Coming from the US, the thought of imbedding a device box in a concrete wall would not have occurred to me but you have shown an elegant way of doing so! Bravo
@@jayjohal6892 depends upon the size of the oval trunking you're using / capping. I tend to mark the width and then cut to the outside of the line, this allows a little wriggle room. Let me know how you get on.... Ps I hope you're using a qualified sparky for the wiring part? 😉
@@jayjohal6892 you don't actually need to use anything, you could just clip the cable to the wall and plaster over it, but in my view, it's not good practice. I use oval trunking because it protects the cable from the plaster, and should the cable ever need replacement, it makes it a lot easier in the future. Metal also rusts, so in years to come, using band straps could blend through. Those sparkies could also be being over zelus with the fire regs.
perhaps it's just me, but if I have a double socket next to a single... be it phone / network etc / fused spur etc., then personally I prefer a gap between them... especially if the faceplates are different types.
@@mac_uk5464 most of today's combi drills/impact drivers will drive straight through metal trunking anyway, and it not being earthed makes it even more dangerous.
There are tungsten drill bits with square cutters you could get for doing this job, not sure how good they were, I think you drilled a hole with the core drill then used the square cutter on hammer only to finish the corners, doing this twice for double sockets. This would only be good for new work, not chaising in cables. That grinder attachment is really good, doing this without one would be very messy, having to stop to wait for the dust to settle. Good video.
Thanks Dogbreath. The box cutters you're talking about are only any good on thermalite block. They won't do concrete, I used to have one but never really used it, just extra weight in the van so got rid of it.
This was great. I have a complete refurb coming up and you convinced me to get the proper chasing tools for cement. I have seen a twin disc attachment for a grinder which will save work. Surprised people still have phone sockets these days and not ethernet socket. Why run two chases? is it against code to run power and telephone/network cable in the same chase? (I appreciate noise/hum interference over a longer run may be an issue for untwisted cables). Finally, is it code for channels to be either horizontal only or vertical only now cable detectors are so cheaply available? Subscribed 👍 Thanks for the tips
Thank you, glad I could help. Depending on where you live.. In the UK, TV, phone etc cables have to be a minimum 50mm from electrical cable, for the reason you stated. Electrical cable must run vertical/horizontal to the accessory(s). Diagonal is not acceptable, the regulation was brought in after an MPs daughter was killed. Also so you're aware, (I assume that by a refurb you're having a rewire)? This work (along with most electrical work), is notifiable to building regulations, and therefore requires a test certificate. Most electricians will not sign off work they themselves have not completed. Good luck with it, I'd love to hear how you get on with it. 💪🤘
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade You're a star and the quick reply was much appreciated. Thanks for the confirmation on routing and need for separate channels for electrics. Even though I'm abroad (expat) and the local electrical work is just below clown level compared to UK, I shall be working to code (UK where possible) and will have the plans and a test certificate signed off. This is for multiple reasons including legal, insurance liability etc as the unit is a condominium. I will leave the finishing to the locals as they are cheap as chips but I don't trust them to work to plans for the rewire of power, lights, ethernet, security etc. It'll be interesting as I left/sold all my tools back in the UK!
@@jayjohal6892 no, it should be at least 50mm away. I would use 16mm oval for that, whereas 20mm for the twin and earth ring cabling. You're obviously mounting your TV on the wall then? 😉
Coming from the US, the thought of imbedding a device box in a concrete wall would not have occurred to me but you have shown an elegant way of doing so! Bravo
Thank you for the kind comment. I assume you're used to timber frames and dry line boxes?
Hi, the spacer connectors link doesn’t go to a website, what size are they? Is it 15mm? Or 35mm?
For longer length conduits or wiring, how would you fix this in place to the back of the chase?
How wide should chasing be for 2 twin & earth cables adjacent to each other??
Sorry I missed this question, but I think I answered it below 👍How did the tv wall install go?
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade I think i might have drilled thru the chimney flue but i'm not sure! Was doing the 1st fix today
How did you fix the trunking to the wall??
I held it in place with a nail each side, only need enough to hold it in place until the plaster dries.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade How wide in mm should i make my wall chase?? i have two sockets cables going up the wall??
@@jayjohal6892 depends upon the size of the oval trunking you're using / capping.
