I love your videos and I’m impressed that you run a Model A so far from the USA. Also I’m amazed that Warner Brothers hasn’t complained about your intro! All the best from the Alamo A’s San Antonio Model A Ford Club
You have WAY more patience than I have (a prerequisite for machinists, I believe!) I'm always fascinated by the way some things (like a starter motor/Bendix drive combination) remained in use virtually unchanged for so long. I'm enjoying all of these videos because watching you sort out problems with ancient, rusted mechanisms using penetrating oil, brute force and "creative" language is lots of fun (in a "better you than I" sense!)😂 Thanks for this.
Fun video Adrian...it has been a couple of decades since I rebuilt one of these old starter motors...was enjoyable to watch the process...particularly seeing you clean up and reuse parts we used to throw away when replacements were to be found at the rebuilder's shop in nearly every small town here in the 1980s....HaHa
Love that soldering set. As long as you are running 6volts to that starter the orig bendix will be fine. I'm running 6v on an original bendix with no issues. Best Upgrade I did for mine was 2/0 cable for starter terminal and ground. Hope you get your motor back soon!!!!! Oh great choice on music as always.
Your Videos always have impeccable flair and a nice vibe. As a tip for the 4 big flat head screws: Whenever i redo one of the starters or generators at work we insert a metal cylinder that‘s just big enough to slot inbetween the coil carriers/anchors, to prevent the housing from loosing shape due to hammerblows. Then i take a tool that is almost like an oldschool impact gun. You can use a 1/2 inch socket with a fitting big flat head insert on it and strike the other end with a hammer. It will rotate and transfer the impact at the same time, loosening the screw. Sorry for the shitty description, i don‘t know the name for the damn thing. Best of luck with your endeavours, thank you for keeping history on the road, especially in Germany, from a fellow German :)
Great video, I believe the cotton you used is a cotton “binding”. I work in developing bags and we use various binding materials to finish off certain seams that come together. Anyway..
I didn't know that the "Mortadelo y Filemón" comic was known in Germany; now and after a search, I know that there they were called "Clever & Smart". Here I learn about machining stuff... and other arts
Great rebuild Adrian! Everytime I see you use that blow torch with the "flaming leak around the top fitting" it freaks me out like it is going to explode at any moment lol!💥
@@AstraWerke My late father use to say gasoline blow torches went out of fashion in the US circa WWII...too many fires and explosions. Seems your fond of the 30's 40's era, but be careful of that torch IMHO Adrian.
@@AWDJRforUA-cam Most went Kaboom due to neglect. I wouldn't dare fire up a torch with a steel tank bottom - they're almost always rusted through. Also, none of my torches has any old gaskets left in it. I take them apart, punch fresh gaskets and give them a leak-test before putting them in service.
Really enjoy you using the old tools --- not all is forgotten ----- How much clearance should one give the Armature and Field? Thank you for a Starter Video ------ The man in your Video is just North of me aways ----- George Sage ----- Thanks Again --- Rodney
I could be wrong, but I think at 25:20, instead of machining down the armature, the ideal approach is to use an exhaust pipe expander to squeeze the field coils against the case. This issue occurs frequently in generator restorations, and there's some documentation online about using the pipe expander, aka an expanding mandrel, to correct it.
I'll be honest, I had to look up what a pipe expander is - but yes, that would be a slick tool to use here - if there's access to one. I used the rotor to push the armature cores as far out as possible, which left no more than maybe .5mm to be taken off the armature.
@@AstraWerke Yeah, it seems like the approach you took is a valid fallback method. I would just want viewers to be cautious removing material from the armature. You can never get that material back, and if the armature winds up too far from the field coils to generate the torque you need, there's no good fix.
Do you know the right rpm of a 6V starter? my 12V starter hits the fly-teeth way too hard, even though it has gotten 12V stator coils. I have not taken out mine yet, but want to measure its rpm for comparison. It has the aftermarket enclosed bendix drive, but we will try with old one to see if that helps. I replaced the drive because a bolt-head was knocked off, and of course landed at the most impossible place in the housing. Took a camera + 2 hours to get it out.
Difficult to say, as they basically go beserk (5000rpm or so?) without any load and the rpm under engine load is hard to measure. With 6V, the engine does about 120rpm when starting up. When switching to 12V, it is recommended to use a special, reinforced bendix, that's all I know.
