RS 660 | How to Setup Your Suspension
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2023
- How to setup the suspension on the Aprilia RS 660. How to use Preload and Rebound adjustments, to set Static Sag and Riders Sag while finding what the Bottom Out is.
Detailed written instructions on how to setup your suspension, pinned on the comments below.
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Setting Front Suspension
Finding Bottom Out
1) Extend the forks either by lifting the bike by the lower triple clamp with a front stand, or by raising the front of the bike on the side stand.
2) Measure the distance from the joint of the fork tube and the dust seal to the axle casting, to find the fully extended fork distance.
3) Find the fork stroke in the owner’s manual. The RS660 fork stroke is 120mm.
4) Subtract the fork stroke distance from the extended fork distance.
5) Take the difference between the two and measure it up from the axle casting. That is your “Bottom Out”.
Example: If extended fork distance is 140mm and fork stroke is 120mm then,
Extended Fork Distance - Fork Stroke = Bottom Out, 140 - 120 = 20mm
The bottom out is 20mm up from the axle casting.
Note 1: Use a zip tie on the fork to have a reference point for the travel of the suspension. Make sure you have at least 10-15mm distance from bottom out. If you are below 10mm you are in the caution zone and you are running the risk of bottoming out and losing your front traction. If maximum travel distance cannot be adjusted to proper numbers using Preload and/or Compression, then you need stiffer springs/higher spring rate.
Note 2: Adding or removing preload affects the maximum extended fork distance. Every time preload is changed, the bottom out must be recalculated.
Note 3: Adding preload does not make the springs stiffer. It alters the range of the travel of the spring, by changing the amount of force needed to fully compress the spring.
Setting Static Sag
1) Once you have measured the extended fork distance, have the bike rest upright on the front wheel, either on a front wheel chock or by having someone hold the bike upright from the rear.
2) Compress the front forks smoothly from the handlebars, so the suspension can settle in its resting position. Hold the front brake lever while compressing if no wheel chock is used.
3) Measure the distance from the joint of the fork tube and the dust seal to the axle casting, to find the fork distance on its resting position.
4) Subtract the resting position distance from the extended fork distance. The difference between the two, is your “Static Sag”
Example: If extended fork distance is 140mm and resting position is 115mm then,
Extended Fork Distance - Resting Position = Static Sag, 140 - 115 = 25mm
The Static Sag is 25mm.
Note: Static sag, meaning the suspension is compressed with the bike under its own weight, should be between 15-25mm on cold suspension.
Setting Rider’s Sag
1) Once you have measured the extended fork distance, have the bike rest upright on the front wheel, either on a front wheel chock or by having someone hold the bike upright from the rear.
2) Have the rider sit on the bike and compress the front suspension from the handlebars.
3) Measure the distance from the joint of the fork tube and the dust seal to the axle casting, to find the fork distance on its rider resting position.
4) Subtract the rider resting position distance from the extended fork distance. The difference between the two, is your “Rider’s Sag”
Example: If extended fork distance is 140mm and rider resting position is 105mm then,
Extended Fork Distance - Rider Resting Position = Riders Sag, 140 - 105 = 35mm
Rider’s Sag is 35mm.
Note: Rider’s sag, meaning the suspension is compressed with the rider on the bike, should be between 30-40mm on cold suspension.
Setting Fork Rebound
1) Compress the front suspension from the handlebars while holding the front brake.
2) Release the pressure from the handlebars without pulling, and have the forks return up freely.
3) Look for the fork bounce. If it bounces, add rebound until the bounce is eliminated.
4) If there is no bounce, remove rebound until the bounce returns to find the number of rebound clicks that the bounce is present.
5) Then add rebound until the bounce is eliminated.
Setting Rear Suspension
Setting Static Sag
1) Place the bike on the front wheel chock. If you don’t have a wheel chock have someone hold the bike upright from the front end.
2) Compress the rear shock to settle on its resting position.
