From a multi Buell owner with a 2008 1125 Signature.... By Far the best ever clutch rework video. Have thought seriously about getting an 1190 but this 1125R is so near perfect as a street and track bike. Try this guy's videos on the test of an 1190RS then his video on the 1125R. The 1125R just seems perfect (had a 4th gear problem for a few laps but got it worked out). Great work and thanks. These are only the titles of German VIDEOS. Buell EBR 1190RS special addition, testride racetrack AND Most racetrack Buell 1125R - catch them with torque
Any tips for bleeding? I’ve gone through half a quart of DOT 4, I got a lot of air bubbles out initially. But now it’s still creeping forward when in gear with the clutch pulled in, clutch obviously isn’t completely disengaging.
@@noahgallagher9728 I ended up pumping the heck out of the clutch lever a ton! I knew it was going to be a pain so that’s why I time lapsed it. Go ahead and start the bike in neutral and try to put it into gear. As long as you have a relatively firm clutch lever it should be fine. It won’t go into gear if the clutch is still engaged.
Thank you Sir! I recently purchased a 2017 1190RX and it is like nothing I have ever ridden. I had a 2010 Fireblade and sold it for my dream bike (EBR 1190RX) and although the CBR 1000RR was a great bike I definitely do not regret my decision!
This bike is nuts in my opinion. The low end torque is actually kinda scary in my opinion. It pulls just as hard at 2000 rpms as it does at 10000 rpms. It’s so much fun.
Excellent video....just curious if the spring is re used with the oberon? I'm having a heck of a time bleeding the system so I thought I may have to install it? So excited to receive it in the mail yesterday and nothing working out for me.
The bleeding process took a while. In the end, I had to pump the clutch lever very fast, and I was able to build up pressure and then I would go through the bleeding process of opening the bleeder. Air doesn’t want to go down, it wants to go up, so the faster you pump the clutch, the more fluid you can get down to the slave cylinder. It was a bit of a process, it took me about 25 minutes.
This same component failed on my first 2008 1125R @ approximately 15,000 miles and now on my 2nd 2008 1125R at 13,000 miles. Thanks for the video. What vendor do you recommend for the replacement valve body?
It’s the cheapest I’ve found. I see it’s on eBay but it’s $190. It’s only $145 at St Paul. The guy in the Buell department is really knowledgeable also. Thank you and I’m glad it helped you out 😀.
@@pilgrimsgaragelooks like I have fitment issues on the older 2008 clutch cover revision😢. I'll give their Buell tech guy a call. Really not looking to spend another 350$ on updated clutch cover just to fit this updated slave cylinder. We shall see.
@@pilgrimsgarage Scratch that- everything fits fine. I thought i needed to use the old cylinder. Now I realize the blue revision piece actually replaces 2 old stock pieces. On to bleeding it down tomorrow. Where do you get that sweet billet clutch master cylinder cover?
It’s actually not mine, it’s a friends. My honest opinion of it…it’s terrifying. That thing has so much torque that it doesn’t matter what rpm you’re at it just wants to take off.
@@pilgrimsgarage I pulled the cover off without removing the nut since I couldn’t get it off then just spun it off once I had all the threads exposed. I’d also recommend against removing the banjo bolt since it strips the threads super easily when you try to put it back in (ask me how I know). Luckily you can helicoil it
Oh boy, that sounds like a tense few minutes. I’m glad you got it done. That cast aluminum sure doesn’t have the strength that steel does. I’ve never stripped out a banjo bolt but I could definitely see that happening on those. Nice job.
This was very helpful. I have the same bike in red. I appreciated the quality of your video. Everything was explained in great detail.
You’re welcome. I’m glad to help when I can.
Where did you order the new slave cylinder?
@@justincaddell6763 it’s in the description. It’s from St Paul Harley Davidson. There should be a link.
From a multi Buell owner with a 2008 1125 Signature.... By Far the best ever clutch rework video. Have thought seriously about getting an 1190 but this 1125R is so near perfect as a street and track bike. Try this guy's videos on the test of an 1190RS then his video on the 1125R. The 1125R just seems perfect (had a 4th gear problem for a few laps but got it worked out). Great work and thanks. These are only the titles of German VIDEOS. Buell EBR 1190RS special addition, testride racetrack AND Most racetrack Buell 1125R - catch them with torque
Thank you, liked the smart fix for just getting the clutch cover off, leaving the oil in the gearbox!
