Wow, after watching all of your newer videos and coming back and watching this one, I can say you’ve come a long way man in the quality of your videos!
That vid brought a tear to my eyes..... my first trimmer was a makita, it was stolen on a job and I have gone through three more, none as simple and comfy as that one.
That's what I thought. Thanks for making that clear. That feature and the use of a trim bit on the opposite side of the table is what makes this unit so good.
This is an excellent idea. I think that the reason for the edge banding sometimes not to be perfectly flashed could be that, if you have banding on both (opposite) sides of the board at the same time, the unrouted banding that is away from the router will lift the board causing the side at the router to be slanted downwards.and the edge away from the cutter. Once both sides are trimmed, a second pass should correct the problem. Thanks for sharing John.
OwLoLz I believe what he means is..when you put an edge on one edge of the board, the flash overhangs the top and bottom of that edge. Perhaps a small groove the flash could :"ride in" would eliminate the problem. Lots cheaper then the $50,000 edgebander I had in my shop :) .....
Tom Wags Or just put your panel on top of a secondary flat surface that would run on top of the table, almost like a sled, then the edges would hange over those and not cause it to be unlevel while going through the cutting head.
Just a simple watch of the video will show that the white platform does not reach all the way to the fence. This leaves a hollow trench that the bottom overhang will ride through, without touching anything.
John this is a brilliant idea and I have started making one. I have a spare router that I am going to set up semi-permanently. The only problem is that I cannot source a long enough ¼" flush trim cutter, the longest (in the UK) seem to be about 32mm. So I am trying it without the second fence and using the pivoting part as the fence. I have put an extra lock / clamp on it and it seems to work ok. Thanks for the realistic videos. Geoff
Thanks. I often take some details for granted - I should have mentioned it in the video. The table is about 3/4" from the fence to allow for the uncut edge of the panel, so that the panel can sit flat on the table. The gap between the fence and table needs to be wider than the thickest edge banding that will be trimmed.
For the sake of simplicity, I went with the cam. The cam pre-lifts the arm to the approximate height, so that when the work is pushed through, it doesn't take much effort to push it. This also reduces wear at the pivot point, as the range of motion is reduced. A more elaborate machine could have a larger roller in place of the cam, in the place you suggest - this would make it fully self adjusting.
Very slick! I''m going to have to try and make one of these. The only thing I might change is the cam. Personally, I find a round disk with an off centre hole easier to make and the pressure is in a straight line between the bolt and the support so it is less likely to slip. Again very well thought out device.
It would be an awkward operation on a router table, especially for larger panels. This is more of a very specific tool that is best suited for edge banding and has the adjustability needed for very close cuts.
Dust collection can add quite a bit of complexity to a project but is certainly worth the effort. For something like this, that mostly spits out chips, I would just clean up afterwards, if it is a small run. Otherwise, a 2-1/2" hose could be attached to collect the chips just above the cutter - this should be very effective.
Thanks! I don't think I can claim "invention" on this - there are probably very similar machines available to do this, but in a large production version, for cabinet making shops.
Install the router fixed at the same height as the white board and use a router bit without bearing. It can also be done on any sharper or router table. Or simply just buy a lipping planer. Lamello, Hofmann or Virutex.
To do this on a regular router table or a horizontal router table, you'd need a false fence w/ a gap. See my comment below. That wouldn't be hard to make or put on when you need it. However, this setup he has here is pretty easy to make & doesn't take up much room. He says he does a lot of this type of work so it's worth making one.
I swear I didn't take it! ;-) I generally don't have much to complain about, where Makita tools are concerned. I've used and owned many of them, as well as other well known brands. I've found they have the best balance between affordability, reliability, longevity and usability of the mid-priced tools.
Hi...its SAM from Kuwait .. its grate idea but instead of using MDF use plastic transparent and instead of nail use scroll with nut and shave it ! good luck
Thanks for the idea. I would like to do similar, but I've just thought of a design change, and was wondering what your thoughts are. Instead of having the router bit riding on top of the wood, could you instead have it below. You could then use a standard straight-bit, rather than a flush trim bit (which will only ever be as accurate as the bearing is to the blade). The platform your workpiece rests on would be adjustable with screws so you can make sure it's perfectly aligned to the router bit. With the router underneath, the thickness of the workpiece you are cutting doesn't matter.
