Clever, but I would have thought that alternate teeth would or should be sharpened with a bevel to the side, - like: left, then right etc, in a manner similar to that used when sharpening chainsaw chains, but with somewhat less angles, depending on material being cut. For example less angle, or bevel on teeth for ripping wood (cutting along the grain) and more bevel on teeth for cross cutting timber.? 🤔
As a saw doctor there are many things wrong with this video lots of TCT saws have alternate angles on the front of the teeth, and just sharpening the front of the tooth will reduce the kerf also when saws are sharpened professionally the top of the tooth is also ground this is really important when the saw is a triple chip.
I cut sheet steel- my blades get shagged so I sharpen them to save $60 each time- works brilliantly for me- I havnt cut wood in maybe 5 years- I have good blades for that should I ever need them.
Big Hi from Canada. Great simple solution to sharpen your blades. I'm going to do the same. I could hear the gear drive in your grinder screaming. I had the same issue. I loosened the 4 mount bolts on the grinder head, opened the head and relubricated the gears. The Chinese smutz they assemble them is stiff grease and eventually comes off the gears.Looking forward to future project builds.
I like the ideas here. Suggestion: set a nut on the trolly, install a stop nut on the bolt, extend a bolt out over the edge, secure a stop, and and adjust the bolt out and in to accommodate the blade diameter. Figure out a tooth stop to assure even sharpening on each tooth. Some saw blades have alternating pitch on the teeth. Will this set-up work on those? Thanks for the ideas.
Looks like you keep the blade 90° (perpendicular) to the table at all times. Aren't those carbide tips set at a compound angle? I know mine are, alternate between each tooth.
I cut metal- the blades are ground square. yes- for wood you would tilt the grinder, do every second tooth- then res the other way and do the alternates
great idea, I don't use my table saw a lot and have a number of old blades setting in the shelf, I'm only going to need to do this once every 4 or 5 years.
Good explanation, very helpful, l will have a crack as there is satisfaction in recycled sharp goods for your own use. I got a price to sharpen at a shop and honestly it not worth it for a “jack of all trades”. Thanks for blade description as there are so so many types.. kind regards..
What happens if you sharpen 1 tooth more than others? Is taking the same amount off each tooth critical? Since there is a left/right tooth is there a difference in direction of the sharpening rotating
The reason I sharpen my blades is that I destroy them cutting steel panels. These are metal cutting blades with uniform set. There is no left and right. if you sharpen a wood blade like this you will get a slight 'fluffy' edge to the cut
That would have been a none tungsten tooth blade back when they were still a thing. With those saws you could offer up a grinding wheel to the spinning saw to give you a quick sharpen ( that would be dangerous by todays standards tho)
@@tedf2 yes you could use a hand file and that is how is was ment to be done but as a quick and dirty way to get a sharp edge back many wood machinists would use an old bench grinding wheel and offer it up to the front of the blade as it was spinning in the saw table. Took way less time than filling individual teeth 1 at a time
That was a great video I knew there had to be a way to sharpen those blades. I saw where one guy was taking those type saw blades and making knives outta them
Excellent. I've watched about 4 of these and they all make awkward mistakes.. IMO ... except yours. This is the jump off point for me. The biggest mistake most make is emulating the Harbor Freight sharpener which pulls the grinder towards the blade teeth.. making the alignment critical (unachievable)!!. Your recognizing that the grinder angle (to the blade) has to be adjustable is right on as well. I'm going to attempt to add a spring-driven 'auto-advance' - that holds a bit of circular pressure on the blade and when you pull the tray back it click advances to the next tooth. that would seem to make it a lot faster.. but still scratchin that out. Thanks again for your contribution. very creative...
To save depth time and relocation the screw make a channel slide with a sliding peice inside the channel to at moves forward nad backwards to the depth you need per blade. Use a tightening screw to hold it in place. This is a good idea
I think you need to make it very clear in the notes just below the video that this is for sharpening blades used for cutting metal and not wood blades which have different teeth settings
Hello Sir, thanks a lot for your video, I wonder if the diamond blade will also work with a old blade, it does not has tungsten. it s all the same material. Thanks again!
