I'm really enjoying this series! Well done and keep it up. It's great to see a challenging restoration like this. If you had pulled the forks apart when you first took out the rebound screw you could probably have knocked the main spring out from the top with a rod or a wooden dowel. Also, I'm absolutely sure that the rebound spring will still be in the top of the forks. It's common for people to not see a stuck rebound spring. If it wasn't there, the forks would be able to drop out of the splined bearing by about 2 inches.
Thank you, I found the rebound spring, so I'll be cracking on soon, all things being well. I've got some brazing to do (when I buy or borrow the equipment) on the rear fork, then painting or coating. Also, the 4-speed hub needs a service & internal clean/lube so I've got plenty to keep me busy.
Hi and thanks very much for this post.!!! I’m trying to do the same thing on a 1969 Moulton minx. I’ve got a couple of questions if you have a minute sometime.!! I’m in the same boat regarding the hidden screw inside the tube… I think I can see the screw, but I can’t actually see the slots in the head of the screw for rusty crud… I suppose it’s a posidrive but I wonder if you have any suggestions for something that might dissolve the rust enough for me to at least see the slots of the screw head??? Then I’m hoping a posidrive 2 screwdriver will be the correct one for the job. Thanks for any suggestions or advice… I know the post is a couple of years old,,, but maybe you will see this..??!! All the best. Sean.
@seangalvin9850 there's a product called Rustoleum (I think) that's phosphoric acid based. That should shift the decades of rusty oily crud. Penetrative oil - don't use WD40 as that's not what it was designed for; a mix of diesel and acetone makes a good penetrant apparently, but I have been using "Deep Creep" from Seafoam. It's worked for me so far. Good luck.
Thanks, I might need it. It's actually quite ingenious for an early 60s cycle suspension design, keeping it lightweight, practical and simple in use. Maintenance also wasn't really needed for a long time, which is unfortunate for anyone dismantling something that hasn't been apart for 50+ years.
I'm really enjoying this series! Well done and keep it up. It's great to see a challenging restoration like this. If you had pulled the forks apart when you first took out the rebound screw you could probably have knocked the main spring out from the top with a rod or a wooden dowel. Also, I'm absolutely sure that the rebound spring will still be in the top of the forks. It's common for people to not see a stuck rebound spring. If it wasn't there, the forks would be able to drop out of the splined bearing by about 2 inches.
Thank you, I found the rebound spring, so I'll be cracking on soon, all things being well. I've got some brazing to do (when I buy or borrow the equipment) on the rear fork, then painting or coating. Also, the 4-speed hub needs a service & internal clean/lube so I've got plenty to keep me busy.
Admire your persistence well done they are complicated things aren’t they.
Thanks. Just a bit awkward to dismantle when rusted solid inside. I'll try to do a straightforward explanation of how they work when I rebuild them
Hi and thanks very much for this post.!!! I’m trying to do the same thing on a 1969 Moulton minx. I’ve got a couple of questions if you have a minute sometime.!! I’m in the same boat regarding the hidden screw inside the tube… I think I can see the screw, but I can’t actually see the slots in the head of the screw for rusty crud… I suppose it’s a posidrive but I wonder if you have any suggestions for something that might dissolve the rust enough for me to at least see the slots of the screw head??? Then I’m hoping a posidrive 2 screwdriver will be the correct one for the job. Thanks for any suggestions or advice… I know the post is a couple of years old,,, but maybe you will see this..??!! All the best. Sean.
@seangalvin9850 there's a product called Rustoleum (I think) that's phosphoric acid based. That should shift the decades of rusty oily crud. Penetrative oil - don't use WD40 as that's not what it was designed for; a mix of diesel and acetone makes a good penetrant apparently, but I have been using "Deep Creep" from Seafoam. It's worked for me so far. Good luck.
Fantastic.!!!! Thanks very much for that. And thanks again for sharing the clip…. So helpful.👍
This seems quite a complicated set up for the simple task of dampening MTB forks seem more straightforward, best of luck , cheers
Thanks, I might need it. It's actually quite ingenious for an early 60s cycle suspension design, keeping it lightweight, practical and simple in use. Maintenance also wasn't really needed for a long time, which is unfortunate for anyone dismantling something that hasn't been apart for 50+ years.