3) Find two fixed spots of your preference vertical with each other, one on the swingarm and one on the tail and measure the distance between them. We’ll call that Resting Distance.
4) Have someone lift the tail of the bike until the shock is fully extended and measure the distance of the same two fixed spots. Extended Distance.
5) Subtract the resting distance from the extended distance. The difference is your “Static Sag”
Example: If extended distance is 700mm and resting distance is 690mm then,
Extended Distance - Resting Distance = Static Sag, 700 - 690 = 10mm
Static Sag is 10mm.
Note: Static sag, meaning the suspension is compressed with the bike under its own weight, should be between 5-10mm on cold suspension.
Setting Rider’s Sag
1) Once you have measured the extended distance, have the bike rest upright on the rear wheel, either on a front wheel chock or by having someone hold the bike upright from the front end.
2) Have the rider sit on the bike and compress the shock from the tail to settle.
3) Measure the distance of the same two fixed spots. We’ll call that Rider’s Resting Distance.
4) Subtract the rider’s resting distance from the extended distance. The difference is your “Rider’s Sag”
Example: If extended distance is 700mm and rider’s resting distance is 670mm then,
Extended Distance - Rider’s Resting Distance = Rider’s Sag, 700 - 670 = 30mm
Rider’s Sag is 30mm.
Note: Rider’s sag, meaning the suspension is compressed with the rider on the bike, should be between 25-35mm on cold suspension.
Setting Shock Rebound
1) Compress the rear suspension from the tail of the bike.
2) Release the pressure from the tail, having the tail return up freely.
3) Look for the tail bounce. If it bounces, add rebound until the bounce is eliminated.
4) If there is no bounce, remove rebound until the bounce returns to find the number of rebound clicks that the bounce is present.
5) Then add rebound until the bounce is eliminated.
Thank you for this, getting a brand new 660 in 2 days :)
@@user-bl4cw3hi8d Congrats! ✌️
I don't get it: if I measure the fork extension from fully extended to the casting I get 143mm. The problem is that I get 143 in both settings: full preload and 0 preload. I thought you meant that fork travel changes by adding preload...
@@floridakoi I must have missed your comment. Yes, by changing the preload value the extended fork travel will change too. I’m not sure why yours remain the same. Try pulling the fork down when you lift it, just in case you have fork stiction.
Mate, this is the best Video, explanation i have seen. I have been watching all from Dave Moss, but hes to quick in his explanations. Thank you for taking you time.❤ this is a very important topic.
Dave’s the man but his UA-cam videos are more for general information. For a more in depth explanation he has a subscription based website that gives you access to more info. Knowledge does not come free. My goal for this video was to at least offer the knowledge of the base setup that everyone deserves and should know how to do on their own. Im glad it helped you!! ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGAI have an R7 and appreciate this so much! It's a great explanation of the fundamentals. I had already tweaked my set up for road riding based on my rudimentory understanding. The stock set-up felt awful for me. This will now allow me to recheck my set up and make any further adjustments. Thank you for such a great tutorial 👌🏽
I appreciate that! Thats the good thing about suspension setup. It’s universal no matter what bike you ride. ✌️
Agreed! Was just about to comment this myself. All the adjustments and methods precisely explained in one video. Thank you!
Best video you can possibly find . Way better than adobo moto's video . Thanks for the detailed pointing out explanation . This will help a lot
Thank you I appreciate that! ✌️
Thank you bro, you kept your promise…this is exactly what I was looking for. This is the only video available on youtube that describes in details how to adjust the RS 660 suspension.
Thank you so much….🌹🌹
I appreciate that brother! There are a lot of generic suspension setup videos online but they always leave you with incomplete information. I tried to “dumbify” it as much as possible but I didn’t want the video to run for an hour. So I didn’t go extremely deep into details, but I covered enough to not leave the viewer with incomplete info.
@@ALFAVITAGA it was a great video and you covered enough.
Thanks again….🙏
I've needed to do this since I got my bike, plan to this weekend now, thanks for the info and tutorial!
