panel above the fuel tank. Once you have done it a few times, it might be easy to just "pop it off", but you know where to (and where not to) apply pressure to do so. At least your video showed me which panel to remove, unlike the repair manual I have. I guess I am not part of your target audience; I am just a novice when it comes to DIY car repair. While I have been changing radiators and water pumps and alternators for 30 years, this is my first go at a fuel issue. Your video is just enough information for me to almost understand what you are doing, like if I watched my neighbor doing it.
I checked for spark with a timing light and "verified by sound" that the relay was working. When a vehicle dies in a parking lot, the biggest question is always, "Is my diagnosis correct?" This helped answer the question. Good video, you made it look easy and it was. Thanks.
Thanks, total time for me, about 2 and a half hours including a trip to the parts store. The hoses were tough to get off in 30 degree weather. I did the pump and fuel filter, both. Thanks, the wife has her car up and running. Buy the way, the car had a hesitation on acceleration from stops, for the last few months. I am hoping this goes away with the new pump. 1998 outback wagon, 145,000 miles.
my pump also failed on my 99 forester s turbo. the guy at the Subaru dealer says the pump can burn out if you always drive on a almost empty tank because there is no cooling by gasoline on these older style pumps. good video thanks :)
great content thanks for the tip with the hook tool! I'm that guy using the needle nose pliers to twist the hose off cussing the whole time, but no longer!
Great video thanks for sharing! I almost removed my pump in my 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon, but found that I have another problem - I've checked my pump and am getting no power to it. (Your video showed me which wires to check for power, so thanks for that!) Now have to try to figure out what's causing that. I do have symptoms of other electrical issues -- like the fact that the radio antenna goes up & down on it's own accord when the ignition is on, even though the radio is turned off. Someone suggested checking the ground wires in the engine compartment, but besides the battery ground wire, where are the others? ... Back to work.
Thanks for the video. I dropped my son off at school and while pulling away the car just died. Good place. Better than on the highway or at night. I changed the pump in the school parking lot. The old strainer disintegrated and got sucked up into the pump probably jamming it. The perfect example of irony.
Glad it could help! I always tell my customers every 30,000 miles or to be honest every time I owned a vehicle with a replaceable fuel filter I just changed them every year. So up to you really. Short term loss, long term gain IMO. Thanks for watching!
question is what causes the pump failure? I have owned three of these cars so far and none had a pump failure I dont let the fuel drop below a 1/4 tank though; 91 wagon had 312k miles when it got recycled due to rust
I realize it's been several years, but do you know what brand fuel pump you used and the part number? I have a 2003 Forester 2.5 N/A that needs the fuel pump replaced. The factory fuel pump is way to expensive.
Just for anyone else with this question OEM is Delphi FE0342, sometimes has a "C" in front of it, same part (box says both). Got one sitting here I'm about to put in and it looks the same as in the vid, down to the two gratuitous zipties. Dunno if it goes into later model years. Strainer is Delphi FS0095, sometimes listed with a "B" in front (again, box has both on it). That's for 1996 and presumably the whole first gen.
Hey Eric I am a new technician in Wisconsin and I run into a lot of rusty cars and trucks you should do a video on tools you should have working on rust buckets thanks
Hi there I have a similar issue, I have no power or ground on my fuel pump connector, I’ve done the test on the wires does that mean it’s the fuel pump relay ? Thanks
Great video. I have a question. I usually just replace the whole unit, thinking the fuel level sending unit or float are probably next to go out. That said, have you had any issues just replacing the motor? Are the other components more robust?
Eric- which set of sockets "twist sockets" are you using? I have been watching all of your videos (in order) and you also used this socket style on the f150 transmission dipstick tube bolt replacement that was rusted as well. I want to get the same sockets.
Should the light test work in all six of those electrical inputs? I just changed the fuel pump on my 99 forester and it still isn't pumping. 3 of the six electrical inputs light up when I test it but, three of them don't. And one of them makes it light up brighter than the other. Is this normal?