Actually, just thinking, probably easier to adjust the router height rather than making the platform adjustable. But still, I would be interested in your thoughts on having the router underneath the workpiece.
why do you need a cam? why dont you just free play it since the router bit bearing will automatically follow the thickness of the ply. great idea though
That's awesome! I've never seen anything like it before. Very original. You didn't say anything about it, and the view of it isn't great, but it seems there's a gap w/ a gutter between the table edge and the fence. That's a pretty critical design feature for this tool. Can you elaborate on that a bit? Again, great idea!
Great demonstration but this is basically a horizontal router table. With all due respect, couldn't you accomplish the same thing if you used an ordinary router table?
Rather than the manually adjusted height cam, could the cam be moved to just before the router cutting bit so that as the work was introduced to the router bit the adjustment cam lifted the cutter to the correct height?
Very clever idea!! I've learned a lot from your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Are you happy with that router? I'm fixing to buy 2 new routers, a small laminate router like the one you have in the video, and a bigger 1/2" router.. can't afford to go crasy with it so .. :) no festool for me.. hehehe
Sorry but I do not see the advantage of this over the. router bit in a router table. The purpose of the bearing is to limit the amount the blade removes isn't it?
how do u run the uneven edge banding along the fence on an ordinary router table? You just gonna use no fence and run it on its end? kinda hard to balance that way... I NEED A ROUTER TABLE!
Hi John, was just wondering why you would need the cam, as having the bearing on the flush bit would in essence act as a self adjusting cam at the same time.
I thought so too. The spring pulls the router down and the bearing ensures the cutting distance. The cam actually reduces the adaptability of the system to any size of plywood.
The cam relieves stress from the router bit. I imagine that whole setup with the plywood, the mashine itself plus the spring will put quite a bit of shearing forces to the bit. I can't imagine that would be desirable... or healthy... or sane. Using the cam to preset the thickness should help there.
Lucio Carrozzo Imagine if there wasn't a cam...as the work piece entered it would bang into the bearing. the cam sets the bearing height so it's just below the work piece surface allowing the bearing to ride up on it easily. the cam should not be making contact during the cutting operation.
+Lucio Carrozzo Guys if you wants to learn beginner to advance level woodworking my recommendation is *TopFineWoodworking .Com* the best website to learn woodworking...................
Hey john I built one of these pretty much the same as yours. I'm having trouble getting it to cut close enough without taking of the plywood veneer. Any tips?
Wow, after watching all of your newer videos and coming back and watching this one, I can say you’ve come a long way man in the quality of your videos!
That vid brought a tear to my eyes..... my first trimmer was a makita, it was stolen on a job and I have gone through three more, none as simple and comfy as that one.
That's what I thought. Thanks for making that clear. That feature and the use of a trim bit on the opposite side of the table is what makes this unit so good.
Just made this trimmer in a couple hours. Works great! Thank you for sharing!
This is an excellent idea. I think that the reason for the edge banding sometimes not to be perfectly flashed could be that, if you have banding on both (opposite) sides of the board at the same time, the unrouted banding that is away from the router will lift the board causing the side at the router to be slanted downwards.and the edge away from the cutter. Once both sides are trimmed, a second pass should correct the problem. Thanks for sharing John.
Wouldn't it be easier to edge band one side, trim if off, then to edge the other side.
OwLoLz
I believe what he means is..when you put an edge on one edge of the board, the flash overhangs the top and bottom of that edge. Perhaps a small groove the flash could :"ride in" would eliminate the problem. Lots cheaper then the $50,000 edgebander I had in my shop :) .....
Tom Wags
Or just put your panel on top of a secondary flat surface that would run on top of the table, almost like a sled, then the edges would hange over those and not cause it to be unlevel while going through the cutting head.
Tom Wags you mean like the one in this video?
Just a simple watch of the video will show that the white platform does not reach all the way to the fence. This leaves a hollow trench that the bottom overhang will ride through, without touching anything.
Thanks and thanks for watching.