Yes it will work very well. in fact you can just use ordinary grinding or cutting disc on old style blades so long as it is a nice fresh one with good edge. thanks for your question Gerado
it works, but why sharpen a poor quality blade? they go blunt after so little use, it's better to get a tungsten tipped one, even a secondhand one and sharpen it, in my view (assuming you can get one for your saw).
Hi hope your feeling well after sharpening those tct blades, dont mean to worry you but thats COBALT dust coming off those blades HIGHLY CANCEROUS, here in ireland we have to shp them on a cnc machine totally enclosed and once a year we empty try and dust forms into small tennis balls
@@t.h.o.r. What is the composition of carbide? They consist of hard carbides or carbonitrides of metals from the IV to VI subgroup of the periodic table, held together by binder metals, mostly cobalt and nickel. These cutting materials maintain their hardness at very high process temperatures due to the high melting points of the carbides.
@@alladd2354 do you think moving a diy setup outside and wearing a mask would stop the problem? Or would the dust always be in the yard getting wind swept into our lungs?
easily done - but as the blades I use are always the same ones Ive found that 4 holes gives me the righ setback for each of my blade types- its great I have sharp blades all the time now at no cost!
Hello, I have used your method of sharpening but find that the blades are still blunt. Do I sharpen it for too short or could there be another problem?
If you will look closely, you will see that every other tooth is set at an opposing angle, a mirrored angle, if you will... In order to get a sharp blade, every other tooth has to be ground to the original angles on two separate axis'. Look closely at the angles on a new blade. It should be obvious. Then rotate your grinder to accommodate each angle, sharpening every other tooth.
@@TheRainHarvester I am not particularly successful. Perhaps the blades I try to sharpen are of poor quality, jig is not setup correctly or I'm sharpening for too short periods. In the meanwhile, I have moved on to buying Freud blades. Although expensive here in South Africa it lasts and is worth sending away to be sharpened professionally.
Good video and gives me some good ideas to improve my setup. However, whenever grinding carbide you have to use breathing protection (eg a respirator) - what you did is very bad for your health and by not wearing a mask on your youtube video you endanger others watching who will mimic you. I'd strongly recommend eye protection as well. Whenever I've had my blades sharpened professionally they come back ground on the face tooth edge, but also top-ground, and depending on the saw blade, some other funky angles. Be good if you could cater for that with your setup. I like your simple stopper idea but to make it faster and tool-less, could you sink a few holes in the base and use a dowel peg to save time? Or is a something tool-less not solid enough for the stop and might allow the angle grinder blade into the saw throat?
So today I built one based on this design with some modifications. For the stop I just drove a section of threaded rod through a block. Cut a notch at the end of the threaded rod to make it a flat head screw. So to adjust the stop you just turn the screw. Everything is working perfectly except the abrasive disc/diamond wheel I got destroys the carbide teeth. Back to the internet search.
@@davidjmurphy Did you find a particular diamond wheel that is suitable? I have one that is kinda rough, and I was thinking there had to be a better one.
@@TheRainHarvester I gave up on it. Seemed like I was chipping the teeth and creating a dangerous hazard, like they might fly off during use. I searched and found a high tech sharpening service I might ship them to.
because I cut steel poly panel with my saws and aluminum extrusions Ive been going througha blade per week- Not anymore! Ive saved buying 3 new blades since I made the vid. Its not quite as nice as a brand new blade - but close. :)
An excellent video for content but the sound quality was poor at times as though you were facing away from the mic, or your power tools were closer to it than you. I don’t normally mention things like that, but it felt like I was missing a lot of interesting stuff.
the specs?.....you want me to come and measure up your blades and leave you with a set of measurements for a machine that will sharpen them? This channel provides inspiration- not a detailed design service.