I've got a 2003 Subaru Legacy L sedan would this be similar of a job? I got a low input from fuel temperature sensor A, and a fuel gauge that doesn't drop below half
Terrific video. At 8:15 what is the brand name of those red handled electric cutters and pliers? They look very sturdy. With the new EVAP systems I have found that rust around the fuel pump to tank seal can trigger a small leak code. The lock ring on my fuel pump was so rusted at 10 years/70,000 miles that it was causing a P0456 small EVAP leak. I took the opportunity to change the pump while I had the tank off and got all new parts including entire pump assembly, lock ring, and gasket. Now the seal is tight and no more codes.
South Main Auto Repair Thanks. Ordered a pair today from the Snap On website. Look forward to using them when I replace a few fuel injector electrical connectors that became brittle and resulted in broken clip locks due to age and heat.
Hey Eric just a heads up, I've noticed that sometimes as with the Case in this video that I'm able to watch your Vids in 1080p witch is Full resolution HD but other times I'm only able to watch them in 720p which isn't as Good. Is it a UA-cam thing or maybe you can check the Settings on your Camera?
i have a question my man, i went to mechanic they replace the pump but my fuel delivery line a a retaining clip and we had to broke it off, forester 2004 xt, they put it back on but had to do some fishy stuff to old the pressure, can i just use a normal clip will it hold up? i cant find the part number for the fuel delivery line with the pushy retaining clip.?
Hi, I have a problem with my 97 impreza, one day was driving and the car start losing power, this happened 2 times in 2days and then the check engine light appear, so I check with a code scanner and the code was p0463, I bought a new fuel pump, thinking that was the problem, but now with your video I'm not sure, cause my car runs good and don't have problems anymore, no more check engine light or loss power but the only tiny problem is the gas gauge, give a bad lecture, sometimes is full and the next minute is in half tank and then is full again, do you know what could be the problem? Thanks
This same problem i think has happened to my subaru outback 2003 today. I was at a red light and all the sudden my car started shaking hard, i pulled over and checked rpm at idle. rpm wouldnt go up. i was stuck and hearing that noise like in your video. Luckily i had my uncle who gave me a push all the way home (15 minutes) with his truck. otherwise i would have been stuck. our orginal mechanic gave out and had no idea, the problem then was the car stalled after a dead stop. is that stalling from a dead stop also a symptom, rather a early one? then today we had another mechanic change idle control valvle, and pcv valvle. old codes were gone. changed spark plugs as well. going to have one more person check it out, if its not fuel pump then i have to junk it. it only has 90,000 miles on it. 🤐🤐. your video gave some hope.
Hi Eric, new subscriber here. Nice video! You used the test light to check power to the fuel pump. Obviously the light turning on means there is current but is it enough current? Apparently so but when diagnosing would it be better to use a multimeter and refer to the car's service manual for the acceptable range for V or amps? How reliable is the test light method for telling you if the current is sufficient?
AJFresh Useing a test light will load a circuit more than a meter. I can hook together a bunch of watch batteries and have a perfect 12.66v on a meter but no ability to carry current. The test light is a very under appreciated and utilized tool. You will see me use it to diagnose many complicated circuit problems in cars where a meter would confuse 90% of the people that use it. Have you seen my latest video diagnosing a chrysler TIPM using on a light? ua-cam.com/video/EQ9tqxsAu1o/v-deo.html Hope this helps explain a little.
+South Main Auto Repair A test light will tell you that you don't have an open or a short, it won't tell you if there is high resistance caused by corrosion in the wire or a connection. The light may light but that doesn't prove that there is enough current to run a fuel pump.
Where would the pump relay be located, I am trying to find mine on a 99 Legacy sedan and having troubles. Thanks in advance and keep up the good video's.
May I ask, doesn't the fuel pump connection need to be intrinsically safe. I don't know how you would accomplish that, but it seems odd that you would have this in a explosive atmosphere when the tank level is low.