You sped thru the important part of how to get the end cover with the brushes on over the communtator. I can seem to get the springs up and out of the way to slide the cover on. How did you do it? I tried slo-mo on your video but couldn’t see it. Thanks, great video!
Thanks again for another nice video! But, as a certified mecanic, i have to tell you, you sadly missnamed the part, you recently restored.😁 In Germany, we don‘t call it „Schub-Schraubtrieb-Starter“. There is no solenoid who pushes the starter-pinion via a lever (fork), upwards into the spiral gear of the shaft. Your Starter-Motor is just called “Schraubtrieb-Starter“. Thanks 😋
nice video . i have 100's of new old [vary old] stock Bendix drive spring bolts and locks that i would like to find i new home for .just the bolts and locks .
wieder eine fantastische arbeit! mich würde interessieren wie viele stunden du dafür am tag investierst. oder auch wie viele tage du für den anlasser gebraucht hast, könntest du sowas bitte mal in deine videos mit einblenden das wäre super. gruss roten...🤩👍👍👍
Immer schwer zu sagen, ich mach ja keinen Acht-Stunden-Tag. Mal hier ein bisschen, mal dort... Den Anlasser hab ich bestimmt vor über einem halben Jahr angefangen, dann in die Ecke gestellt, als die Model-T-Lima ankam, und bis zum Motorschaden mehr oder weniger vergessen. Die Spulen musste ich zu einem Bekannten geben, da lagen sie dann auch erstmal zwei Wochen, bis er die irgendwo dazwischenquetschen konnte usw usw... Ich kann's mal versuchen, aber bis es tatsächlich in einem Video vorkommt, kann dauern - ich hab zurzeit auch nur bereits begonnene Projekte auf der Werkbank.
Bin vor kurzen über den Kanal von Edd China (der lange Lulatsch und Schrauber vorm Herrn aus "Die Gebrauchwagenprofis/Wheeler Dealers) hier bei YT gestolpert. Ich fand's sehr cool. Könnte auch was für dich sein.
@@tarstarkusz No, but I will in a year or two. In the meantime, it's not the end of the world to drill out the handful of stuck screws I might come across.
Should pull brush tru window before removing tru bolts, no need to remove pole shoes unless shorted. Had to quit watching. You’re doing it the hard way.
Well, can't please everybody. Maybe you noticed that the field coil insulation was decomposing, I felt like them shorting to the casing wouldn't help performance, so I removed the pole shoes, but everyone has their way of doing stuff.
@@AstraWerke I have had a auto electric shop for over 30 years in a farming area so I see all kinds of older units. Everyone has there own way, good video.
After fixing the engine, this starter is now installed in my car - working fine up until now :)
I love your videos and I’m impressed that you run a Model A so far from the USA. Also I’m amazed that Warner Brothers hasn’t complained about your intro! All the best from the Alamo A’s San Antonio Model A Ford Club
Thanks. Since it's just a short clip (and pretty intensely modified), I guess it falls below their Radar. Let's not wake sleeping dogs ;)
Excellent Sir! Very enjoyable, wonderful you are going to put that rebuilt starter to the test.
Excellent work and I really like the use of the old tools to repair the old starter. Should be good for another century now.
Excellent work, your Model A is incredibly lucky to have found itself in your hands. Well thought out and beautifully executed!
You have WAY more patience than I have (a prerequisite for machinists, I believe!)
I'm always fascinated by the way some things (like a starter motor/Bendix drive combination) remained in use virtually unchanged for so long.
I'm enjoying all of these videos because watching you sort out problems with ancient, rusted mechanisms using penetrating oil, brute force and "creative" language is lots of fun (in a "better you than I" sense!)😂
Thanks for this.
Thanks for taking the time to film your work. I know how much extra effort it is! Really appreciate it.
Another great video Adrian, Thanks for taking the time to make these for us! Looking forward to seeing the new engine arrive!!!
Fun video Adrian...it has been a couple of decades since I rebuilt one of these old starter motors...was enjoyable to watch the process...particularly seeing you clean up and reuse parts we used to throw away when replacements were to be found at the rebuilder's shop in nearly every small town here in the 1980s....HaHa
Brilliant! Always enjoy your videos Thank you thank you thank you! Can't wait for the next one.