Literally the first thing we need to do when we buy a bike. You’ll love the riding difference. ✌️
Thanks for the video, I never understood this before, and you explained it perfectly. God bless you.
I’m very glad it helped. Thank you!
This is the best video in the topic I ever seen mate! I kinda missing the compression settings, but you covered the most important things! Thanks!🙌🏻
Thank you brother! It would be nice if the RS660 had compression settings. By the way you have a very cool channel 👌🔥
Great stuff Mike. I always come back to your channel with regards to the RS 660.
I appreciate that brother! ✌️
Gotta thank you for this in depth video
Thank you I appreciate it! ✌️
Bro, another informative. Excellent video you blow me away, bro I’m beside myself. I almost wish I can ship my bike to you fly up there to California and have my bike set up by you, lol anyway, brother thanks again for the video I stayed till the very end, and I can’t believe you added all the Information in writing as well. No other Influencer matches you standalone. Thanks brother it really shows that you care about us out here. Ride safe. Be smart and stay alert. Looking forward to the next video.
Oh and by the way I get my 2022 RS660 back tonight after six months of waiting waiting on parts.
And it’s very nice to see that you are still working on an RS 660.
Thank you brother I appreciate it! Most people tend to charge for the knowledge they have acquired over time. While Im not against that, I also believe that having the suspension properly set is crucial to your safety. When safety is involved I believe that information should be disseminated free of charge. And thats my goal. I’m glad you enjoyed it ✌️
Very informative! Thanks for sharing 🤙🏼
Thank you ✌️
Excellent video, thank you very much for the explanation and some starting points!
My pleasure! ✌️
Suspension can be confusing this was very well explained and demonstrated👍👍👍 great video
Thank you I appreciate that! ✌️
Fantastic Video Exact Details Perfect.
Thank you! ✌️
Super helpful, thanks a lot bro, great work! Cheers!
Thank you I appreciate that! ✌️
Hi. That's an awesome video. Thanks for making it. Regards.
Thank you! ✌️
thanks for the informative video
You are very welcome! ✌️
Spot on.....needs more SUBS ......👍👍👍
I appreciate that my friend ✌️
Nice video! Thanks 👍🏻
Thank you! ✌️
Great video, thank you very mcuh
You are very welcome! ✌️
OK, I've watched it (will be using the play again button!) But, the F/R wheels need proper orientation (gross adjustment) i.e. keep the rear wheel even or slightly lower to keep the Front from taking all of the braking load...Hopefully, between the manual, your perfectly executed video & Dave Moss- ill gitR' figured out! That was a huge task-well appreciated by all of us.
Thank you I appreciate it! ✌️
Thanks for the info 🤩
💯👌✌️
Great video 😊
Thank you! ✌️
Nice video, thanks a lot for this advice ;-)
✌️🙏
Top video!
Thank you!
Good info, thanks. I should check my tuono factory(18, so non electric) settings too even though it should be Ok from factory for 75kg rider. On track i might be near bottom out on heavy braking.
Definitely give it a check. 90% of the time suspension is off spec from factory.
Top effort Mike , great video explained well.
Funny how the manual says no preload for sport riding, no wonder people get confused
Thank you brother! Manual also tells you to measure the distance of the rear shock spring to determine the level of preload and the number it gives you for sport riding eliminates static sag completely. The manual recommending amount of preload is equal to the sticker on the bike with the suggested tire pressures. In other words, useless.
@@ALFAVITAGAHahaha that's funny. Most manuals recommend 36 PSI front and 42 PSI back for 120/70 and 180/55 respectively - I imagine that the RS660 is quite similar to the Yamaha R7.
I was always told to go with manufacturer's recommendations for road riding and obviously adjust for track. I've seen many track day riders suggesting 30 to 32 front and around 28 to 30 back (for track). What are your thoughts on appropriate pressure ranges for road and track?