There isn't enough Oxygen in there for it to be an explosive atmosphere. Explosive atmosphere = proper mix of fuel and air, too little air = no ignition.
Thanks a bunch for the informative video. Just had a fuel pump fail on my 2001 Forester. It gave me a couple days notice by 1) after driving about 30 miles, shutting off and leaving an hour, started up but died immediately. Did this two or three times before it would run continuously. 2) felt fuel supply "cut out" for a second or two while at highway speed. Thought all this was a fuel filter that was almost due to be replaced, so replaced it and not solved. Then I found this video and borrowed a fuel pressure kit from O'Reillys. No pressure. Then tested power at fuel pump harness and had momentary power. Verdict: Dead fuel pump. Ordered replacement parts from Rockauto for about $100 shipped, which included Airtex pump and strainer, plus new gasket. Thanks again for your help. Do you have a way for me to make a donation to show my appreciation? Paypal account?
+Scott Smith Not sure how to edit a comment, so replying to my own comment was the next best option. Wanted to add an important point; beware of a failing/failed Fuel Pump Relay. Like I mentioned previously, my Forester looked like a slam-dunk dead fuel pump. No pressure on the fuel line below filter, and momentary power at the fuel pump harness connector between pins 1 and 4. I installed my new pump, strainer, and gasket, and NO START! Ended up towing to a trusted mechanic, who diagnosed the problem as a relay that was intermittently functional. He said the pump was probably going out, which puts more load on the relay, causing the relay to fail. A chicken and egg proposition. How to test relay: remove from under dash on driver's side (LHD). Apply 12V to terminals 1 and 3 (coil or control circuit). Measure resistance at terminals 2 and 4 (load circuit) . Should be less than 10 Ohms. This test taken from Subaru Factory Service Manual 2001 Forester.
Notice you are using an Airtex Pump. Do you have good luck with the Airtex pumps from advance? They have bad reviews online but that could be from DIYers not checking wiring or leaving dirty filters. I always buy pumps from the OEM but it may not be worth it for this car. 75 for Airtex hanger vs 250 or more from Ford.
I'll tell ya I have installed a pile of them and have yet to be _haunted_ by one. Like you say though look at the shotty job most DIY'ers do and they are likely the one to be doing reviews too. Then again a lot of vehicles I put pumps in are on there way to the crusher in a few years too...
South Main Auto Repair thanks for the insight, sounds perfect for a 20yo rustbucket I drive when they salt. Really you are supposed to drop the exhaust and tank on this car(a thunderbird) but it is so horrible that I just cut a hole under the seat. I can also keep the failing old one, sometimes it needs a whack to start - advance is all over the place here and it has a lifetime warranty. Keep up the awesome work!
+South Main Auto Repair Haven't got diagnosis car just stopped on me one day fuseable link went bad finally figured that out then no sound from fuel pump was idling real shitty before that changed relay as well
Yeah... I know about the mic. I have upgraded cameras sense I did this video though so it got a little better. I bought a Sony Handy Cam instead of using my phone (like I was using in this one) but like a dummy I didn't check to see if the handy cam could take an remote mic... and of course it doesn't :(. At any rate I am a better mechanic than a TV Producer but I am slowly learning lol. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! I successfully changed the pump in the parking lot where my car died. I had never even opened a gas tank before. It took about an hour. Side note: My pump was the original pump and I took the wire leads off the old motor by removing the nuts from the wire posts, then I just used the original wires and put them on the new motor's posts. This saved me from cutting and splicing the wires and gave me a better connection and was faster.
I found your postings a short while ago. Here's a simple thank you from an old guy for sharing your experiences, knowledge, and skill about daily repairs on autos of all types. I also appreciate your encouragement that your viewers can do this and that it can be an honorable business. Love the family involvement and banter. Wish you the best of wishes.
Nice work Eric showing the symptoms, diagnosis and then the repair. As always, keep up the good work!