I thing the spare (new) bendix you have could be a very nice gift to someone you don't like :)
Love that soldering set.
As long as you are running 6volts to that starter the orig bendix will be fine. I'm running 6v on an original bendix with no issues. Best Upgrade I did for mine was 2/0 cable for starter terminal and ground.
Hope you get your motor back soon!!!!!
Oh great choice on music as always.
Your Videos always have impeccable flair and a nice vibe.
As a tip for the 4 big flat head screws:
Whenever i redo one of the starters or generators at work we insert a metal cylinder that‘s just big enough to slot inbetween the coil carriers/anchors, to prevent the housing from loosing shape due to hammerblows.
Then i take a tool that is almost like an oldschool impact gun. You can use a 1/2 inch socket with a fitting big flat head insert on it and strike the other end with a hammer. It will rotate and transfer the impact at the same time, loosening the screw. Sorry for the shitty description, i don‘t know the name for the damn thing.
Best of luck with your endeavours, thank you for keeping history on the road, especially in Germany, from a fellow German :)
They call it an impact screwdriver. I'll inherit one in a year or two, until then, I'll just drill out the few I come across :)
Summers coming, got to get that engine back. 👍👍👍
Super Video, hat mich an die Motorkolonne bei Mannesmann in Düsseldorf-Rath erinnert, in den 60er Jahren.
Very informative - and entertaining.
Thanks!
Great video, I believe the cotton you used is a cotton “binding”. I work in developing bags and we use various binding materials to finish off certain seams that come together. Anyway..
Thanks for letting me know - the ever-ongoing fight in the vocabulary war ;)
I didn't know that the "Mortadelo y Filemón" comic was known in Germany; now and after a search, I know that there they were called "Clever & Smart".
Here I learn about machining stuff... and other arts
You do all that in a nice suit. You’re braver than me.
I do wear a labcoat - it just looks similarly tailored to a suit
Great rebuild Adrian! Everytime I see you use that blow torch with the "flaming leak around the top fitting" it freaks me out like it is going to explode at any moment lol!💥
It's no more dangerous than a gas filled one. If a gas canister explodes, guess what'll happen next..
@@AstraWerke It is not gasoline? What is it filled with... kerosene?
@@AWDJRforUA-cam Apologies, by "gas" I meant propane/butane. Mine do operate on regular gasoline.
@@AstraWerke My late father use to say gasoline blow torches went out of fashion in the US circa WWII...too many fires and explosions. Seems your fond of the 30's 40's era, but be careful of that torch IMHO Adrian.
@@AWDJRforUA-cam Most went Kaboom due to neglect. I wouldn't dare fire up a torch with a steel tank bottom - they're almost always rusted through.
Also, none of my torches has any old gaskets left in it. I take them apart, punch fresh gaskets and give them a leak-test before putting them in service.
Really enjoy you using the old tools --- not all is forgotten ----- How much clearance should one give the Armature and Field?
Thank you for a Starter Video ------ The man in your Video is just North of me aways ----- George Sage ----- Thanks Again --- Rodney
The lower the clearance, the higher the efficiency. A few tenths, no more than .5mm is what my gut says
I could be wrong, but I think at 25:20, instead of machining down the armature, the ideal approach is to use an exhaust pipe expander to squeeze the field coils against the case. This issue occurs frequently in generator restorations, and there's some documentation online about using the pipe expander, aka an expanding mandrel, to correct it.
I'll be honest, I had to look up what a pipe expander is - but yes, that would be a slick tool to use here - if there's access to one.
I used the rotor to push the armature cores as far out as possible, which left no more than maybe .5mm to be taken off the armature.
@@AstraWerke Yeah, it seems like the approach you took is a valid fallback method. I would just want viewers to be cautious removing material from the armature. You can never get that material back, and if the armature winds up too far from the field coils to generate the torque you need, there's no good fix.
@@alexiskai Thanks for the heads-up - I would have never even thought about an approach like this!
Do you know the right rpm of a 6V starter? my 12V starter hits the fly-teeth way too hard, even though it has gotten 12V stator coils. I have not taken out mine yet, but want to measure its rpm for comparison. It has the aftermarket enclosed bendix drive, but we will try with old one to see if that helps. I replaced the drive because a bolt-head was knocked off, and of course landed at the most impossible place in the housing. Took a camera + 2 hours to get it out.