@@NakedBikeJase Manufacturer’s recommendations for tire pressure is useless. No one can tell you what tire pressure you need but you. But you need some info to be able to determine your optimal tire pressure. How much psi to you elevate when your tires are warm? How much do you push your bike? What brand tires do you run? And a lot more. Some tire brands have stiffer carcass than others. Pirelli has softer front carcass than Dunlop for instance. That means that you may need less psi on a Dunlop compared to Pirelli. It also depends on how hard you will be braking and accelerating. For me, when I do canyon rides, I elevate 4-5 psi on warm. Therefore I start at 28psi cold front and back and that brings me to 32-33psi warm. When I start pushing lean angles around 55 degrees with hard braking, I feel that I need to drop a psi or two as my front starts getting a bit unstable. So it all depends on what your warm psi is. For me 30-32psi warm does the job. 28psi even for canyons and a bit lower for the track.
@@ALFAVITAGA Thanks for sharing 👍🏽
Well done
Thank you! ✌️
Great video man, thanks for making it! just curious what are your measurements? because I set it up for my weight and it's almost exactly the same as your bike in the video haha
Thank you! The rider I used for this setup was around 140-150lbs with gear. That is very light. I am around 190-200lbs with gear and this setup would not work for me.
Highly suggest not recommending the settings in the book with so much conviction. Everyone’s different. Those settings worked wonders for me and I’ve been able to get within 10-12 seconds of the lap record(not super bike/supersport times) on 3 different tracks. It may not be the only thing but still helped me and the 3 guys I frequent the track with..A better comment to make would’ve been, “I hated the sport settings in the book but try it out and see how it works for you, but make sure to set your sag first.” 👍
I’m sorry but I respectfully disagree. I did not “hate” the sport setting. The sport setting was wrong. The recommended preload, eliminated the static sag completely. There can be no set setting or recommendation. Each setting is unique to the rider and riding skill. Out of a 1000 riders maybe the recommended sport setting will work for 2 or 3 riders. But you can’t just start adding preload without knowing where your static sag is. This is like saying that the recommended tire pressure in the book works for you and everyone should try it. On the recommended tire pressure I almost lowsided. I hold my original statement which is to not use the book for setting the suspension. With all due respect. ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA yeah I guess that is pretty odd to have no static sag.. I’m not too familiar with suspension settings recommended by Aprilia for that bike specifically. Now I’m curious lol. All I’m saying is, the majority of street riders and a lot of track day guys are on stock non adjusted suspension and tire pressures and it seems to work fine for them. I don’t advocate for it but that’s the truth. At the end of the day, everything motorcycle related is pretty much guidelines with trial and error cause everyone’s different
@@wattleyracing You are right about that. Everything is trial and error based on individual needs. But just because something is working for someone it doesn’t mean it’s right. If a track day rider is not pushing limits, then it won’t matter much that there is no static sag or tire pressure is too high. But when i was riding with no static sag, my front tire would lift on every exit corner making it impossible to accelerate off the turn. With manufacturer recommended tire pressures I couldn’t trail brake hard past 45 degrees lean without losing traction on my front tire. My tire pressure rises around 5 psi when hot. If a track day rider raises 2 psi when hot it means he is not pushing hard therefore he is not at the limits. So the fact that he is not lifting his front on exit corner or not getting jittery front when trail braking, it doesn’t mean his setting are correct. If he starts pushing limits he might find the hard way why his settings are wrong.
Thanks a lot for the precious informations ! Used it on my Tuono 660, sadly it seems the preload is less permissive, I'm at 10 and half turns on front preload and 35 rider sag ( 95kg with full gear )
Glad it helped! Thank you!
Great video. I'm having a bit difficulty for the bouncy part. I weight 72kg and I would appreciate if I can have the riders weight. I kinda guess that the rider in the video got the same weight as me so I would just follow everything you did and get the job done alone. Again thanks a lot. That video is very well explained.