Hey thanks Terry! My videos have evolved a lil sense these old cell phone shots :) I guess it's the content that's important though. Plus I'm a lil less nervous and camera shy.
South Main Auto Repair Yes, I noticed that you were a little nervous and camera shy, but don't worry about I. It's normal for everyone. And besides, the content as you've mentioned is there. In your later videos, you're coming across with a lot of confidence and although you say that you don't think you're a good teacher, I have to disagree. You're doing a great job teaching. I've found over the years that explaining how something works forces you to really know the system. Otherwise, when people ask questions about what you say and you don't have most of the answers, then I would ask myself. Hell, maybe I really don't know enough about it myself. In my mind, teaching is a good thing as it forces you to really know the system yourself. See, I've already started to babble. Talk with you later Eric and have a good day!
Thanks for the confidence Terry. I couldn't have said that last part any better. I just tagged you in an other comment I made about this business. Believe it or not this can become just a bunch of rouge repairs. I come to work fix everything go home. No real thought process or passion to make sure I know how it actually works. Sounds ridiculous but it's true. So it leaves 2 options. Post videos of slapping crap together with no explanation or force yourself to make sure you know what you are doing and share that info refreshing your self at the same time. I am loving it. Bringing my zeal back for working on this rusty junk haha.
South Main Auto Repair I see some good things coming up for you a little down the road. When more people find your channel, you'll start to enjoy it even more. And as I've mentioned, you're a great teacher. You have a calm voice and you don't talk a hundred miles a minute like you're trying to blow smoke up someone's ass. With all the videos that I've seen, I'm really impressed with your knowledge and workmanship. Stay with it Eric!!!
Appreciate that Terry, Thanks a million for the vote of confidence!
I wanted to thank you for this video. I just replaced a fuel pump in my 99 L wagon 2.2L. This was a huge help for me since the Chilton book was vague with the instructions. I appreciate it
"My assistant" lol. I bet Vanessa loved that!
I bought my 97 legacy outback about a year ago... it’s held up pretty good until now. The owner told me a few problems but not the other ones, some being major like BOTH head gaskets leaking. I’ve had a weird problem though, stalled twice, once while driving down highway the lights and radio stayed on as the engine just shut off and I drifted to a stop, another time at a red light. There’s so many problems it’s very stressful... I work and sleep in my car, it’s al I got
While I realize you probably want to key your videos short and to the point, and have done these things dozens or hundreds of times, but some of us have never done this, so you should include every step, like splicing in the T to the fuel line (and indicating how to tell which one), and how to remove that panel above the fuel tank. Once you have done it a few times, it might be easy to just "pop it off", but you know where to (and where not to) apply pressure to do so. At least your video showed me which panel to remove, unlike the repair manual I have.
I guess I am not part of your target audience; I am just a novice when it comes to DIY car repair. While I have been changing radiators and water pumps and alternators for 30 years, this is my first go at a fuel issue. Your video is just enough information for me to almost understand what you are doing, like if I watched my neighbor doing it.
Yes, agreed. One a couple of mechanics in my life have said if you do a fuel pump, also do the fuel filter with it. 300k and it's still running !
I checked for spark with a timing light and "verified by sound" that the relay was working. When a vehicle dies in a parking lot, the biggest question is always, "Is my diagnosis correct?" This helped answer the question. Good video, you made it look easy and it was. Thanks.
Kelly Morey Glad it helped :)
Thanks, total time for me, about 2 and a half hours including a trip to the parts store. The hoses were tough to get off in 30 degree weather. I did the pump and fuel filter, both. Thanks, the wife has her car up and running. Buy the way, the car had a hesitation on acceleration from stops, for the last few months. I am hoping this goes away with the new pump. 1998 outback wagon, 145,000 miles.
Joe Sokolowski
i have the same issue. stalling after dead stop. it just died. did yours get fixed?
Joe Sokolowski i see your car is good now. hopefully this is the case with mine.