John this is a brilliant idea and I have started making one. I have a spare router that I am going to set up semi-permanently. The only problem is that I cannot source a long enough ¼" flush trim cutter, the longest (in the UK) seem to be about 32mm. So I am trying it without the second fence and using the pivoting part as the fence. I have put an extra lock / clamp on it and it seems to work ok. Thanks for the realistic videos. Geoff
Thanks. I often take some details for granted - I should have mentioned it in the video. The table is about 3/4" from the fence to allow for the uncut edge of the panel, so that the panel can sit flat on the table. The gap between the fence and table needs to be wider than the thickest edge banding that will be trimmed.
For the sake of simplicity, I went with the cam. The cam pre-lifts the arm to the approximate height, so that when the work is pushed through, it doesn't take much effort to push it. This also reduces wear at the pivot point, as the range of motion is reduced.
A more elaborate machine could have a larger roller in place of the cam, in the place you suggest - this would make it fully self adjusting.
Very slick! I''m going to have to try and make one of these. The only thing I might change is the cam. Personally, I find a round disk with an off centre hole easier to make and the pressure is in a straight line between the bolt and the support so it is less likely to slip.
Again very well thought out device.
It would be an awkward operation on a router table, especially for larger panels. This is more of a very specific tool that is best suited for edge banding and has the adjustability needed for very close cuts.
Instablaster...
Great video...Thanks so much....sharing the build details is very kind...Kudos plus!!!
Very clever on leaving that gap between fence and table
Thank You - Makes me think about why I getting poor results from free handing the trimmer.
This is a great system and will make one next time I do a lot .Thanks for sharing
Dust collection can add quite a bit of complexity to a project but is certainly worth the effort. For something like this, that mostly spits out chips, I would just clean up afterwards, if it is a small run. Otherwise, a 2-1/2" hose could be attached to collect the chips just above the cutter - this should be very effective.
Wow!! Great trimmer. It appears to work very well. I need one of those.
very good and clear explanation and demonstration... thanks
Thanks!
I don't think I can claim "invention" on this - there are probably very similar machines available to do this, but in a large production version, for cabinet making shops.
Install the router fixed at the same height as the white board and use a router bit without bearing. It can also be done on any sharper or router table. Or simply just buy a lipping planer. Lamello, Hofmann or Virutex.
I'd love to see u make an adjustable hinge jig that I could take to my job sights.
love ur work
thank you the ideas you come up with stagger my Imagination
To do this on a regular router table or a horizontal router table, you'd need a false fence w/ a gap. See my comment below. That wouldn't be hard to make or put on when you need it. However, this setup he has here is pretty easy to make & doesn't take up much room. He says he does a lot of this type of work so it's worth making one.
Šta ljudi nece sve smisliti . dobra ideja i pomoc pri radu . ...
not seen anything like that before, great idea
this would also work well for rabbets with a rabbeting bit or a slot cutting bits.. excellent..
very nice idea!!! i think i can try this idea on my hybrid pantorouter.thanx for sharing.
Hi John really good idea, I have ordered the same router and will build as per your idea. Thank you
I swear I didn't take it! ;-)
I generally don't have much to complain about, where Makita tools are concerned. I've used and owned many of them, as well as other well known brands. I've found they have the best balance between affordability, reliability, longevity and usability of the mid-priced tools.
Hi...its SAM from Kuwait .. its grate idea but instead of using MDF use plastic transparent and instead of nail use scroll with nut and shave it !
good luck
The spring and gravity. The cam only sets the router close to where it needs to be for the cut.
very good machine
Nice. Great idea John
You should design dust collection into your projects! that would take them to the next level
Thanks!
Great idea
Thanks for the idea. I would like to do similar, but I've just thought of a design change, and was wondering what your thoughts are. Instead of having the router bit riding on top of the wood, could you instead have it below. You could then use a standard straight-bit, rather than a flush trim bit (which will only ever be as accurate as the bearing is to the blade). The platform your workpiece rests on would be adjustable with screws so you can make sure it's perfectly aligned to the router bit. With the router underneath, the thickness of the workpiece you are cutting doesn't matter.
Actually, just thinking, probably easier to adjust the router height rather than making the platform adjustable. But still, I would be interested in your thoughts on having the router underneath the workpiece.
Repair Iphone 6 plus
Very clever jig!
Nice job sir!
nice build
Thank you!
