Carvel Planking Ep 20: Caulking the Hull
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2022
- A different look at traditional caulking from an Australian perspective. Principal of the Sydney Wooden Boat School Ian Smith shows how he caulked the hull of his carvel-planked Ranger class gaff-rigged new build, and discusses the tools, materials and methods of traditionally caulking a hull with cotton and oakum. He shows how the Australian way of doing it follows the English tradition and differs from the way it's done in the USA and Canada. The video is full of tips Ian can pass on after a long career in wooden boatbuilding and boatbuilding education. He also pays the seams (fills them with seam compound) using traditional linseed oil putty.Other episodes can be seen @smithysboatshed.
- Навчання та стиль
That was the best how to for Chalking on the net .Myself working as a Timber Shipwright and owning a carvel planked boat myself there is always somthing to learn from others the vidios you have realiced so far have been great and very informative to say the least but the information is now recorded and not lost to time as there is not to many now that have the skill sets to pass them on to the next generation keep it up and enjoy the work
That’s the plan Judy, I’m trying to get it all down. Thanks for your comments.
smithy! im in the process of restoring a 1964 Huon/celery top ketch and just about to lift her out of the water. your editorials are a lot of help thanks
I will never build a boat, but I can appreciate your craftsmanship, talent, and experience. You made this interesting. Thank you
You are very welcome
In Scandinavia we use oakon (tar hamp) under waterline and cotton over waterline.
thank you for this video its been more helpful than you could imagine. i repaired some bad leaks on my gaff ketch and whilst i stopped the water i was very fearful of doing more damage than was already present. your video has helped guide me to better practice and hopefully better and safer seams. i have also retired my claw hammer and moved to lighter mallets with the intention to make a proper mallet at some point.
Glad it helped
This boat looks like absolute perfection. Really inspiring work! Thank you for all the info and knowledge.
Incredibly well put together, and great humor. I'll be suggesting that my crew watch this! Thank you kindly for this.
Cheers, thankyou.
"...failed the gloop test...". That had me laughing for quite some time, while mourning various tools of mine that have failed the same test!
Great minds think alike!
Thanks so much Ian, you're a good teacher. I thought I was the only one who added chalk to my primer as the final sandable stopping so thanks for reassuring me I'm not that that crazy😂 Also you're so right about the stranded cotton we use here in the U.K, doesnt behave like the American version, i suppose its just what one gets used to. Thanks again for all you do to keep our tradition alive and booming.
Cheers Jim.
I just got my copy of Wooden Boatbuilding and am hearing Ian’s voice and accent (I’m ‘Murican) as I read it. 😂
Cheers Roger, it works like subtitles.
Thank you for a lot of useful information.
Glad it was helpful!
This series was fascinating to watch. How did they caulk the planks in the 14-15th century?
Pretty sure they did it the same way, with oakum.
Thank you for another comprehensive video! I especially love them because they are based on a long period of experience. Unfortunately some channels are produced by first timers who try to be the instructional on something they have never done before.
Thank you, and you’re right.
Hahaha. The ending was perfect. Great video! Will you also be making videos on seam maintenance? What is the process of restoring old seams with crumbling compound? Does the cotton need to be redone too? Thanks for sharing your craft!
No plans to make a video on seam maintenance. Crumbling compound needs to be raked out. If the cotton is still white, harden it up again with a caulking iron and apply new seam compound. If the cotton is black or comes out easily and breaks easily it should be replaced. Good luck!
Thanks for info.
No problem!
Loved this video mate. I must slip a 50ft ex cray cutter to caulk the Garboard strakes and paint the hull. Good to be shown that linseed putty is used to fair the seams. I was almost thinking of slapping tar under the waterline as a critter deterrent. Any thoughts?.
Good anti-fouling paint is best under the waterline. Creosote often used to be used as a primer under the waterline but you’d have to experiment because many anti-fouling paints won’t stick to it. Best to use plenty of anti-fouling paint and maintain it well. A sacrificial docking strip under the keel is also a good idea.
Ah mate much appreciated! :) Thank you for such a thorough and well explained video on caulking, with the why's and why nots was so very helpful. A really informative video that will be watched for years to come.