@@chriscotterill5557 thats the spirit!just have a close look at what ive done- ive left room for improvements- also read what otherpeople have suggested here- good luck- im saving hundreds of dollars now. i have not bought a blade since I made this. And I cut steel and alloy so its hard on blades
Looove the setup, and it should work reasonably well for all but my most expensive TS and CS blades. It will certainly save $$ for the routine sharpening of the basic blades. Many of those other blades for me, however are triple chip and this jig will not accommodate them. Not to be a butthead, but the early part of your video where you tossed blades on top of each other made me cringe. The carbide teeth, while hard, are also a brittle compound and prone to cracking when impacted upon other hard surfaces. Smacking carbide teeth against each other is guaranteed to damage them over time. I had several teeth come flying at me from the tablesaw after one of my carpenters hit a nail and didn't inspect the blade after. Several teeth were cracked and three more actually came off the blade. If not for my safety glasses, I would lost my left eye.
I agree, lost all respect for this video right from that beginning, killed the sound and fast forwarded it through the main parts. Too many cowboys putting vids on YT, it will ruin it eventually.
Wrong!!! every second tooth for the same angle . Then switch the angle of grinding plate simmetricaly and sharpen the remain teeth!!! They are then properly cutting: left and right side of cutting way while sawing
Thank you Stanis- this is done by other folk on You Tube but Ive simplified the device to make it easier for people to do themselves. It cost $30 for the diamond disc and two draw slides- the rest was stuff I had laying around
Wrong! If you look closely you will see that every other tooth is canted in the opposite direction of the tooth prior to it. That means you need to cant your grinder that two different angles for each blade. Your blades may be sharper, but they are nowhere near their original cutting ability.
I know what you mean but I dont use wood blades myself these blades are steel cutting blades and are pitched differently and relieved equal both sides. Thats why I sharpen them- they get hammered and cost $60 each
NO disrespect. But: The manufacturing engineers of all your saw blades would very probably say: 1. The sound keeps going up and down. USE a lavaliere mic! 2. Grinding just the "face" of a saw blade is NOT good enough. "Top" grinding must be done also. In addition, there is one or two other angle(s) on many blade's teeth that must be ground and it is critical. (Your setup has no way to grind these angles). 3. You have NO "lateral" blade stop to insure that each tooth is ground exactly the same. 4. NEVER bump the tooth into the grinding wheel; nor press it into the wheel. 5, IF you do not "clean" the blade thoroughly "before" grinding, all of the above is for naught.
What about cross cut blades with alternate tooth face angles. This is all good for rip blades only in this config.
It really rocks. You confirm that good sense of humor and intelligence always go together. Cogratulations!
My camera does the same on close ups. I put something immediately behind the object so the camera has no choice of focusing. Great video mate!!
Clever, but I would have thought that alternate teeth would or should be sharpened with a bevel to the side, - like: left, then right etc, in a manner similar to that used when sharpening chainsaw chains, but with somewhat less angles, depending on material being cut. For example less angle, or bevel on teeth for ripping wood (cutting along the grain) and more bevel on teeth for cross cutting timber.? 🤔
As a saw doctor there are many things wrong with this video lots of TCT saws have alternate angles on the front of the teeth, and just sharpening the front of the tooth will reduce the kerf also when saws are sharpened professionally the top of the tooth is also ground this is really important when the saw is a triple chip.
I cut sheet steel- my blades get shagged so I sharpen them to save $60 each time- works brilliantly for me- I havnt cut wood in maybe 5 years- I have good blades for that should I ever need them.
Totally agree
Big Hi from Canada. Great simple solution to sharpen your blades. I'm going to do the same. I could hear the gear drive in your grinder screaming. I had the same issue. I loosened the 4 mount bolts on the grinder head, opened the head and relubricated the gears. The Chinese smutz they assemble them is stiff grease and eventually comes off the gears.Looking forward to future project builds.
lol thats why that grinder is being used on the set up- its old and the bearings are noisey
@@t.h.o.r. If you follow his suggestion and open the gearbox and slather onto the gears some grease it will run much quieter.