Difficult to say, as they basically go beserk (5000rpm or so?) without any load and the rpm under engine load is hard to measure. With 6V, the engine does about 120rpm when starting up.
When switching to 12V, it is recommended to use a special, reinforced bendix, that's all I know.
You sped thru the important part of how to get the end cover with the brushes on over the communtator. I can seem to get the springs up and out of the way to slide the cover on. How did you do it? I tried slo-mo on your video but couldn’t see it. Thanks, great video!
I used a piece of wire bent to a hook to lift up the springs. Then, I inserted the brushes from the top and let the springs seat over them.
@@AstraWerke thank you. I’ll try that.
about 5:15 this is a great choice of music
"Glad Rag Doll" by Gus Arnheim :)
Is there any part of the car you are not able to work on I have seen you have taken on most of the car
The engine, apparently 😅
Thanks again for another nice video!
But, as a certified mecanic, i have to tell you, you sadly missnamed the part, you recently restored.😁
In Germany, we don‘t call it „Schub-Schraubtrieb-Starter“. There is no solenoid who pushes the starter-pinion via a lever (fork), upwards into the spiral gear of the shaft. Your Starter-Motor is just called “Schraubtrieb-Starter“.
Thanks 😋
But does the Schubtrieb have a Schraub?
nice video . i have 100's of new old [vary old] stock Bendix drive spring bolts and locks that i would like to find i new home for .just the bolts and locks .
Maybe not hundreds, but if they have a Ford Logo on it, I might know a guy that'd be interested in a handful or two..
@@AstraWerke none have ford logo . i have about 10 different types ! and yes i have 100's of them
Will the starter turn the same way with reversed polarity?
Yes
俺も同じことやります。動画参考になりました。THANK YOU👍️
wieder eine fantastische arbeit! mich würde interessieren wie viele stunden du dafür am tag investierst. oder auch wie viele tage du für den anlasser gebraucht hast, könntest du sowas bitte mal in deine videos mit einblenden das wäre super. gruss roten...🤩👍👍👍
Immer schwer zu sagen, ich mach ja keinen Acht-Stunden-Tag. Mal hier ein bisschen, mal dort... Den Anlasser hab ich bestimmt vor über einem halben Jahr angefangen, dann in die Ecke gestellt, als die Model-T-Lima ankam, und bis zum Motorschaden mehr oder weniger vergessen. Die Spulen musste ich zu einem Bekannten geben, da lagen sie dann auch erstmal zwei Wochen, bis er die irgendwo dazwischenquetschen konnte usw usw... Ich kann's mal versuchen, aber bis es tatsächlich in einem Video vorkommt, kann dauern - ich hab zurzeit auch nur bereits begonnene Projekte auf der Werkbank.
@@AstraWerke okay vielen dank für deine antwort, und mach weiter so ich feier deine videos. gruss roten...🥳👍👍👍
Muy bueno,pero hoy no tuvimos subtitulos
Bin vor kurzen über den Kanal von Edd China (der lange Lulatsch und Schrauber vorm Herrn aus "Die Gebrauchwagenprofis/Wheeler Dealers) hier bei YT gestolpert. Ich fand's sehr cool. Könnte auch was für dich sein.
That stuff is called seam tape.
You should buy a "Shake and Break" When all else fails to remove a screw. the "Shake and Break" will succeed.
I'm looking forward to inherit one in a few years time - in the mean, I'll just drill them out :)
@@AstraWerke Why? They're dirt cheap.
@@tarstarkusz But then I have two and only need one...
@@AstraWerke OK... I didn't know you already owned one.
@@tarstarkusz No, but I will in a year or two.
In the meantime, it's not the end of the world to drill out the handful of stuck screws I might come across.
Should pull brush tru window before removing tru bolts, no need to remove pole shoes unless shorted. Had to quit watching. You’re doing it the hard way.
Well, can't please everybody.
Maybe you noticed that the field coil insulation was decomposing, I felt like them shorting to the casing wouldn't help performance, so I removed the pole shoes, but everyone has their way of doing stuff.
@@AstraWerke I have had a auto electric shop for over 30 years in a farming area so I see all kinds of older units. Everyone has there own way, good video.