The rider on the video weighs around 55kg. But even if the riders weight was the same as yours, you wouldn’t be able to just copy the setup. The suspension behavior is different even on the same bike models. Rebound is a little more tricky to set as it’s not only dependent on the bounce but also on the behavior of the bike on the street. But you need a starting point of rebound and that is the point where the bounce disappears.
@ALFAVITAGA Well, I was pretty far from my guess😂. I'll follow the instructions then. Appreciate the reply my man.
@@mahanghorbani523 lol absolutely man ✌️
Awesome content, does this info apply for the tuono 660 factory 2022? Thx :)
This info applies to any bike that has preload and rebound adjustments. So essentially yes, it applies for the Tuono 660 too.
Great video, where did you get the exhaust from.
This specific exhaust was purchased from Moto Club Santa Monica. But depending where you live you can find it in multiple places like AF1 Racing or CBC Motorsports.
What castle nut wrench are you using for rear shock? Looks adjustable.
Yes its adjustable. It comes in handy when I work on different bikes. This is the one: BikeMaster Adjustable Steering Stem Wrench 22-75MM a.co/d/60LlCQR
good morning, do you also have the video of the spark plug change? please
I haven’t made one. But this video will take you the closest to changing the spark plugs. ua-cam.com/video/_mJzAtX87us/v-deo.htmlsi=R3moIvelPy1QWxvr
Is the front stand the: Pitbull Hybrid Headlift Front Stand With Removable Handle? Which pin size are you using? I have another front stand but is touching with the front fearing and I’m not able to use it. I need to buy another one good for the rs660. Thanks
Yes this is the hybrid stand with removable handle. You can lift both from the forks or from the triple. The pin size for the RS660 is #46
Just bought a tuono 660 factory. I’m trying to lower it around 2-3 mm without compromising. It has a sachs progressive shock. Since in my town service has no idea with this type of suspension, I need your help. Can I lower it by changing preload setting? If so how can I? Btw I’m not familiar with full adjustment shocks. Please ignore my ignorance:)
By definition, you can’t lower the bike by adjusting preload. When you remove preload, what happens is the spring travel increases under compression, therefore the bike sags more under its own weight and more when you’re on it. Through that change of height you can set the geometry ratio of front and rear sag. Ideally for street you need a 50/50 sag. For aggressive street riding or track riding you need the front to sag a bit more than the rear. In other words you need the front “softer” and the rear “harder”. Even though stiffness is not affected, I’ll still use the term soft and hard for simplicity. You need to set the front and rear sag based on your weight and riding style. Not based on how low or high you want your seat to sit. Trying to achieve a seat height of your preference through adjusting preload you can upset the geometry of the bike, leading in an unstable riding experience. The short answer is no, you can’t use preload to change the height of the suspension. To lower the height of the forks you need to lift the fork tubes from the triple clamp. You can’t adjust the height of the rear suspension as it does not have a lowering link. I believe there is a product that can lower the rear shock, but I don’t recommend lowering either front or rear suspension. If your height limits you to the point that you can’t ride your bike and you’re only going to do easy street riding, then I can justify lowering it. If not, stick to the stock geometry and adjust preload and rebound based on your weight and riding style. Hope this helps a little. ✌️
Do this for the rsv4
The process is identical with the difference that the RSV4 also has Compression adjustments. And the rebound on the rear shock is adjustable from underneath by hand. I may just make a video going over this.
Hey, i recently purchased an rs660. i have virtually no tools other than a small screwdriver kit. What tools / toolbox would you recommend i purchase?