I am myself restoring a carvel planked sailing boat from around 1964, she's been drying out for a good number of years, although she was in the water for a very short while last year apparently... Anyhow, she's dry! - And i'm waiting until the spring here Uk, so April time, to caulk & pay her, so that i can launch her around 4-6 weeks after , so as not to let the putty dry rock hard for when she takes up. It's a balance, not wanting to over 'tighten' the hull for when she takes up, nor obviously have her too loose. Your video has been a great help, and once more, thank you for putting it 'out there' 🙏 A quick question i have though if you happen to have a moment to answer is, ' Is it a risk to over tight the caulking on a dry boat?' i fear popping fasteners etc when she takes up if there is a lot of room for 'taking up' and the caulking be too packed?. Thank you once more! :)
Yes there is a risk of having the caulking too tight. It’s best to try to swell the planking before caulking, the best method is to rig a soaker hose around the waterline (pierced hose) often inside a plastic curtain. Of course you need some means of draining the floor. Alternately tack hessian bags to the hull and keep them wet.
@@SmithysBoatshed Ah, brilliant advice thank you very much! I was actually thinking of pre-soaking for a few days, spraying sea water from one of those pump sprayer things, but somebody said not to...She's outside so draining isn't a problem. Thanks again, i'll be taking your advice.
Olá aqui no Brasil é conhecido como calafetagem.
Most enjoyable! Excellent caulking tutorial.. how about working on dried out hulls.. should you soak it (below the WL) prior to caulking.. it makes sense you would. Does the boat go back into the water asap or just keep it damp until launching?
Definitely soak a dried-out hull and launch as soon as possible after caulking.
That last iron is a de-caulking iron 🎉😂😊
Hi Smithy, nice work. Can you tell me what you use for primer? I always thought that if you didn't loop the caulking that it would stretch it too much when you hammer it in.
International Yacht Primer above waterline, International Primocon below. You’re right about stretching the cotton as you hammer it in, you have to have enough slack in the long loops pictured in the thumbnail to allow for that. If it gets too tight, ease the loops.
Quite thoroughly shown and described. Excellent. I see carvel planked boats here in the Northeast U.S, that all show seam lines after a bit due to the big difference between the hot August heat and the bitter February blizzards and nothing expands and contracts exactly the same. I don't mind the look since its kind of honest and historic. When I saw you went the extra mile to use the primer mixed with talc (which I had never seen before) and paint it on the seams and sand it until they disappear, it made me wonder. Would you say that stored outdoors or in unheated buildings in Sydney's climate, that they stay invisible for a number of years? Do you know others that don't bother with that? Interested in your opinion. Wish they would let me give an extra thumbs up but, alas, UA-cam is formulaic.
Thanks Paul. Unfortunately carvel seams will always move and eventually show. The stopping just makes it look good for a while. I believe that those who can’t stand to see the seams don’t deserve a wooden boat.
@@SmithysBoatshed Quite so!
Have to love that the dastardly deed done 25 years ago (by someone with “low moral character”) still rankles after all these years. There are some actions for which there is no forgiveness but it never occurred to me that one might involve a caulking mallet. 😂
It was a pretty special mallet, and irreplaceable.
Does your book cover recaulking a hull and cover doing the cabin sole and interior in more detail?
I’m afraid it does not, it mainly covers several different hull construction methods.
arte de calafetar.
Mr. Smithy's. , put subtitles, to translate into Portuguese, thanks
Sorry JP, I’m just a boatbuilder, I only speak Australian (English).
@@SmithysBoatshed he means that if you add subtitles (in English) that they can later be translated by UA-cam into other languages for folks watching in many different countries. I've never done it myself but there are supposed to be various ways this is accomplished. UA-cam has a feature to auto-create subtitles, kind of like how speech-to-text works on your phone. Somewhere in the Creator's Studio there is a button you can hit to start this feature; It works ok but it has trouble with words that have different or obscure meanings (lots of those in boat building), and slang, or things said with heavy accents. Another method is that volunteers for your channel can take the time type out the closed cations (subtitles), this is more accurate but requires those volunteers. Anyway, great channel and I greatly respect your dedication to preserving your vast knowledge on video.
@@SteelDoesMyWill thanks
put the caption anyway Australian [english]