Did this fix that issue I have that problem tempted to buy a new iac valve
my pump also failed on my 99 forester s turbo. the guy at the Subaru dealer says the pump can burn out if you always drive on a almost empty tank because there is no cooling by gasoline on these older style pumps.
good video thanks :)
I recently got some of those snap-on stripper/crimpers. Great tool.
Your video quality has improved over the years!
will be doing this to my JDM 96 WRX STI wagon tomorrow, thanks for the video!
Eric O the early days. So serious, no snarky jokes? I still love these older vids. 😎
Ohhh man the old vids hahah yeahhh.....
Great for an old man like me to see every thing how too.
great content thanks for the tip with the hook tool! I'm that guy using the needle nose pliers to twist the hose off cussing the whole time, but no longer!
Quick check, nice access, new pump, Good Job!
Great video thanks for sharing! I almost removed my pump in my 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon, but found that I have another problem - I've checked my pump and am getting no power to it. (Your video showed me which wires to check for power, so thanks for that!) Now have to try to figure out what's causing that. I do have symptoms of other electrical issues -- like the fact that the radio antenna goes up & down on it's own accord when the ignition is on, even though the radio is turned off. Someone suggested checking the ground wires in the engine compartment, but besides the battery ground wire, where are the others? ... Back to work.
haha wanted to check out your older vids! it feels so different. Less nervous in the newer ones lol
kj Yeah think I had to "find myself" lol
Thanks for the video. I dropped my son off at school and while pulling away the car just died. Good place. Better than on the highway or at night. I changed the pump in the school parking lot. The old strainer disintegrated and got sucked up into the pump probably jamming it. The perfect example of irony.
Also, keeping enough fuel in the tank to submerge the pump will help it run cooler and avoid overheating-another culprit of premature pump failure.
...along with plugged filters and contamination. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I might have to replace mine and this is great step by step!
Zip ties are supplied for additional pump support instead of just the hose supporting the upper portion.
Beautiful, quality work
What's the fuel pressure for my 97 Subaru Impreza Wagon with a 2.2 liter engine????
Excellent video. Thank you. At what mileage interval should a fuel filter be replaced?
Glad it could help! I always tell my customers every 30,000 miles or to be honest every time I owned a vehicle with a replaceable fuel filter I just changed them every year. So up to you really. Short term loss, long term gain IMO. Thanks for watching!
What a very well presented video...thank u for ur tutorial
Hey, great video. Do you have a link or know the gasket part number for the furl pump cover? I can't seem to find anything about it on NAPA's website.
Thanks for that. I am doing one right now.
Very thorough!! Thank you sir.
Very Good . I'll be doing mine soon . Thanks
question is what causes the pump failure? I have owned three of these cars so far and none had a pump failure I dont let the fuel drop below a 1/4 tank though; 91 wagon had 312k miles when it got recycled due to rust
I realize it's been several years, but do you know what brand fuel pump you used and the part number? I have a 2003 Forester 2.5 N/A that needs the fuel pump replaced. The factory fuel pump is way to expensive.
Just for anyone else with this question OEM is Delphi FE0342, sometimes has a "C" in front of it, same part (box says both). Got one sitting here I'm about to put in and it looks the same as in the vid, down to the two gratuitous zipties. Dunno if it goes into later model years. Strainer is Delphi FS0095, sometimes listed with a "B" in front (again, box has both on it). That's for 1996 and presumably the whole first gen.
Hey Eric I am a new technician in Wisconsin and I run into a lot of rusty cars and trucks you should do a video on tools you should have working on rust buckets thanks
The Clearer the Vids, the Better we can see the Repairs ya know
Great tip with the hook tool Eric thx
Do you know if the fuel pump is accessible through the floorboard on the 2007 subaru outback?
Hi there I have a similar issue, I have no power or ground on my fuel pump connector, I’ve done the test on the wires does that mean it’s the fuel pump relay ? Thanks
Great video. I have a question. I usually just replace the whole unit, thinking the fuel level sending unit or float are probably next to go out. That said, have you had any issues just replacing the motor? Are the other components more robust?