It’s funny that you’re asking this because at some point I’m thinking of making a video going over tools needed for Aprilias. But until then I’ll tell you this. It depends on the depth of labor that you will go into. I don’t know what your experience in mechanics is. Regardless of experience, at the very least you should be doing your own oil change, chain adjustment, wheel alignment and brake pad change. I’m not a fan of buying individual tools as in the long run you will end up spending a lot more money. Buy tool sets. For hand tools, I’m a big fan of Tekton tools. I use them on all my videos. They have lifetime warranty replacement, plus you can either buy them directly from their website or from Amazon. You will need a set of allen-hex bits from 2mm to 8mm. A set of Torx bits. A couple ratchets. A set of sockets from 4mm to 14mm. You will need some individual large sockets like 28-30-32mm. A torque wrench. An oil filter socket wrench. And a small set of wrenches from 6mm to 14mm. These should get you through the basics but remember that the minute you start going more in depth in maintenance, there will always be a tool that you will need and you won’t have. In that case, the answer to which tools are needed, is all of them.
Need one sine with the tuono 660 factory aince it git different wuspention
The concept on how to adjust suspension is for the most part universal. If I get a Tuono available I will make a video ✌️
Hello, I am 5.6 tall and I have an Aprilia rs660, what could I do to lower the bike for my size?
The RS660 does not have a rear lowering link. But even if it did, at 5.6 I strongly recommend you don’t lower it.
Fuck it ima buy it.
Haha go for it 💪😛
Yeah you shouldnt even have preload maxed to get proper sag, you still need springs.....probably anything over half or 3/4 preload to get sag should go up a spring rate....or up 1 rate in 1 leg to split a half rate...
Good info bro, every rider should be doing this first thing when they get a bike
I would be drilling a hole in that side panel and fitting a grommet to make it look clean and factory for rebound adjuster on the shock...why woukd they bury it like that, damn
Ideally yes. But its that expense that we procrastinate some times and we just substitute it with more preload. Im maxed out on preload on my RSV4 and I still bottom out. Which means I need new springs yesterday. And yet here I am installing loud exhausts lol. 😛
What's the name of the front padded stand and where can I get on thank
Andy
If you are referring to the front wheel chock then this is the link: baxleycompanies.com/products/sport-chock?variant=39329523663022
@@ALFAVITAGA I ment the front paddock stand the one that go's under the triple tree/behind the head lights
Thanks
Andy
@@motomoto3978 Oh ok. Its this one: www.pit-bull.com/aprilia-motorcycles/aprilia-motorcycles/aprilia-rs-660/hybrid-dual-lift-motorcycle-front-stand-f0100-200
How much do you weigh gear on?
190-200lbs with gear. But I did not use my weight for this setup.
Is that stock cowl?
No thats an aftermarket cowl.
If you bottom out your suspension you do not lose traction????
If you bottom out your suspension you have no more damping on the forces applied on the tire. If the spring cannot be compressed anymore, the tire will take that flex and act as a dampening agent. On a straight line during braking, the tire will flex so much that will flatten out, lose its curve and its ability to steer. Therefore you would lose the ability to turn into the corner while trail braking, and you would just go straight and crash if there is no runway. If you bottom out during a turn, the same thing happens resulting in loss of traction and you would lowside.
Just trying to be helpful. Its damping, not dampening. 😊
@@witjas123 👌✌️
That is way to complicated. Use the 10% / 30% rule. 10% static and 30% rider sag
Eg.
Manual states the bike has 200mm of travel.
10% = 20mm
30% = 60mm
Physically measure the total travel of the forks or rear shock. Off that total measurement setup the sag to 20mm static and 60mm rider sag. Done.
This bottom out stuff your talking about is useless. Top professional suspension guys don't even bother with this
You can’t set a percentage of adjustments, as the suspension adjustment is not only depended on the spring travel but also on the weight and riding skill of the rider. The bottom out “stuff” I’m talking about is the end of spring compression. It means there is no more spring travel to compress, therefore turning the spring into a stiff metal pole. Or, bottomed out spring. By the way, top professional suspension guys, set the suspension the exact same way I did. I know that because I learned it from them. But if you want to set your bike at 10/30%, by all means do so. ✌️
Nicely explained!
What is this exhaust ? looks really cool
Any video on this one ?
This is the SC Project CRT. I have a video installing it and videos with flybys, revs and on board sound clips.