I tend to mark the width and then cut to the outside of the line, this allows a little wriggle room.
Let me know how you get on.... Ps I hope you're using a qualified sparky for the wiring part? 😉
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade i've seen sparks use the banding to fix the oval to the wall??
@@jayjohal6892 you don't actually need to use anything, you could just clip the cable to the wall and plaster over it, but in my view, it's not good practice. I use oval trunking because it protects the cable from the plaster, and should the cable ever need replacement, it makes it a lot easier in the future. Metal also rusts, so in years to come, using band straps could blend through.
Those sparkies could also be being over zelus with the fire regs.
perhaps it's just me, but if I have a double socket next to a single... be it phone / network etc / fused spur etc., then personally I prefer a gap between them... especially if the faceplates are different types.
I get that, however in this case (which isn't obvious by the video), the install is in the under stairs cupboard. So it is never seen.
Was a sparks mate decades ago, do they use plastic trunking now, was metal shieving onks ago?.
It's all plastic now as far as I'm aware. Except for galvanized conduit.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade Was told yonks ago, the metal was to protect the cables from DIY's nails & drills, maybe .Gov aproves the Darwin awards?.
@@mac_uk5464 most of today's combi drills/impact drivers will drive straight through metal trunking anyway, and it not being earthed makes it even more dangerous.
There are tungsten drill bits with square cutters you could get for doing this job, not sure how good they were, I think you drilled a hole with the core drill then used the square cutter on hammer only to finish the corners, doing this twice for double sockets. This would only be good for new work, not chaising in cables. That grinder attachment is really good, doing this without one would be very messy, having to stop to wait for the dust to settle. Good video.
Thanks Dogbreath. The box cutters you're talking about are only any good on thermalite block. They won't do concrete, I used to have one but never really used it, just extra weight in the van so got rid of it.
This was great. I have a complete refurb coming up and you convinced me to get the proper chasing tools for cement. I have seen a twin disc attachment for a grinder which will save work. Surprised people still have phone sockets these days and not ethernet socket. Why run two chases? is it against code to run power and telephone/network cable in the same chase? (I appreciate noise/hum interference over a longer run may be an issue for untwisted cables). Finally, is it code for channels to be either horizontal only or vertical only now cable detectors are so cheaply available? Subscribed 👍 Thanks for the tips
Thank you, glad I could help.
Depending on where you live.. In the UK, TV, phone etc cables have to be a minimum 50mm from electrical cable, for the reason you stated.
Electrical cable must run vertical/horizontal to the accessory(s). Diagonal is not acceptable, the regulation was brought in after an MPs daughter was killed.
Also so you're aware, (I assume that by a refurb you're having a rewire)? This work (along with most electrical work), is notifiable to building regulations, and therefore requires a test certificate. Most electricians will not sign off work they themselves have not completed.
Good luck with it, I'd love to hear how you get on with it. 💪🤘
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade You're a star and the quick reply was much appreciated. Thanks for the confirmation on routing and need for separate channels for electrics. Even though I'm abroad (expat) and the local electrical work is just below clown level compared to UK, I shall be working to code (UK where possible) and will have the plans and a test certificate signed off. This is for multiple reasons including legal, insurance liability etc as the unit is a condominium. I will leave the finishing to the locals as they are cheap as chips but I don't trust them to work to plans for the rewire of power, lights, ethernet, security etc. It'll be interesting as I left/sold all my tools back in the UK!
@@carlgrainger2669 I'm sure you're sparks won't be any worse than some of the work I've seen over here! Lol.
Where is the oval trunking from??
If you're in the UK, Screwfix sell it amongst other electrical wholesalers
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade Can you put coax cable in the same chase as mains t&e??
@@jayjohal6892 no, it should be at least 50mm away. I would use 16mm oval for that, whereas 20mm for the twin and earth ring cabling.
You're obviously mounting your TV on the wall then? 😉
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade yh thats correct! and a data point! Does the data cable have to be separate as well?? 3 separate chases?? Please say no! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
@@jayjohal6892 no! Lol
The data cable is fine to run with the coax, but try and use a screened cable if possible, just in case of any interference.
Pretty rough lol.
The finish came out alright even if was rough.