Thank you South Main Auto!!! Great Videos!!!
Eric- which set of sockets "twist sockets" are you using? I have been watching all of your videos (in order) and you also used this socket style on the f150 transmission dipstick tube bolt replacement that was rusted as well. I want to get the same sockets.
Should the light test work in all six of those electrical inputs? I just changed the fuel pump on my 99 forester and it still isn't pumping. 3 of the six electrical inputs light up when I test it but, three of them don't. And one of them makes it light up brighter than the other. Is this normal?
Hehe i use the good ole smash a slightly smaller 12 point over the rusted fastener. Sockets are consumable anyway.
Great job
B
I've got a 2003 Subaru Legacy L sedan would this be similar of a job? I got a low input from fuel temperature sensor A, and a fuel gauge that doesn't drop below half
What would be causing my fuel pump relay fuse in the engine bay to keep frying? Any help greatly appreciated thank you!
May Subaru legacy 97 model won't start it cranking only but it won't start.what should I check
Or look for..to trave the problem
Is there a part 2 on your thoughts of why the fuel pump failed? Lol As always great videos!
Angel Garcia Nope what ya see is what ya get
GM fuel pumps will fail if you run out of gas as the gas lubricates the pump. Can we assume this may have happened in this case as well?
Terrific video. At 8:15 what is the brand name of those red handled electric cutters and pliers? They look very sturdy.
With the new EVAP systems I have found that rust around the fuel pump to tank seal can trigger a small leak code. The lock ring on my fuel pump was so rusted at 10 years/70,000 miles that it was causing a P0456 small EVAP leak. I took the opportunity to change the pump while I had the tank off and got all new parts including entire pump assembly, lock ring, and gasket. Now the seal is tight and no more codes.
Sandbag1300 Those are Snap On PWCS7CF
South Main Auto Repair Thanks. Ordered a pair today from the Snap On website. Look forward to using them when I replace a few fuel injector electrical connectors that became brittle and resulted in broken clip locks due to age and heat.
Hey Eric just a heads up, I've noticed that sometimes as with the Case in this video that I'm able to watch your Vids in 1080p witch is Full resolution HD but other times I'm only able to watch them in 720p which isn't as Good. Is it a UA-cam thing or maybe you can check the Settings on your Camera?
i have a question my man, i went to mechanic they replace the pump but my fuel delivery line a a retaining clip and we had to broke it off, forester 2004 xt, they put it back on but had to do some fishy stuff to old the pressure, can i just use a normal clip will it hold up? i cant find the part number for the fuel delivery line with the pushy retaining clip.?
Hi, I have a problem with my 97 impreza, one day was driving and the car start losing power, this happened 2 times in 2days and then the check engine light appear, so I check with a code scanner and the code was p0463, I bought a new fuel pump, thinking that was the problem, but now with your video I'm not sure, cause my car runs good and don't have problems anymore, no more check engine light or loss power but the only tiny problem is the gas gauge, give a bad lecture, sometimes is full and the next minute is in half tank and then is full again, do you know what could be the problem? Thanks
Sounds like it could be a problem with your sending unit but it would have to be tested to be sure.
I like those crimpers what flavor are they. The crimp looks like it squeezes around the connector.
+Eric Corse Snap On
+South Main Auto Repair I thought so thanks
Thanks so much for that mate
This same problem i think has happened to my subaru outback 2003 today. I was at a red light and all the sudden my car started shaking hard, i pulled over and checked rpm at idle. rpm wouldnt go up. i was stuck and hearing that noise like in your video. Luckily i had my uncle who gave me a push all the way home (15 minutes) with his truck. otherwise i would have been stuck. our orginal mechanic gave out and had no idea, the problem then was the car stalled after a dead stop. is that stalling from a dead stop also a symptom, rather a early one? then today we had another mechanic change idle control valvle, and pcv valvle. old codes were gone. changed spark plugs as well. going to have one more person check it out, if its not fuel pump then i have to junk it. it only has 90,000 miles on it. 🤐🤐. your video gave some hope.
