This video will be part of a series depicting my FreeMo build Journey - you can also follow my Freemo journey on my Facebook Group: facebook.com/groups/theescarpment For behind the scenes content!
A very informative video; and timely too ! I am working on similar modules, but to N-Rail standards. I painted each piece before assembling them into the module -- easier for me to paint them unassembled -- so I will only need to do touch-ups. I am using pocket-hole screws so there will be no holes to fill and paint over. Also, anything that I can do with the framing members prior to assembly, I am doing -- including installation of Digitrax control panels; brackets to hold my points control panels; barrier terminal blocks for wiring connections; etc. Manipulating single pieces is far simpler than trying to deal with a fully assembled module. Your decision to inset the points controls and the DCC system panels is brilliant. In my case, since I want to include an back-lit track diagram, my points control panel will be removable for storage within the underside of the frame for transport/storage (held in place with magnets). I do like how you built the legs. How long are they ? They look to be almost as long as the module. Since I have mobility issues (I can't reach anything at floor level), I am not entirely sure how to make the legs adjustable from the top. I could put adjustable feet at the top of the leg (rather than at the floor); but how can I reach them for adjustment when the legs are in place ? So I am kind of stuck. I am looking forward to seeing how you install the alignment pins as that is something I have yet to sort out. How will you be handling where the rails cross the joints between modules ? I have some plain printed circuit board (PCB) which I plan to glue along the edge of the module where the tracks cross, and then solder the rails to the PCB. The PCB is about the same thickness as the ties (sleepers) and I am thinking of cutting the PCB to mimic the shape and spacing of the ties. Of course, I will remove the copper plating between the rails to prevent creating a short circuit.
Hi Timothy. Thanks for watching. I like your approach to your build. I was thinking of doing those pocket holes, but due to the size and weight, I wanted to use longer screws. My point controller inserts have also been designed to house an LED. I'll be using a bi-colour LED and will show red when the rails are diverged from the mainline. I wanted to have the best of both worlds with installing its own DCC Command station. So I can either run on my own or power a few other modules in a small setting, or it can be bypassed in a larger setting etc. I believe the legs are around the 1140 mm mark. The height is due to the ARMA Freemo standards being 1200mm from ground to top of track. You have an interesting challenge to overcome concerning your legs. Access to adjust is going to be a tricky one. I will be using the DCC Concept alignment pins and will have that in another video. As for the track ends, I have bought the ready-made PCB sleepers to glue down and, like you solder the rails to them...regards
@@JasonWood_Escarpment Hello Jason. Regarding my points control panels, as I said, it will be back-lit; but green for the selected route, and red for the unselected. I will be gluing the frame together as well as using pocket screws -- the screws being used primarily to clamp the pieces while the glue sets. For alignment pins, I got some brass ones from Amazon. I have seen videos showing tricks on how to install them... but I am still not quite sure what kind of adhesive to use -- CA glue or epoxy -- I have seen both used. Being in Canada, while we "officially" are a metric country, seeing/hearing measurements in metric is a bit strange. That said, I often use metric since it is far simpler to use than trying to figure out if 5/8 is larger or smaller than 19/32. Just easier to measure to the nearest millimeter.
This video will be part of a series depicting my FreeMo build Journey - you can also follow my Freemo journey on my Facebook Group: facebook.com/groups/theescarpment For behind the scenes content!
SWEET CONSTRUCTION! Keep up the great content.
Thanks Josef, will do my best..cheers
Nice build Will definitely be using this as a guide for my own freemo builds.
Thanks for the feedback, Austin. It is great to hear it will be of assistance in your build..regards
Jason, you do museum quality work.
Thanks Ron! You calling me old? Lol..thanks for watching
@@JasonWood_Escarpment Old Guys Rule!😏
A very informative video; and timely too ! I am working on similar modules, but to N-Rail standards.
I painted each piece before assembling them into the module -- easier for me to paint them unassembled -- so I will only need to do touch-ups. I am using pocket-hole screws so there will be no holes to fill and paint over. Also, anything that I can do with the framing members prior to assembly, I am doing -- including installation of Digitrax control panels; brackets to hold my points control panels; barrier terminal blocks for wiring connections; etc. Manipulating single pieces is far simpler than trying to deal with a fully assembled module.
Your decision to inset the points controls and the DCC system panels is brilliant. In my case, since I want to include an back-lit track diagram, my points control panel will be removable for storage within the underside of the frame for transport/storage (held in place with magnets).
I do like how you built the legs. How long are they ? They look to be almost as long as the module. Since I have mobility issues (I can't reach anything at floor level), I am not entirely sure how to make the legs adjustable from the top. I could put adjustable feet at the top of the leg (rather than at the floor); but how can I reach them for adjustment when the legs are in place ? So I am kind of stuck.
I am looking forward to seeing how you install the alignment pins as that is something I have yet to sort out.
How will you be handling where the rails cross the joints between modules ? I have some plain printed circuit board (PCB) which I plan to glue along the edge of the module where the tracks cross, and then solder the rails to the PCB. The PCB is about the same thickness as the ties (sleepers) and I am thinking of cutting the PCB to mimic the shape and spacing of the ties. Of course, I will remove the copper plating between the rails to prevent creating a short circuit.
Hi Timothy. Thanks for watching. I like your approach to your build. I was thinking of doing those pocket holes, but due to the size and weight, I wanted to use longer screws.
My point controller inserts have also been designed to house an LED. I'll be using a bi-colour LED and will show red when the rails are diverged from the mainline.
I wanted to have the best of both worlds with installing its own DCC Command station. So I can either run on my own or power a few other modules in a small setting, or it can be bypassed in a larger setting etc.
I believe the legs are around the 1140 mm mark. The height is due to the ARMA Freemo standards being 1200mm from ground to top of track. You have an interesting challenge to overcome concerning your legs. Access to adjust is going to be a tricky one.
I will be using the DCC Concept alignment pins and will have that in another video. As for the track ends, I have bought the ready-made PCB sleepers to glue down and, like you solder the rails to them...regards
@@JasonWood_Escarpment Hello Jason. Regarding my points control panels, as I said, it will be back-lit; but green for the selected route, and red for the unselected. I will be gluing the frame together as well as using pocket screws -- the screws being used primarily to clamp the pieces while the glue sets. For alignment pins, I got some brass ones from Amazon. I have seen videos showing tricks on how to install them... but I am still not quite sure what kind of adhesive to use -- CA glue or epoxy -- I have seen both used. Being in Canada, while we "officially" are a metric country, seeing/hearing measurements in metric is a bit strange. That said, I often use metric since it is far simpler to use than trying to figure out if 5/8 is larger or smaller than 19/32. Just easier to measure to the nearest millimeter.
THANK YOU SHARE GREAT DETAIL VIDEO AS GREAT JOY WATCHING
Thanks for watching!
Awesome Jason!!! Just awesome!! Cheers Onno.
Thanks Onno!!
Great work.
Are the baseboard tops at the same height as the main layout so you can use it as a spur?
Bob
Unfortunately, they are not Bob. Thanks for watching..cheers!
Jason these are fantastic but you will make those hooking up to yours look like amateurs.
Thanks, well I don't know about that. Hopefully, it won't stop people from wanting to build these..cheers