@@kkarllwt Ity was an old grinder that had dozy bearings - thats why I used it, $15 later, 2 new bearings and grease the gears- all fixed
Hi, what type of blade are you using ? as I’m going to make your jig.. keep up the good work.. 👍🏼
I like the ideas here. Suggestion: set a nut on the trolly, install a stop nut on the bolt, extend a bolt out over the edge, secure a stop, and and adjust the bolt out and in to accommodate the blade diameter. Figure out a tooth stop to assure even sharpening on each tooth. Some saw blades have alternating pitch on the teeth. Will this set-up work on those? Thanks for the ideas.
Looks like you keep the blade 90° (perpendicular) to the table at all times. Aren't those carbide tips set at a compound angle? I know mine are, alternate between each tooth.
I cut metal- the blades are ground square. yes- for wood you would tilt the grinder, do every second tooth- then res the other way and do the alternates
You get that stack of spacers to fall off the retention post in a neat stack like that all in one shot? Nice sharpening set up!
I just came across this by accident. Now I have another project to build. Great design. Kudos from Maritimes Canada
🇨🇦🇮🇹 good day from Caserta Italy from an ex-montrealer I’ll be talking to friends in Fredericton tomorrow!
great idea, I don't use my table saw a lot and have a number of old blades setting in the shelf, I'm only going to need to do this once every 4 or 5 years.
Excellent and easy to set up thanks
Good explanation, very helpful, l will have a crack as there is satisfaction in recycled sharp goods for your own use. I got a price to sharpen at a shop and honestly it not worth it for a “jack of all trades”. Thanks for blade description as there are so so many types.. kind regards..
Hi could you make small video that how to build fittings for grinder and how to make board to hold saw blades(disc)
Great idea i dont have a table saw yet but atleast i can maintain my other saw blades
Simple and effective. 👏👏👏👏
What happens if you sharpen 1 tooth more than others? Is taking the same amount off each tooth critical? Since there is a left/right tooth is there a difference in direction of the sharpening rotating
The reason I sharpen my blades is that I destroy them cutting steel panels. These are metal cutting blades with uniform set. There is no left and right. if you sharpen a wood blade like this you will get a slight 'fluffy' edge to the cut
Thanks for the tip I'll do that tomorrow
Very good video. Thanks
Super and simple great idea
40 years ago I saw a really talented old time carpenter/ exquisite furniture make doing this with a file.
That would have been a none tungsten tooth blade back when they were still a thing. With those saws you could offer up a grinding wheel to the spinning saw to give you a quick sharpen ( that would be dangerous by todays standards tho)
@@darrinpatterson2764 Hand file.
@@tedf2 yes you could use a hand file and that is how is was ment to be done but as a quick and dirty way to get a sharp edge back many wood machinists would use an old bench grinding wheel and offer it up to the front of the blade as it was spinning in the saw table. Took way less time than filling individual teeth 1 at a time
That was a great video I knew there had to be a way to sharpen those blades. I saw where one guy was taking those type saw blades and making knives outta them
Simple... I like it
Good set up
Yes mate great tool I might adapt my tile cutter 👍👍👍👍
Very cool and simple, I'd be Curious to know about balance though, especially after 5 or do sharpening
maintain sobriety at all times when sharpening tools :)
Totally agree
Grat idea but you should make a video of exactly how to make the sharpener. You description was too vague.
Nice work👍👍
I'm going to make one .... thx for taking the trouble
otimo trabalho.
thank you so much thats easy and awesome
I loves your ideas , 👍👏😀👌
How many times can you sharpen a blade ??
dozens of times- you are taking the merest lick off each tooth. Its not perfect- but way better than buying a new blade every few weeks.
Отличная идея спасиба за видио
I make knives from my old blades, sell them, buy new ones with the money! Nothing cuts like a factory new blade.
