Permaculture Tree Management - Opening light and succession direction
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- Опубліковано 16 бер 2024
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Happy growing!
I recently excavated a pond here in Dallas, Texas. There were several cedar elms whos roots are now fully submerged in standing water during our rainy season. I’m anticipating total die off, but for now, am hoping to use their canopies to shield black walnuts and persimmons from the harsh summer sun while they get established. We’ll see how it works! Thanks as always for the great content Sean!
you could make some low renewal cuts on the peach so it could fruit at chest level and still let light to the pawpaw - might prolong the peach too if it’s trunk is ok
Great idea, might get some fresh healthy growth for a few more years
Love hearing your thought process! ❤
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The timing on this is impeccable, area of our woods we’re trying to thin out and put more productive plants in that space.
Vegetable oil as a lubricant for your chainsaw? Interesting. Any issues with the chainsaw? What about veg.oil for other equipment? 😁
I am not an expert but I feel like the main problem you *may* run into is the oil polymerizing if it gets hot enough. I doubt that anyone could even run a chainsaw that hard but it’s the first thing that comes to mind
It's the only stuff I've used for a bunch of years now. To be real I don't do a ton of chainsaw work so if there are issues with it showing up with heavy use I wouldn't know, but for most of the year it works great and is extremely low cost.
I run veg oil in my saws too. No problems in the heat, the issue comes in freezing temps, the oil turns to a gel if you leave it out. I just put the saw inside to keep it liquid
@@edibleacres Just curious: when people have converted their automobile engines to burn used vegetable oil as fuel, they say that the engine's exhaust smells like french fries. LOL.
Do you sell french fries when you use your chainsaw. But then again, you probably use fresh veg. oil. 🤷♂️
I love the idea of the peach/pawpaw guild. I saw your older video on it and have since pushed some pawpaw seed to the north of my peaches
Hope it works in wonderful ways for you
Very valuable insights indeed - thank you as always for sharing!
Good stuff! Many of the trees we're managing this way are Beech to release light to lower shrub layers. Also working piecemeal to remove declining white pines as time and bandwidth allow, and that gives us considerable light increases. Some of these spaces have been intentionally planted but in others it's nice to observe what volunteers itself and use that as inspiration.
Great ideas and plan!
I like this kind of discussion alot because I don’t know anyone else who is on this same page. I have 8 acres of abandoned farm land and I have to selectively cull trees and replace them with more desirable plants.
I suspect there are many folks out there chipping away at transitioning certain trees into other trees.
Pollarding trees is appropriate in the right context such as what you have done here. In France where I live, there is an obsession with pollarding almost every tree in every garden, park and roadside every year. It's hideous and disfiguring - dead men's fingers rising from the earth. But the élagage business is big money here.
The pawpaws are natives, and the apple, while not native to North America, will provide a lot of forage to bees and other pollinators.
Natives and non natives very often make wonderful neighbors
Informative video as always. My peach trees are short lived too but grow fast and start producing early. Its worth it to just buy a new one every few years.
That is reasonable and maybe also super worthwhile saving pits and planting them so you can have seedling peaches for free that last maybe sub 10 years but make a ton of fruit in the meantime... :)
I'm mainly pulling out cedars in my woods and leaving select oak, walnut, hickory, honeylocust, blackcherry, mulberry, persimmon. The cedars are being used to build my house, barn, fencing.
Sounds like an incredibly abundant landscape you have, wow!
Can we see some of Juan's spoons? Does he have a youtube channel?
I’m in Lake Elmo Minnesota growing zone five a. I always thought that we could not grow pawpaw here but you make it sound like you can. I’ve got to believe I’m in a colder climate than you are. Can I grow Paw Paws in Minnesota? 5a?
I think your climate would be just on the edge. Very worth exploring. Perhaps it's more of planting three or four trees, and a nice fertile and gentle microclimate, rather than a few acres of Orchard planting that you're hoping to yield as an income stream. But the climate is moving in a way where these trees should be happy with you where you are.
very clever idea to put the pawpaw in the shade of the peach
It seems to really work
I think those guilds will be happier. Interested to see how the pollard stump responds. Was the maple running sap when you cut it? I love the oysters on the willow. I have come across a large windthrown willow that had two kinds of culinary wild mushrooms fruiting (oyster and hericium) from the half decaying/half live log. I run cheap veg oils in my battery pole chainsaw. Most of the time it is fantastic. I have pollarded a ton of willow with it (mostly at 6-8' on 2-3" diameter trees). If the temperature is particularly cold, then I've found the veg oil can gum up, doesn't lubricate very well, and can seem to strain the battery electric motor. While petroleum bar oils come in a winter and summer weight, some loggers thin out the common bar oil with diesel fuel to make it flow better during Winter. I've been contemplating trying to thin the cold veg oil with some cheap alcohol in hopes to make it perform during the winter. I have one gas powered saw that I've run veg oil to lube the bar. It does alright. The hot engine does seem make the oil sticky when it sits and cools and I have had to do extra cleaning to the saw as a part of servicing it.
What are your thoughts on paw paw with basswood - I've just planted a few paw paw but think I have space for a larger tree in the space....
Hmm. I didn't know maple could be cut for regrowth.
I have three pawpaw trees showing up in about a month. Now I’m thinking about peaches…
Curious on your apple and other fruit tree pruning if you have any specific ways of pruning? Maybe prune to eventually stop pruning?
I haven't made any videos about how to prune because I'm still learning as I go, and there's just so much out there. On older trees I am trying to slowly shape them into a place where they are more balanced, and stable and open, so that they do require the least amount of pruning in the long run. 10 years in, and it seems to be moving in the right direction.
❤
I'm growing some young paw paws. I intend to place a peach south of one, but what are some other early succession plants I should consider placing south of my youngins?
I have heard of folks doing annual crops like corn or sorghum or sunflower to the south of paw paws if they wanted a short term shade offer. River Locust could be a very fast growing nitrogen fixing shrub to not only provide some quick shade but also a fair bit of fertility. Siberian Peashrub, Gumi, autumn olive. Just a couple other ideas.
In your experience, have you found pollarding or copicing to create weaker branches? And with fruiting trees, can this create an issue with the weight of the fruit? Maybe in high wind areas this could be a bigger issue.
Appreciate you! 😊
We appreciate you too!
I'm not sure that I would suggest pollarding as a way to manage very long lift and high value trees that will be producing fruit and nuts in a landscape. I think it's a better system for managing early succession trees and shrubs, who offer the role of growing quickly, stabilizing soil, and ample mulch to support other characters. A flush to ground coppicing with good selection of the strongest shoots for the longer haul would be the best management strategy for trees you care about, but need to hit a reset button on
How about replacing the non native Norway maple with a native treee? This should be a progression to help the insect population. According to Doug Tallamy the insect population would benefit greatly from a transition to natives.
I do similar stuff on the fence line by continuous felling (coppicing but sometimes pollard as well) of black locust which then are cultivated for upwards growth of new shoots to use as poles for garden projects. Similar with mulberry, we pollard this and that to keep the understory (on my side of the fence) from getting too shady. Being on the south side of said larger trees allows fruit trees to grow practically under the drip line of black locust and mulberry. And in fact I think it's beneficial with our late frosts, as we're regularly getting peaches in there. Shot a short video about that last year! :) Feel free to check it out - ua-cam.com/video/XKVhXusV9Xk/v-deo.html