Very ingenious.
why do you need a cam? why dont you just free play it since the router bit bearing will automatically follow the thickness of the ply. great idea though
Awesome tutorial! Thank you very much!
Cool setup.
Nice. I built something like this a few years ago.
Wow, nice jig!
Thanks again!
That's awesome! I've never seen anything like it before. Very original. You didn't say anything about it, and the view of it isn't great, but it seems there's a gap w/ a gutter between the table edge and the fence. That's a pretty critical design feature for this tool. Can you elaborate on that a bit?
Again, great idea!
Really nice
Simply brilliant.
Awesome...I need to build this one..
Good job!
Awesome, you are a genius
Good video editing.
Great demonstration but this is basically a horizontal router table. With all due respect, couldn't you accomplish the same thing if you used an ordinary router table?
Sorry! my ask is about "Making An Edge Banding Trimmer Attachment"
Good work lad.
Rather than the manually adjusted height cam, could the cam be moved to just before the router cutting bit so that as the work was introduced to the router bit the adjustment cam lifted the cutter to the correct height?
Very clever idea!! I've learned a lot from your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Are you happy with that router? I'm fixing to buy 2 new routers, a small laminate router like the one you have in the video, and a bigger 1/2" router.. can't afford to go crasy with it so .. :) no festool for me.. hehehe
Muito engenhoso e bem feito amigo! Parabéns e gostava de saber k material leva e os passos a dar p montar!
Very nice!
Sorry but I do not see the advantage of this over the. router bit in a router table. The purpose of the bearing is to limit the amount the blade removes isn't it?
perfect job
Band-it paintable edging
maybe adding a port for attaching the shop vac.?
So, it is the spring tension that keeps the bearing in contact with the work and not the cam?
great idea!!
do you have video how to make that edge bander trimmer jig?
Good Morning! I not found de dimentions sheet, I only found a 3D model. Can you help me? I lake make one for me...Thanks very much!
Awesome!
how do u run the uneven edge banding along the fence on an ordinary router table? You just gonna use no fence and run it on its end? kinda hard to balance that way... I NEED A ROUTER TABLE!
very good
BTW, liked, favorited, and shared on Facebook.
can you help to advise for router blade , video show how router blade cutting
Yosun
What grade of plywood do you use, that you want to cover up the material you're using?
Очень интересно !
What bits you used?
do you get any chipping with the veneered edgebanding?
nice
Hi John, was just wondering why you would need the cam, as having the bearing on the flush bit would in essence act as a self adjusting cam at the same time.
I thought so too. The spring pulls the router down and the bearing ensures the cutting distance. The cam actually reduces the adaptability of the system to any size of plywood.
That question was asked before and the answer is in the other comments. Basically, it pre-sets the height.
The cam relieves stress from the router bit. I imagine that whole setup with the plywood, the mashine itself plus the spring will put quite a bit of shearing forces to the bit. I can't imagine that would be desirable... or healthy... or sane. Using the cam to preset the thickness should help there.
Lucio Carrozzo Imagine if there wasn't a cam...as the work piece entered it would bang into the bearing. the cam sets the bearing height so it's just below the work piece surface allowing the bearing to ride up on it easily. the cam should not be making contact during the cutting operation.
+Lucio Carrozzo Guys if you wants to learn beginner to advance level woodworking my recommendation is *TopFineWoodworking .Com* the best website to learn woodworking...................
Hey john I built one of these pretty much the same as yours. I'm having trouble getting it to cut close enough without taking of the plywood veneer. Any tips?
Apply tape on the veneer side that way will keep the cutter .010mm above veneer and with light sand should make it perfect
Wow thank you that's a great tip!! Thank you
you welcome
The router is supposed to be tilted up at the back slightly - that's the 2 degrees thing in the plans and article.
Yes I have the 2 degree bevel you are talking about I got it to work a long time ago thanks for your guys help
fymm
Hi guys I live in Philadelphia Pa and have lots of PVC Edgebanding rolls i want to sell if anyone interested, send me a message.
inspirasi i..
wawan Supriyady.
This trimmer is great, thank you for the video, I have a few questions for you, may I have an email please ...thank you for your time
Or you could use a plane and sandpaper.
Пустозвон.
;
سخيف
Thanks!