Excellent. I've watched about 4 of these and they all make awkward mistakes.. IMO ... except yours. This is the jump off point for me. The biggest mistake most make is emulating the Harbor Freight sharpener which pulls the grinder towards the blade teeth.. making the alignment critical (unachievable)!!. Your recognizing that the grinder angle (to the blade) has to be adjustable is right on as well. I'm going to attempt to add a spring-driven 'auto-advance' - that holds a bit of circular pressure on the blade and when you pull the tray back it click advances to the next tooth. that would seem to make it a lot faster.. but still scratchin that out. Thanks again for your contribution. very creative...
"Paoson woodworking" did it best (excellent) with plans if you wish
To save depth time and relocation the screw make a channel slide with a sliding peice inside the channel to at moves forward nad backwards to the depth you need per blade. Use a tightening screw to hold it in place. This is a good idea
Can you try and put that in some form of English that makes more sense?
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
This is great stuff mate, you do what you do very well.Thanks for sharing.
I bought the Harbor Freight one. Works good with some effort
Great video and a simple idea thanks for posting
Thanks for watching!
Nice job!
I think you need to make it very clear in the notes just below the video that this is for sharpening blades used for cutting metal and not wood blades which have different teeth settings
Love it you save me some money thanks
Do u also know that the bits also wear out from the sides and if you sharpen the sides , the kerf is reduced..
teeth - but why would anyone want to reduce the kerf - it's there for reason?!
Thats really good
That's brilliant! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Nice one 🇬🇧
Hello Sir, thanks a lot for your video, I wonder if the diamond blade will also work with a old blade, it does not has tungsten. it s all the same material. Thanks again!
Yes it will work very well. in fact you can just use ordinary grinding or cutting disc on old style blades so long as it is a nice fresh one with good edge. thanks for your question Gerado
it works, but why sharpen a poor quality blade? they go blunt after so little use, it's better to get a tungsten tipped one, even a secondhand one and sharpen it, in my view (assuming you can get one for your saw).
Thanks enjoy your videos
Thankyou Danie- check out my latest vids on making your own outdoor wood cookstove and oven
Hi hope your feeling well after sharpening those tct blades, dont mean to worry you but thats COBALT dust coming off those blades HIGHLY CANCEROUS, here in ireland we have to shp them on a cnc machine totally enclosed and once a year we empty try and dust forms into small tennis balls
are telling me that tugsten carbide turns into cobalt dust when you grind it-? - Thats alchemy!
@@t.h.o.r. What is the composition of carbide?
They consist of hard carbides or carbonitrides of metals from the IV to VI subgroup of the periodic table, held together by binder metals, mostly cobalt and nickel. These cutting materials maintain their hardness at very high process temperatures due to the high melting points of the carbides.
@@alladd2354 do you think moving a diy setup outside and wearing a mask would stop the problem? Or would the dust always be in the yard getting wind swept into our lungs?
I wouldn't use that last blade, it has a broken tooth on it. Oh I just noticed that it was posted in 2019 and it's now March 19, 2020.
Way to go buddy!!!!
Another problem is wobbling of circular saws
Why not make an adjustable sliding stop
easily done - but as the blades I use are always the same ones Ive found that 4 holes gives me the righ setback for each of my blade types- its great I have sharp blades all the time now at no cost!
I like it, going to give your way a go. Thanks
Hello, I have used your method of sharpening but find that the blades are still blunt. Do I sharpen it for too short or could there be another problem?
If you will look closely, you will see that every other tooth is set at an opposing angle, a mirrored angle, if you will... In order to get a sharp blade, every other tooth has to be ground to the original angles on two separate axis'. Look closely at the angles on a new blade. It should be obvious. Then rotate your grinder to accommodate each angle, sharpening every other tooth.
Did that fix the problem for you?