Did you figure out the problem same thing going on with my 04 Outback 128k miles on it just did a bunch of work trying to have a daily
Awesome video!!
Hi Eric, new subscriber here. Nice video! You used the test light to check power to the fuel pump. Obviously the light turning on means there is current but is it enough current? Apparently so but when diagnosing would it be better to use a multimeter and refer to the car's service manual for the acceptable range for V or amps? How reliable is the test light method for telling you if the current is sufficient?
AJFresh Useing a test light will load a circuit more than a meter. I can hook together a bunch of watch batteries and have a perfect 12.66v on a meter but no ability to carry current. The test light is a very under appreciated and utilized tool. You will see me use it to diagnose many complicated circuit problems in cars where a meter would confuse 90% of the people that use it. Have you seen my latest video diagnosing a chrysler TIPM using on a light? ua-cam.com/video/EQ9tqxsAu1o/v-deo.html Hope this helps explain a little.
I'll check it out. I'm new to this stuff and this is an area in particular I will be studying more thank you
+South Main Auto Repair A test light will tell you that you don't have an open or a short, it won't tell you if there is high resistance caused by corrosion in the wire or a connection. The light may light but that doesn't prove that there is enough current to run a fuel pump.
it creates more of a load than a meter... yes I do current ramp test them and do voltage drop testing.
does fuel line need to be bled after filter replacement?
Where would the pump relay be located, I am trying to find mine on a 99 Legacy sedan and having troubles. Thanks in advance and keep up the good video's.
drivers side kickpanel. up at very top. round top with a 4 wire connector.
Any recommendations on fuel pump brands from anyone for a 2000 Subaru Outback 4cyl? The OEM fuel pump is just way too expensive for me
Denso
Well explained..
What's the part number on them crimper pliers? They look solid
s13konrad Don't remember exactly but they are ones I got from snap on and they do work really well.
South Main Auto Repair Thanks brotha
May I ask, doesn't the fuel pump connection need to be intrinsically safe. I don't know how you would accomplish that, but it seems odd that you would have this in a explosive atmosphere when the tank level is low.
There isn't enough Oxygen in there for it to be an explosive atmosphere. Explosive atmosphere = proper mix of fuel and air, too little air = no ignition.
Thanks a bunch for the informative video. Just had a fuel pump fail on my 2001 Forester. It gave me a couple days notice by 1) after driving about 30 miles, shutting off and leaving an hour, started up but died immediately. Did this two or three times before it would run continuously. 2) felt fuel supply "cut out" for a second or two while at highway speed. Thought all this was a fuel filter that was almost due to be replaced, so replaced it and not solved.
Then I found this video and borrowed a fuel pressure kit from O'Reillys. No pressure. Then tested power at fuel pump harness and had momentary power. Verdict: Dead fuel pump. Ordered replacement parts from Rockauto for about $100 shipped, which included Airtex pump and strainer, plus new gasket.
Thanks again for your help. Do you have a way for me to make a donation to show my appreciation? Paypal account?
+Scott Smith
Not sure how to edit a comment, so replying to my own comment was the next best option.
Wanted to add an important point; beware of a failing/failed Fuel Pump Relay. Like I mentioned previously, my Forester looked like a slam-dunk dead fuel pump. No pressure on the fuel line below filter, and momentary power at the fuel pump harness connector between pins 1 and 4.
I installed my new pump, strainer, and gasket, and NO START! Ended up towing to a trusted mechanic, who diagnosed the problem as a relay that was intermittently functional. He said the pump was probably going out, which puts more load on the relay, causing the relay to fail. A chicken and egg proposition.
How to test relay: remove from under dash on driver's side (LHD). Apply 12V to terminals 1 and 3 (coil or control circuit). Measure resistance at terminals 2 and 4 (load circuit) . Should be less than 10 Ohms. This test taken from Subaru Factory Service Manual 2001 Forester.
