The CM1000A is a rebadged Mastech MS2115A, although the input protection is slightly different on the Ames version. The chip on which it's based is capable of measuring temperature, which would have been handy, so I'm surprised they didn't bring that capability out. It seems to be an entirely decent if rather large clamp meter. I do wish the backlight stayed on continuously (although if you're not afraid to venture inside, this can be reprogrammed).
Thanks you just reminded me to change mY batteries out😂👍🏻 I don't know if you ever saw the analog meters, they worked with no category markings.(amprobe) CAT IV ! 🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🍿🏌🏻♀️ Stay safe. Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses.
@@HVACGUY Us older guys grew up using analog cuz that's all there was unless you maybe worked in a lab using bench equipment. Simpson had some digital but they didn't stay with it for some reason.
From my understanding the reason you remove the leads when using the amp clamp is because the ends of the leads can become energized and there is the potential for electrical shock.
The problem is for HVAC purposes the specs show a maximum operating temp of 82 degrees. That’s not acceptable obviously. They should not advertise this for HVAC unless it’s an indoor unit.
So glad I have UA-cam premium no ads
big boys play with big toys 💯
1st time seeing an ad on your channel. Good job. 👍🏼
I was reading my meter manual and the wire has to be as close to the lines of the claw as possible for better accuracy. I never knew that.
Yes, that’s why the Lin’s are there.
The CM1000A is a rebadged Mastech MS2115A, although the input protection is slightly different on the Ames version. The chip on which it's based is capable of measuring temperature, which would have been handy, so I'm surprised they didn't bring that capability out.
It seems to be an entirely decent if rather large clamp meter. I do wish the backlight stayed on continuously (although if you're not afraid to venture inside, this can be reprogrammed).
so between the two, which one would you choose?
Thanks you just reminded me to change mY batteries out😂👍🏻
I don't know if you ever saw the analog meters, they worked with no category markings.(amprobe)
CAT IV !
🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🍿🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses.
Yes I grew up using an analog meter
@@HVACGUY Us older guys grew up using analog cuz that's all there was unless you maybe worked in a lab using bench equipment. Simpson had some digital but they didn't stay with it for some reason.
The manual for the 1000A says to remove leads before using the amp clamp. Not sure if that was the issue on not reading Hz, etc?
From my understanding the reason you remove the leads when using the amp clamp is because the ends of the leads can become energized and there is the potential for electrical shock.
Thanks for the unboxing and unbiase review
Great info. Good video
That Ames looks identical to my Supco redfish clamp meter
I think the direction of the current has to match the arrows on the ames clamps
I returned a Fluke 116 to an ebay seller. Meter is beautiful, but the Fluke clamp accessory does not read accurately
The major put off for me with the Fluke 116 and 117 was if your not eye level with the screen the numbers fade really bad
I'm not sure if it's my phone or is your camera losing focus?
👍
Those Ames meters look alot like the Redfish meters
The problem is for HVAC purposes the specs show a maximum operating temp of 82 degrees. That’s not acceptable obviously. They should not advertise this for HVAC unless it’s an indoor unit.
You got a bad habit of changing the function while on a live conductor.
I too didnt know you were not supposed to do this. TY for the info.
Mastech electronics
Ok
Paint ur house