@@TheRainHarvester I am not particularly successful. Perhaps the blades I try to sharpen are of poor quality, jig is not setup correctly or I'm sharpening for too short periods. In the meanwhile, I have moved on to buying Freud blades. Although expensive here in South Africa it lasts and is worth sending away to be sharpened professionally.
thank you
Carrying a wheelbarrow on a bike, impressive problem solving!
Thats what this channels about!
Brilliant!
SURE HOPE YOU DIDN'T CHIP THE CARBIDE BY THROWING THEM INTO A PILE AGAINST EACH OTHER
5:4 The result is there to see
I have a TCT circular saw blade, but some of the tips have been chipped off. Is the blade salvageable?
If I lose more than 4 I throw them away. they still cut but they give a messy cut
Good video and gives me some good ideas to improve my setup. However, whenever grinding carbide you have to use breathing protection (eg a respirator) - what you did is very bad for your health and by not wearing a mask on your youtube video you endanger others watching who will mimic you. I'd strongly recommend eye protection as well. Whenever I've had my blades sharpened professionally they come back ground on the face tooth edge, but also top-ground, and depending on the saw blade, some other funky angles. Be good if you could cater for that with your setup. I like your simple stopper idea but to make it faster and tool-less, could you sink a few holes in the base and use a dowel peg to save time? Or is a something tool-less not solid enough for the stop and might allow the angle grinder blade into the saw throat?
So today I built one based on this design with some modifications. For the stop I just drove a section of threaded rod through a block. Cut a notch at the end of the threaded rod to make it a flat head screw. So to adjust the stop you just turn the screw. Everything is working perfectly except the abrasive disc/diamond wheel I got destroys the carbide teeth. Back to the internet search.
@@davidjmurphy Did you find a particular diamond wheel that is suitable? I have one that is kinda rough, and I was thinking there had to be a better one.
@@TheRainHarvester I gave up on it. Seemed like I was chipping the teeth and creating a dangerous hazard, like they might fly off during use. I searched and found a high tech sharpening service I might ship them to.
@@davidjmurphy Thanks! Did you actually try another diamond wheel?
@@TheRainHarvester no, I had trouble finding one that was fine grain and not a super coarse thing.
I saw an automated & bigger version of this in a 1980s tv series...
Who throws a carbide toothed blade on a carbide toothed blade?
I have steel blades to sharpen (not carbide.)
works the same- just use a 3mm cutting abrasive wheel instead of diamond
Fantastic vid. Cheers man
You should treat your blades with more care. Don't throw them on the bench tips are easy to chip. OK if you live 100 miles out in the bush
Bloody awesome, great timing with the viruses..
Hopefully after throwing the blades around at the start, a disbonded or chipped tooth doesn't get you in the eye when you use the blades.....
Good point!- I don't always hurl my blades across the workshop- But when I do its for you.
Nice one Stewy, Stewy nice one!
Brilliant idea
because I cut steel poly panel with my saws and aluminum extrusions Ive been going througha blade per week- Not anymore! Ive saved buying 3 new blades since I made the vid. Its not quite as nice as a brand new blade - but close. :)
An excellent video for content but the sound quality was poor at times as though you were facing away from the mic, or your power tools were closer to it than you. I don’t normally mention things like that, but it felt like I was missing a lot of interesting stuff.
Great idea. Can we have the specs please?
the specs?.....you want me to come and measure up your blades and leave you with a set of measurements for a machine that will sharpen them? This channel provides inspiration- not a detailed design service.
Thank you for your inspiration.
@@chriscotterill5557 thats the spirit!just have a close look at what ive done- ive left room for improvements- also read what otherpeople have suggested here- good luck- im saving hundreds of dollars now. i have not bought a blade since I made this. And I cut steel and alloy so its hard on blades
i have over 30 dull blades lol
Looove the setup, and it should work reasonably well for all but my most expensive TS and CS blades. It will certainly save $$ for the routine sharpening of the basic blades. Many of those other blades for me, however are triple chip and this jig will not accommodate them.