Yeah that worked out well. No reason to make a mess if possible. I hope it helps you out and thank you for the compliment.
Found the other video on UA-cam and it wasn’t helpful. Doing the job right now and disassembly was a breeze after watching this.
@@noahgallagher9728 thank you.
Any tips for bleeding? I’ve gone through half a quart of DOT 4, I got a lot of air bubbles out initially. But now it’s still creeping forward when in gear with the clutch pulled in, clutch obviously isn’t completely disengaging.
@@noahgallagher9728 I ended up pumping the heck out of the clutch lever a ton! I knew it was going to be a pain so that’s why I time lapsed it. Go ahead and start the bike in neutral and try to put it into gear. As long as you have a relatively firm clutch lever it should be fine. It won’t go into gear if the clutch is still engaged.
Thank you Sir! I recently purchased a 2017 1190RX and it is like nothing I have ever ridden. I had a 2010 Fireblade and sold it for my dream bike (EBR 1190RX) and although the CBR 1000RR was a great bike I definitely do not regret my decision!
This bike is nuts in my opinion. The low end torque is actually kinda scary in my opinion. It pulls just as hard at 2000 rpms as it does at 10000 rpms. It’s so much fun.
Exactly what i needed to fix my 09 1125r. Thanks!
You’re welcome. St Paul was the cheapest I found. The same part was $50 more on eBay
@@pilgrimsgarage yeah... I noticed that when I went looking. Expensive little part. Haha
Thank you. Really good video mate!
Thank you. It’s a really easy process to do.
Excellent video....just curious if the spring is re used with the oberon? I'm having a heck of a time bleeding the system so I thought I may have to install it? So excited to receive it in the mail yesterday and nothing working out for me.
The bleeding process took a while. In the end, I had to pump the clutch lever very fast, and I was able to build up pressure and then I would go through the bleeding process of opening the bleeder. Air doesn’t want to go down, it wants to go up, so the faster you pump the clutch, the more fluid you can get down to the slave cylinder. It was a bit of a process, it took me about 25 minutes.
Ese cilindro que pusiste es de la marca Oberol ??
Yep this vid is gonna help me out alot thanx 👊
You’re welcome. It’s pretty easy to do. It can take a while to bleed it out but it’s simple
What spray were you using to clean up the grime in it? Brake cleaner?
@@lukejohnson3612 yes, just simple brake cleaner. It works fine.
Thanks for the video
You’re welcome. It’s super easy to do.
This same component failed on my first 2008 1125R @ approximately 15,000 miles and now on my 2nd 2008 1125R at 13,000 miles. Thanks for the video. What vendor do you recommend for the replacement valve body?
Just got the link in description. Thanks again!
It’s the cheapest I’ve found. I see it’s on eBay but it’s $190. It’s only $145 at St Paul. The guy in the Buell department is really knowledgeable also. Thank you and I’m glad it helped you out 😀.
@@pilgrimsgaragelooks like I have fitment issues on the older 2008 clutch cover revision😢. I'll give their Buell tech guy a call. Really not looking to spend another 350$ on updated clutch cover just to fit this updated slave cylinder. We shall see.
@@kottke25 keep me informed, I’d like to know how it plays out.
@@pilgrimsgarage Scratch that- everything fits fine. I thought i needed to use the old cylinder. Now I realize the blue revision piece actually replaces 2 old stock pieces. On to bleeding it down tomorrow.
Where do you get that sweet billet clutch master cylinder cover?
How do you like the 1125cr? I’m thinking about selling my 09 1125r for the CR.
It’s actually not mine, it’s a friends. My honest opinion of it…it’s terrifying. That thing has so much torque that it doesn’t matter what rpm you’re at it just wants to take off.
I’m having an issue where the bolt is spinning with the housing and loosening the latter instead of spinning freely. Any suggestions?
I’m sorry for the late reply. Did you get it figured out?
@@pilgrimsgarage Yes
What were you able to do? Many on here scroll through the comments for advice and it’s really helpful to those with the same problem.
@@pilgrimsgarage I pulled the cover off without removing the nut since I couldn’t get it off then just spun it off once I had all the threads exposed. I’d also recommend against removing the banjo bolt since it strips the threads super easily when you try to put it back in (ask me how I know). Luckily you can helicoil it
Oh boy, that sounds like a tense few minutes. I’m glad you got it done. That cast aluminum sure doesn’t have the strength that steel does. I’ve never stripped out a banjo bolt but I could definitely see that happening on those. Nice job.