Second time watching 6/29/2020
Thanks and thumb up. 😊
nice wire crimpers what brand are they?
+Joe Briggs Snap On
Why not replace assembly instead of just pump? THANK FRIEND
Thank you ! You helped me fix my 1994 Subaru Legacy !! I’ll subscribe but I prolly won’t watch anymore videos lol thank you tho ✊🏿😏
I guess you don't need shrink wraps on the electrical connector ?
This was my concern watching this video as well- if the power lead came loose from that butt connector inside the fuel tank....
Notice you are using an Airtex Pump. Do you have good luck with the Airtex pumps from advance? They have bad reviews online but that could be from DIYers not checking wiring or leaving dirty filters. I always buy pumps from the OEM but it may not be worth it for this car. 75 for Airtex hanger vs 250 or more from Ford.
I'll tell ya I have installed a pile of them and have yet to be _haunted_ by one. Like you say though look at the shotty job most DIY'ers do and they are likely the one to be doing reviews too. Then again a lot of vehicles I put pumps in are on there way to the crusher in a few years too...
South Main Auto Repair thanks for the insight, sounds perfect for a 20yo rustbucket I drive when they salt. Really you are supposed to drop the exhaust and tank on this car(a thunderbird) but it is so horrible that I just cut a hole under the seat. I can also keep the failing old one, sometimes it needs a whack to start - advance is all over the place here and it has a lifetime warranty. Keep up the awesome work!
alb12345672 Its usually the GM or FORD applications that seem to be the most problematic. Harness issues.
I need to know how to pull the fill pipe on 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback
they are usually a rusty mess. Just pull the plastic cover off it and it is pretty easy to do
How similar is this yo a 98 forester
what brand fuel pump is that?
what brand are those stripping crimping pliers?
Snap-On
Changed the pump n fuse still won’t turn on
Did this and still won't start I hear pump run not getting fuel to injectors
Kyleon Banger Any codes? injector pulse, spark?
+South Main Auto Repair
Haven't got diagnosis car just stopped on me one day fuseable link went bad finally figured that out then no sound from fuel pump was idling real shitty before that changed relay as well
Was a bad wiring harness
There has been a recall on the wiring harness in 2018 here in Australia , and thank you Eric for the best auto u tube channel yet!
informative...
Why did the fuel pump fail? It's old.
Same question I’m asking it cut out when he was gonna explain
I have this problem in my Subaru 2000 could you fix my car please ???
what are those sockets called? thank you
I always referred to them as "twist sockets" Try to google that and see what you come up with
Windows XP in the house!!!
3:00am... C A N' T S T O P W A T C H I N G . .
G O T O B E D . . !
does anyone oil undercoat there cars there? In ontario it's the only thing that makes them last!
Rick James A few here and there
I was referred to do that since in the winter they dump salt excessively where I stay at
I,m tired about some mechanic said yes everything fixed after that they don't do nothing
Thanks for the video. You need to invest in microphone though. The sound is pretty bad.
Yeah... I know about the mic. I have upgraded cameras sense I did this video though so it got a little better. I bought a Sony Handy Cam instead of using my phone (like I was using in this one) but like a dummy I didn't check to see if the handy cam could take an remote mic... and of course it doesn't :(. At any rate I am a better mechanic than a TV Producer but I am slowly learning lol. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@SouthMainAuto The sound was fine, all pertinent information was clearly conveyed.
Gotta get some pads because i'm🤣 running out of undies
God I hope I never need to replace the fuel pump on my 97 Outback lmao. Its got 230k
Why advance auto i have never had any luck buying any of their electrical products oem all the way for me.
where are you I.m NY 10940
nice jooob
This is completle usles video.
Субару айғыр гои
can't even hear you
Less talking, more wrench turning
Looks nothing like mine idiot should label it with the right car
Looks like he marked the correct car maybe you need glasses