Not to be a butthead, but the early part of your video where you tossed blades on top of each other made me cringe. The carbide teeth, while hard, are also a brittle compound and prone to cracking when impacted upon other hard surfaces. Smacking carbide teeth against each other is guaranteed to damage them over time. I had several teeth come flying at me from the tablesaw after one of my carpenters hit a nail and didn't inspect the blade after. Several teeth were cracked and three more actually came off the blade. If not for my safety glasses, I would lost my left eye.
OAndrew Bieger
I agree, lost all respect for this video right from that beginning, killed the sound and fast forwarded it through the main parts. Too many cowboys putting vids on YT, it will ruin it eventually.
Great idea. I'm going to give it a try
Have probably 50 blades
First thing you do.... is put on leather gloves.
Mantap
Fuck off freak boy
Wrong!!! every second tooth for the same angle . Then switch the angle of grinding plate simmetricaly and sharpen the remain teeth!!! They are then properly cutting: left and right side of cutting way while sawing
Aaah well that is because you are not paying attention. These blades are for cutting metal- thats why I sharpen my own. and dont get you to do it!
Safety second
Casted some 40 Cal. Bullets with old carbide saw tooth's embedded in the bullet tips...
This saw blade will end up out of balance
My supervisor sharpen my metal cutting coldsaw with bench grinder 5 mins DONT buy or build anything. Don’t belivie me bet me
please friend make avideo on how to make this step by step thank u may god bless
Hi Ricky- I wont make another - but I will get it on the bench and do a step by step of how I built it.
Thank u sir u r a very smart man may God bless
your smart dude
Thank you Stanis- this is done by other folk on You Tube but Ive simplified the device to make it easier for people to do themselves. It cost $30 for the diamond disc and two draw slides- the rest was stuff I had laying around
@@t.h.o.r. its more than blade sharpening ,you know stuff, thats why your smart, good to know you
This will ruin a crosscut blade as each tooth is pitched opposite
Yes true- but Im not a woodworker I cut steel with my saws and it ruins a blade in two days- this is a great way for ME to save money
Wrong! If you look closely you will see that every other tooth is canted in the opposite direction of the tooth prior to it. That means you need to cant your grinder that two different angles for each blade. Your blades may be sharper, but they are nowhere near their original cutting ability.
I know what you mean but I dont use wood blades myself these blades are steel cutting blades and are pitched differently and relieved equal both sides. Thats why I sharpen them- they get hammered and cost $60 each
Ok
Not nearly accurate enough for me
Doll blahhhhyed!:)
😄😉😃Happy new Year matee
Cracked tooth, cracked tooth cracked tooth, cracked tooth...dude stop chucking carbide against steel.
NO disrespect. But:
The manufacturing engineers of all your saw blades would very probably say:
1. The sound keeps going up and down. USE a lavaliere mic!
2. Grinding just the "face" of a saw blade is NOT good enough. "Top" grinding must be done also. In addition, there is one or two other angle(s) on many blade's teeth that must be ground and it is critical. (Your setup has no way to grind these angles).
3. You have NO "lateral" blade stop to insure that each tooth is ground exactly the same.
4. NEVER bump the tooth into the grinding wheel; nor press it into the wheel.
5, IF you do not "clean" the blade thoroughly "before" grinding, all of the above is for naught.
Will his job get a wore out garbage blade to cut decent? If your imagined standards aren't met what will be the worst outcome?
What a good way to clean blades? I used laundry soap and it seemed to help.
hahahaha no blade kwa kweli
OK WORD OF ADVICE.....FOR GUYS WHO BUILD STUFF dont talk during ur videos.....we know what were watching thank u
some do- some dont- Im here for everyone😉
5:17
C'mon! Get the fecking camera in focus! I saw one vid where the disk was chipping the teeth not grinding it cleanly...
I’m a saw doctor that is someone who sharpens blades everyday and u think there sorry mate there not 🤦♂️
Time to tickle some blade 🤺
What about the top, the sides, the other angles?
There's a lot to a circular saw blade!